Are you in an Asti vibe? A recent Masterclass was the perfect opportunity to reacquaint myself with these sweet, sparkling wines from Italy’s Piedmont region. With the goal of transferring the grape to the glass, these wines benefit from the Moscato Bianco grape variety’s highly aromatic character.
Situated within Piedmont is the province of Asti, at the foot of the Italian Alps. The climate is influenced by both the mountains and its proximity to the sea and the soils are comprised of ancient sea beds. Viticulture must be manual due to the significantly steep vineyards. The various altitudes and variety of soils conspire to produce a range of aromatic compounds that provide complexity in the glass.
Here, Moscato Bianco grapes have been grown in the area since 1510, a transplant from the Middle East. There are 51 towns who lay claim to the Moscato d’Asti DOCG, which was the first sparkling wine produced in Italy back in 1865 by Carlo Gancia.
Utilizing the Charmat Method, the wines are pressurized in stainless steel tanks, preserving the aromatics in the wine and adding a slight effervescence, with a maximum of 2 bars of pressure (by contrast Champagne and other fully sparkling wines have 5 yo 6 bars of pressure).
The production method also requires that the wines maintain sweetness. Consequently, they generally range from 120-150 g/l of residual sugar, which is well balanced with sufficient acidity and bubbles. This also means that these wines are much lower in alcohol with 5-6% alcohol by volume.
With this lightness, freshness and lower alcohol, these are great wines for the heat of summer and are a perfect pairing with fruit, light desserts or an excellent counterbalance to a salty, savory dish such as prosciutto with melon.
TASTING NOTES
Coppo Moncalvina Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy Coppo has been making Moscato since day one of the winery, among its other wines. Aromas of floral notes, gardenia and pear greet the nose. The palate is medium sweet, light bodied, with good effervescence and freshness. The acidity and sweetness are well balanced, with flavors of lemon candy and floral, culminating in long length.
Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy At Chiarlo, they take great pride in managing the Moscato vineyards with the same care they give to Barolo vines. The wine displayed lots of visible bubbles, with aromas of peach and blossom. The palate was less sweet than the Coppo, with great acidity, light body, peach flavors, persistent bubbles, and long length.
Caudrina La Caudrina Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy Redolent of honeysuckle, this wine is medium sweet, yet fresh, with lovely effervescence; flavors of honey, honeysuckle and hint of herbs; culminating in medium+ length.
I Vignaioli di Santo Stefano – Ceretto Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy A fresh nose with honey and cantaloupe aromas and flavors, this wine is off dry, with bright and lively acidity on the palate. The mouthwatering character of the wine lingers in the medium+ length.
Marenco Scrapona Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy The mention of Scrapona on the label refers to a specific vineyard from which the grapes for this wine are harvested. Slight skin contact resulting in a hint of color. White flowers, fresh, balanced, lightly sweet, pear, honey, long length with a clean finish.
I had the pleasure of serving as a juror for the 11th annual International Competition Grenaches du Monde. As such, I tasted through 80 wine samples featuring the Grenacha, aka Garnacha, grape, in all of its guises: white, rosé, red, and fortified sweet wines. This grape variety is capable of creating world class wines and, from the blind samples I tasted, it was clear that there is a lot of wonderful wine being produced and expertly showcasing this great grape.
Organized by the Asociación Garnacha Origen of Spain and the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Roussillon/ CIVR of France, this year’s competition was held outside of Europe for this very first time. It featured over 800 Garnacha/Grenache wines from producers across France, Spain, Italy, and the US, which were judged by a panel of 80 U.S. wine industry jurors, including sommeliers, media, distributors, importers, and influencers.
Wines were judged in early to mid-June, with the results announced this week. A total of 233 wines of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and 35 wines from the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) earned medals.
As I’ve written before, the Malbec grape originated in France and is currently grown in Bordeaux, the Loire Valley and Cahors. But, despite Malbec’s association with France, it is planted in much greater numbers in Argentina. More specifically, Argentina’s long relationship with Malbec dates to 1853 when agronomist Michel Aimé Pouget brought the grape to from Europe to the New World country, having been hired to run an agricultural school there. In addition to the school’s influence, Argentina’s early viticulture was also shaped by Italian and French immigrants, who brought their grape growing experience and expertise with them.
Not surprisingly, I have had the opportunity to compare and contrast Malbec-based wines in the past, both with regard to producer as well as with regard to region of production (i.e. Argentina vs. France).
