Category Archives: Tasting Notes

Oltrepo Pavese wines, perfect pairings for pizza, Thanksgiving and just about anything else

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Located in Italy’s Lombardy region, Oltrepo Pavese gets its name from its location on the “other side” of the Po River, the longest in Italy. Home to over 220 indigenous grape varieties, this region is extremely diverse, producing wines that range from still and sparkling, to dry and sweet and everything in between. Additionally, it’s shared borders with the regions of Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna and Liguria have exerted their influence on the resulting wines as well.

As the third largest grower of Pinot Noir (lagging only behind Burgundy and Champagne), Pinot in its many guises is well represented here. Known by the Italian Pinot Nero, the grape is made into sparkling, white and red wines. Pinot Grigio is also widely planted. Interestingly, due to Lombardy’s historic ties to the Savoy kingdom, Riesling is also found in its vineyards.

The diversity is further reflected in its many different sub-denominations. For example, there are four alone just for Metodo Classico sparkling wines. Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese refers to a lightly sparkling (frizzante) red wine produced from a minimum of 85% Croatina, supplemented with up to 15% of Barbera, Ughetta, and/or Uva Rara. Finally, the unusually titled Sangue di Giuda is named for the legend that Judas came back to life to atone for his betrayal of Jesus, ultimately helping to end an epidemic in the vineyards. This sweet red can be lightly or fully sparkling and may be produced from 25-65% Barbera, 25-65% Croatina, with the remainder being Uva Rara, Ughetta and/or Pinot Nero, up to a maximum of 45%.

Thus, it was a fun and festive introduction to these wines at Sottocasa, an authentic thin-crust pizza restaurant in Harlem, which was the site for an informal wine dinner. Our meal featured an assortment of Oltrepo Pavese wines paired with a selection of salads, pizzas and people. Yet, the informal nature of the event did not mean that the wines were any less complex or of low quality. In fact, they were quite delicious and easy to pair with both the savory and sweet dishes on the crowded table.

Moreover, the diversity of vinous flavors, coupled with the hodge podge of people and food, was the perfect proving ground for Thanksgiving, which we will celebrate in the U.S. this week. While Oltrepo Pavese may be situated on the other side of the Po, this time of year in the U.S. we are metaphorically heading “Over the river and into the woods… to grandmother’s house…” to celebrate Thanksgiving with family, friends or both, with our own assortment of culinary traditions on the table.

The sparkling, white and red wines of Oltrepo Pavese should be a welcome addition to your feast throughout the holiday season and beyond with their flexible, food-friendly nature.

TASTING NOTES

The following wines were those we tasted at Sottacasa, but you can search out whatever Oltrepo Pavese are available at your local wine store.

Defilippi Gessi Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC Crocetta 2021, $25
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks

Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks
This was my preference among the Pinot Grigios, but they were all quite good.

Ca di Frara Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks

Ca Montebello Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pinot Nero Vinificato in Bianco 2021, $25
100% Pinot Nero. Vinified as a white wine, this Pinot was extremely fresh and lively, light bodied, really beautiful and super easy to drink. It was a crowd favorite at our meal.

Castello di Luzzano Sommossa Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021, $23
100% Croatina. This dry, sparkling red, was produced using the tank method, with raspberries and blackberries, and long length.

Losito & Guarini Giovannella Fugazza Bonarda Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC C’Era Una Volta NV, $20
100% Croatina, tank method.

Dino Torti Oltrepo Pavese DOC Barbera Route 66, 2019, $25
100% Barbera, aged in Fench barrique for 18 months. I didn’t take good notes, but I did enjoy this fresh, medium-bodied red.

Tenuta Travaglino Pinot Nero Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pernero 2021
100% Pinot Nero, tank fermentation, 6 months aging on the lees. A light-bodied red, with good cherry fruit, a hint of herbaceousness and lively acidity.

Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Sangue di Guida Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021
Croatina, Uva Rara, Barbera, field blend, Martinotti Method. This off dry, red sparkling wine was lovely and fresh and a good pairing with dessert.

Naturally Bordeaux, the Bordelais Go Organic

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With her very apt metaphor, at the recent Naturally Bordeaux event, Mary Gorman-McAdams, MW, explained that big ships are hard to change course, but, with time, they do make the transformation. Similarly, Bordeaux, which is the largest quality wine region in France, has finally made a turn of its own with its more recent embrace of sustainable agriculture. Now that Bordeaux is moving in this new direction, it has been full steam ahead.

Consequently, Bordeaux has significantly increased its acreage of organic vineyards, which, as reported by James Lawther, MW currently stands at 34,333 acres. He further noted that this figure, when added to the biodynamically-certified acreage, accounts for 14% of the region’s vineyards.

Moreover, Mary shared that there has been a collective focus throughout the region on implementing the new Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) certification, a three-tiered system that was launched in France in 2001. This program “encourages farms and vineyards to focus on increasing biodiversity, decreasing the negative environmental impact of their phyto-sanitary strategy (i.e., measures for the control of plant diseases, reducing the use of pesticides and fungicides), managing their fertilizer inputs, and improving water management.” ~Discover Sustainable Wine

The HVE program has been whole-heartedly adopted by the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux which plans to have 100% compliance among Bordeaux producers by 2030. Early adopters, the Cru Bourgeois du Médoc mandated that each chateau must have achieved at least minimum level HVE certification requirements as part of the application process to be considered for Cru Bourgeois status. Lawther advised that it has also been implemented as a requirement by the St.-Emilion appellation. Overall, the Bordelais are taking a holistic picture, including measures that address corporate responsibility.

Other changes in the region include not only an increase in rosé production, but a shift in its approach to producing these wines. To this end, rosé now makes up 4% of Bordeaux’s production and producers are making rosé on purpose these days. Accordingly, today’s wines utilize direct press production instead of the saignée method, which had previously been implemented primarily as a way to beef up the reds. For the most part, the resulting rosé wine made in this manner was an afterthought.

I recently had the pleasure of being introduced (or in one case, reintroduced) to three Bordeaux producers who are actively engaged in organic viticulture at the Naturally Bordeaux event, which was held at Clay Restaurant in New York city’s Harlem neighborhood. Clay was chosen because it is farm-to-table, serving only seasonal, locally-sourced products on its menu. Thus, it was the perfect setting for a dinner featuring sustainable Bordeaux wines.

The wines showed beautifully, providing the opportunity to taste white, rosé and red wines from a variety of vintages. They say the proof is in the pudding and it was clear from this tasting that these are fabulous, well-made wines that you can feel good about drinking given their commitment to the environment. And Clay’s chocolate budino (an Italian pudding) (as well as the entire meal) was fantastic too!

Chateau Fourcas Hosten
Owned by two brothers, Chateau Fourcas-Hosten has a long history on the Left Bank and has been focused on organics and sustainability for the past decade. They achieved HVE3 certification in 2017 and have taken the further step to convert their vines to organic viticulture, starting first with their whites and then expanding to their reds. Full certification of their 50 hectares was received in 2021. Of course, their first goal is to make good wines, and, in this manner, they have recognized the need to adapt the right variety to the right terroir. They have also made investments in the winery as well.

Chateau La Dauphine
Situated on the Right Bank, this historic chateau comprises 160 acres of vineyards with a mix of limestone, clay and molasse soils. The property itself dates to the late 1600s, with a more modern history dating to 2001 when the Halley family purchased the estate and invested 10 million Euros to significantly improve the land and winery. Chateau de la Dauphine earned organic certification in 2015, the same year that the property was sold to the Labrune family. It has since added biodynamic methods as well. Among other changes in the vineyards, they have been increasing their plantings of Cabernet Franc due to their soil types as well as due to climate change.

