Happy Summer! It’s that time of the year when I finally venture outdoors and partake in my favorite pastime – picnics! While I got off to a good start, it’s been a bit quiet lately, but I am looking forward to the holiday weekend to make up for lost time. Regardless, I am super excited about some of my newfound picnic discoveries.
We kicked off the summer season in late April (yes, it is a stretch and it was especially windy on the date in question, but anyway …) with Bisol’s anniversary celebration. This historic Prosecco Superiore producer (see previous stories on Prosecco Superiore here) dates from 1542 and has a member of the 21st generation, Gianluca Bisol, at its helm. The event was held at the Lemon Rooftop in NYC’s Hudson Yards, with its spectacular views of the Hudson River. With free-flowing sparkling wine, guests were provided with the wonderful opportunity to taste through a selection of their Proseccos including: *Bisol Crede, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG *Jeio Brut, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG *Jeio Prosecco Rosé DOC NB: Rosé has only recently been approved to be included in the Prosecco DOC and is not permitted for the DOCG.
While you can enjoy these wines anytime of year, the effervescent nature of the wines and celebratory nature of the event, with its great music, good food and delicious wines, were a festive reminder that summer and lighter times were just around the corner.
I am also a bit in love with wines in can from Domaine Bousquet (which I’ve written about previously), which are perfect for their portion control and portability. These lightweight, aluminum cans of 100% certified organic wine are a great option for picnics, beaches that permit alcohol and any other outdoor activities where food and wine are welcome. Plus, they cool quickly and add a lovely flair to your al fresco meals with their food friendly nature and freshness.
A blend of Pinot Noir, Syrah, Pinot Gris and Viognier, Le Petit Verre Bubbly Rosé is slightly effervescent, and offers up lovely citrus and berry notes, with bright acidity on the dry and balanced palate, with long length.
The Le Petit Verre Malbec delivers ripe black fruit aromas and flavors, with good acidity and some complexity, culminating in long length. It was a perfect foil for my BBQ burger craving over Memorial Day Weekend.
These Argentine wines hail from Tupungato,vineyards in the Mendoza region. At an SRP of $13.00 for a four-pack, each 250-ml can provides approximately a glass and a half of wine, at roughly $3.50 per can.
And finally, it was a pleasure to taste two wines from Monte Velho, which provided yet another reminder that Portuguese wines provide great value and great taste. These wines are produced in the Alentejo region and are wonderful examples of indigenous Portuguese varieties. Here, blending has a long history, but today’s wineries are bringing a more modern approach with the deliberate planting of varieties in specific vineyards, rather than relying on the field blends of yesteryear.
A blend of Antão Vaz, Perrum, and Roupeiro, the Monte Velho White 2021 is clean and fresh with medium to full body, with good concentration of ripe white fruits and citrus on the dry palate, with briny minerality and long length.
The Monte Velho Rosé 2021 brings together Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Syrah, Trincadeira and Tinta Caiada, and Arinto, yielding a wine with fresh strawberry and raspberry notes, and a hint of herbaceousness. With medium acidity, medium body and long length, this dry wine was both refreshing and food friendly.
Both wines retail at $12.00/bottle and are certified vegan by the European Vegetarian Union. Moreover, they are shipped in eco-friendly packaging with lighter-weight bottles and 100% varnish-free, recycled cardboard.
I hope these wines inspire your own al fresco dining this summer season!
There are meditation wines, cocktail-party wines and those that are really best enjoyed with food. With the holiday season upon us, the latter two are in particular demand as we head to family gatherings, holiday parties and other social events.
Wines best for the table generally have bright, vibrant acidity, which I have heard by one sommelier described as a “highlighter” of the meal, underscoring the flavor of the food. In this regard, there are a wide variety of choices with all colors (white, orange, rose and red) as well as both the absence and presence of effervescence very welcome in one’s glass.
Here are a wealth of options to consider as you shop the wine aisle or webpage of your favorite retailer or peruse the wine list while dining out.
