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Home is where the heart (and wine) is! Merry Edwards and Friends help us find meaningful moments and connections amidst an angst-ridden year.

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We’ve finally landed in a new place – a new, physical space and a new state of being. And I can finally breathe a sigh of relief. It has been an incredibly challenging time for me over the past several years as I have struggled with anxiety, financial instability, fear, overwhelm, aging and heartbreak.

Much of this can be attributed to the real estate roller coaster on which my husband and I have been on. More specifically, due to financial constraints, in mid-2023, we made the difficult decision to put our home on the market and move to a new neighborhood with the aim of reducing our monthly living expenses. It was an easily conceived plan, yet not so easily implemented.

In fact, what started as a simple idea became a complicated journey that lasted for two and half years and added a lot of stress and strife to our already hectic lives. As a result, we were forced to deal with much uncertainty, a loss of autonomy and a heightened and sustained state of fight/flight/freeze/fawn.

Along the way, we found ourselves half-packed for a period of six months, as we waited for all of the various elements to successfully conclude with the sale of our apartment. Our next leg consisted of subletting a place in a fifth-floor walk up in midtown Manhattan for three months, carrying our medically-compromised dog up and down the stairs at least three times a day. While we were truly grateful to have a safe place to land for that time period, it was definitely not fun.

Thankfully, we are finally on the other side of this ordeal and are trying to level-set our lives once again as we settle into our new home and new normal.

However, all of this upheaval definitely stirred up a lot of feelings, causing us to ask the question: What is a home, anyway? Is it bricks and mortar? Is it your mailing address? Is it simply the place where you lay your head each night?

For twelve years, we had lived in an apartment we had dubbed ZenSKape. With its Zen-like decor – a shoji screen room divider, a waterfall wall feature and art from our trip to Japan – it had been our sanctuary during that time. But, living day-to-day, surrounded by a perimeter of boxes, our home shifted into someplace we no longer felt calm. Then, the relocation to someone else’s residence, added to our sense of unease and a lack of belonging.

In response to this nervous system dysregulation, I found myself reaching out to friends with greater frequency, trying to find that calm and connection. And, many of these meet ups centered around wine, lending a festive and familiar air to our visits. Wine was a constant, keeping us tethered to community and reminding us to find moments of pleasure, peace and happiness, even on some of the hardest days. And, ultimately, finding the joy of making it to the end of this journey!

TASTING NOTES
Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00
May 2025 found me in the moments before the chaos. We were in contract on both the sale of our apartment and the purchase of a new one, anticipating a positive outcome to the lengthy process. In that spirit of enthusiasm, I met up with my friend Ron at his apartment, with a bottle of Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2023 in hand. We opened up the bottle, poured the wine and conversation flowed. Bright acidity, medium plus body, slight herbs, citrus and tropical fruit, culminating in long length and pairing beautifully with Thai cuisine.

Merry Edwards Meredith Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00
Domaine Anderson Pinot Noir 2021, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $55.00
A few weeks later, we admittedly started to feel nostalgic as the end date of living at ZenSKape loomed large. We made linguini with clam sauce for dinner at home and reached for the Merry Edwards Meredith Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2023. With tropical fruit and citrus aromas, it was more reserved on the palate, with tart citrus, minerality and long length. In a similar bid for holding on to precious moments, we enjoyed a picnic in Fort Tryon Park with our neighbors, preparing Tuna Nicoise and pairing it with the Domaine Anderson Pinot Noir 2021.


Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022, Sonoma Coast (CA), USA, $50.00
In further anticipation of our impending move to Riverdale, I met up with my dear friend Aleksandra in her home in Riverdale in June, bearing a bottle of Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. The visit was lovely as was the wine, which offered up bright acidity, medium body, luscious red fruit, slight herbal undertones and long length.

Merry Edwards 25th Anniversary Pinot Noir 2022, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $120.00
Yet, by now, the fatigue of uncertainty had started to weigh on our minds. We had expected to be closing on both places by the end of June, but midway through the month, nothing had changed. Then, only a few days later, we learned that our application to the board in our proposed new building was denied. In the wake of that distressing news, we tried to find a bright spot by enjoying the 2022 25th Anniversary Pinot Noir, which displayed notes of raspberry and dark cherries on the nose. The dry palate presented lively acidity, medium-plus body, with hints of cocoa and spice, along with a very long length. Not long after this delicious diversion, we finished packing up all of our wines, limiting our home consumption for some time.

Bon Vivant Sparkling Rosé NV, California, USA, $20.00
Finally, in early October, the sale of our apartment was complete and we relocated to the midtown sublet noted above. In an effort to make the sublet our own, we found ways to spend time together and with friends. On one occasion, my friend Laura stopped by on a Friday evening, during which we enjoyed the Bon Vivant Sparkling Rosé with charcuterie, cheese and olives before heading to City Center for a mesmerizing dance production of Turn It Out with Tiler Peck & Friends. With a beautiful pale salmon hue, the effervescence danced on our tongues, with flavors of citrus, apple skin and toast.

Bon Vivant Sparkling NV, California, USA, $20.00
Not wanting him to feel left out, I opened up the rose’s Brut sparkler equivalent the following week for our date night in the sublet with Thai takeout. Both this wine and the rose were really wonderful examples of Traditional Method sparkling wines available at a reasonable price point. The Brut had an elegant mousse, with aromas of toast, green apple, citrus and long length.

Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Chardonnay 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $70.00
By now it was mid-November and Thanksgiving was around the corner. As it had been awhile since I had seen my friend Ron, we made our usual plans to meet up at his place over a bottle or two. I knew he would appreciate this single vineyard Chard, with its complex aromas of lemon, citrus, vanilla and toffee. The excellent, full bodied white had bright acidity and very long length; it did not disappoint.


Scharffenberger Cellars Blanc de Noirs 2019, Mendocino County (CA), USA, $40.00
Domaine Anderson Estate Pinot Noir 2022, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $55.00
Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $77.00
For the past five years, we had hosted Friendsgiving in our apartment, which was an important and meaningful celebration for us. But, being in temporary housing meant that such a gathering was impossible. Gratefully, our dear friends who had been welcome guests at our Friendsgiving table took up the mantle to host and invited us to join them and others. We arrived ready to relish a sumptuous meal, surrounded by chosen family and fabulous food, with a Trader Joe’s pumpkin pie and three bottles of wine. We kicked off the festivities with the Scharffenberger Blanc de Noirs 2019, with its notes of toast and lemon, joined by a hint of almond in the finish. As the meal progressed, we opened up two Pinot Noirs, which are a great accompaniment at the Thanksgiving table, as I have shared previously. The Domaine Anderson Estate Pinot Noir 2022 provided an array of dried herbs, spice, berries and fresh red fruits, along with good acidity, medium body and long length. In contrast, the Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2023 was less fruit forward and much moodier with smoke, fresh herbal notes, and wet leaves,, but was still bright on the palate with medium-plus body and very long length.


Scharffenberger Sparkling Rosé NV, Mendocino County (CA), USA, $30.00
On the heels of this holiday high, we were grateful to receive good news – our interview with the board at our new apartment co-op had been scheduled for early December. This boded well since it is rare that you are invited to interview if you won’t be accepted soon after. Fingers crossed, we went into the interview cautiously optimistic. Our hard work in putting together our board package was richly rewarded with the announcement that we had, indeed, been accepted. For certain, this called for a bubbly celebration and the Scharffenberger Sparkling Rosé was a perfect option. We slowly savored the mix of red cherries and yeasty notes; admired the palate’s lovely mousse, good acidity and long length; and exhaled a big sigh of relief.  We finally had a new home!

Roederer Estate Sparkling Brut MV, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $32.00
Roederer Estate Sparkling Rose MV, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $39.00
We had the good fortune to be able to move into our apartment in time for the December holidays and, consequently, kept the celebration going. Christmas Day found us at home, happy to be able to continue our Christmas tradition of a Jewish Christmas (Chinese food and movies) in our new place. We merrily toasted the season with Roederer Estate’s Sparkling Rose, which offered up fresh notes of strawberry, apple peel and yeast, along with bright acidity and long length. The Sparkling Brut was wonderful a few days later as we unpacked our lives and got ready for the new year.


Domaine Anderson Estate Chardonnay 2022, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $40.00
Merry Edwards Georgeanne Pinot Noir 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $72.00
For the MLK Holiday weekend, we hunkered down with the snow and settled into our annual connection weekend tradition. Among our activities, we enjoyed some nice dinners together and opened up two wines over the course of the weekend. The Chardonnay displayed a balanced use of oak, with citrus and tropical fruit, medium-plus body and medium acidity. We especially loved the Georganne Pinot Noir 2023, with its range of aromas and flavors from wet leaves and coffee to cherries and cocoa, along with bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Domaine Anderson Pinoli Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021, Anderson Valley, (CA), USA, $70.00
Merry Edwards Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2023, Anderson Valley, (CA), USA, $55.00
At this point in our tenure, we were ready to welcome guests to our home, which we had christened, MaisonOtto. First to visit were Hillarie and Tom, from our previous building, as well as my friend Helene. They all had the good fortune to enjoy Domaine Anderson Pinoli Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 with its depth of bright red fruit, blueberry, and spices. The palate provided good acidity, medium body and very long length. A week or so later, Keith and Linda stopped by before we headed out to dinner at the new Mediterranean restaurant, Sawa, around the corner. We opened up the Merry Edwards Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2023, which displayed aromas of cocoa, blueberry and blackberry, slight herbs and earth, which gave way to bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Roederer Estate Clark Road Vineyard 2021, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $55.00
Merry Edwards Coopersmith Pinot Noir 2023, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $75.00
Finally, by mid-February, we were mostly settled and were ready to host our first dinner party, which took the form of a February Baby Birthday Dinner – celebrating two of my best friends whose birthdays are in February. The menu included Carrot and Ginger Soup, Beef Tagine with Apricots and Prunes and a Gluten-Free Chocolate Gingerbread Cake. Admittedly, I was too busy hosting to take good tasting notes, but both wines were truly well received and added greatly to the celebratory nature of the birthday dinner. It had been an arduous journey, but we had definitely arrived on the other side. Home Sweet Home!

Loire Valley Wine for the Win

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With Thanksgiving around the corner, one need not look any further than the Loire Valley for wonderful wines to grace their table. Here, in the land of castles and Kings, French royalty would spend their summers in the countryside away from the hustle and bustle of Parisian city life.

Spanning 629 miles and stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the center of France before heading south, the Loire River is the longest wild river in France. Given this vast distance covered, a diversity of climates, grapes and wines exist, making the river among the only threads that tie this large wine region together. Rather, while lumped into one large region, the Loire Valley is actually an amalgam of several smaller wine appellations that offer up a wide range of wines thanks to changing microclimates, soil types and grape varieties. This sheer diversity means that there is something for everyone from bone dry, mineral-driven whites to lusciously sweet dessert wines and everything in between. Additionally, the area is known for its full range of red, white, rose and refreshing sparklers. So, if you can’t find a Loire Valley wine to love… chances are that you don’t actually like wine 😉.