Chateau Jean Faure
This St.-Emilion Grand Cru Classé producer can trace its origins to a deed dated 1526. It has, of course, changed hands numerous times since then, with its latest acquisition in 2004, when it was purchased by Anne and Olivier Decelle. Their first certified organic vintage was 2017. Since 2020, they have engaged in biodynamic practices and will earn full certification from Biodyvin in 2023. Extensive research has been done on the estate’s predominantly clay terroir, which has always been heavily planted to Cabernet Franc (60%). This will prove to be even more useful as temperatures rise, given that Cabernet Franc has a longer maturity than Merlot.

MENU & TASTING NOTES

First course: Radicchio, spiced walnut, aged balsamic, parmigiano

Chateau Fourcas Hosten Blanc 2020, Listrac-Medoc, Bordeaux
Planted on limestone soils, which helps preserve the beautiful acidity, this wine is a blend of 67% Sauvignon Blanc, 18% Sauvignon Gris, and 15% Semillon. It offers up herbal and citrus aromas on the nose, giving way to riper pineapple on the bright palate, culminating with long length.

Chateau La Dauphine Rosé 2021, Fronsac, Bordeaux
This very pale hued rosé brings together 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, grown on a plot earmarked specifically for the production of rosé. Instead of a maceration, they use a pneumatic press to extract the juice and a touch of color. This wine was first made in 2016, when Monsiur Labrune decided to produce a rosé especially for his wife. With slight herbs and delicate strawberry and melon fruit, the palate is vibrant with a hint of salinity and long length.

Main course: Confit duck leg, carrot, smoked farro, collard greens, sumac
Side dishes: Mushrooms with thyme and shallot | Duck fat potatoes, with parsley and parmigiano

Chateau Fourcas Hosten 2018, Listrac-Medoc, Bordeaux
This blend of 58% Merlot, 38.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc displays plum, other black fruit, oak and vanilla, with firm ripe tannins and good length.

Chateau Jean Faure 2015, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, St.-Emilion, Bordeaux
Produced with 50% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot and 5% Malbec from a very sunny vintage, this wine offered up ripe, spicy, red fruit, along with freshness, culminating in long length.

Chateau La Dauphine 2012, Fronsac, Bordeaux
A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, this is beautifully developed with black and red fruit, ripe tannins, and very long length.

Dessert: Chocolate budino, spiced candied pecan, meringue

Chateau Jean Faure 2010, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, St.-Emilion, Bordeaux
Bring together the same blend as the 2015 vintage, this wine was still quite fresh despite its age. Showing some development, with aromas and flavors of blackberry, herbs, oak, and vanilla, with ripe tannins and long length.


Uruguayan Wines: It’s Time to Get to Know U

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Already know your South American ABC’s? Now it’s time to get to know U!

You are likely very familiar with wines from Argentina, Brazil and Chile, but if you are not aware of the wines from Uruguay, you are not alone. Yet, this oversight is worth correcting, especially given the country’s emphasis on further improving quality and care in crafting their wines. Moreover, its winemakers have learned to tame the tannins in its home-spun grape, Tannat, producing a plethora of styles to meet a range of palate preferences.

Although Uruguay is the second smallest country in South America, nestled between Argentina and Brazil, it has a lot of claims to fame. Most notably, Uruguay was the first country to host the World Cup. In addition to sharing a wine heritage with its neighbors, Uruguay also gives them a run for their money rivaling Argentina in tango and steak and Brazil with the longest carnival in the world at 50 days long. Perhaps most impressive, Uruguay boasts a 99% literacy rate and the country has given every school child a laptop since 2009.

Despite a less obvious presence on the world wine stage, Uruguay has been making wine since 1720s, and saw significant growth in the 1800s. However, it wasn’t until the 1990s that the country began to focus on premium wines, with the planting of the more noble, European grape varieties.

Climatically, Uruguay is home to a maritime climate, such as that of Bordeaux and Galicia. Within this climatic condition, the country comprises 1200 vineyards and 160 wineries. Today’s plantings total 12,000 acres and the land is composed of 99 different varieties of soil. The majority of production (75%) centers in two main regions along the coast: Canelones and Montevideo (shaded in yellow in the map below). Here, the vines are planted on gently sloping hillsides and, tend to be older, due to the lengthier history of viticulture in the region.

Similarly, the industry is seeking out new areas for planting such as Maldonado (shaded in blue), which is also coastal, but with granite soils. Another frontier area is Rivera (shared in gray), in the north, near the border of Brazil, with a distinctly more continental climate thanks to its location further inland.

For what little reputation Uruguay does have, it is perhaps most well-known and regarded for Tannat. This highly tannic variety of French origin was first planted in Uruguay in the 1860s, with 3,950 acres currently planted. With its thick skin, Tannat is less susceptible to disease, which makes it a good option to combat the country’s humid climate.

Yet, beyond the climate-conducive nature of Tannat, the Uruguayans are quick to note that with the preponderance of cows in the country, they make wine to eat with meat. In fact, one producer proclaimed, “We eat the cows or we will be eaten by them.” NB: Cows outnumber people 4 to 1. For this reason, they like to think that, “Tannat chose us,” rather than the other way around. Thus, Tannat’s high tannin content, which reacts favorably with the protein in steak, provides another reason for Tannat to be such an important grape for the country.

Regardless of the reason for Tannat’s initial take-off, it is clear that Uruguayan winemakers have become very adept at handling Tannat and, in particular, have learned to expertly manage those high tannins. The tannins are still generally intense and structural, yet they are more balanced. Plus, today’s Tannat wines offer a variety of styles from which the consumer can choose.

In fact, in a recent tasting at City Winery, members of the press and trade had a unique opportunity to taste through nine different Tannat wines (including a Tannat-based vermouth), which clearly illustrated the diversity being produced right now. Moreover, tasting through an assortment of varietal wines as well as blends revealed how the current crop of winemakers has implemented their experience and expertise to produce
high-end wines and provided a showcase of what Tannat can truly do.

Aside from Tannat, Uruguay is home to other French varieties, including: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, as well as Marselan, Syrah and Pinot Noir. Although whites comprise a much smaller percentage of total plantings, Sauvignon Blanc is the 8th most planted variety, Chardonnay is ninth and Albarino comes in at number 10.

Today’s producers run the gamut from historic family properties to experimental newcomers and everything in between, all of whom are embracing this latest chapter of Uruguay’s vinous history. There are some very interesting and exciting wines being exported to the U.S. and most of them are well priced. If you don’t know Uruguayan wines, now is the time to get to know them.

The Uruguayan masterclass at City Winery was led by award-winning wine journalist, Amanda Barnes, author of the The South America Wine Guide, joined above by a representative from Cerro Chapeu winery.

TASTING NOTES

Cerro Chapeu Castel Pujol Folklore Petillant Naturel 2022, Rivera, Uruguay
Planted in the early 1970s, there are only two wineries in this tiny region, bordering Brazil. Produced in the Ancestral Method, this sparkling wine is a blend of 80% Trebbiano and 20% Malvasia. It is lightly sparkling, with nice citrus fruit, minerality, and long length.

