Tag Archives: tasting notes

Home is where the heart (and wine) is! Merry Edwards and Friends help us find meaningful moments and connections amidst an angst-ridden year.

Posted on by
Reply

We’ve finally landed in a new place – a new, physical space and a new state of being. And I can finally breathe a sigh of relief. It has been an incredibly challenging time for me over the past several years as I have struggled with anxiety, financial instability, fear, overwhelm, aging and heartbreak.

Much of this can be attributed to the real estate roller coaster on which my husband and I have been on. More specifically, due to financial constraints, in mid-2023, we made the difficult decision to put our home on the market and move to a new neighborhood with the aim of reducing our monthly living expenses. It was an easily conceived plan, yet not so easily implemented.

In fact, what started as a simple idea became a complicated journey that lasted for two and half years and added a lot of stress and strife to our already hectic lives. As a result, we were forced to deal with much uncertainty, a loss of autonomy and a heightened and sustained state of fight/flight/freeze/fawn.

Along the way, we found ourselves half-packed for a period of six months, as we waited for all of the various elements to successfully conclude with the sale of our apartment. Our next leg consisted of subletting a place in a fifth-floor walk up in midtown Manhattan for three months, carrying our medically-compromised dog up and down the stairs at least three times a day. While we were truly grateful to have a safe place to land for that time period, it was definitely not fun.

Thankfully, we are finally on the other side of this ordeal and are trying to level-set our lives once again as we settle into our new home and new normal.

However, all of this upheaval definitely stirred up a lot of feelings, causing us to ask the question: What is a home, anyway? Is it bricks and mortar? Is it your mailing address? Is it simply the place where you lay your head each night?

For twelve years, we had lived in an apartment we had dubbed ZenSKape. With its Zen-like decor – a shoji screen room divider, a waterfall wall feature and art from our trip to Japan – it had been our sanctuary during that time. But, living day-to-day, surrounded by a perimeter of boxes, our home shifted into someplace we no longer felt calm. Then, the relocation to someone else’s residence, added to our sense of unease and a lack of belonging.

In response to this nervous system dysregulation, I found myself reaching out to friends with greater frequency, trying to find that calm and connection. And, many of these meet ups centered around wine, lending a festive and familiar air to our visits. Wine was a constant, keeping us tethered to community and reminding us to find moments of pleasure, peace and happiness, even on some of the hardest days. And, ultimately, finding the joy of making it to the end of this journey!

TASTING NOTES
Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00
May 2025 found me in the moments before the chaos. We were in contract on both the sale of our apartment and the purchase of a new one, anticipating a positive outcome to the lengthy process. In that spirit of enthusiasm, I met up with my friend Ron at his apartment, with a bottle of Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2023 in hand. We opened up the bottle, poured the wine and conversation flowed. Bright acidity, medium plus body, slight herbs, citrus and tropical fruit, culminating in long length and pairing beautifully with Thai cuisine.

Merry Edwards Meredith Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00
Domaine Anderson Pinot Noir 2021, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $55.00
A few weeks later, we admittedly started to feel nostalgic as the end date of living at ZenSKape loomed large. We made linguini with clam sauce for dinner at home and reached for the Merry Edwards Meredith Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2023. With tropical fruit and citrus aromas, it was more reserved on the palate, with tart citrus, minerality and long length. In a similar bid for holding on to precious moments, we enjoyed a picnic in Fort Tryon Park with our neighbors, preparing Tuna Nicoise and pairing it with the Domaine Anderson Pinot Noir 2021.


Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022, Sonoma Coast (CA), USA, $50.00
In further anticipation of our impending move to Riverdale, I met up with my dear friend Aleksandra in her home in Riverdale in June, bearing a bottle of Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. The visit was lovely as was the wine, which offered up bright acidity, medium body, luscious red fruit, slight herbal undertones and long length.

Merry Edwards 25th Anniversary Pinot Noir 2022, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $120.00
Yet, by now, the fatigue of uncertainty had started to weigh on our minds. We had expected to be closing on both places by the end of June, but midway through the month, nothing had changed. Then, only a few days later, we learned that our application to the board in our proposed new building was denied. In the wake of that distressing news, we tried to find a bright spot by enjoying the 2022 25th Anniversary Pinot Noir, which displayed notes of raspberry and dark cherries on the nose. The dry palate presented lively acidity, medium-plus body, with hints of cocoa and spice, along with a very long length. Not long after this delicious diversion, we finished packing up all of our wines, limiting our home consumption for some time.

Bon Vivant Sparkling Rosé NV, California, USA, $20.00
Finally, in early October, the sale of our apartment was complete and we relocated to the midtown sublet noted above. In an effort to make the sublet our own, we found ways to spend time together and with friends. On one occasion, my friend Laura stopped by on a Friday evening, during which we enjoyed the Bon Vivant Sparkling Rosé with charcuterie, cheese and olives before heading to City Center for a mesmerizing dance production of Turn It Out with Tiler Peck & Friends. With a beautiful pale salmon hue, the effervescence danced on our tongues, with flavors of citrus, apple skin and toast.

Bon Vivant Sparkling NV, California, USA, $20.00
Not wanting him to feel left out, I opened up the rose’s Brut sparkler equivalent the following week for our date night in the sublet with Thai takeout. Both this wine and the rose were really wonderful examples of Traditional Method sparkling wines available at a reasonable price point. The Brut had an elegant mousse, with aromas of toast, green apple, citrus and long length.

Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Chardonnay 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $70.00
By now it was mid-November and Thanksgiving was around the corner. As it had been awhile since I had seen my friend Ron, we made our usual plans to meet up at his place over a bottle or two. I knew he would appreciate this single vineyard Chard, with its complex aromas of lemon, citrus, vanilla and toffee. The excellent, full bodied white had bright acidity and very long length; it did not disappoint.


