Are you in an Asti vibe? A recent Masterclass was the perfect opportunity to reacquaint myself with these sweet, sparkling wines from Italy’s Piedmont region. With the goal of transferring the grape to the glass, these wines benefit from the Moscato Bianco grape variety’s highly aromatic character.
Situated within Piedmont is the province of Asti, at the foot of the Italian Alps. The climate is influenced by both the mountains and its proximity to the sea and the soils are comprised of ancient sea beds. Viticulture must be manual due to the significantly steep vineyards. The various altitudes and variety of soils conspire to produce a range of aromatic compounds that provide complexity in the glass.
Here, Moscato Bianco grapes have been grown in the area since 1510, a transplant from the Middle East. There are 51 towns who lay claim to the Moscato d’Asti DOCG, which was the first sparkling wine produced in Italy back in 1865 by Carlo Gancia.
Utilizing the Charmat Method, the wines are pressurized in stainless steel tanks, preserving the aromatics in the wine and adding a slight effervescence, with a maximum of 2 bars of pressure (by contrast Champagne and other fully sparkling wines have 5 yo 6 bars of pressure).
The production method also requires that the wines maintain sweetness. Consequently, they generally range from 120-150 g/l of residual sugar, which is well balanced with sufficient acidity and bubbles. This also means that these wines are much lower in alcohol with 5-6% alcohol by volume.
With this lightness, freshness and lower alcohol, these are great wines for the heat of summer and are a perfect pairing with fruit, light desserts or an excellent counterbalance to a salty, savory dish such as prosciutto with melon.
TASTING NOTES
Coppo Moncalvina Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy Coppo has been making Moscato since day one of the winery, among its other wines. Aromas of floral notes, gardenia and pear greet the nose. The palate is medium sweet, light bodied, with good effervescence and freshness. The acidity and sweetness are well balanced, with flavors of lemon candy and floral, culminating in long length.
Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy At Chiarlo, they take great pride in managing the Moscato vineyards with the same care they give to Barolo vines. The wine displayed lots of visible bubbles, with aromas of peach and blossom. The palate was less sweet than the Coppo, with great acidity, light body, peach flavors, persistent bubbles, and long length.
Caudrina La Caudrina Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy Redolent of honeysuckle, this wine is medium sweet, yet fresh, with lovely effervescence; flavors of honey, honeysuckle and hint of herbs; culminating in medium+ length.
I Vignaioli di Santo Stefano – Ceretto Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy A fresh nose with honey and cantaloupe aromas and flavors, this wine is off dry, with bright and lively acidity on the palate. The mouthwatering character of the wine lingers in the medium+ length.
Marenco Scrapona Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy The mention of Scrapona on the label refers to a specific vineyard from which the grapes for this wine are harvested. Slight skin contact resulting in a hint of color. White flowers, fresh, balanced, lightly sweet, pear, honey, long length with a clean finish.
Earth Day has come and gone, but while the holiday is a reminder that we must protect and cherish our planet, a single day is obviously not enough to do so. To a very real and certain extent, EVERY day should be Earth Day!
Although we can find fault with many industries and organizations, within the world of wine, there are a number of important and impressive examples of wine regions and individual wineries who are making the investment and having an impact with their actions.
In particular, Domaine Bousquet stands as a beacon, having been organic from the “get go”. Along these lines, winery owner, Anne Bouquet refers to herself as an “Organic Revolutionary” and an “International Citizen”, both of which are well deserved and apt descriptors of her commitment to sustainability in all that they do. She is joined by lead winemaker, Rodrigo Serrano, in their quest to lead the region in organic viticulture and sustainability efforts. This “teacher’s soul” has been at the winery for the past five years, and is truly passionate about details in achieving these overarching goals.
The winery has been Certified Organic for over 25 years and has also been certified by Demeter and Biodyvin for its conversion to biodynamic viticulture. They have recently added ROC (regenerative organic certification) certification to their list of organic certifications and are 360 sustainable.
Equally telling, as of this year (2023), they are now a certified B Corp organization. “B Corp Certification is a designation that a business is meeting high standards of verified performance, accountability, and transparency on factors from employee benefits and charitable giving to supply chain practices and input materials.” (From B Lab) Some of their wines also are certified as organic Kosher, Vegan and Gluten-free.
Yet, they are not content to rest on their laurels; future endeavors seek to reduce their CO2 and H2O footprints, especially as there is less snow in the mountains due to climate change.
The winery is also expanding its focus to address other issues such as making low calorie wine, low alcohol wine and organic wine (as opposed to making wine with organic grapes, but with conventional winemaking). In this regard, the biggest challenge is to avoid using SO2, which is an antioxidant and anti-microbial, among other things. These expansions have been challenging, but rewarding as the results are finally realized in the glass.
Across the pond, the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano consortium in Italy’s Tuscany region has been similarly hard at work in pushing a sustainability agenda. The result of its hard work was its award of the Equalitas standard’s sustainability certification, making it the first (and currently only) Italian wine denomination to achieve this milestone. The certification trademark extends to the entire region and is the result of a program initially implemented in the early 1990s and then built upon over the years.
To receive this prestigious certification entails “compliance with a high number of environmental requirements (like biodiversity and the measuring of carbon and water footprints) and socio-economic requirements (like verifying that the principles of freedom of association and equal opportunity are respected).”
Among these efforts, in 2006, the consortium partnered with the municipal government to collect organic waste from the vineyards for use in the production of combustion biomass to supply energy to school and government buildings. Further, the region’s Carbon Footprint project became a national model in 2015.
Of course, these commitments are not at the expense of their commitment to making high quality wine. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is among Italy’s top designated wines having been promoted to DOCG status in 1980. Yet, it often gets overshadowed by its Tuscan neighbors: Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, whose wines also sport the Sangiovese grape.
The good news is that these wines are often well priced and provide great drinking pleasure. So you can feel good about their commitments to the Earth as you enjoy swirling, sipping and savoring them in your glass.