My husband and I visited the Loire Valley back in 1999, as part of a belated honeymoon trip through France. Our knowledge of the area was limited, but we were excited to visit the grand chateaux that now function as museums. However, upon arriving in the region, we quickly discovered that it was not only home to stunning scenery, exquisite castles and fabulous gastronomy, but it was also home to a plethora of wine.

To wit, we had barely entered the area when we were enticed to stop at Domaine Ackerman where we did a tasting of their Crémant de Loire sparkling wines. These Traditional Method sparklers spend a minimum of nine months aging on the lees and deliver great quality and value. It was a lovely introduction to the region and a welcome respite after our long drive.

Today, 85% of Loire Valley vineyards are farmed in adherence with one or more environmental approaches, signifying the region’s dedication to sustainable practices. The most prevalent varieties include Cabernet Franc (most notably the Bourgueil and Chinon appellations), Chenin Blanc (grown in the areas of Anjou, Saumur and Vouvray) and Melon (wines labeled as Muscadet, hailing from the Atlantic coast). Another key grape is Sauvignon Blanc, which is primarily planted in the continental climate of the Central Vineyards (with wines labeled — and perhaps more recognizable to consumers as — Sancerre, Pouilly Fume, and Menetou-Salon).

At a recent walk-around tasting and dinner at Lafayette, I had the opportunity to taste through a vast selection of Loire Valley wines, presented by category. While I didn’t try every single wine on offer (nor did I attempt to do so), I did a pretty good job, sipping (and spitting) 37 of the 50 wines. After the tasting portion of the evening, we were treated to a sumptuous, multi-course meal, paired with additional Loire Valley wines.

A few of my favorite wines from the evening are listed below, but I highly encourage you to simply seek out Loire Valley wines on restaurant wine lists and at your local bottle shop. Not only do they offer great diversity, they are generally well priced and very food friendly, making them a fantastic option for your holiday celebrations.


Sparkling
Domaine du Changeon Les Fabuleuses 2023, Crémant de Loire, France
This 100% Cabernet Franc rose sparkler offers up notes of yeast, and floral. It was slightly fuller bodied, with a heftier palate than some of the others I tasted, with a nice richness and weight, culminating in very long length.

Maison Ackerman Crémant de Loire Rosé Brut Bulle Royale, Crémant de Loire, France
Having visited this winery decades ago, it was a pleasure to become reacquainted with their wines. Another rose sparkling wine, this one brings together 60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Pinot Noir and 10% Grolleau. It displayed elegance and finesse with a fine bead on the palate, along with slight cherry and yeast aromas and flavors.

Sauvignon Blanc & Other Whites
Domaine Pre Baron Sauvignon Blanc 2024, Touraine AOC, France
A more restrained style of Sauvignon Blanc than many of those produced in New Zealand, this wine provided citrus and mineral notes, along with medium body and good length.

Vignoble Gilbert Chon, Perle Bleue – Folle Blanche 2023 Gros Plant due Pays Nantais, France
While Folle Blanche is not a well known grape, most relegated to the production of Cognac and Armagnac, this wine was a shining example of how a less lauded variety is capable of producing a simple, yet very satisfying wine. Citrus notes, crisp acidity, and good length.

Melon Blanc
Domaine Julien Braud Les Vignes du Bourg 2023, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine AOC, France
Aged for six months on the lees in glass-lined vats, this wine shows bright acidity, yeasty aromas, joined by citrus-lime flavors on the palate, with long length.

Vignoble Gilbert Chon Muscat Chateau de la Jousseliniere 2023, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine AOC, France
Having spent more than 8 months aging on the lees, this wine displays more pronounced yeast notes, along with minerality and very long length. It is the quintessential pairing partner to oysters.

Chenin Blanc
Alliance Loire Vouvray Sec Les Lys 2021, Vouvray, France
This wine offers up a complex mix of minerality and tree fruit, with a rich palate and really lovely mouthfeel, culminating with long length.

Domaine de la Chataigneraie Vouvray de Gautier 2023, Vouvray AOC, France
Similarly rich and complex, this wine provides very ripe tropical fruit, but is balanced with vibrant acidity.

Roses & Reds
Lacheteau Soupcon de Fruit Rose d’Anjou 2024, Rosé d´Anjou AOC, France
A blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 20% Grolleau, and 20% Gamay, this off-dry rose shows ripe, red berries, but remains fresh and balanced with good acidity and nice length.

Domaine Oudart Apicula 2023, Touraine AOC, France
Produced from 100% Gamay — a grape more associated with Beaujolais than the Loire — this is a fresh and fragrant quaffable red, with ripe fruit, and candied bacon.

Cabernet Franc
Catherine et Pierre Breton Trinch! 2023, Bourgueil AOC, France
Layered notes of dried herbs, spice, and black cherry, with crunchy acidity, medium+ body, integrated tannins and long length.

Amirault -Clos des Quarterons ls Quarterons2023, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil AOC, France
Biodynamically produced by members of the 6th generation, this is really lovely, with soft tannins, lots of minerality, fresh red fruit, an herbal undercurrent and long length.

