Category Archives: Wine

Table set, match: A meeting of the food and wine minds of Janssens and Kornack

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Two trailblazing women joined forces last week for a one-of-a-kind dinner featuring the incredible wines of Robert Mondavi Winery (produced under the direction of Chief Winemaker Genevieve Janssens) and the exquisite food of Chef Elise Kornack. Both women have distinguished themselves in their respective fields, earning well deserved and well-earned accolades and awards.

 

 

 

Marrying their individual expertise, Genevieve and Elise collaborated on an amazing menu that paired harmoniously with the wines. In speaking about the partnership, Elise explained that it had been a wonderful opportunity “to partner with someone who loves what she does as much as I do,” and noted that the experience working together had been quite fun, providing her with a different perspective as she considered the food in context with the wines.

Originally from France, Genevieve was born into a viticultural family and studied with many luminous wine professionals including Emile Peymaud, eventually earning a Diploma of Enology at the University of Bordeaux. News about the exciting things going on in the Napa Valley and, in particular, at Robert Mondavi Winery, inspired her to arrive on Mondavi’s doorstep in 1978. She was promptly hired as a lab technician by his Chief Enologist, Zelma Long, another pioneering woman in the industry. Although that initial post lasted only a year, Genevieve returned to work closely with Mondavi for several decades, including a ten-year stint at Opus One Winery, a joint venture between Mondavi and the Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Château Mouton Rothschild. During that time, she rose to the rank of Chief Winemaker for Robert Mondavi Winery. Among her numerous honors, Genevieve was named Wine Enthusiast‘s  2010 Winemaker of the Year and was recognized by the French government as an “Officier” of the The Ordre National du Mérite Agricole.

In keeping with Mondavi’s emphasis on food and wine pairing, the winery recently partnered with the James Beard Foundation to create a five-year scholarship for the advancement of wine education in the U.S. Accordingly, as a thrice nominated James Beard “Rising Star Chef,” it was especially fitting for Elise to have been chosen as Chef for the dinner event. Previously, Elise created the Michelin-starred restaurant Take Root in Brooklyn, which she ran from 2013-2017. Recognized as one of Conde Nast’s “10 Young Chefs to Watch,” among her lengthy list of superlatives; last year, Elise and her wife moved to the Catskills region in upstate New York, where she is at work on a new restaurant in Phoenicia. (As a part-time resident of Saugerties, NY, I am eagerly anticipating its opening.)

As she spoke about her approach to food, Elise shared her preference for humble ingredients, varied textures, earthy flavors and notes of nostalgia, as we head into the fall and winter seasons. But, while her palate colors and flavors might be “humble,” – starring such vegetables as rutabaga, celery and turnips – she elevates them to high art on the plate.

The meal opened with a dish comprised of celery, turnip and pear with ginger, almond and sheep’s milk cheese, served alongside the 2016 Robert Mondavi Winery Chardonnay Reserve, Carneros, CA, Napa Valley. The crunchy texture of the vegetables balanced well with the creaminess of the cheese, while the acidity of the wine provided a lovely counterpoint, along with the interplay of the slight woody notes of the wine with the ginger and almond on the plate.

The second course featured beluga lentils and wild mushrooms with cranberry, coffee and truffle, presented with the 2015 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Franc, Oakville, Napa Valley and 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa Valley. I especially enjoyed the herbaceous character of the Cabernet Franc with the rich, earthy flavors of the mushrooms and truffles as well as the echoed notes of fruitiness between the wine and cranberry.

The third plate brought together New York strip, rutabaga and a sauce of smoked corn, peppercorn and mustard seed, paired with a duo of Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignons: 2015 The Reserve To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville, Napa Valley and 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Napa Valley. Genevieve explained that 2015 had been a drought year, yielding highly concentrated wines, with firm tannins, yet a softness as well. In this regard, the wine was a perfect example of Mondavi’s philosophy to, “Make Cabernet Sauvignon as soft as a baby’s bottom and powerful as Pavarotti.” While both wines were absolutely beautiful, I favored the 2008 for its development and tertiary aromas, though still quite fresh at ten years old.

Noting that she was a big fan of cream pies, the meal concluded with Elise’s riff on one that included apple and fig leaf with seeds, tumeric and honey, served with the 2017 Robert Mondavi Winery Moscato d’Oro, Napa Valley. The pie was creamy, yet light, and was well matched with the acidity and sweetness of the dessert wine.

During the reception, we had the opportunity to taste the Fumé Blanc (aka Sauvignon Blanc) Reserve 2016 To Kalon Vineyard, Napa Valley. This wine, along with the 2015 Cab Sav we tasted, hail from the famed To Kalon vineyard, which is Greek for beautiful. First planted (and named) in the late 1800s by Hamilton Walker Crabb, an early Napa pioneer, the vineyard was initially re-established by Mondavi on a 12-acre site. Today, the historic property, known for its optimum conditions, now comprises 550 acres, with 435 under Mondavi’s ownership.

As the evening winded down, it was clear that the food and wine had been impeccable, made more so not only by the intentional collaboration between Genevieve and Elise, but also by the collegial atmosphere in which they had been served; an experience that will not be easily matched.

Cantina Tramin’s Epokale, where past and present meet at the peak of perfection

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The region of Alto Adige, in northeast Italy, greets visitors with its snow-topped peaks, verdant mountains and Swiss chalet-style architecture. These hills are alive with the sound of viticulture, having produced highly regarded, quality wines as far back as 500 BCE, thanks to the ingenuity of the indigenous Rhaetian people.

