Category Archives: Tasting Notes

Domaine Bousquet Grows Vines and a Village

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While Peter Gabriel sings about “Digging in the Dirt,” Franco Bastias, Chief Agronomist for, and Anne Bousquet, owner of, Domaine Bousquet were “Dishing the Dirt” at a recent seminar presented over Zoom. I had previously met Anne (see this story) and it was a pleasure to see her again and make Franco’s acquaintance.

More specifically, while this presentation touched briefly on the history of Domaine Bousquet, the primary focus was on Domaine Bousquet’s dedication to organic viticulture and the way in which the existing soil types (aka dirt) influence the various wines they produce. The buzzword of the day was sustainability, but this isn’t just lip service; there is a clear and significant commitment to such activities.

This emphasis on sustainability can be traced to Domaine Bousquet’s very beginning when Anne’s father initially built a well and planted vines in 1998, choosing to farm organically from the start. By 2005 they had earned full certification.

In this and many other practices, Domaine Bouquet has set the stage for the region with several area wineries and vineyards following suit and converting to organic viticulture. Not surprisingly, this is a point of pride for Anne. As she noted, it is imperative that we keep the land we have for the next generation. Thus, it is an easy decision for her to not use chemicals.

As a consequence of their fully organic vineyard status, Domaine Bousquet started strong in Europe (in Switzerland, in particular). But, although Anne is understandably proud of the financial success of the winery, it is apparent that her real passion is on sustainable efforts.

Building on these initial efforts, more recently, a 360o sustainability commitment has been formally implemented to extend these practices to all areas of the venture. Taking a three-pronged approach, they apply this philosophy on social, economic and environmental levels. In this regard, they are actively reducing their carbon footprint and implementing water saving measures such as the use of recycled water for irrigation. Not content to rest on their laurels, they are presently pursuing multiple organic certifications as well as Demeter certification for biodynamic farming.

Yet, they realize that their company is so much more than vineyards and a winery; it is also people. Having made the decision to construct their winery in Tupungato, a small village with limited commerce, they knew that they would have to train and develop local talent to get the staff they needed to run the operation. In fact, most of their employees are from the local area and have since been trained in various areas of grape growing and winemaking. As a further responsibility to their human resources, part of the decision for Anne and her family to give up living in Argentina full-time (she splits her time between Tupungato and Miami), was to give the team a chance to grow.

Beyond the confines of Domaine Bousquet, Anne has focused on community development through the Fair for Life initiative. Recognizing the need to help others – which is particularly important in a rural area – they have provided money to those in economic hardship and have supported local children’s homes.

As an additional measure of their devotion to these issues, they recently hired a full-time employee to oversee environmental issues. Moreover, in 2015, they started their own import company, which has now become a leader in organic wine imports.

Most recently, Anne is in the process of setting up a website called “World of Organic,” which she hopes to complete by the end of the year. This consumer-facing site will pull together various resources, and share information and knowledge — all in a simple, clear, transparent format.

In the end, Domaine Bousquet has invested time, energy and talent to ensure that its vineyards are kept in the healthiest condition for generations to come, ensuring that they are well suited for grape growing and, ultimately, making great wine.

Furthermore, they have taken care to become intimately familiar with each parcel of land, matching individual soil characteristics to the grape varieties that will most benefit from those conditions. For example, calcareous soils lend a distinct minerality to Cabernet Franc; sandy soils maintain ripeness and permit irrigation without fear of fungus for Pinot Noir; and the ability to establish deep roots, enables Malbec to avoid rot due to humidity.

With its multi-level approach, Domaine Bousquet’s commitment to sustainability permeates throughout the company and permits Anne to accomplish her simple desire, “We just want to make the finest wines possible and sell them at prices people can afford.” This is a sentiment worth sustaining.

TASTING NOTES

Domaine Bousquet Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $13
Pronounced nose of citrus, mineral. Dry palate with high acidity, medium body, fresh and lively flavors of candied lemon, minerality and green apple, with long length.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Chardonnay 2019 / SRP $18
Fermented in oak, then aged in wood for 6 months. Aromas of bruised apple, oak. Dry, medium to full bodied with medium+ acidity, slight smoke/oak on palate, culminating in long length.