Domaine Pierre et Bertrand Couly La Haute Olive 2018, Chinon AOC, France
Enjoyed with dinner, this wine was a beautiful pairing with the Short Rib Bourguignon and showed off that these wines have aging potential.

Get to know Paso and Continental Vineyards

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Although less well known than Napa or Sonoma, the California Central Coast wine region of Paso Robles produces high quality wines and has become a wonderful destination for wine tourism.

I first visited the region in 2007 after having participated in the Society of Wine Educator’s conference, which was held in Monterey, CA that year. Post-conference, we headed south to Big Sur and spent a few days enjoying the beautiful Pacific Coast Highway, hiking in state parks and relaxing in our yurt at Treebones Resort.

With a red-eye flight from San Jose to home, we had a full final day of our vacation and we opted to head even further south and spend time getting to know Paso. It did not disappoint and we thoroughly enjoyed our time visiting wineries, including Turley, Lone Madrone, Tobin James and Eberle, among others, and meeting amazing people. Plus, we relished the hot, sunny weather.

Our time in Big Sur had been lovely, but quite cool, rarely getting above 70°F and it has been consistently clouded in fog. Rising early in the morning, we headed due South on CA-1 for about an hour, before reaching the turn off onto CA-46E. As we drove inland, the foggy conditions intensified until we were driving through the thick clouds. We continued carefully, climbing in altitude, until we were literally above the clouds and then free of them altogether, as we completed the final miles of our journey and were met with clear skies, sunshine and 85°F degree weather.

At that point in my wine studies, I had read about how mountains such as the Vosges in Alsace or the Cascades in Washington state protected the eastern-lying areas from cooler climates and wet weather, but it wasn’t until that day that I truly saw it in action.

Hence, Paso Robles is home to a hot summer, Mediterranean climate, providing optimum growing conditions for vineyards. But, it is also home to the state’s largest diurnal temperature swing, varying by as much as 40 degrees in a given day. Consequently, the grapes fully ripen due to the heat with balanced sugar and acid flavors due to the cooler nights. Of course, as in any region, there are various microclimates within.

Initially settled by Native Americans, the area became a gateway to two of the California Missions in the late 1700s and, by the middle of the 19th century, Paso Robles was known as a resort town due to its sulfur springs. And, while wine was produced in the region for the missions, it wasn’t until the 1920s that a more commercial vineyard of 2,000 acres was planted to Petite Syrah and Zinfandel by Ignacy Paderewski, a famous Polish statesman and concert pianist (Source: https://www.prcity.com/377/History-of-Paso-Robles) 

By the late 1960s, there was a wine grape growing boom, followed by significant vineyard development in the 1990s, representing a 72% growth. Since then, Paso continues to grow and prosper vinously, increasing from 170 wineries in 2007 to more than 200 wineries today (as per the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance’s website) and similarly expanding from more than 40 different varieties planted in its vineyards to over 60. (ibid).

Among the vast collection of wineries, I was recently introduced to Continental Vineyards, which  has a long history of growing grapes and making wine in Paso. The property was planted in 1973 by Herman Schwartz, with early adoption of sustainable agriculture in the 1980s. Schwartz continued to upgrade his vines, selecting high quality vines for replanting. Ownership of these quality vineyards was transferred in 2006, with a continued emphasis on sustainability. It is presently planted to approximately 713 acres of grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay and others.

Today, the site is home to two sister brands: CV Wines and Broken Earth, cultivating grapes from this legendary vineyard. The former brand is dedicated to Bordeaux varieties while the latter produces a wider range of wines from the diverse varieties grown on the estate. Both brands are California Sustainable Winegrowing Certified. To that end, they have implemented cutting-edge irrigation and water-use strategies, among other practices. Moreover, with more than 50 years of experience and growth (both literally and figuratively), these are beautifully crafted wines that are worth seeking out.

If you are looking for a wine destination this summer, check out Paso Robles. Alternately, the region will be hosting a tasting event in San Jose: Savor Paso on June 27, 2025.

TASTING NOTES

CV Reserve Cabernet Franc 2022, Paso Robles (CA), USA, $80.00
This wine spends 24 months aging in 100% new oak. On the nose, it offers up notes of herbs, spice, oak, mulberry and cranberry. The full-bodied palate has medium acidity, firm tannins and an undercurrent of wet leaves in the long finish.

CV Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Paso Robles (CA), USA, $80.00
Also aged for 24 months in new oak, this wine displays aromas of warm red and black fruit, with cedar and slight spice. Complex and balanced, the palate is dry, with ripe fruit; firm, ripe tannins; warmth; good acidity;  full body and very long length.

CV Studium 2020, Paso Robles (CA), USA, $80.00
The name of this proprietary blend translates as “house of learning” and is produced with an unspecified mix of Bordeaux grape varieties. Initially aged in neutral oak barrels for 12 months, the wine is then transferred to second use French oak for additional aging. The result is a nose with smoke, leather and black fruit. The palate displays bright acidity, full body and firm, ripe tannins, along with a hint of vanilla and spice, culminating in long length.

For a good vibe, drink Languedoc wine

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Hosted in the Hall des Lumerieres, the wines of Languedoc AOP held an immersive tasting that brought together art and wine. I am most recently (albeit not that recent) wrote about these wines after having attended a seminar and tasting with Laura Maniac (see story).