The region was further influenced by the Romans who arrived on the scene in 15 BCE. As a result, the local village of Tramin took its name from the Latin word for border and later gave its name to an indigenous variety grown in the area for centuries. With the German “er” suffix indicating origin from Tramin) the grape was first called Traminer, and later earned the prefix of gewürz, which is German for spice.

Among the many producers in the region, the small cooperative of Cantina Tramin is deeply rooted in the community. Founded in 1898, it was during the early 1990s that the members of the cooperative made the conscious decision to pursue a quality agenda, making changes in the vineyards, the winery and staff, namely bringing on Willi Stürz as both winemaker and Technical Director. In the wake of this commitment, his efforts were rewarded with the title of “Winemaker of the Year” in 2004 by Italian wine guide, Gambero Rosso.

Since then, Cantina Tramin continues to be well regarded for its wines and, in particular, for its Gewürztraminer.  As the area’s most historic and important variety, Cantina Tramin is keen to preserve and promote Gewürztraminer and presently manages 57 hectares of Gewürztraminer vines, representing 22% of the coop’s plantings, as compared to just under 11% for the region as a whole.

In pursuit of this passion for Gewürztraminer, Cantina Tramin expanded its Gewürztraminer range with the recent launch of Epokale. With its name taken from the root of epoch – a period – the intent was to create a wine similar in style to those produced in the past, but that have been lost with time. This traditional, semi-sweet wine was made from grapes from two of the oldest vineyards and is a late harvest, Spatlese-level wine, deliberately harvested with only limited botrytis (about 10% were affected by noble rot).

First produced in 2009, this wine made its debut last year, after having spent seven years aging in an abandoned silver mine in Val Ridanna, situated at 2,000 meters above sea level. The mine provided perfect conditions: correct and consistent temperature and humidity, along with constant pressure, which ensured that no tartrates were formed. The wine was initially crafted and then bottled at the winery, with the individual bottles brought up to the mine’s caves for its period of aging. Only 1200 bottles of the maiden vintage were produced.

In recognition of its sheer perfection, this wine was recently awarded 100 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. This is a tremendous honor that goes beyond simply receiving a perfect score in that it is the first time at all that the publication has awarded such a score to an Italian white wine. And, also marks the first time this score has been awarded to a wine from outside Piedmont and Tuscany. In fact, of the over 35.000 Italian wines tasted by Wine Advocate, only 14 have received the top score and most of these are Barolo and Brunello wines.

Not surprisingly, this exciting and well-deserved news has been happily received by the winery’s personnel. Wolfgang Klotz, Marketing and Sales Director at Cantina Tramin, called it “A historic touchdown,” noting that, “We are very proud to have brought this recognition to Alto Adige Region.” Similarly, Willi Stürz acknowledged that, “We are honored of receiving such a score. A great satisfaction that I want to share with our 150 associated families and all the team at the winery,” further adding that, “Many might have considered Epokale project a hazard. We are very happy our efforts have been understood and fully rewarded.”

Finding balance at Feudi di San Gregorio

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As with much of life, it is all about achieving balance; finding harmony between two opposing points. Too often, balance is elusive and, perhaps, perfect balance is unattainable. Yet, we would all agree it is a worthy goal. Balance might even be considered laughable in the context of a C-level executive, but that’s precisely what Antonio Capaldo, Chairman of Feudi di San Gregorio, strives to achieve. At a recent dinner, he continually circled back to this word – and to this concept of striking a balance between competing polarities and viewpoints – all to the good of his company and the wines it produces.

Situated within the Italian region of Campania, home to Naples and the Amalfi Coast, Feudi di San Gregorio was established in 1986, although winemaking in the region dates back to the 12th century BCE, influenced by the Greeks, Romans and Byzantines. Capaldo joined the family business in 2009 after a decade-long career in finance and management consulting, having earned a PhD in Economics and Finance from a joint program between London School of Economics and University of Rome. Concurrently, he balanced his time between work and “play”, successfully pursuing his sommelier certification, thus bringing the dual perspectives of business acumen and wine knowledge to his role.

At a production of 3.5 million bottles annually, today, Feudi is the largest winery in Southern Italy, excluding Sicily. Yet, in spite of its size relative to its neighbors, it is still considered to be medium in size. It is this balance between being an artisanal producer and a large corporation, that Capaldo attributes to their success. In this regard, they have the resources to continually learn and evolve and pass that knowledge down to subsequent generations as well as the advantage of being more than one person’s impact or vision. Simultaneously, they are small enough to be nimble and responsive to the market.

Their size has also given them the opportunity to drive quality throughout the region. Having brought in the expertise of Simonit and Sirch, they instituted a pruning school for local growers (Feudi buys 30-40% of its grapes) and have dramatically shifted the way in which they pay them. Specifically, they no longer reward growers for volume, instead paying them based on the quality of the fruit they deliver. In order to do so, they balance the risk and reward, overcoming the growers’ objectives to keeping grapes on the vine longer due to threat of rain or other weather hazards. While this has been an expensive proposition, the quality of the grapes has vastly improved.

Balance is also extremely important when discussing the impact of hospitality at the winery. Capaldo notes that world class hospitality is vital to the winery, especially given its proximity to such tourist destinations as Positano and Pompeii, and it now welcomes 40,000 visitors each year. While many of them come expressly for the wine, others are drawn to the winery’s Michelin-starred restaurant and only later discover that it is connected to the winery. Consequently, while winery tours should extoll the virtues of the winery’s restaurant, world-class architectural design and esteemed collection of artwork, their tour guides must be equally trained (and remember) to speak about the winery and its wines.