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES: Domaine Bousquet
Domaine Bousquet LO CA Chardonnay 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $14.00 LO CA is a local calorie and low alcohol wine, which required numerous attempts to get it right due to ensure a wine that was stable and of the quality they desired. The resulting wine has 9% abv and 2% residual sugar. Green apple, musk and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate with high acidity, minerality, medium body and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Virgin Red Blend 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $13.00 A combination of 35% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Cabernet Franc, this wine is USDA-certified organic and sulfite-free. A fresh and easy drinking wine, it offers up berries, plum, floral and black cherry, with medium acidity, medium body and good length.
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Pinot Noir 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00 Made with certified organic grapes, this wine took many years to perfect since Anne is very particular about her Pinot Noir. The time and effort were worth it with its complex aromas of smoke, tart cherry, and an earthy undertone. It is medium bodied with bright acidity and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Gran Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00 A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec (both of which are certified organic), this wine presents notes of vanilla, oak, black fruit and a slight leaf character on the nose. With Medium+ body, good acidity, firm ripe tannins, and black and blue fruit, it is ripe yet dry, culminating in long length.
TASTING NOTES: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A recent walk-around tasting event provided attendees with the opportunity to taste through a collection of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines as well as meet a few of the winery representatives.
Maria Stella Carletti, Winemaker at POLIZIANO Winery
Here are a few of my favorites (notes are limited):
Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy 95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot Fresh, with decidedly herbal characteristics, firmer tannins and floral notes.
Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2018, Tuscany, Italy Sangiovese, Canaiolo and other authorized grapes Meatier, with really nice depth and riper fruit.
Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy 70% Sangiovese and other red grape varieties Floral, powerful, with darker fruit, less tannic than some of the other wines.
Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy 90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino With complex notes of smoke, oak, black fruit, it has a lighter structure and texture, with a distinct cherry and leafy palate.
La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy Sangiovese, Merlot Rich and ripe with dark cherry aromas and flavors, firm tannins.
La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2018, Tuscany, Italy Sangiovese, Mammolo Floral with lush, ripe red fruit, soft tannins and long length.
Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy 90-95% Sangiovese, 5-10% other grapes, including Canaiolo and Colorino Cherry and plum, with dusty tannins, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.
Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano S. Caterina 2019, Tuscany, Italy 100% Sangiovese Intense nose and palate, with ripe red fruit and long length.
Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggio Stella 2017, Tuscany, Italy mostly Sangiovese Lovely and soft, with cherries, berries and vanilla.
I’ve noticed an interesting trend recently of food and wine products banding together to take their message to the masses. Case in point, the Charming Taste of Europe Consortium dinner I attended a few weeks ago. I think this is a great idea and, frankly, it makes a lot of sense since it can be challenging to showcase a single product and moreover, we don’t eat and drink in a vacuum.
This type of collaborative effort was also seen at the Mediterranean Aperitivo event, which was held at Eataly Flatiron’s winter wonderland rooftop in mid-December. As I was unable to attend, the organizers offered me the opportunity to recreate the festivities at home and I happily accepted.
Admittedly unsure what to expect, I was pleasantly surprised to receive a cute package revealing Vermouth di Torino PGI, Pecorino Toscana PDO, a Costa d’Amalfi PGI Lemon and Greek olives, along with an informative guide. You’ll spot a lot of letters in the above product names and that’s both intentional and important.
Specifically, PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) are legal terms that mean that the products have been deemed by the European Union to be of high quality and of particular connection to a territory or geographical area. Much like Champagne (a sparkling wine that only comes from the Champagne region in France), these labels signal to the consumer that this is a special product coming from a very specific place.
Vermouth di Torino PGI: While many people are familiar with vermouth in the context of a martini, they may not know precisely what vermouth is. It is, in fact, an aromatized wine. In this regard, a local wine has been infused with local, aromatic plants. Think of it as the gin of wine! Vermouth is commonly produced in alpine areas and Piedmont’s Torino, at the foothills of the Alps, is no exception. The region’s vermouth developed its stellar reputation in the 18th century and has continued to uphold the same standards and receive continued recognition.
While the guide suggested making a classic martini, paired with the enclosed Greek olives, our household was a bit shy of the required quantities of either gin or vodka at that moment. Instead, I opted to mix up a slightly altered version of the guide’s other recipe, Contessa of Piedmont, substituting the sweet vermouth for the dry and Campari for the Aperol. It was well balanced and delicious with floral and botanical notes!
Pecorino Toscano PDO: While pecorino is a general term for cheese produced from sheep’s milk, Pecorino Toscano PDO hails specifically from sheep’s milk produced in Tuscany and a few municipalities in Umbria and Lazio. It can be made as a soft or semi-hard cheese, depending on the maturation (20 days and four months minimums, respectively). It was relatively mild and slightly salty, with nice richness.
Costa d’Amalfi PGI: Groves for the Costa d’Amalfi PGI lemons were first planted between the 10th and 12th centuries along the coast from Positano and Cetara in Campania. Interestingly, these should not be confused with the lemons of Sorrento, which have their own PGI and are a different variety of lemon. The Costa d’Amalfi lemons are quite large, weighing a minimum of 100 grams and are less acidic than the typical, store-bought lemon. These lemons frequently find their way into limoncello, but as was evidenced by enjoying it on its own, they are great in their unadulterated form, with freshness, beautiful fragrance and bright acidity.
Greek olives: Finally, we have the olives produced in Western Greece, which has a biblical history of olive groves. Formal cultivation of olives within Greece dates to 3500-2500 BCE. Today, the area is home to 150 million olive trees, 600,000 olive farmers and 2,800 mills. The type of olives wasn’t specified, but I suspect them to be Kalamata olives, with their intense briny, acidic and salty flavors.