With wall art projections designed by Paris-based artist, Roman Hill, guests were “invited to experience a dreamlike journey through a living canvas. While I didn’t quite see the link between the images and the wines, I do strongly believe that the two are intertwined and certainly there is a connection. Moreover, the immersive exhibit was beautiful and fun to explore. Additionally, while an agriculture product, to me wine is most certainly an art that brings together Mother Nature and humans in the craft of a unique beverage.

Thus, it was wonderful to taste through the lovely Languedoc wines on offer and be reminded of their diversity and deliciousness.

Georgian culture, Chateau Buera and Gifts from God: An evening at Chama Mama

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While I have previously tasted and written about Georgian wine, it has been from a more clinical vantage point – tasting wines and taking notes at my own dining table or occasionally sampling one at an adventurous wine bar. However, it wasn’t until last week that I had a much more immersive experience with the wines, food and culture of Georgia, which was an absolute privilege and pleasure.

More specifically, in Georgian culture, guests are seen as a gift from God, which is exactly how I felt at a recent press dinner at the Brooklyn outpost of Chama Mama – a top Georgian restaurant with three locations in New York City.

Due to subway signal issues, I arrived slightly late, feeling a bit out of sorts and overwhelmed as I was introduced to a flurry of people and then further greeted a glass of wine: Chateau Buera Ojaleshi Rose 2021. But, within minutes, the group of us were easily comfortable with one another as we acknowledged both our differences and our shared roots of growing up in the Metro New York area.

Chama Mama’s Lasha Tsatava, wine director and Mariam Navdarashvili, chief marketing officer.

Presiding over the dinner were our hosts Nino Chiokadze, executive chef and Lasha Tsatava, wine director. We were also joined by Chama Mama’s chief marketing officer, Mariam Navdarashvili. While long on passion for Georgian wine, Lasha’s tenure in New York is limited to just a handful of weeks (although he has lived in the U.S. since 1998).

But, he is on a mission to share his love and passion for Georgian wine with the United States. In fact, he is so passionate about sharing these wines with the U.S. that he is co-founder with Erica Frey of the non-profit Saperica, whose “mission is to promote Saperavi and other Georgian grape varieties along with Georgian gastronomy and culture in the Finger Lakes, NY and around the U.S., by organizing and facilitating educational seminars and exchange programs between the regions, for wine and culinary professionals and enthusiasts.”

In fact, citing its incredibly long and rich vinous history (in 2017, conclusive evidence proved that Georgia was the birthplace of wines), Lasha was eager to share how Georgia and wine have been inextricably linked forever, which permeates throughout its culture and political history, a point he came back to on several occasions.

After our initial introductions, we gathered around the table to begin our feast, where we were greeted by a beautiful bowl of fresh, seasonal vegetables, including Persian cucumbers, brightly colored red radishes and other farm-fresh produce. From this first taste, our immersion into Georgian culture began.

Lasha explained that the seasoned salt found in a ramekin on the table was typical of NW Georgia, in the mountainous region of Georgia called Svaneti. Associated with the Argonauts and the Golden Fleece (thanks to its mention in Homer’s Odyssey), this area contains the most preserved culture of the country. Bringing together salt and a blend of spices, the mixture was delicious for dipping the aforementioned vegetables and simply enjoying them on their own.

Another important component of Georgian culture was the presence of bread (aka puri) on the table. Joining the vegetables and salt were simple mini baguettes and a flatter, pita-looking bread, both of which had been baked in a wood fired oven. We were encouraged to dip the bread in flavored sunflower oil, known as adjika. This spicy condiment was more flavor than heat and added a delicious dimension to enjoying the bread.

Appetites whetted, we turned our attention to the first course, which further showcased the season with a Spring herb salad, featuring aromatic, springtime tarragon in the dressing. This herby freshness paired beautifully with the white wine served alongside it: Chateau Buera Rkatsiteli 2022. This wine displayed lovely notes of citrus, hazelnut and salinity, with medium acidity, medium body and long length.

At this point, we were provided with a more formal introduction to our other (yet non-present) host of the evening – Château Buera. Buera is situated in Kakheti, an area that Lasha likened to the Napa Valley, and which represents 75% of the country’s plantings and 70% of its total wine production.

Château Buera was established in 2018 by Goga Maisuradze who is also the founder of Lopota Spa Resort and is responsible for spearheading tourism to the region. Here, the focus is on European wine making, while celebrating indigenous varieties (such as Rkatsiteli, Ojaleshi and Saperavi) and centuries-old winemaking. In this regard, Lasha described Buera as a modern, visionary producer and further shared that many of the wines had been aged, not just in oak, but also in clay vessels known as qvevri. Also important to note is that Chateau Buera utilizes sustainable agriculture practices in its vineyards and is in the process of obtaining BIO certification.

Equally important, as the meal progressed, we were given a glimpse into classic Georgian culture – the Supra, which is a feast hosted by a toastmaster, referred to as the Tamada. Clearly serving as our tamada, Lasha held his glass aloft and welcomed us to the table, noting our shared love of food, wine and travel, a very apropos toast and a lovely way to highlight how our shared experiences bring us all together.

Typically, these feasts feature immense tables heavily laden with food, dozens of people and toasts that last well into the night. Some of the extended nature of these events can be attributed to the Tamada’s nomination of an Alaverdi – someone nominated to elaborate on the toast. Fortunately, the nominations were limited and while our evening was no less memorable or special, it gratefully left us only tipsy and home before midnight.