Capaldo further underscores the need for balance in the vineyard. When answering a question about sustainable practices, he acknowledges that while they aspire to be organic, the climate makes this impossible to commit to fully. Accordingly, their philosophy is to be sustainable in all things – with a decided emphasis on sustaining the vines themselves. In this regard, he notes that there is often a need to replant every 30 years or so in organically-certified vineyards. With so many historic vines under his purview – Capaldo proudly shared a photo of the 100+ year-old vines in the Serpico vineyard – he feels the duty to preserve vines not just for decades, but for centuries.

Vinously, the winery provides a balance in the 25 or so wines it creates, offering up the popular and approachable Falanghina, alongside the more structured Greco di Tufo and Fiano d’Avellino wines. Capaldo also balances the need to age the reds for long periods of time before release (adding to his expense and the wine’s price) with getting the wines into the market. But, errs on the side of quality, choosing to age his wines longer than the denomination rules require.

Personally, Capaldo admits that balance is hard. He recognizes that he comes from a background of control and is aiming to do a better job of letting go – taking time for family, allowing others to handle various business matters and letting go of the things beyond his control such as vintage variations and their impact on the wines. Watching him during dinner, it is clear that he practices what he preaches, finding a balance in all things: his wife had accompanied him on this trip (and to the dinner), he carefully selected gluten-free options, barely touched his wines and finished his meal with a decadent chocolate dessert!

TASTING NOTES
When we speak of a great glass of wine, we frequently consider the balance between fruit and tannins, between sweetness and acidity and in not having too much oak or alcohol. The wines of Feudi definitely deliver in being well-balanced wines. My tasting notes are a bit sparse from the evening, but it was a pleasure to be reacquainted with these wines I had last tasted in June 2016.

Feudi di San Gregorio Sannio Falanghina DOC 2017, Campania, Italy
Fresh fruit and floral aromas and flavors, with nice acidity, medium body and just generally easy and fun to drink.

Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo DOCG 2017, Campania, Italy
Grown in high elevation vineyards, the fruit is all hand harvested due to the steep terrain. Despite the lack of oak or skin contact, Greco produces structured wines, with limited fruit character and a beautiful ability to pair well at the table. I enjoyed it equally with the fried zucchini as I did with the duck breast.

Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi DOCG 2013, Campania, Italy
This wine spends 18 months in oak with another 9 months in bottle. It displayed lots of bright acidity, with aromas and flavors of cherry, spice and other red fruit, with firm tannins on the full-bodied palate. It was easier to drink than the Riserva 2012 but I would appreciate it more in the future, when the tannins will have had more time to soften (and deeply regretted that I hadn’t ordered a steak for dinner; Capaldo suggests that the best pairing is lamb, but the evening’s menu did not include any).

Feudi di San Gregorio Piano di Montevergine Taurasi Riserva DOCG 2012, Campania, Italy 
With its longer aging requirements, this wine is aged in oak for 18 to 24 months, with an additional 24 months in bottle, the lengthy period of time stabilizing the wine before its release. Not surprisingly, this wine displayed even firmer tannins and more overt use of oak, but was still redolent of beautiful fruit and acidity.

Vintae, in search of Spain’s greatest hits

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Ricardo Arambarri is a man on a mission: scouring Spain for great grapes and sharing them with the world. Fortunately, he seems to have the energy and stamina to do so. In fact, he admitted that his energy is often too much for his girlfriend, so she is thankful that he “lives on the plane,” she can catch up on sleep while he is traveling.

Energy aside, despite being born and raised in the heart of the Rioja wine region, Ricardo’s vinous destiny was not assured. Yes, his family had been tending to their own vineyards in the region for generations, but, Ricardo’s dad, José Miguel Arambarri, detested working in the field and left Logroño in order to pursue a more satisfying career. However, in the late 1990s, José Miguel decided to invest in the family business and returned home to reinvigorate the vineyards.

As a young man, Ricardo, too, was anxious to leave his small town and see the world, studying first in Barcelona and then settling in Texas after graduation. His plan was to eventually move to New York, but as they say, the best laid plans… Unfortunately, José Miguel suffered a stroke (he has since fully recovered), forcing Ricardo to head back to Spain.

But, the upside of that tragedy was that he was inspired to create a company focused on making quality wine in Spain. Now, ten years on, Vintae produces wines in 15 different regions, expanding the portfolio as they explore up-and-coming areas. The company’s overarching philosophy is to show the diversity of Spain, while providing wines that are accessible to consumers, easy to enjoy and drinkable upon release.

With an MBA under his belt, Ricardo serves as CEO and is responsible for the business-side of Vintae’s operations, while his business partner serves as Technical Director, overseeing decisions in the vineyards. As the company continues to collaborate with its various growers, they are particularly driven by a goal of becoming 100% organic in the near future.

Beyond this specific goal, Ricardo and, by extension, Vintae, is firmly focused on the future of Spain and its wines, looking for opportunities to capitalize on its improved quality. In particular, he sees an upsurge in the prestige with Spanish whites, especially those from the Atlantic coastal areas such as Galicia. Consequently, Vintae launched its Atlantis range in 2015, which features whites from these regions. Its Albarino from Rias Baixas is sourced fruit from the sunnier (hence warmer and drier) sub-region of Condado de Tea. The range also includes a Hondarrabi Zuri from Txakoli, Godello from Valdoeras and Treixadura from Ribeiro.