Familia Traversa Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Montevideo, Uruguay
The Traversa family hails from the Veneto in Italy, emigrating to Uruguay in 1904. In 1937, they purchased land in Montevideo and established the winery in 1956. This Sauvignon Blanc is treated to some barrel fermentation, giving it more weight and presence on the plate. It is very fresh, with a slight wood note, medium bodied, with mineral and citrus on the palate.

Marichal Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Canelones, Uruguay
Founded in 1916, the Marichal brothers are members of the 4th generation to run the family business. They shifted their focus to fine wine in 2002 and have been improving quality ever wine. Compared to the Traversa Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is more herbal, with more tropical fruit.

Cerro del Toro Albarino Sobre Lias 2021, Maldonado, Uruguay
This wine project is run by a Japanese businessman, who bought the land in the late 1980s. The winery itself was started in 2015 and comprises 70 acres. The wine spends some time sur lie. Aromas of apple and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate, with high acidity, medium body and long length.

Los Cerros de San Juan Lahusen Riesling 2020, Colonia, Uruguay
Established in 1854 by the Lahusen family from Germany, this is the oldest winery in Uruguay. The vines are planted on rocky soils and the wine was fermented in clay amphora. This Riesling shows lots of freshness with lime and minerality along with long length.

Antigua Bodega Bella Donna Tannat 2020, Canelones, Uruguay
Since 1928, this Canelones-based winery has been family owned and female led, with the 6th generation currently at the helm. This Tannat is produced in a fresh, unoaked style with berries, black fruits, medium body, good acidity and long length.

Vina Progreso overground (revolution) Tannat 2020, Canelones, Uruguay
Well respected winemaker, Gabriel Pisano has been exploring numerous projects since 2009 and established Vina Progreso as his “Experimental Winery” upon his return home to Uruguay. Fresh, with lively acidity, this Tannat is slightly reminiscent of Beaujolais, with light tannins and bright, red fruit aromas and flavors.

Artesana Devocion 2020, Canelones, Uruguay
This boutique winery in Las Brujas was co-founded by Californian and Uruguayan winemakers, which explains why they grow Zinfandel in addition to Cabernet Franc, Tannat and Merlot and use a combination of both French and American oak. This blend of Cabernet Franc, Tannat and Merlot shows juicy red and black fruit. It is weighty, complex, and nicely balanced with ripe, firm tannins, good acidity, full body and long length.

Bracco Bosca Gran Ombu Cabernet Franc 2021, Atlantida, Uruguay
Situated in Atlantida, a coastal area located just 8km from the sea, this winery was started in 2005, A member of the 5th generation of her Italian-heritage family (they are originally from Piedmont), Fabiana came back to the winery six years ago to take the lead. One of their top wines, the Gran Ombu Cabernet Franc spends ten months in New French oak and displays aromas and flavors of dried and fresh herbs, mulberry and cranberry, with good acidity and length.

Alto de la Ballena Tannat Viognier 2018, Maldonado, Uruguay
The husband-and-wife owners of Alto de la Ballena have no family background in the wine industry, but simply wanted to seek out new areas (Maldonado) and pioneer new wines, getting their start in 2001. This wine takes its cue from the Northern Rhone, where the white variety, Viognier, is added to the red grape, Syrah. In this case, Tannat stands in for Syrah. With dark red fruit, dried herbs and vanilla on the nose and palate, the fruit is ripe yet restrained, culminating in long length.

Montes Toscanini Gran Tannat Premium 2019, Canelones, Uruguay
In 1894, the family arrived from Geneva, eventually establishing the winery in 1979 in Canelones. Today, the 4th generation of the family is actively involved in the business. They only produce this specific wine in the best years, and from the best parcels. Offering up intense, firm, yet ripe tannins, this wine is well structured with long length, showing black fruit, oak, vanilla.

Familia Deicas Preludio Tinto 2016, Canelones, Uruguay
This historic winery was purchased in 1979 and most recently established in 2000. This is a barrel select wine, which is a blend of Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Marselan. The selection is made by a large committee of family members after the wine has been aged for 24 months in oak barrels. It is redolent of red and black fruits and oak, with ripe tannins, good acidity, full body and long length.

Bouza Monte vide eu 2020, Montevideo, Uruguay
Founded in 1999, the owners have been pioneers in new regions and with Albarino and are classic car enthusiasts. Bringing together 55% Tannat, 27% Merlot, and 18% Tempranillo, this wine takes its name from a Portuguese phrase, and has a sweet attack, with fresh, ripe fruit, violets, and oak. The full-bodied wine has firm tannins and long length.

Bodega Garzon Balasto 2018, Maldonado, Uruguay
Bodega Garzon was established in 2009 in Maldonado by Argentine oil billionaire Alejandro Bulgheroni, in conjunction with an Italian wine consultant, Alberto Antonini. With a tribute to the terroir of decomposed granite soil and a strong emphasis on sustainability, the owners are more excited about their Silver LEED certification than any wine awards they may have won, which says a lot considering that the winery won Wine Enthusiast’s Wine Star Award for Best New World Winery in 2018. A blend of 45% Tannat, 25% Cabernet Franc, 18% Petit Verdot, and 12% Marselan, this wine is aged in untoasted botti, and offers up black fruit, berries and coffee, with full body and firm tannins. It is quite powerful, yet balanced and complex.

Basta Spirit Vermut Flores Rose NV, Uruguay
An artisanal vermouth collaboration produced from Canelones-sourced grapes, this project started in 2019. With a tradition from Italy and Spain, interest in vermouth has been growing among consumers in Uruguay. There are four different flowers included in the 27-ingredient, botanical recipe. It starts with a base of Tannat rose. It is very fresh and lively.

Giving Thanks for the Magic of Merry Edwards Wines

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Happy November! Thanksgiving is around the corner, which means that you are likely busy planning holiday menus and wondering what wines should grace your table.

For the past several years, I have had the great pleasure of having at least one bottle of Merry Edwards wines paired with my Thanksgiving meal (see especially this post). In fact, I am very grateful to have been able to sample these wines since 2020. They have been a bright spot in what has been a challenging period for us all.

This year (thankfully) is no exception. Yet, rather than wait to taste my final bottle to share my tasting notes with you, I wanted to post this now to encourage you to take advantage of this special offering to ensure that you, too, can enjoy a bottle (or more) of Merry Edwards as part of your festivities.

SPECIAL THANKSGIVING SET

The folks at Merry Edwards have curated a special Thanksgiving set of wines featuring one bottle each of:
–  2020 Olivet Lane Chardonnay*
–  2020 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir*
–  2020 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir*

The wines also include a wooden etched logo box, making it a very gift-worthy option. 

Note: There are a limited number of Thanksgiving Sets available, so don’t delay if you feel the pull. Plus, the shipping deadline for guaranteed Thanksgiving delivery is: Friday, November 11th.  
–>To purchase, visit their website or call the winery at: 888-388-9050.

Of course, any of the Merry Edward wines would be a great addition to your table now and throughout the year and are perfect gifting wines as well.

*Tasting notes for the Pinot Noirs are included below as is my tasting note for a previous vintage of the Olivet Lane Chardonnay.

TASTING NOTES

Merry Edwards 2019 Olivet Lane Chardonnay, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00
Aromas of butter and smoke greet the nose and persist on the elegant palate, with apple and citrus flavors, good acidity, medium+ body and very long length.
NB: The offer above includes the 2020 vintage; this note is for the 2019 vintage.

