Tag Archives: Pinot Noir

Home is where the heart (and wine) is! Merry Edwards and Friends help us find meaningful moments and connections amidst an angst-ridden year.

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We’ve finally landed in a new place – a new, physical space and a new state of being. And I can finally breathe a sigh of relief. It has been an incredibly challenging time for me over the past several years as I have struggled with anxiety, financial instability, fear, overwhelm, aging and heartbreak.

Much of this can be attributed to the real estate roller coaster on which my husband and I have been on. More specifically, due to financial constraints, in mid-2023, we made the difficult decision to put our home on the market and move to a new neighborhood with the aim of reducing our monthly living expenses. It was an easily conceived plan, yet not so easily implemented.

In fact, what started as a simple idea became a complicated journey that lasted for two and half years and added a lot of stress and strife to our already hectic lives. As a result, we were forced to deal with much uncertainty, a loss of autonomy and a heightened and sustained state of fight/flight/freeze/fawn.

Along the way, we found ourselves half-packed for a period of six months, as we waited for all of the various elements to successfully conclude with the sale of our apartment. Our next leg consisted of subletting a place in a fifth-floor walk up in midtown Manhattan for three months, carrying our medically-compromised dog up and down the stairs at least three times a day. While we were truly grateful to have a safe place to land for that time period, it was definitely not fun.

Thankfully, we are finally on the other side of this ordeal and are trying to level-set our lives once again as we settle into our new home and new normal.

However, all of this upheaval definitely stirred up a lot of feelings, causing us to ask the question: What is a home, anyway? Is it bricks and mortar? Is it your mailing address? Is it simply the place where you lay your head each night?

For twelve years, we had lived in an apartment we had dubbed ZenSKape. With its Zen-like decor – a shoji screen room divider, a waterfall wall feature and art from our trip to Japan – it had been our sanctuary during that time. But, living day-to-day, surrounded by a perimeter of boxes, our home shifted into someplace we no longer felt calm. Then, the relocation to someone else’s residence, added to our sense of unease and a lack of belonging.

In response to this nervous system dysregulation, I found myself reaching out to friends with greater frequency, trying to find that calm and connection. And, many of these meet ups centered around wine, lending a festive and familiar air to our visits. Wine was a constant, keeping us tethered to community and reminding us to find moments of pleasure, peace and happiness, even on some of the hardest days. And, ultimately, finding the joy of making it to the end of this journey!

TASTING NOTES
Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00
May 2025 found me in the moments before the chaos. We were in contract on both the sale of our apartment and the purchase of a new one, anticipating a positive outcome to the lengthy process. In that spirit of enthusiasm, I met up with my friend Ron at his apartment, with a bottle of Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2023 in hand. We opened up the bottle, poured the wine and conversation flowed. Bright acidity, medium plus body, slight herbs, citrus and tropical fruit, culminating in long length and pairing beautifully with Thai cuisine.

Merry Edwards Meredith Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00
Domaine Anderson Pinot Noir 2021, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $55.00
A few weeks later, we admittedly started to feel nostalgic as the end date of living at ZenSKape loomed large. We made linguini with clam sauce for dinner at home and reached for the Merry Edwards Meredith Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2023. With tropical fruit and citrus aromas, it was more reserved on the palate, with tart citrus, minerality and long length. In a similar bid for holding on to precious moments, we enjoyed a picnic in Fort Tryon Park with our neighbors, preparing Tuna Nicoise and pairing it with the Domaine Anderson Pinot Noir 2021.


Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022, Sonoma Coast (CA), USA, $50.00
In further anticipation of our impending move to Riverdale, I met up with my dear friend Aleksandra in her home in Riverdale in June, bearing a bottle of Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. The visit was lovely as was the wine, which offered up bright acidity, medium body, luscious red fruit, slight herbal undertones and long length.

Merry Edwards 25th Anniversary Pinot Noir 2022, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $120.00
Yet, by now, the fatigue of uncertainty had started to weigh on our minds. We had expected to be closing on both places by the end of June, but midway through the month, nothing had changed. Then, only a few days later, we learned that our application to the board in our proposed new building was denied. In the wake of that distressing news, we tried to find a bright spot by enjoying the 2022 25th Anniversary Pinot Noir, which displayed notes of raspberry and dark cherries on the nose. The dry palate presented lively acidity, medium-plus body, with hints of cocoa and spice, along with a very long length. Not long after this delicious diversion, we finished packing up all of our wines, limiting our home consumption for some time.

Bon Vivant Sparkling Rosé NV, California, USA, $20.00
Finally, in early October, the sale of our apartment was complete and we relocated to the midtown sublet noted above. In an effort to make the sublet our own, we found ways to spend time together and with friends. On one occasion, my friend Laura stopped by on a Friday evening, during which we enjoyed the Bon Vivant Sparkling Rosé with charcuterie, cheese and olives before heading to City Center for a mesmerizing dance production of Turn It Out with Tiler Peck & Friends. With a beautiful pale salmon hue, the effervescence danced on our tongues, with flavors of citrus, apple skin and toast.

Bon Vivant Sparkling NV, California, USA, $20.00
Not wanting him to feel left out, I opened up the rose’s Brut sparkler equivalent the following week for our date night in the sublet with Thai takeout. Both this wine and the rose were really wonderful examples of Traditional Method sparkling wines available at a reasonable price point. The Brut had an elegant mousse, with aromas of toast, green apple, citrus and long length.

Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Chardonnay 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $70.00
By now it was mid-November and Thanksgiving was around the corner. As it had been awhile since I had seen my friend Ron, we made our usual plans to meet up at his place over a bottle or two. I knew he would appreciate this single vineyard Chard, with its complex aromas of lemon, citrus, vanilla and toffee. The excellent, full bodied white had bright acidity and very long length; it did not disappoint.


Scharffenberger Cellars Blanc de Noirs 2019, Mendocino County (CA), USA, $40.00
Domaine Anderson Estate Pinot Noir 2022, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $55.00
Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $77.00
For the past five years, we had hosted Friendsgiving in our apartment, which was an important and meaningful celebration for us. But, being in temporary housing meant that such a gathering was impossible. Gratefully, our dear friends who had been welcome guests at our Friendsgiving table took up the mantle to host and invited us to join them and others. We arrived ready to relish a sumptuous meal, surrounded by chosen family and fabulous food, with a Trader Joe’s pumpkin pie and three bottles of wine. We kicked off the festivities with the Scharffenberger Blanc de Noirs 2019, with its notes of toast and lemon, joined by a hint of almond in the finish. As the meal progressed, we opened up two Pinot Noirs, which are a great accompaniment at the Thanksgiving table, as I have shared previously. The Domaine Anderson Estate Pinot Noir 2022 provided an array of dried herbs, spice, berries and fresh red fruits, along with good acidity, medium body and long length. In contrast, the Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2023 was less fruit forward and much moodier with smoke, fresh herbal notes, and wet leaves,, but was still bright on the palate with medium-plus body and very long length.


