Behind Big Bottles of Bordeaux

Posted on March 12, 2020 by Tracy

Kicking off Women’s History Month, a group of female wine professionals descended upon New York with big bottles (3-Liters, to be specific) of Bordeaux. These rare, double-magnum sized wines were poured by the glass during the week of March 2-8 at 66 restaurants around the city. The wines and the women showcased the diversity of Bordeaux with dry and sweet whites as well as the more well-known reds.

In conjunction with this state-wide promotion of “Strong Women Make Big Bordeaux Bottles,” members of the press were invited to take a VIP wine tour to visit four restaurants featured in the event to taste the wines and meet some of the women behind the bottles: Rita Jammet, Sophie Solnicki-Thierry, Caroline Perromat and Sylvia Courselle.

Our first stop was Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, where we were introduced to Rita, who is the former owner of the esteemed (and now closed) La Caravelle restaurant. She and her husband began producing wines for the restaurant, launching first a Champagne and then a Bordeaux in 1995, which they continued making after the restaurant closed. Their small production La Caravelle wine is made from grapes sourced within the Listrac-Medoc appellation and is made only in good years. At the wine bar, sommelier André Compeyre paired her La Caravelle 2008 with Beef Bressola Croque with Comte cheese.

Next, we arrived at 701 West at the Edition Hotel in the heart of Times Square. This luxury restaurant and cocktail bar is the first and only fine dining establishment in the neighborhood and was awarded three stars from The New York Times. Among the beautifully appointed dark wood, Sophie Solnicki-Thierry of Chateau Forcas-Hosten provided us with the history of the estate. The property was previously owned by a group of Americans, but has more recently been under new ownership, which has breathed new life into the property. JF Restaurants’ Beverage Director, Amy Racine, matched her Cedres d’Hosten 2012 with braised lamb flatbread and eggplant.

Switching gears from red to white, we headed to O Ya at the ParkSouth Hotel. Here, we heard from Caroline Perromat, of Chateau de Cerons. Perromat and her husband Xavier, took over management of the family estate in 2012, situated within the tiny sub-appellation of Cerons, within the Graves area. Caroline shared that she and her husband now work together at the estate and talked about the complexity and challenges in making a white wine compared to making a red one. Her Chateau de Cerons 2017 was beautifully paired with shima aji sashimi by Chelsea Carrier, Beverage Director for the hotel.

La Caravelle
Amy Racine and Sophie Solnicki-Thierry
Chateau de Cerons
Caroline Perromat
Sushi at O Ya
Sylvie Courselle
Bruno Almeida

Last, but certainly not least, we joined Sylvie Courselle, from Chateau Thieuley at Tocqueville. The family-owned estate of Chateau Thieuley was initially in the hands of Francis Courselle, but when his two daughters, Sylvie and Marie, graduated with degrees in agricultural engineering and enology, it was clear that they were ready to take over the business. Today, Sylvie focuses on sales, while Marie manages the technical aspects of winemaking. Tocqueville’s sommelier, Bruno Almeida chose to show the Chateau Thieuley 2015 with gougeres and steak au poivre with bone marrow.
Beyond the female focus, there was much to learn about Bordeaux itself, which has undergone quite a transformation as of late. Today’s Bordeaux has embraced sustainability, with an aggressive agenda to shift toward organic farming, which is particularly difficult in Bordeaux’s maritime climate.

While the emphasis on indigenous grapes remains, there has been a shift from exclusively blended wines to the production of some single variety wines and a stronger promotion of dry whites, which account for 9% of total production. Moreover, the region is keenly aware of the impact of climate change, which, for the most part, has been favorable in terms of more consistent quality from vintage to vintage, but looms large as a potential threat in the future as things (literally) heat up. Accordingly, last year Bordeaux became the first French region to permit new grape varieties to be used in an effort to combat rising temperatures. There are four new red and three new white grape varieties that have been added to the list of authorized grapes.

And, while what happens in the vineyard is extremely important, the people behind the wine are equally important. In this regard, a new generation of winemakers and vineyard managers have come to the forefront of the industry. These professionals have often grown up in the region, but are much more well-traveled with experience beyond Bordeaux than their predecessors were. Consequently, they bring back diverse expertise which informs their winemaking and grape growing. And, as was evident with this campaign – many of those newcomers are female, taking on the roles of owners, winemakers, cellar masters and marketers. A new day has certainly dawned in Bordeaux and it is exciting to see what is happening.

