It’s the duck days of summer. It’s been super hot and then…not! But, if you are a lucky duck, you’ve got Duck Pond Cellars’ wines in your glass. In particular, their Natural Path Production wines perfectly hit the spot whether it’s 70F or 90F.
The Dundee, Oregon-based winery was founded in 1993 and has always been committed to sustainability. Its grapes are organically farmed and hand-harvested, with continued attention to detail once they reach the winery. More recently, they have become involved in the Clean Label Project, a non-profit organization “whose mission is to bring truth and transparency to food and consumer product labeling.”
Launched under the Natural Path Production line, Duck Pond’s first wines were certified by this organization with the 2020 vintage, making them the first wines in America to receive this certification.
In adherence to the certification program, the ingredients are clearly stated on the label. Additionally, they testify to low sulfite use (<=100 PPM), vegan-only fining agents and the non-use of Glyphosate and Neonicotinoid pesticides.
Equally important to Duck Pond’s focus on natural production, is that these wines are well made and well-priced, ranging from $15-$19 per bottle (winery prices; might be higher at your local wine shop). As of now, there are four wines in the Natural Path line up: Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Rose (not tasted) and Pinot Noir.
Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Pinot Gris 2022, Willamette Valley (OR), USA, $16.00 On the nose, this wine displays notes of tangerine and smoke, which persist on the dry palate. The wine is quite luscious, with bright acidity, medium body and long length.
Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Chardonnay 2021, Oregon, USA, $15.00 This wine offers up melon and butter aromas and flavors, and an oak undercurrent, with medium acidity, medium plus body, and long length. It was a crowd pleaser at a recent gathering of friends.
Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Pinot Noir 2021, Oregon, USA, $19.00 Fresh aromas of cherry and raspberry greet the nose. The dry palate provides ripe black cherries, herbs, and an earthy undercurrent, with medium plus acidity, medium plus body and medium plus length. Really lovely.
Where were you 10 years ago? Some days I have trouble remembering where I was 10 hours ago (let alone 10 years), but in this case, about 10 days ago, I had the distinct pleasure of celebrating Coravin’s 10th anniversary with founder, Greg Lambrecht. It was a wonderful evening spending time with the intelligent and personable Lambrecht as we learned about the genesis of this unique wine device, designed to preserve the integrity of an “open” bottle of wine.
As an inventor and MIT-trained physicist, Lambrecht develops medical devices for spinal injuries through his company, Intrinsic Therapeutics, Inc. When one has such capacity, it’s hard not to use those same skills to solve your own “problems”.
His “problem”? How to enjoy high quality wine in a single serving without negatively impacting the rest of the bottle/wine (once a wine is opened and has exposure to air/oxygen, it will eventually begin to oxidize). The situation was exacerbated when his wife became pregnant and gave up drinking. A devout, long-time wine aficionado (Lambrecht first fell in love with wine at age 16 on a trip to the Napa Valley), he wanted to be able to enjoy a glass or two with dinner. Thus, he sought to address the problem for his own daily enjoyment.
His initial thoughts on how to build a better mouse trap (such as mimicking tools like the Vacuvin) didn’t seem to yield the correct solution. Thus, while he felt that he needed a better way to solve this conundrum, it wasn’t until he came upon the key thought – to not open the bottle – that idea for Coravin came about.
The first prototype debuted in 1999 and was dubbed the “mosquito” by his young son. Prototype 1.5 included the all-important regulator, which he quickly discovered was essential due to the extreme pressure of the gases (argon or nitrogen) being pumped into the bottle to replace the lost (aka drink) wine.
It took 14 iterations to get it right. But, despite the time and energy invested in these iterations, it wasn’t until 2011 that he founded the company, Coravin, recognizing that it could become a commercial product able to solve the same issue for other people. The Coravin product was officially launched in 2013.
Building on that success, his latest product is Vinitas, which came about as a request from wine director, Daniel Johannes during the Pandemic. Johannes wanted to be able to send out samples of high-end wines for his La Paulee event since meeting in person wasn’t an option. Lambrecht took on the challenge, but it took a full three years to develop the tool. The resulting machine breaks down the volume of a bottle of wine into fractions, while ensuring that the wine remains unharmed by exposure to air. Lambrecht joked it is the “smallest bottling line”.
While not ready in time to address Johannes’ quandary over La Paulee, Vinitas is useful for wineries and wine stores to permit the customer to more easily sample wine with a smaller commitment and is currently available to be leased.
Today, Coravin is available in 60 different countries and Lambrecht now spends only 50% of his time in medical devices development, traveling worldwide to promote his vinous inventions.
Not surprisingly, as someone who invents devices that improve people’s health, Lambrecht has always been motivated by the desire to positively influence people’s lives. Consequently, he is extremely gratified by the positive impact that Coravin has had on the wine world and in the way that people drink wine. is also proud to be a disrupter and shared stories of how he was initially met with skepticism or even outright disdain. In this regard, the sommelier of a prestigious German restaurant refused to take a meeting with him and the owner of a French chateau threatened to thwart his product by the insertion of a metal strip under the capsule. Both of whom eventually saw Coravin’s benign benefit. Similarly, wine critic Robert Parker made it clear that he had no interest in “gadgets” yet by the end of the meal he shared with Lambrecht, he was a true convert.