Scharffenberger Sparkling Rosé NV, Mendocino County (CA), USA, $30.00
On the heels of this holiday high, we were grateful to receive good news – our interview with the board at our new apartment co-op had been scheduled for early December. This boded well since it is rare that you are invited to interview if you won’t be accepted soon after. Fingers crossed, we went into the interview cautiously optimistic. Our hard work in putting together our board package was richly rewarded with the announcement that we had, indeed, been accepted. For certain, this called for a bubbly celebration and the Scharffenberger Sparkling Rosé was a perfect option. We slowly savored the mix of red cherries and yeasty notes; admired the palate’s lovely mousse, good acidity and long length; and exhaled a big sigh of relief.  We finally had a new home!

Roederer Estate Sparkling Brut MV, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $32.00
Roederer Estate Sparkling Rose MV, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $39.00
We had the good fortune to be able to move into our apartment in time for the December holidays and, consequently, kept the celebration going. Christmas Day found us at home, happy to be able to continue our Christmas tradition of a Jewish Christmas (Chinese food and movies) in our new place. We merrily toasted the season with Roederer Estate’s Sparkling Rose, which offered up fresh notes of strawberry, apple peel and yeast, along with bright acidity and long length. The Sparkling Brut was wonderful a few days later as we unpacked our lives and got ready for the new year.


Domaine Anderson Estate Chardonnay 2022, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $40.00
Merry Edwards Georgeanne Pinot Noir 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $72.00
For the MLK Holiday weekend, we hunkered down with the snow and settled into our annual connection weekend tradition. Among our activities, we enjoyed some nice dinners together and opened up two wines over the course of the weekend. The Chardonnay displayed a balanced use of oak, with citrus and tropical fruit, medium-plus body and medium acidity. We especially loved the Georganne Pinot Noir 2023, with its range of aromas and flavors from wet leaves and coffee to cherries and cocoa, along with bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Domaine Anderson Pinoli Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021, Anderson Valley, (CA), USA, $70.00
Merry Edwards Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2023, Anderson Valley, (CA), USA, $55.00
At this point in our tenure, we were ready to welcome guests to our home, which we had christened, MaisonOtto. First to visit were Hillarie and Tom, from our previous building, as well as my friend Helene. They all had the good fortune to enjoy Domaine Anderson Pinoli Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 with its depth of bright red fruit, blueberry, and spices. The palate provided good acidity, medium body and very long length. A week or so later, Keith and Linda stopped by before we headed out to dinner at the new Mediterranean restaurant, Sawa, around the corner. We opened up the Merry Edwards Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2023, which displayed aromas of cocoa, blueberry and blackberry, slight herbs and earth, which gave way to bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Roederer Estate Clark Road Vineyard 2021, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $55.00
Merry Edwards Coopersmith Pinot Noir 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $75.00
Finally, by mid-February, we were mostly settled and were ready to host our first dinner party, which took the form of a February Baby Birthday Dinner – celebrating two of my best friends whose birthdays are in February. The menu included Carrot and Ginger Soup, Beef Tagine with Apricots and Prunes and a Gluten-Free Chocolate Gingerbread Cake. Admittedly, I was too busy hosting to take good tasting notes, but both wines were truly well received and added greatly to the celebratory nature of the birthday dinner. It had been an arduous journey, but we had definitely arrived on the other side. Home Sweet Home!

Making Merry Memories with Merry Edwards wines

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I’ve been in a different phase of my life right now, particularly marked by a shift toward drinking much less frequently and with much more intention. In this regard, I kicked off 2024 with what I referred to as “not quite a dry month, but definitely less of the hurricane that was December 2023”. As I have cut back my consumption, I have also sought out higher end wines that bring me much pleasure and savor them all the more as I am being more present and mindful of what’s in my glass.

I am also dealing with a breakup that has hit me really hard. I know that I will survive and come out the other side of this much stronger, but it has been challenging, especially since my last breakup was so long ago that I had forgotten how much it hurts. Moreover, while my consumption of Merry Edwards wines was never solely connected to my ex, we did enjoy a number of bottles together and the Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc was one of his favorites well before he met me, so drinking these wines is somewhat of a reminder of what was and will no longer be. A bittersweet note for sure, but, thankfully, not sufficient to keep me from enjoying them.

With these two influences on my drinking habits, I have been seeking out different ways to indulge in wine than I had done so previously. What this has meant has been a shift away from opening up a bottle of wine just to have a glass (although there is certainly nothing wrong with that) and more frequently, choosing, instead, to share it with dear friends or at least make it the centerpiece of a meal. And, in doing so, it has been a joy to open up and share the beauty and  magic of Merry Edwards wines over the course of several months.

The world is also shifting, with both physical and metaphorical upheaval. Is it any wonder we are besieged by earthquakes and eclipses? In early April, we turned our attention skyward as the sun and moon chased each other across the celestial sky. While many were blasé about the event, others flocked to places near and far in search of totality. What is totality? It is “the whole of something” – a state of completeness. To a certain extent, we are all in search of that, whether we look upwards or inward.

Our friends at Merry Edwards were equally enamored with the eclipse, which coincided with the release of their Cuvée Eclipse Sparkling Wine. Not just labeled with this astronomical event, the grapes for this wine were harvested on August 21, 2017, the date of the last total solar eclipse visible from North America. Sourced from the Richaven Pinot Noir Vineyard at Merry’s home, this wine was aged for six years on the lees, and launched into the world just in time to enjoy with the most recent one.

I admittedly forgot about opening this wine to celebrate the eclipse (see aforementioned break up), but was thrilled to spread the sparkle with my dear friend, Gisela, when she joined me for dinner one night. It was absolutely stunning both visually and on the palate, with a lovely salmon color, tiny bead, complex aromas of cherry, citrus, yeastiness and nuttiness, all of which persist on the palate, with a creamy mousse and extremely long length.

For my husband’s birthday, we opened up the 2022 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc, always a family favorite and a beautiful example of this herbal grape variety. Having undergone barrel fermentation and lees-stirring, the wine has nice weight to it on the palate. More specifically, the wine offered up bright acidity, aromas and flavors of citrus and tropical fruit, floral notes and a touch of herbaceous character, culminating with long length.

The Olivet Lane Chardonnay 2021 was a welcome way to celebrate the end of a stressful work week and usher in a quiet weekend. As one of the oldest existing vineyards in the Russian River Valley appellation, this vineyard is considered to be a heritage property and has long been known as a producer of exceptional Chardonnay. Redolent of nuts, butterscotch, minerality and vibrant citrus aromas and flavors, this full-bodied wine offers up medium-to-high acidity and very long length.

Earlier on in the year, a cold, Sunday night in January found me enjoying the Merry Edwards Pinot Noir 2021, which displayed tart cherry, coffee and violet aromas, all of which persisted on the palate. With good acidity, medium body and long length, it was a wonderful accompaniment to my home cooked dinner.

More recently, we hosted an impromptu dinner party with our neighbors, Temple and Derek. What was supposed to be girls’ night out for drinks in the neighborhood, was amended to drinks in our apartment, thanks to very wet weather. When Temple and I realized that both of our spouses were also home, we eagerly engaged them in our plans, dashed back and forth between the apartments to gather the makings of our feast, and broke out the Meredith Estate Pinot Noir 2021, which was welcomed by all in attendance. While the Meredith Estate vineyard has always been farmed sustainably, it is now being farmed organically. It offered up deep plum, forest floor, floral, fresh berry and cherry aromas and flavors with medium body, bright acidity and very long length.