Bodega Norton and the Love of a Good Woman

Posted on February 13, 2020 by Tracy

It’s Valentine’s Day week, with the addition of the newly created Galentine’s Day and the usual backlash against this “Hallmark Holiday.” But, whether you are reaching for all things red and romantic or boycotting it altogether, there’s no denying the love that exudes from wine brand Bodega Norton, which celebrates its 125^th anniversary this year. Sharing lots of love with the New York wine press, the brand’s Chief Winemaker (David Bonomi) and Sales & Marketing Director (Santiago Galli) visited New York earlier this month as the third visit of a total of 125 to mark this momentous occasion.

Founded in 1895, Bodega Norton got its start when a British engineer, Edmund James Palmer Norton, was stationed in South America to build a rail line connecting Chile and Argentina and fell in love with an Argentine woman. Completely smitten and unwilling to leave her, he gave up his engineering career and established the winery in Mendoza, Argentina.

The winery continued to grow and flourish under the Norton family until it was purchased in 1989 by Gernot Langes-Swarovski of the Austrian crystal company. Drawn by his passion for wine, Gernot recognized the beauty and quality of Bodega Norton. To protect his investment, he sent his son, Michael Halstrick, to Argentina to lead the winery as CEO. Equally charmed as the original founder, Michael, too, met and fell in love with an Argentine woman, married her and now lives full-time in Argentina with his family, shepherding the winery towards ever-continuing excellence.

Joining Michael in his pursuit of excellence, David Bonomi has held the post as Chief Winemaker since 2014, and is only the 3^rd winemaker at the winery in the past 50 years, maintaining its heritage and legacy. He had been with the company previously and his deep affection for Bodega Norton was evident as he spoke about the vineyards and wines.

Named a Top 10 South American winemaker by Decanter magazine, David was born into an Italian winemaking family (originally from Piedmont) and fell in love with wine at an early age. His first passion was viticulture, and, while he eventually studied enology as well, it is clear that he comes alive in the vineyard. With 33 years as a professional winemaker and viticulturist, David loves discovering the capabilities of new (to Argentina) varieties, such as Gruner Veltliner as well as new vineyards (in Uco Valley and Patagonia). He then crafts his interpretation of a place into wine.

Speaking about the Swarovski family, David described their arrival as a merger between Latin passion and European vision. He further noted the influence that the family’s attention to detail in the crystal business was infused into the existing culture at Bodega Norton, along with a strong emphasis on sustainability and best practices. Moreover, their commitment to quality production extends to their growers; the minimum contract is 10 years with shared investment in netting and other necessary equipment.

The winery’s five estate vineyards are all found in the foothills of the Andes Mountains, comprising a total of 1,750 planted acres that range in age from 30 to 80 years old. They are situated within Mendoza’s Lujan de Cuyo district and further delineated in a special area known as primera zona (first zone) for the quality of the grapes.

This is truly the desert, with limited water (they are limited to irrigating with snow melt from the mountains) and challenging conditions to create wine. As David explained, there are two climates here: hot and dry and, in more difficult vintages, cool and rain. But, their long-term vision keeps them going. And, that is a true labor of love!

TASTING NOTES

During the lunch celebration, we had the great fortune to taste through a selection of current wines as well as a vertical of the winery’s top wine, Gernot Langes. The Gernot Langes was first produced in 2003 and honors Bodega Norton’s current owner, Gernot Langes Swarovski. Assessing seven vintages ranging from 2006 to 2016, it was apparent that the wine is not a photocopy, but rather, it is a wine that differs from vintage to vintage. Moreover, while only the 2016 vintage is available, the exercise demonstrated the wine’s ability to age and develop with time.

Bodega Norton: 1010 Bubbles NV, Mendoza, Argentina, $13.00
Produced via a special Charmat Method to create fine bubbles and retain the fresh fruit aromas of Gruner Veltliner, the wine is bright with slight floral and citrus and pear notes, delicate mousse, long length.

Bodega Norton Reserva Malbec 2018, Luyan de Cuyo, Argentina, $19.00
Made with 100% Malbec, David now adds a small mount of fruit from the Uco Valley to the wine to give it additional complexity. It offered up notes of plums, figs, black current with a savory and leafy undercurrent. The palate displayed good acidity, with medium-firm tannins, medium+ body and long length.

Bodega Norton Privada Family Blend 2016, Luyan de Cuyo, Argentina, $22.00
Bringing together 40% Malbec (for structure) , 30% Cabernet Sauvignon (for body) and 30% Merlot (for acidity), this wine was originally kept just for the family to enjoy with friends, but has since been produced as a commercial wine. The use of oak is very limited, so it is not overt on the palate. Notes of spice, black cherry and blackberry greet the nose. On the palate, it is more structured than Reserva Malbec, as well as richer and rounder with a smoky note in the very long finish.