Which brings me back to the Coravin celebration with Lambrecht at Le Pavillion restaurant in New York City, at which we tasted a 2001 Bordeaux, which had been “opened” 19 years ago under Coravin. It was still very enjoyable and showed no signs of oxidation. It was quite a triumph, even to Lambrecht who had only previously anticipated a 15-year window. Equally impressive, if not more so, we tasted Rare Champagne 2008, which had been opened under Coravin for two weeks and was still very effervescent, displaying small, persistent bubbles for over an hour in my glass!
Coravin is not particularly intended for the average consumer to purchase directly (although if you have the means, I am sure they would be happy to sell it to you). Rather, the average consumer can certainly benefit from Coravin by having the opportunity to taste high end wines at restaurants and wine bars without having to invest in an entire bottle.
So, on the arrival of Coravin’s anniversary, I invite you to raise a glass and toast the ingenuity of a wine-obsessed physicist. Cheers to Lambrecht and cheers to Coravin!
Summertime… and the living is easy (or at least less encumbered compared to winter – no hats, gloves or scarves or bulky winter coats).
The Summer Solstice is upon us, and, although the weather doesn’t quite feel like it, it is indeed summertime and the season for barbecues, picnics and other outdoor endeavors. It’s a great time to gravitate towards fresh whites, lighter reds and the ubiquitous roses. Sparkling wines are also a fabulous option for this time of year (check out my story on Moscato d’Asti).
Villa Maria EarthGarden Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, New Zealand, $20.00 From one of my favorite NZ producers, this wine is produced as a blend of 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes harvested from several vineyards, all of which are sustainably grown. What that means is that the vineyards are free from synthetic pesticides and herbicides and are planted with a plethora of wildflowers to attract bees and beneficial insects. The nose offers up pronounced aromas of grapefruit and a slight herbal note. The medium bodied palate is fresh and bright, with grapefruit, herbs and the addition of lime, culminating in long length.
Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2021, Barossa Valley, Australia, $14.00 This wine underwent wild fermentation and lees aging, both of which add depth and complexity to the wine. With distinct floral, tangerine and tropical fruit aromas on the nose, the full bodied palate provides good acidity, joined by flavors of ginger and citrus, with long length.
C’Est La Vie Pinot Noir Syrah 2020, Vin de Pays, France, $13.00 From Burgundian producer, Albert Bichot, this red blend (60% Pinot Noir and 40% Syrah) is a fresh and lively, easy drinking wine that’s perfect for a picnic or barbecue. With aromas of spice, earth, smoke and berries, it is dry, yet ripe, on the palate with medium+ acidity, medium+ body and medium+ length.
I had the pleasure of serving as a juror for the 11th annual International Competition Grenaches du Monde. As such, I tasted through 80 wine samples featuring the Grenacha, aka Garnacha, grape, in all of its guises: white, rosé, red, and fortified sweet wines. This grape variety is capable of creating world class wines and, from the blind samples I tasted, it was clear that there is a lot of wonderful wine being produced and expertly showcasing this great grape.
Organized by the Asociación Garnacha Origen of Spain and the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Roussillon/ CIVR of France, this year’s competition was held outside of Europe for this very first time. It featured over 800 Garnacha/Grenache wines from producers across France, Spain, Italy, and the US, which were judged by a panel of 80 U.S. wine industry jurors, including sommeliers, media, distributors, importers, and influencers.
Wines were judged in early to mid-June, with the results announced this week. A total of 233 wines of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and 35 wines from the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) earned medals.
What’s your vice? For Malek Amrani and his wife, Tori Greenberg, the answer is wine. A former sales professional for Moet Hennessy and Diageo, Malek has a keen understanding of the wine world and consumer preferences. He also counts pizza and triathlons among his “moral faults”, while Tori’s other vices include fashion, sleep and rose.
The pair always dreamed of owning their own winery and now they do. In fact, while they launched The Vice several years ago, they recently opened a permanent location in St. Helena in the Napa Valley, further cementing their dream.
On the joint holidays of National Wine Day and National Chardonnay Day, Malek hosted a virtual tasting with members of the media to celebrate the opening as well as the release of their 100th wine. As a self-defined “luxury wine brand,” the wines are produced in small, numbered batches.
Primarily focused on Napa Valley terroir, The Vice’s mission is to make exceptional wines accessible. In pursuit of this goal, Malek currently works with 18 different varieties, sourced from 14 of Napa’s 16 AVAs. Their white label wines are their house tier, while the black label is reserved for single vineyard wines.
Among the most recent batches is the aforementioned 100th wine. Aptly named The Napa Dream (and also referred to as Batch #100), it is a Chardonnay sourced from a Certified Napa Green vineyard situated “at the far eastern edge of Los Carneros AVA”. It spent 30 months in new French Oak barrels.
TASTING NOTES
The Vice The Napa Dream Batch #100 Chardonnay 2020, Los Carneros (CA), USA, $46.00 This wine is deep golden yellow with nutty, butterscotch aromas that persist on the dry, rich full-bodied palate. It has bright acidity and flavors of roasted nuts, caramel, citrus and minerality, culminating in long length. Lovely and complex.
The Vice Orange of Viognier ‘Brooklynites 6.0’ 2022, California, USA, $33.00 With Viognier grapes sourced from Napa’s Oak Knoll District and Brentwood, Contra Costa, this wine brings together two different climates and thus a diversity of expression. It offers up floral and peach aromas, which persist on the palate with fresh acidity, medium body and long length. It is really refreshing, easy to drink (too easy!?!) and food friendly.