Salad plates cleared, we were brought our second course, which consisted of a “Taste of Georgia,” starring four different pkhali (spreads)  – spinach, cabbage, beans and eggplant  – served alongside two different breads. These spreads are prepared with walnut paste and other seasonings such as garlic, cilantro and pomegranate. The bread options were the open faced, seasonal khachapuri, topped with fresh tarragon and basil and the imeruli khachpuri stuffed with farmers and other cheeses, which was reminiscent (to me) of a cheese borek.

Lasha suggested different combinations of the spreads with the bread options and added to the permutations by serving a trio of Amber wines. The Amber wine style is a category especially close to Lasha’s heart and one that they are actively building at the restaurant. While some people may be familiar with skin-contact, orange wines, they deliberately use the term Amber (instead of orange) as these are skin-contact wines that are specifically aged in clay qvevri.

Our flight consisted of an “Intro to Amber” wine, “Combo” and a “ ‘Full-On’ Amber”, denoting three different styles of these wines. Lasha explained that these wines provided a 3D experience with clay serving as a third dimension in addition to the more common use of stainless steel and oak.

Hailing from Western Georgia, the Intro wine (Tsolikouri Amber 2020, with one month of full skin-contact and six months in qvevri) offered up more fresh fruit with low tannins; more tannic than the Intro and with less fresh fruit character, the modern innovation Combo wine (Chateau Buera Qvevri Amber 2019) had been aged in oak. Finally, the “Full-On style (Pat’ra Marani Rkatsiteli 2021) was redolent of rich, dried fruit and was more overtly tannic on the palate. A similar Amber flight is always on offer at the restaurant as are ones featuring white wines, Saperavi wines and a trio of white, amber and red.

From breads and spreads, we shifted to heavier fare, with pork mtsvadi, pork skewers that had been marinated for at least 24 hours. The Chef further clarified that dried vine stems are used alongside the charcoal when cooking the meat. This course was served with the Château Buera Saperavi Reserve 2018, which had been aged in French oak for 12 months and then another 12 months in bottle, before release. This wine offered up beautiful notes of black cherry, chocolate and cocoa powder and toast, with good acidity, ripe tannins, full body and long length. 

The pork plate was followed by lamb chops similarly marinated for a lengthy period of time and also sprinkled with pomegranates, adding sweetness and tartness in contrast to the meaty flavors. The chops were accompanied by the Dekanozishvili Dry Red 2017, a blend of 70% Saperavi, 20% Otskhanuri Sapere and 10% Shavkapito. The wine had been fermented in both qvevri and oak, aged in oak barrel for 18 months and had also been produced using the appassimento method of drying out the grapes over a period of months to naturally reduce their water content and thereby increase the concentration of flavors. At seven years of age, this showed some development on the nose and palate with aromas of smoke, toast, forest floor and black fruit. It was intense with heady flavors, culminating in very long length.

Nearly sated with food and drink, we were presented with one last course: Pelamushi, which is a “traditional Georgian sweet grape pudding topped with glazed walnuts”. To produce this dish, grape juice retained from during harvest is significantly reduced to concentrate the flavors and cooked with flour to produce a gelatinous, yet tasty, dessert. The course was paired with the Royal Khvanchkara Khvanchkara Red Semi-sweet 2018, from NW Georgia featuring a blend of the Alexandrouli and Mujeruli grapes.

As we lingered at the table a little longer, Lasha insisted upon us tasting a little Chacha, Georgian distilled beverage produced similarly to Grappa, produced from the Rkatsiteli grape and “blended with glacier-based water from the Caucasus mountains, aged in qvevri (handcrafted clay vessel) for 3-4 month and charcoal filtered before bottling”. It was very smooth, balanced and a refreshing palate cleanser.

We had finally come to the end of our evening and reluctantly bid our hosts farewell. We might not have quite become friends, but we certainly left feeling more connected, having shared a very special experience that truly immersed us in the ways of Georgian wine and food. Whether or not guests are seen as gifts from God, having been a part of this magical evening was truly a gift! 

LIST of WINES TASTED

  • Chateau Buera Ojaleshi Rose 2021, Lechkhumi, Georgia
  • Chateau Buera Rkatsiteli 2022, Khakheti, Georgia
  • Tsolikouri Amber 2020, Georgia
  • Chateau Buera Qvevri Amber 2019, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Pat’ra Marani Rkatsiteli 2021, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Chateau Buera Saperavi Reserve 2018, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Dekanozishvili Dry Red 2017, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Royal Khvanchkara Khvanchkara Red Semi-sweet 2018, Racha, Georgia
  • AMBE wine spirit from Rkatsiteli grapes

It’s Duck Season: Drinking the Natural Path Wines from Duck Pond Cellars

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It’s the duck days of summer. It’s been super hot and then…not! But, if you are a lucky duck, you’ve got Duck Pond Cellars’ wines in your glass. In particular, their Natural Path Production wines perfectly hit the spot whether it’s 70F or 90F.

The Dundee, Oregon-based winery was founded in 1993 and has always been committed to sustainability. Its grapes are organically farmed and hand-harvested, with continued attention to detail once they reach the winery. More recently, they have become involved in the Clean Label Project, a non-profit organization “whose mission is to bring truth and transparency to food and consumer product labeling.”

Launched under the Natural Path Production line, Duck Pond’s first wines were certified by this organization with the 2020 vintage, making them the first wines in America to receive this certification.

In adherence to the certification program, the ingredients are clearly stated on the label. Additionally, they testify to low sulfite use (<=100 PPM), vegan-only fining agents and the non-use of Glyphosate and Neonicotinoid pesticides.