Sparkling wines As noted above, sparkling wines are very food friendly and most have beautiful acidity. Moreover, the sparkle in sparkling wines further cleanses the palate and makes them great for toasting at the table. Plus, we can’t discount the fun factor that bubbles add to any occasion, so they are especially appropriate for the celebratory season.
I’ve written about Prosecco Superiore numerous times (see this, this and this) because these are well-made wines at a great price. Produced via the tank method, these wines emphasize fruit and floral aromas and flavors and some have a slight sweetness (but are still decidedly dry) that can pair well with spice.
Albino Armani Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Veneto, Italy $19.99 Aromas and flavors of floral and pear, with nice consistent perlage, freshness on the palate, culminating in long length.
White and Orange Wines Many white wines are good pairing partners due to their acidity, light to medium body and range of flavors to mix and match with what is being served. This is equally true of Chardonnay, plus it has some additional characteristics which work well with food such as its fuller body, which means it can stand up to richer, heavier fare. Similarly, those Chardonnays with buttery or woody notes are great options if you wish to echo these flavors in the food. For example, a rich, buttery Chardonnay paired with lobster tails in a creamy butter sauce.
Merry Edwards 2019 Olivet Lane Chardonnay, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00 Aromas of butter and smoke greet the nose and persist on the elegant palate, with apple and citrus flavors, good acidity, medium+ body and very long length.
Another “white” variety with some chameleon properties is Pinot Grigio (also known as Pinot Gris). In fact, the grape is not white, but rather gray (hence its name — both grigio and gris translate as gray in Italian and French, respectively). Yet, it can be produced in shades of white as well as orange.
Albino Armani Corvara Pinot Grigio 2019, Valdadige DOC, Italy, $14.99 Notes of smoke and tangerine give way to pear and minerality on the dry palate, with medium acidity, medium+ body and long length.
About Albino Armani Albino Armani is a family-owned winery with five wineries situated in Northeast Italy and is particularly well regarded as a producer of Pinot Grigio (the family has been producing it for 400 years). In fact, Mr. Armani is presently President of the Consorzio Pinot Grigio delle Venezie. He believes that the best climate for this grape is a cool climate with temperatures that range 55-59F, otherwise the resulting wines are lacking in acidity. In this regard, the Alto Adige region is perfect with its continental climate, good diurnal shifts and extended daylight hours. He produces several Pinot Grigio wines, including two single vineyard bottlings: one from the Corvara Vineyard and the other from the Colle Ara Vineyard.
Found within Valdadige, the Corvara Vineyard is surrounded by mountains, whose limestone rock reflects sunlight onto the vines. Constant winds from these mountains and nearby Lake Garda help ward off disease.
From the Colle Ara Vineyard within the Terra dei Forti denomination (which was created 25 years ago), Albino produces a ramato style Pinot Grigio. Pale copper in color, this hue of this wine stems from skin contact: the grape juice is macerated with the grape skins for a brief period of time leaching color from the skins. Recalling the wines of his childhood, Albino sought to reintroduce this traditional production method in creating this wine.
Lighter-bodied Reds: Schiava and Pinot Noir Lighter bodied reds, especially ones with bright acidity, are another terrific option since they won’t overpower the food, but still have freshness to cleanse the palate. Two such grapes that fit this bill are Schiava and Pinot Noir.
Certainly not a household name (at least not yet), the Schiava grape variety (also known as Vernatsch or Trollinger) hails from the Alto Adige region of Italy, where It has been cultivated since the 16th century. The variety is also grown in Germany, especially in the Baden-Wurttemberg area. Overall, these wines are lighter bodied, dry reds with aromas and flavors of berries, almonds and violets.
Today, the grape is finding renewed favor in the region, with more attention paid to quality both in the vineyard areas and in the winery. Thankfully, many older (80-100 year old) vines still exist, which adds complexity to the wines. With their vibrant acidity, light body and low tannins, Schiava wines are well suited to a wide range of cuisine including charcuterie, cheeses, pasta dishes, pizza as well as Asian cuisine.