And, just a few days ago, a date night at home was the perfect reason to open up the Richaven Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021. This is Merry Edwards’ newest offering, sourced from the eponymous vineyard “located on Merry Edwards’ personal home ranch”. It was a true delight with meaty, dark cherry, plum and cocoa notes; firm, dusty tannins; medium acidity; full body; and very long length.

While I am still finding my footing in this post-break up world, I am surrounding myself more often with friends and family. It has certainly not been a total eclipse of my heart, as it is still open to love and pleasures of the world, especially those of the vinous variety. May you find your own footing in this weird world and may you always have something delicious in your glass. Salut!

LIST of WINES TASTED

  • Cuvée Eclipse Sparkling Wine 2017, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $100.00
  • Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $48.00
  • Olivet Lane Chardonnay 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00
  • Pinot Noir 2021, Sonoma Coast (CA), USA, $60.00
  • Meredith Estate Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $90.00
  • Richaven Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00

The More the Merrier with Merry Edwards Wines

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Each year, I have the good fortune to hear from the PR person who represents Merry Edwards Winery offering me the opportunity to taste through the current selection of releases. And, every year, I gratefully accept and yet somehow take months to drink through the wines. I am a diligent and dependable person who meets deadlines at the office and yet these bottles linger in my wine cellar for months. Case in point, I received this latest set of wines in late May and yet here it is mid-September and I have only just finished tasting the last of the wines this week. Why?

Why indeed? I gave this quite some thought as the item to taste (and then write) about these wines languished on my “to do” list month after month.

Well, for one thing, I generally prefer to taste these wines alongside a lovely meal, share them with friends and family or both. These are special wines that I truly enjoy drinking with good company, eager to give others the opportunity to taste them as well. In this regard, I sometimes wait for the “perfect” dinner or the “special” occasion rather than just opening them up on a random Tuesday with leftovers. And, while there is nothing wrong with this in theory, in practice it means that lots of time lapses in between tastings.

Recognizing this propensity in myself, I chose to adopt a different philosophy over the past two weeks. We are likely all familiar with the phrase “Life’s too short to drink bad wine,” but it is true in that life is too short… period. End of sentence. We should celebrate the time we have and enjoy it to the best of our abilities. For some (myself included), the price point on these wines means that you can only indulge in them occasionally, but really, while these are, indeed, special wines, they don’t require a special occasion or the perfect moment to drink them. Thus, in accordance with this new approach, I changed tactics and drank the last three bottles in close proximity to each other. I was now done with tasting and could move on to writing. 

In this regard, I often write about the climate and soil of the vineyards where the grapes for these wines are grown (see here for previous stories), which is relevant given that five of the wines below are of the same grape variety and it is their distinct environment that sets them apart from one another and accounts for many of the differences among them. But, at the end of the day, it is what the wine tastes like in your glass that has the most meaning, irrespective of microclimates and soil types.

Thus, what is perhaps more important to you, the reader, is identifying the style of the resulting wine and equally critical, the set and setting in which one drinks it. We all have preferences for different styles of wine, all of which are valid. Taking time to savor the aromas and flavors, seeing how the wine develops in the glass over the course of one’s meal and simply being in a great frame of mind — whether alone or joined by others — all contribute to our enjoyment, much more so than the formality of the meal or day of the week.

So, here are my tasting notes for each of these wines, along with the set and setting (to the best of my recollection as I wasn’t planning on including that information). I hope you will find a style that appeals to your palate and seek it out to sip and savor as we celebrate this thing called life!

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc
2021, Sonoma County (CA), USA, $48.00
Complex aromas of herbs, smoke, citrus/tangerine greet the nose and persist on the palate with vibrant acidity, medium+ body and long length. I opened up this bottle with dinner featuring tuna steaks on Monday, July 3 (the eve of the July 4th holiday) to celebrate the deep bonds of friendship that my husband and I share with our dear friend Gisela, all of whom greatly appreciated this wonderful wine.

Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $75.00
Redolent of ripe, dark cherries, herbs, cocoa and a hint of leather, this rich and robust wine was dry on the palate with bright acidity, medium+ body and very long length. My friend Rob and I spent the weekend of June 30-July 2 at the Riverwind Inn B&B in Deep River, CT and opened up this bottle to toast our weekend away, sitting on balcony and taking in the view of the property’s gardens.

Merry Edwards Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $65.00
Very herbal in character, this wine offers up plum and cherries, with notes of both fresh and dried herbs. The dry palate had medium acidity, medium+ body, noticeable yet ripe tannins and long length. While not deliberately opened up in honor of Bastille Day, I did enjoy this wine with dinner with my husband on Friday, July 14. I don’t recall what we ate, but we definitely loved the wine!

Merry Edwards Georganne Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $70.00
This wine was more fruit driven than the others, but was still quite elegant, with dark cherry aromas and flavors and a slight earthy character. The palate displayed bright acidity, medium+ body and dusty tannins, culminating in long length. I shared this wine on Saturday, September 9 with my aforementioned friend, Rob, at his home in Stamford, CT where we collaborated on creating a delicious lentil and sweet potato dish from the New York Times (find the recipe online here). NB: Dish is pictured above.

Merry Edwards Coopersmith Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $70.00
This wine displayed floral aromas along with red and black cherries and berries on the nose and palate. It had good acidity, with medium body and long length. As a quiet moment before the hustle and bustle of the week ahead, my husband and I shared this bottle of wine over dinner (pasta with pesto sauce and parmesan cheese) on Sunday, September 10.

Merry Edwards Dach Pinot Noir 2021, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $75.00
The most structured of the bunch, this wine provided a variety of aromas and flavors including herbs, dark red fruit and earth, with an herbal undercurrent. It had firm tannins, full body and long length on the dry, vibrant palate. While my husband was away for the weekend,
on Friday, September 15, I celebrated the end of my work week with dinner on my own, which consisted of yummy pork chops wrapped in bacon and rosemary and this beautiful wine. Then I continued to enjoy the wine as I binge-watched Glow Up on Netflix.

It’s Duck Season: Drinking the Natural Path Wines from Duck Pond Cellars

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It’s the duck days of summer. It’s been super hot and then…not! But, if you are a lucky duck, you’ve got Duck Pond Cellars’ wines in your glass. In particular, their Natural Path Production wines perfectly hit the spot whether it’s 70F or 90F.

The Dundee, Oregon-based winery was founded in 1993 and has always been committed to sustainability. Its grapes are organically farmed and hand-harvested, with continued attention to detail once they reach the winery. More recently, they have become involved in the Clean Label Project, a non-profit organization “whose mission is to bring truth and transparency to food and consumer product labeling.”

Launched under the Natural Path Production line, Duck Pond’s first wines were certified by this organization with the 2020 vintage, making them the first wines in America to receive this certification.

In adherence to the certification program, the ingredients are clearly stated on the label. Additionally, they testify to low sulfite use (<=100 PPM), vegan-only fining agents and the non-use of Glyphosate and Neonicotinoid pesticides.