Equally important to Duck Pond’s focus on natural production, is that these wines are well made and well-priced, ranging from $15-$19 per bottle (winery prices; might be higher at your local wine shop). As of now, there are four wines in the Natural Path line up: Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Rose (not tasted) and Pinot Noir.

Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Pinot Gris 2022, Willamette Valley (OR), USA, $16.00
On the nose, this wine displays notes of tangerine and smoke, which persist on the dry palate. The wine is quite luscious, with bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Chardonnay 2021, Oregon, USA, $15.00
This wine offers up melon and butter aromas and flavors, and an oak undercurrent, with medium acidity, medium plus body, and long length. It was a crowd pleaser at a recent gathering of friends.

Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Pinot Noir 2021, Oregon, USA, $19.00
Fresh aromas of cherry and raspberry greet the nose. The dry palate provides ripe black cherries, herbs, and an earthy undercurrent, with medium plus acidity, medium plus body and medium plus length. Really lovely.


Not just another gadget, Coravin kills at anniversary dinner demo

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Where were you 10 years ago? Some days I have trouble remembering where I was 10 hours ago (let alone 10 years), but in this case, about 10 days ago, I had the distinct pleasure of celebrating Coravin’s 10th anniversary with founder, Greg Lambrecht. It was a wonderful evening spending time with the intelligent and personable Lambrecht as we learned about the genesis of this unique wine device, designed to preserve the integrity of an “open” bottle of wine.

As an inventor and MIT-trained physicist, Lambrecht develops medical devices for spinal injuries through his company, Intrinsic Therapeutics, Inc.  When one has such capacity, it’s hard not to use those same skills to solve your own “problems”.

His “problem”? How to enjoy high quality wine in a single serving without negatively impacting the rest of the bottle/wine (once a wine is opened and has exposure to air/oxygen, it will eventually begin to oxidize). The situation was exacerbated when his wife became pregnant and gave up drinking. A devout, long-time wine aficionado (Lambrecht first fell in love with wine at age 16 on a trip to the Napa Valley), he wanted to be able to enjoy a glass or two with dinner. Thus, he sought to address the problem for his own daily enjoyment.

His initial thoughts on how to build a better mouse trap (such as mimicking tools like the Vacuvin) didn’t seem to yield the correct solution. Thus, while he felt that he needed a better way to solve this conundrum, it wasn’t until he came upon the key thought – to not open the bottle – that idea for Coravin came about.

The first prototype debuted in 1999 and was dubbed the “mosquito” by his young son. Prototype 1.5 included the all-important regulator, which he quickly discovered was essential due to the extreme pressure of the gases (argon or nitrogen) being pumped into the bottle to replace the lost (aka drink) wine.

It took 14 iterations to get it right. But, despite the time and energy invested in these iterations, it wasn’t until 2011 that he founded the company, Coravin, recognizing that it could become a commercial product able to solve the same issue for other people. The Coravin product was officially launched in 2013.

Building on that success, his latest product is Vinitas, which came about as a request from wine director, Daniel Johannes during the Pandemic. Johannes wanted to be able to send out samples of high-end wines for his La Paulee event since meeting in person wasn’t an option. Lambrecht took on the challenge, but it took a full three years to develop the tool. The resulting machine breaks down the volume of a bottle of wine into fractions, while ensuring that the wine remains unharmed by exposure to air. Lambrecht joked it is the “smallest bottling line”.

While not ready in time to address Johannes’ quandary over La Paulee, Vinitas is useful for wineries and wine stores to permit the customer to more easily sample wine with a smaller commitment and is currently available to be leased.

Today, Coravin is available in 60 different countries and Lambrecht now spends only 50% of his time in medical devices development, traveling worldwide to promote his vinous inventions.

Not surprisingly, as someone who invents devices that improve people’s health, Lambrecht has always been motivated by the desire to positively influence people’s lives. Consequently, he is extremely gratified by the positive impact that Coravin has had on the wine world and in the way that people drink wine. is also proud to be a disrupter and shared stories of how he was initially met with skepticism or even outright disdain. In this regard, the sommelier of a prestigious German restaurant refused to take a meeting with him and the owner of a French chateau threatened to thwart his product by the insertion of a metal strip under the capsule. Both of whom eventually saw Coravin’s benign benefit. Similarly, wine critic Robert Parker made it clear that he had no interest in “gadgets” yet by the end of the meal he shared with Lambrecht, he was a true convert.

Which brings me back to the Coravin celebration with Lambrecht at Le Pavillion restaurant in New York City, at which we tasted a 2001 Bordeaux, which had been “opened” 19 years ago under Coravin. It was still very enjoyable and showed no signs of oxidation. It was quite a triumph, even to Lambrecht who had only previously anticipated a 15-year window. Equally impressive, if not more so, we tasted Rare Champagne 2008, which had been opened under Coravin for two weeks and was still very effervescent, displaying small, persistent bubbles for over an hour in my glass!  

Coravin is not particularly intended for the average consumer to purchase directly (although if you have the means, I am sure they would be happy to sell it to you). Rather, the average consumer can certainly benefit from Coravin by having the opportunity to taste high end wines at restaurants and wine bars without having to invest in an entire bottle.

So, on the arrival of Coravin’s anniversary, I invite you to raise a glass and toast the ingenuity of a wine-obsessed physicist. Cheers to Lambrecht and cheers to Coravin!


Summer Sippers: 2023 Edition

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Summertime… and the living is easy (or at least less encumbered compared to winter – no hats, gloves or scarves or bulky winter coats).