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00
This continues to be a favorite Sauvignon Blanc of mine. The wine is fresh, with a pronounced nose of ripe citrus and tropical fruit aromas. The palate is dry, with ripe citrus fruit on the attack, bright acidity, medium+ body, and long length. Overall, it is mouth filling and delicious.

Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2020, Sonoma County (CA), USA, $48.00
From the larger Sonoma Coast AVA, this wine is sourced from grapes that are grown in the cool, coastal climate. The nose and palate are redolent of fresh and dried herbs, with dark cherry aromas and flavors. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, soft, ripe tannins, culminating in long length.

Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2020, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $58.00
From Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, which is situated further inland, these vineyards are warmer than the coast, but still influenced by the fog, maintaining good acidity levels and freshness in the grapes. Concentrated, with ripe, dark cherry fruit, and notes of earth, pomegranate, and a hint of coffee. The wine is layered and complex, with bright acidity and nice length on the palate.

Merry Edwards Meredith Estate Pinot Noir 2020, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00
Selfishly, I am going to save this to enjoy for Thanksgiving 2022 and will include my tasting note after the holiday.

However, here is my note from the 2018 vintage of this same wine:

Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $72.00
With 20 planted acres, the Meredith Estate vineyard is one of the larger single-vineyard productions from Merry Edwards. This abandoned apple orchard in the Sebastopol Hills was purchased by Merry in 1996 and planted to Pinot in 1998. They practice sustainable agriculture, with the use of cover crops and other earth-friendly farming approaches.
Red and black cherries feature prominently on the nose, with cherry and berry fruit, along with notes of wet leaves and an herbal undercurrent. The dry palate provides a decidedly savory note, with medium+ body, high acidity and very long length.

The Diversity and Delight of Languedoc Wines

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Nestled in the south of France between the French Riviera and the region of Roussillon, the wines of Languedoc are impressive as well as both food and wallet friendly. If these are not on your radar, they should be given their diversity and sheer delight!

I recently had the pleasure of tasting through a selection of Languedoc wines in a guided tasting with Master Sommelier and owner of Corkbuzz, Laura Maniac. Each wine was beautifully (and deliciously) paired with a small bite, underscoring the ease with which these wines pair with a wide range of cuisine. After our time with Laura, we were led on a brief culinary tour of the Chelsea Market, becoming familiar with other vendors in the venue and the opportunity to sample a few more glasses of Languedoc.



Languedoc’s sunny, Mediterranean climate is tempered with cooling breezes and warm winds, which results in ripe fruit that retains its bright acidity. Thanks to the area’s dry nature, the region has one of the largest organic productions in France with over 30% of producers practicing organic viticulture; another 27% are in progress of converting from conventional practices. In fact, Languedoc launched the world’s first all organic expo — Millesime Bio — in 1993. Additionally, many producers are embracing biodynamics as well. And, with a strong research emphasis on viticulture, centered at L’INRA in Montpellier, the region is well equipped to handle climate change. Moreover, today, the area is home to a quiet revolution as winemakers from elsewhere in France are feeling the pull to make high quality wine within its borders.

Yet, Languedoc is not part of some passing fad. The region boasts 2500 years of wine making history and also lays claim to the discovery of fortification (thanks to Arnaud de Villeneuve in 1285) and sparkling wine production (in 1544 with the creation of Blanquette de Limoux).

The 90,000+ acres of vineyards are planted to 26 different grape varieties, with the majority (59%) of wine production given over to red wine. The balance is equally split among rosé and white wines. Within the vast acreage, there are 20 different appellations within Languedoc, but producers can also choose to bottle their wine under the broader Languedoc AOP. Regardless of the appellation, the wines coming from the region include everyday, inexpensive options, but also collectibles that are showing that this is a region capable of producing at the very top levels.

During the Languedoc event, the wines were custom paired by Chef Yovet Calvario of Corkbuzz; David Seigal, Culinary Director of Lobster Place; and Pablo Lopez, Chef Charcutier of Dickson’s Farmstand Meats.

We started off the tasting with a lusciously aged white wine served with lemon butter shrimp, matching the decadent and rich nature of both the wine and the food. The next bite was arancini with mushrooms, which paired well with a fresh, fruity red. Ricotta crostini (using Laura’s grandmother’s recipe for homemade ricotta) showed spectacularly with a more robust red. The next set of reds went well with an eggplant caponata dish, meatballs in a tomato sauce and chimichurri steak.

At Lobster Place, which has been in business for 45 years, we enjoyed raw oysters and
grilled shrimp, coupled with a fresh white and a fruit-forward rosé, respectively. Then, at Dickson’s, we had the pleasure of seeing how the range of charcuterie brought out the flavors of the wine — a pale rosé and an intense red.

TASTING NOTES

CORKBUZZ
Domaine Les Aurelles, Aurel Blanc 2013, Languedoc, France, $80.00
There are two ex-Bordeaux winemakers behind this wine, which is produced from 100% Roussanne and provides a perfect example of an age-worthy white from this region. Aromas of hazelnut, beeswax and pineapple greet the nose and persist on the dry palate. It is ripe and rich, with good acidity and notes of honey in the long finish.

Cave de Roquebrun, Chemin des Olivettes 2020, Languedoc, France, $13.00
Established in 1967, the Cave de Roquebrun co-op represents 70 winegrowers. This wine brings together 45% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre and 10% Cinsault and displays lots of fresh, red fruit with garrigue/dried herbs, with lavender and pepper especially in finish.

Domaine d’Aupilhac, Lou Maset 2019, Languedoc, France, $23.00
Named for an old, stone hut found in the vineyards of this biodynamic producer, the Lou Maset is intense and angular with fresh, lifted black fruit. A blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, 10% Carignan, 5% Syrah, and 5% Alicante Bouchet, it is quite tannic, with lingering notes of dried orange peel, pepper and herbs.

Jeff Carrel, Les Darons 2019, Languedoc, $15.00
Named “Les Darons” which is an affectionate term used in Parisian suburbs for one’s parents, this is a blend of 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 5% Carignan. It is lush with red and black fruit, woody notes, good, ripe tannins, lots of spice and full body, culminating in long length.

Devois de Perret, Cellier du Pic 2020, Languedoc, France, $14.00
Primarily Syrah, with 25% Grenache, this wine offers up complex aromas of smoke, leather, and dark red cherry. The medium+-bodied palate is fresh with good fruit character and long length.

Château La Negly, Clos des Truffiers 2018, Languedoc, France, $200.00
Originally called Ancely, Château La Negly dates to 1781. Consequently, this wine is produced from some of oldest vines in the region. Bringing together 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache, this is a stunning wine with layers of aromas and flavors. It is very oak dominant, with spice, dill, earth, leather, blackberry, cherries, floral and minerality as well as being rich in texture and tannin, culminating in long length.

LOBSTER PLACE
Château de Lascaux, Garrigue 2021, Languedoc, France, $20.00
This white blend (35% Vermentino, 20% Roussanne, 15% White Grenache, 15% Clairette, 10% Marsanne, and 5% Viognier) offers up fresh fruit and lively acidity with aromas and flavors of unsweetened limeade and tropical fruit with a lovely texture. It paired extremely well with Avelon oysters from Maine.

Gerard Bertrand, Source of Joy 2020, Languedoc, France, $20.00
This organic rosé had a portion of its wine matured in oak barrels, giving it depth and structure on the palate. It shows lots of fresh floral and strawberry notes, with long length.

