Category Archives: The Wine World

Cool down with Chilean Sauvignon Blanc

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What’s the story, morning glory? As written previously, Chile is hot! And, as I discovered recently, it’s Sauvignon Blancs are really cool. These fresh, crisp white wines are a great option for summer especially with the heat waves we’ve experienced recently on both sides of the Atlantic.

But, more importantly, the story is that Chile is defining and refining what it wants to produce when it comes to Chilean Sauvignon Blanc.

Moreover, this grape is going gangbusters. First brought to Chile by Claudio Gray in 1841, it had a slow start. In fact, the variety represented only a small portion of vineyard plantings by the mid-2000s. Yet, it has seen a significant rise in plantings since that time, growing from 18,300 acres (Oxford Companion to Wine, 4th edition, Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, Oxford University Press, 2015) to 37,614 as of 2019 (Wines of Chile seminar, 7/26/2022). Today, Sauvignon Blanc represents Chile’s second most widely planted variety and accounts for 40% of all white grapes grown in the country with vines found mainly across the Coastal and Central Valley regions.  This sustained growth period has been coincident with Chile’s increased expertise and knowledge.

In particular, it was Pablo Morandé of Viña Morandé who, influenced by cool climate whites from California’s Sonoma County, sought to recreate Chile’s own version, noticing how the cool breeze impacted the wines. He selected Sauvignon Blanc as his grape of choice and the Chilean Coastal Range as his terroir.

As more growers have gotten on board with this vision, the country has developed its own unique style of Sauvignon Blanc that is heavily influenced by the cool climate that Chile provides. Specifically, the vast 600-mile wide, Humboldt current that runs from Antarctica to the North Pole is responsible for cool temperatures (52-57°F), fog and morning mist that maintain high acidity, keep the pyrazines (which translate into herbaceous characteristics) and purity of fruit flavors.

Within Chile, the wineries are further delineating their regions and sub regions. As was heard by Sofia Araya of Veramonte (see story), there is a philosophical shift from grape to geography as the climate conditions now take center stage when considering what grapes to grow where and what style of wine is desired.

In this vein, there are three distinct Sauvignon Blanc growing regions:
>>Coastal Sauvignon Blanc: Humboldt and Coastal Range
These tend to be very herbaceous with jalapeno, grass and asparagus notes and high acid citrus including lime and lemon, along with full bodies with good acidity.
>>Inland Sauvignon Blanc: Central Valley and the Andes Slopes
A slightly warmer climate, this area produces Sauvignon Blancs with more grapefruit and topical fruit notes.
>>Southern Sauvignon Blanc: The Deep South – Patagonia and Bio Bio
These wines typically have really high acidity due to the soil and climate.

The finished wines are further impacted by the diversity of soils within the Coastal Range. For example, Casablanca has iron and marcillo soils, while Limari is dominant in limestone and granite.

As a result, there is a recognizable thread that runs through all of these wines, while each has its own unique flavor profile and attributes, due to microclimates as well as different winemaking approaches.

And, as Chilean winemakers seek to produce for the higher end of the market, these are wines with complexity, concentration and balance.  Admittedly, they share the same DNA as New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs and Sancerre, but they offer their own, distinct style, character and expression.

At a recent virtual seminar, members of the wine press were given the opportunity to taste through a selection of eight Coastal Range Sauvignon Blancs, learning more about these wines from Joaquín Hidalgo of Vinous.com, an authority on South American wines as well as about Chile’s market in general from Julio Alonso, Executive Director USA for Wines of Chile.

TASTING NOTES

  • Viña Morandé Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $20
    Pablo Morandé is a pioneer in the area. This is a single vineyard in the warmest part of Casablanca, away from ocean. The wine displays high acidity, with lime, lemon and a slightly woody note.
  • Matetic Vineyards EQ Coastal Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $20
    This family owned winery practices organic viticulture and is situated in the Rosario Valley of Casablanca. There is black mica in the soils. The wine is predominantly citrus and white nectarine, with some salinity.
  • Casas del Bosque La Cantera Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $18
    Hailing from the coldest spot in Casablanca, closest to the ocean, this wine is very fresh, concentrated and expressive, undergoing lees contact, with notes of grapefruit and herbs.
  • Montes Wines Limited Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $15
    With grapes sourced from Leyda, close to the Pacific Ocean, this fresh wine shows very lemony in character with good acidity and minerality.
  • Viña Koyle Costa La Flor Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $18
    An organic and biodynamic producer, this is situated in San Antonio, Leyda. The wine has more weight and soil presence on the palate, with riper apricot and tropical fruit flavors.
  • Viña Garcés Silva Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $25
    Also from Leyda, this wine has well integrated acidity and fresh flavors of citrus, herbs, white flowers with some lees contact.
  • Ventisquero Wine Estates Grey Sauvignon Blanc 2019 / SRP $25
    These grapes are grown in granitic and gravel soils along the Huasco River in the Atacama Desert, one of the driest places on earth. The wine is aged over its lees for ten months in large foudres to soften the wine, with offers up lots of lime, minerality and salinity.
  • Viña Tabalí Talinay Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $24
    Next to the ocean near the Limari River, these grapes are also grown in desert conditions. This wine is citrus dominant with a distinct herbal undercurrent.

Chateau Maris, A Sustainability Story

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Reinterpreting the triangle trade in an eco-friendly and fair trade way, the Brittany-based Grain de Sail partners with organic and biodynamic French wine producers to ship the bottles to New York City aboard their carbon-free cargo sailboat. From New York, the boat heads to Central America where it takes on organic coffee and cocoa beans, which will be roasted and produced (respectively) by Grain de Sail’s operation in Brittany.