Given the Arambarri’s Rioja heritage, it is not surprising that Rioja figures prominently in the company’s portfolio, with Hacienda Lopez de Haro added as early as 2003. Ricardo refers to these wines as being of the “contemporary classic style,” marrying the classic style of long aging in American oak, with the more fruit forward styles of the 1990s. He further notes that theirs has finesse, elegance and a good balance between fruit and oak, with a preference for aging the wines in used barrels.

Another lesser-known region where Vintae has been particularly active is Toro. This region is situated in Castilla y Leon and is known for its powerful wines produced from the Tempranillo grape, here called Tinta de Toro. Yet, in keeping with Vintae’s vinous aesthetic, they seek to craft wines that are more approachable than traditional Toro. To do so, they harvest early, shorten maceration times and ferment in concrete tanks, resulting in Toro wines that have been accused of being “too Rioja!”

But, if their production of Toro wines is less than conventional, their appreciation for the terroir, its preponderance of pre-phylloxera vines and its hardworking people is no less intense. In homage to the men and women who toil in Toro – which is known for having nine months of winter and three months of hell – their Matsu range (from the Japanese word for “wait”) fondly features photos of local grape growers on its labels.

Not content to conquer Spain, Vintae has also turned its attention to Chile, launching its Kudaw range also in 2015. But, it is clear that Ricardo continues to set his sights on new and novel areas of Spain, so it is likely that Vintae’s Spanish portfolio will grow further in time, fueled by his incessant energy and lots of time on a plane.

TASTING NOTES
Atlantis Albarino 2017, Rias Baixas, Spain, $14.99
This wines displays lovely minerality and a slightly marine character, along with fresh citrus, ripe apple, an unctuous texture and long length.

Bodega Classica Lopez de Haro Reserva 2013, Rioja, Spain, $17.99
Ricardo explained that 2013 was a cold vintage, resulting in lighter style wines, which I found to be a really elegant expression in the glass with aromas and flavors of spice, oak, and strawberry on the dry, medium-bodied palate.

Bodega Classica Lopez de Haro Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja, Spain, $28.99
Hailing from a warmer vintage and the recipient of longer oak aging, this wine offered up darker red fruit, more overt oak, fuller body and a more structured palate.

Matsu El Recio 2016, Toro, Spain, $24.99
Produced from 90- to 100-year old vines, this wine spent 14 months in used French oak barrels. Aromas of spice, black fruit and floral persisted on the palate, with long length.

Matsu El Viego 2015, Toro, Spain, $59.99
This wine is made from a selection of the best grapes from 100+-year-old vineyards. Powerful and intense with black fruit, spice, firm tannins, fresh acidity and full body, culminating in long length.

Maxville, the final (vinous) frontier for George Bursick

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One of the beautiful things about wine is the way it brings people together. Sitting around with a glass or two (or more …) provides the opportunity to talk about the wine in question, but it just as easily opens the door for conversations about nearly anything. Such was the case when I met George Bursick, the new Executive Winemaker for Maxville Winery. His warmth is infectious, making you feel at ease and at home in his company and we shared lots of stories ranging from retirement destinations, home renovation projects, cheesecake recipes and dogs.

But, of course, we did also talk about wine. Graduating from what he refers to as the “famous UC Davis class of ’76,” George left the program with a master’s degree in Enology and quickly found work as winemaker for McDowell Valley Vineyards in Mendocino County. He then distinguished himself in the Sonoma Valley, with posts at Ferarri-Carano (where he was instrumental in building its varietal portfolio) and then at J Vineyards and Winery (expanding his repertoire to cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), repeatedly earning top marks for his wines.

He left J Vineyards in 2011 to focus full-time on his wine consulting business, but, more recently, has been lured to that “other” valley by an opportunity, which he describes as his last vinous frontier – crafting Napa Valley Cabs. When asked why, he promptly replied, “Why not?” But, clarified his answer, noting that the chance to work with such great fruit in such an historic setting, coupled with the high end set up at Maxville, was just too exciting to pass up.

The 1,000-acre historic estate was once the site of a children’s summer camp and then home to Catacula Lake Winery, but was derelict for many years before it was purchased three years ago by Qinghai Huzhu Barley Wine Co., Ltd. in Haidong in China. Seeing the property’s great potential, the Chinese company spared no expense in outfitting the winery with top of the line equipment. It was this investment that was a big part of the appeal for George.

George is also enthusiastic about Maxville’s location in the Chiles Valley. A sub-appellation of the Napa Valley, Chiles Valley AVA was established in 1999, but its first vineyards were planted as early as the mid-1800s, and the Maxville site is part of the original land grant given to Joseph Chiles in 1844. Now home to some of the oldest vines in Napa County, the distinctive valley offers up high elevations that help to temper the climate and provide good diurnal variation, along with a long growing season that permits the vines to thrive and the grapes to reach full maturity.

With 100 acres of vines currently planted, and another 40 acres planned, Maxville relies solely on estate-grown fruit to produce its wines. Even at its current size, George acknowledges that not all of the fruit is worthy of the winery’s top wines and thus, they are launching a secondary label, Big Max, which will permit them to produce Napa Valley wines under $30.00. These wines are set to hit the market early in 2019.

And, as George begins to more fully understand the vineyards under his purview, he is exploring the use of different clones and seeing how these vines marry with the estate’s terroir. He is similarly energized about having these various clones as part of the ingredients from which to craft his wines in the state-of-the-art winery.