Scharffenberger Cellars Blanc de Noirs 2019, Mendocino County (CA), USA, $40.00
Domaine Anderson Estate Pinot Noir 2022, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $55.00
Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $77.00
For the past five years, we had hosted Friendsgiving in our apartment, which was an important and meaningful celebration for us. But, being in temporary housing meant that such a gathering was impossible. Gratefully, our dear friends who had been welcome guests at our Friendsgiving table took up the mantle to host and invited us to join them and others. We arrived ready to relish a sumptuous meal, surrounded by chosen family and fabulous food, with a Trader Joe’s pumpkin pie and three bottles of wine. We kicked off the festivities with the Scharffenberger Blanc de Noirs 2019, with its notes of toast and lemon, joined by a hint of almond in the finish. As the meal progressed, we opened up two Pinot Noirs, which are a great accompaniment at the Thanksgiving table, as I have shared previously. The Domaine Anderson Estate Pinot Noir 2022 provided an array of dried herbs, spice, berries and fresh red fruits, along with good acidity, medium body and long length. In contrast, the Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2023 was less fruit forward and much moodier with smoke, fresh herbal notes, and wet leaves,, but was still bright on the palate with medium-plus body and very long length.


Scharffenberger Sparkling Rosé NV, Mendocino County (CA), USA, $30.00
On the heels of this holiday high, we were grateful to receive good news – our interview with the board at our new apartment co-op had been scheduled for early December. This boded well since it is rare that you are invited to interview if you won’t be accepted soon after. Fingers crossed, we went into the interview cautiously optimistic. Our hard work in putting together our board package was richly rewarded with the announcement that we had, indeed, been accepted. For certain, this called for a bubbly celebration and the Scharffenberger Sparkling Rosé was a perfect option. We slowly savored the mix of red cherries and yeasty notes; admired the palate’s lovely mousse, good acidity and long length; and exhaled a big sigh of relief.  We finally had a new home!

Roederer Estate Sparkling Brut MV, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $32.00
Roederer Estate Sparkling Rose MV, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $39.00
We had the good fortune to be able to move into our apartment in time for the December holidays and, consequently, kept the celebration going. Christmas Day found us at home, happy to be able to continue our Christmas tradition of a Jewish Christmas (Chinese food and movies) in our new place. We merrily toasted the season with Roederer Estate’s Sparkling Rose, which offered up fresh notes of strawberry, apple peel and yeast, along with bright acidity and long length. The Sparkling Brut was wonderful a few days later as we unpacked our lives and got ready for the new year.


Domaine Anderson Estate Chardonnay 2022, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $40.00
Merry Edwards Georgeanne Pinot Noir 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $72.00
For the MLK Holiday weekend, we hunkered down with the snow and settled into our annual connection weekend tradition. Among our activities, we enjoyed some nice dinners together and opened up two wines over the course of the weekend. The Chardonnay displayed a balanced use of oak, with citrus and tropical fruit, medium-plus body and medium acidity. We especially loved the Georganne Pinot Noir 2023, with its range of aromas and flavors from wet leaves and coffee to cherries and cocoa, along with bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Domaine Anderson Pinoli Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021, Anderson Valley, (CA), USA, $70.00
Merry Edwards Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2023, Anderson Valley, (CA), USA, $55.00
At this point in our tenure, we were ready to welcome guests to our home, which we had christened, MaisonOtto. First to visit were Hillarie and Tom, from our previous building, as well as my friend Helene. They all had the good fortune to enjoy Domaine Anderson Pinoli Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 with its depth of bright red fruit, blueberry, and spices. The palate provided good acidity, medium body and very long length. A week or so later, Keith and Linda stopped by before we headed out to dinner at the new Mediterranean restaurant, Sawa, around the corner. We opened up the Merry Edwards Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2023, which displayed aromas of cocoa, blueberry and blackberry, slight herbs and earth, which gave way to bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Roederer Estate Clark Road Vineyard 2021, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $55.00
Merry Edwards Coopersmith Pinot Noir 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $75.00
Finally, by mid-February, we were mostly settled and were ready to host our first dinner party, which took the form of a February Baby Birthday Dinner – celebrating two of my best friends whose birthdays are in February. The menu included Carrot and Ginger Soup, Beef Tagine with Apricots and Prunes and a Gluten-Free Chocolate Gingerbread Cake. Admittedly, I was too busy hosting to take good tasting notes, but both wines were truly well received and added greatly to the celebratory nature of the birthday dinner. It had been an arduous journey, but we had definitely arrived on the other side. Home Sweet Home!

Loire Valley Wine for the Win

Posted on by
1

With Thanksgiving around the corner, one need not look any further than the Loire Valley for wonderful wines to grace their table. Here, in the land of castles and Kings, French royalty would spend their summers in the countryside away from the hustle and bustle of Parisian city life.

Spanning 629 miles and stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the center of France before heading south, the Loire River is the longest wild river in France. Given this vast distance covered, a diversity of climates, grapes and wines exist, making the river among the only threads that tie this large wine region together. Rather, while lumped into one large region, the Loire Valley is actually an amalgam of several smaller wine appellations that offer up a wide range of wines thanks to changing microclimates, soil types and grape varieties. This sheer diversity means that there is something for everyone from bone dry, mineral-driven whites to lusciously sweet dessert wines and everything in between. Additionally, the area is known for its full range of red, white, rose and refreshing sparklers. So, if you can’t find a Loire Valley wine to love… chances are that you don’t actually like wine 😉.

My husband and I visited the Loire Valley back in 1999, as part of a belated honeymoon trip through France. Our knowledge of the area was limited, but we were excited to visit the grand chateaux that now function as museums. However, upon arriving in the region, we quickly discovered that it was not only home to stunning scenery, exquisite castles and fabulous gastronomy, but it was also home to a plethora of wine.

To wit, we had barely entered the area when we were enticed to stop at Domaine Ackerman where we did a tasting of their Crémant de Loire sparkling wines. These Traditional Method sparklers spend a minimum of nine months aging on the lees and deliver great quality and value. It was a lovely introduction to the region and a welcome respite after our long drive.

Today, 85% of Loire Valley vineyards are farmed in adherence with one or more environmental approaches, signifying the region’s dedication to sustainable practices. The most prevalent varieties include Cabernet Franc (most notably the Bourgueil and Chinon appellations), Chenin Blanc (grown in the areas of Anjou, Saumur and Vouvray) and Melon (wines labeled as Muscadet, hailing from the Atlantic coast). Another key grape is Sauvignon Blanc, which is primarily planted in the continental climate of the Central Vineyards (with wines labeled — and perhaps more recognizable to consumers as — Sancerre, Pouilly Fume, and Menetou-Salon).

At a recent walk-around tasting and dinner at Lafayette, I had the opportunity to taste through a vast selection of Loire Valley wines, presented by category. While I didn’t try every single wine on offer (nor did I attempt to do so), I did a pretty good job, sipping (and spitting) 37 of the 50 wines. After the tasting portion of the evening, we were treated to a sumptuous, multi-course meal, paired with additional Loire Valley wines.