Alois Lageder Vernatsch – Schiava 2020, Alto Adige, Italy, ~$20.00 Pale garnet in color, this wine has a stunning nose of cranberry and earth. The palate is dry, with tart acidity, medium- body and flavors of earth, cranberry, pomegranate, and smoke, finishing with medium+ length.
Castel Sallegg Wine Estate Schiava Bischofsleiten 2020 Sudtirol, Alto Adige Lago di Caldaro Scelto Classico, ~$20.00 Slight herbal aromas on the nose become more pronounced on the dry palate and are joined by cherry and berry notes. High acidity, medium body and long length. This was beautiful with roasted chicken.
Likewise, Pinot Noir is a quintessential quaffer at the table. With its bright acidity and depth of flavors from fruity to floral and herbal to earthy, it provides a robust palette from which to pair various dishes. Moreover, the range of styles currently produced (cooler climate vs. warmer climate) adds to the options from which to choose.
I've once again had the pleasure of tasting through a number of Merry Edwards single vineyard Pinot Noirs, which I've discussed previously (see here, here and here). It was wonderful to revisit some favorites, especially the Bucher Vineyard.
Merry Edwards PINOT NOIR 2019, Sonoma Coast(CA), USA, $54.00 Aromas of cherries, earth and spice repeat on the palate, along with flavors of plum and berry. The dry palate has medium acidity, medium body, soft tannins, and long length.
Merry Edwards BUCHER PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00 This wine offers up deeper, darker notes of spice, black cherries and an undercurrent of earth, with bright acidity, medium+ body, medium tannins and very long length.
Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00 Red and black fruit and slight herbal notes pervade the nose, while the dry, yet very ripe palate presents flavors of black cherry, spice, and dried herbs, with medium acidity, medium to full body, ripe tannins and long length.
Yet, even with the fruitier styles of Pinot Noir available in the market, they might not be the perfect foil for heartier fare. For dishes such as beef stews and pork chops, one might prefer a full-bodied red with good acidity, ripe tannins and lovely fruit flavors such as an Amarone or Cabernet Sauvignon.
Albino Armani Amarone Riserva Cuslanus 2015, Veneto, Italy, $59.99 Beautiful nose, showing some development, with spice, wood, dried cherries and plum. The dry palate offered up medium+ acidity, medium+-to-full body and long length.
To learn more about Valpolicella and Amarone, please see this issue of Drinking Wisely & Well.
I’ve written about the Pasqua wines previously and have always been impressed with them. This most recent tasting was no exception.
Their latest wine comes with the lengthy, yet catchy, name of Hey French: you could have done this but you didn’t and, more specifically this is “Hey French, 1st Edition.” The mouthful of a name is simply a joke, while also paying homage to French winemakers and their regions who inspire the current generation of the Pasqua family.
The wine is billed as a “super-Bianco” and is a blend of 60% Garganega grapes, with the balance comprised of Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon, all of which were grown in the Veneto. In addition to having been macerated on the skins for about 10 hours prior to fermentation, the other interesting aspect of the wine’s production is that it brings together wines from four different vintages – 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2017 – with future editions to contain a different set of vintages.
And, while the grapes come from an area within the Soave DOC denomination, the fact that this wine breaks the rules precludes it from having that designation on its label. But, as they are trying to create a completely different, non-Soave wine, it really doesn’t matter. Instead, the wine is designated Bianco Veneto IGT and sports a flamboyant label designed by French-Cuban artist, CB Hoyo, in keeping with the light-hearted nature of the wine.
TASTING NOTE “Hey French, 1st Edition”, Bianco Veneto IGT, Italy, $40.00 Dry on the palate with medium+ acidity, the wine presented aromas and flavors of citrus, minerality and tidal pool. It displayed depth and richness, along with a fuller body, making it a good white wine option for the colder, winter months ahead or to pair with heartier food. The wine definitely has aging potential and will likely become more complex and interesting with time.