Bodega Norton Gernot Langes 2016, Mendoza, Argentina, $105.00
A blend of 30% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine was aged in oak for 16 months, with an additional 14 months in bottle before release. Of the vintages we tasted, it was the freshest with an expressive, concentrated nose of black fruit, dried herbs, smoke, with good acidity, firm tannins, medium+ body, culminating in long length.

A Discovery of Riches: The Perfect Pairing of Piave DOP and Garda DOC

Posted on January 19, 2020 by Tracy

This month, we heard reports of a NASA summer intern, Wolf Cukier, who discovered a new planet. Pretty heady stuff! These days, it is challenging to discover anything new under the sun. We live in a world where we’ve been there, done that and, with globalization, there is a homogenization of culture that pervades. Yet, we still treasure unique products and delight in the discovery of new finds.

Twenty years ago, in search of novel and noteworthy products to sell, Lou Di Palo, head of his family’s business, was fortunate to come across a then-unheard of Italian cheese: Piave. Bringing his new-found discovery to America (or at least to the Italian cheese and specialty shop established in 1903 by his great-grandfather, Savino Di Palo), Lou introduced New Yorkers to this wonderful artisan cheese.

Today, Piave DOP Cheese has become a beloved staple of the American market, finding shelf space in major supermarkets as well as in specialty stores. This traditional cheese hails from the Belluno province near the northern tip of the Veneto region, amidst the Dolomite Mountains.

Historically, the area has been known for its dairy cattle since the 1700s, but as the rural economy declined in the wake of industrialization, it was the cooperative dairies that saved the industry during the 1800s. Yet, despite this lengthy history, the Piave cheese as we know it, named for the local Piave River, dates from 1960. And, more recently, the Piave Consorzio was established in 2010 to protect the brand and quality of the cheese, with an average of 300,000 wheels produced annually.

A hard, cooked, cow’s milk cheese, these cylindrical cheeses are made from fresh milk sourced solely from within the mountain province and limited to three types of cow: Italian Brown, Italian Spotted Red and Italian Friesian (aka Holstein). A special culture from the area accounts for the cheese’s characteristic taste, which is further influenced by its aging process, with flavor intensifying over time. As the cheese ages, the curd becomes darker and harder and the rind increases in thickness and color. Due to the fermentation process involved in its production, it has a low lactose content compared to some other cheeses.

With its fresh, medium, aged and extra old age designations, there are several different options available:
–Piave Fresco (20-60 days)
-Piave Mezzano (61-180 days)
-Piave Vecchio (>180 days)
-Piave Vecchio Selezione Oro (more than 12 months)
-Piave Vecchio Riserva (more than 18 months)

Regardless of your preference, the rich, nutty flavors of the cheese pair well with wine. In this regard, a recent press event hosted at Di Palo’s newest venture: C. Di Palo wine bar, showcased the pairing ability of the cheeses with the wines of
Garda Spumante DOC. These wines, named for Lake Garda and produced just 100 miles away from the Piave DOP area, offered up a fresh and effervescent option to cleanse one’s palate in between bites of cheese. Guests at the happy hour were invited to sample the Piave Mezzano and Piave Vecchio Selezione Oro in their unadulterated, delicious form, as well as a range of dishes prepared by Di Palo’s chef, utilizing both the cheeses and the wines in his recipes.

As Italy’s largest lake, Lake Garda splits its regional allegiance down the middle, with Lombardy to the west and the Veneto to the east. Here, drying breezes and the moderating influence of the lake permit the grapes to ripen sufficiently, while maintaining their bright acidity.

Established in 1996, the corresponding Garda DOC wine area encompasses the cities of Brescia, Mantua, Verona and is home to 10 appellations situated at the southern curve of the lake. It overlaps with other appellations, including the more well-known appellations (aka denominations) of Lugana, Custoza, Valpolicella, Bardolino, Soave and Valdadige.

Although the denomination permits the production of whites, rosés and reds, the core production centers on sparkling wines with 7 million bottles produced annually, with an estimated production increase to 20 million bottles in the next few years. These sparkling (aka spumante) wines may be made using either the Traditional (that used in Champagne) or Charmat (used in Prosecco production) Methods, depending upon the individual producer’s personal preferences. The white Garda DOC Spumante may use Garganega, Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano or Chardonnay, while the Rosé Garda DOC Spumante is produced from Corvina, Rondinella, Pinot Nero or Merlot. The wines range from Brut Nature (no sweetness) to Demi-Sec (dessert style) wines.

With the luscious cheese dishes served alongside the fragrant sparkling wines, it was a perfect evening of food and wine pairings. All in all, a delicious discovery and an embarrassment of riches!