Domaine Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 / SRP $13
Blackberry and herbal notes on the nose. This easy drinking wine is dry, with medium acidity, medium body, berries, herbs, and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Cabernet Franc 2018 / SRP $20
Displays woodsy, wet leaves and black fruit aromas. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium+ to full body, flavors of oak, spice, black fruit, medium+ tannins, and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Pinot Noir 2019 / SRP $18
On the nose, this wine offers up notes of smoke, herbs and black cherry. A very elegant wine, it is dry with good acidity, medium body, light to medium tannins, earthy and cherry flavors and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gran Malbec 2018 / SRP $25
This is a blend of 85% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah. Aged in French oak for 10 months. Smoke, black and blue fruits greet the nose. The dry palate shows medium acidity, full body, black and blue fruits, slight oak, spice, firm tannins, intensity, concentration and long length.

Alentejo wines are ones to watch

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While many people think of Italy, France and Spain when they think of wine, they may be limited in their ideas about Portugal. Yes, Portugal is home to rich, luscious dessert-worthy Port, but the country also produces a wide range of still and sparkling wines. In fact, Portugal has a 2,000-year history of winemaking. Moreover, when Portugal joined the EU in the mid-80s, winemakers were given access to EU funds that permitted them to invest in, and ultimately improve, their vineyards and wineries. And, the wines are still relatively inexpensive, meaning that you can enjoy a great bottle of wine at a great price!

Within Portugal, there are 13 regions that cover the full geography of the country, inclusive of its islands. Among these is Alentejo, just 90-minutes east of Lisbon, which is where the majority of cork comes from. Like the rest of the country, has a lengthy tenure in the wine world with its viticultural roots dating back to the Romans. It was further influenced by the Tartessians, the Phoenicians, and the Greeks.

The region of Alentejo and its 8 sub-regions.

Unfortunately, Alentejo was forced to uproot many of its vineyard under the Salazar dictatorship (1933-74) and replace them with wheat. Yet, despite this setback, the region has held onto its traditional winemaking practices and, aside from Georgia, is the only region where the use of amphorae has been utilized without interruption for several thousand years. In its current renaissance, the region has continued to focus on these traditional winemaking techniques such as the use of concrete casks and lagares.

Today, this relatively flat region is home to a hot, Mediterranean climate and boasts over 250 native grape varieties; the most prevalent being Antao Vaz, Arinto and Roupeiro among the whites and Alfrocheiro, Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, Castelao, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira among the reds. The international varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are also widely planted.

Additionally, Alentejo has been a big proponent of sustainable agriculture, earning international recognition (including the Drinks Business‘ Green Award 2020) for WASP (Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Program), members of which account for ~50% of Alentejo’s vineyard area. More specifically, the WASP program incorporates both agricultural and vinification aspects, but also includes an emphasis on reducing costs, increasing economic viability, environmental issues and social concerns.

With its twin emphasis on honoring its history and implementing forward-thinking practices, Alentejo wines are definitely ones to watch!

TASTING NOTES

Casa Relvas Herdade São Miguel Rosé 2020, SRP $15
Founded in 1997, Casa Relvas is a family winery with two generations currently involved. This lovely Provencal-style rose is produced from the indigenous Touriga Nacional, along with smaller quantities of Syrah, Aragonez and others. Pale onion skin in color, it has a lovely yeasty note on the nose thanks to its sur lie aging. It is redolent of unripe berries and melon and is dry, fresh, and clean on the palate with long length.

Cartuxa EA Red 2018, SRP $9
Initially founded in 1963, the Fundacao Eugenio de Almeida private foundation whose mission is to aid the development of the Evora region. Among its tasks, it is responsible for running the estate and winery, which has been in the Eugenio de Almeida family since the 19th century. This wine is a blend of 35% Aragonez, 30% Trincadeira, 20% Alicante Bouschet and 15% Syrah, and offers up jammy red fruit aromas, slight earth and menthol notes. On the palate, it is dry, very fruit forward with medium+ to full body, medium acidity, soft tannins, flavors of red fruit and earthy and good length.


Herdade do Rocim Amphora Tinto 2019, Alentejo, Portugal, SRP $18 The culmination of a dream, Herdade do Rocim was established by Fernando Pessoa whose estate includes both vineyards and olive groves. Produced from a blend of indigenous varieties (including Moreto, Tinta Grossa, Trincadeira and Aragonez), utilizing a large, clay pot in which to ferment the grapes, this wine draws on a 2,000+ year old tradition of amphora wines. The result is a beautifully complex wine with aromas of berries, cranberry, plum and slight spice. The dry palate displays good acidity, medium body, medium tannins, with lots of fresh red fruit and spice, culminating in long length.

Adega de Borba Premium Red 2017, $15
Created in 1955, Adega de Borba was among the first wineries to be part of the national wine planning agency (Junta Nacional do Winho) at a time when wine was less important to the area’s economy. Yet, with time, the winery has sustained itself to its current position of 300 grape growers who cultivate nearly 2,000 hectares of grapes, 70% dedicated to red varieties and 30% to white. The winery is situated with Borba, a sub-region of Alentejo and is home to some of the oldest vines in the area. Bringing together Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouscht and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine offers up lots of red fruit and spice, which persist on the full-bodied palate and are joined by notes of oak and darker fruit, with long length.