The Vice The OG, Cabernet Franc 2021, Los Carneros (CA), USA, $54.00 As Malek shared at the event, Cabernet Franc is fast becoming the hottest grape in Napa Valley (more so than Cabernet Sauvignon). Leafy and cranberry aromas greet the nose, with a dry palate, bright acidity, medium+ body and flavors of wet leaves and plum, with long length. Powerful, yet balanced.
Located in Italy’s Lombardy region, Oltrepo Pavese gets its name from its location on the “other side” of the Po River, the longest in Italy. Home to over 220 indigenous grape varieties, this region is extremely diverse, producing wines that range from still and sparkling, to dry and sweet and everything in between. Additionally, it’s shared borders with the regions of Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna and Liguria have exerted their influence on the resulting wines as well.
As the third largest grower of Pinot Noir (lagging only behind Burgundy and Champagne), Pinot in its many guises is well represented here. Known by the Italian Pinot Nero, the grape is made into sparkling, white and red wines. Pinot Grigio is also widely planted. Interestingly, due to Lombardy’s historic ties to the Savoy kingdom, Riesling is also found in its vineyards.
The diversity is further reflected in its many different sub-denominations. For example, there are four alone just for Metodo Classico sparkling wines. Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese refers to a lightly sparkling (frizzante) red wine produced from a minimum of 85% Croatina, supplemented with up to 15% of Barbera, Ughetta, and/or Uva Rara. Finally, the unusually titled Sangue di Giuda is named for the legend that Judas came back to life to atone for his betrayal of Jesus, ultimately helping to end an epidemic in the vineyards. This sweet red can be lightly or fully sparkling and may be produced from 25-65% Barbera, 25-65% Croatina, with the remainder being Uva Rara, Ughetta and/or Pinot Nero, up to a maximum of 45%.
Thus, it was a fun and festive introduction to these wines at Sottocasa, an authentic thin-crust pizza restaurant in Harlem, which was the site for an informal wine dinner. Our meal featured an assortment of Oltrepo Pavese wines paired with a selection of salads, pizzas and people. Yet, the informal nature of the event did not mean that the wines were any less complex or of low quality. In fact, they were quite delicious and easy to pair with both the savory and sweet dishes on the crowded table.
Moreover, the diversity of vinous flavors, coupled with the hodge podge of people and food, was the perfect proving ground for Thanksgiving, which we will celebrate in the U.S. this week. While Oltrepo Pavese may be situated on the other side of the Po, this time of year in the U.S. we are metaphorically heading “Over the river and into the woods… to grandmother’s house…” to celebrate Thanksgiving with family, friends or both, with our own assortment of culinary traditions on the table.
The sparkling, white and red wines of Oltrepo Pavese should be a welcome addition to your feast throughout the holiday season and beyond with their flexible, food-friendly nature.
TASTING NOTES
The following wines were those we tasted at Sottacasa, but you can search out whatever Oltrepo Pavese are available at your local wine store.
Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021 100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks This was my preference among the Pinot Grigios, but they were all quite good.
Ca di Frara Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021 100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks
Ca Montebello Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pinot Nero Vinificato in Bianco 2021, $25 100% Pinot Nero. Vinified as a white wine, this Pinot was extremely fresh and lively, light bodied, really beautiful and super easy to drink. It was a crowd favorite at our meal.
Castello di Luzzano Sommossa Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021, $23 100% Croatina. This dry, sparkling red, was produced using the tank method, with raspberries and blackberries, and long length.
Losito & Guarini Giovannella Fugazza Bonarda Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC C’Era Una Volta NV, $20 100% Croatina, tank method.
Dino Torti Oltrepo Pavese DOC Barbera Route 66, 2019, $25 100% Barbera, aged in Fench barrique for 18 months. I didn’t take good notes, but I did enjoy this fresh, medium-bodied red.
Tenuta Travaglino Pinot Nero Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pernero 2021 100% Pinot Nero, tank fermentation, 6 months aging on the lees. A light-bodied red, with good cherry fruit, a hint of herbaceousness and lively acidity.
Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Sangue di Guida Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021 Croatina, Uva Rara, Barbera, field blend, Martinotti Method. This off dry, red sparkling wine was lovely and fresh and a good pairing with dessert.
With her very apt metaphor, at the recent Naturally Bordeaux event, Mary Gorman-McAdams, MW, explained that big ships are hard to change course, but, with time, they do make the transformation. Similarly, Bordeaux, which is the largest quality wine region in France, has finally made a turn of its own with its more recent embrace of sustainable agriculture. Now that Bordeaux is moving in this new direction, it has been full steam ahead.
Consequently, Bordeaux has significantly increased its acreage of organic vineyards, which, as reported by James Lawther, MW currently stands at 34,333 acres. He further noted that this figure, when added to the biodynamically-certified acreage, accounts for 14% of the region’s vineyards.
Moreover, Mary shared that there has been a collective focus throughout the region on implementing the new Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) certification, a three-tiered system that was launched in France in 2001. This program “encourages farms and vineyards to focus on increasing biodiversity, decreasing the negative environmental impact of their phyto-sanitary strategy (i.e., measures for the control of plant diseases, reducing the use of pesticides and fungicides), managing their fertilizer inputs, and improving water management.” ~Discover Sustainable Wine
The HVE program has been whole-heartedly adopted by the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux which plans to have 100% compliance among Bordeaux producers by 2030. Early adopters, the Cru Bourgeois du Médoc mandated that each chateau must have achieved at least minimum level HVE certification requirements as part of the application process to be considered for Cru Bourgeois status. Lawther advised that it has also been implemented as a requirement by the St.-Emilion appellation. Overall, the Bordelais are taking a holistic picture, including measures that address corporate responsibility.
