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Where everyday is Earth Day…Domaine Bousquet and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

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Earth Day has come and gone, but while the holiday is a reminder that we must protect and cherish our planet, a single day is obviously not enough to do so. To a very real and certain extent, EVERY day should be Earth Day!

Although we can find fault with many industries and organizations, within the world of wine, there are a number of important and impressive examples of wine regions and individual wineries who are making the investment and having an impact with their actions.

In particular, Domaine Bousquet stands as a beacon, having been organic from the “get go”. Along these lines, winery owner, Anne Bouquet refers to herself as an “Organic Revolutionary” and an “International Citizen”, both of which are well deserved and apt descriptors of her commitment to sustainability in all that they do. She is joined by lead winemaker, Rodrigo Serrano, in their quest to lead the region in organic viticulture and sustainability efforts. This “teacher’s soul” has been at the winery for the past five years, and is truly passionate about details in achieving these overarching goals.

The winery has been Certified Organic for over 25 years and has also been certified by Demeter and Biodyvin for its conversion to biodynamic viticulture. They have recently added ROC (regenerative organic certification) certification to their list of organic certifications and are 360 sustainable.

Equally telling, as of this year (2023), they are now a certified B Corp organization. “B Corp Certification is a designation that a business is meeting high standards of verified performance, accountability, and transparency on factors from employee benefits and charitable giving to supply chain practices and input materials.” (From B Lab) Some of their wines also are certified as organic Kosher, Vegan and Gluten-free.

Yet, they are not content to rest on their laurels; future endeavors seek to reduce their CO2 and H2O footprints, especially as there is less snow in the mountains due to climate change.

The winery is also expanding its focus to address other issues such as making low calorie wine, low alcohol wine and organic wine (as opposed to making wine with organic grapes, but with conventional winemaking). In this regard, the biggest challenge is to avoid using SO2, which is an antioxidant and anti-microbial, among other things. These expansions have been challenging, but rewarding as the results are finally realized in the glass.

Across the pond, the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano consortium in Italy’s Tuscany region has been similarly hard at work in pushing a sustainability agenda. The result of its hard work was its award of the Equalitas standard’s sustainability certification, making it the first (and currently only) Italian wine denomination to achieve this milestone. The certification trademark extends to the entire region and is the result of a program initially implemented in the early 1990s and then built upon over the years.

To receive this prestigious certification entails “compliance with a high number of environmental requirements (like biodiversity and the measuring of carbon and water footprints) and socio-economic requirements (like verifying that the principles of freedom of association and equal opportunity are respected).”

Among these efforts, in 2006, the consortium partnered with the municipal government to collect organic waste from the vineyards for use in the production of combustion biomass to supply energy to school and government buildings. Further, the region’s Carbon Footprint project became a national model in 2015.

Of course, these commitments are not at the expense of their commitment to making high quality wine. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is among Italy’s top designated wines having been promoted to DOCG status in 1980. Yet, it often gets overshadowed by its Tuscan neighbors: Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, whose wines also sport the Sangiovese grape.

The good news is that these wines are often well priced and provide great drinking pleasure. So you can feel good about their commitments to the Earth as you enjoy swirling, sipping and savoring them in your glass.

TASTING NOTES


TASTING NOTES: Domaine Bousquet

Domaine Bousquet LO CA Chardonnay 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $14.00
LO CA is a local calorie and low alcohol wine, which required numerous attempts to get it right due to ensure a wine that was stable and of the quality they desired. The resulting wine has 9% abv and 2% residual sugar. Green apple, musk and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate with high acidity, minerality, medium body and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Virgin Red Blend 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $13.00
A combination of 35% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Cabernet Franc, this wine is USDA-certified organic and sulfite-free. A fresh and easy drinking wine, it offers up berries, plum, floral and black cherry, with medium acidity, medium body and good length.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Pinot Noir 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00
Made with certified organic grapes, this wine took many years to perfect since Anne is very particular about her Pinot Noir. The time and effort were worth it with its complex aromas of smoke, tart cherry, and an earthy undertone. It is medium bodied with bright acidity and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gran Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00
A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec (both of which are certified organic), this wine presents notes of vanilla, oak, black fruit and a slight leaf character on the nose. With Medium+ body, good acidity, firm ripe tannins, and black and blue fruit, it is ripe yet dry, culminating in long length.

TASTING NOTES: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

A recent walk-around tasting event provided attendees with the opportunity to taste through a collection of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines as well as meet a few of the winery representatives.

Here are a few of my favorites (notes are limited):

Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot
Fresh, with decidedly herbal characteristics, firmer tannins and floral notes.

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2018, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Canaiolo and other authorized grapes
Meatier, with really nice depth and riper fruit.

Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy
70% Sangiovese and other red grape varieties
Floral, powerful, with darker fruit, less tannic than some of the other wines.

Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy
90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino
With complex notes of smoke, oak, black fruit, it has a lighter structure and texture, with a distinct cherry and leafy palate.

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Merlot
Rich and ripe with dark cherry aromas and flavors, firm tannins.

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2018, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Mammolo
Floral with lush, ripe red fruit, soft tannins and long length.

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
90-95% Sangiovese, 5-10% other grapes, including Canaiolo and Colorino
Cherry and plum, with dusty tannins, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano S. Caterina 2019, Tuscany, Italy
100% Sangiovese
Intense nose and palate, with ripe red fruit and long length.