CARMIM Monsaraz Reserva Red 2018, SRP $16
The well-respected Cooperativa Agrícola de Reguengos de Monsaraz (aka CARMIM) was created in 1971 and currently counts 900 growers among its membership. With 24 different wines produced, it has quite a diverse portfolio. The wine has a pronounced nose of meat, smoke and red and black fruit that gives way to a dry palate with medium acidity, full body, robust black raspberry, oak, smoke and long length.

NB: All of the above wineries are members of WASP.

    Alto Adige wines hit the spot on a hot summer’s day

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    Alto Adige continues to have a soft spot in my heart and a warm welcome on my palate. These wines are typically expressive, while inexpensive, providing good price to quality ratio. They are also food friendly and quite refreshing.

    The smallest of Italy’s wine regions, Alto Adige produces high quality wines, but accounts for only 0.8% of all Italian wine production. The majority of these vineyards are situated on steep slopes with a patchwork of many, tiny plots owned by many different families. Given the challenges that the topography imposes on grape growing, coupled with the need for economies of scale, a large percentage of the region is managed by cooperatives.

    Two such cooperatives are Cantina Girlan and Cantina Colterenzio. Cantina Girlan got its start in 1923 with 23 families gathering together to produce wine in the region. Today, the winery is home to 200 families, representing a total of 230 hectares of vineyards. Established somewhat later (1960) Colterenzio counts 300 winegrowers among its members and manages 300 hectares of vineyards. The two wineries produce both red and white wines, with a higher proportion of whites, given the high altitude climate.

    These two options are excellent at the dinner table and are a nice respite from the heat and humidity of the dog days of summer.

    TASTING NOTES

    Cantina Colterenzio Cora Pinot Bianco 2020, Alto Adige, Italy, $18.00
    Aromas of spice, citrus, and smoke greet with nose, with crisp acidity, medium+ body, and notes of chalk,
    citrus and spice on the dry palate, culminating in long length

    Cantina Girlan Pinot Grigio 2019, Alto Adige, Italy, $16.00
    On the nose this wine displays notes of marzipan and citrus which persist on the fresh and clean, dry palate with medium+ body and long length.

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    A very Merry and bright future ahead

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    Over the past year-plus, I have had the privilege of becoming familiar with the Merry Edwards Winery and its wines. Tasting through the single vineyard Pinot Noirs, I continue to be impressed with the quality, character and elegance of these various expressions of this grape as influenced by each unique terroir. 

    As I discovered during the Gary Farrell tasting, the Russian River Valley has such a diversity of microclimates that the Russian River Valley Winegrowers have created six smaller areas they refer to as neighborhoods within the boundaries of the region to more accurately reflect these differences.

    In this regard, the most recent selection of wines I tasted included selections from four different vineyards, including Georganne (Middle Reach), Olivet Lane (Santa Rosa Plains), Klopp (Laguna Ridge) and Coopersmith (Laguna Ridge), as well as the Russian River Valley Pinot, which is produced from grapes sourced from throughout the Valley.

    Of course, while the vineyards’ locations within a given neighborhood (and hence microclimate) will influence the finished wine, it is also the soil, site and other growing factors that make the wines from each vineyard unique from another.

    In addition to the beauty within each bottle, the most recent releases also sport new labels. These new designs preserve the spirit of the original, while freshening up the brand’s look. More importantly, the intention is to focus on the future with a positive outlook and much hope.

    At a time when things are so in flux, we could all use more hope and desire for a bright future. As Merry Edwards Winery continues to craft such amazing wines, its future is bright indeed!

    These wines are a perfect way to celebrate National Pinot Noir Day (August 18). Plus, you can participate in a special virtual tasting featuring Merry Edwards’ winemaker, Heidi von der Mehden, and Karen MacNeil, author of the “The Wine Bible,”

    The two will be live on Zoom on Wednesday, August 18th @ 4 PM PDT and will taste:
    – 2019 Merry Edwards Meredith Estate Pinot Noir
    – 2019 Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
    – 2019 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

    If you wish to participate in this free event, register in advance online: https://www.merryedwards.com/special-offers

    TASTING NOTES

    These wines are available for purchase on the Merry Edwards’ website.

    Merry Edwards Winery Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley(CA), US, $60.00
    Spice and floral aromas greet the nose. The dry, yet juicy, palate offers up bright acidity, ripe raspberries, rhubarb, an herbal undercurrent, along with soft tannins, medium body, and very long length.