Other changes in the region include not only an increase in rosé production, but a shift in its approach to producing these wines. To this end, rosé now makes up 4% of Bordeaux’s production and producers are making rosé on purpose these days. Accordingly, today’s wines utilize direct press production instead of the saignée method, which had previously been implemented primarily as a way to beef up the reds. For the most part, the resulting rosé wine made in this manner was an afterthought.
I recently had the pleasure of being introduced (or in one case, reintroduced) to three Bordeaux producers who are actively engaged in organic viticulture at the Naturally Bordeaux event, which was held at Clay Restaurant in New York city’s Harlem neighborhood. Clay was chosen because it is farm-to-table, serving only seasonal, locally-sourced products on its menu. Thus, it was the perfect setting for a dinner featuring sustainable Bordeaux wines.
The wines showed beautifully, providing the opportunity to taste white, rosé and red wines from a variety of vintages. They say the proof is in the pudding and it was clear from this tasting that these are fabulous, well-made wines that you can feel good about drinking given their commitment to the environment. And Clay’s chocolate budino (an Italian pudding) (as well as the entire meal) was fantastic too!
Chateau Fourcas Hosten Owned by two brothers, Chateau Fourcas-Hosten has a long history on the Left Bank and has been focused on organics and sustainability for the past decade. They achieved HVE3 certification in 2017 and have taken the further step to convert their vines to organic viticulture, starting first with their whites and then expanding to their reds. Full certification of their 50 hectares was received in 2021. Of course, their first goal is to make good wines, and, in this manner, they have recognized the need to adapt the right variety to the right terroir. They have also made investments in the winery as well.
Chateau La Dauphine Situated on the Right Bank, this historic chateau comprises 160 acres of vineyards with a mix of limestone, clay and molasse soils. The property itself dates to the late 1600s, with a more modern history dating to 2001 when the Halley family purchased the estate and invested 10 million Euros to significantly improve the land and winery. Chateau de la Dauphine earned organic certification in 2015, the same year that the property was sold to the Labrune family. It has since added biodynamic methods as well. Among other changes in the vineyards, they have been increasing their plantings of Cabernet Franc due to their soil types as well as due to climate change.
Chateau Jean Faure This St.-Emilion Grand Cru Classé producer can trace its origins to a deed dated 1526. It has, of course, changed hands numerous times since then, with its latest acquisition in 2004, when it was purchased by Anne and Olivier Decelle. Their first certified organic vintage was 2017. Since 2020, they have engaged in biodynamic practices and will earn full certification from Biodyvin in 2023. Extensive research has been done on the estate’s predominantly clay terroir, which has always been heavily planted to Cabernet Franc (60%). This will prove to be even more useful as temperatures rise, given that Cabernet Franc has a longer maturity than Merlot.
MENU & TASTING NOTES
First course: Radicchio, spiced walnut, aged balsamic, parmigiano
Chateau Fourcas Hosten Blanc 2020, Listrac-Medoc, Bordeaux Planted on limestone soils, which helps preserve the beautiful acidity, this wine is a blend of 67% Sauvignon Blanc, 18% Sauvignon Gris, and 15% Semillon. It offers up herbal and citrus aromas on the nose, giving way to riper pineapple on the bright palate, culminating with long length.
Chateau La Dauphine Rosé 2021, Fronsac, Bordeaux This very pale hued rosé brings together 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, grown on a plot earmarked specifically for the production of rosé. Instead of a maceration, they use a pneumatic press to extract the juice and a touch of color. This wine was first made in 2016, when Monsiur Labrune decided to produce a rosé especially for his wife. With slight herbs and delicate strawberry and melon fruit, the palate is vibrant with a hint of salinity and long length.
Main course: Confit duck leg, carrot, smoked farro, collard greens, sumac Side dishes: Mushrooms with thyme and shallot | Duck fat potatoes, with parsley and parmigiano
Chateau Fourcas Hosten 2018, Listrac-Medoc, Bordeaux This blend of 58% Merlot, 38.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc displays plum, other black fruit, oak and vanilla, with firm ripe tannins and good length.
Chateau Jean Faure 2015, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, St.-Emilion, Bordeaux Produced with 50% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot and 5% Malbec from a very sunny vintage, this wine offered up ripe, spicy, red fruit, along with freshness, culminating in long length.
Chateau La Dauphine 2012, Fronsac, Bordeaux A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, this is beautifully developed with black and red fruit, ripe tannins, and very long length.
Chateau Jean Faure 2010, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, St.-Emilion, Bordeaux Bring together the same blend as the 2015 vintage, this wine was still quite fresh despite its age. Showing some development, with aromas and flavors of blackberry, herbs, oak, and vanilla, with ripe tannins and long length.
Already know your South American ABC’s? Now it’s time to get to know U!
You are likely very familiar with wines from Argentina, Brazil and Chile, but if you are not aware of the wines from Uruguay, you are not alone. Yet, this oversight is worth correcting, especially given the country’s emphasis on further improving quality and care in crafting their wines. Moreover, its winemakers have learned to tame the tannins in its home-spun grape, Tannat, producing a plethora of styles to meet a range of palate preferences.
Although Uruguay is the second smallest country in South America, nestled between Argentina and Brazil, it has a lot of claims to fame. Most notably, Uruguay was the first country to host the World Cup. In addition to sharing a wine heritage with its neighbors, Uruguay also gives them a run for their money rivaling Argentina in tango and steak and Brazil with the longest carnival in the world at 50 days long. Perhaps most impressive, Uruguay boasts a 99% literacy rate and the country has given every school child a laptop since 2009.