C. Di Palo wine bar with its meticulous finishes. The beautifully restored sequoia wood on the bar and walls comes from a reclaimed water tower.

A Quad of Perfect Pairings from Kobrand’s Collection

Posted on January 15, 2020 by Tracy

Yes, you can reach for any old beverage at the dinner table, but there is something about the way that wine creates a magical connection with food that transforms an ordinary meal into an extraordinary meal, regardless of what you are eating. It’s a unique equation of 1 + 1 = 3 that can be replicated by few other libations.

An assortment of wines from Kobrand arrived at my doorstep, each providing a wonderful opportunity to match it to a particular meal. I was admittedly encouraged to pair these wines with Christmas cookies, but Christmas came and went and frankly, I don’t eat Christmas cookies.

Most of these meals consisted of take-out, but the wines elevated these simple dishes with their presence. And, we actually were inspired to create a chorizo paella for the Barbaresco and were not disappointed.

The Seeker Riesling 2018, Mosel, Germany, SRP: $13.99
The Seeker Riesling 2018 was a wonderful accompaniment to sushi. The crisp acidity of the wine married well with the freshness of the raw fish and its luscious mouthfeel matched with the cuisine’s umami characteristic. This wine hails from mineral-rich, slate soils in Germany’s Mosel region, with grapes 100% hand-harvested. After fermentation, the wine is aged in tank and oak cask for 3 to 8 months before being bottled in lightweight glass to reduce its carbon footprint.

Tasting Note: Aromas of lime zest and flowers greet the nose. The off-dry palate offers up high acidity, balancing the wine’s slight sweetness, with lovely citrus and lime, culminating in long length.

Caposaldo Moscato NV, Provincia di Pavia IGT, Lombardy, Italy, SRP: $14.99
This wine is much sweeter than the Riesling (with residual sugar coming in at 110 g/l compared to 25.5 g/l), so it is more suited to pairing with desserts than savory food. That being said, we opened it up with Thai take-out and really enjoyed it with our mango salad. The sweetness of the wine matched the sweetness of the fruit and its low alcohol (7% abv) kept our heads clear.

Tasting Note: Produced from 100% Moscato Bianco grapes, which are handpicked from 20-year-old vines, this wine provides a fresh and lively palate balancing the sugar. Aromas and flavors of peach and Asian pear dominate, with a slight effervescence due to a secondary fermentation; long length.

Vina Montes Alpha Carmenère 2017, DO Colchagua Valley, Chile, SRP: $21.99
A burger and fries might not be a healthy dinner option, but it was certainly tasty and was a lovely foil for the Carmenere, which is blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 55% aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (a combination of 1^st, 2^nd and 3^rd use). While not overly tannic, there were sufficient tannins to pair well with the protein the burger and the fruit-forward nature of the wine also added to the match.

Tasting Note: The nose is redolent of meatiness and earthiness, while the dry palate presents with very ripe dark red and black cherry fruit and coffee. This full-bodied wine provides good acidity, with medium-soft tannins and long length.

Michele Chiarlo Reyna Barbaresco DOCG 2015 (SRP: $49.99), Piedmont, Italy, SRP: $49.99
Eyeing this 100% Nebbiolo wine from such an esteemed region, I was anticipating an overly tannic, overly youthful wine, but was pleasantly surprised that it was showing so nicely, despite being capable of much lengthier aging. We transformed a cold winter’s night with the warmth of southern Spain, preparing our own chorizo paella, which went wonderfully with the Barbaresco.

Tasting Note: A very expressive nose of roses, cocoa, cherries, chocolate-covered cherries, slight earth/wet dirt persisted on the dry palate, along with medium+ acidity, firm tannins, medium+ body, along with a delicateness and elegance, with extremely long length.

Lini 910’s Lambrusco: New (to you) Wines to Welcome in the New Year

Posted on December 28, 2019 by Tracy

My philosophy has always been that everything is better that sparkles: wine, water, diamonds and personalities. And, while I happily drink sparkling wines all year round regardless of the occasion, I am especially fixated on fizz for New Year’s Eve.

This year, I had the pleasure of tasting through an assortment of Italian sparklers from wine importer Winebow ranging from Prosecco to Franciacorta. But, it was the duo of Lambrusco wines –a rosé and a vintage-dated rosso — that commanded my attention. These two wines were produced by Lini 910, a family-owned and operated winery, which was founded in 1910 and is presently run by Fabio Lini, a member of the fourth generation.

Hailing from Central Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, Lambrusco has been made as early as the middle of the 10th century. While there are stylistic differences among the various DOCs, in general, Lambrusco is produced via the Charmat Method and the resulting wines typically display high acidity, at least some effervescence, low alcohol and fruity and floral aromas. In addition, some producers do make Traditional Method wines, which are more similar to Champagne in their production.