Grain de Sail’s most recent arrival in Brooklyn’s harbor included 1,200 bottles of “Naïve Wine” from Chateau Maris, a biodynamic producer located in the Languedoc. This is just the latest in a string of Chateau Maris’ sustainable efforts and decarbonized solutions, which became the first winery in all of Europe to become a Certified BCorp.

The partnership between Chateau Maris and Grain de Sail was a natural one (pun intended), since both companies share the same set of values. Equipped with solar panels, an insulated hull and a heat exchange system, the cargo ship is outfitted with the latest and greatest technology to ensure that the boat is ecologically sound and the products are safely transported.

Making the trans-Atlantic voyage in 24 days, Grain de Sail’s reliance on wind power makes the crossing 50x greener than sending the wines by the usual container ship. And, these days, with the backlog of containers in the U.S.’ Port Elizabeth, the producers can actually get their wines into the market faster, despite the lengthier trip (24 days via sailboat vs 5 days via container ship).

“If the wine sucks, the conversation ends.” ~Jacques Herviou

At an event showcasing both the sailboat and Chateau Maris’ “Naïve Wine”, members of the press had the opportunity to meet representatives from both companies, taste the wines and enjoy a beautiful Manhattan sunset.

Back in the day, Jacques Herviou, one of Chateau Maris’ three partners, used to sell high end wine such as Grand Cru Burgundy. But, during his visits to various less developed countries, he saw pollution and other environmental issues that upset him. Returning home, it became hollow to sell luxury products to the rich, sparking his desire to be a part of the solution instead.

In 1996, Jacques made the acquaintance of a New York-based investor, Kevin Parker, who is passionate about sustainability and biodynamic winemaker Robert Eden. The trio purchased the well-regarded Chateau Maris only to discover that they had been sold a lemon of a vineyard.

More specifically, they realized that the soil was completely depleted as a result of years of being poisoned with pesticides, insecticides and fertilizers. Thus, it was incumbent upon them to breath new life back into the soil in order to create a wine with life.

They experimented with various compost piles, treating one with a biodynamic preparation, which they found to be substantially better than the non-treated pile.
They became certified through EcoCert in 2002, by Biodyvin in 2004 and by Demeter in 2008. But, Jacques is quick to note it was a business decision to go biodynamic rather than a romantic or marketing one. As he so eloquently put it, “If the wine sucks, the conversation ends.”

These wines assuredly do NOT suck! Over the course of the evening, we tasted:
–Rose de Nymphe Emue 2021: A pale-hued pink, this rose is similar in style to its neighboring Provence and was crisp and refreshing with lovely fresh fruit.
–Naive 2020: The wine of the hour, having made its maiden voyage on the Grain de Sail, this Grenache-based wine has no added sulfur, yet it is stable and redolent of red fruit, with good acidity and medium body. It fittingly features a label with a drawing by surrealist painter, Henri Rousseau.
–Dynamic 2016: This beautiful Syrah is bold, full-bodied and meaty, yet still elegant with dark fruit and ripe tannins.

Beyond the vineyard, Chateau Maris strives to implement its sustainability efforts throughout the entire process. In this regard, as a certified BCorp, this commitment extends to the company’s governance, environment, community, workers and customers, which has led to its designation as “Best for the World” Environment in both 2017 and 2018. Moreover, Wine Spectator magazine has named it, “One of the 5 most environmentally friendly wineries in the world.” Further efforts include the planting of trees through Trees for Jane as well as donations to ASPAS to restore a wildlife area in the Languedoc and La Maison de l’ Abeille de Cassagnoles to preserve and protect the bee population.

Moreover, they are constantly looking at new ways to reduce their carbon footprint, which is why the partnership with Grain de Sail was such a good fit. Herviou was very pleased with the way that things had gone with the maiden voyage and was excited about Grain de Sail’s newest ship slated for completion in 2024, which will have a much larger shipping capacity. Wishing them all smooth sailing!

Wonderful wines for the table

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There are meditation wines, cocktail-party wines and those that are really best enjoyed with food. With the holiday season upon us, the latter two are in particular demand as we head to family gatherings, holiday parties and other social events.

Wines best for the table generally have bright, vibrant acidity, which I have heard by one sommelier described as a “highlighter” of the meal, underscoring the flavor of the food. In this regard, there are a wide variety of choices with all colors (white, orange, rose and red) as well as both the absence and presence of effervescence very welcome in one’s glass.

Here are a wealth of options to consider as you shop the wine aisle or webpage of your favorite retailer or peruse the wine list while dining out.

Sparkling wines
As noted above, sparkling wines are very food friendly and most have beautiful acidity. Moreover, the sparkle in sparkling wines further cleanses the palate and makes them great for toasting at the table. Plus, we can’t discount the fun factor that bubbles add to any occasion, so they are especially appropriate for the celebratory season.

I’ve written about Prosecco Superiore numerous times (see this, this and this) because these are well-made wines at a great price. Produced via the tank method, these wines emphasize fruit and floral aromas and flavors and some have a slight sweetness (but are still decidedly dry) that can pair well with spice.

Albino Armani Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Veneto, Italy $19.99
Aromas and flavors of floral and pear, with nice consistent perlage, freshness on the palate, culminating in long length.

White and Orange Wines
Many white wines are good pairing partners due to their acidity, light to medium body and range of flavors to mix and match with what is being served. This is equally true of Chardonnay, plus it has some additional characteristics which work well with food such as its fuller body, which means it can stand up to richer, heavier fare. Similarly, those Chardonnays with buttery or woody notes are great options if you wish to echo these flavors in the food. For example, a rich, buttery Chardonnay paired with lobster tails in a creamy butter sauce.