A few of my favorite wines from the evening are listed below, but I highly encourage you to simply seek out Loire Valley wines on restaurant wine lists and at your local bottle shop. Not only do they offer great diversity, they are generally well priced and very food friendly, making them a fantastic option for your holiday celebrations.


Sparkling
Domaine du Changeon Les Fabuleuses 2023, Crémant de Loire, France
This 100% Cabernet Franc rose sparkler offers up notes of yeast, and floral. It was slightly fuller bodied, with a heftier palate than some of the others I tasted, with a nice richness and weight, culminating in very long length.

Maison Ackerman Crémant de Loire Rosé Brut Bulle Royale, Crémant de Loire, France
Having visited this winery decades ago, it was a pleasure to become reacquainted with their wines. Another rose sparkling wine, this one brings together 60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Pinot Noir and 10% Grolleau. It displayed elegance and finesse with a fine bead on the palate, along with slight cherry and yeast aromas and flavors.

Sauvignon Blanc & Other Whites
Domaine Pre Baron Sauvignon Blanc 2024, Touraine AOC, France
A more restrained style of Sauvignon Blanc than many of those produced in New Zealand, this wine provided citrus and mineral notes, along with medium body and good length.

Vignoble Gilbert Chon, Perle Bleue – Folle Blanche 2023 Gros Plant due Pays Nantais, France
While Folle Blanche is not a well known grape, most relegated to the production of Cognac and Armagnac, this wine was a shining example of how a less lauded variety is capable of producing a simple, yet very satisfying wine. Citrus notes, crisp acidity, and good length.

Melon Blanc
Domaine Julien Braud Les Vignes du Bourg 2023, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine AOC, France
Aged for six months on the lees in glass-lined vats, this wine shows bright acidity, yeasty aromas, joined by citrus-lime flavors on the palate, with long length.

Vignoble Gilbert Chon Muscat Chateau de la Jousseliniere 2023, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine AOC, France
Having spent more than 8 months aging on the lees, this wine displays more pronounced yeast notes, along with minerality and very long length. It is the quintessential pairing partner to oysters.

Chenin Blanc
Alliance Loire Vouvray Sec Les Lys 2021, Vouvray, France
This wine offers up a complex mix of minerality and tree fruit, with a rich palate and really lovely mouthfeel, culminating with long length.

Domaine de la Chataigneraie Vouvray de Gautier 2023, Vouvray AOC, France
Similarly rich and complex, this wine provides very ripe tropical fruit, but is balanced with vibrant acidity.

Roses & Reds
Lacheteau Soupcon de Fruit Rose d’Anjou 2024, Rosé d´Anjou AOC, France
A blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 20% Grolleau, and 20% Gamay, this off-dry rose shows ripe, red berries, but remains fresh and balanced with good acidity and nice length.

Domaine Oudart Apicula 2023, Touraine AOC, France
Produced from 100% Gamay — a grape more associated with Beaujolais than the Loire — this is a fresh and fragrant quaffable red, with ripe fruit, and candied bacon.

Cabernet Franc
Catherine et Pierre Breton Trinch! 2023, Bourgueil AOC, France
Layered notes of dried herbs, spice, and black cherry, with crunchy acidity, medium+ body, integrated tannins and long length.

Amirault -Clos des Quarterons ls Quarterons2023, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil AOC, France
Biodynamically produced by members of the 6th generation, this is really lovely, with soft tannins, lots of minerality, fresh red fruit, an herbal undercurrent and long length.

Domaine Pierre et Bertrand Couly La Haute Olive 2018, Chinon AOC, France
Enjoyed with dinner, this wine was a beautiful pairing with the Short Rib Bourguignon and showed off that these wines have aging potential.

Get to know Paso and Continental Vineyards

Posted on by
1

Although less well known than Napa or Sonoma, the California Central Coast wine region of Paso Robles produces high quality wines and has become a wonderful destination for wine tourism.

I first visited the region in 2007 after having participated in the Society of Wine Educator’s conference, which was held in Monterey, CA that year. Post-conference, we headed south to Big Sur and spent a few days enjoying the beautiful Pacific Coast Highway, hiking in state parks and relaxing in our yurt at Treebones Resort.

With a red-eye flight from San Jose to home, we had a full final day of our vacation and we opted to head even further south and spend time getting to know Paso. It did not disappoint and we thoroughly enjoyed our time visiting wineries, including Turley, Lone Madrone, Tobin James and Eberle, among others, and meeting amazing people. Plus, we relished the hot, sunny weather.

Our time in Big Sur had been lovely, but quite cool, rarely getting above 70°F and it has been consistently clouded in fog. Rising early in the morning, we headed due South on CA-1 for about an hour, before reaching the turn off onto CA-46E. As we drove inland, the foggy conditions intensified until we were driving through the thick clouds. We continued carefully, climbing in altitude, until we were literally above the clouds and then free of them altogether, as we completed the final miles of our journey and were met with clear skies, sunshine and 85°F degree weather.

At that point in my wine studies, I had read about how mountains such as the Vosges in Alsace or the Cascades in Washington state protected the eastern-lying areas from cooler climates and wet weather, but it wasn’t until that day that I truly saw it in action.

Hence, Paso Robles is home to a hot summer, Mediterranean climate, providing optimum growing conditions for vineyards. But, it is also home to the state’s largest diurnal temperature swing, varying by as much as 40 degrees in a given day. Consequently, the grapes fully ripen due to the heat with balanced sugar and acid flavors due to the cooler nights. Of course, as in any region, there are various microclimates within.

Initially settled by Native Americans, the area became a gateway to two of the California Missions in the late 1700s and, by the middle of the 19th century, Paso Robles was known as a resort town due to its sulfur springs. And, while wine was produced in the region for the missions, it wasn’t until the 1920s that a more commercial vineyard of 2,000 acres was planted to Petite Syrah and Zinfandel by Ignacy Paderewski, a famous Polish statesman and concert pianist (Source: https://www.prcity.com/377/History-of-Paso-Robles) 

By the late 1960s, there was a wine grape growing boom, followed by significant vineyard development in the 1990s, representing a 72% growth. Since then, Paso continues to grow and prosper vinously, increasing from 170 wineries in 2007 to more than 200 wineries today (as per the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance’s website) and similarly expanding from more than 40 different varieties planted in its vineyards to over 60. (ibid).