Overall, these wonderful wines are extremely food friendly (which makes a lot of sense given that they come from a very gastronomic-focused area – the land of Parmigiana-Reggiano, Parma ham and Balsamic vinegar. Moreover, they pair equally well with cheeses and charcuterie as well as with heartier fare.

With their festive bubbles and bold red hues, they easily transform any day into a celebration, making them an excellent alternative to Champagne and other sparklers especially as we countdown to the new decade!

TASTING NOTES

Lini 910, Lambrusco Rosé NV, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, $25.00
Typical of the region, this wine is produced by the Charmat Method, the same method used in the production of Prosecco. This process retains the fresh fruit flavors of the grapes, which are present on the nose and palate of this lovely wine. Floral, fresh herbs and ripe cherries greet the nose and persist on the palate, with medium+ body, freshness and long length.

Lini 910, Lambrusco Metodo Classico Rosso Millesimato 2006, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, $40.00
As a Metodo Classico wine, this Lambrusco was crafted using the Traditional Method, the same production technique used in Champagne, whereby the wine spends a significant amount of time in contact with the spent yeast (aka lees). Given its more complex production, this wine offered up beautiful notes of yeast, cherries and berries. The rich blackberry flavors were balanced with lively acidity and very long length.

Looking for Affordable Burgundy Bottles? Look to Elden Selections for holiday pours and gifts.

Posted on November 30, 2019 by Tracy

I recently taught a wine class for the IWAGY wine club in Poughkeepsie, NY titled, “Affordable Southern Burgundy: Great Wines that Won’t Break the Bank.” While the presentation was primarily designed to introduce the audience to the lesser-known Burgundian districts of the Macon and the Cote Chalonnaise, they were eager to know about affordability.

Why? Well, it should come as no surprise to ardent wine lovers that Burgundy is often price prohibitive. As Ethan Fixell wrote in “The Hidden (Affordable) Gems of Burgundy” (1/2/2018), “There’s no gentle way to put this: Burgundy has become stupidly expensive.” And, in his NY Times article, “The Value of Burgundy, Regardless of the Price,” (May 9, 2019), Eric Asimov reinforced this sentiment, saying, “Speaking generally, Burgundy is nowadays the most coveted wine on the planet.[,]” citing the small production capacity and further noting, “The prices of Burgundy have shot upward in the last 20 years, to the point where the best wines are far beyond the means of most people.”

Asimov’s claims are backed by numbers: a Grand Cru Vineyard in the Cote d’Or that was valued at 7 million Euros in 2008 had jumped to 14 million Euros in 2018. And regional vineyards, though much cheaper (70,500 Euros/ha in 2017) are still not a bargain.

These exorbitant real estate prices, coupled with scant quantities – Burgundy production accounts for only 8.6% of all French AOP (quality) wine, 4.1% of all French production overall and only 0.6% of world production – means that it is challenging to find reasonably priced wines from the region. (Source: Vins de Bourgogne)

Burgundy has been producing wine for centuries, with its vignerons honing their craft and truly understanding the nuances of the region’s soils, climate and vineyards. Principally planted to Chardonnay (51%) and Pinot Noir (41%), these wines have become the benchmark for all others of these varieties and, not surprisingly, are highly regarded and sought after.

Yet, despite the dire outlook on overall affordability, it is possible to find more reasonably priced Burgundian wines if you know where to look. One place to check out is online e-tailer, Elden Selections. Founded in 1992 by Eleanor Garvin and Dennis Sherman, expats who have lived and worked in Burgundy for over 30 years, Elden Selections is a direct-to-consumer wine store focused almost exclusively on Burgundy. As such, it is unique in the U.S. and, equally important, they provide a wide range of Burgundian bottles from various appellations and price points within the region.

Elden offers a large selection of “everyday Burgundy” under $40.00 featuring regional and village level wines as well as those from smaller, hard to find appellations such as Irancy. And, in keeping with their desire to satisfy wine-drinking consumers, not wine collectors, the top priced wine is $300; not cheap by any means, but definitely more palatable than the staggering $1,500 or more per bottle that some rare wines can fetch.

Moreover, the wines are sourced from small quantity, minimal-intervention, farmer-made producers, rather than stocking wines from the large negociants. Having lived in the region for years, Eleanor and Dennis have strong relationships with the producers, tasting the wines multiple times to ensure quality.

Further, their site is easy to navigate, packed with educational information about the wines and their producers and permits consumers to purchase as few as one or as many wines as they wish. Case orders are shipped free of charge. Plus, they tout a no-questions-asked return policy (though, to date, no one has exercised this option).