Merry Edwards 2019 Olivet Lane Chardonnay, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00
Aromas of butter and smoke greet the nose and persist on the elegant palate, with apple and citrus flavors, good acidity, medium+ body and very long length.

Another “white” variety with some chameleon properties is Pinot Grigio (also known as Pinot Gris). In fact, the grape is not white, but rather gray (hence its name — both grigio and gris translate as gray in Italian and French, respectively). Yet, it can be produced in shades of white as well as orange.

Albino Armani Corvara Pinot Grigio 2019, Valdadige DOC, Italy, $14.99
Notes of smoke and tangerine give way to pear and minerality on the dry palate, with medium acidity, medium+ body and long length.

About Albino Armani
Albino Armani is a family-owned winery with five wineries situated in Northeast Italy and is particularly well regarded as a producer of Pinot Grigio (the family has been producing it for 400 years). In fact, Mr. Armani is presently President of the Consorzio Pinot Grigio delle Venezie.  He believes that the best climate for this grape is a cool climate with temperatures that range 55-59F, otherwise the resulting wines are lacking in acidity. In this regard, the Alto Adige region is perfect with its continental climate, good diurnal shifts and extended daylight hours. He produces several Pinot Grigio wines, including two single vineyard bottlings: one from the Corvara Vineyard and the other from the Colle Ara Vineyard. 

Found within Valdadige, the Corvara Vineyard is surrounded by mountains, whose limestone rock reflects sunlight onto the vines. Constant winds from these mountains and nearby Lake Garda help ward off disease.

From the Colle Ara Vineyard within the Terra dei Forti denomination (which was created 25 years ago), Albino produces a ramato style Pinot Grigio. Pale copper in color, this hue of this wine stems from skin contact: the grape juice is macerated with the grape skins for a brief period of time leaching color from the skins.  Recalling the wines of his childhood, Albino sought to reintroduce this traditional production method in creating this wine.

Lighter-bodied Reds: Schiava and Pinot Noir
Lighter bodied reds, especially ones with bright acidity, are another terrific option since they won’t overpower the food, but still have freshness to cleanse the palate. Two such grapes that fit this bill are Schiava and Pinot Noir.

Certainly not a household name (at least not yet), the Schiava grape variety
(also known as Vernatsch or Trollinger) hails from the Alto Adige region of Italy, where It has been cultivated since the 16th century. The variety is also grown in Germany, especially in the Baden-Wurttemberg area. Overall, these wines are lighter bodied, dry reds with aromas and flavors of berries, almonds and violets.

Today, the grape is finding renewed favor in the region, with more attention paid to quality both in the vineyard areas and in the winery. Thankfully, many older (80-100 year old) vines still exist, which adds complexity to the wines. With their vibrant acidity, light body and low tannins, Schiava wines are well suited to a wide range of cuisine including charcuterie, cheeses, pasta dishes, pizza as well as Asian cuisine.

Alois Lageder Vernatsch – Schiava 2020, Alto Adige, Italy, ~$20.00
Pale garnet in color, this wine has a stunning nose of cranberry and earth. The palate is dry, with tart acidity, medium- body and flavors of earth, cranberry, pomegranate, and smoke, finishing with medium+ length.

Castel Sallegg Wine Estate Schiava Bischofsleiten 2020 Sudtirol, Alto Adige Lago di Caldaro Scelto Classico, ~$20.00
Slight herbal aromas on the nose become more pronounced on the dry palate and are joined by cherry and berry notes. High acidity, medium body and long length. This was beautiful with roasted chicken.

Likewise, Pinot Noir is a quintessential quaffer at the table. With its bright acidity and depth of flavors from fruity to floral and herbal to earthy, it provides a robust palette from which to pair various dishes. Moreover, the range of styles currently produced (cooler climate vs. warmer climate) adds to the options from which to choose.

About Merry Edwards

I've once again had the pleasure of tasting through a number of Merry Edwards single vineyard Pinot Noirs, which I've discussed previously (see here, here and here). It was wonderful to revisit some favorites, especially the Bucher Vineyard.

Merry Edwards PINOT NOIR 2019, Sonoma Coast(CA), USA, $54.00
Aromas of cherries, earth and spice repeat on the palate, along with flavors of plum and berry. The dry palate has medium acidity, medium body, soft tannins, and long length. 

Merry Edwards BUCHER PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00
This wine offers up deeper, darker notes of spice, black cherries and an undercurrent of earth, with bright acidity, medium+ body, medium tannins and very long length.
 
Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00
Red and black fruit and slight herbal notes pervade the nose, while the dry, yet very ripe palate presents flavors of black cherry, spice, and dried herbs, with medium acidity, medium to full body, ripe tannins and long length.

Yet, even with the fruitier styles of Pinot Noir available in the market, they might not be the perfect foil for heartier fare. For dishes such as beef stews and pork chops, one might prefer a full-bodied red with good acidity, ripe tannins and lovely fruit flavors such as an Amarone or Cabernet Sauvignon.

Albino Armani Amarone Riserva Cuslanus 2015, Veneto, Italy, $59.99
Beautiful nose, showing some development, with spice, wood, dried cherries and plum. The dry palate offered up medium+ acidity, medium+-to-full body and long length.

To learn more about Valpolicella and Amarone, please see this issue of Drinking Wisely & Well.




Making Merry for the Holidays

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It continues to be a weird year, one which has spilled over into the holiday season as we ushered in Thanksgiving and now await the arrival of the December celebrations. While some people did observe their usual traditions and headed home for the holidays, many took heed and stayed home, gathering around much tinier tables than in years past.