After making my cocktail and plating up the cheese, olives and crackers, I sat down to enjoy a wonderful collection of tastes and flavors, all of which proved to be a perfect pairing. Overall, I encountered lots of freshness on the plate and in the glass. The next time you are shopping for various ingredients, reward your palate by seeking out the unique products that are produced in very special places. Salut!
Looking for some new wines to grace your holiday table this season? Or, just want to expand your wine knowledge? Check out the dry wines from Abruzzo and the sweet wines from Bordeaux!
A recent dinner at Lincoln Ristorante welcomed members of the wine press and trade in an effort to better acquaint us with the wines from Abruzzo (Italy) and the sweet wines from Bordeaux (France). This was a wonderful opportunity to reconnect with colleagues after a lengthy hiatus as well as taste through a selection of amazing wines (and delicious food).
Prior to the evening, I had only limited exposure to the wines from Abruzzo, mostly aware of its Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines, but the meal provided a much more in-depth look at the region and the high quality wines it produces.
An historic region, the wines from Abruzzo were mentioned by Pliny the elder. In particular, the centrally located Abruzzo is home to both the Adriatic Sea as well as steep mountains (65% of the region is mountainous and 30% of the land is protected by natural parks) and has a mild climate that becomes more continental in character as one moves inland. Consequently, one can ski during the day and then be at the sea within 30 minutes.
Wine production includes 2 DOCG-level wines, 7 DOCs and 7 IGT (regional) wines. As with elsewhere in Italy, co-ops are very important to the scene, but there are also 200 private wineries in Abruzzo.
Here, the two main varieties are the two already mentioned: the red Montepulciano, which accounts for 80% of production and the white Trebbiano, which is the second most planted grape in the region. This latter variety dates to the 16th century and is considered to be a more more elegant version of the Trebbiano variety, and has the ability to age well.
Another grape of note in the region is Pecorino, which had almost become extinct, but thankfully has had a revival. Grown in both the Le Marche and Abruzzo regions, it is a variety with great acidity, structure and good aging potential.
We next enjoyed a Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, which, when established in 2010, was the first designation in Italy dedicated exclusively to rosé wine. The word cerasuolo refers to the deep pink color of these wines, which are produced from the Montepulciano grape.
Finally, we had a Riserva-level Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which displayed the beauty of these wines, which have elegance and powerful, along with good fruit character, complexity, balance and length.
After our foray into the Abruzzian wines, we turned our attention to dessert. As their name implies, the Sweet Wines of Bordeaux offer up beautiful sweetness in the glass and make for a perfect liquid dessert. Yet, they are versatile enough to pair with savory foods as well, with bright acidity and balance accompanying the sweet notes. At dinner, one had a choice between a cheese course or a chocolate-based dessert, both of which paired equally well with the two Bordeaux wines.
Bordeaux’s sweet wines feature the grape varieties of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and (in some cases) Muscadelle and are produced in several styles as well as several different appellations.
The Bordeaux Moelleux are among the lighter-style wines with nice freshness and sweetness. Conversely, those produced as Bordeaux Supérieur are fuller-bodied, can include Muscadelle in the cepage and are aged for a period of 6 to 18 months in wood vessels.
Additionally, Côtes de Bordeaux Saint-Macaire, covers a geographic area along the right bank of the Garonne River, while Premières Côtes de Bordeaux is used for those made from grapes grown in the vineyards of 39 towns that extend across the right bank of the Garonne river located south of Bordeaux.
However, the wines from the more specific appellations are the ones perhaps best compared with their siblings from Sauternes. In this regard are the wines from Cadillac, Cérons, Loupiac and Saint-Croix-Du-Mont. The Cadillac appellation (AOC) was established in 1972, while Cérons AOC dates to 1936. The Cadillac wines are produced from late harvest grapes, while grapes for Cerons are affected by noble rot. Regardless, both adhere to strict selections during harvest, all of which is done by hand, with the wines aged for 12 to 18 months. Two other well-regarded appellations are Loupiac, which is the largest of them all, and Saint-Croix-Du-Mont, both of which are produced similarly to Cadillac and Cérons.
While these may not be familiar names to you, the bottom line is that one should keep Bordeaux in mind when it comes to the dessert course.
In this day and age, we are blessed to have access to a wealth of wonderful wines from all over the world, but it is easy to fall into a rut and reach for the same wines time and again. If that sounds like you, I urge you to step out of your comfort zone and explore these two sets of wines; your palate will thank you!
Wishing you all the best for the holiday season and beyond!
TASTING NOTES
Nic Tartaglia Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy Aromas and flavors of pear and white flowers, with bright acidity, medium body, and long length. Paired with Long Island Fluke Crudo or Misticanza Salad
Fontefico La Canaglia Pecorino d’Abruzzo Superiore DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy As a wine with the Superiore designation, it has been aged for one year, but, in this case, in stainless steel, not wood. Notes of apricot and smoke greet the nose, with a dry palate of medium acidity, medium+ body, culminating in long length. Paired with Risotto.
Velenosi Prope Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy Beautiful in color, this wine offers up fresh berries and zippy acidity, with good minerality, It is complex and structured, with medium+ body and is much more substantial on the palate than a Provencal-style rose. Good length. Paired with Branzino or Dry Age Strip Loin.
Masciarelli Villa Gemma Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Riserva 2017, Abruzzo, Italy Intense nose of red and black fruit, with firm, yet ripe tannins, this wine was aged for 24 24 months before release. It had lovely complexity, good fruit and very long length. Paired with Branzino or Dry Age Strip Loin.
Chateau de Garbes Cuvee Fut de chene Cadillac AOC 2019, Bordeaux, France Produced from old vines, this wine was aged for 12 months in oak. It was luscious, with good acidity to balance the sweetness and notes of apricot and other stone fruit. Paired with Cheese (Aged Parmesan) or Pinola Al Cioccolato.
Chateau Loupiac-Gaudiet Loupiac AOC 2017, Bordeaux, France Made from botrytized grapes (90% Semillion; 10% Sauvignon Blanc) from 45-year-old vines, this wine displays lovely fruit, spice and vanilla, culminating in long length. Paired with Cheese (Aged Parmesan) or Pinola Al Cioccolato.