Equally important to Duck Pond’s focus on natural production, is that these wines are well made and well-priced, ranging from $15-$19 per bottle (winery prices; might be higher at your local wine shop). As of now, there are four wines in the Natural Path line up: Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Rose (not tasted) and Pinot Noir.

Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Pinot Gris 2022, Willamette Valley (OR), USA, $16.00
On the nose, this wine displays notes of tangerine and smoke, which persist on the dry palate. The wine is quite luscious, with bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Chardonnay 2021, Oregon, USA, $15.00
This wine offers up melon and butter aromas and flavors, and an oak undercurrent, with medium acidity, medium plus body, and long length. It was a crowd pleaser at a recent gathering of friends.

Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Pinot Noir 2021, Oregon, USA, $19.00
Fresh aromas of cherry and raspberry greet the nose. The dry palate provides ripe black cherries, herbs, and an earthy undercurrent, with medium plus acidity, medium plus body and medium plus length. Really lovely.


Oltrepo Pavese wines, perfect pairings for pizza, Thanksgiving and just about anything else

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Located in Italy’s Lombardy region, Oltrepo Pavese gets its name from its location on the “other side” of the Po River, the longest in Italy. Home to over 220 indigenous grape varieties, this region is extremely diverse, producing wines that range from still and sparkling, to dry and sweet and everything in between. Additionally, it’s shared borders with the regions of Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna and Liguria have exerted their influence on the resulting wines as well.

As the third largest grower of Pinot Noir (lagging only behind Burgundy and Champagne), Pinot in its many guises is well represented here. Known by the Italian Pinot Nero, the grape is made into sparkling, white and red wines. Pinot Grigio is also widely planted. Interestingly, due to Lombardy’s historic ties to the Savoy kingdom, Riesling is also found in its vineyards.

The diversity is further reflected in its many different sub-denominations. For example, there are four alone just for Metodo Classico sparkling wines. Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese refers to a lightly sparkling (frizzante) red wine produced from a minimum of 85% Croatina, supplemented with up to 15% of Barbera, Ughetta, and/or Uva Rara. Finally, the unusually titled Sangue di Giuda is named for the legend that Judas came back to life to atone for his betrayal of Jesus, ultimately helping to end an epidemic in the vineyards. This sweet red can be lightly or fully sparkling and may be produced from 25-65% Barbera, 25-65% Croatina, with the remainder being Uva Rara, Ughetta and/or Pinot Nero, up to a maximum of 45%.

Thus, it was a fun and festive introduction to these wines at Sottocasa, an authentic thin-crust pizza restaurant in Harlem, which was the site for an informal wine dinner. Our meal featured an assortment of Oltrepo Pavese wines paired with a selection of salads, pizzas and people. Yet, the informal nature of the event did not mean that the wines were any less complex or of low quality. In fact, they were quite delicious and easy to pair with both the savory and sweet dishes on the crowded table.

Moreover, the diversity of vinous flavors, coupled with the hodge podge of people and food, was the perfect proving ground for Thanksgiving, which we will celebrate in the U.S. this week. While Oltrepo Pavese may be situated on the other side of the Po, this time of year in the U.S. we are metaphorically heading “Over the river and into the woods… to grandmother’s house…” to celebrate Thanksgiving with family, friends or both, with our own assortment of culinary traditions on the table.

The sparkling, white and red wines of Oltrepo Pavese should be a welcome addition to your feast throughout the holiday season and beyond with their flexible, food-friendly nature.

TASTING NOTES

The following wines were those we tasted at Sottacasa, but you can search out whatever Oltrepo Pavese are available at your local wine store.

Defilippi Gessi Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC Crocetta 2021, $25
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks

Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks
This was my preference among the Pinot Grigios, but they were all quite good.

Ca di Frara Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks

Ca Montebello Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pinot Nero Vinificato in Bianco 2021, $25
100% Pinot Nero. Vinified as a white wine, this Pinot was extremely fresh and lively, light bodied, really beautiful and super easy to drink. It was a crowd favorite at our meal.

Castello di Luzzano Sommossa Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021, $23
100% Croatina. This dry, sparkling red, was produced using the tank method, with raspberries and blackberries, and long length.

Losito & Guarini Giovannella Fugazza Bonarda Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC C’Era Una Volta NV, $20
100% Croatina, tank method.

Dino Torti Oltrepo Pavese DOC Barbera Route 66, 2019, $25
100% Barbera, aged in Fench barrique for 18 months. I didn’t take good notes, but I did enjoy this fresh, medium-bodied red.

Tenuta Travaglino Pinot Nero Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pernero 2021
100% Pinot Nero, tank fermentation, 6 months aging on the lees. A light-bodied red, with good cherry fruit, a hint of herbaceousness and lively acidity.

Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Sangue di Guida Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021
Croatina, Uva Rara, Barbera, field blend, Martinotti Method. This off dry, red sparkling wine was lovely and fresh and a good pairing with dessert.

Alto Adige and Oregon Explore What’s In the Glass

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What’s in your glass? If you answered Merlot or Chardonnay, you’re only half right. The truth is that wine is a product of grapes and place (and to a slightly lesser extent, people), so what’s in your glass also includes where the grapes were grown and how those who made the wine chose to interpret them.

When I taught consumer wine classes on a regular basis, I used to have my “Great Grape” series, which I affectionately referred to as “Same Grape, Different Neighborhood”. In each class, I guided the group through a selection of wines all produced from the same grape variety (i.e. Chardonnays or Merlots), but which had been grown in different places around the world. The intention was to familiarize them with the general characteristics of a given grape, while providing them with concrete evidence of how climate, soil and winemaking techniques ultimately impacted the finished wine.

So I was extremely excited when I received the unusual invitation to similarly compare and contrast wines from Italy’s Alto Adige with those from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. I had written about Alto Adige previously, having attended various seminars and also having visited the region, but this was a unique look for sure. The seminar, held at Manhatta Restaurant, was moderated by Laura Williamson, MS and mostly presented by Martin Foradori Hofstatter from Tenuta J. Hofstatter. Davide Ungaro from Cantina Bolzano, Remy Drabkin of Remy Wines and David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyards were also present to share about Willamette and its wines. Overall, the seminar itself was quite technical and, while interesting to the trade, the details of which are likely too mundane to share with the average wine consumer. Yet, it was a wonderful opportunity to use a unique lens to look at two fascinating and fabulous wine regions.

Ultimately, these two winegrowing regions have a lot in common, but, not surprisingly, produce different styles due to the differences underscored during the seminar such as climatic conditions (see chart below). In that vein, fans of one should definitely venture out and try the other. Moreover, they are both equally at home at the table and offer up diversity and a range of styles from which to choose. Love Pinot Grigio? Enjoy Alto Adige’s options tonight and Oregon’s tomorrow. No need to get stuck in a vinous rut.

At the end of the day, it’s all about high quality wines made by real people who are focused on understanding their land to craft the very best wines from it.