In January 2017, I had the immense pleasure of visiting Verona. “In fair Verona, where we lay our scene,” I found a lovely and welcoming city with bustling shops, beckoning restaurants and majestic bridges. Starting at the imposing Bra Gate, the city’s cobble-stone streets put you in mind of another time, reinforced as you pass the Roman amphitheater. Other hints of this classical connection include the Porta Borsari, an ancient Roman gate still standing in the middle of town.
In many ways, this is the city of love. Nearly synonymous with the tragic story of Romeo and Juliet, visitors are encouraged to tour Juliet’s house and tomb as well as send her letters in aid of their own romantic peccadillos. But, despite the gimmicky feel to these attractions, there is something about Verona that stirs the romance within. Or, perhaps, at least, the romance of life and adventure.
Aside from romantic love, Verona also courts business – specifically the business of wine. Home to VinItaly, Verona hosts the largest wine fair in the world, bringing the world of wine to its door each year. Moreover, Verona serves as a gateway to the Valpolicella wine region, the name of which translates as the “valley of many cellars” and with the profusion of wine production here, it is easy to see why.
An area dedicated to viticulture, local archeological evidence of these vines dates to 40 million years ago, while records of wine production in the Veneto area indicate a history as early as the 5th century BCE. The region is bound by Lake Garda and the Adige River, both of which influence the climate among the nearly 20,000 acres of vineyards.
Today, the region encompasses several different wines within its borders, but traditionally has been associated with wines produced from dried grapes. These type of wines appear to have been developed from the fourth century BCE, likely a way for the Romans to raise the alcohol level of their wines, rendering them more stable and thus more easily transported throughout their empire.
While the Romans dried their grapes over heat, more modern measures focus on drying out the grapes over a period of months through a more natural reduction in water content called appassimento. Today, the wines most well known for this type of production method is Amarone della Valpolicella.
Hailing from this region and adapting this traditional approach, the Pasqua family has focused on producing a less expensive option in both red and white. They use a modified appassimento technique in which the grapes lose “only” 15-30% volume as opposed to the 60% associated with Amarone. The family launched their Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento (Passion-Feeling) in 2014.
Not ones to worry about convention, Alessandro Pasqua proudly declares that “The Rosso breaks about 10 rules!” including its use of the non-indigenous Merlot grape, early vinification and a limited aging regimen. Accordingly, neither of these wines have a particular designation other than IGT Veneto, proclaiming that the wines come from the Veneto region.
Befitting a wine named Passion-Feeling, the label features the love-inspired graffiti that lined the passageway and walls (now since removed) at the house associated as having been the Capulet’s home.
Pasqua’s PassioneSentimento collection includes a white, red and a Prosecco, another wine closely associated with the region.
Among its other wines, the Pasqua Family also produces a an “11 Minutes Rosé ,” which, according to their winemaker is the ideal length of time for contact between the juice and skins to produce this wine. While not part of the PassioneSentimento series, this rose recalls another set of lovers: Catullus and Lesbia, with her depicted on the label.
The graffiti wall at the Capulet home in Verona.
TASTING NOTES
Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento Prosecco Brut, Treviso DOC, $16 SRP Fresh and lively on the nose and palate, with bright pear fruit and floral notes, persistent effervescence and long length.
Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento Bianco 2018, Veneto IGT, $16 SRP Produced from 100% Garganega, the grapes for this wine are harvested early, hand-picked and then dried for around 15 days, thereby concentrating the aromas and flavors. A portion is aged in French oak barrels for a few months. With an intense, concentrated nose, one is greeted with notes of melon, musk and a slight nuttiness. On the palate, it is dry, with high acidity, rich and round with citrus, melon, culminating in long length.
Pasqua “11 Minutes” Rosé TreVenezie IGT, $20 SRP This rose is very much in the Provencal style, with a barely there pale salmon color. Aromas of watermelon and strawberries greet the nose and continue on the palate, with good acidity, medium body and long length. Very refreshing and food friendly.
Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento Rosso 2017, Veneto IGT, $16 SRP A blend of 40% Merlot, 30% Corvina and 30% Croatina, the grapes are left to dry for four to six weeks, losing water content over time. On the nose, this wine offers up notes of plum, cherries, a hint of vanilla and menthol. The palate is dry, but with a slightly sweet attack, with medium acidity, medium tannins, flavors of berries, baking spice and anise, with long length.
This month, we heard reports of a NASA summer intern, Wolf Cukier, who discovered a new planet. Pretty heady stuff! These days, it is challenging to discover anything new under the sun. We live in a world where we’ve been there, done that and, with globalization, there is a homogenization of culture that pervades. Yet, we still treasure unique products and delight in the discovery of new finds.
Twenty years ago, in search of novel and noteworthy products to sell, Lou Di Palo, head of his family’s business, was fortunate to come across a then-unheard of Italian cheese: Piave. Bringing his new-found discovery to America (or at least to the Italian cheese and specialty shop established in 1903 by his great-grandfather, Savino Di Palo), Lou introduced New Yorkers to this wonderful artisan cheese.
Lou Di Palo
Today, Piave DOP Cheese has become a beloved staple of the American market, finding shelf space in major supermarkets as well as in specialty stores. This traditional cheese hails from the Belluno province near the northern tip of the Veneto region, amidst the Dolomite Mountains.
Historically, the area has been known for its dairy cattle since the 1700s, but as the rural economy declined in the wake of industrialization, it was the cooperative dairies that saved the industry during the 1800s. Yet, despite this lengthy history, the Piave cheese as we know it, named for the local Piave River, dates from 1960. And, more recently, the Piave Consorzio was established in 2010 to protect the brand and quality of the cheese, with an average of 300,000 wheels produced annually.
A hard, cooked, cow’s milk cheese, these cylindrical cheeses are made from fresh milk sourced solely from within the mountain province and limited to three types of cow: Italian Brown, Italian Spotted Red and Italian Friesian (aka Holstein). A special culture from the area accounts for the cheese’s characteristic taste, which is further influenced by its aging process, with flavor intensifying over time. As the cheese ages, the curd becomes darker and harder and the rind increases in thickness and color. Due to the fermentation process involved in its production, it has a low lactose content compared to some other cheeses.
With its fresh, medium, aged and extra old age designations, there are several different options available: –Piave Fresco (20-60 days) -Piave Mezzano (61-180 days) -Piave Vecchio (>180 days) -Piave Vecchio Selezione Oro (more than 12 months) -Piave Vecchio Riserva (more than 18 months)
Regardless of your preference, the rich, nutty flavors of the cheese pair well with wine. In this regard, a recent press event hosted at Di Palo’s newest venture: C. Di Palo wine bar, showcased the pairing ability of the cheeses with the wines of Garda Spumante DOC. These wines, named for Lake Garda and produced just 100 miles away from the Piave DOP area, offered up a fresh and effervescent option to cleanse one’s palate in between bites of cheese. Guests at the happy hour were invited to sample the Piave Mezzano and Piave Vecchio Selezione Oro in their unadulterated, delicious form, as well as a range of dishes prepared by Di Palo’s chef, utilizing both the cheeses and the wines in his recipes.
As Italy’s largest lake, Lake Garda splits its regional allegiance down the middle, with Lombardy to the west and the Veneto to the east. Here, drying breezes and the moderating influence of the lake permit the grapes to ripen sufficiently, while maintaining their bright acidity.
Established in 1996, the corresponding Garda DOC wine area encompasses the cities of Brescia, Mantua, Verona and is home to 10 appellations situated at the southern curve of the lake. It overlaps with other appellations, including the more well-known appellations (aka denominations) of Lugana, Custoza, Valpolicella, Bardolino, Soave and Valdadige.