Among the vast collection of wineries, I was recently introduced to Continental Vineyards, which  has a long history of growing grapes and making wine in Paso. The property was planted in 1973 by Herman Schwartz, with early adoption of sustainable agriculture in the 1980s. Schwartz continued to upgrade his vines, selecting high quality vines for replanting. Ownership of these quality vineyards was transferred in 2006, with a continued emphasis on sustainability. It is presently planted to approximately 713 acres of grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay and others.

Today, the site is home to two sister brands: CV Wines and Broken Earth, cultivating grapes from this legendary vineyard. The former brand is dedicated to Bordeaux varieties while the latter produces a wider range of wines from the diverse varieties grown on the estate. Both brands are California Sustainable Winegrowing Certified. To that end, they have implemented cutting-edge irrigation and water-use strategies, among other practices. Moreover, with more than 50 years of experience and growth (both literally and figuratively), these are beautifully crafted wines that are worth seeking out.

If you are looking for a wine destination this summer, check out Paso Robles. Alternately, the region will be hosting a tasting event in San Jose: Savor Paso on June 27, 2025.

TASTING NOTES

CV Reserve Cabernet Franc 2022, Paso Robles (CA), USA, $80.00
This wine spends 24 months aging in 100% new oak. On the nose, it offers up notes of herbs, spice, oak, mulberry and cranberry. The full-bodied palate has medium acidity, firm tannins and an undercurrent of wet leaves in the long finish.

CV Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Paso Robles (CA), USA, $80.00
Also aged for 24 months in new oak, this wine displays aromas of warm red and black fruit, with cedar and slight spice. Complex and balanced, the palate is dry, with ripe fruit; firm, ripe tannins; warmth; good acidity;  full body and very long length.

CV Studium 2020, Paso Robles (CA), USA, $80.00
The name of this proprietary blend translates as “house of learning” and is produced with an unspecified mix of Bordeaux grape varieties. Initially aged in neutral oak barrels for 12 months, the wine is then transferred to second use French oak for additional aging. The result is a nose with smoke, leather and black fruit. The palate displays bright acidity, full body and firm, ripe tannins, along with a hint of vanilla and spice, culminating in long length.

A New Look at Long Island Wines

Posted on by
Reply

With the first vineyard planted in 1973 by a young, starry-eyed couple fresh out of Harvard, the first seeds (or rather vines) of the Long Island wine region were sown. That couple, Louisa and Alex Hargrave, were true pioneers, bringing vision and bravado to their newly purchased farm. Much like the early English settlers that preceded them, Alex and Louisa came to the task with limited knowledge, but unlimited passion and drive, pushing them to succeed where others were sure they would fail. Before long, they were joined in their efforts by other adventurous souls, all of whom were in love with wine. As time flew by, a fledgling wine region was born, eventually becoming an internationally recognized producer of quality wine.

Today, there are 48 winery members of Long Island Wine Country, situated among the North Fork, South Fork (aka The Hamptons) and Long Island’s Western Suffolk County. The region has garnered repeated praise in both consumer and trade publications. Moreover, the bucolic region has retained much of its rural charm, making it a true escape from the hustle and bustle of New York City, located only two hours away.  Accordingly, the region makes a great getaway to visit the vineyards, taste some wines and stock up for the summer.

I have been familiar with Long Island wines since the early 2000s. In particular, when I first joined the wine industry in mid-2005, I set up a wine education business in Mattituck, adjacent to Macari Vineyards.  As our lives changed, we sold our Long Island real estate in 2013 and have only been back to the region a handful of times since then (see Island Wines), not for any other reason that being busy with other things. For me, Long Island wines are the jewel in New York State’s vinous crown, with high quality wines, exciting innovations in winemaking and warm-hearted people. At nearly 50 years old, the region has indeed found its footing and honed its knowledge of the terroir. Thus, it was a pleasure as well as a trip down memory lane as I recently tasted through a half case of Long Island wines.

TASTING NOTES

Sparkling Pointe Topaz Imperial Rose 2019, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $44.00
Produced in the same method as those from Champagne, this wine was produced with 50% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir and 16% Pinot Meunier, the same grape varieties used in that vaunted region. Sparkling Pointe is dedicated solely to sparkling wines and with few things more festive than bubbles, it was the perfect way to ring in the new year when we spent New Year’s Eve at the winery one year. More recently, we enjoyed the wine for an at-home date night of oysters, charcuterie and cheeses. The nose offers up intense fruit character of raspberry and strawberry, while the palate displays a fine and persistent perlage, good acidity, and lovely fruit flavors, culminating in long length.

Anthony Nappa Wines, Frizzante NV, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $22.00
Originally a winemaker for Shinn Estate (now known as Rose Hill Vineyards), Anthony launched his own eponymous brand in 2007 and has been pushing the envelope since the beginning as evidenced by his white Pinot Noir aptly named Anomaly. This blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 30% Viognier, 25% Moscato Giallo, undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle and is then aged sur lie (known in Italy as the Col Fondo method) yielding a lightly sparkling wine (hence the name frizzante). Somewhat cloudy, thanks to the production methods, this wine shows aromatic fruit and floral notes, slightly reminiscent of cider, on the nose and palate, with slight effervescence, good acidity, depth and concentration, and long length.

Macari Sauvignon Blanc “Katherine’s Field” 2016, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $24.00
The Macari family has been active in the region since 1960s, planting vines in 1995. The third generation of the family is now involved in the business. Today, they are firmly focused on sustainability and implement biodynamic farming practices in the vineyards. This 100% stainless steel fermented, Sauvignon Blanc shows slight smoke, citrus and tropical fruit on the nose. Citrus and tropical fruit persist on the dry palate, joined by a hint of savory herbal notes, with fresh, crisp acidity, a slight prickle, and long length.

Also see this story.

Peconic Bay Vineyards Riesling 2020, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $28.00
One of the first wineries we visited back in the day was Peconic Bay winery. The winery has recently re-opened after a lengthy closure, but vines were tended to during this interim period, so there is no loss to the quality of the fruit. Peconic Bay has always been well respected for its Riesling, which is classic in nature. slightly off dry, but mostly dry, crisp acidity, medium body, long length.