Located in Italy’s Lombardy region, Oltrepo Pavese gets its name from its location on the “other side” of the Po River, the longest in Italy. Home to over 220 indigenous grape varieties, this region is extremely diverse, producing wines that range from still and sparkling, to dry and sweet and everything in between. Additionally, it’s shared borders with the regions of Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna and Liguria have exerted their influence on the resulting wines as well.
As the third largest grower of Pinot Noir (lagging only behind Burgundy and Champagne), Pinot in its many guises is well represented here. Known by the Italian Pinot Nero, the grape is made into sparkling, white and red wines. Pinot Grigio is also widely planted. Interestingly, due to Lombardy’s historic ties to the Savoy kingdom, Riesling is also found in its vineyards.
The diversity is further reflected in its many different sub-denominations. For example, there are four alone just for Metodo Classico sparkling wines. Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese refers to a lightly sparkling (frizzante) red wine produced from a minimum of 85% Croatina, supplemented with up to 15% of Barbera, Ughetta, and/or Uva Rara. Finally, the unusually titled Sangue di Giuda is named for the legend that Judas came back to life to atone for his betrayal of Jesus, ultimately helping to end an epidemic in the vineyards. This sweet red can be lightly or fully sparkling and may be produced from 25-65% Barbera, 25-65% Croatina, with the remainder being Uva Rara, Ughetta and/or Pinot Nero, up to a maximum of 45%.
Thus, it was a fun and festive introduction to these wines at Sottocasa, an authentic thin-crust pizza restaurant in Harlem, which was the site for an informal wine dinner. Our meal featured an assortment of Oltrepo Pavese wines paired with a selection of salads, pizzas and people. Yet, the informal nature of the event did not mean that the wines were any less complex or of low quality. In fact, they were quite delicious and easy to pair with both the savory and sweet dishes on the crowded table.
Moreover, the diversity of vinous flavors, coupled with the hodge podge of people and food, was the perfect proving ground for Thanksgiving, which we will celebrate in the U.S. this week. While Oltrepo Pavese may be situated on the other side of the Po, this time of year in the U.S. we are metaphorically heading “Over the river and into the woods… to grandmother’s house…” to celebrate Thanksgiving with family, friends or both, with our own assortment of culinary traditions on the table.
The sparkling, white and red wines of Oltrepo Pavese should be a welcome addition to your feast throughout the holiday season and beyond with their flexible, food-friendly nature.
TASTING NOTES
The following wines were those we tasted at Sottacasa, but you can search out whatever Oltrepo Pavese are available at your local wine store.
Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021 100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks This was my preference among the Pinot Grigios, but they were all quite good.
Ca di Frara Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021 100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks
Ca Montebello Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pinot Nero Vinificato in Bianco 2021, $25 100% Pinot Nero. Vinified as a white wine, this Pinot was extremely fresh and lively, light bodied, really beautiful and super easy to drink. It was a crowd favorite at our meal.
Castello di Luzzano Sommossa Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021, $23 100% Croatina. This dry, sparkling red, was produced using the tank method, with raspberries and blackberries, and long length.
Losito & Guarini Giovannella Fugazza Bonarda Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC C’Era Una Volta NV, $20 100% Croatina, tank method.
Dino Torti Oltrepo Pavese DOC Barbera Route 66, 2019, $25 100% Barbera, aged in Fench barrique for 18 months. I didn’t take good notes, but I did enjoy this fresh, medium-bodied red.
Tenuta Travaglino Pinot Nero Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pernero 2021 100% Pinot Nero, tank fermentation, 6 months aging on the lees. A light-bodied red, with good cherry fruit, a hint of herbaceousness and lively acidity.
Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Sangue di Guida Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021 Croatina, Uva Rara, Barbera, field blend, Martinotti Method. This off dry, red sparkling wine was lovely and fresh and a good pairing with dessert.
Looking for a new (to you) white wine? While certainly not new – grapes have been grown in the region since 972 CE and specific mention of it dates to 1782 – Gavi is perhaps less well known, but definitely worth getting to know. In fact, at a recent seminar, “The Hidden Depths of Gavi: Ageing Potential of Piemonte’s Great White “, moderator Walter Speller suggested that Gavi can “play at the level of Chablis.”
Produced from 100% Cortese grapes, the wine hails from southeast Piedmont, Italy (the same region known for Barolo and Barbaresco as well as Moscato d’Asti). This high-quality wine benefits from the continental climate where it can fully ripen in the hot, sunny summers, yet maintain bright acidity thanks to the coastal marin wind.
This great grape can be produced in several different styles, all while keeping within the rules and regulations of the Gavi Consorzio: Still (which represents 99% of all production); Semi-Sparkling (Metodo Classico, with six months aging on the lees); Fully Sparkling; and Riserva. In addition to adhering to lower yields, these latter wines must be aged for one year, with at least six months of that spent in the bottle.
Established as an official denomination in 1974, Gavi was promoted to DOCG in 1998. Yet, more historically, Gavi played an important role in trade. First firmly rooted in the Roman empire, the area was home to Libarna, which was founded in 2nd century BCE as an agricultural and viticultural city. Later, it became crucial to the Republic of Genoa, which served as a defense post and was instrumental in the salt route. The Genovese needed a wine that could be shipped from place to place and being due north of Genoa in the Alessandria province, Gavi became that wine.
More critical than its geographical proximity, Gavi was an especially good choice thanks to its stability. As a white wine with far less polyphenols – especially catechins – than others, it could be shipped to other areas without fear of damage to the wine.
Today, there are 1600 hectares cultivated within the Gavi borders, accounting for 60% of all Cortese planted within Italy. The vines are dispersed among 11 municipalities in the foothills of the Po Valley, some of which are designated as crus. There has also been an increasing focus on single vineyards as the producers seek to better understand their terroir. In this regard, they recently completed a comprehensive map of the territory.