BY the NUMBERS…
Comparing & Contrasting Top Grapes by Region

Alto AdigeWillamette Valley
#Pinot Grigio^Pinot Noir
Gewurztraminer#Pinot Grigio
*Chardonnay*Chardonnay
Pinot BiancoRiesling
SciavaEtc.
^Pinot Noir
Etc.

TASTING NOTES
Seminar Wines

Cantina Tramin Unterebner Pinot Grigio 2020, Alto Adige DOC
Rich nose, minerality, tangerine, dry, yet rich, ripe fruit, medium+ body, citrus, long length, (rich and concentrated).

Remy Wines Fischerman’s Pinot Gris 2021, Yamhill-Carlton, OR
From grapes sourced from the Walker Vineyard, on ungrafted vines, with notes of smoke, higher acidity, fresh, medium body, long length (lovely and fresh).

Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco 2019 Vorberg, Alto Adige
Medium to full bodied, with medium acidity, red apple, slight citrus, and a hint of wood in the undercurrent. Long length.

Adelsheim Vineyards, Staking Claim Chardonnay 2019, Chehalem Mountains, OR
Austere and elegant, with medium body, medium+ acidity, minerality, citrus and slight green apple, barely perceptible oak, and a slight reductive note.

Castel Juval Unterortl Pinot Nero Riserva 2018, Alto Adige Val Venosta
From the most northly Pinot Noir vineyards of Alto Adige, this wine has aromas of cherries and fresh and dried herbs. Dry and fresh, with medium body, very herbal in undercurrent, earthy in the finish, with long length.

Tenuta J. Hofstatter Pinot Nero 2017, Alto Adige Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano
Sourced from older parcels planted in 1962 and 1990, notes of earth, darker cherries and a hint of wood greet the nose. Fresh, fruit driven, with a slight herbal hint in the finish. This is a lighter style wine with lighter body but still good concentration of fruit.

Adelsheim Vineyards, Breaking Ground Pinot Noir 2019, Chehalem Mountains, OR
This wine is blend of grapes grown on three different soil types in an effort to figure out how to make great wine. Of the two Adelsheim Pinots, this one is less ripe, with cherries and orange peel aromas. Dry, with medium acidity, medium body, cherry, herbs, and long length.

Adelsheim Vineyards, Quarter Mile Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018, Chehalem Mountains, OR
This wine is more ripe, with a sweeter, jammier red fruit nose. The palate offers up riper fruit of rich cherries and spice with fuller body, and long length.

The Lagrein variety is related to Pinot Noir, but not sure of total origin, grape with lots of acid and aggressive tannins.

Cantina Bolzano Lagrein Riserva 2018 Taber Alto Adige
This is a single vineyard wine, which underwent two years of aging, one of them in oak. It has an intense nose of black fruit and floral, with firm, medium++ tannins, medium+ body, and flavors of intense, concentrated candied violets and blueberry, culminating in long length.

Peter Zemmer Lagrein Riserva Furggl 2018, Alto Adige
As a Riserva wine, this wine also spent two years aging, with six months in large oak vessels and 12 months in barriques. This wine has aromas of smoke and black fruit, and is more tannic with fuller body than the Cantina Bolzano Lagrein.

Remy Wines, Lagrein 2019, Dundee Hills, OR
In addition to making wine from traditional Oregon varieties, Remy also focuses on those from Northern Italy, including Lagrein. Hers is floral, with tart cherry fruit, and oak notes, and full bodied with firm tannins.

Additional Wines Served with Lunch (more limited tasting notes)

With the First Course: Snap pea panzanella with grapefruit and pink peppercorn

  • Tenuta J. Hofstatter Barthenau Vigna S. Michele Pinot Bianco 2020 – tree and stone fruit
  • Nals Magreid Punggl Pinot Grigio 2019 – good acidity, fresh, citrus
  • St. Paul’s Winery Schliff Sauvignon Blanc 2020 – with a very herbal nose and long length
  • Elena Walch Vigna Kastelaz Gewurztraminer 2018 – rich, spice, yellow plum, long length

With the Second Course: Patrami Smoked Salmon, Chicories, Lemon Crème Fraiche

  • Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner 2021 – juicy fruit, very mineral
  • Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Kerner 2021 – stone fruit, apricot
  • Castelfeder Burgum Novum Chardonnay Riserva 2018 – elegant, well-integrated oak
  • Adelsheim Winery Ribbon Springs Vineyard Chardonnay 2018, Ribbon Ridge, OR – butter, slight, slight development, apple

With the Third Course: Roasted Chicken breast with Yukon gold potatoes, lemon thyme, grilled scallion and Calabrian chile.

  • Cantina Bolzano Santa Maddelea Schiava Moar Classico 2020 – fresh, light bodied, cranberry
  • Cantina Girlan Trattmann Pinot Nero Riserva 2017 – smoky, herbal, light body, cherry
  • Ansitz Waldgries Lagrein 2019 – easier drinking, less tannic
  • Remy Wines Jubilee Dolcetto 2019, Eola-Amity Hills, OR – black cherries, herbaceous notes and freshness

COMPARE & CONTRAST by the NUMBERS…

  Alto Adige Willamette Valley
Farmers 5,000 931
Vineyard
Area 		5,600 ha 11,080 ha
Wineries 274 736
Average area per farmer 1 ha 12 ha
% Total Prodn. <1% of Italy 3% of U.S.
Organic Viti. 8% 48%
Altitude 200-1000 m 60-335 m
Sunshine/yr 300 days/year 150 days
White Wine
Production		 64% 35%
Red Wine
Production		 36% 65%
# of Grape
Varieties 		20 37
Bottles/yr 40 million 40 million
Longitude 46′-30″ Bolzano 45′-12″ McMinville
Climate   Warm air currents + cold
winds from the mountains 		Cooler due to the influence of the
Pacific Ocean and Columbia Gorge
Geography   Small valley with lots of
microclimates 		Not a narrow valley; 50 mi wide by 125 mi long
Soils   Mostly clay, with some volcanic soils Marine, sedimentary, volcanic basalt, and loess

Building and sustaining relationships at Loveblock Wine

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Erica Crawford Loveblock Wine

“Everything is based on relationships.” ~ Erica Crawford

As Erica Crawford of Loveblock Wine stated early on in the evening, “Everything is based on relationships…” which is how a South African medical researcher ended up in New Zealand and ultimately became part of the New Zealand wine industry. In sharing her back story, Erica talked about that first, vital relationship when she met “a Kiwi bloke” at a wine fair in Cape Town, a theme that resonated throughout our time together.

After emigrating to New Zealand and marrying Kim Crawford (the aforementioned “Kiwi bloke”), Erica pursued pharmaceutical sales while her husband established his winemaking career. The two eventually started the eponymously named Kim Crawford winery, building a successful business and brand and selling it in 2003. As a condition of the sale, they had to wait several years before they could resume their life in the industry.

The following year, Erica fell in love with the view of a vineyard situated within the Awatere Valley of New Zealand’s Marlborough region, making the purchase with proceeds from the sale. She appropriately named it Loveblock, which gave name to their next venture, Loveblock Wine, which they launched once the embargo was lifted.