The Summer Solstice is upon us, and, although the weather doesn’t quite feel like it, it is indeed summertime and the season for barbecues, picnics and other outdoor endeavors. It’s a great time to gravitate towards fresh whites, lighter reds and the ubiquitous roses. Sparkling wines are also a fabulous option for this time of year (check out my story on Moscato d’Asti).

Villa Maria EarthGarden Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, New Zealand, $20.00
From one of my favorite NZ producers, this wine is produced as a blend of 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes harvested from several vineyards, all of which are sustainably grown. What that means is that the vineyards are free from synthetic pesticides and herbicides and are planted with a plethora of wildflowers to attract bees and beneficial insects. The nose offers up pronounced aromas of grapefruit and a slight herbal note. The medium bodied palate is fresh and bright, with grapefruit, herbs and the addition of lime, culminating in long length.

Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2021, Barossa Valley, Australia, $14.00
This wine underwent wild fermentation and lees aging, both of which add depth and complexity to the wine. With distinct floral, tangerine and tropical fruit aromas on the nose, the full bodied palate provides good acidity, joined by flavors of ginger and citrus, with long length.


C’Est La Vie Pinot Noir Syrah 2020, Vin de Pays, France, $13.00
From Burgundian producer, Albert Bichot, this red blend (60% Pinot Noir and 40% Syrah) is a fresh and lively, easy drinking wine that’s perfect for a picnic or barbecue. With aromas of spice, earth, smoke and berries, it is dry, yet ripe, on the palate with medium+ acidity, medium+ body and medium+ length.

Let’s hear it for Grenache/Garnacha: Winners of the International Competition Grenaches du Monde just announced

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I had the pleasure of serving as a juror for the 11th annual International Competition Grenaches du Monde. As such, I tasted through 80 wine samples featuring the Grenacha, aka Garnacha, grape, in all of its guises: white, rosé, red, and fortified sweet wines. This grape variety is capable of creating world class wines and, from the blind samples I tasted, it was clear that there is a lot of wonderful wine being produced and expertly showcasing this great grape.

Organized by the Asociación Garnacha Origen of Spain and the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Roussillon/ CIVR of France, this year’s competition was held outside of Europe for this very first time. It featured over 800 Garnacha/Grenache wines from producers across France, Spain, Italy, and the US, which were judged by a panel of 80 U.S. wine industry jurors, including sommeliers, media, distributors, importers, and influencers.

Wines were judged in early to mid-June, with the results announced this week. A total of 233 wines of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and 35 wines from the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) earned medals.

To view the 286 medalists, visit International Competition Grenaches du Monde Medalists 

LEARN MORE | OTHER LINKS

Link to INTRODUCTION TO GARNACHA/GRENACHE

Link for GARNACHA/GRENACHE BACKGROUND INFORMATION

Link to Wines of Garnacha/Grenache Infographics

Link to GarnachaGrenache 

What’s your vice? Consider The Vice wines your next vice.

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What’s your vice? For Malek Amrani and his wife, Tori Greenberg, the answer is wine. A former sales professional for Moet Hennessy and Diageo, Malek has a keen understanding of the wine world and consumer preferences. He also counts pizza and triathlons among his “moral faults”, while Tori’s other vices include fashion, sleep and rose.

The pair always dreamed of owning their own winery and now they do. In fact, while they launched The Vice several years ago, they recently opened a permanent location in St. Helena in the Napa Valley, further cementing their dream.

On the joint holidays of National Wine Day and National Chardonnay Day, Malek hosted a virtual tasting with members of the media to celebrate the opening as well as the release of their 100th wine. As a self-defined “luxury wine brand,” the wines are produced in small, numbered batches.

Primarily focused on Napa Valley terroir, The Vice’s mission is to make exceptional wines accessible. In pursuit of this goal, Malek currently works with 18 different varieties, sourced from 14 of Napa’s 16 AVAs. Their white label wines are their house tier, while the black label is reserved for single vineyard wines.

Among the most recent batches is the aforementioned 100th wine. Aptly named The Napa Dream (and also referred to as Batch #100), it is a Chardonnay sourced from a Certified Napa Green vineyard situated “at the far eastern edge of Los Carneros AVA”. It spent 30 months in new French Oak barrels.

TASTING NOTES

The Vice The Napa Dream Batch #100 Chardonnay 2020, Los Carneros (CA), USA, $46.00
This wine is deep golden yellow with nutty, butterscotch aromas that persist on the dry, rich full-bodied palate. It has bright acidity and flavors of roasted nuts, caramel, citrus and minerality, culminating in long length. Lovely and complex.

The Vice Orange of Viognier ‘Brooklynites 6.0’ 2022, California, USA, $33.00
With Viognier grapes sourced from Napa’s Oak Knoll District and Brentwood, Contra Costa, this wine brings together two different climates and thus a diversity of expression. It offers up floral and peach aromas, which persist on the palate with fresh acidity, medium body and long length. It is really refreshing, easy to drink (too easy!?!) and food friendly.

The Vice The OG, Cabernet Franc 2021, Los Carneros (CA), USA, $54.00
As Malek shared at the event, Cabernet Franc is fast becoming the hottest grape in Napa Valley (more so than Cabernet Sauvignon). Leafy and cranberry aromas greet the nose, with a dry palate, bright acidity, medium+ body and flavors of wet leaves and plum, with long length. Powerful, yet balanced.