Additionally, sustainable practices have been embraced by the Consorzio with an aim toward promoting organic viticulture and preventing erosion. This commitment has been further reinforced by its 2018 initiative, which monitors bee pollen to measure whether sustainable viticulture is actually being practiced in the region.
Within the area, Cortese thrives on the combination of red clays, white soils, with marl and sandstone, which display as minerality in the wines. In general, these are fresh, elegant white wines, known less for fruit and more for their floral, nut (almond) and mineral characteristics. Most of the wines are fermented in stainless steel, but a few producers do use wood and there has been an emphasis on indigenous yeasts since 2015.
Although the majority of white wines are meant to be enjoyed in their youth, Cortese is a grape that can sustain the test of time. In particular, thanks to the same chemical components that make them stable for shipment, these are wines that can develop beautifully with eight to ten years of age, yet still retain vibrant acidity. As evidence, the wines tasted at the above referenced seminar hailed from vintages 2013-2019 and all showed quite well.
VINTAGE CHART
2021 – 5.0 stars
2020 – 4.5 stars
2019 – 4.5 stars
2018 – 4.5 stars
2017 – 4.0 stars
2016 – 5.0 stars
2015 – 5.0 stars
TASTING NOTES
La Raia Vigna della Madonnina 2019 Gavi DOCG Riserva Acquired by Giorgio Rossi Cairo and his family in 2003, La Raia is an organic and biodynamic property, with Demeter certification. Aged in stainless steel, with one year lees aging, this fresh wine displays apple, slight citrus and mineral notes, with high acidity, medium to full body and long length.
Tenuta La Giustiana Montessora 2018 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi Founded in 1250, Tenuta La Giustiana is one of the oldest and historic estates. Montessora is a single vineyard. This is beautiful wine with wet stone, lanolin, orange peel aromas. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, along with depth and richness and a hint of chalk in the finish, with long length.
Morgassi Superiore Volo 2018 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi Established in 1993, this small estate is family run, currently under the direction of sisters Marina and Cecilia Piacitelli. The wine is very tart, with lemon and mineral aromas and flavors, along with medium+ body, high acidity and good length.
La Mesma Vigna della Rovere Verde 2016 Gavi DOCG Riserva Also a family affair, La Mesma is run by the Rosina sisters: Paola, Francesca and Anna. Notes of pear and apple greet the nose. The palate is dry, with full body, slight tidal pool notes and minerality, culminating in long length.
Tenuta San Pietro in Tassarolo Il Mnadorlo 2015 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Tassarolo Named for the Benedictine convent that was located on the property in the 11th century, Tenuta San Pietro, the estate was purchased in 2002 by Corrado Alota, a Milanese entrepreneur. Hailing from a warmer vintage and with seven years of age on it, this wine displayed beautiful development with almond and caramel aromas. On the palate, it is rich and concentrated, with medium acidity, full body, and notes of peaches, beeswax, petrol and hazelnuts.
Villa Sparina Monterotondo 2014 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi Winner of Wine Enthusiast’s European Winery of the Year for 2021, Villa Sparina has been producing Gavi since 1970. With grapes sourced from their cru, Monterotondo, this wine is intense, with a rich nose redolent of pear and showing some development. It is full bodied, with slight hints of woodiness, peaches and long length.
Bergaglio Nicola Minaia 2014 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi This estate has been making wine since 1945 and is run by the son and grandson of founder: Jean-Luigi and Diego Bergalo. Sourced from grapes grown on the hilly Minaia site, situated directly behind the family cellar, the wine offers up honey, floral and lemon aromas and flavors with medium acidity, medium body and long length.
Broglia Bruno Broglia 2013 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi The Bruno Broglia acquired his historic estate – La Meirana – in 1972, which is now managed by his sons, Gian Piero and Paolo. With a commitment to modern technology, it was the first estate to collaborate on clonal research related to the Cortese grape and it continues to conduct other studies in concert with local universities. Despite being nearly a decade old, this wine is surprisingly fresh. It provides notes of citrus and mineral, with an undercurrent of anise, with good acidity, medium body and long length.
What’s in your glass? If you answered Merlot or Chardonnay, you’re only half right. The truth is that wine is a product of grapes and place (and to a slightly lesser extent, people), so what’s in your glass also includes where the grapes were grown and how those who made the wine chose to interpret them.
When I taught consumer wine classes on a regular basis, I used to have my “Great Grape” series, which I affectionately referred to as “Same Grape, Different Neighborhood”. In each class, I guided the group through a selection of wines all produced from the same grape variety (i.e. Chardonnays or Merlots), but which had been grown in different places around the world. The intention was to familiarize them with the general characteristics of a given grape, while providing them with concrete evidence of how climate, soil and winemaking techniques ultimately impacted the finished wine.
So I was extremely excited when I received the unusual invitation to similarly compare and contrast wines from Italy’s Alto Adigewith those from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. I had written about Alto Adige previously, having attended various seminars and also having visited the region, but this was a unique look for sure. The seminar, held at Manhatta Restaurant, was moderated by Laura Williamson, MS and mostly presented by Martin Foradori Hofstatter from Tenuta J. Hofstatter. Davide Ungaro from Cantina Bolzano, Remy Drabkin of Remy Wines and David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyards were also present to share about Willamette and its wines. Overall, the seminar itself was quite technical and, while interesting to the trade, the details of which are likely too mundane to share with the average wine consumer. Yet, it was a wonderful opportunity to use a unique lens to look at two fascinating and fabulous wine regions.
Ultimately, these two winegrowing regions have a lot in common, but, not surprisingly, produce different styles due to the differences underscored during the seminar such as climatic conditions (see chart below). In that vein, fans of one should definitely venture out and try the other. Moreover, they are both equally at home at the table and offer up diversity and a range of styles from which to choose. Love Pinot Grigio? Enjoy Alto Adige’s options tonight and Oregon’s tomorrow. No need to get stuck in a vinous rut.