    Merry Edwards Winery Coopersmith Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), US, $73.00
    This vineyard, originally an apple orchard, was purchased by Merry and her husband (Ken Coopersmith) in 1999 and planted it to Pinot in 2001. Earthy, cherry and cocoa notes greet the nose and persist on the palate, with high acidity, medium body, soft tannins and very long length.

    Merry Edwards Winery Georganne Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley, $70.00
    Merry first leased this vineyard in 2006 from Georganne and Bob Proctor. As a sign that this collaboration was meant to be, Ken and Merry’s middle names are George and Ann, respectively. On the nose, this wine presents smoky, earthy and herbal aromas, with a generous palate of rich, round fruit — raspberries and cherries — joined by
    herbaceous and a slight menthol note, with medium acidity, medium body, and very long length.

    Merry Edwards Winery Klopp Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), US, $74.00
    Originally planted in 1989, Merry has been involved with this vineyard from the very beginning. With the small berry clusters that this vineyard produces, the wines generally provide dark fruit and earthy notes. Aromas of dark cherries and blueberry persist on the dry palate, along with hints of herbs and earth, vibrant acidity and medium+ body, culminating in very long length.

    Merry Edwards Winery Olivet Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), US, $80.00
    Planted in 1973, Merry has been producing an Olivet Lane Pinot since 1997. On the nose, this wine displays floral, cherry and dried herbal notes. The palate is dry with medium+ acidity, firm, ripe tannins and medium+ body, with rich and concentrated tart cherry, herbs, earthy, and a black tea undercurrent, with very long length.

    Gary Farrell Winery, the single vineyards and its neighborhoods

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    As a pioneer of the Russian River Valley (in Sonoma, CA), Gary Farrell kicked off his wine career in the late 1970s with an emphasis on cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Working along with fellow vintners including Davis Bynum, Joe Rochioli and others, together they helped put this (now) prestigious area on the map.

    The Gary Farrell label itself was launched in 1982, with the first wine produced with fruit from the Rochioli Vineyard. This set the stage for what was to follow – crafting wines from other people’s grapes. In fact, to this day, Gary Farrell doesn’t own any of its own vineyards; all of the fruit is “contracted” from various vineyards throughout the Valley – many with a simple handshake agreement. In this regard, Gary Farrell Winery has worked closely with many winegrowers for decades, currently sourcing grapes from about 36 vineyards, most (if not all) of which practice certified sustainable farming.



    Sold in 2004, the winery is presently owned by Bill Price and a group of industry investors, keeping the same focus on pure expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Since 2012, the winery’s winemaking has been under the direction of Theresa Heredia, a California native with a bachelor’s degree in biochemistry from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo.

    Heredia initially sought to leverage her love of science and her desire to share her knowledge through the pursuit of a Ph.D. However, during her graduate studies, she became fascinated about the research being conducted on the chemistry of wine by her fellow grad students. With a love of drinking wine already firmly entrenched, the discovery of wine science now called to her, and she transferred into the enology program three days later. She eventually left U.C. Davis to become a winemaker.

    Over the next several years, Theresa gained experience at Saintsbury and Joseph Phelps’ Freestone Vineyards and also

    developed a Burgundian approach through her work at Domaine de Montille. Thus, she came to her current role with a solid background in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as well as single-vineyard wines.

    Thus, it is not surprising that upon Heredia’s arrival at Gary Farrell, the company shifted focus from one, single vineyard wine to 36 single vineyards, with the intention of showing the full expression of the Russian River Valley’s various vinous neighborhoods. In this regard, Heredia tailors her winemaking to the vineyard at the time of harvest. As she notes, her philosophy is to always respect the fruit.

    A recent tasting provided an in-depth look at several of Gary Farrell’s single vineyard wines in an effort to compare and contrast the differing “neighborhoods” within the larger Russian River Valley. And, while the vineyards are not technically sub-AVAs, they do act as such, with distinct soil compositions, microclimates and clonal types, all of which impact the style of the resulting wine.

    The wines tasted were all from the 2017 vintage, which sport new, blue labels to more easily distinguish these single vineyard wines from the company’s Russian River Selection wines. More specifically, the blue label designates a single vineyard. Two of the single vineyards have national distribution; the others are only available through the winery.

    TASTING NOTES
    CHARDONNAYS
    All of the Chardonnays are 100% malolactic fermented, thereby converting the sharper, malic (think apple) acid into the creamier lactic (think milk) acid. The wines were barrel fermented in lightly toasted barrels about 30% and then aged for 8 to 9 months in oak barrels, 35% of which was new oak. The puncheons undergo a long, light toast, which imparts creaminess and richness, while minimizing oak influence. The overall goal is to accentuate the fruit, not mask it with wood.