When asked about this greater reliance on winemaking technology since his days at Davis, George reflected that the bar has been considerably raised. He explained that, back then, it was enough to make reasonably good wine, but today’s consumer expects the highest quality. He feels that the technological tools help make that possible, but he also adds that, with this high-tech equipment, they have given him enough rope… If he can’t produce top wines with all of these bells and whistles at his disposal, he knows that his time at Maxville will be short.

Despite the possible pressure, George is thrilled about this new challenge and eager to put his personal stamp on the wines. In particular, he advised that his predecessor produced wines more Bordelais in style and noted that, having written his graduate thesis on Factors affecting Wine Body, he brings a fatness or heft to his wines, a style he will apply to the Maxville wines going forward.

When not immersed in winemaking, George likes to take the time to appreciate the non-vinous aspects of the Maxville estate, extolling its virtues as a peaceful, Buddhist-like sanctuary, complete with a large lake. The property also boasts a cook’s kitchen and guest entertainment such as ATVs and archery, but of course, these pursuits must be enjoyed before tasting the wines.

TASTING NOTES
In between our lively conversation over lunch, we tasted through the current selection of Maxville’s wines:

Maxville Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $33.99
Produced from the Musque clone, this wine was fresh and bright with slight floral and citrus aromas, with a dry palate displaying lovely, intense citrus and long length.

Maxville Cabernet Franc 2014, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $66.99
This wine is a blend of 90% Cabernet Franc, with the remainder given over to Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. As vintages permit, George expects to increase the percentage of Cab Franc going forward and recently planted three different clones of the variety. With lush black fruit aromas, the wine offered up notes of boysenberry, black fruit, with just a hint of Cab Franc’s signature herbaceous character, balanced with nice acidity and a full body.

Maxville Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $66.99
Compared to the Cabernet Franc, the Cabernet Sauvignon was a more structured wine, with darker black fruit aromas and flavors, firm tannins. It also showed good acidity and long length.

Maxville Petite Sirah 2014, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $66.99
Maxville only produces a small quantity of this wine, given its tannic nature and need for lengthy aging to tame the tannins. It offered up lots of red fruit and was quite spicy on the nose and palate.

Celebrating Carpene-Malvolti because life is better with bubbles

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I have always held the personal belief that everything is better that sparkles – water, wine, personalities and diamonds! And, lately, the world seems to agree with me. While consumption of red and white still wine remains flat (pun intended), the consumption of sparkling wine has risen dramatically since 2009 and is expected to grow annually by nearly 6% from 2018-2021, indicating significant increased interest in bubbles.*

But it is important to remember that just because it sparkles, it isn’t necessarily Champagne! Only those wines that come from the specific Champagne region in France deserve that title. And, although  Champagne has certainly become a benchmark for quality sparkling wine, there are lots of other wonderful options out there, many of which come from their own distinct place,  such as Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France), Cava (Catalonia, Spain) and Prosecco (Veneto and Friuli, Italy). Yes, it is a lot to remember, but there is a method to this “madness.” In fact, it is this combination of terroir (soil, climate, cultivation…) and the production process, which is precisely responsible for the resulting wines.

To add another layer of confusion, there are actually two types of Prosecco: Prosecco DOC and Prosecco Superiore DOCG. While both Prosecco designations are made from the Glera grape, using the Charmat Method (which retains the bouquet of this aromatic variety), the two demarcated areas differ. I won’t belabor these points here because I’ve written about them already (Prosecco, Prosecco Superiore and Slowing Down in Asolo); however, it is important to recognize where Prosecco got its start. And, it is fitting to do so as we celebrate the 150th anniversary of Carpène-Malvolti winery and recognize its  important contribution to this wine.

In 1868, viticulturist and winemaker, Antonio Carpenè, crafted the first sparkling wine from what was then called the Prosecco grape, having spent time and effort in perfecting the Charmat method to beautiful effect with the local variety.

Formally trained as a chemist, Antonio was a committed scientist, studying with Louis Pasteur in Montpellier as well as other top scientists throughout Europe in order to expand his knowledge. I suppose given this dedication, one shouldn’t be surprised that Antonio named his sixth-born child, Etile, from the Italian word for ethyl alcohol (and perhaps sealing his fate for a career in the family business). Equally unsurprising, his wife, Teresa, nixed the name Enocianina (meaning oenocyanin,a tannin product from grape skins) for his first daughter, who thankfully was called Maria, instead.

With his background in higher education – Antonio served as a professor of natural sciences at Bosisio College of Monza and at the Royal Agricultural School of Conegliano – he saw the need to apply science and rigorous study to viticulture and enology, and established the first school of its kind in Italy, in 1876.

As the years progressed, Carpenè-Malvolti continued to produce its sparkling wine, first labeling it as Champagne Italiano (a term no longer permitted), until 1924, when Etile changed the name to Prosecco, decades before the creation of the actual DOC. This was also the same year that the Enological School was inaugurated at its current site.

Today, the winery remains within the Carpenè family since its founding, alternating given names from Antonio to Etile, with each subsequent generation. Its current management includes members of the 4th and 5th generation, while a member of the 6th generation (presently only two years old) is potentially poised to take over in the future 😊.

Aside from the family, Domenico Scimone holds the post of General Manager and has been with the company for six years. Despite this relatively short tenure in the company’s history, he is extremely effusive about it and its past. Carpenè’s U.S. importer, Julius Angelini, has actually been involved with the winery for much  longer, having been the first to bring the wine to America in the 1990s.