However, I recently had the particularly interesting chance to taste two Malbecs side-by-side, which differed markedly in winemaking approaches: traditional red wine production vs. carbonic maceration.
Traditional red wine production is fairly well known and understood by consumers, but carbonic maceration is less familiar, since it is mostly confined to the production of Beaujolais Noveau. Utilizing intracellular fermentation, carbonic maceration typically produces lighter style wines with a fresh fruit flavor profile. This was not a winemaking technique brought to bear on the Malbec grape… until now. In fact, there appears to be a trend among Argentine producers (see: this story) in using this unusual approach with Argentinian grapes.
Now, joining this small coterie of carbonic macerators, Domaine Bousquet has added its Gaia Nouveau Malbec to the mix. Produced with certified organic Malbec grapes, winemaker Rodrigo Serrano decided, “Why not try to make a carbonic maceration Malbec?” Answering his own question affirmatively, the first wine was made with the 2022 vintage to rave reviews.
The counter balance, with a more traditional approach, was Antigal’s Uno Malbec 2019, also made with organic Malbec grapes and produced solely in stainless steel tanks (no wood/oak influence).
I was previously introduced to Antigal in 2018 (see story). Obviously a lot has happened in the world since then, so it was a pleasure to receive a sample of the current vintage of this wine to reacquaint myself. Proudly bearing its metallic numeral 1 breast plate, this wine comes from Antigal’s Uno collection.
Domaine Bousquet Gaia Nouveau Malbec 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00 (100% Malbec, certified organic) This wine presents with fresh berry aromas. It is light bodied, with fresh berries and a hint of earth, with lively acidity and bright freshness on the dry palate with long length.
Antigal Uno Malbec 2019, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00 (100% Malbec, organic grapes) This wine has a pronounced nose with black and blue fruit, spice and vanilla, which persist on the dry palate, with ripe, medium-firm tannins, culminating with medium+ length.
Earth Day has come and gone, but while the holiday is a reminder that we must protect and cherish our planet, a single day is obviously not enough to do so. To a very real and certain extent, EVERY day should be Earth Day!
Although we can find fault with many industries and organizations, within the world of wine, there are a number of important and impressive examples of wine regions and individual wineries who are making the investment and having an impact with their actions.
In particular, Domaine Bousquet stands as a beacon, having been organic from the “get go”. Along these lines, winery owner, Anne Bouquet refers to herself as an “Organic Revolutionary” and an “International Citizen”, both of which are well deserved and apt descriptors of her commitment to sustainability in all that they do. She is joined by lead winemaker, Rodrigo Serrano, in their quest to lead the region in organic viticulture and sustainability efforts. This “teacher’s soul” has been at the winery for the past five years, and is truly passionate about details in achieving these overarching goals.
The winery has been Certified Organic for over 25 years and has also been certified by Demeter and Biodyvin for its conversion to biodynamic viticulture. They have recently added ROC (regenerative organic certification) certification to their list of organic certifications and are 360 sustainable.
Equally telling, as of this year (2023), they are now a certified B Corp organization. “B Corp Certification is a designation that a business is meeting high standards of verified performance, accountability, and transparency on factors from employee benefits and charitable giving to supply chain practices and input materials.” (From B Lab) Some of their wines also are certified as organic Kosher, Vegan and Gluten-free.
Yet, they are not content to rest on their laurels; future endeavors seek to reduce their CO2 and H2O footprints, especially as there is less snow in the mountains due to climate change.
The winery is also expanding its focus to address other issues such as making low calorie wine, low alcohol wine and organic wine (as opposed to making wine with organic grapes, but with conventional winemaking). In this regard, the biggest challenge is to avoid using SO2, which is an antioxidant and anti-microbial, among other things. These expansions have been challenging, but rewarding as the results are finally realized in the glass.
Across the pond, the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano consortium in Italy’s Tuscany region has been similarly hard at work in pushing a sustainability agenda. The result of its hard work was its award of the Equalitas standard’s sustainability certification, making it the first (and currently only) Italian wine denomination to achieve this milestone. The certification trademark extends to the entire region and is the result of a program initially implemented in the early 1990s and then built upon over the years.
To receive this prestigious certification entails “compliance with a high number of environmental requirements (like biodiversity and the measuring of carbon and water footprints) and socio-economic requirements (like verifying that the principles of freedom of association and equal opportunity are respected).”
Among these efforts, in 2006, the consortium partnered with the municipal government to collect organic waste from the vineyards for use in the production of combustion biomass to supply energy to school and government buildings. Further, the region’s Carbon Footprint project became a national model in 2015.