Although the denomination permits the production of whites, rosés and reds, the core production centers on sparkling wines with 7 million bottles produced annually, with an estimated production increase to 20 million bottles in the next few years. These sparkling (aka spumante) wines may be made using either the Traditional (that used in Champagne) or Charmat (used in Prosecco production) Methods, depending upon the individual producer’s personal preferences. The white Garda DOC Spumante may use Garganega, Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano or Chardonnay, while the Rosé Garda DOC Spumante is produced from Corvina, Rondinella, Pinot Nero or Merlot. The wines range from Brut Nature (no sweetness) to Demi-Sec (dessert style) wines.
With the luscious cheese dishes served alongside the fragrant sparkling wines, it was a perfect evening of food and wine pairings. All in all, a delicious discovery and an embarrassment of riches!
C. Di Palo wine bar with its meticulous finishes. The beautifully restored sequoia wood on the bar and walls comes from a reclaimed water tower.
With its long history of wine production dating to the 6th century, Valpolicella is well known. Moreover, it has grown significantly in production over the past 30 years, from 1 million bottles annually to more than 40 million bottles (60 million if you include the full complement of wines). However, as sommelier, Filippo Bartolotta noted, it has been slow to catch up with its reputation, calling it an underdog in the wine world.
At a recent Valpolicella Master Class held in New York City at Café DiPalo, Bartolotta spent time providing a wealth of information to the assembled wine press and trade. In the end, there is a lot to know if one wishes to truly understand this wine, but it is certainly accessible and enjoyable without knowing all of the nuances that make up this family of wines.
Wherefore Art Thou Valpolicella? Situated north of (the fair city of) Verona in Italy’s Veneto region, the Valpolicella production area comprises three zones: Valpolicella, Valpolicella Classico and Valpantena. Here, east of Lake Garda and protected by the Lessini Mountains, the area is favorably impacted by cool winds and cool nights that fix the color and aroma in the grapes.
Geologically, the area was formed 120 million years ago when two plates collided creating the Alps. The soils are calcareous, with the obvious presence of fossils and dinosaur footprints, imparting minerality to the wines. Volcanic soils are also present underneath the balsamic strata. More recently, major studies on how the varied soils impact on different varieties have been undertaken.
With regard to varieties, Valpolicella is produced from a combination of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara and other local grapes. As the starring players, Corvina and/or Corvinone can account for 45-95% of the blend, which is a recent change to the requirements. Corvina is known for providing backbone, structure and perfume, similar to Pinot Noir, while the thicker- and darker-skinned Corvinone lends power, color and structure to the wines. Rondinella, which is the other mandatory variety and permitted from 5 to 30%, adds both minerality and acidity. Up to 15% of other indigenous varieties can round out the blend.
What’s in a Name? But, as Bartolotta emphasized, the story is much more complicated than climate and soil because Valpolicella is a wine about process rather than about a single variety or even several varieties. In particular, there are four separate wines produced under the Valpolicella umbrella: Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG and Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG. These differing wines are the result of the historical development of wine in the region. In addition, Valpolicella Superiore DOC are those Valpolicella wines that have been produced from riper grapes, along with one year of aging, which are fuller-bodied in character.
Perhaps the most recognizable of the four, Amarone is produced from the best batches of fruit, which are left to dry in in specialized rooms for a minimum of 100 days. This extended drying period concentrates the sugars and reduces the weight of the grapes by 40%. It is during this process that Corvina truly shines as it undergoes various enzymatic reactions that alters its DNA and ultimately changes its flavor. Further, the grape will defend itself against noble rot, releasing balsamic vinegar aromas. Regardless of the varieties, all of the shriveled grapes are then fermented to dryness, yielding a concentrated, full-bodied wine, which must be aged for at least two years. Amarone Riserva has spent an additional two years of aging.