To commemorate this important milestone, Carpenè is releasing a small production (10,000 bottles) wine, which mimics the original wine in its blend. While Carpenè’s modern wines are all 100% Glera (rules permit up to 15% other grapes), this small batch, called “1924,” will bring together 90% Glera with 10% of other permitted varieties.

Overall, Carpenè-Malvolti has a varied portfolio of both sparkling wines and spirits. Among the sparklers, they produce Prosecco Superiore in Brut, Dry and Extra Dry styles as well as a Cartizze wine (the cru of Prosecco Superiore) and PVXINVM Vino Pucinum, taken from the name given to the local wine by Pliny the Elder during Roman times. In addition, they also make Prosecco DOC, a Traditional Method sparkler and a Rose Spumante (see tasting note below).

*For detailed information and statistics on the rise of sparkling wine production and consumption, please see: OIV State of the Viticulture World Market, Statista Sparkling Wine and Sparkling Wines: global trends and challenges.

TASTING NOTES
I had the opportunity to taste two of its wines at a recent lunch event.

Carpenè-Malvolti 1868 Extra Dry Prosecco di Conegliano NV, Veneto, Italy, $16.00
A really lovely sparkler with a nice, gentle mousse, good fruit on the nose and palate with notes of white flowers, pear and a hint of marzipan, culminating in long length.

Carpenè-Malvolti Rosé Spumante Brut, NV, Veneto, Italy, $17.00
Produced from a blend of local grape, Raboso, from Treviso and Pinot Noir from Trentino, this wine is beautifully dry, with crisp acidity, just a hint of fruit and was perfect  with lunch.

The Sheer Perfection of Sherry

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Although Sherry Week was celebrated earlier this month, Sherry deserves to be celebrated all year round. If you associate Sherry with old-fashioned, sweet, cloying wines suitable only for grandma, you need to update your thinking. This fortified wine (meaning that alcoholic spirit has been added to it) offers up a diversity of styles, is at home with a wide range of foods and is usually well priced. In other words, it is sheer perfection in a glass!

Yes, Sherry can be an unusual wine if you are unfamiliar with it. But if you know what to expect and go in with an open mind, you just might be pleasantly surprised. Such was the case when we hosted our friends for dinner during which they tentatively tasted two Fino Sherries and were immediately hooked.

Overall, Sherry is quite complex due to its lengthy and complicated production process. Without going into too elaborate of an explanation, it is enough to know that 1) Sherry is produced solely in the Jerez region of Spain and 2) that its various styles can be categorized as being either aged biologically (under the influence of an indigenous yeast called flor, which protects the wine from oxidation) and those that are aged oxidatively (without flor).

Biologically aged Sherries include Finos and Manzanillas (a subset of Finos, which come from the seaside town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda). As fortified wines, these types of Sherries are on the lower side of the alcoholic range, generally coming in at 15-16% ABV (alcohol by volume), so they are not much higher than that California Cab you drank last night. More importantly, thanks to their exposure to flor, these delicate Sherries display a unique yeasty and lightly nutty aroma and flavor profile.

On their own, their unique characteristics can be a bit overwhelming, but when paired with food, they really sing. Taking inspiration from the wines themselves as well as our recent return from Spain, I put together an assortment of small dishes – tapas – to enjoy with our friends:

  • An unctuous, fuet sausage
  • Firm and nutty Manchego cheese (aged for 12 months)
  • Patatas Bravas – crispy potatoes with a spicy tomato-based sauce
  • Roasted red peppers in olive oil
  • Shrimp in garlic and oil
  • Pan con tomate (seen in photo)
  • Anchovies marinated in vinegar

Once it was obvious that our friends were on board with the Sherries, we dug into our meal with gusto, savoring the interaction of the two wines with the various plates and having fun choosing which wine we preferred with which dish.

And, while our meal was limited to Finos, the breadth of Sherry styles provides even greater opportunity for experimentation with options such as Amontillado and Oloroso, both of which are deeper in color, increasingly fuller in body and nuttier in taste. Again, this is an over-simplification; for more details on Sherry and its various styles, check out this website from the Consejo Regulador de las Denominaciones de Origen “Jerez-Xérès-Sherry”.

Finally, as we switched from a savory to a sweet focus, we enjoyed a PX (Pedro Ximenez) dessert-style Sherry thanks to the generosity of our dinner guests. These full-bodied stickies offer up notes such as molasses, toffee and burnt sugar, and served as the perfect accompaniment to the Catalan cheesecake I baked. If you’ve never had Catalan cheesecake, I like to think of it as the love child of flan and traditional cheesecake, which results in a much creamier, silkier texture.

NB: I was determined to find an authentic recipe, so I watched this video, did some conversion calculations and hoped for the best. We were not disappointed! You can check out my version of the recipe.

TASTING NOTES
Tio Pepe Palomino Fino NV, Jerez, Spain, $20.00
Pale in color. Fresh, with slight yeasty and light nutty notes on both the nose and palate, culminating in long length.

Tres Palmas 2016, Fino, Jerez, Spain, $80.00
This wine starts its life as Tio Pepe, but the best barrel(s) are selected for Tres Palmas designation – those that are considered to be of a higher quality. IT has spent an average of ten years aging in American oak casks after having spent time in the initial solera. It was deeper in color, fuller-bodied, richer and nuttier than the Tio Pepe. It was truly lovely!

 

 

Let’s Hear It for the Bees: Sokol Blosser supports sustainability

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I’ve always been a fan of Sokol Blosser Winery and now there is even more to love about this iconic Oregon wine producer: they are doubling-down on their commitment to the earth!