Of course, these commitments are not at the expense of their commitment to making high quality wine. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is among Italy’s top designated wines having been promoted to DOCG status in 1980. Yet, it often gets overshadowed by its Tuscan neighbors: Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, whose wines also sport the Sangiovese grape.
The good news is that these wines are often well priced and provide great drinking pleasure. So you can feel good about their commitments to the Earth as you enjoy swirling, sipping and savoring them in your glass.
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES: Domaine Bousquet
Domaine Bousquet LO CA Chardonnay 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $14.00 LO CA is a local calorie and low alcohol wine, which required numerous attempts to get it right due to ensure a wine that was stable and of the quality they desired. The resulting wine has 9% abv and 2% residual sugar. Green apple, musk and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate with high acidity, minerality, medium body and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Virgin Red Blend 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $13.00 A combination of 35% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Cabernet Franc, this wine is USDA-certified organic and sulfite-free. A fresh and easy drinking wine, it offers up berries, plum, floral and black cherry, with medium acidity, medium body and good length.
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Pinot Noir 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00 Made with certified organic grapes, this wine took many years to perfect since Anne is very particular about her Pinot Noir. The time and effort were worth it with its complex aromas of smoke, tart cherry, and an earthy undertone. It is medium bodied with bright acidity and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Gran Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00 A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec (both of which are certified organic), this wine presents notes of vanilla, oak, black fruit and a slight leaf character on the nose. With Medium+ body, good acidity, firm ripe tannins, and black and blue fruit, it is ripe yet dry, culminating in long length.
TASTING NOTES: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A recent walk-around tasting event provided attendees with the opportunity to taste through a collection of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines as well as meet a few of the winery representatives.
Maria Stella Carletti, Winemaker at POLIZIANO Winery
Here are a few of my favorites (notes are limited):
Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy 95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot Fresh, with decidedly herbal characteristics, firmer tannins and floral notes.
Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2018, Tuscany, Italy Sangiovese, Canaiolo and other authorized grapes Meatier, with really nice depth and riper fruit.
Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy 70% Sangiovese and other red grape varieties Floral, powerful, with darker fruit, less tannic than some of the other wines.
Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy 90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino With complex notes of smoke, oak, black fruit, it has a lighter structure and texture, with a distinct cherry and leafy palate.
La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy Sangiovese, Merlot Rich and ripe with dark cherry aromas and flavors, firm tannins.
La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2018, Tuscany, Italy Sangiovese, Mammolo Floral with lush, ripe red fruit, soft tannins and long length.
Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy 90-95% Sangiovese, 5-10% other grapes, including Canaiolo and Colorino Cherry and plum, with dusty tannins, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.
Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano S. Caterina 2019, Tuscany, Italy 100% Sangiovese Intense nose and palate, with ripe red fruit and long length.
Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggio Stella 2017, Tuscany, Italy mostly Sangiovese Lovely and soft, with cherries, berries and vanilla.
Spring has been a long time coming this year. While Mother Nature graced us with a beautiful glimpse of picture-perfect weather in early April, the cold, wet weeks that followed left much to be desired. We are now happy to see the sun and feel its warmth, beckoning us outside. In a word (or more precisely two), it’s Picnic Season!
That means a lot of things, but chief among them is what wines to enjoy al fresco this spring and summer. In that regard, I recently had the very pleasant opportunity to taste through a selection of wines from Spanish wine producer, Hammeken Cellars. With Sailé Ramirez at the helm as CEO, the company has launched six new brands and planted over 250,000 trees as part of their sustainability program.
In fact, during that spring preview weekend in April, my husband and I had a picnic date night in Fort Tryon Park, toting along two rosés from their collection: Radio Boka Rosé and Sedosa Rosé.
Outside was no longer an option for a while, so the Radio Boka Verdejo was enjoyed indoors at the dining table, but the Gotas de Mar Albarino was a welcome companion as I introduced my friend, Sharon, to the joys of fancy picnics when we met up in Prospect Park for lunch and a production of Molière’s Tartuffe.
In keeping with the theme of freshness and al fresco dining, I’m including tasting notes from a recent seminar with Domaine Bousquet, since several of its current releases are also perfect picnic pairings, particularly, their sparkling rose and LO CA Chardonnay.
TASTING NOTES
WHITES
Radio Boka Verdejo 2021, VDT Castilla, Spain, $12.00 Aromas of bitter almond, pear, and citrus on both the nose and palate, this complex wine offers up medium body, medium acidity and long length.