Now is a great time to pick up a mixed case of Burgundy wines to serve with holiday dinners or to give as gifts.

Cultural Connections and the Art of Wine and Food

Posted on November 27, 2019 by Tracy

I was first introduced to the new line of Ferzo wines from Codice Citra back in May. Produced from the estate-grown fruit from a collaboration of family-owned vineyards within the Chieti province of Italy’s Abruzzo region, these wines offer up great taste and value.

Specifically, the Ferzo name refers to “patches of fabric stitched together to create a sail,” and symbolizes the piecing together of numerous plots of vineyards, within the southern part of the Abruzzo region.

The Codice Citra cooperative was founded in 1973 and focuses on local grapes such as the well-known Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo to more esoteric varieties. In addition to the Ferzo line, which made its debut into the U.S. market earlier this year, the coop’s portfolio includes three other ranges of wines (Citra, Caroso and Las Vitae.

In an effort to introduce more members of the press to this new set of wines, the winery’s importer, Winebow, hosted an unusual event at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Event guests were shepherded around the museum by Angelis Nannos of In Food We Trust, stopping at various works of art around the historic and vast buildings of the esteemed institution, all of which harkened back to humankind’s connection to food and beverages.

First on the “menu” was pickling during which Angelis regaled us of the story of St. Nicholas of Myra who saved three boys from being drowned in a pickling vat, one of the most ancient ways of preserving food that spans numerous cultures such as Korean kimchee and Jewish pickles.

From there, we headed to the alabaster reliefs of the Assyrian Royal Court, which recount a dinner party held for 69,000+ guests! Meanwhile, the Tomb of Mektre showcased the everyday activities of ancient Egypt including baking.

We learned about New York City’s long association with oysters as illustrated by a stunning Oyster Plate from the Union Porcelain Works and then completed our tour in front of Edward Hopper’s Tables for Ladies. This painting recalls the period of history when nice women were not permitted to dine alone until some entrepreneurial restaurateurs created women-only dining establishments, which offered “Tables for Ladies.” Here, unaccompanied women could safely enjoy a meal without tarnishing their reputations. Painted during the Depression, the painting also tells the story of shows of abundance contrasted with the stark reality of the scarcity of food during this time period.

At the conclusion of our jaunt through the museum, we headed upstairs to the dining room to enjoy some actual food and wine. Among the Ferzo line, there are three whites produced from 20 year old vines hand picked indigenous varieties, namely: Pecorino, Cococcioloa and Passerina. These three wines are all fermented in stainless steel, ensuring that the wines are fresh and fruit forward without any oak influence. A rosato (aka rose) and a Montepulciano d’Abuzzo round out the range.

Most recently, with its emphasis on Abruzzo’s viticultural history and a strong commitment to high quality wine, Codice Citra has brought on winemaker, Ricardo Cotarella as executive enologist and partnered with Leonardo LoCascio Selections, as its exclusive U.S. importer.

TASTING NOTES
Ferzo Passerina 2017, Terre di Chieti IGT, Abruzzo, Italy, $26.00
The ancient variety of Passerina is not well known, but is on the path to rediscovery, given recent interest in the grape in Abuzzo, Umbria and Le Marche (where it is produced within the Offida DOCG). This wine has a beautiful floral and fruity nose, with flavors of white flowers, juicy pineapple, pear and tropical fruit. On the palate, it offers up bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Ferzo Pecorino 2017, Terre di Chieti IGT, Abruzzo, Italy, $26.00
With the same name as the Italian word for sheep, it is now thought that this grape gets its name from the shepherds, not the sheep, who were eating these grapes when out in the mountains. Almonds, minerality and hint of pear greet the nose. On the palate, this wine is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium+ body and is quite angular. Flavors of nuts and minerals dominate, giving the wine weight and depth, before culminating in long length.

Ferzo Cococciola 2017, Terre di Chieti IGT, Abruzzo, Italy, $26.00
The Cococciola grape is cultivated in both Abruzzo and Puglia and is frequently compared to Sauvignon Blanc. This wine offered up more fruit character than the Pecorino, with more pronounced melon, pear and citrus, a hint of waxiness on the palate and just a slight note of nuttiness. It displays nice body, good depth and long length.

Caroso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2015 , Abruzzo, Italy, $30.00
Not to be confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, this wine is produced from the Montepulciano grape, grown in the Abruzzo region. The wine was beautiful, with a rich and fragrant nose of plums, with good acidity, integrated oak, soft tannins and long length.