McCall Wines, Estate Pinot Noir 2015, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $30.00
As part of his efforts to save the farmland adjacent to his family’s property from the threat of development, Russ McCall planted his fields with twenty-one acres of vineyards, eventually making his first wines in 2007. The tasting room opened in 2010. I have a been a big fan of his Pinot Noirs since I first tasted them, and they continue to impress me. This latest bottle was no exception. Beautiful notes of earth and herbs greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, joined by tart cherry and berry flavors, with good acidity, medium body and long length.

The Lenz Winery, Estate Selection Merlot 2015, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $35.00
Originally established by the Lenz family, in 1988 the winery was sold to Peter and Deborah Carroll who have continued to maintain the highest standards for their wines, pitting them against world renowned wines in blind tastings where they hold their own and then some. The winemaking team is led by Eric Fry, who has been with Lenz since 1989. This lovely Merlot offers up smoky, plum and coffee notes on the nose, which persist on the palate, which is dry, with medium body, medium+ acidity, and long length.

Gary Farrell Winery, the single vineyards and its neighborhoods

Posted on by
Reply

As a pioneer of the Russian River Valley (in Sonoma, CA), Gary Farrell kicked off his wine career in the late 1970s with an emphasis on cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Working along with fellow vintners including Davis Bynum, Joe Rochioli and others, together they helped put this (now) prestigious area on the map.

The Gary Farrell label itself was launched in 1982, with the first wine produced with fruit from the Rochioli Vineyard. This set the stage for what was to follow – crafting wines from other people’s grapes. In fact, to this day, Gary Farrell doesn’t own any of its own vineyards; all of the fruit is “contracted” from various vineyards throughout the Valley – many with a simple handshake agreement. In this regard, Gary Farrell Winery has worked closely with many winegrowers for decades, currently sourcing grapes from about 36 vineyards, most (if not all) of which practice certified sustainable farming.



Sold in 2004, the winery is presently owned by Bill Price and a group of industry investors, keeping the same focus on pure expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Since 2012, the winery’s winemaking has been under the direction of Theresa Heredia, a California native with a bachelor’s degree in biochemistry from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo.

Heredia initially sought to leverage her love of science and her desire to share her knowledge through the pursuit of a Ph.D. However, during her graduate studies, she became fascinated about the research being conducted on the chemistry of wine by her fellow grad students. With a love of drinking wine already firmly entrenched, the discovery of wine science now called to her, and she transferred into the enology program three days later. She eventually left U.C. Davis to become a winemaker.

Over the next several years, Theresa gained experience at Saintsbury and Joseph Phelps’ Freestone Vineyards and also

developed a Burgundian approach through her work at Domaine de Montille. Thus, she came to her current role with a solid background in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as well as single-vineyard wines.

Thus, it is not surprising that upon Heredia’s arrival at Gary Farrell, the company shifted focus from one, single vineyard wine to 36 single vineyards, with the intention of showing the full expression of the Russian River Valley’s various vinous neighborhoods. In this regard, Heredia tailors her winemaking to the vineyard at the time of harvest. As she notes, her philosophy is to always respect the fruit.

A recent tasting provided an in-depth look at several of Gary Farrell’s single vineyard wines in an effort to compare and contrast the differing “neighborhoods” within the larger Russian River Valley. And, while the vineyards are not technically sub-AVAs, they do act as such, with distinct soil compositions, microclimates and clonal types, all of which impact the style of the resulting wine.

The wines tasted were all from the 2017 vintage, which sport new, blue labels to more easily distinguish these single vineyard wines from the company’s Russian River Selection wines. More specifically, the blue label designates a single vineyard. Two of the single vineyards have national distribution; the others are only available through the winery.

TASTING NOTES
CHARDONNAYS
All of the Chardonnays are 100% malolactic fermented, thereby converting the sharper, malic (think apple) acid into the creamier lactic (think milk) acid. The wines were barrel fermented in lightly toasted barrels about 30% and then aged for 8 to 9 months in oak barrels, 35% of which was new oak. The puncheons undergo a long, light toast, which imparts creaminess and richness, while minimizing oak influence. The overall goal is to accentuate the fruit, not mask it with wood.

Gary Farrell Winery Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $45.00
The Olivet Lane Vineyard is situated within the Santa Rosa Plains a unique, flat area with cold air that settles at night yielding wines with concentrated fruit, texture, and vibrant and juicy acidity. The vineyard was planted in 1975 with the Wente clone, which clone produces small berries.
The wine offered up aromas of apple and well-integrated oak, which persist on the dry palate, along with baking spices. The elegant wine displays medium+ acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Gary Farrell Winery Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $60.00
The Ritchie Vineyard hails from Laguna Ridge, which is located in the center of the Valley, thereby taking on characteristics of each adjacent area. The wines are generally packed with flavors, tremendous intensity and are more opulent and less acidity driven. The legendary Ritchie Vineyard was first planted in 1972. The selection of Chardonnay planted here develops hens and chicks (grapes of uneven sizes in the same bunch), which requires careful pressing.  Aromas of apple, citrus, smoke and oak greet the nose. The dry palate shows medium+ acidity, medium+ body, and flavors of golden apple, citrus/orange and very long length.

Gary Farrell Winery Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
The history between Rochioli Vineyard and Gary Farrell dates back 38 years, a vineyard found within the Middle Reach area. This northern part of the Russian River Valley, up near Healdsburg, is adjacent to the Russian River, which pulls fog and keeps nights cool. Meanwhile, the days are much warmer. Consequently, the resulting wines are typically riper with more tropical fruit. This wine provides notes of citrus and stone fruit on both the nose and dry palate. Richer and riper than the other two, this wine displays juicy acidity, fuller body, with flavors of citrus and wood, culminating in very long length. 

PINOT NOIRS

Gary Farrell Winery Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
Also found within the Middle Reach area, the Bacigalupi Vineyard was established in 1964 when Helen and Charles Bacigalupi planted it to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and later claimed fame as the growers of the grapes used by Chateau Montelena’s winning wine in the Judgement of Paris in 1976. Pinot Noir from Middle Reach usually offers up notes of cherry, rose petals, floral, raspberries, and a general supple expression of fruit and earthiness. With aromas of red cherries, smoke and dried flowers, this wine is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, and flavors of spice, earth, cherry, giving way to long length.