But, before there was Amarone, there was Recioto, with 2500 years of history! Stemming from the word rece – local lingo for ears – it was the lobes of the berries which garnered more sun exposure and thus higher quantities of sugar. These sugar-laden sections of the grape bunches were dried for lengthy periods of time. Taking advantage of the cold temperatures, the free run juice would be put outside to stop fermentation, the process would then be repeated and eventually the yeast stopped working. Interestingly, the Romans would add sulfur dioxide to kill off the yeast, a practice still used to this day. With high residual sugar levels, these are a rich and decadent dessert wines, which are produced in minute quantities.
Under the less modern and, consequently, less controlled, winemaking conditions of the past, occasionally the result would be Recioto Scapa. If the wine didn’t stop fermenting, it became dry instead of sweet since all of the sugar had been converted into alcohol. Thus, Amarone was originally called Recioto Secco (dry). Taking its name from the word for bitter – amar – Amarone became the official term for this style of wine as of 1936.
And, sitting somewhere in between Valpolicella and Amarone is Ripasso – translating as one more pass. In this process, Valpolicella wine is added to the leftover Amarone pomace, prompting fermentation to start again, creating wines with higher alcohol, more extraction, fuller body and greater concentrations of phenolics and sweetness.
Please come and drink a cup of wine With this wide range of wines under the Valpolicella name, there is a lot of diversity and opportunity to find the perfect wine for the right occasion. During the Master Class, we tasted the full complement of these wines, which provided a wonderful introduction to each wine/style. Some are more suited to casual cuisine, while the beautifully balanced sweetness of Recioto is great with (or instead of) dessert.
TASTING NOTES
Sartori Di Verona Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore 2015 Sartori di Verona is situated in the Negar area, with 50 hectares of vineyards. This wine sees no oak and is more about simple fruit flavors than complexity. It is dry with high acidity, medium tannins and flavors of cherries and a slight herbal note, culminating in long length. With its lively acidity, this is a great match for calamari or pasta pomodoro.
Novaia, Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore 2016 I Cantoni This tiny producer has 7 hectares and its vineyards are certified organic. There is some volcanic presence in the soils and a small percentage of dried grapes are incorporated into the wine. Compared to the Sartori di Verona Valpolicella (above), this wine is more concentrated, with riper cherry fruit and more noticeable herbal character. It also displayed greater minerality, a fuller body, slightly lower acidity, lovely tannins and longer length.
Villa Mattielli, Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG 2015 Villa Mattielli is owned by Roberta Roncolato and her husband, Giacomo, a former F1 pilot. Roberta takes a modern approach to her winemaking, crafting robust wines, which are aged in French oak. This dry, full-bodied wine offered up lots of ripe black fruit, blueberries, dried fruit, a hint of oak and long length.
Secondo Marco, Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2011 This winery’s name literally translates to according to Marco – in this case the wine is made according to owner Marco Speri. The grapes spent 150 days of drying and then went through 45 days of fermentation and maceration, followed by 48 months aging in big Slavonian oak. It is very floral with aromas of rose and violets, as well as gunflint. On the full-bodied palate, it shows flavors of blueberry, blackberry, citrus, and an undercurrent of menthol. Overall, it is hedonistic, sensual, with a ripe sweetness, balanced with good acidity, culminating in very long length.
Villa San Carlo, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Superiore 2013 Home to a beautiful Venetian villa, Villa San Carlo was purchased by the Pavesi family in 1958. While they planted vineyards early on, they only chose to begin making their own wine in 2009. The oak aged wine offers up smokey, barbecue, earthy, mushroom and black fruit aromas, which persist on the dry, medium+-bodied palate. It has high acidity, good tannins and lush fruit and spice flavors. While not as complex as the Amarone, it provides good value for the money and is lower in alcohol.
Degani, Recioto Della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2016 Located in the Classico valley, the three Degani brothers took over after their uncle’s death, maintaining the vineyards and winery as a family business. This wine offers up a complex and intense nose of dried fruit, prunes, raisins, burnt sugar, smoke and spice. It is medium sweet with high acidity, full body, yet is elegant, balanced, and beautiful with a fruit-driven palate along with hints of cocoa in the finish and long length. Filippo suggested pairing it with brownies with cranberries.