I first met Erica in May 2016, when she was in town to share her Loveblock wines with members of the NYC wine press (see previous post). Back in New York City in May 2022 after a lengthy hiatus, Erica once again met with wine journalists, this time at the newly opened Vinyl Steakhouse.

Over dinner, we talked about the relationship between wine and food. Perusing the menu, Erica recommended the potato croquettes, chosen for having been fried, as a perfect foil for her Pinot Gris. She also suggested that we try the shrimp cocktail, crab cakes and the crispy sushi roll. Not surprisingly, her selections were spot on and we all enjoyed the appetizers with the wine.



We next talked about the relationship between farming and the environment. Upon purchase of the Loveblock land, Erica and Kim decided to plant the vineyard utilizing organic farming practices, which they had already begun to embrace in their diet. Today, their Anchor Estate Vineyard is certified organic by BioGro New Zealand. Moreover, as grape growers and winemakers, they are deeply rooted in sustainability and have inculcated this approach into all that they do. They refer to their philosophy as the “’triple bottom line’ concept: (Profit People Place)”.

As we moved on to our main courses, we talked about music, having fun with Vinyl Steakhouse’s collection of… vinyl. Choosing records from Lou Reed, Stevie Nicks and others, we reminisced about our teenage years and the music that accompanied them.

And eventually we talked about wine. In fact, Erica has to be prompted several times to talk about the individual wines because we have become so engrossed in other conversations.

As noted, we kicked off the meal with the Pinot Gris 2020 from Marlborough. Erica advised us that there has been increased interest in New Zealand Pinot Gris, which made me very happy since I had really enjoyed the Pinot Gris wines I had tasted in New Zealand during my visit in 2011. She clarified that they are crafting wines that provide an alternate option to Pinot Grigio, since theirs is more similar in style to Oregon Pinot Gris. For her, the wine is great as an aperitif and walks the tightrope of sugar and alcohol, while providing good fruit flavor. As I taste it, it is lush on the palate, with good acidity, medium body and notes of almond, pear and citrus, with long length.

We then turned our attention to the two Sauvignon Blancs Erica had brought. The first was the Sauvignon Blanc 2020, which is a relatively typical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with fresh herbal characteristics joined by fresh citrus fruit, but with less pronounced notes than other NZ SBs. Erica describes it as being broader on the palate with pineapple, peach and cilantro notes, highlighting this latter aroma as making it a great option to pair with greens, especially kale, which can be a tricky wine partner.

Next up is their newest creation: Tee Sauvignon Blanc 2021. As its origin story, the intent was to keep sulfur levels low, but prevent oxidation. As a solution, they discovered a green tea additive in powder form that blocks the enzymes that cause oxidation in wine. In this way, they are able to produce not just a wine made with organic grapes, but actually a certified organic wine that is stable. This latter point is particularly important.

As a result, they have created a completely different iteration of Sauvignon Blanc. Depicted by Erica as having more mandarin, starfruit and spice aromas, the wine is also lower in acidity, yet richer than the first Sauvignon Blanc. It was really intriguing and exciting to taste this wine with its depth and structure, thanks to the tannins from the green tea as well as the six hours of skin contact that the wine received. It culminated in very long length and was my favorite wine of the night.

Our final wine of the evening was the Pinot Noir 2020 produced from fruit grown in Central Otago. This was really lovely with smoke, herbs, cherry and lots of earthiness on the medium bodied palate, along with nice, ripe tannins and good length.

Even though we were at a steakhouse, I opted to forgo the filet mignon and went with the scallops, accompanied by cauliflower purée and crispy prosciutto. It paired beautifully with both the Tee Sauvignon Blanc and the Pinot Noir.

At the end of the night, we were all reluctant to leave having renewed our relationships among Erica and ourselves. And that is everything.



Wonderful wines for the table

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There are meditation wines, cocktail-party wines and those that are really best enjoyed with food. With the holiday season upon us, the latter two are in particular demand as we head to family gatherings, holiday parties and other social events.

Wines best for the table generally have bright, vibrant acidity, which I have heard by one sommelier described as a “highlighter” of the meal, underscoring the flavor of the food. In this regard, there are a wide variety of choices with all colors (white, orange, rose and red) as well as both the absence and presence of effervescence very welcome in one’s glass.

Here are a wealth of options to consider as you shop the wine aisle or webpage of your favorite retailer or peruse the wine list while dining out.

Sparkling wines
As noted above, sparkling wines are very food friendly and most have beautiful acidity. Moreover, the sparkle in sparkling wines further cleanses the palate and makes them great for toasting at the table. Plus, we can’t discount the fun factor that bubbles add to any occasion, so they are especially appropriate for the celebratory season.

I’ve written about Prosecco Superiore numerous times (see this, this and this) because these are well-made wines at a great price. Produced via the tank method, these wines emphasize fruit and floral aromas and flavors and some have a slight sweetness (but are still decidedly dry) that can pair well with spice.

Albino Armani Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Veneto, Italy $19.99
Aromas and flavors of floral and pear, with nice consistent perlage, freshness on the palate, culminating in long length.

White and Orange Wines
Many white wines are good pairing partners due to their acidity, light to medium body and range of flavors to mix and match with what is being served. This is equally true of Chardonnay, plus it has some additional characteristics which work well with food such as its fuller body, which means it can stand up to richer, heavier fare. Similarly, those Chardonnays with buttery or woody notes are great options if you wish to echo these flavors in the food. For example, a rich, buttery Chardonnay paired with lobster tails in a creamy butter sauce.

Merry Edwards 2019 Olivet Lane Chardonnay, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00
Aromas of butter and smoke greet the nose and persist on the elegant palate, with apple and citrus flavors, good acidity, medium+ body and very long length.

Another “white” variety with some chameleon properties is Pinot Grigio (also known as Pinot Gris). In fact, the grape is not white, but rather gray (hence its name — both grigio and gris translate as gray in Italian and French, respectively). Yet, it can be produced in shades of white as well as orange.

Albino Armani Corvara Pinot Grigio 2019, Valdadige DOC, Italy, $14.99
Notes of smoke and tangerine give way to pear and minerality on the dry palate, with medium acidity, medium+ body and long length.

About Albino Armani
Albino Armani is a family-owned winery with five wineries situated in Northeast Italy and is particularly well regarded as a producer of Pinot Grigio (the family has been producing it for 400 years). In fact, Mr. Armani is presently President of the Consorzio Pinot Grigio delle Venezie.  He believes that the best climate for this grape is a cool climate with temperatures that range 55-59F, otherwise the resulting wines are lacking in acidity. In this regard, the Alto Adige region is perfect with its continental climate, good diurnal shifts and extended daylight hours. He produces several Pinot Grigio wines, including two single vineyard bottlings: one from the Corvara Vineyard and the other from the Colle Ara Vineyard. 

Found within Valdadige, the Corvara Vineyard is surrounded by mountains, whose limestone rock reflects sunlight onto the vines. Constant winds from these mountains and nearby Lake Garda help ward off disease.

From the Colle Ara Vineyard within the Terra dei Forti denomination (which was created 25 years ago), Albino produces a ramato style Pinot Grigio. Pale copper in color, this hue of this wine stems from skin contact: the grape juice is macerated with the grape skins for a brief period of time leaching color from the skins.  Recalling the wines of his childhood, Albino sought to reintroduce this traditional production method in creating this wine.