Gary Farrell Winery Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Green Valley/Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $55.00
The Hallberg Vineyard takes its name from its previous owners and sits within Green Valley, which is actually an official sub-AVA of the Russian River Valley. Thanks to the Green Valley’s proximity to the Pacific Ocean, it is drenched in fog from the afternoon until the following morning. Resulting wines most frequently display an earthy backbone with bright acidity and darker fruit such as cassis and huckleberry. Aromas of black raspberry, blackberry and earthiness persist on the dry palate, along with bracing acidity, medium body and very long length.

Gary Farrell Winery McDonald Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $70.00
Situated within Sebastopol Hills, the McDonald Mountain Vineyard is at the southern tip of the Russian River Valley, with exposure to the Petaluma Gap. Known as the “heartbreak vineyard,” yields are very low and there is natural desiccation due to lots of wind, fog and cool weather. Additionally, the clonal selection results in tiny clusters. The key characteristic of these wines is an acid backbone, with less fruit, more earth character.
The nose offers up notes of earth, black tea, cassis, raspberry and exotic spice, with a dry, angular palate, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.

Gary Farrell Winery Martaella Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
Another vineyard who calls the Santa Rosa Plains home, the Martaella Vineyard is planted similarly to those in Burgundy with vines trained low to the ground to keeps the vines warmer overnight. The vineyard is planted to a blend of an heirloom selection of grapes.
An opulent wine with high acidity and good fruit concentration, it is elegant, rich and complex, with dark fruit flavors of blueberries, cherries, floral and spice, culminating in long length.

Maps courtesy of: https://russianrivervalley.org/discover/neighborhoods
Photographs courtesy of Gary Farrell Winery


Picnics of Perfection and the Perfect Wines to Pair with them

Posted on by
Reply

The fires of Beltane have come and gone, ushering in warmer weather and brighter days as we await next month’s Summer Solstice. For me, this means outdoor dining
and, while outdoor dining took on new meaning this past year, there’s something about eating outside that generally adds to the ambience (although less so in February — at least in New York). Of course, with lovely weather, verdant lawns, delicious food and great friends, a picnic is an especially lovely experience. Thus, my tiffin box and I were delighted to take to the park recently in search of sun, al fresco fare and good company, accompanied by good wine.

I can still remember one of my first picnics as a young child. I simply draped a cloth on an old tree stump and proceeded to enjoy my lunch. As I got older, my picnics became more elaborate, particularly when my husband and I began to explore the joys of picnicking on our first visit to France together. This is not particularly surprising given that the word pique-nique dates to 17th century France. In any event, we would attend the local farmer’s market, select an assortment of bread, cheeses, meats and a bottle of wine before finding the perfect spot in which to partake of our meal. These pleasant memories set the stage for our future outings in parks, at polo events and elsewhere.


Consequently, today, picnics are a big part of our summer plans and I am always at the ready with my picnic backpack, picnic blanket and the aforementioned tiffin box. While I take great pleasure in the creation of a beautiful meal in a beautiful setting, your ideal picnic might simply be a blanket and baloney sandwiches. Neither one of is right, as long as we are both having a great time!

That being said, I do feel that any meal is elevated by the presence of wine and picnics are no exception. Seek out fresh whites, crisp rosés and bubbles of all shades as refreshing, food friendly and fun options to adorn one’s outdoor feast.

Here are some wonderful wine options to get you started!



WHITES
Veramonte Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Casablanca Valley, Chile, $11.99
From the cool Casablanca Valley in Chile, this wine offers up fresh herbal and citrus aromas, which persist on the palate with zippy acidity, medium body and good length. As an organic wine, it represents only a small percentage of Chilean vineyards that have sought out this designation.

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00
From the highly respected producer, Merry Edwards, this Sauvignon Blanc is a more concentrated option with rich fruit notes of pear and citrus along with an herbal character on the nose. It provides good acidity, is slightly riper than the 2018, with medium-to-full body and very long length. This is a pricier option than the others listed here, but is definitely worth the splurge.
For more on Merry Edwards, see these stories:
– In Pursuit of Pleasure, Promise and Pinot
– Making Merry for the Holidays

Vilarnau Brut Reserva NV, Cava, Spain, $14.99
Cava producer, Vilarnau, has been around since 1949 and is located in the of heart of Catalonia in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, just outside Barcelona. Its current labels pay homage to Antoni Gaudi, whose many masterpieces can be found in the city. Also an organic wine, this traditional blend of Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo, is aged over 15 months in bottle, with toasty, yeasty, apple notes on the nose and palate, good persistence of bubbles, and long length.

Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Extra Dry, Treviso, Italy, $13.00
Founded in 1960, this family-owned winery is now run by Giovanni Corvezzo, who was responsible for converting the vineyards to organic farming in 2013, and has since earned its organic certification in Italy. With a very fresh nose of cotton candy, pear and floral notes, this lovely sparkler is dry on palate, with good persistence of bubbles, vibrant acidity and long length.

ROSES
Domaine Bousquet Gaia Rosé 2020, Mendoza, Argentina, $20.00
While I had the pleasure of tasting wine with Anne Bousquet just before the pandemic, this is a new wine from the winery. Produced from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, the nose is redolent of raspberries and strawberries that persist on the dry palate, along with medium+ acidity, medium body and long length.

Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Rosé Extra Dry, Millesimato Treviso, Italy, $13.00
It’s official! Prosecco can now legally be produced as a rosé sparkling wine. Another organic and vegan option from Corvezzo, this wine offers up aromas of berries, cherry and peach, with beautiful freshness on the palate, and a gentle perlage, along with long length.

Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé Delicat NV, Cava, Spain, $15.99
From the same producer noted above, with its Gaudi-inspired label, this sparkling rosé is soon to be certified organic. A blend of 85% Garnacha and 15% Pinot Noir, the wine displays fresh floral and berry notes with a lovely dry, effervescent palate, and balanced acidity, culminating in long length.

If you desire your own very special picnic without doing all the work, check out Perfect Picnic.

Collio, A C of Shining Wines

Posted on by
Reply

I was recently invited to take part in a virtual tasting featuring the wines of Collio, an area I had had the pleasure of visiting in December 2010. With nearly a decade since that first introduction, I was eager to reacquaint myself with these wines. In addition to meeting with various winemakers on our trip, we had the opportunity to steep ourselves in the culture of the area. And, as we were reminded during the virtual event, it is this unique and varied culture that permeates the wines themselves. Of course, beyond the cultural influences, all wines are a direct result of the climatic conditions in which they are grown and Collio is no exception. Yet we were advised that, like an orchestra playing a symphony, the wines needed all of the instruments to fully shine.