Despite a less obvious presence on the world wine stage, Uruguay has been making wine since 1720s, and saw significant growth in the 1800s. However, it wasn’t until the 1990s that the country began to focus on premium wines, with the planting of the more noble, European grape varieties.
Climatically, Uruguay is home to a maritime climate, such as that of Bordeaux and Galicia. Within this climatic condition, the country comprises 1200 vineyards and 160 wineries. Today’s plantings total 12,000 acres and the land is composed of 99 different varieties of soil. The majority of production (75%) centers in two main regions along the coast: Canelones and Montevideo (shaded in yellow in the map below). Here, the vines are planted on gently sloping hillsides and, tend to be older, due to the lengthier history of viticulture in the region.
Similarly, the industry is seeking out new areas for planting such as Maldonado (shaded in blue), which is also coastal, but with granite soils. Another frontier area is Rivera (shared in gray), in the north, near the border of Brazil, with a distinctly more continental climate thanks to its location further inland.
For what little reputation Uruguay does have, it is perhaps most well-known and regarded for Tannat. This highly tannic variety of French origin was first planted in Uruguay in the 1860s, with 3,950 acres currently planted. With its thick skin, Tannat is less susceptible to disease, which makes it a good option to combat the country’s humid climate.
Yet, beyond the climate-conducive nature of Tannat, the Uruguayans are quick to note that with the preponderance of cows in the country, they make wine to eat with meat. In fact, one producer proclaimed, “We eat the cows or we will be eaten by them.” NB: Cows outnumber people 4 to 1. For this reason, they like to think that, “Tannat chose us,” rather than the other way around. Thus, Tannat’s high tannin content, which reacts favorably with the protein in steak, provides another reason for Tannat to be such an important grape for the country.
Regardless of the reason for Tannat’s initial take-off, it is clear that Uruguayan winemakers have become very adept at handling Tannat and, in particular, have learned to expertly manage those high tannins. The tannins are still generally intense and structural, yet they are more balanced. Plus, today’s Tannat wines offer a variety of styles from which the consumer can choose.
In fact, in a recent tasting at City Winery, members of the press and trade had a unique opportunity to taste through nine different Tannat wines (including a Tannat-based vermouth), which clearly illustrated the diversity being produced right now. Moreover, tasting through an assortment of varietal wines as well as blends revealed how the current crop of winemakers has implemented their experience and expertise to produce high-end wines and provided a showcase of what Tannat can truly do.
Aside from Tannat, Uruguay is home to other French varieties, including: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, as well as Marselan, Syrah and Pinot Noir. Although whites comprise a much smaller percentage of total plantings, Sauvignon Blanc is the 8th most planted variety, Chardonnay is ninth and Albarino comes in at number 10.
Today’s producers run the gamut from historic family properties to experimental newcomers and everything in between, all of whom are embracing this latest chapter of Uruguay’s vinous history. There are some very interesting and exciting wines being exported to the U.S. and most of them are well priced. If you don’t know Uruguayan wines, now is the time to get to know them.
The Uruguayan masterclass at City Winery was led by award-winning wine journalist, Amanda Barnes, author of the The South America Wine Guide, joined above by a representative from Cerro Chapeu winery.
TASTING NOTES
Cerro Chapeu Castel Pujol Folklore Petillant Naturel 2022, Rivera, Uruguay Planted in the early 1970s, there are only two wineries in this tiny region, bordering Brazil. Produced in the Ancestral Method, this sparkling wine is a blend of 80% Trebbiano and 20% Malvasia. It is lightly sparkling, with nice citrus fruit, minerality, and long length.
Familia Traversa Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Montevideo, Uruguay The Traversa family hails from the Veneto in Italy, emigrating to Uruguay in 1904. In 1937, they purchased land in Montevideo and established the winery in 1956. This Sauvignon Blanc is treated to some barrel fermentation, giving it more weight and presence on the plate. It is very fresh, with a slight wood note, medium bodied, with mineral and citrus on the palate.
Marichal Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Canelones, Uruguay Founded in 1916, the Marichal brothers are members of the 4th generation to run the family business. They shifted their focus to fine wine in 2002 and have been improving quality ever wine. Compared to the Traversa Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is more herbal, with more tropical fruit.
Cerro del Toro Albarino Sobre Lias 2021, Maldonado, Uruguay This wine project is run by a Japanese businessman, who bought the land in the late 1980s. The winery itself was started in 2015 and comprises 70 acres. The wine spends some time sur lie. Aromas of apple and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate, with high acidity, medium body and long length.
Los Cerros de San Juan Lahusen Riesling 2020, Colonia, Uruguay Established in 1854 by the Lahusen family from Germany, this is the oldest winery in Uruguay. The vines are planted on rocky soils and the wine was fermented in clay amphora. This Riesling shows lots of freshness with lime and minerality along with long length.
Antigua Bodega Bella Donna Tannat 2020, Canelones, Uruguay Since 1928, this Canelones-based winery has been family owned and female led, with the 6th generation currently at the helm. This Tannat is produced in a fresh, unoaked style with berries, black fruits, medium body, good acidity and long length.