Moreover, we searched for new ways to mark the occasion taking public safety, risk tolerance and other factors into consideration. In this vein, the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade went ahead (sort of) as usual, but with previously taped segments and a lack of crowds.

Similarly, after half a decade of celebrating as a twosome, my husband and I decided to break with our own tradition and welcome a small group of friends (bringing us to a total of 6 people) for the Thanksgiving meal. We planned our menu to incorporate fresh ideas (waffled turkey burger sliders on Hawaiian Dinner Rolls and Mexican Chocolate Spiced Pumpkin Pie) and some old favorites (Butternut Squash Soup and Cranberry-Citrus Chutney), alongside some staples: Brussel Sprouts and Mashed Potatoes.

As we sat down to dinner, we welcomed everyone to the table and dusted off our well-loved tradition of encouraging each guest to share a brag, a gratitude and a desire. We were also delighted to add in a new tradition – choosing American wine for an American holiday. Accordingly, it was a pleasure to share several recently released Merry Edwards’ wines with our assembled guests.

Pinot Noir is always a favorite of mine for Thanksgiving because it is very versatile to pair with the plethora of flavors that permeate the diverse dishes of the holiday. This year was no exception and it was a delight to open up these bottles with our guests who very much enjoyed the delicious indulgence. These wines are similarly suited to other celebratory meals for this same reason.

And, our friend Aleksandra suggested another new tradition, asking each person to list their “firsts” for this year, reframing some of the chaos and confusion the pandemic has wrought on our lives. Among my firsts was making macrons and performing burlesque.

With Thanksgiving in the rearview mirror, it’s time to turn our attention to Chanukah, Kwanza, Christmas and New Year’s, which again will require restraint and resolve as we navigate these times. Yet, we can still enjoy the holidays with good food, good wine and good company, even if the group is smaller than usual.

As the year draws to a close, it is the perfect time to acknowledge all that we are grateful for, while raising a glass in anticipation of better times. Cheers!

TASTNG NOTES

Merry Edwards BUCHER PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00
Named for the Bucher family who founded their dairy here back in 1958, the Bucher Vineyard was initially planted to Pinot in 1997 as part of the family’s initiative to branch out to other industries. The partnership between John and Diane Bucher and Merry and Ken began in 2016 during which Merry selected two hillside blocks to produce this single vineyard wine. These two Butcher blocks total 2.13 acres – essentially just a small spit of land; consequently only 230 cases of this wine are produced. This is the third vintage under this partnership.
Aromas of earth, spice, and dried flowers greet the nose. The palate is dry with medium+ body and flavors of black pepper, spice, earth and dried cherries, culminating in long length. We especially enjoyed this one!

Merry Edwards FLAX VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00
Merry has been working with the Flax family since 2004 and has been a strong supporter of this vineyard, expanding the quantity of fruit she purchased as it became available. Her dedication further grew when she made the commitment to take on a long-term lease of the property in 2009. The Flax’ have since sold to Steve and Donna Hicks in 2012, but the relationship continues to this day as the new owners have continued to collaborate with Merry and have also made important improvements such as the installation of pig- and deer-proof fence. Fruit is sourced from a total of 6.9 acres, yielding 720 cases.
Fresh floral and berry notes give way to lusher, riper red fruit along with dried and fresh herbs on the palate. The wine offers up bright acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $72.00
With 20 planted acres, the Meredith Estate vineyard is the largest property of those featured in this article, resulting in a much larger case production of 1,400. This abandoned apple orchard in the Sebastopol Hills was purchased by Merry in 1996 and planted to Pinot in 1998. They practice sustainable agriculture, with the use of cover crops and other earth-friendly farming approaches.
Red and black cherries feature prominently on the nose, with a fruitier profile than the Warren’s Hill, along with notes of wet leaves and an herbal undercurrent. The dry palate provides a decidedly savory note, with medium+ body, high acidity and very long length.

Merry Edwards WARRENS’ HILL PINOT NOIR 2018, Green Valley and Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $66.00
While Merry and Ken have leased this vineyard site since 2009, as the vineyard hit its 20th year, it became evident that replanting was needed. Cuttings from an old vineyard of Lee Martinelli’s were propagated in the nursery and replanted on the site in 2012. The vineyard, formerly planted by Warren Dutton, has now been renamed Warren’s Hill, in memory of Merry’s son, Warren, who passed away in 2006 and had been named in honor of Merry’s friends Warren Dutton and Warren Arnold. Thus, the site’s new name recognizes and honors all three Warrens in Merry’s life.  The 5.5 acres produced 440 cases.
This wine displays notes of mushroom, herbs, spice, cherry on both the nose and palate with an earthy finish. It offers up bright acidity, medium+ body and long length and was a more elegant expression than the Meredith Estate.

Merry Edwards LATE HARVEST SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $48.00
As a new addition to the Merry Edwards portfolio, this is the first vintage which saw a harvest of Sauvignon Blanc grapes from the Maefield Vineyard, which had been planted in 2015. The vineyard yielded both regularly harvested and late harvest grapes, the latter of which was affected by noble rot and thus permitted the production of this sweet wine. This is not an easy feat in the Russian River Valley, where fog and moisture can easily turn to grey rot instead of the more beneficial botrytis cinera, responsible for creating luscious dessert wines. Not surprisingly, only a small production (250 cases) was made.
A pronounced nose of apricots, oranges, flowers with medium sweetness beautifully balanced by high acidity. It is medium+ bodied with flavors of apricot, dried orange, white flowers and long length. It would be lovely paired with custards, fresh fruit and other lighter desserts such as apple pie.