Among our cultural endeavors, we toured the town of Aquileia, a city originally established by the Romans, who first cultivated grapes in the area. Presently a UNESCO World Heritage site, Aquileia’s Basilica, built in 1000 CE, had much of its history lost until they undertook renovations in 1909 and discovered an amazing 4th century mosaic floor hiding underneath the more modern structure.  

We also got a glimpse of the area’s war-torn history as we hiked along the mountain ridge of Sabotin, which served as an important part of the Isonza Front during WWI. Due to its topography, it was a key defensive point for the Austro-Hungarian army against the Italians in 1915 and 1916. As we trekked the rocky crest, I joked that if we fell off the mountain and died, we would be buried in either Italy or Slovenia, depending upon which side we fell. But, in all seriousness, this arbitrary border had kept families apart, pitting one against the other. Today, the Sabotin Peace Park honors those who fought and serves as a reminder of this historic period.

A further influence on Collio’s culture was the region’s roots in the Hapsburg empire. In fact, the area had been under Austrian rule until 1915 when it finally became part of Italy. This, coupled with its shared border with Slovenia, results in an interesting mix of cultures. Accordingly, local signage is often written in multiple languages – Italian, German and Slovene – and the cuisine is a blend of these national influences.

Nestled between the Adriatic Sea and the striking, Julian Alps, Collio is blessed with a moderate climate as the mountains protect the area from harsh winds, while its proximity to the sea makes it warmer than neighboring inland areas. Significant diurnal shifts ensure that the grapes retain their acidity while the soil imparts structure and minerality due to its composition of numerous layers of marl and sandstone (referred to as Ponca).

Part of the Friuli Venezia Giulia wine region, the C-shaped, Collio denomination is comprised of 7,000 hectares, of which 1,500 are devoted to viticulture. Within this small enclave, there are 350 wineries each growing an average of 2.5 hectares. Vines are grown exclusively on the hills (colli in Italian), with 17 different grapes cultivated. Primarily known for varietal, clean, complex and elegant white wines, which account for most of the production, Collio relies on both indigenous and international varieties.

The local Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit share a 2,000- year history, while the international grapes of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Bianco were imported to the area in the 19th century. Not surprisingly, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc have established a strong foothold here due to their overall popularity worldwide. In addition to the 17 varietally labeled wines permitted in the Collio DOC, there are two others: Collio Bianco and Collio Rosso for white and red blends, respectively.

Led by wine journalist Matteo Bellotto and Mitja Sirk, a local sommelier, the tasting featured an overview of the region as well as a guided tasting of six wines. As Matteo noted, it is through wine and food that the locals speak and they were excited to have these wines speak to us. Moreover, at the end of the event, Matteo shared that we had started as guests, but having had this experience together, we were now friends.

All of the wines we tasted were from the 2019 vintage. This vintage was a particularly good one given the lack of rain in September. Consequently, the wine producers did not have to rush to harvest the grapes, giving them a long maturation on the vine. In fact, the area is one of the rainiest, more often forcing winemakers to pick in August. Yet, despite the challenges that this wet weather brings, many Collio producers are committed to practicing organic viticulture.

As we turned our attention to the wines themselves, we were advised that it was a tradition to taste the Ribolla Gialla first, given its high acidity and higher alcohol compared to other local wines. Its freshness prepares the palate for what is to come.

Conti Formentini Ribolla Gialla 2019, Collio, Italy
One of the oldest producers in the area, the Formentini family purchased a castle in San Floriano del Collio in 1520 and has remained in the area ever since. This variety is often connected with orange wines, but is also produced as a white wine.

Tasting Note: Aromas of yellow plum and apple greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, along with high acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Ronco Bianchis Friulano 2019, Collio, Italy
This winery is under the ownership and direction of Giancarlo Palla and his sons, Alberto and Lorenzo. Its name is derived from “Ronco”, from the Friulan word “fianco, or side of a hill” and “Blanchis”, white, the color of its wines. Previously referred to as Tocai Friulano, now just Friulano, this indigenous grape is prone to producing high yields, yet it still produces well balanced wines.

Tasting Note: This wine displays distinct floral notes joined by pear. It is dry, with medium acidity, medium body, and flavors of peach, pear, and floral, culminating in long length with a bitter almond note in the finish.

Blazic Malvasia 2019, Collio, Italy
This family run winery has been producing wine since 1923. Also grown in Croatia and Slovenia, as a variety Malvasia requires more talent and patience on the part of the winemaker.

Tasting Note: Redolent of stone fruits, this dry wine offers up rich and ripe peach and herbal flavors, good acidity, full body, nice length and a citrus note in the finish.

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Pinot Grigio 2019, Collio, Italy
Established on land that was previously a monastery, Borgo Conventi was founded in 1975. It was purchased by the Folonari family in 2001 and was more recently (April 2019) acquired by the Moretti Polegato family who also owns Villa Sandi, a well-respected producer of Prosecco and Prosecco Superiore.

Matteo explained that Pinot Grigio can often be misunderstood. In Collio, it carries the identity of the terroir and is not an everyday wine as it is in other regions such as those from Alto Adige and Friuli. By way of illustration, Matteo depicted Pinot Grigio from Collio as the Beatles, while Pinot Grigio from elsewhere as Shakira.

Tasting Note: This dry wine displayed a lovely freshness and minerality, with medium+ acidity, medium to full body, and long length.


Toros Pinot Bianco 2019, Collio, Italy
With a long history in the area, the Toròs family first came to Novali in the early 20th century. Today, the estate is owned by Franco Toròs, who has focused his efforts on modern winemaking.

Matteo suggested that the region is just beginning to understand the potential of Pinot Bianco as it finds its own evolution in the terroir. As part of his signature in producing this variety, Franco always uses a small percentage (<20%) of oak in its production.

Tasting Note: With a slightly woody note on the nose, this dry wine offered up medium acidity, full body, a woody undercurrent along with apple and long length.

Polje Fantazija Collio Bianco 2019, Collio, Italy
The Sutter family has been producing wine since 1933, initially in Piave. They now have the Polje estate in Collio, which derives its name “from the characteristic local karst sinkholes.”