Vina Progreso overground (revolution) Tannat 2020, Canelones, Uruguay Well respected winemaker, Gabriel Pisano has been exploring numerous projects since 2009 and established Vina Progreso as his “Experimental Winery” upon his return home to Uruguay. Fresh, with lively acidity, this Tannat is slightly reminiscent of Beaujolais, with light tannins and bright, red fruit aromas and flavors.
Artesana Devocion 2020, Canelones, Uruguay This boutique winery in Las Brujas was co-founded by Californian and Uruguayan winemakers, which explains why they grow Zinfandel in addition to Cabernet Franc, Tannat and Merlot and use a combination of both French and American oak. This blend of Cabernet Franc, Tannat and Merlot shows juicy red and black fruit. It is weighty, complex, and nicely balanced with ripe, firm tannins, good acidity, full body and long length.
Bracco Bosca Gran Ombu Cabernet Franc 2021, Atlantida, Uruguay Situated in Atlantida, a coastal area located just 8km from the sea, this winery was started in 2005, A member of the 5th generation of her Italian-heritage family (they are originally from Piedmont), Fabiana came back to the winery six years ago to take the lead. One of their top wines, the Gran Ombu Cabernet Franc spends ten months in New French oak and displays aromas and flavors of dried and fresh herbs, mulberry and cranberry, with good acidity and length.
Alto de la Ballena Tannat Viognier 2018, Maldonado, Uruguay The husband-and-wife owners of Alto de la Ballena have no family background in the wine industry, but simply wanted to seek out new areas (Maldonado) and pioneer new wines, getting their start in 2001. This wine takes its cue from the Northern Rhone, where the white variety, Viognier, is added to the red grape, Syrah. In this case, Tannat stands in for Syrah. With dark red fruit, dried herbs and vanilla on the nose and palate, the fruit is ripe yet restrained, culminating in long length.
Montes Toscanini Gran Tannat Premium 2019, Canelones, Uruguay In 1894, the family arrived from Geneva, eventually establishing the winery in 1979 in Canelones. Today, the 4th generation of the family is actively involved in the business. They only produce this specific wine in the best years, and from the best parcels. Offering up intense, firm, yet ripe tannins, this wine is well structured with long length, showing black fruit, oak, vanilla.
Familia Deicas Preludio Tinto 2016, Canelones, Uruguay This historic winery was purchased in 1979 and most recently established in 2000. This is a barrel select wine, which is a blend of Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Marselan. The selection is made by a large committee of family members after the wine has been aged for 24 months in oak barrels. It is redolent of red and black fruits and oak, with ripe tannins, good acidity, full body and long length.
Bouza Monte vide eu 2020, Montevideo, Uruguay Founded in 1999, the owners have been pioneers in new regions and with Albarino and are classic car enthusiasts. Bringing together 55% Tannat, 27% Merlot, and 18% Tempranillo, this wine takes its name from a Portuguese phrase, and has a sweet attack, with fresh, ripe fruit, violets, and oak. The full-bodied wine has firm tannins and long length.
Bodega Garzon Balasto 2018, Maldonado, Uruguay Bodega Garzon was established in 2009 in Maldonado by Argentine oil billionaire Alejandro Bulgheroni, in conjunction with an Italian wine consultant, Alberto Antonini. With a tribute to the terroir of decomposed granite soil and a strong emphasis on sustainability, the owners are more excited about their Silver LEED certification than any wine awards they may have won, which says a lot considering that the winery won Wine Enthusiast’s Wine Star Award for Best New World Winery in 2018. A blend of 45% Tannat, 25% Cabernet Franc, 18% Petit Verdot, and 12% Marselan, this wine is aged in untoasted botti, and offers up black fruit, berries and coffee, with full body and firm tannins. It is quite powerful, yet balanced and complex.
Basta Spirit Vermut Flores Rose NV, Uruguay An artisanal vermouth collaboration produced from Canelones-sourced grapes, this project started in 2019. With a tradition from Italy and Spain, interest in vermouth has been growing among consumers in Uruguay. There are four different flowers included in the 27-ingredient, botanical recipe. It starts with a base of Tannat rose. It is very fresh and lively.
Nestled in the south of France between the French Riviera and the region of Roussillon, the wines of Languedoc are impressive as well as both food and wallet friendly. If these are not on your radar, they should be given their diversity and sheer delight!
I recently had the pleasure of tasting through a selection of Languedoc wines in a guided tasting with Master Sommelier and owner of Corkbuzz, Laura Maniac. Each wine was beautifully (and deliciously) paired with a small bite, underscoring the ease with which these wines pair with a wide range of cuisine. After our time with Laura, we were led on a brief culinary tour of the Chelsea Market, becoming familiar with other vendors in the venue and the opportunity to sample a few more glasses of Languedoc.
Languedoc’s sunny, Mediterranean climate is tempered with cooling breezes and warm winds, which results in ripe fruit that retains its bright acidity. Thanks to the area’s dry nature, the region has one of the largest organic productions in France with over 30% of producers practicing organic viticulture; another 27% are in progress of converting from conventional practices. In fact, Languedoc launched the world’s first all organic expo — Millesime Bio — in 1993. Additionally, many producers are embracing biodynamics as well. And, with a strong research emphasis on viticulture, centered at L’INRA in Montpellier, the region is well equipped to handle climate change. Moreover, today, the area is home to a quiet revolution as winemakers from elsewhere in France are feeling the pull to make high quality wine within its borders.
Yet, Languedoc is not part of some passing fad. The region boasts 2500 years of wine making history and also lays claim to the discovery of fortification (thanks to Arnaud de Villeneuve in 1285) and sparkling wine production (in 1544 with the creation of Blanquette de Limoux).