At the end of the day, it’s all about high quality wines made by real people who are focused on understanding their land to craft the very best wines from it.
BY the NUMBERS… Comparing & Contrasting Top Grapes by Region
Remy Wines Fischerman’s Pinot Gris 2021, Yamhill-Carlton, OR From grapes sourced from the Walker Vineyard, on ungrafted vines, with notes of smoke, higher acidity, fresh, medium body, long length (lovely and fresh).
Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco 2019 Vorberg, Alto Adige Medium to full bodied, with medium acidity, red apple, slight citrus, and a hint of wood in the undercurrent. Long length.
Adelsheim Vineyards, Staking Claim Chardonnay 2019, Chehalem Mountains, OR Austere and elegant, with medium body, medium+ acidity, minerality, citrus and slight green apple, barely perceptible oak, and a slight reductive note.
Castel Juval Unterortl Pinot Nero Riserva 2018, Alto Adige Val Venosta From the most northly Pinot Noir vineyards of Alto Adige, this wine has aromas of cherries and fresh and dried herbs. Dry and fresh, with medium body, very herbal in undercurrent, earthy in the finish, with long length.
Tenuta J. Hofstatter Pinot Nero 2017, Alto Adige Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano Sourced from older parcels planted in 1962 and 1990, notes of earth, darker cherries and a hint of wood greet the nose. Fresh, fruit driven, with a slight herbal hint in the finish. This is a lighter style wine with lighter body but still good concentration of fruit.
Adelsheim Vineyards, Breaking Ground Pinot Noir 2019, Chehalem Mountains, OR This wine is blend of grapes grown on three different soil types in an effort to figure out how to make great wine. Of the two Adelsheim Pinots, this one is less ripe, with cherries and orange peel aromas. Dry, with medium acidity, medium body, cherry, herbs, and long length.
Adelsheim Vineyards, Quarter Mile Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018, Chehalem Mountains, OR This wine is more ripe, with a sweeter, jammier red fruit nose. The palate offers up riper fruit of rich cherries and spice with fuller body, and long length.
The Lagrein variety is related to Pinot Noir, but not sure of total origin, grape with lots of acid and aggressive tannins.
Cantina Bolzano Lagrein Riserva 2018 Taber Alto Adige This is a single vineyard wine, which underwent two years of aging, one of them in oak. It has an intense nose of black fruit and floral, with firm, medium++ tannins, medium+ body, and flavors of intense, concentrated candied violets and blueberry, culminating in long length.
Peter Zemmer Lagrein Riserva Furggl 2018, Alto Adige As a Riserva wine, this wine also spent two years aging, with six months in large oak vessels and 12 months in barriques. This wine has aromas of smoke and black fruit, and is more tannic with fuller body than the Cantina Bolzano Lagrein.
Remy Wines, Lagrein 2019, Dundee Hills, OR In addition to making wine from traditional Oregon varieties, Remy also focuses on those from Northern Italy, including Lagrein. Hers is floral, with tart cherry fruit, and oak notes, and full bodied with firm tannins.
Additional Wines Served with Lunch (more limited tasting notes)
With the First Course: Snap pea panzanella with grapefruit and pink peppercorn
Tenuta J. Hofstatter Barthenau Vigna S. Michele Pinot Bianco 2020 – tree and stone fruit
Happy Summer! It’s that time of the year when I finally venture outdoors and partake in my favorite pastime – picnics! While I got off to a good start, it’s been a bit quiet lately, but I am looking forward to the holiday weekend to make up for lost time. Regardless, I am super excited about some of my newfound picnic discoveries.
We kicked off the summer season in late April (yes, it is a stretch and it was especially windy on the date in question, but anyway …) with Bisol’s anniversary celebration. This historic Prosecco Superiore producer (see previous stories on Prosecco Superiore here) dates from 1542 and has a member of the 21st generation, Gianluca Bisol, at its helm. The event was held at the Lemon Rooftop in NYC’s Hudson Yards, with its spectacular views of the Hudson River. With free-flowing sparkling wine, guests were provided with the wonderful opportunity to taste through a selection of their Proseccos including: *Bisol Crede, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG *Jeio Brut, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG *Jeio Prosecco Rosé DOC NB: Rosé has only recently been approved to be included in the Prosecco DOC and is not permitted for the DOCG.
While you can enjoy these wines anytime of year, the effervescent nature of the wines and celebratory nature of the event, with its great music, good food and delicious wines, were a festive reminder that summer and lighter times were just around the corner.
I am also a bit in love with wines in can from Domaine Bousquet (which I’ve written about previously), which are perfect for their portion control and portability. These lightweight, aluminum cans of 100% certified organic wine are a great option for picnics, beaches that permit alcohol and any other outdoor activities where food and wine are welcome. Plus, they cool quickly and add a lovely flair to your al fresco meals with their food friendly nature and freshness.
A blend of Pinot Noir, Syrah, Pinot Gris and Viognier, Le Petit Verre Bubbly Rosé is slightly effervescent, and offers up lovely citrus and berry notes, with bright acidity on the dry and balanced palate, with long length.
The Le Petit Verre Malbec delivers ripe black fruit aromas and flavors, with good acidity and some complexity, culminating in long length. It was a perfect foil for my BBQ burger craving over Memorial Day Weekend.
These Argentine wines hail from Tupungato,vineyards in the Mendoza region. At an SRP of $13.00 for a four-pack, each 250-ml can provides approximately a glass and a half of wine, at roughly $3.50 per can.
And finally, it was a pleasure to taste two wines from Monte Velho, which provided yet another reminder that Portuguese wines provide great value and great taste. These wines are produced in the Alentejo region and are wonderful examples of indigenous Portuguese varieties. Here, blending has a long history, but today’s wineries are bringing a more modern approach with the deliberate planting of varieties in specific vineyards, rather than relying on the field blends of yesteryear.