Gotas de Mar Albariño 2022, Rias Baixas, Spain, $25.00 Produced from 100% Albariño from 15-25 year old vines, this wine was aged for six months on its lees. Notes of citrus and riper tree fruit are joined by minerality and salinity, with medium body, good acidity and long length.
Domaine Bousquet LO CA Chardonnay 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $14.00 LO CA is a local calorie and low alcohol wine, which required numerous attempts to get it right due to ensure a wine that was stable and of the quality they desired. The resulting wine has 9% abv and 2% residual sugar. Green apple, musk and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate with high acidity, minerality, medium body and long length.
ROSÉS
2021 Radio Boka Rosé, VDT Castilla, Spain, $12.00 Tasted alongside the Sedosa rosé, this wine was less ripe, with slightly higher acidity. It is redolent of fresh raspberries and citrus, with medium body and long length.
Sedosa Organic Rosé 2021, VDT Castilla, Spain, $20.00 Comprised of 100% Bobal from 15 year old vines, this wine is pale salmon in color with aromas of berries, and melon and a hint of floral. The dry palate provides ripe fresh berries, good acidity and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose NV, Uco Valley, Argentina, $13.00 This sparkling wine is produced using the Charmat Method, bringing together 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. Deep salmon in color, with a persistent bead, it is fresh and lively with tart cherry notes, a lovely mousse and long length.
While the clouds kept the sun at bay, the view from the Ritz Carlton’s 50th floor was no less stunning. Lower Manhattan as well as Lady Liberty herself were visible just beyond the array of wine glasses as we waited for the tasting event to start.
Here, at Chef José Andrés’ latest NYC outpost, Nubeluz, a unique opportunity to taste the history of Rioja was proffered by Mercedes García Rupérez, Chief Winemaker for Bodegas Montecillo and Paco Fernandez, Area Manager for Bodegas Osborne.
Established in 1870 by the Navajas family and located in the heart of the Rioja region, Bodegas Montecillo is the third oldest winery in Rioja. It was the first winery in Fuenmayor and was named for the small mountain nearby (montecillo literally translates as small mountain). In 1973, Bodegas Montecillo’s third generation winemaker, Jose Luis Navajas, had no descendants and looked to collaborate with Bodegas Osborne as a way of carrying on the winery’s legacy. Hence, Paco Fernandez’s presence at the event. Yet, despite the change in ownership, the winery continues to maintain its strong and proud heritage as it also seeks to maintain its relevance into the far future.
Now at Montecillo for almost 15 years, Mercedes previously spent 16 years at Osborne’s Malpica Estate and vineyards in Chile prior to her arrival in Rioja. When she was first brought on as winemaker, Bodegas Montecillo only specialized in classically styled Rioja. After ensuring the high quality of the existing wines, she turned her attention to expanding the winery’s repertoire to include more modern styles as well. Regardless of the style, like many premium producers, she generally exceeds the minimums in making her wines.
Of note was the beautiful pairing of food and wine, displaying the food friendly, versatile nature of the wines. Although Nubeluz doesn’t typically serve much in the way of food, we were treated to some of the highest quality Serrano ham and other delicious fare. .
In particular, the first Course featured Croquetas de Jamón, Pan Con Tomate, Tomato Goat Cheese Cone and Josés Taco (nori, caviar, jamon and gold leaf). The second Course was a choice between Grilled Seasonal Vegetables with Romesco and China’s Sweetest Tomato Salad. For the third course, I chose the Solomillo Jamon Confit Piquillos. Dessert was a selection of Chef Victor’s Sweet Cones: Smores, mont blanc (caramel milk cream), dulce de leche, and thai basil.
As the tasting underscored, there is a real and distinct history to the company and its wines. They can clearly withstand the test of time, given their excellent quality and aging potential. As a further example of their ageability, Mercedes and Rocio graciously shared one of the few remaining bottles of the Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial 1973 with us. It was also enlightening to be able to compare and contrast the classic and modern wines, finding something to enjoy about each of them. Moreover, it showed that the winery remains au current as it moves into its next chapter.
TASTING NOTES
Singladuras Albariño 2021, Rias Baixas, Spain, $20/bottle Produced from 100% Albarino, this wine undergoes batonage to add depth and complexity to the wine and spends time in the bottle before release to soften the acidity. With aromas of citrus, pith, slight yeast, and minerality, it has bright acidity, medium body, and long length. It is extremely fresh, with a lovely salinity on the palate due to the influence of, and proximity to, the Atlantic Ocean.