For more information on Merry Edwards, you check out her website and read my previous articles:
-Drinking Wine in Interesting Times
-In Pursuit of Pleasure, Promise and Pinot





Chenin Blanc: A Grand Grape from the Loire Valley

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The Loire Valley is home to grand chateaux and the equally grand, but, perhaps, lesser known grape variety, Chenin Blanc. Discovered between the 10th and 15th centuries, Chenin Blanc has a lengthy history in the Loire Valley, with its name supposedly derived from the monastery of Mont-Chenin near Cormery in Touraine.  

Although Chenin was somewhat abandoned in the Loire in the 1970’s in favor of Cabernet Franc and Gamay, it is finding its deserved resurgence, becoming more popular within wine circles as of late. Moreover, Master Sommelier, Pascaline Lepeltier has been championing the variety for quite some time.

And, while the grape has since migrated to other parts of France, notably the South West, as well as California and South Africa, it is in the Loire Valley (which accounts for 95% of France’s plantings of the variety) that it really shines.

Yet, despite Chenin Blanc’s long tenure in the Loire, it is not easily recognized on the shelf given that it is labeled by geographic appellation, rather than grape name. In this case, some of the important names to know are Saumur and Savennières.

Additionally, Chenin can be somewhat of a chameleon in that it takes well to different types of wine production, producing a wide range of wine styles from bone dry to lusciously sweet, still and sparkling and with or without oak, malo-lactic fermentation and lees aging. Given this diversity of styles, there is a wealth of options from which to choose.

Regardless of production style, among its various characteristics, Chenin is high in acidity making it very food friendly as it cleanses the palate between bites. Its aromas and flavors tend toward fruit: citrus, apples and (the more exotic) quince; floral: honeysuckle and chamomile; and honey, wax, and lanolin.

During this time of social distancing and a greater emphasis on staying home, this is a wonderful option to try a selection of wines paired with your delivery or take-out.

In this vein, I was recently given the opportunity to taste through several iterations of this grape, paired with the Mediterranean cuisine of Extra Virgin NYC. This black owned restaurant, situated in the West Village, draws from “coastal fare from Italy and France” and has been open for 16 years.

My delicious dinner consisted of a pistachio-crusted goat cheese salad with roasted beets, endive, watercress, granny smith apple vinaigrette, followed by mushroom crusted virgin chicken with sweet pea risotto, Cipollini onions and truffle broth. Both dishes were a great match for the Chenin wines.

TASTING NOTES
Domaine de l’Enchantoir Saumur Blanc “Terres Blanches” 2018, Loire Valley, France, $20.00
Run by the Brunet family, this domaine has been farming organically since 2010. Aromas of stone fruit/apricot on the nose give way to a dry, rich and round palate with medium+ acidity, medium body, notes of red apple and very long length.

Chateau d’Epire Savennières 2017, Loire Valley, France, $25.00
Chateau d’Epire is one of the oldest domaines in the Savennières appellation, with a history that dates back to Roman times with ownership by the Bizard family continuously since the 17th century. Exotic notes of lanolin, peach and white flowers dominate the nose and persist on the dry palate, along with high acidity, medium+ body, some minerality and long length.

La Forcine Vouvray Demi Sec 2018, Loire Valley, France, $13.00
Produced by August Bonhomme, La Forcine is widely applauded as a value driven Vouvray. With a pronounced nose of floral and stone fruit notes, this off-dry wine is balanced with medium+/high acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Extra Virgin NYC
259 West 4th Street, New York, NY 10014
Currently open for delivery and take-out as well as limited outdoor dining, proprietors Michelle Gaton and Joey Fortunato are asking for support to close their block to vehicular traffic and permit more space for outdoor eating.

In Pursuit of Pleasure, Promise and Pinot

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I first tasted Merry Edwards’ wines at the start of the lockdown. Who knew at the time that we’d be relegated to our homes for such a lengthy period of time? These past several months found me poured over an impossi-puzzle (devoting 2+ months to completing a 2,000-piece jigsaw of Van Gogh’s A Starry Night), finishing a paint-by-numbers and reading the 1,000 page Infinite Jest. Plus, engaging in the usual complement of Zoom happy hours, Zoom events, etc.

But, as states open up in varying degrees, there is a new lightness to the air, brought about by longer days of sunshine and the promise of freedom after feeling cooped up for so long. Moreover, with Summer’s arrival and tentative steps toward a return to business as usual (or a close approximation thereof), we are all anxious for live interaction.

A recent weekend provided just that as we hosted our first impromptu mini-dinner party on a Saturday night. We seated everyone one a different side of the table, with less direct face-to-face contact, but other than that, it was just like any other dinner party. Clearly all starved for human contact, our two friends arrived at 6pm and stayed until midnight, as we enjoyed the pleasure of each other’s company for many hours.

I had again been graciously sent several samples from Merry Edwards and since three of the wines were Pinot Noirs, thought it would be fun and informative to open them all up and taste them side by side with our friends. When I offered up the suggestion, no one complained. Once committed to that plan, I knew that we had purchased the Family Pack size of salmon, which incidentally pairs beautifully with Pinot Noir, so we were all set with our menu as well.

We were overdue for cleaning the apartment, so we scoured with gusto to get ready for our guests, and finished up the aforementioned puzzle just in time at 9:30am that morning, which had been taking up extensive real estate on our dining table.

Once our guests arrived, we took our seats and turned our attention to the assembled wines, tasting them one at a time to fully appreciate the aromas and flavors of each one. Like many producers, Merry Edwards makes quite a variety of Pinot Noirs. While all our the product of Pinot Noir grapes, these wines differ in their origin in that they are produced from different appellations and/or specific vineyards.