A blend of Antão Vaz, Perrum, and Roupeiro, the Monte Velho White 2021 is clean and fresh with medium to full body, with good concentration of ripe white fruits and citrus on the dry palate, with briny minerality and long length.
The Monte Velho Rosé 2021 brings together Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Syrah, Trincadeira and Tinta Caiada, and Arinto, yielding a wine with fresh strawberry and raspberry notes, and a hint of herbaceousness. With medium acidity, medium body and long length, this dry wine was both refreshing and food friendly.
Both wines retail at $12.00/bottle and are certified vegan by the European Vegetarian Union. Moreover, they are shipped in eco-friendly packaging with lighter-weight bottles and 100% varnish-free, recycled cardboard.
I hope these wines inspire your own al fresco dining this summer season!
Having arrived at the 2nd anniversary of Covid’s official designation as a global pandemic, the world is slowly returning to a pre-pandemic normal. Yet, in many ways, the world has significantly changed and the way we live is not necessarily the same normal we used to know.
For many, the realities of inflation are further hampering their ability to dine out as before, especially as restaurants try to make up for lost time, lost patrons and lost income. Plus, understandably some people are still wary of dining indoors or being out in big crowds.
In light of these social and economic changes, the way we socialize is in flux. Yet, the need for human connection has never been greater. But staying in to save money and maintain safety doesn’t have to impede one’s plans. Dining at home easily puts the emphasis on what’s important: enjoying quality time with friends and loved ones. Moreover, it is easier and less expensive than finding a mutually agreeable restaurant.
In this vein, I have been returning to hosting people in our apartment much more frequently these days, but in different ways than before. Given this shift, I have been desiring to entertain more lavishly when it comes to cuisine, cocktails and wines. Thus, we are following suit by cooking more elaborate meals and upgrading our wine choices.
As of late, we are inviting couples and small groups for dinner, both on weeknights and weekends, as a way to renew acquaintances, reconnect and recharge. One Monday night, neighborhood friends joined us for a casual dinner of paprika chicken and butternut squash, which was easily enlivened with the Biserno Insoglio del Cinghiale. Similarly, a cold, snowy Saturday was the perfect excuse to skip a walk in the wet weather and host a friend for charcuterie, cheeses and olives in my apartment and break open the Nardi Brunello. And, a Chianti Classico Riserva is always a welcome addition to one’s table.
Your guests certainly won’t complain about being served higher end wines with more complexity and concentration. Such selections can take a mundane Monday and elevate the occasion with the simple twist of a cork.
>>Read on for tasting notes and information on the properties.
TASTING NOTES
Tenuta di Nozzole 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, Italy, $24.99 Owned by the Folonari family, which has been in the winemaking industry since the 1700s, Tenuta di Nozzole was purchased in 1971, with vineyards dating 700 years. This wine is produced solely from Sangiovese grapes and then spends 24 months in oak barrels with another 3 months in bottle before being released. The extra ageing earns this wine its Riserva designation and adds to the depth and development of the resulting wine.
Aromas of red cherry, black cherry, slight oak and wood greet the nose. The dry palate has high acidity, medium+ body and ripe, resolved tannins. It displays more secondary characteristics than primary fruit flavors, culminating in long length.
Tenuta di Biserno 2019 Insoglio del Cinghiale, Tuscany, Italy, $42.99 The Tenuta di Biserno property stems from a partnership between Marchese Lodovico Antinori, creator of Italian legends Ornellaia and Masseto, and his brother Marchese Piero Antinori, President of acclaimed Antinori Wines, in collaboration with legendary Oenologist, Michel Rolland. Situated in the Upper Maremma, the vineyards are home to a unique microclimate, which the collaborators felt well suited to Cabernet Franc, which is less common in the region. This particular wine is an interesting blend of 33% Syrah, 33% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot.
With notes of smoke, oak, blackberry and earth, the beautifully balanced wine offers up good acidity, full body and ripe tannins. The dry, complex palate shows flavors of blackberry, smoke, a hint of raisin, and earth, along with long length.
Tenute Silvio Nardi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $83.00 Founded by Silvio Nardi who purchased Casale del Bosco estate in 1950 and became a leader in the establishment of the Brunello di Montalcino denomination, Tenuta Silvio Nardi has become a highly regarded producer of these wines. Today, Silvio’s youngest daughter, Emilia Nardi, is at the helm of the winery, working in consultation with enologist Eric Boissenot, one of the world’s top ten winemaking consultants. As a Brunello, this wine is made entirely of Sangiovese and, as per law, is aged for 30 months in wood barrels and 12 months in bottle.
On the nose, this wine displays notes of ripe cherries, oak, and a slight leafy note. The dry, full-bodied palate has bright acidity, with rich, concentrated fruit of cherry and berry, along with a hint of oak and very long length. It is still quite tannic and needs time In bottle to develop.
There are meditation wines, cocktail-party wines and those that are really best enjoyed with food. With the holiday season upon us, the latter two are in particular demand as we head to family gatherings, holiday parties and other social events.
Wines best for the table generally have bright, vibrant acidity, which I have heard by one sommelier described as a “highlighter” of the meal, underscoring the flavor of the food. In this regard, there are a wide variety of choices with all colors (white, orange, rose and red) as well as both the absence and presence of effervescence very welcome in one’s glass.
Here are a wealth of options to consider as you shop the wine aisle or webpage of your favorite retailer or peruse the wine list while dining out.
Sparkling wines As noted above, sparkling wines are very food friendly and most have beautiful acidity. Moreover, the sparkle in sparkling wines further cleanses the palate and makes them great for toasting at the table. Plus, we can’t discount the fun factor that bubbles add to any occasion, so they are especially appropriate for the celebratory season.
I’ve written about Prosecco Superiore numerous times (see this, this and this) because these are well-made wines at a great price. Produced via the tank method, these wines emphasize fruit and floral aromas and flavors and some have a slight sweetness (but are still decidedly dry) that can pair well with spice.