Campania’s Sannio Wines Delight at Del Posto

Posted on November 27, 2019 by Tracy

Although I am generally familiar with the wines of Italy’s Campania region, namely through visits to Feudi di San Gregorio and Mastroberadino, I had never heard of Sannio. Or, admittedly, if I had, it was likely memorized for a wine exam and then promptly forgotten. My mistake…and my misfortune for overlooking these wines.

Thankfully the error of my ways has been rectified, thanks to a beautiful introduction to these wines back in October. We were welcomed to a sumptuous lunch at Del Posto restaurant by Consorzio President, Dr. Libero Rillo, who provided some background on this tiny territory in the province of Benevento. But, despite its small size (~10,000 hectares), it is important to the Campania region. Here, the emphasis is on the indigenous grape varieties of Aglianico, Falanghina and others.

The Consorzio itself dates in 1999 and comprises 400 members. It overseas several denominations including Aglianico del Taburno DOCG, which produces red or rose wines, Falanghina del Sannio DOP, which is restricted to white and sparkling as well as the Sannio DOP which offers a full range of styles. An IGP Benevento or Beneventano also exists.

The 10,000 hectares are allocated among nearly 10,000 wineries, including two cooperatives. Most are small and medium in size, producing a total of 25 million bottles annually among the IGT, DOC and DOCG designations. However, the consorzio is eager to increase its production, especially at the quality levels.

Attendees at the aforementioned press luncheon has the opportunity to explore the two vaunted denominations: Falanghina Sannio DOC and Aglianico del Tabruno DOCG, under the tutelage of Somm In the City, Sara Lehman. While the Falanghina grape has ancient roots, its name has much more modern origins thanks to the trellis poles aka “falanga” that were used to support the vines. The wine received its DOP status in 2013, and is known for its minerality, good acidity, and ability to age for 10-15 years, during which time it develops complexity. These grapes must be sourced from the hillsides where there is some elevation, which helps to avoid the humidity found on the valley floor.

The Aglianico del Tabruno DOCG harkens back to the Greeks who came to the area centuries ago, settling near Mt. Taburno. The wine’s DOCG status was bestowed in 2011 and comprises both red and rose wines. The rose, which doesn’t require any aging, is currently the only Italian rose to hold this designation level. The reds must be aged for a minimum of two years in wood and bottle, with the Riservas aged for three years in wood and another 12 months in bottle. These are powerful, tannic wines with complexity and good aging potential, known for aromas of blackberry, plum, violet and black pepper.

WHITE WINE TASTING NOTES
I deliberately limited my consumption of the Falanghinas knowing that we were going to taste a lot of reds with the seated lunch (we tasted 13 and I’ve included my notes on my 8 favorites). Accordingly, I limited my tasting to the sparkling Falanghina del Sannio DOP – V.S.Q. Brut from Cantina di Solopaca, which is one of the oldest co-ops in the area, with grapes sourced from the slopes of Mt. Taburno. It was refreshing, with good acidity and nice fruit aromas and flavors.

I also tasted the Mustilli Vigna Segreta Falanghina 2016, a wine produced from a cru vineyard known for its volcanic and limestone soils. It was rich and concentrated with good minerality and long length.

RED WINE TASTING NOTES
2018 Elena Catalano Sannio Aglianico 2018, Italy
This wine, produced solely in stainless steel, was youthful, with robust red and black fruit, firm tannins and good length.

Fattoria la Rivolta Pediarosso Taburno Sannio DOP 2018, Italy
Made from hand-harvested grapes grown on clay and volcanic soil, this wine offered up bright red fruit, lovely freshness and notes of pepper that lingered in the finish.

Cantina di Solopaca Barbera 2017, Italy
This wine is produced from 20 year old vines grown on clay and limestone soils on the slopes of Mt. Taberno, It offers up a very earthy nose, with a clay undercurrent and red fruit aromas and flavors.

Cautiero Sannio DOC Aglianico 2016, Italy
After moving to the city as adults, the winery’s owners returned to the countryside to pursue their love of wine and the land, choosing to focus on organic farming. The wine is tight and needs time, but displays nice black fruit and long length.

Terre Stregate Manent Sannio Aglianico 2016, Italy
This is a beautiful and balanced wine with lovely aromas and flavors of red fruit, earth and herbs, along with good structure. It spent 6-8 months aging in barriques.

Azienda Agricola Scompiglio Barbera del Sannio 2016, Italy
Lush and gorgeous on the nose and palate, this Barbera was floral in character with blueberry and blackcherry notes, lingering in the long length.

Azienda Agricola Castelle Aglianico Riserva 2015, Italy
As a Riserva-level wine, it spent the minimum three years aging in oak. It was lovely, yet tannic and will be better in time.