The 90,000+ acres of vineyards are planted to 26 different grape varieties, with the majority (59%) of wine production given over to red wine. The balance is equally split among rosé and white wines. Within the vast acreage, there are 20 different appellations within Languedoc, but producers can also choose to bottle their wine under the broader Languedoc AOP. Regardless of the appellation, the wines coming from the region include everyday, inexpensive options, but also collectibles that are showing that this is a region capable of producing at the very top levels.
During the Languedoc event, the wines were custom paired by Chef Yovet Calvario of Corkbuzz; David Seigal, Culinary Director of Lobster Place; and Pablo Lopez, Chef Charcutier of Dickson’s Farmstand Meats.
We started off the tasting with a lusciously aged white wine served with lemon butter shrimp, matching the decadent and rich nature of both the wine and the food. The next bite was arancini with mushrooms, which paired well with a fresh, fruity red. Ricotta crostini (using Laura’s grandmother’s recipe for homemade ricotta) showed spectacularly with a more robust red. The next set of reds went well with an eggplant caponata dish, meatballs in a tomato sauce and chimichurri steak.
At Lobster Place, which has been in business for 45 years, we enjoyed raw oysters and grilled shrimp, coupled with a fresh white and a fruit-forward rosé, respectively. Then, at Dickson’s, we had the pleasure of seeing how the range of charcuterie brought out the flavors of the wine — a pale rosé and an intense red.
TASTING NOTES
CORKBUZZ Domaine Les Aurelles, Aurel Blanc 2013, Languedoc, France, $80.00 There are two ex-Bordeaux winemakers behind this wine, which is produced from 100% Roussanne and provides a perfect example of an age-worthy white from this region. Aromas of hazelnut, beeswax and pineapple greet the nose and persist on the dry palate. It is ripe and rich, with good acidity and notes of honey in the long finish.
Cave de Roquebrun, Chemin des Olivettes 2020, Languedoc, France, $13.00 Established in 1967, the Cave de Roquebrun co-op represents 70 winegrowers. This wine brings together 45% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre and 10% Cinsault and displays lots of fresh, red fruit with garrigue/dried herbs, with lavender and pepper especially in finish.
Domaine d’Aupilhac, Lou Maset 2019, Languedoc, France, $23.00 Named for an old, stone hut found in the vineyards of this biodynamic producer, the Lou Maset is intense and angular with fresh, lifted black fruit. A blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, 10% Carignan, 5% Syrah, and 5% Alicante Bouchet, it is quite tannic, with lingering notes of dried orange peel, pepper and herbs.
Jeff Carrel, Les Darons 2019, Languedoc, $15.00 Named “Les Darons” which is an affectionate term used in Parisian suburbs for one’s parents, this is a blend of 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 5% Carignan. It is lush with red and black fruit, woody notes, good, ripe tannins, lots of spice and full body, culminating in long length.
Devois de Perret, Cellier du Pic 2020, Languedoc, France, $14.00 Primarily Syrah, with 25% Grenache, this wine offers up complex aromas of smoke, leather, and dark red cherry. The medium+-bodied palate is fresh with good fruit character and long length.
Château La Negly, Clos des Truffiers 2018, Languedoc, France, $200.00 Originally called Ancely, Château La Negly dates to 1781. Consequently, this wine is produced from some of oldest vines in the region. Bringing together 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache, this is a stunning wine with layers of aromas and flavors. It is very oak dominant, with spice, dill, earth, leather, blackberry, cherries, floral and minerality as well as being rich in texture and tannin, culminating in long length.
LOBSTER PLACE Château de Lascaux, Garrigue 2021, Languedoc, France, $20.00 This white blend (35% Vermentino, 20% Roussanne, 15% White Grenache, 15% Clairette, 10% Marsanne, and 5% Viognier) offers up fresh fruit and lively acidity with aromas and flavors of unsweetened limeade and tropical fruit with a lovely texture. It paired extremely well with Avelon oysters from Maine.
Gerard Bertrand, Source of Joy 2020, Languedoc, France, $20.00 This organic rosé had a portion of its wine matured in oak barrels, giving it depth and structure on the palate. It shows lots of fresh floral and strawberry notes, with long length.
DICKSON’s FARMSTAND MEATS Domaine du Pas de l’Escalette, Ze Rozé 2020, Languedoc, France, $13.00 This is a much paler, lighter-bodied rosé, which is the result of a direct press and gentle extraction. With barely any color, it resembles a white more than a rosé, especially with its high acidity, but its berry aromas and flavors belie its true identity as a rosé.
Domaine de Nizas, Le Clos 2018, Languedoc Pézenas, France, $21.00 Half of this Syrah blend (60% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre and 5% Carignan) spent time in three-year-old French oak barrels. Displaying lots of character and finesse, it is fresh yet tannic, with red fruit and spice, with long length.
Looking for a new (to you) white wine? While certainly not new – grapes have been grown in the region since 972 CE and specific mention of it dates to 1782 – Gavi is perhaps less well known, but definitely worth getting to know. In fact, at a recent seminar, “The Hidden Depths of Gavi: Ageing Potential of Piemonte’s Great White “, moderator Walter Speller suggested that Gavi can “play at the level of Chablis.”
Produced from 100% Cortese grapes, the wine hails from southeast Piedmont, Italy (the same region known for Barolo and Barbaresco as well as Moscato d’Asti). This high-quality wine benefits from the continental climate where it can fully ripen in the hot, sunny summers, yet maintain bright acidity thanks to the coastal marin wind.