The Sonoma Wine AVAs (from: https://sonomawine.com/avas/)

To the uninitiated, it may seem like overkill or just unnecessary to have such an abundance of Pinots, but each wine has its own unique profile and characteristics despite being produced from the grape variety, having been influenced by the specific growing conditions. Accordingly, it is wonderful to be able to compare and contrast these wines to more easily identify their individual appeal.

Pinot Noir 2018, Sonoma Coast (Pinot Noir 2018 (CA), USA, $48.00
5670 cases produced
The first Pinot we tasted hailed from the Sonoma Coast American Viticultural Area (AVA). This swath of land runs from San Pablo Bay to Mendocino County, primarily running along the coastline. Given its close proximity to the Pacific Ocean, the area receives a higher amount of rain than other parts of Sonoma County. However, with most vineyards situated above the fog line, the grapes are able to fully ripen despite the cool climate.

TASTING NOTE: This wine was decidedly focused on fruit, with aromas and flavors of cherries, cola, and some leafy notes. The palate was dry, with bright and lively acidity, medium body and long length.

Pinot Noir 2018 Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $55
5670 cases produced
The next wine was from the Russian River Valley AVA, which is situated further inland. The farther distance from the sea makes this area warmer than the coast, but it is still influenced by the fog, which helps cool the area and prolong the growing season. As a result, the grapes grow slowly, maintaining good acidity and achieving full ripeness and phenological maturity.

TASTING NOTE: Compared to the Sonoma Coast Pinot, this wine offered up darker fruit and more herbal characteristics with dried sage, black cherry and blackberry. This dry wine had high acidity, medium body and was lush on the palate, culminating in long length.

Pinot Noir 2018 Klopps Ranch, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $55.00
930 cases produced
The last of the trio was also from the Russian River Valley AVA, but all of the fruit for this wine came from the Klopps Ranch. This 37-acre property was initially planted in 1989 with input sought from Merry from the very beginning. The land has great drainage and a moderate climate, further adding to the quality of the grapes, which are deliberately kept to low yields. The wines from this vineyard generally offer up good fruit character with lush richness.

TASTING NOTE: I found this wine to be slightly shy on the nose, but once it opened up, there was a profusion of mushroom, herb and earthy notes. It was dry with high acidity, medium+ body and a complex flavors of spice, cherry, black cherry and herbs plus long length.

Chardonnay Olivet Lane 2017, Sonoma County (CA), USA, $68.00
630 cases produced

We also had the great pleasure in tasting Merry Edwards’ Olivet Lane Chardonnay at an earlier meal, which was an exquisite match for seared scallops. The Olivet Lane Vineyard totals 60 acres, 24 of which are planted to Chardonnay (and 22 of which are planted to Pinot Noir). This land has been owned by the Pelligrini family since 1973 at which point they converted the fruit and olive orchards to vineyards, with guidance from a professor at UC Davis. Over time, this vineyard has developed a stellar reputation for its classic style and its grapes are highly sought after.

TASTING NOTE: Aromas of vanilla and wood greeted the nose. The dry, full-bodied palate presented with rich nuttiness, medium acidity and notes of apple, wood, vanilla and minerality, along with long length.

Time will tell if we’ll need to hunker down again in isolation, but for we are are enjoying our new-found freedom and the promise of summer.




Fall in love with the wines from Famiglia Pasqua

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In January 2017, I had the immense pleasure of visiting Verona. “In fair Verona, where we lay our scene,” I found a lovely and welcoming city with bustling shops, beckoning restaurants and majestic bridges. Starting at the imposing Bra Gate, the city’s cobble-stone streets put you in mind of another time, reinforced as you pass the Roman amphitheater. Other hints of this classical connection include the Porta Borsari, an ancient Roman gate still standing in the middle of town.

In many ways, this is the city of love. Nearly synonymous with the tragic story of Romeo and Juliet, visitors are encouraged to tour Juliet’s house and tomb as well as send her letters in aid of their own romantic peccadillos. But, despite the gimmicky feel to these attractions, there is something about Verona that stirs the romance within. Or, perhaps, at least, the romance of life and adventure.

Aside from romantic love, Verona also courts business – specifically the business of wine. Home to VinItaly, Verona hosts the largest wine fair in the world, bringing the world of wine to its door each year.  Moreover, Verona serves as a gateway to the Valpolicella wine region, the name of which translates as the “valley of many cellars” and with the profusion of wine production here, it is easy to see why.

An area dedicated to viticulture, local archeological evidence of these vines dates to 40 million years ago, while records of wine production in the Veneto area indicate a history as early as the 5th century BCE. The region is bound by Lake Garda and the Adige River, both of which influence the climate among the nearly 20,000 acres of vineyards.

Today, the region encompasses several different wines within its borders, but traditionally has been associated with wines produced from dried grapes. These type of wines appear to have been developed from the fourth century BCE, likely a way for the Romans to raise the alcohol level of their wines, rendering them more stable and thus more easily transported throughout their empire.

While the Romans dried their grapes over heat, more modern measures focus on drying out the grapes over a period of months through a more natural reduction in water content called appassimento. Today, the wines most well known for this type of production method is Amarone della Valpolicella.

Hailing from this region and adapting this traditional approach, the Pasqua family has focused on producing a less expensive option in both red and white. They use a modified appassimento technique in which the grapes lose “only” 15-30% volume as opposed to the 60% associated with Amarone. The family launched their Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento (Passion-Feeling) in 2014.