Torre del Pagus Aglianico Taburno DOCG 2013, Italy
This wine spent 12 months in oak, with another year aging in bottle before release. It was elegant, with good structure and lots of red fruit notes.

My Heart Belongs to Sicily and its Wines

Posted on November 27, 2019 by Tracy

Sicily will always have a cherished place in my heart. I visited the Italian region in 2013 and spent a week crisscrossing the island, learning its history and immersing myself in its wine culture. At the end of my visit, I found myself at Palermo Airport crying…and I wasn’t even heading home; I still had another two weeks in Italy before I returned to the U.S.!

Something about the magical week struck me hard and stuck with me. A Siren song, perhaps? In truth, Sicily is more associated with other mythical creatures than the sirens, but regardless, I was thankfully lulled to its vinous pleasures not to my untimely death.

Since that visit, I have been thrilled to watch Sicily’s dedication to improving excellence in its wine production. Under the leadership of Antonio Rallo president of Wines of Sicilia DOC (and agronomist and winemaker for his family’s Donnafugata winery), the region has seen the creation of the Sicilia DOC category, increasing the quality level and prominence of Sicilian wines.

Accordingly, well-established wineries have risen to the challenge, elevating their wines with an eye toward innovation, yet maintaining tradition. In this regard, they remain true to their culture and heritage with an emphasis on local varieties such as Grillo, Nero d’Avola and Frappato, grapes which have been cultivated in the area for centuries.

More specifically, the modern winery at Stemmari was built to reflect the rural architectural structure known as the baglio. Similarly, Baglio di Pianetto has embraced environmental sustainability and adopted organic farming practices while the ancient feudal domain of Feudo Principi di Butera once belonged to Sicily’s first prince (Ambrogio Branciforte), but has been restored by the well-known Zonin family. And all three producers respect and understand the various terroirs of the island region.

TASTING NOTES
Baglio di Pianetto Timeo Grillo 2018, Sicilia DOC, Italy, $13.00
Lovely notes of musk, minerality and wax greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is dry, with fresh acidity and medium body. It is more structured and less fruit focused, showing notes of pear and citrus, with elegance and long length.

Stemmari Cantodoro Rosso Riserva 2014, Sicilia DOC, Italy, $14.00
A blend of 80% Nero dA’Avola and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this rich and concentrated red wine features aromas of plums and earth. The dry palate offers up medium+ acidity, medium+ body, light tannins, and shows some development, with long length.

Feudo Principi di Butera Deliella Nero d’Avola 2014, Sicila DOC, Italy, $90.00
This wine is among the three esteemed cru level wines produced by Feudo Principi di Butera. It is a 100% Nero d’Avola from a single vineyard Deliella, named for the local district. The full-bodied wine is elegant with bright acidity, beautiful red fruit aromas and flavors, slight herbal characteristics on the nose and palate, which linger in the very long length.

A Sunday Fun Day with Bodega Eduardo Garrido Wines

Posted on October 30, 2019 by Tracy

Compared to many other industries, working in wine often does not feel like work. Such was the case on a recent Sunday afternoon when I had the pleasure of meeting Amelia Garrido and her husband, John. Amelia is the winemaker for Bodega Eduardo Garrido, a small, 4-hectare family estate in Spain’s Rioja region.

The winery was initially founded by 1923 by Vincente Garrido, Amelia’s grandfather. While Amelia’s father, Eduardo, now 86 years old, is still actively involved, Amelia is now at the helm of the operation, expanding the range of wines they produce. In this regard, she recently crafted a beautiful, unoaked white from Viura grapes, Blanco 2018. It was a vibrant, fresh wine which paired especially well with olive tapenade, but easily married with the wide range of tapas on the table.

Hosted at the home of Amelia’s importer, Sunday brunch was infused with typical Spanish cuisine and warm camaraderie. We ate, we drank and we laughed. New acquaintances quickly became fast friends as we broke bread and shared a wonderful meal with one another. Amelia regaled us with wonderful stories about her grandfather who knew not to accept the offer of cheese when tasting wines since the cheese would mask any potential faults in the wine as well as that of her husband, joking that he proposed to her at the top of a hill when she showed him her family’s estate and he mistakenly thought that it was a much larger estate.

Admittedly, I didn’t take proper tasting notes because I was too busy having a great time, but I assure you that all of the wines were lovely! In addition to the Blanco 2018, we tasted the Joven 2018 (100%Tempranillo, 20% of which was aged in oak for 3 months), Crianza 2015, Reserva 2014, and Gran Reserva 2007.

In general, Amelia prefers to use older oak, eliminating extremes in her wines. She says that the most important thing is good grapes; everything else comes from that.