This great grape can be produced in several different styles, all while keeping within the rules and regulations of the Gavi Consorzio: Still (which represents 99% of all production); Semi-Sparkling (Metodo Classico, with six months aging on the lees); Fully Sparkling; and Riserva. In addition to adhering to lower yields, these latter wines must be aged for one year, with at least six months of that spent in the bottle.
Established as an official denomination in 1974, Gavi was promoted to DOCG in 1998. Yet, more historically, Gavi played an important role in trade. First firmly rooted in the Roman empire, the area was home to Libarna, which was founded in 2nd century BCE as an agricultural and viticultural city. Later, it became crucial to the Republic of Genoa, which served as a defense post and was instrumental in the salt route. The Genovese needed a wine that could be shipped from place to place and being due north of Genoa in the Alessandria province, Gavi became that wine.
More critical than its geographical proximity, Gavi was an especially good choice thanks to its stability. As a white wine with far less polyphenols – especially catechins – than others, it could be shipped to other areas without fear of damage to the wine.
Today, there are 1600 hectares cultivated within the Gavi borders, accounting for 60% of all Cortese planted within Italy. The vines are dispersed among 11 municipalities in the foothills of the Po Valley, some of which are designated as crus. There has also been an increasing focus on single vineyards as the producers seek to better understand their terroir. In this regard, they recently completed a comprehensive map of the territory.
Additionally, sustainable practices have been embraced by the Consorzio with an aim toward promoting organic viticulture and preventing erosion. This commitment has been further reinforced by its 2018 initiative, which monitors bee pollen to measure whether sustainable viticulture is actually being practiced in the region.
Within the area, Cortese thrives on the combination of red clays, white soils, with marl and sandstone, which display as minerality in the wines. In general, these are fresh, elegant white wines, known less for fruit and more for their floral, nut (almond) and mineral characteristics. Most of the wines are fermented in stainless steel, but a few producers do use wood and there has been an emphasis on indigenous yeasts since 2015.
Although the majority of white wines are meant to be enjoyed in their youth, Cortese is a grape that can sustain the test of time. In particular, thanks to the same chemical components that make them stable for shipment, these are wines that can develop beautifully with eight to ten years of age, yet still retain vibrant acidity. As evidence, the wines tasted at the above referenced seminar hailed from vintages 2013-2019 and all showed quite well.
VINTAGE CHART
2021 – 5.0 stars
2020 – 4.5 stars
2019 – 4.5 stars
2018 – 4.5 stars
2017 – 4.0 stars
2016 – 5.0 stars
2015 – 5.0 stars
TASTING NOTES
La Raia Vigna della Madonnina 2019 Gavi DOCG Riserva Acquired by Giorgio Rossi Cairo and his family in 2003, La Raia is an organic and biodynamic property, with Demeter certification. Aged in stainless steel, with one year lees aging, this fresh wine displays apple, slight citrus and mineral notes, with high acidity, medium to full body and long length.
Tenuta La Giustiana Montessora 2018 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi Founded in 1250, Tenuta La Giustiana is one of the oldest and historic estates. Montessora is a single vineyard. This is beautiful wine with wet stone, lanolin, orange peel aromas. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, along with depth and richness and a hint of chalk in the finish, with long length.
Morgassi Superiore Volo 2018 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi Established in 1993, this small estate is family run, currently under the direction of sisters Marina and Cecilia Piacitelli. The wine is very tart, with lemon and mineral aromas and flavors, along with medium+ body, high acidity and good length.
La Mesma Vigna della Rovere Verde 2016 Gavi DOCG Riserva Also a family affair, La Mesma is run by the Rosina sisters: Paola, Francesca and Anna. Notes of pear and apple greet the nose. The palate is dry, with full body, slight tidal pool notes and minerality, culminating in long length.
Tenuta San Pietro in Tassarolo Il Mnadorlo 2015 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Tassarolo Named for the Benedictine convent that was located on the property in the 11th century, Tenuta San Pietro, the estate was purchased in 2002 by Corrado Alota, a Milanese entrepreneur. Hailing from a warmer vintage and with seven years of age on it, this wine displayed beautiful development with almond and caramel aromas. On the palate, it is rich and concentrated, with medium acidity, full body, and notes of peaches, beeswax, petrol and hazelnuts.
Villa Sparina Monterotondo 2014 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi Winner of Wine Enthusiast’s European Winery of the Year for 2021, Villa Sparina has been producing Gavi since 1970. With grapes sourced from their cru, Monterotondo, this wine is intense, with a rich nose redolent of pear and showing some development. It is full bodied, with slight hints of woodiness, peaches and long length.
Bergaglio Nicola Minaia 2014 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi This estate has been making wine since 1945 and is run by the son and grandson of founder: Jean-Luigi and Diego Bergalo. Sourced from grapes grown on the hilly Minaia site, situated directly behind the family cellar, the wine offers up honey, floral and lemon aromas and flavors with medium acidity, medium body and long length.
Broglia Bruno Broglia 2013 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi The Bruno Broglia acquired his historic estate – La Meirana – in 1972, which is now managed by his sons, Gian Piero and Paolo. With a commitment to modern technology, it was the first estate to collaborate on clonal research related to the Cortese grape and it continues to conduct other studies in concert with local universities. Despite being nearly a decade old, this wine is surprisingly fresh. It provides notes of citrus and mineral, with an undercurrent of anise, with good acidity, medium body and long length.