Albino Armani Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Veneto, Italy $19.99 Aromas and flavors of floral and pear, with nice consistent perlage, freshness on the palate, culminating in long length.
White and Orange Wines Many white wines are good pairing partners due to their acidity, light to medium body and range of flavors to mix and match with what is being served. This is equally true of Chardonnay, plus it has some additional characteristics which work well with food such as its fuller body, which means it can stand up to richer, heavier fare. Similarly, those Chardonnays with buttery or woody notes are great options if you wish to echo these flavors in the food. For example, a rich, buttery Chardonnay paired with lobster tails in a creamy butter sauce.
Merry Edwards 2019 Olivet Lane Chardonnay, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00 Aromas of butter and smoke greet the nose and persist on the elegant palate, with apple and citrus flavors, good acidity, medium+ body and very long length.
Another “white” variety with some chameleon properties is Pinot Grigio (also known as Pinot Gris). In fact, the grape is not white, but rather gray (hence its name — both grigio and gris translate as gray in Italian and French, respectively). Yet, it can be produced in shades of white as well as orange.
Albino Armani Corvara Pinot Grigio 2019, Valdadige DOC, Italy, $14.99 Notes of smoke and tangerine give way to pear and minerality on the dry palate, with medium acidity, medium+ body and long length.
About Albino Armani Albino Armani is a family-owned winery with five wineries situated in Northeast Italy and is particularly well regarded as a producer of Pinot Grigio (the family has been producing it for 400 years). In fact, Mr. Armani is presently President of the Consorzio Pinot Grigio delle Venezie. He believes that the best climate for this grape is a cool climate with temperatures that range 55-59F, otherwise the resulting wines are lacking in acidity. In this regard, the Alto Adige region is perfect with its continental climate, good diurnal shifts and extended daylight hours. He produces several Pinot Grigio wines, including two single vineyard bottlings: one from the Corvara Vineyard and the other from the Colle Ara Vineyard.
Found within Valdadige, the Corvara Vineyard is surrounded by mountains, whose limestone rock reflects sunlight onto the vines. Constant winds from these mountains and nearby Lake Garda help ward off disease.
From the Colle Ara Vineyard within the Terra dei Forti denomination (which was created 25 years ago), Albino produces a ramato style Pinot Grigio. Pale copper in color, this hue of this wine stems from skin contact: the grape juice is macerated with the grape skins for a brief period of time leaching color from the skins. Recalling the wines of his childhood, Albino sought to reintroduce this traditional production method in creating this wine.
Lighter-bodied Reds: Schiava and Pinot Noir Lighter bodied reds, especially ones with bright acidity, are another terrific option since they won’t overpower the food, but still have freshness to cleanse the palate. Two such grapes that fit this bill are Schiava and Pinot Noir.
Certainly not a household name (at least not yet), the Schiava grape variety (also known as Vernatsch or Trollinger) hails from the Alto Adige region of Italy, where It has been cultivated since the 16th century. The variety is also grown in Germany, especially in the Baden-Wurttemberg area. Overall, these wines are lighter bodied, dry reds with aromas and flavors of berries, almonds and violets.
Today, the grape is finding renewed favor in the region, with more attention paid to quality both in the vineyard areas and in the winery. Thankfully, many older (80-100 year old) vines still exist, which adds complexity to the wines. With their vibrant acidity, light body and low tannins, Schiava wines are well suited to a wide range of cuisine including charcuterie, cheeses, pasta dishes, pizza as well as Asian cuisine.
Alois Lageder Vernatsch – Schiava 2020, Alto Adige, Italy, ~$20.00 Pale garnet in color, this wine has a stunning nose of cranberry and earth. The palate is dry, with tart acidity, medium- body and flavors of earth, cranberry, pomegranate, and smoke, finishing with medium+ length.
Castel Sallegg Wine Estate Schiava Bischofsleiten 2020 Sudtirol, Alto Adige Lago di Caldaro Scelto Classico, ~$20.00 Slight herbal aromas on the nose become more pronounced on the dry palate and are joined by cherry and berry notes. High acidity, medium body and long length. This was beautiful with roasted chicken.
Likewise, Pinot Noir is a quintessential quaffer at the table. With its bright acidity and depth of flavors from fruity to floral and herbal to earthy, it provides a robust palette from which to pair various dishes. Moreover, the range of styles currently produced (cooler climate vs. warmer climate) adds to the options from which to choose.
I've once again had the pleasure of tasting through a number of Merry Edwards single vineyard Pinot Noirs, which I've discussed previously (see here, here and here). It was wonderful to revisit some favorites, especially the Bucher Vineyard.
Merry Edwards PINOT NOIR 2019, Sonoma Coast(CA), USA, $54.00 Aromas of cherries, earth and spice repeat on the palate, along with flavors of plum and berry. The dry palate has medium acidity, medium body, soft tannins, and long length.
Merry Edwards BUCHER PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00 This wine offers up deeper, darker notes of spice, black cherries and an undercurrent of earth, with bright acidity, medium+ body, medium tannins and very long length.
Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00 Red and black fruit and slight herbal notes pervade the nose, while the dry, yet very ripe palate presents flavors of black cherry, spice, and dried herbs, with medium acidity, medium to full body, ripe tannins and long length.
Yet, even with the fruitier styles of Pinot Noir available in the market, they might not be the perfect foil for heartier fare. For dishes such as beef stews and pork chops, one might prefer a full-bodied red with good acidity, ripe tannins and lovely fruit flavors such as an Amarone or Cabernet Sauvignon.
Albino Armani Amarone Riserva Cuslanus 2015, Veneto, Italy, $59.99 Beautiful nose, showing some development, with spice, wood, dried cherries and plum. The dry palate offered up medium+ acidity, medium+-to-full body and long length.
To learn more about Valpolicella and Amarone, please see this issue of Drinking Wisely & Well.