DICKSON’s FARMSTAND MEATS
Domaine du Pas de l’Escalette, Ze Rozé 2020, Languedoc, France, $13.00
This is a much paler, lighter-bodied rosé, which is the result of a direct press and gentle extraction. With barely any color, it resembles a white more than a rosé, especially with its high acidity, but its berry aromas and flavors belie its true identity as a rosé. 

Domaine de Nizas, Le Clos 2018, Languedoc Pézenas, France, $21.00
Half of this Syrah blend (60% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre and 5% Carignan) spent time in three-year-old French oak barrels. Displaying lots of character and finesse, it is fresh yet tannic, with red fruit and spice, with long length.




Getting to Know Gavi

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Looking for a new (to you) white wine? While certainly not new – grapes have been grown in the region since 972 CE and specific mention of it dates to 1782 – Gavi is perhaps less well known, but definitely worth getting to know. In fact, at a recent seminar, “The Hidden Depths of Gavi:  Ageing Potential of Piemonte’s Great White “, moderator Walter Speller suggested that Gavi can “play at the level of Chablis.”

Produced from 100% Cortese grapes, the wine hails from southeast Piedmont, Italy (the same region known for Barolo and Barbaresco as well as Moscato d’Asti). This high-quality wine benefits from the continental climate where it can fully ripen in the hot, sunny summers, yet maintain bright acidity thanks to the coastal marin wind.

This great grape can be produced in several different styles, all while keeping within the rules and regulations of the Gavi Consorzio: Still (which represents 99% of all production); Semi-Sparkling (Metodo Classico, with six months aging on the lees); Fully Sparkling; and Riserva. In addition to adhering to lower yields, these latter wines must be aged for one year, with at least six months of that spent in the bottle.

Established as an official denomination in 1974, Gavi was promoted to DOCG in 1998. Yet, more historically, Gavi played an important role in trade. First firmly rooted in the Roman empire, the area was home to Libarna, which was founded in 2nd century BCE as an agricultural and viticultural city. Later, it became crucial to the Republic of Genoa, which served as a defense post and was instrumental in the salt route. The Genovese needed a wine that could be shipped from place to place and being due north of Genoa in the Alessandria province, Gavi became that wine.

More critical than its geographical proximity, Gavi was an especially good choice thanks to its stability. As a white wine with far less polyphenols – especially catechins – than others, it could be shipped to other areas without fear of damage to the wine.

Today, there are 1600 hectares cultivated within the Gavi borders, accounting for 60% of all Cortese planted within Italy. The vines are dispersed among 11 municipalities in the foothills of the Po Valley, some of which are designated as crus. There has also been an increasing focus on single vineyards as the producers seek to better understand their terroir. In this regard, they recently completed a comprehensive map of the territory.

Additionally, sustainable practices have been embraced by the Consorzio with an aim toward promoting organic viticulture and preventing erosion. This commitment has been further reinforced by its 2018 initiative, which monitors bee pollen to measure whether sustainable viticulture is actually being practiced in the region.

Within the area, Cortese thrives on the combination of red clays, white soils, with marl and sandstone, which display as minerality in the wines. In general, these are fresh, elegant white wines, known less for fruit and more for their floral, nut (almond) and mineral characteristics. Most of the wines are fermented in stainless steel, but a few producers do use wood and there has been an emphasis on indigenous yeasts since 2015.

Although the majority of white wines are meant to be enjoyed in their youth, Cortese is a grape that can sustain the test of time. In particular, thanks to the same chemical components that make them stable for shipment, these are wines that can develop beautifully with eight to ten years of age, yet still retain vibrant acidity. As evidence, the wines tasted at the above referenced seminar hailed from vintages 2013-2019 and all showed quite well.

VINTAGE CHART

2021 – 5.0 stars

2020 – 4.5 stars

2019 – 4.5 stars

2018 – 4.5 stars

2017 – 4.0 stars

2016 – 5.0 stars

2015 – 5.0 stars

TASTING NOTES

La Raia Vigna della Madonnina 2019 Gavi DOCG Riserva
Acquired by Giorgio Rossi Cairo and his family in 2003, La Raia is an organic and biodynamic property, with Demeter certification. Aged in stainless steel, with one year lees aging, this fresh wine displays apple, slight citrus and mineral notes, with high acidity, medium to full body and long length.

Tenuta La Giustiana Montessora 2018 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi
Founded in 1250, Tenuta La Giustiana is one of the oldest and historic estates. Montessora is a single vineyard. This is beautiful wine with wet stone, lanolin, orange peel aromas. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, along with depth and richness and a hint of chalk in the finish, with long length.

Morgassi Superiore Volo 2018 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi
Established in 1993, this small estate is family run, currently under the direction of sisters Marina and Cecilia Piacitelli. The wine is very tart, with lemon and mineral aromas and flavors, along with medium+ body, high acidity and good length.

La Mesma Vigna della Rovere Verde 2016 Gavi DOCG Riserva
Also a family affair, La Mesma is run by the Rosina sisters: Paola, Francesca and Anna. Notes of pear and apple greet the nose. The palate is dry, with full body, slight tidal pool notes and minerality, culminating in long length.

Tenuta San Pietro in Tassarolo Il Mnadorlo 2015 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Tassarolo
Named for the Benedictine convent that was located on the property in the 11th century, Tenuta San Pietro, the estate was purchased in 2002 by Corrado Alota, a Milanese entrepreneur. Hailing from a warmer vintage and with seven years of age on it, this wine displayed beautiful development with almond and caramel aromas. On the palate, it is rich and concentrated, with medium acidity, full body, and notes of peaches, beeswax, petrol and hazelnuts.

Villa Sparina Monterotondo 2014 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi
Winner of Wine Enthusiast’s European Winery of the Year for 2021, Villa Sparina has been producing Gavi since 1970. With grapes sourced from their cru, Monterotondo, this wine is intense, with a rich nose redolent of pear and showing some development. It is full bodied, with slight hints of woodiness, peaches and long length.

Bergaglio Nicola Minaia 2014 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi
This estate has been making wine since 1945 and is run by the son and grandson of founder: Jean-Luigi and Diego Bergalo. Sourced from grapes grown on the hilly Minaia site, situated directly behind the family cellar, the wine offers up honey, floral and lemon aromas and flavors with medium acidity, medium body and long length.

Broglia Bruno Broglia 2013 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi
The Bruno Broglia acquired his historic estate – La Meirana – in 1972, which is now managed by his sons, Gian Piero and Paolo. With a commitment to modern technology, it was the first estate to collaborate on clonal research related to the Cortese grape and it continues to conduct other studies in concert with local universities.  Despite being nearly a decade old, this wine is surprisingly fresh. It provides notes of citrus and mineral, with an undercurrent of anise, with good acidity, medium body and long length.


Alto Adige and Oregon Explore What’s In the Glass

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What’s in your glass? If you answered Merlot or Chardonnay, you’re only half right. The truth is that wine is a product of grapes and place (and to a slightly lesser extent, people), so what’s in your glass also includes where the grapes were grown and how those who made the wine chose to interpret them.

When I taught consumer wine classes on a regular basis, I used to have my “Great Grape” series, which I affectionately referred to as “Same Grape, Different Neighborhood”. In each class, I guided the group through a selection of wines all produced from the same grape variety (i.e. Chardonnays or Merlots), but which had been grown in different places around the world. The intention was to familiarize them with the general characteristics of a given grape, while providing them with concrete evidence of how climate, soil and winemaking techniques ultimately impacted the finished wine.