Not ones to worry about convention, Alessandro Pasqua proudly declares that “The Rosso breaks about 10 rules!” including its use of the non-indigenous Merlot grape, early vinification and a limited aging regimen. Accordingly, neither of these wines have a particular designation other than IGT Veneto, proclaiming that the wines come from the Veneto region.

Befitting a wine named Passion-Feeling, the label features the love-inspired graffiti that lined the passageway and walls (now since removed) at the house associated as having been the Capulet’s home.

Pasqua’s PassioneSentimento collection includes a white, red and a Prosecco, another wine closely associated with the region.

Among its other wines, the Pasqua Family also produces a an “11 Minutes Rosé ,” which, according to their winemaker is the ideal length of time for contact between the juice and skins to produce this wine. While not part of the PassioneSentimento series, this rose recalls another set of lovers: Catullus and Lesbia, with her depicted on the label.

  • The graffiti wall at the Capulet home in Verona.

TASTING NOTES

Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento Prosecco Brut, Treviso DOC, $16 SRP
Fresh and lively on the nose and palate, with bright pear fruit and floral notes, persistent effervescence and long length.

Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento Bianco 2018, Veneto IGT, $16 SRP
Produced from 100% Garganega, the grapes for this wine are harvested early, hand-picked and then dried for around 15 days, thereby concentrating the aromas and flavors. A portion is aged in French oak barrels for a few months. With an intense, concentrated nose, one is greeted with notes of melon, musk and a slight nuttiness. On the palate, it is dry, with high acidity, rich and round with citrus, melon, culminating in long length.

Pasqua “11 Minutes” Rosé TreVenezie IGT, $20 SRP
This rose is very much in the Provencal style, with a barely there pale salmon color. Aromas of watermelon and strawberries greet the nose and continue on the palate, with good acidity, medium body and long length. Very refreshing and food friendly.

Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento Rosso 2017, Veneto IGT, $16 SRP
A blend of 40% Merlot, 30% Corvina and 30% Croatina, the grapes are left to dry for four to six weeks, losing water content over time. On the nose, this wine offers up notes of plum, cherries, a hint of vanilla and menthol. The palate is dry, but with a slightly sweet attack, with medium acidity, medium tannins, flavors of berries, baking spice and anise, with long length.

Finding Hope in Dreams, Ron Rubin Winery

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This moment in time continues to be challenging for us all as the world grapples with both the pandemic and protests. The uncertainty for what it will all mean in the future is unsettling, but I am choosing to find hope amidst the pain.

Last week found me on a socially distant, “Pandemic Playdate” in the local park with my friend. She supplied the colored pencils and I brought a bottle of wine. The page I had selected to color that day read:

It is at this moment, when things appear so bleak that we must redouble our efforts and not give up. We must believe that we can remake the world in a more peaceful reality.
~Cynthia McKinney

I was in a dark place that afternoon, but this quote touched me deeply.

As we move forward to remake the world, I am holding my hopes and dreams in my heart and in my mind even though I don’t know when they will come to fruition. Along these lines, while some people leap straight into pursuing their passions, others wait patiently for their dreams to come true.

Ron Rubin first dreamt of having his own winery while a student at UC Davis. That was back in 1971. But life had other plans for Ron. In 1972, he returned home to Illinois and entered the family business, Central Wholesale Liquor Co., bringing innovation and expansion over his 22 year tenure with the company before moving on to become a top seller of Clearly Canadian Sparking Water.

Yet, he never forgot about his dream.

Forty years later, Ron parlayed his success into the purchase of River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, in the Russian River Valley’s Green Valley, renaming the winery Ron Rubin Winery. He had finally manifested his dream!

Not one to rest on his laurels, Ron threw himself into his new venture, earning himself the honor of Innovator of the Year Award from the North Bay Business Journal in 2016.

And, interestingly, while wine continues to be an important passion, his love of beverages is quite broad. In this regard, Ron was so inspired by the book The Republic of Tea that he made an offer to the authors (and owners of The Republic of Tea), Mel and Patricia Ziegler, to purchase their company back in 1994.

Beyond beverages, Ron’s other guiding passion is philanthropy, giving both his financial support and business acumen to numerous causes including serving on the Board for Sonoma State University’s Wine Business Institute; donating to Wine Spectator Learning Center’s state-of-the-art education complex; funding The Maynard Amerine Wine Label and Menu Collection, at U.C. Davis; and establishing the Ron Rubin Winery TRAINED FOR “SAVING LIVES” program.

This latter program was launched in 2017 in collaboration with the American Red Cross and ZOLL Medical Corporation, with the Ron Rubin Winery covering the cost of supplying qualifying California wineries with a ZOLL AED PLUS (Automated External Defibrillator) unit.

In keeping with his life-long pursuit, Ron’s top wines are part of his Dream Series and include two Chardonnays and a Pinot Noir.

TASTING NOTES
Ron Rubin Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2018, $20.00
A bit shy on the nose, but really lovely on the dry palate with medium acidity, medium+ body and complex flavors of melon, apple, a slight woody note and vanilla, culminating in long length.

Ron Rubin Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2017, $25.00
With berry and cherry aromas on the nose, this beautiful wine offers up good acidity, fresh cherry fruit, slight leafy notes and long length on the palate.


Oh the Places You’ll Go…in a Glass

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My passport expires at the end of this year, but this has definitely not been a year where it is getting much use. In fact, it’s been a full year since my last international trip, with no plans on the horizon. I know that this is temporary, but travel has always been an important part of my life, so it feels strange to be so rooted in one place without the pleasure of exploring new (to me) and exciting places.