The winery has been a leader in the sustainability movement since the 1970s, but more recently, they have turned their attention to closures. This is not specifically a rehash of the cork vs. screwcap debate, but rather a recognition that cork is not biodegradeable. Yes, it is a renewable resource, but it is precisely because it doesn’t degrade that makes it such a useful option with which to seal wine and other products.

Consequently, in an effort to reduce its environmental impact, Sokol Blosser was the first winery in the world to place an order for DIAM’s newest product Origine by DIAM. The winery is trialing this new closure on a portion (15%) of its 2015 Dundee Hills Estate Pinot Noir, which was released in May (2018). Like DIAM’s other products, Origine is a technical cork, but utilizes a beeswax emulsion and 100% vegetable polyols. This makes it recyclable and, equally important, able to permit the wine to age, without fear of cork taint.

Given the product’s use of beeswax, DIAM has joined in the effort to bolster the honey bee population by investing in beehives in various French wine regions. Sokol Blosser is also showing its support for bees by donating $1 for every bottle sold under the new Origine cork to the Eugene, OR-based Save the Bee organization through April 2019. This funding will help the Oregon State University and Washington State University honeybee labs, which conduct vital research into the declining honey bee population and also teach beekeeping skills to the community.

But, of course, what’s in the bottle is still important. And, make no mistake, Sokol Blosser continues to live up to its reputation as a producer of high quality Pinot Noir!

Sokol Blosser Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 2015, Dundee Hills (OR), USA, $40.00
A beautiful, complex nose with aromas of earth, barnyard and dried cherries gives way to a dry palate with rich, ripe cherry fruit flavors, along with bright acidity, low tannins, medium body and very long length.

 

NB: If you are looking to be more sustainable yourself, here are some ideas of what to do with your own collections of corks: DIY Projects and Cork Recycling Options.

CVNE: The Wine Company from the North of Spain

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CVNE is not just any winery from northern Spain. No, really, it is the winery from northern Spain. The name CVNE, pronounced Q-nay, is actually an acronym: Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana, which literally translates as “Wine Company from the North of Spain.”

Admittedly it might not have been the most original moniker when the company was founded in 1879, but the nondescript name actually suits the winery just fine. As Victor Urrutia Ybarra, its current CEO, asserts, a great winery is much more than a family name or dynasty or as the work of a specific winemaker. Rather, its products continually deliver on quality unrelated to the particular people behind the bottle. That being said, CVNE’s winemakers hang around a long time; there have only been five in its 100-plus year history.

And, while Victor is a part of CVNE’s heritage (he is a member of the fifth generation of the founding family), he took the job practically kicking and screaming all the way. Well, not really, but he was certainly a reluctant bride to the CVNE bridegroom, agreeing first to a single-year contract to see if it would work out. This was followed by a second, and then a third, single-year contract, by which time, he realized that he enjoyed the role after all. And, he has stepped into the position as if born to it (which perhaps he was).

Despite his initial reluctance, his arrival on the CVNE scene was well-timed and well-played. Bringing his expertise and training as a management consultant (he worked in Brazil for a U.S. consulting firm prior to joining CVNE), he has dramatically transformed the brand, raising its prominence both in Spain and globally over the past 15 years.

His marketing and business acumen led him to focus first on building out the export side when he took over. These efforts have been buoyed by the buying up of distribution channels and, more recently, with an expansion of the brand. This latter endeavor has been primarily centered on the purchase of abandoned vineyards and undervalued properties, especially in emerging regions. Consequently, CVNE now produces wine in Galicia, Ribera del Duero and in Catalonia, thanks to the acquisition of a Cava producer.

But, business know-how can only take you so far. It is through these changes, coupled with the company’s continued commitment to quality, that CVNE has garnered significant success. Among its many awards, was the recognition of its Imperial Gran Reserva 2004 as the #1 Wine of the Year (in 2013) by Wine Spectator magazine, the first time that a wine from Spain received this honor, further elevating the brand’s reputation and reach. The winery has also been ranked among the top 100 wineries in the world by Wine & Spirits Magazine.

Such kudos echo the company’s earliest praise, having received Gold Medals at the 1889 International Exhibition in Paris, and at the 1890 International Exhibition in Antwerp as well as taking the Grand Prix at the Paris International Exhibition in 1900. The company’s current connection to its historical roots underscore Victor’s admonition that, “What defines our future is in our past.”

A prime example of this mantra is CVNE’s Monopole Clasico. First produced in 1915, it lays claim to being the oldest white wine brand in Spain. This unusual white was made with a small addition of Sherry to the blend, with the intent to counteract the low potential alcohol levels of the grapes at harvest and give it more backbone, which it did, along with a unique signature thanks to the Sherry’s yeastiness. Unfortunately, the wine fell out of fashion during the 1980s and CVNE stopped making altogether. However, thanks to interest from a visitor to the winery, they were inspired to reintroduce the wine, employing the original winemaker, Ezekiel, to teach them how to make it.

Another element of CVNE that marries its present with its past is its cellar, which has the rare distinction of having been designed by Gustav Eiffel. While previously, the winery wasn’t open to tourists, CVNE has gone all-in regarding wine tourism, welcoming 30,000 visitors annually, with time in the cellar featuring prominently in the visit. And, more recently, Victor purchased a derelict castle nearby, at which he plans to develop a more intimate tourist experience, along with a small winery, further adding to the company’s emphasis on welcoming the world at its door.