Bodegas Montecillo Reserva 2014, Rioja, Spain, $20/bottle A classic style Rioja, with an eye toward producing a complete and balanced wine, this brings together 92% Tempranillo and 8% Mazuelo, which are aged for 24 months in mixed oak barrels (65% French and 35% American). Notes of smoke, oak, strawberry/berries greet the nose. It is dry, with medium+ body, medium acidity, medium, grainy tannins, are joined by spice, vanilla, and marmalade fruit, culminating in long length.
Bodegas Montecillo Gran Reserva 2010, Rioja, Spain, $40/bottle Another classically-styled wine, Mercedes notes her aim in crafting the Gran Reserva is elegance. Hailing from a great vintage, this blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Graciano, is sourced from vines with an average age of 40 years. The wine is aged for 28 months in oak barrels (a combination of French and American) and then rests in bottle for at least 4 years before release. It offers a shy nose, with dark red fruit, dried spice and vanilla, which persist on the palate. Its ripe tannins are firmer than the Reserva 2014, with good acidity and very long length. It can definitely age further.
Bodegas Montecillo Edición Limitada 2016, Rioja, Spain, $25-27/bottle Stepping out of the traditional mold, Mercedes’ intention with the Edicion Limitada is to produce a different and more modern wine with more fruit and less oak. Comprised of 70% Tempranillo and 30% Graciano, this grapes for this wine come from 40-year-old vines from two special, high altitude plots. After fermentation, it is aged for 25 months in oak and then aged in bottle for another two years. An intense nose of strawberry and blackberry with firm, ripe tannins, fresh acidity, medium+ body, a slight herbal note and long length. It was fruitier than the previous two wines with a softer palate.
Bodegas Montecillo 22 Barricas Gran Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain, $50/bottle Another modern style wine, the 22 Barricas is only made in great vintages such as 2010 and 2015. Mercedes first made this wine by hiding 22 barrels (thus, its name) from the winery owner to take a new approach. All of the grapes (a blend of 50% Tempranillo, 25% Graciano, 15% Garnacha and 10% Mazuelo) are hand harvested and the wine is aged in barrel for 32 months before resting in bottle for at least 38 months. A pronounced nose of vanilla and dark, lush fruit. This wine displays firm tannins – needs time to develop, intense fruit on the palate as well, and, overall, is beautiful and elegant, with long length.
Bodegas Montecillo Gran Reserva Selección Especial 2005 Rioja, Spain, $200/bottle With only a very small quantity produced, this wine was made in honor of the winery’s 150th anniversary. The 70% Tempranillo, 20% Graciano and 10% Maturana Tinta were barrel aged for 62 months and rested in bottle for more than 9 years. It offers up aromas of dried flowers, dried herbs and dried red fruit, joined by flavors of coffee and spice on the beautifully complex palate. It is dry with a sweet attack, still firm, yet ripe, tannins, and long length.
Bodegas Montecillo Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial 1973, Rioja, Spain, N/A Made from 100% Tempranillo sourced from vines with an average age of 50 years, this is the last vintage made by the founding Navajas family. Sweet nose of faded flowers, particularly dried rose, slight spice, faded fruit of dried raspberries, this is a beautifully elegant wine, with long length.
I’ve sung the praises of Domaine Bousquet in the past (See this article and that) and its wines continue to impress. Among the top export wines of Argentina, Domaine Bousquet continues to be the country’s leader in organic wines.
More specifically, Domaine Bousquet has been dedicated to organic viticulture since its very beginning. Today, there continues to be a clear and significant commitment to such activities.
These are well-made wines, available at a reasonable price, and are definitely great go-to wines you can feel confident to serve at your table or to gift to friends and family.
Tasting Notes
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Certified Organic Chardonnay 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, SRP $18 It was fresh and unoaked, with apple and citrus aromas and flavors, bright acidity, medium + body and long length. Overall, it was simply lovely and a big hit at our condo’s holiday party.
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Certified Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina SRP $18 With its intense nose of blackberry, pepper and oak, this wine displays good acidity, medium tannins, medium body and a slight woody note before culminating in long length. It is easy to drink and very enjoyable.
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Certified Organic Malbec 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina SRP $18 Lush dark berry fruit greets the nose, with a fresh palate, medium body, ripe tannins and a hint of spice in the finish, with long length. This was the perfect pairing with bison (our freezer is stocked with tons of bison thanks to a Costco delivery courtesy of my mom).