Interestingly, I remember a friend telling me once that the number of Americans that hold valid passports is relatively small compared to the overall population. Now, we are all stuck at home, unable to experience the culture and cuisines of the world firsthand.

However, while we are all on lockdown, we can choose to travel from the safety of our dining rooms. We can open up a bottle of wine from nearly anywhere in the world and travel in an instant — no passport or security check needed. You can leave your shoes on, although perhaps you haven’t put on shoes in weeks?

In addition to traveling to other locales, we can also travel in time and space. This past week marked my husband’s 49th birthday, which we celebrated at home in style, setting up a bistro table in the living room, instead of eating at the dining table, which is now shared with the impossi-puzzle (a 2,000 piece jigsaw puzzle of Van Gogh’s A Starry Night). We had a delicious gourmet pantry-raid meal with souvenirs from various trips to Italy (truffle cream, tomato jam, true Balsamic vinegar and other finds), served with vintage Champagne (2008) and a wine from his birth year (1971). It was magical to be transported from the present to the past in a single sip, thinking about what had occurred during those growing seasons.

In addition, I had the wonderful opportunity to taste through a selection of Spanish wines recently, ready for spring. I had been overly optimistic about preparing Spanish cuisine to accompany them and further expand my non-travel horizons, but, no matter, the wines were still enjoyable without a perfect pairing. The Rosado (aka rose) was a great option for a Zoom happy hour, the Godello went well with stir-fry and the Monopole was the perfect picnic partner on a rare visit to the park.

Virgen del Galir Pagos del Galir Godello 2018, Valdeorras, Spain, $21.00
Notes of smoke and spice greet the nose, giving way to melon and minerality on the palate, along with a slight oxidative/yeasty note, likely due to the 4 months aging on the lees, culminating in long length.

Vina Real Rosado 2019, Rioja, Spain, $14.00
A blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo and Viura, this wine is very lovely, redolent of tart, strawberries and watermelon, with lively acidity and freshness on the palate. Long length.

CVNE Monopole 2019, Rioja, Spain, $15.00
This 100% Viura white wine was first produced by CVNE in 1915 and is full-bodied with floral and apple aromas and flavors, along with good length.

For more information on CVNE and Vina Real, please see my previous story.


Drinking Wine in Interesting Times: Hess Select Edition

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As Natalie Merchant, of 10,000 Maniacs, once sang,
“These are Days you’ll remember
Never before and never since
I promise”

I know that I have been fortunate thus far and am choosing to see the beauty amidst the chaos, so I am proceeding to sing the whole song in all its positivity.

Yes, these are interesting, challenging, unprecedented times. We don’t know what will happen. There is so much uncertainly, but I am choosing to live day by day — to celebrate my life and all that I have right now. I realize that this may be much more difficult for others and I send them much love and healing.

All of this is not to say that everything is perfect. I am doing my fair share of stress eating and drinking. Not the best self care plan, but sometimes the creature comforts work.

Despite the stress and overwhelm, I am trying to follow my mantra of “Everything in moderation…including moderation,” and, to that end, am enjoying a glass or two of wine with meals. It brings a sense of normalcy and elevates our home cooking. We have also adopted the practice of ordering in once a week in an effort to support local businesses specifically and the food industry in general.

This week found me enjoying a trio of wines from the Hess Select collection: a white, rose and red. I have previously tasted wines from Hess’ more upscale production and have always been impressed with them and their winemaking. With 40 years of experience, it is not surprising that they are so well made.

While the Hess Select wines are produced on a much larger production scale and offer less complexity than higher end wines, they definitely deliver. They are the perfect go-to wines when you want to pour a food-friendly option that won’t break the bank, require significant thought or seem like an extravagance.

My favorite of the three was the Pinot Noir from California’s Central Coast. It was really lovely and provided a great Pinot Noir experience at a very reasonable Pinot price point ($19 SRP). The nose offered up herbal and mushroom aromas, giving way to a ripe palate of spice, dried herbs and rich cherry and berry flavors, with long length.

With the arrival of Spring, the rose was a welcome ray of sunshine, greeting the nose with watermelon and cotton candy, both of which persisted on the dry, crisp palate. Finally, the full-bodied Pinot Gris presented with ripe melon notes and paired well with our Mexican take-out.

When not eating or drinking, in order to keep busy and step away from the computer, I have taken up painting-by-numbers. This has become a meditative practice for me as well as a creative outlet. May you each find your own way to navigate these days with health, sanity and (perhaps) a glass of wine!

WINES MENTIONED ABOVE
Hess Select Pinot Gris 2019, California, USA, $12.00
Hess Select Rose 2019, California, USA, $12.00
Hess Select Pinot Noir 2018, Central Coast (CA), USA, $19.00

Full Lyrics: These are days

These are days you’ll remember
Never before and never since
I promise
Will the whole world be warm as this
And as you feel it
You’ll know it’s true
That you are blessed and lucky
It’s true that you
Are touched by something
That will grow in you, in you

These are days you’ll remember
When May is rushing over you with desire
To be part of the miracles you see in every hour
You’ll know it’s true that you are blessed and lucky
It’s true that you
Are touched by something
That will grow and bloom in you

These are days
These are the days you might fill with laughter until you break
These days you might feel a shaft of light
Make its way across your face
And when you do you’ll know how it was meant to be
See the signs and know their meaning
It’s true
You’ll know how it was meant to be
Hear the signs and know they’re speaking to you, to you

Source: LyricFind
Songwriters: Buck Robert / Jerome Augustyniak / Natalie Merchant / Natalie A Merchant / Robert Buck
These Are Days lyrics © Words & Music A Div Of Big Deal Music LLC