So I was extremely excited when I received the unusual invitation to similarly compare and contrast wines from Italy’s Alto Adige with those from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. I had written about Alto Adige previously, having attended various seminars and also having visited the region, but this was a unique look for sure. The seminar, held at Manhatta Restaurant, was moderated by Laura Williamson, MS and mostly presented by Martin Foradori Hofstatter from Tenuta J. Hofstatter. Davide Ungaro from Cantina Bolzano, Remy Drabkin of Remy Wines and David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyards were also present to share about Willamette and its wines. Overall, the seminar itself was quite technical and, while interesting to the trade, the details of which are likely too mundane to share with the average wine consumer. Yet, it was a wonderful opportunity to use a unique lens to look at two fascinating and fabulous wine regions.

Ultimately, these two winegrowing regions have a lot in common, but, not surprisingly, produce different styles due to the differences underscored during the seminar such as climatic conditions (see chart below). In that vein, fans of one should definitely venture out and try the other. Moreover, they are both equally at home at the table and offer up diversity and a range of styles from which to choose. Love Pinot Grigio? Enjoy Alto Adige’s options tonight and Oregon’s tomorrow. No need to get stuck in a vinous rut.

At the end of the day, it’s all about high quality wines made by real people who are focused on understanding their land to craft the very best wines from it.

BY the NUMBERS…
Comparing & Contrasting Top Grapes by Region

Alto AdigeWillamette Valley
#Pinot Grigio^Pinot Noir
Gewurztraminer#Pinot Grigio
*Chardonnay*Chardonnay
Pinot BiancoRiesling
SciavaEtc.
^Pinot Noir
Etc.

TASTING NOTES
Seminar Wines

Cantina Tramin Unterebner Pinot Grigio 2020, Alto Adige DOC
Rich nose, minerality, tangerine, dry, yet rich, ripe fruit, medium+ body, citrus, long length, (rich and concentrated).

Remy Wines Fischerman’s Pinot Gris 2021, Yamhill-Carlton, OR
From grapes sourced from the Walker Vineyard, on ungrafted vines, with notes of smoke, higher acidity, fresh, medium body, long length (lovely and fresh).

Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco 2019 Vorberg, Alto Adige
Medium to full bodied, with medium acidity, red apple, slight citrus, and a hint of wood in the undercurrent. Long length.

Adelsheim Vineyards, Staking Claim Chardonnay 2019, Chehalem Mountains, OR
Austere and elegant, with medium body, medium+ acidity, minerality, citrus and slight green apple, barely perceptible oak, and a slight reductive note.

Castel Juval Unterortl Pinot Nero Riserva 2018, Alto Adige Val Venosta
From the most northly Pinot Noir vineyards of Alto Adige, this wine has aromas of cherries and fresh and dried herbs. Dry and fresh, with medium body, very herbal in undercurrent, earthy in the finish, with long length.

Tenuta J. Hofstatter Pinot Nero 2017, Alto Adige Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano
Sourced from older parcels planted in 1962 and 1990, notes of earth, darker cherries and a hint of wood greet the nose. Fresh, fruit driven, with a slight herbal hint in the finish. This is a lighter style wine with lighter body but still good concentration of fruit.

Adelsheim Vineyards, Breaking Ground Pinot Noir 2019, Chehalem Mountains, OR
This wine is blend of grapes grown on three different soil types in an effort to figure out how to make great wine. Of the two Adelsheim Pinots, this one is less ripe, with cherries and orange peel aromas. Dry, with medium acidity, medium body, cherry, herbs, and long length.

Adelsheim Vineyards, Quarter Mile Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018, Chehalem Mountains, OR
This wine is more ripe, with a sweeter, jammier red fruit nose. The palate offers up riper fruit of rich cherries and spice with fuller body, and long length.

The Lagrein variety is related to Pinot Noir, but not sure of total origin, grape with lots of acid and aggressive tannins.

Cantina Bolzano Lagrein Riserva 2018 Taber Alto Adige
This is a single vineyard wine, which underwent two years of aging, one of them in oak. It has an intense nose of black fruit and floral, with firm, medium++ tannins, medium+ body, and flavors of intense, concentrated candied violets and blueberry, culminating in long length.

Peter Zemmer Lagrein Riserva Furggl 2018, Alto Adige
As a Riserva wine, this wine also spent two years aging, with six months in large oak vessels and 12 months in barriques. This wine has aromas of smoke and black fruit, and is more tannic with fuller body than the Cantina Bolzano Lagrein.

Remy Wines, Lagrein 2019, Dundee Hills, OR
In addition to making wine from traditional Oregon varieties, Remy also focuses on those from Northern Italy, including Lagrein. Hers is floral, with tart cherry fruit, and oak notes, and full bodied with firm tannins.

Additional Wines Served with Lunch (more limited tasting notes)

With the First Course: Snap pea panzanella with grapefruit and pink peppercorn

  • Tenuta J. Hofstatter Barthenau Vigna S. Michele Pinot Bianco 2020 – tree and stone fruit
  • Nals Magreid Punggl Pinot Grigio 2019 – good acidity, fresh, citrus
  • St. Paul’s Winery Schliff Sauvignon Blanc 2020 – with a very herbal nose and long length
  • Elena Walch Vigna Kastelaz Gewurztraminer 2018 – rich, spice, yellow plum, long length

With the Second Course: Patrami Smoked Salmon, Chicories, Lemon Crème Fraiche

  • Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner 2021 – juicy fruit, very mineral
  • Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Kerner 2021 – stone fruit, apricot
  • Castelfeder Burgum Novum Chardonnay Riserva 2018 – elegant, well-integrated oak
  • Adelsheim Winery Ribbon Springs Vineyard Chardonnay 2018, Ribbon Ridge, OR – butter, slight, slight development, apple

With the Third Course: Roasted Chicken breast with Yukon gold potatoes, lemon thyme, grilled scallion and Calabrian chile.

  • Cantina Bolzano Santa Maddelea Schiava Moar Classico 2020 – fresh, light bodied, cranberry
  • Cantina Girlan Trattmann Pinot Nero Riserva 2017 – smoky, herbal, light body, cherry
  • Ansitz Waldgries Lagrein 2019 – easier drinking, less tannic
  • Remy Wines Jubilee Dolcetto 2019, Eola-Amity Hills, OR – black cherries, herbaceous notes and freshness

COMPARE & CONTRAST by the NUMBERS…

  Alto Adige Willamette Valley
Farmers 5,000 931
Vineyard
Area 		5,600 ha 11,080 ha
Wineries 274 736
Average area per farmer 1 ha 12 ha
% Total Prodn. <1% of Italy 3% of U.S.
Organic Viti. 8% 48%
Altitude 200-1000 m 60-335 m
Sunshine/yr 300 days/year 150 days
White Wine
Production		 64% 35%
Red Wine
Production		 36% 65%
# of Grape
Varieties 		20 37
Bottles/yr 40 million 40 million
Longitude 46′-30″ Bolzano 45′-12″ McMinville
Climate   Warm air currents + cold
winds from the mountains 		Cooler due to the influence of the
Pacific Ocean and Columbia Gorge
Geography   Small valley with lots of
microclimates 		Not a narrow valley; 50 mi wide by 125 mi long
Soils   Mostly clay, with some volcanic soils Marine, sedimentary, volcanic basalt, and loess

Cool down with Chilean Sauvignon Blanc

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What’s the story, morning glory? As written previously, Chile is hot! And, as I discovered recently, it’s Sauvignon Blancs are really cool. These fresh, crisp white wines are a great option for summer especially with the heat waves we’ve experienced recently on both sides of the Atlantic.