Lighter-bodied Reds: Schiava and Pinot Noir
Lighter bodied reds, especially ones with bright acidity, are another terrific option since they won’t overpower the food, but still have freshness to cleanse the palate. Two such grapes that fit this bill are Schiava and Pinot Noir.

Certainly not a household name (at least not yet), the Schiava grape variety
(also known as Vernatsch or Trollinger) hails from the Alto Adige region of Italy, where It has been cultivated since the 16th century. The variety is also grown in Germany, especially in the Baden-Wurttemberg area. Overall, these wines are lighter bodied, dry reds with aromas and flavors of berries, almonds and violets.

Today, the grape is finding renewed favor in the region, with more attention paid to quality both in the vineyard areas and in the winery. Thankfully, many older (80-100 year old) vines still exist, which adds complexity to the wines. With their vibrant acidity, light body and low tannins, Schiava wines are well suited to a wide range of cuisine including charcuterie, cheeses, pasta dishes, pizza as well as Asian cuisine.

Alois Lageder Vernatsch – Schiava 2020, Alto Adige, Italy, ~$20.00
Pale garnet in color, this wine has a stunning nose of cranberry and earth. The palate is dry, with tart acidity, medium- body and flavors of earth, cranberry, pomegranate, and smoke, finishing with medium+ length.

Castel Sallegg Wine Estate Schiava Bischofsleiten 2020 Sudtirol, Alto Adige Lago di Caldaro Scelto Classico, ~$20.00
Slight herbal aromas on the nose become more pronounced on the dry palate and are joined by cherry and berry notes. High acidity, medium body and long length. This was beautiful with roasted chicken.

Likewise, Pinot Noir is a quintessential quaffer at the table. With its bright acidity and depth of flavors from fruity to floral and herbal to earthy, it provides a robust palette from which to pair various dishes. Moreover, the range of styles currently produced (cooler climate vs. warmer climate) adds to the options from which to choose.

About Merry Edwards

I've once again had the pleasure of tasting through a number of Merry Edwards single vineyard Pinot Noirs, which I've discussed previously (see here, here and here). It was wonderful to revisit some favorites, especially the Bucher Vineyard.

Merry Edwards PINOT NOIR 2019, Sonoma Coast(CA), USA, $54.00
Aromas of cherries, earth and spice repeat on the palate, along with flavors of plum and berry. The dry palate has medium acidity, medium body, soft tannins, and long length. 

Merry Edwards BUCHER PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00
This wine offers up deeper, darker notes of spice, black cherries and an undercurrent of earth, with bright acidity, medium+ body, medium tannins and very long length.
 
Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00
Red and black fruit and slight herbal notes pervade the nose, while the dry, yet very ripe palate presents flavors of black cherry, spice, and dried herbs, with medium acidity, medium to full body, ripe tannins and long length.

Yet, even with the fruitier styles of Pinot Noir available in the market, they might not be the perfect foil for heartier fare. For dishes such as beef stews and pork chops, one might prefer a full-bodied red with good acidity, ripe tannins and lovely fruit flavors such as an Amarone or Cabernet Sauvignon.

Albino Armani Amarone Riserva Cuslanus 2015, Veneto, Italy, $59.99
Beautiful nose, showing some development, with spice, wood, dried cherries and plum. The dry palate offered up medium+ acidity, medium+-to-full body and long length.

To learn more about Valpolicella and Amarone, please see this issue of Drinking Wisely & Well.




A very Merry and bright future ahead

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Over the past year-plus, I have had the privilege of becoming familiar with the Merry Edwards Winery and its wines. Tasting through the single vineyard Pinot Noirs, I continue to be impressed with the quality, character and elegance of these various expressions of this grape as influenced by each unique terroir. 

As I discovered during the Gary Farrell tasting, the Russian River Valley has such a diversity of microclimates that the Russian River Valley Winegrowers have created six smaller areas they refer to as neighborhoods within the boundaries of the region to more accurately reflect these differences.

In this regard, the most recent selection of wines I tasted included selections from four different vineyards, including Georganne (Middle Reach), Olivet Lane (Santa Rosa Plains), Klopp (Laguna Ridge) and Coopersmith (Laguna Ridge), as well as the Russian River Valley Pinot, which is produced from grapes sourced from throughout the Valley.

Of course, while the vineyards’ locations within a given neighborhood (and hence microclimate) will influence the finished wine, it is also the soil, site and other growing factors that make the wines from each vineyard unique from another.

In addition to the beauty within each bottle, the most recent releases also sport new labels. These new designs preserve the spirit of the original, while freshening up the brand’s look. More importantly, the intention is to focus on the future with a positive outlook and much hope.

At a time when things are so in flux, we could all use more hope and desire for a bright future. As Merry Edwards Winery continues to craft such amazing wines, its future is bright indeed!

These wines are a perfect way to celebrate National Pinot Noir Day (August 18). Plus, you can participate in a special virtual tasting featuring Merry Edwards’ winemaker, Heidi von der Mehden, and Karen MacNeil, author of the “The Wine Bible,”

The two will be live on Zoom on Wednesday, August 18th @ 4 PM PDT and will taste:
– 2019 Merry Edwards Meredith Estate Pinot Noir
– 2019 Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
– 2019 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

If you wish to participate in this free event, register in advance online: https://www.merryedwards.com/special-offers

TASTING NOTES

These wines are available for purchase on the Merry Edwards’ website.

Merry Edwards Winery Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley(CA), US, $60.00
Spice and floral aromas greet the nose. The dry, yet juicy, palate offers up bright acidity, ripe raspberries, rhubarb, an herbal undercurrent, along with soft tannins, medium body, and very long length.

Merry Edwards Winery Coopersmith Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), US, $73.00
This vineyard, originally an apple orchard, was purchased by Merry and her husband (Ken Coopersmith) in 1999 and planted it to Pinot in 2001. Earthy, cherry and cocoa notes greet the nose and persist on the palate, with high acidity, medium body, soft tannins and very long length.

Merry Edwards Winery Georganne Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley, $70.00
Merry first leased this vineyard in 2006 from Georganne and Bob Proctor. As a sign that this collaboration was meant to be, Ken and Merry’s middle names are George and Ann, respectively. On the nose, this wine presents smoky, earthy and herbal aromas, with a generous palate of rich, round fruit — raspberries and cherries — joined by
herbaceous and a slight menthol note, with medium acidity, medium body, and very long length.

Merry Edwards Winery Klopp Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), US, $74.00
Originally planted in 1989, Merry has been involved with this vineyard from the very beginning. With the small berry clusters that this vineyard produces, the wines generally provide dark fruit and earthy notes. Aromas of dark cherries and blueberry persist on the dry palate, along with hints of herbs and earth, vibrant acidity and medium+ body, culminating in very long length.