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggio Stella 2017, Tuscany, Italy
mostly Sangiovese
Lovely and soft, with cherries, berries and vanilla.


Poggio Il Castellare, for the love of Sangiovese

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For most people, owning one vineyard is sufficient. But, for the Bruna Baroncini, one winery was just the beginning. Over the past several decades, Bruna and her family have amassed a lovely portfolio of Tuscan wines. In particular, the acquisitions have focused heavily on exploring the gamut of Sangiovese’s Tuscan expressions.

Not surprisingly, Bruna Baroncini loves Sangiovese. In fact, she has a whole philosophy on how this grape variety is, in her words, “similar to managing a man,” which I’ll get to later. Fortunately, as the head of her family’s wine business, she has lots of opportunity to immerse herself in the world of Sangiovese.

In this regard, the Baroncini family has a wine producing history that spans centuries. Yet, interestingly given Bruna’s penchant for Sangiovese, they initially began making wine at Podere Torre Terza in San Gimignano, a denomination known for its whites.

From the very start, this family has had a clear division of labor; the wine is always made by the women, the men are tasked to sell the wine. Unfortunately, Bruna had to take on both sides of the business when her brother passed away. Thankfully, she is now joined by her nephew Samuele Baroncini, along with their resident enologist Nicola Berti.

Interestingly given Bruna’s penchant for Sangiovese, the family’s roots are at Podere Torre Terza in San Gimignano, an area more known for its whites than reds. Yet, the winery also produces the Sangiovese-led Chianti Colli Senesi. Building upon the family’s lengthy tenure in the industry, they have since added properties in Morellino (Fattoria Querciarossa), Chianti Classico (Casuccio Tarletti) and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Il Faggeto).

But, it is evident that the heart and soul of the company today is Poggio Il Castellare, situated on the southeast side of Montalcino. Bruna purchased the small estate property in 1998, realizing “her dream of producing Brunello, ‘the king of reds’.” Around the same time, Bruna made the acquaintance of Jonathan Shiekman of Linwood Wines,  who immediately recognized their strong passion for the land and for growing the best possible grapes. Accordingly, he began bringing their wines to the U.S.  Today, the wine is available at Sherry-Lehmann, BevMo, ABC Wine, Premier Wines and can be shipped to nearly any state.

While Poggio Il Castellare is not as well known as many other Brunello producers, its wines have received acclaim over the years. More specifically, in 2004, the Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino earned 96 points in Wine Spectator and proceeded to garner at least 90 points from the publication over the next 14 years. Moreover, it generally ranks among the highest in blind tastings, which is a nice distinction for a more affordable Brunello option.

And, although the Baroncini have recently expanded their wine reach to Georgia to explore this ancient wine producing country, Bruna’s heart is still connected to her beloved Sangiovese. As she waxes poetically, she expounds on her philosophy that Sangiovese’s diversity is very much like a growing man. In Morellino, the grape expresses itself as a boy, growing to young adulthood in Montepulciano, then maturing with balance and power in in Chianti Classico and finally exhibiting maturity and the potential for long life in Brunello.

Currently, Poggio Il Castellare produces four wines: two traditional wines and two modern, international wines. The traditional Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino are considered to be the more sophisticated, serious wines of the property. However, the other two are not to be dismissed out of hand as they each offer their own set of pleasures.



TASTING NOTES

Poggio Il Castellare Rosso di Montalcino 2018 D.O.C., Tuscany, Italy, $30.00
Produced from 100% Sangiovese, this wine is fermented solely in stainless steel and then partially (~15%) aged in wood (barriques and tonneau) and then blended together after 6 months. The wine is meant to be an easy interpretation of the area, one that is easy to drink, fruit forward and supple. Redolent of red cherries, this refreshing wine offers up medium+ acidity, good tannins, and flavors of red currant, rhubarb and slight leafy/herbal notes, culminating in very long length.

Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2016 D.O.C.G., Tuscany, Italy, $70.00
The 2016 is the current release, which was rated as a 5-star vintage. The wine is aged for 24 months in a blend of barriques and tonneau and then aged for an additional four months in bottle. Aromas of perfume, cherry and menthol/eucalyptus greet the nose. This dry wine displays medium+ acidity, dusty, ripe tannins, notes of tart cherry, herbs and dried herbs, with very long length. It is elegant with long aging potential.

Poggio Il Castellare Passo dei Caprioli 2019 Toscana Rosso I.G.T., Tuscany, Italy, $22.00
Taking the name capriole, which is Italian for baby deer, this blend of 70% Sangiovese Grosso and 30% Merlot, aged solely in stainless steel, was created as a very drinkable wine. Notes of plum and spices dominate the nose giving way to ripe red fruit with anise and a slight leafiness. It has medium acidity, soft tannins and a dry palate.

Poggio Il Castellare Cervio 2014 Sant’Antimo D.O.C., Tuscany, Italy, $80.00
The small denomination of Sant’Antimo is a place where wine makers can have more freedom in what grapes are grown. For Nicola, Cabernet Franc is one of his favorite varieties in the world and he welcomed the challenge of making a 100% varietal wine with it. With only 6,000 bottles produced annually, it has become a bit of a cult wine. Harvested late in October, fermented in stainless steel and aged in French barriques for two years, this is a wine that can age for 10-15 years. It was showing some development, with aromas of dried spices, thyme, dark fruits, black currant and blackberries, which persisted on the dry palate. It had medium+ acidity, beautiful, resolved tannins, elegance and very long length.