These wines may be purchased online or at a retailer near you.
I’ve noticed an interesting trend recently of food and wine products banding together to take their message to the masses. Case in point, the Charming Taste of Europe Consortium dinner I attended a few weeks ago. I think this is a great idea and, frankly, it makes a lot of sense since it can be challenging to showcase a single product and moreover, we don’t eat and drink in a vacuum.
This type of collaborative effort was also seen at the Mediterranean Aperitivo event, which was held at Eataly Flatiron’s winter wonderland rooftop in mid-December. As I was unable to attend, the organizers offered me the opportunity to recreate the festivities at home and I happily accepted.
Admittedly unsure what to expect, I was pleasantly surprised to receive a cute package revealing Vermouth di Torino PGI, Pecorino Toscana PDO, a Costa d’Amalfi PGI Lemon and Greek olives, along with an informative guide. You’ll spot a lot of letters in the above product names and that’s both intentional and important.
Specifically, PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) are legal terms that mean that the products have been deemed by the European Union to be of high quality and of particular connection to a territory or geographical area. Much like Champagne (a sparkling wine that only comes from the Champagne region in France), these labels signal to the consumer that this is a special product coming from a very specific place.
Vermouth di Torino PGI: While many people are familiar with vermouth in the context of a martini, they may not know precisely what vermouth is. It is, in fact, an aromatized wine. In this regard, a local wine has been infused with local, aromatic plants. Think of it as the gin of wine! Vermouth is commonly produced in alpine areas and Piedmont’s Torino, at the foothills of the Alps, is no exception. The region’s vermouth developed its stellar reputation in the 18th century and has continued to uphold the same standards and receive continued recognition.
While the guide suggested making a classic martini, paired with the enclosed Greek olives, our household was a bit shy of the required quantities of either gin or vodka at that moment. Instead, I opted to mix up a slightly altered version of the guide’s other recipe, Contessa of Piedmont, substituting the sweet vermouth for the dry and Campari for the Aperol. It was well balanced and delicious with floral and botanical notes!
Pecorino Toscano PDO: While pecorino is a general term for cheese produced from sheep’s milk, Pecorino Toscano PDO hails specifically from sheep’s milk produced in Tuscany and a few municipalities in Umbria and Lazio. It can be made as a soft or semi-hard cheese, depending on the maturation (20 days and four months minimums, respectively). It was relatively mild and slightly salty, with nice richness.
Costa d’Amalfi PGI: Groves for the Costa d’Amalfi PGI lemons were first planted between the 10th and 12th centuries along the coast from Positano and Cetara in Campania. Interestingly, these should not be confused with the lemons of Sorrento, which have their own PGI and are a different variety of lemon. The Costa d’Amalfi lemons are quite large, weighing a minimum of 100 grams and are less acidic than the typical, store-bought lemon. These lemons frequently find their way into limoncello, but as was evidenced by enjoying it on its own, they are great in their unadulterated form, with freshness, beautiful fragrance and bright acidity.
Greek olives: Finally, we have the olives produced in Western Greece, which has a biblical history of olive groves. Formal cultivation of olives within Greece dates to 3500-2500 BCE. Today, the area is home to 150 million olive trees, 600,000 olive farmers and 2,800 mills. The type of olives wasn’t specified, but I suspect them to be Kalamata olives, with their intense briny, acidic and salty flavors.
After making my cocktail and plating up the cheese, olives and crackers, I sat down to enjoy a wonderful collection of tastes and flavors, all of which proved to be a perfect pairing. Overall, I encountered lots of freshness on the plate and in the glass. The next time you are shopping for various ingredients, reward your palate by seeking out the unique products that are produced in very special places. Salut!
Looking for some new wines to grace your holiday table this season? Or, just want to expand your wine knowledge? Check out the dry wines from Abruzzo and the sweet wines from Bordeaux!
A recent dinner at Lincoln Ristorante welcomed members of the wine press and trade in an effort to better acquaint us with the wines from Abruzzo (Italy) and the sweet wines from Bordeaux (France). This was a wonderful opportunity to reconnect with colleagues after a lengthy hiatus as well as taste through a selection of amazing wines (and delicious food).
Prior to the evening, I had only limited exposure to the wines from Abruzzo, mostly aware of its Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines, but the meal provided a much more in-depth look at the region and the high quality wines it produces.