But, more importantly, the story is that Chile is defining and refining what it wants to produce when it comes to Chilean Sauvignon Blanc.

Moreover, this grape is going gangbusters. First brought to Chile by Claudio Gray in 1841, it had a slow start. In fact, the variety represented only a small portion of vineyard plantings by the mid-2000s. Yet, it has seen a significant rise in plantings since that time, growing from 18,300 acres (Oxford Companion to Wine, 4th edition, Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, Oxford University Press, 2015) to 37,614 as of 2019 (Wines of Chile seminar, 7/26/2022). Today, Sauvignon Blanc represents Chile’s second most widely planted variety and accounts for 40% of all white grapes grown in the country with vines found mainly across the Coastal and Central Valley regions.  This sustained growth period has been coincident with Chile’s increased expertise and knowledge.

In particular, it was Pablo Morandé of Viña Morandé who, influenced by cool climate whites from California’s Sonoma County, sought to recreate Chile’s own version, noticing how the cool breeze impacted the wines. He selected Sauvignon Blanc as his grape of choice and the Chilean Coastal Range as his terroir.

As more growers have gotten on board with this vision, the country has developed its own unique style of Sauvignon Blanc that is heavily influenced by the cool climate that Chile provides. Specifically, the vast 600-mile wide, Humboldt current that runs from Antarctica to the North Pole is responsible for cool temperatures (52-57°F), fog and morning mist that maintain high acidity, keep the pyrazines (which translate into herbaceous characteristics) and purity of fruit flavors.

Within Chile, the wineries are further delineating their regions and sub regions. As was heard by Sofia Araya of Veramonte (see story), there is a philosophical shift from grape to geography as the climate conditions now take center stage when considering what grapes to grow where and what style of wine is desired.

In this vein, there are three distinct Sauvignon Blanc growing regions:
>>Coastal Sauvignon Blanc: Humboldt and Coastal Range
These tend to be very herbaceous with jalapeno, grass and asparagus notes and high acid citrus including lime and lemon, along with full bodies with good acidity.
>>Inland Sauvignon Blanc: Central Valley and the Andes Slopes
A slightly warmer climate, this area produces Sauvignon Blancs with more grapefruit and topical fruit notes.
>>Southern Sauvignon Blanc: The Deep South – Patagonia and Bio Bio
These wines typically have really high acidity due to the soil and climate.

The finished wines are further impacted by the diversity of soils within the Coastal Range. For example, Casablanca has iron and marcillo soils, while Limari is dominant in limestone and granite.

As a result, there is a recognizable thread that runs through all of these wines, while each has its own unique flavor profile and attributes, due to microclimates as well as different winemaking approaches.

And, as Chilean winemakers seek to produce for the higher end of the market, these are wines with complexity, concentration and balance.  Admittedly, they share the same DNA as New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs and Sancerre, but they offer their own, distinct style, character and expression.

At a recent virtual seminar, members of the wine press were given the opportunity to taste through a selection of eight Coastal Range Sauvignon Blancs, learning more about these wines from Joaquín Hidalgo of Vinous.com, an authority on South American wines as well as about Chile’s market in general from Julio Alonso, Executive Director USA for Wines of Chile.

TASTING NOTES

  • Viña Morandé Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $20
    Pablo Morandé is a pioneer in the area. This is a single vineyard in the warmest part of Casablanca, away from ocean. The wine displays high acidity, with lime, lemon and a slightly woody note.
  • Matetic Vineyards EQ Coastal Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $20
    This family owned winery practices organic viticulture and is situated in the Rosario Valley of Casablanca. There is black mica in the soils. The wine is predominantly citrus and white nectarine, with some salinity.
  • Casas del Bosque La Cantera Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $18
    Hailing from the coldest spot in Casablanca, closest to the ocean, this wine is very fresh, concentrated and expressive, undergoing lees contact, with notes of grapefruit and herbs.
  • Montes Wines Limited Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $15
    With grapes sourced from Leyda, close to the Pacific Ocean, this fresh wine shows very lemony in character with good acidity and minerality.
  • Viña Koyle Costa La Flor Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $18
    An organic and biodynamic producer, this is situated in San Antonio, Leyda. The wine has more weight and soil presence on the palate, with riper apricot and tropical fruit flavors.
  • Viña Garcés Silva Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $25
    Also from Leyda, this wine has well integrated acidity and fresh flavors of citrus, herbs, white flowers with some lees contact.
  • Ventisquero Wine Estates Grey Sauvignon Blanc 2019 / SRP $25
    These grapes are grown in granitic and gravel soils along the Huasco River in the Atacama Desert, one of the driest places on earth. The wine is aged over its lees for ten months in large foudres to soften the wine, with offers up lots of lime, minerality and salinity.
  • Viña Tabalí Talinay Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $24
    Next to the ocean near the Limari River, these grapes are also grown in desert conditions. This wine is citrus dominant with a distinct herbal undercurrent.

From Burgenland with Love: Food Friendly Reds and Whites

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Austrian wines are less well-known than those from say Italy or Spain, but they are definitely deserving of one’s attention. Austria had a wine scandal back in the 1980s, but with swift action, the implementation of stringent production laws and a re-dedication to quality, the country came back stronger than ever. Since then, further steps toward quality wine production, such as the creation of the DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) system in 2001, which designates regions, grape varieties and general typicity.

Home to three quality wine regions: Niederosterreich, Burgenland and Steiermark, there is a rich diversity in climate, soil and typicity among Austrian wines. Yet, they are all firmly focused on producing the highest quality.

Moreover, given the need to walk the straight and narrow in the wake of the scandal, for decades winemakers stuck to a completely clean style of winemaking, ensuring the consumer that their wines were fresh and unadulterated. Yet, today, with renewed consumer support and trust, winemakers have felt the leeway to experiment with more modern techniques and new styles, resulting in more diversity and modernity.

A recent tasting at Café Katja in New York’s Lower East Side was the perfect setting in which to receive a more formal introduction to the diversity of Austrian wine and, in particular, to Burgenland’s reds and whites. More specifically, the options offered up a sampling of different wine styles, both traditional and modern. With this aim, four different flights, each paired with a different dish prepared by Chef Erwin Schrottner, provided an opportunity to taste a selection of whites, lighter reds, heavier reds and a dessert wine alongside traditional Austrian cuisine.

Within Burgenland, the majority (52%) of vineyards are found nestled around the shallow Lake Neusiedler, which has an important climatic influence on the vines, moderating what would otherwise be a continental climate. This area is known primarily for its reds, which account for 56% of plantings, with Blaufrankisch and Zweigelt taking the top two spots. The cooler southern section of Burgenland is known more for its fresh, white wines. And, although international varieties are found in the region, the emphasis is on indigenous varieties, which might be challenging to pronounce, but are a pleasure to drink.

FLIGHT 1
The dill cured salmon with shaved cucumber and sour cream was presented with four whites:
*Zantho Gruner Veltliner 2020
*Thomas Straka Welschriesling Rechnitz 2020
*Kolfok Vulkan Alte Reben Gruner Veltliner 2019
*Heinrich Naked White 2018 (a blend of Chardonnay, Pnot Blanc, Muscat and Pinot Grigio)

The Naked White was my favorite pairing with the salmon for its smokiness, which echoed the smokiness in the cured fish, along with its freshness that cut through the oil of the fish.