Merry Edwards Winery Olivet Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), US, $80.00
Planted in 1973, Merry has been producing an Olivet Lane Pinot since 1997. On the nose, this wine displays floral, cherry and dried herbal notes. The palate is dry with medium+ acidity, firm, ripe tannins and medium+ body, with rich and concentrated tart cherry, herbs, earthy, and a black tea undercurrent, with very long length.

Gary Farrell Winery, the single vineyards and its neighborhoods

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As a pioneer of the Russian River Valley (in Sonoma, CA), Gary Farrell kicked off his wine career in the late 1970s with an emphasis on cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Working along with fellow vintners including Davis Bynum, Joe Rochioli and others, together they helped put this (now) prestigious area on the map.

The Gary Farrell label itself was launched in 1982, with the first wine produced with fruit from the Rochioli Vineyard. This set the stage for what was to follow – crafting wines from other people’s grapes. In fact, to this day, Gary Farrell doesn’t own any of its own vineyards; all of the fruit is “contracted” from various vineyards throughout the Valley – many with a simple handshake agreement. In this regard, Gary Farrell Winery has worked closely with many winegrowers for decades, currently sourcing grapes from about 36 vineyards, most (if not all) of which practice certified sustainable farming.



Sold in 2004, the winery is presently owned by Bill Price and a group of industry investors, keeping the same focus on pure expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Since 2012, the winery’s winemaking has been under the direction of Theresa Heredia, a California native with a bachelor’s degree in biochemistry from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo.

Heredia initially sought to leverage her love of science and her desire to share her knowledge through the pursuit of a Ph.D. However, during her graduate studies, she became fascinated about the research being conducted on the chemistry of wine by her fellow grad students. With a love of drinking wine already firmly entrenched, the discovery of wine science now called to her, and she transferred into the enology program three days later. She eventually left U.C. Davis to become a winemaker.

Over the next several years, Theresa gained experience at Saintsbury and Joseph Phelps’ Freestone Vineyards and also

developed a Burgundian approach through her work at Domaine de Montille. Thus, she came to her current role with a solid background in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as well as single-vineyard wines.

Thus, it is not surprising that upon Heredia’s arrival at Gary Farrell, the company shifted focus from one, single vineyard wine to 36 single vineyards, with the intention of showing the full expression of the Russian River Valley’s various vinous neighborhoods. In this regard, Heredia tailors her winemaking to the vineyard at the time of harvest. As she notes, her philosophy is to always respect the fruit.

A recent tasting provided an in-depth look at several of Gary Farrell’s single vineyard wines in an effort to compare and contrast the differing “neighborhoods” within the larger Russian River Valley. And, while the vineyards are not technically sub-AVAs, they do act as such, with distinct soil compositions, microclimates and clonal types, all of which impact the style of the resulting wine.

The wines tasted were all from the 2017 vintage, which sport new, blue labels to more easily distinguish these single vineyard wines from the company’s Russian River Selection wines. More specifically, the blue label designates a single vineyard. Two of the single vineyards have national distribution; the others are only available through the winery.

TASTING NOTES
CHARDONNAYS
All of the Chardonnays are 100% malolactic fermented, thereby converting the sharper, malic (think apple) acid into the creamier lactic (think milk) acid. The wines were barrel fermented in lightly toasted barrels about 30% and then aged for 8 to 9 months in oak barrels, 35% of which was new oak. The puncheons undergo a long, light toast, which imparts creaminess and richness, while minimizing oak influence. The overall goal is to accentuate the fruit, not mask it with wood.

Gary Farrell Winery Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $45.00
The Olivet Lane Vineyard is situated within the Santa Rosa Plains a unique, flat area with cold air that settles at night yielding wines with concentrated fruit, texture, and vibrant and juicy acidity. The vineyard was planted in 1975 with the Wente clone, which clone produces small berries.
The wine offered up aromas of apple and well-integrated oak, which persist on the dry palate, along with baking spices. The elegant wine displays medium+ acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Gary Farrell Winery Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $60.00
The Ritchie Vineyard hails from Laguna Ridge, which is located in the center of the Valley, thereby taking on characteristics of each adjacent area. The wines are generally packed with flavors, tremendous intensity and are more opulent and less acidity driven. The legendary Ritchie Vineyard was first planted in 1972. The selection of Chardonnay planted here develops hens and chicks (grapes of uneven sizes in the same bunch), which requires careful pressing.  Aromas of apple, citrus, smoke and oak greet the nose. The dry palate shows medium+ acidity, medium+ body, and flavors of golden apple, citrus/orange and very long length.

Gary Farrell Winery Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
The history between Rochioli Vineyard and Gary Farrell dates back 38 years, a vineyard found within the Middle Reach area. This northern part of the Russian River Valley, up near Healdsburg, is adjacent to the Russian River, which pulls fog and keeps nights cool. Meanwhile, the days are much warmer. Consequently, the resulting wines are typically riper with more tropical fruit. This wine provides notes of citrus and stone fruit on both the nose and dry palate. Richer and riper than the other two, this wine displays juicy acidity, fuller body, with flavors of citrus and wood, culminating in very long length. 

PINOT NOIRS

Gary Farrell Winery Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
Also found within the Middle Reach area, the Bacigalupi Vineyard was established in 1964 when Helen and Charles Bacigalupi planted it to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and later claimed fame as the growers of the grapes used by Chateau Montelena’s winning wine in the Judgement of Paris in 1976. Pinot Noir from Middle Reach usually offers up notes of cherry, rose petals, floral, raspberries, and a general supple expression of fruit and earthiness. With aromas of red cherries, smoke and dried flowers, this wine is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, and flavors of spice, earth, cherry, giving way to long length.


Gary Farrell Winery Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Green Valley/Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $55.00
The Hallberg Vineyard takes its name from its previous owners and sits within Green Valley, which is actually an official sub-AVA of the Russian River Valley. Thanks to the Green Valley’s proximity to the Pacific Ocean, it is drenched in fog from the afternoon until the following morning. Resulting wines most frequently display an earthy backbone with bright acidity and darker fruit such as cassis and huckleberry. Aromas of black raspberry, blackberry and earthiness persist on the dry palate, along with bracing acidity, medium body and very long length.

Gary Farrell Winery McDonald Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $70.00
Situated within Sebastopol Hills, the McDonald Mountain Vineyard is at the southern tip of the Russian River Valley, with exposure to the Petaluma Gap. Known as the “heartbreak vineyard,” yields are very low and there is natural desiccation due to lots of wind, fog and cool weather. Additionally, the clonal selection results in tiny clusters. The key characteristic of these wines is an acid backbone, with less fruit, more earth character.
The nose offers up notes of earth, black tea, cassis, raspberry and exotic spice, with a dry, angular palate, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.

Gary Farrell Winery Martaella Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
Another vineyard who calls the Santa Rosa Plains home, the Martaella Vineyard is planted similarly to those in Burgundy with vines trained low to the ground to keeps the vines warmer overnight. The vineyard is planted to a blend of an heirloom selection of grapes.
An opulent wine with high acidity and good fruit concentration, it is elegant, rich and complex, with dark fruit flavors of blueberries, cherries, floral and spice, culminating in long length.

Maps courtesy of: https://russianrivervalley.org/discover/neighborhoods
Photographs courtesy of Gary Farrell Winery