An historic region, the wines from Abruzzo were mentioned by Pliny the elder. In particular, the centrally located Abruzzo is home to both the Adriatic Sea as well as steep mountains (65% of the region is mountainous and 30% of the land is protected by natural parks) and has a mild climate that becomes more continental in character as one moves inland. Consequently, one can ski during the day and then be at the sea within 30 minutes.
Wine production includes 2 DOCG-level wines, 7 DOCs and 7 IGT (regional) wines. As with elsewhere in Italy, co-ops are very important to the scene, but there are also 200 private wineries in Abruzzo.
Here, the two main varieties are the two already mentioned: the red Montepulciano, which accounts for 80% of production and the white Trebbiano, which is the second most planted grape in the region. This latter variety dates to the 16th century and is considered to be a more more elegant version of the Trebbiano variety, and has the ability to age well.
Another grape of note in the region is Pecorino, which had almost become extinct, but thankfully has had a revival. Grown in both the Le Marche and Abruzzo regions, it is a variety with great acidity, structure and good aging potential.
We next enjoyed a Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, which, when established in 2010, was the first designation in Italy dedicated exclusively to rosé wine. The word cerasuolo refers to the deep pink color of these wines, which are produced from the Montepulciano grape.
Finally, we had a Riserva-level Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which displayed the beauty of these wines, which have elegance and powerful, along with good fruit character, complexity, balance and length.
After our foray into the Abruzzian wines, we turned our attention to dessert. As their name implies, the Sweet Wines of Bordeaux offer up beautiful sweetness in the glass and make for a perfect liquid dessert. Yet, they are versatile enough to pair with savory foods as well, with bright acidity and balance accompanying the sweet notes. At dinner, one had a choice between a cheese course or a chocolate-based dessert, both of which paired equally well with the two Bordeaux wines.
Bordeaux’s sweet wines feature the grape varieties of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and (in some cases) Muscadelle and are produced in several styles as well as several different appellations.
The Bordeaux Moelleux are among the lighter-style wines with nice freshness and sweetness. Conversely, those produced as Bordeaux Supérieur are fuller-bodied, can include Muscadelle in the cepage and are aged for a period of 6 to 18 months in wood vessels.
Additionally, Côtes de Bordeaux Saint-Macaire, covers a geographic area along the right bank of the Garonne River, while Premières Côtes de Bordeaux is used for those made from grapes grown in the vineyards of 39 towns that extend across the right bank of the Garonne river located south of Bordeaux.
However, the wines from the more specific appellations are the ones perhaps best compared with their siblings from Sauternes. In this regard are the wines from Cadillac, Cérons, Loupiac and Saint-Croix-Du-Mont. The Cadillac appellation (AOC) was established in 1972, while Cérons AOC dates to 1936. The Cadillac wines are produced from late harvest grapes, while grapes for Cerons are affected by noble rot. Regardless, both adhere to strict selections during harvest, all of which is done by hand, with the wines aged for 12 to 18 months. Two other well-regarded appellations are Loupiac, which is the largest of them all, and Saint-Croix-Du-Mont, both of which are produced similarly to Cadillac and Cérons.
While these may not be familiar names to you, the bottom line is that one should keep Bordeaux in mind when it comes to the dessert course.
In this day and age, we are blessed to have access to a wealth of wonderful wines from all over the world, but it is easy to fall into a rut and reach for the same wines time and again. If that sounds like you, I urge you to step out of your comfort zone and explore these two sets of wines; your palate will thank you!
Wishing you all the best for the holiday season and beyond!
TASTING NOTES
Nic Tartaglia Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy Aromas and flavors of pear and white flowers, with bright acidity, medium body, and long length. Paired with Long Island Fluke Crudo or Misticanza Salad
Fontefico La Canaglia Pecorino d’Abruzzo Superiore DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy As a wine with the Superiore designation, it has been aged for one year, but, in this case, in stainless steel, not wood. Notes of apricot and smoke greet the nose, with a dry palate of medium acidity, medium+ body, culminating in long length. Paired with Risotto.
Velenosi Prope Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy Beautiful in color, this wine offers up fresh berries and zippy acidity, with good minerality, It is complex and structured, with medium+ body and is much more substantial on the palate than a Provencal-style rose. Good length. Paired with Branzino or Dry Age Strip Loin.
Masciarelli Villa Gemma Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Riserva 2017, Abruzzo, Italy Intense nose of red and black fruit, with firm, yet ripe tannins, this wine was aged for 24 24 months before release. It had lovely complexity, good fruit and very long length. Paired with Branzino or Dry Age Strip Loin.