In keeping with the shift toward less clean wine styles, two of the whites had been oak aged and one had a reductive quality to it.

FLIGHT 2
Roasted Moulard Duck with red cabbage and dumpling was paired with four “red delights”:
*Kolfok Querschnitt Rotburger & Co 2019
*Nitenhaus Blaufrankisch 2017
*Hareter Pinot Noir ohne 2018
*Falstaff Das Federviech Zweigelt Reserve 2018

I preferred the Pinot Noir with the duck for its gaminess, which matched nicely with the duck, but was very intrigued by the freshness of the Querschnitt, which utilized carbonic maceration in its production.

In this initial introduction to Austrian reds, we were advised that Blaufrankisch is usually more tannic than Zweigelt.

FLIGHT 3
Dry aged sirloin with vegetable linguine, cheese dumplings and a Zweigelt reduction was the last savory dish, served with:
*Prieler Blaufrankisch Johanneshohe 2018
*Iby Ried Hochäcker Blaufränkisch 2018
*Jalits Ried Diabas Blaufrankisch 2017
*Eichenwald Ried Durrau
Blaufrankisch 2017

Here, my pick was the Prieler, which was just lovely and had sufficient fruit, body and tannins to balance with the sirloin.

FLIGHT 4
A duo of chocolate mousse (white and dark), brandied cherries and pistachios was the final course. Featured with the “sought after” flight, it was accompanied by two reds and a dessert wine. In truth, I only enjoyed the dessert with the dessert wine, being very sensitive to the need for a wine to be as sweet (if not sweeter) than the food.

*Prieler Blaufrankisch Ried Mariental 2017
*Eichenwald, THE OAK Cuvee 2017 (a blend of Blaufrankisch, Zweigelt, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon)
*Heidi Schrock Ruster Ausbruch 2018 On the Wings of Dawn

While I did not enjoy these two reds with the food pairing, I did find them to be enjoyable overall and an example of some of the higher end reds coming out of Austria today. In this regard, the Prieler Blaufrankisch Ried Mariental 2017 garnered 97 points from Wine Enthusiast and retails at $108/bottle.

The botrytized Ruster Aubruch was lovely with honeyed sweetness, yet sufficient acidity to keep it from being too cloying and was a nice foil with dessert.

The key takeaway for me was that Austrian wines and especially those from Burgenland, offer up great quality, diversity and food-friendly options. There is a lot to learn (and, for the average consumer maybe too much), but ask your trusted wine associate to help guide you on your next trip to the wine store and you’ll open up a whole new world of wines.



 

A New Look at Long Island Wines

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With the first vineyard planted in 1973 by a young, starry-eyed couple fresh out of Harvard, the first seeds (or rather vines) of the Long Island wine region were sown. That couple, Louisa and Alex Hargrave, were true pioneers, bringing vision and bravado to their newly purchased farm. Much like the early English settlers that preceded them, Alex and Louisa came to the task with limited knowledge, but unlimited passion and drive, pushing them to succeed where others were sure they would fail. Before long, they were joined in their efforts by other adventurous souls, all of whom were in love with wine. As time flew by, a fledgling wine region was born, eventually becoming an internationally recognized producer of quality wine.

Today, there are 48 winery members of Long Island Wine Country, situated among the North Fork, South Fork (aka The Hamptons) and Long Island’s Western Suffolk County. The region has garnered repeated praise in both consumer and trade publications. Moreover, the bucolic region has retained much of its rural charm, making it a true escape from the hustle and bustle of New York City, located only two hours away.  Accordingly, the region makes a great getaway to visit the vineyards, taste some wines and stock up for the summer.

I have been familiar with Long Island wines since the early 2000s. In particular, when I first joined the wine industry in mid-2005, I set up a wine education business in Mattituck, adjacent to Macari Vineyards.  As our lives changed, we sold our Long Island real estate in 2013 and have only been back to the region a handful of times since then (see Island Wines), not for any other reason that being busy with other things. For me, Long Island wines are the jewel in New York State’s vinous crown, with high quality wines, exciting innovations in winemaking and warm-hearted people. At nearly 50 years old, the region has indeed found its footing and honed its knowledge of the terroir. Thus, it was a pleasure as well as a trip down memory lane as I recently tasted through a half case of Long Island wines.

TASTING NOTES

Sparkling Pointe Topaz Imperial Rose 2019, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $44.00
Produced in the same method as those from Champagne, this wine was produced with 50% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir and 16% Pinot Meunier, the same grape varieties used in that vaunted region. Sparkling Pointe is dedicated solely to sparkling wines and with few things more festive than bubbles, it was the perfect way to ring in the new year when we spent New Year’s Eve at the winery one year. More recently, we enjoyed the wine for an at-home date night of oysters, charcuterie and cheeses. The nose offers up intense fruit character of raspberry and strawberry, while the palate displays a fine and persistent perlage, good acidity, and lovely fruit flavors, culminating in long length.

Anthony Nappa Wines, Frizzante NV, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $22.00
Originally a winemaker for Shinn Estate (now known as Rose Hill Vineyards), Anthony launched his own eponymous brand in 2007 and has been pushing the envelope since the beginning as evidenced by his white Pinot Noir aptly named Anomaly. This blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 30% Viognier, 25% Moscato Giallo, undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle and is then aged sur lie (known in Italy as the Col Fondo method) yielding a lightly sparkling wine (hence the name frizzante). Somewhat cloudy, thanks to the production methods, this wine shows aromatic fruit and floral notes, slightly reminiscent of cider, on the nose and palate, with slight effervescence, good acidity, depth and concentration, and long length.

Macari Sauvignon Blanc “Katherine’s Field” 2016, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $24.00
The Macari family has been active in the region since 1960s, planting vines in 1995. The third generation of the family is now involved in the business. Today, they are firmly focused on sustainability and implement biodynamic farming practices in the vineyards. This 100% stainless steel fermented, Sauvignon Blanc shows slight smoke, citrus and tropical fruit on the nose. Citrus and tropical fruit persist on the dry palate, joined by a hint of savory herbal notes, with fresh, crisp acidity, a slight prickle, and long length.

Also see this story.

Peconic Bay Vineyards Riesling 2020, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $28.00
One of the first wineries we visited back in the day was Peconic Bay winery. The winery has recently re-opened after a lengthy closure, but vines were tended to during this interim period, so there is no loss to the quality of the fruit. Peconic Bay has always been well respected for its Riesling, which is classic in nature. slightly off dry, but mostly dry, crisp acidity, medium body, long length.

McCall Wines, Estate Pinot Noir 2015, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $30.00
As part of his efforts to save the farmland adjacent to his family’s property from the threat of development, Russ McCall planted his fields with twenty-one acres of vineyards, eventually making his first wines in 2007. The tasting room opened in 2010. I have a been a big fan of his Pinot Noirs since I first tasted them, and they continue to impress me. This latest bottle was no exception. Beautiful notes of earth and herbs greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, joined by tart cherry and berry flavors, with good acidity, medium body and long length.

The Lenz Winery, Estate Selection Merlot 2015, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $35.00
Originally established by the Lenz family, in 1988 the winery was sold to Peter and Deborah Carroll who have continued to maintain the highest standards for their wines, pitting them against world renowned wines in blind tastings where they hold their own and then some. The winemaking team is led by Eric Fry, who has been with Lenz since 1989. This lovely Merlot offers up smoky, plum and coffee notes on the nose, which persist on the palate, which is dry, with medium body, medium+ acidity, and long length.