With its dedication to high quality wine production, sound and savvy business practices and a desire to grow strategically, CVNE is poised to not only sustain its current level of success, but, perhaps, to surpass it. Yet, as it extends its expansion outside of Rioja (aka the North of Spain), it might have to rethink its name ;-).

TASTING NOTES
Monopole Clasico Blanco Seco 2014, Rioja, Spain, $27.00
Given its inclusion of Sherry wine, this is not a true white Rioja, but that doesn’t make it any less delicious and, in fact, I was extremely impressed with its freshness and complexity. Dry, with bright acidity, apple and a hint of floral, culminating in long length.  It also has the ability to age with time.

Viña Real Crianza 2015, Rioja, Spain, $17.00
Hailing from a more delicate area within the Rioja region, this wine provides a juicy, fresher and younger expression of Rioja. Bright strawberry aromas and flavors with good acidity, slight oak and vanilla, long length.

Imperial Reserva 2012, Rioja, Spain, $45.00
This wine takes its name from its first bottling back in the 1920s when it was made for the English market and placed into Imperial Pint-sized vessels. Since then, Imperial has only been made in excellent vintages, with the intention of making the very best wine they can. Consequently, it is produced from a careful selection of top grapes from the company’s Rioja Alta vineyards. Notes of Spice, wood, strawberry, oak and clove, with medium acidity, medium body and very long length.

Imperial Gran Reserva 2011, Rioja, Spain, $80.00
As per law, the Gran Reserva spends a longer period of time aging in barrel than the Reserva wine, giving it more time to age and develop before being bottled and, ultimately, released. It also reflects the best selection of grapes. Silky smooth on the palate, this wine is still young, with red fruits, slight woodiness, elegance, finesse and a long finish. And, if that’s not enough to win you over, the 1994 vintage of this wine was served at Crown Prince (now King) Felipe’s royal wedding.

NB: If you are looking for a great place in New York City to try these (and many other Spanish wines), along with delicious tapas (such as those pictured), be sure to check out Casa Mono and its hospitable manager, Jahdea Gildin.

 

At Bodegas Beronia, It’s All About that Barrel

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Back in 1973, a group of friends (in Spain) realized that they loved good food and wine and decided to embark on a joint venture in making wine for themselves. Once they got started, they had way too much wine, so they began gifting the wine to business colleagues and selling to local restaurants.

But, their production levels were still too high for personal consumption, prompting them to look for a commercial partner. In 1982, the group crossed paths with Sherry producer (and wine company) Gonzalez Byass and soon entered into a partnership with them, enabling Bodegas Beronia to grow into a successful, international brand.

Concurrent with the partnership, Matias Calleja joined the team as winemaker and has been with Bodegas Beronia ever since. This year, Calleja will celebrate his 37th vintage with the company, having completed only one harvest elsewhere (in Tarragona, his first). Yet, despite his lengthy tenure, he is still enjoying his post and having fun.

Moreover, Calleja has had a lasting influence on Bodegas Beronia in establishing the winery’s distinctive style. In this regard, he has been at the forefront of how best to impart oak into the wine.

As a wine that requires lengthy aging, Rioja has always been about wood and, in particular, about American oak; there was no use of French oak until the 1970s.  Once both types of wood were in play, for many winemakers, it was a matter of determining the best blend of American and French barrels.

American oak imparts cocoa, mocha and a sweeter note to the wine, while French oak gives more spice, clove, vanilla and pepper notes. Calleja initially tried aging some of the wine in American oak and some in French oak and then, ultimately, blending the wine together. But, the results were less than satisfactory. Instead, he had the brainchild to blend the cask itself; all of the barrel staves are made from American oak (representing about 65% of the barrel), while the top and bottom are made from French oak.

Yet, in spite of all this emphasis on oak, he is adamant that the fruit comes first and the oak must be secondary.  So, while it may seem that it is all about that bass (aka the wood influence); it’s actually all about the fruit!

Calleja’s hybrid barrels are primarily used for the Crianza and Reserva levels of his Rioja, while the Gran Reserva spends 26-28 months in French barrels, since French oak is better for longer-aged wines. As Calleja explained, “It respects the fruit better.” Having the opportunity at a recent press lunch to taste through barrel samples of the same wine aged in three different barrel types was extremely instructive in understanding how the oak shows up in the wine.

In addition to its traditional Riojan reds, Bodegas Beronia also produces a Rueda ($13 SRP) and a Rosé (~$13). For the Rueda, the harvest is intentionally staggered and lees contact is undertaken, both of which add fullness to the wine. Plus, the fermentation temperature is carefully controlled. The result is a wine with good aromatics in addition to a rich and round palate, with medium+ body and freshness. The winery’s rosé has recently undergone a makeover due to demand from the market (the U.S. in particular), evolving from a dark-colored Tempranillo to one with a more Provençal style. The new wine brings together Tempranillo and Garnacha, with only three hours of skin contact, producing a more savory, delicate and drier wine than their previous version, with melon, peach and herbal notes.

RIOJA TASTING NOTES

Bodegas Beronia Reserva 2013, Rioja Spain, $20.00
As a Reserva-level Rioja, this wine  was aged for 20 months in hybrid barrels, before spending an additional two years in bottle. The wine offers up strawberry, black cherry, oak, vanilla and spice aromas with juicy fruit, bright acidity and ripe tannins on the medium+-bodied palate.

Bodegas Beronia Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja Spain, $30.00
Aged for  28 months in French oak, this wine displays beautiful fresh and dried floral aromas along with strawberry, clove and oak, which persist on the palate. It has lovely acidity, a full body and long length.