Chateau de Garbes Cuvee Fut de chene Cadillac AOC 2019, Bordeaux, France Produced from old vines, this wine was aged for 12 months in oak. It was luscious, with good acidity to balance the sweetness and notes of apricot and other stone fruit. Paired with Cheese (Aged Parmesan) or Pinola Al Cioccolato.
Chateau Loupiac-Gaudiet Loupiac AOC 2017, Bordeaux, France Made from botrytized grapes (90% Semillion; 10% Sauvignon Blanc) from 45-year-old vines, this wine displays lovely fruit, spice and vanilla, culminating in long length. Paired with Cheese (Aged Parmesan) or Pinola Al Cioccolato.
Located in Italy’s Lombardy region, Oltrepo Pavese gets its name from its location on the “other side” of the Po River, the longest in Italy. Home to over 220 indigenous grape varieties, this region is extremely diverse, producing wines that range from still and sparkling, to dry and sweet and everything in between. Additionally, it’s shared borders with the regions of Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna and Liguria have exerted their influence on the resulting wines as well.
As the third largest grower of Pinot Noir (lagging only behind Burgundy and Champagne), Pinot in its many guises is well represented here. Known by the Italian Pinot Nero, the grape is made into sparkling, white and red wines. Pinot Grigio is also widely planted. Interestingly, due to Lombardy’s historic ties to the Savoy kingdom, Riesling is also found in its vineyards.
The diversity is further reflected in its many different sub-denominations. For example, there are four alone just for Metodo Classico sparkling wines. Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese refers to a lightly sparkling (frizzante) red wine produced from a minimum of 85% Croatina, supplemented with up to 15% of Barbera, Ughetta, and/or Uva Rara. Finally, the unusually titled Sangue di Giuda is named for the legend that Judas came back to life to atone for his betrayal of Jesus, ultimately helping to end an epidemic in the vineyards. This sweet red can be lightly or fully sparkling and may be produced from 25-65% Barbera, 25-65% Croatina, with the remainder being Uva Rara, Ughetta and/or Pinot Nero, up to a maximum of 45%.
Thus, it was a fun and festive introduction to these wines at Sottocasa, an authentic thin-crust pizza restaurant in Harlem, which was the site for an informal wine dinner. Our meal featured an assortment of Oltrepo Pavese wines paired with a selection of salads, pizzas and people. Yet, the informal nature of the event did not mean that the wines were any less complex or of low quality. In fact, they were quite delicious and easy to pair with both the savory and sweet dishes on the crowded table.
Moreover, the diversity of vinous flavors, coupled with the hodge podge of people and food, was the perfect proving ground for Thanksgiving, which we will celebrate in the U.S. this week. While Oltrepo Pavese may be situated on the other side of the Po, this time of year in the U.S. we are metaphorically heading “Over the river and into the woods… to grandmother’s house…” to celebrate Thanksgiving with family, friends or both, with our own assortment of culinary traditions on the table.
The sparkling, white and red wines of Oltrepo Pavese should be a welcome addition to your feast throughout the holiday season and beyond with their flexible, food-friendly nature.
TASTING NOTES
The following wines were those we tasted at Sottacasa, but you can search out whatever Oltrepo Pavese are available at your local wine store.
Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021 100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks This was my preference among the Pinot Grigios, but they were all quite good.
Ca di Frara Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021 100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks
Ca Montebello Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pinot Nero Vinificato in Bianco 2021, $25 100% Pinot Nero. Vinified as a white wine, this Pinot was extremely fresh and lively, light bodied, really beautiful and super easy to drink. It was a crowd favorite at our meal.
Castello di Luzzano Sommossa Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021, $23 100% Croatina. This dry, sparkling red, was produced using the tank method, with raspberries and blackberries, and long length.
Losito & Guarini Giovannella Fugazza Bonarda Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC C’Era Una Volta NV, $20 100% Croatina, tank method.
Dino Torti Oltrepo Pavese DOC Barbera Route 66, 2019, $25 100% Barbera, aged in Fench barrique for 18 months. I didn’t take good notes, but I did enjoy this fresh, medium-bodied red.
Tenuta Travaglino Pinot Nero Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pernero 2021 100% Pinot Nero, tank fermentation, 6 months aging on the lees. A light-bodied red, with good cherry fruit, a hint of herbaceousness and lively acidity.
Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Sangue di Guida Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021 Croatina, Uva Rara, Barbera, field blend, Martinotti Method. This off dry, red sparkling wine was lovely and fresh and a good pairing with dessert.