While the Collio Bianco DOC presently permits a blend of indigenous and international grapes (as in this one which brings together Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla and Sauvignon Blanc), this DOC will eventually be restricted to blends of indigenous varieties only.

Tasting Note: This wine has aromas of flowers and pineapple, while the use of wood in its production manifests as a toothpick characteristic on the full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco celebrates 60 years and looks forward to an even brighter future

Posted on by
Reply

Cantina Valle Isarco celebrates its 60th anniversary this year, but the winery is not resting on its laurels. Far from it. Rather, while it acknowledges its roots, it is looking to the future to further increase its quality. Among these efforts, the Cantina has recently revamped its logo and branding and hired a new consulting enologist.

Representing 135 families, this highly regarded cooperative is situated in the Valle Isarco, a subzone of Alto Adige and Italy’s northernmost winegrowing area. Here, in the heart of the Dolomites, vines are grown at 300-1,000 meters above sea level, on very steep slopes with a 60% gradient. Consequently, grapes must be hand harvested, resulting in a very labor-intensive production process.

Moreover, the high altitudes offer up very cold nights and cold winds, along with a wide diurnal variation, further adding to the challenges of harvest, which takes place from September through mid-October. This is not an easy task. But the benefits to such intense growing conditions are evident in the style of wines produced. Specifically, the small berry size (a consequence of the high altitude) yields wines with high concentration of flavor, while the cool climate maintains good acidity and salinity in the grapes. Overall, the wines are fresh, clean and clear with an acidic character. And this bright acidity remains even with aging.

As a very small wine region, Alto Adige accounts for only 0.8% of all Italian wine production with a total of 400 hectares planted. Of those, Cantina Valle Isarco is responsible for 150 of them. Most of these are small vineyards surrounding the homes of the individual members. While the vineyards are not certified organic, it is here that the children play in their respective backyards, running around through the vines. Accordingly, intervention is minimal and viticulture is as sustainable as possible.

Their vineyards are planted to 14 different grape varieties: 10 white varieties, totaling 98% of the winery’s production with the remaining 2% planted to four red varieties. Not surprisingly, given the region’s proximity to Germany and Austria, Alto Adige’s viticulture is heavily influenced by these two countries, especially in grape varieties grown, such as Kerner and Sylvaner. From those 14 varieties, Cantina Valle Isarco produces 28 different wines, among its Classic (entry level) and Premium ranges.

The premium wines include Aristos and Sabiona. More specifically, while Hannes Munter, resident enologist, manages all of the producers, for the Aristos wines, he pays closer attention with the selection. The Sabiona wines are produced from two single vineyards planted within the walls of the local monastery.

Among its past accomplishments, Cantina Valle Isarco rebuilt its winery 15 years ago, making considerable investments in technology and its wines continue to garner accolades (its Aristos Kerner was named a Top 20 Wine of the Year in 2016 by Decanter magazine). Yet, the young team, which includes Munter and General Manager, Armin Gratl, knew that they wanted to make significant splash as they celebrated this important milestone.

The new logo, which was launched with the 2020 vintage, gives more focus to the name of the valley with mountain and diamond imagery, and the new labels are clearer and easier to read. But, the more innovative move was the winery’s decision to collaborate with noted enologist Ricardo Cotarella. Gratl explained their choice in Cotarella, explaining that they wanted to bring in someone with an outside view and lots of experience, as well as someone with the same ambitions they have for the region.

When asked why he was interested in taking on this new consultancy, Ricardo Cotarella relished the opportunity presented to him, citing both his excitement at getting to work in the region for the first time and the challenge of improving the quality of wines that are already very good. He also looked forward to partnering with Armin and Hannes.

Moreover, he was also fascinated by the idea of working with Kerner, a grape he had only previously experienced in Japan. He admitted that, “A winemaker shouldn’t say ‘This is my favorite wine;” only the customer can make that declaration. But, he and Hannes really like the Kerner 2020 and, in fact, Cotarella confessed “I am falling in love with this varietal.”

A virtual seminar was held with members of the press and trade in mid-February, featuring six wines.  For the tasting, participants were presented with a study in two grapes, exploring different vintages, selections and microclimates. Starting with the Classic Kerner, we next tasted the Aristos and Sabiona versions before turning our attention to the analogous Sylvaner wines.

Interestingly, both of the Sabiona wines and the Aristos Sylvaner had spent some time in tonneaux, but it was with a light-handed approach to oak that added depth and elegance rather than an overtly woody flavor to the wines. In this regard, Cotarella made it clear that he uses wood in, not on the wine. Additionally, it depends on the vintage, adding that, “Oak is an opportunity, not a rule,” and he only uses it when the wine deserves the oak. With his “crush” on the Kerner 2020, he expects to treat the Aristos and Sabiona Kerner 2020 wines to some oak.

So what else does the future hold? Cotarella acknowledged that the wines of Cantina Valle Isaro from yesterday were excellent; its wines from today are excellent. As he mused on next steps, he noted that he was very optimistic. “We have everything – the climate, soil, people, grapes and technology in the winery,” he said. “I am not sure what the improvement will be, but be patient, this is my promise.” These are already extraordinary wines; I am sure our patience will be well rewarded.

Cantina Valle Isarco Kerner 2020, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions : Fresh, exotic spice and good fruit.
Tasting Note: Dry, with high acidity, medium body, aromas and flavors of apple, salinity, minerality, floral, plum, spice and very long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Kerner 2019, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: A richer expression of the variety with fuller body.
Tasting Note: An intense nose of apple, quince, pear, with full body, high acidity and very long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Sabiona Kerner 2018, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: An elegant and complex wine, with careful use of oak.
Tasting Note: Light oak and smoke on nose, with bright acidity, medium+ body, very mineral, with richness and long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Sylvaner 2020, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: Fresh and clean with a purity of fruit.
Tasting Note: Aromas of rich fruit, quince, green apple greet the nose joined by minerality and freshness on the medium-bodied palate with long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Sylvaner 2019, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: Richer, with more concentration and complexity.
Tasting Note: Less ripe fruit on nose, with peaches, minerality and salinity, along with
high acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Sabiona Sylvaner 2018, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: Elegant depth and concentration due to oak and age.
Tasting Note: Showing nice development, with high acidity and medium+ body and notes of apricot, salinity and a candied note in finish, culminating in very long length.


Winery, vineyard and principal images courtesy of Cantina Valle Isarco.