    Gary Farrell Winery Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $45.00
    The Olivet Lane Vineyard is situated within the Santa Rosa Plains a unique, flat area with cold air that settles at night yielding wines with concentrated fruit, texture, and vibrant and juicy acidity. The vineyard was planted in 1975 with the Wente clone, which clone produces small berries.
    The wine offered up aromas of apple and well-integrated oak, which persist on the dry palate, along with baking spices. The elegant wine displays medium+ acidity, medium+ body and long length.

    Gary Farrell Winery Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $60.00
    The Ritchie Vineyard hails from Laguna Ridge, which is located in the center of the Valley, thereby taking on characteristics of each adjacent area. The wines are generally packed with flavors, tremendous intensity and are more opulent and less acidity driven. The legendary Ritchie Vineyard was first planted in 1972. The selection of Chardonnay planted here develops hens and chicks (grapes of uneven sizes in the same bunch), which requires careful pressing.  Aromas of apple, citrus, smoke and oak greet the nose. The dry palate shows medium+ acidity, medium+ body, and flavors of golden apple, citrus/orange and very long length.

    Gary Farrell Winery Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
    The history between Rochioli Vineyard and Gary Farrell dates back 38 years, a vineyard found within the Middle Reach area. This northern part of the Russian River Valley, up near Healdsburg, is adjacent to the Russian River, which pulls fog and keeps nights cool. Meanwhile, the days are much warmer. Consequently, the resulting wines are typically riper with more tropical fruit. This wine provides notes of citrus and stone fruit on both the nose and dry palate. Richer and riper than the other two, this wine displays juicy acidity, fuller body, with flavors of citrus and wood, culminating in very long length. 

    PINOT NOIRS

    Gary Farrell Winery Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
    Also found within the Middle Reach area, the Bacigalupi Vineyard was established in 1964 when Helen and Charles Bacigalupi planted it to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and later claimed fame as the growers of the grapes used by Chateau Montelena’s winning wine in the Judgement of Paris in 1976. Pinot Noir from Middle Reach usually offers up notes of cherry, rose petals, floral, raspberries, and a general supple expression of fruit and earthiness. With aromas of red cherries, smoke and dried flowers, this wine is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, and flavors of spice, earth, cherry, giving way to long length.


    Gary Farrell Winery Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Green Valley/Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $55.00
    The Hallberg Vineyard takes its name from its previous owners and sits within Green Valley, which is actually an official sub-AVA of the Russian River Valley. Thanks to the Green Valley’s proximity to the Pacific Ocean, it is drenched in fog from the afternoon until the following morning. Resulting wines most frequently display an earthy backbone with bright acidity and darker fruit such as cassis and huckleberry. Aromas of black raspberry, blackberry and earthiness persist on the dry palate, along with bracing acidity, medium body and very long length.

    Gary Farrell Winery McDonald Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $70.00
    Situated within Sebastopol Hills, the McDonald Mountain Vineyard is at the southern tip of the Russian River Valley, with exposure to the Petaluma Gap. Known as the “heartbreak vineyard,” yields are very low and there is natural desiccation due to lots of wind, fog and cool weather. Additionally, the clonal selection results in tiny clusters. The key characteristic of these wines is an acid backbone, with less fruit, more earth character.
    The nose offers up notes of earth, black tea, cassis, raspberry and exotic spice, with a dry, angular palate, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.

    Gary Farrell Winery Martaella Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
    Another vineyard who calls the Santa Rosa Plains home, the Martaella Vineyard is planted similarly to those in Burgundy with vines trained low to the ground to keeps the vines warmer overnight. The vineyard is planted to a blend of an heirloom selection of grapes.
    An opulent wine with high acidity and good fruit concentration, it is elegant, rich and complex, with dark fruit flavors of blueberries, cherries, floral and spice, culminating in long length.

    Maps courtesy of: https://russianrivervalley.org/discover/neighborhoods
    Photographs courtesy of Gary Farrell Winery


    Poggio Il Castellare, for the love of Sangiovese

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    For most people, owning one vineyard is sufficient. But, for the Bruna Baroncini, one winery was just the beginning. Over the past several decades, Bruna and her family have amassed a lovely portfolio of Tuscan wines. In particular, the acquisitions have focused heavily on exploring the gamut of Sangiovese’s Tuscan expressions.

    Not surprisingly, Bruna Baroncini loves Sangiovese. In fact, she has a whole philosophy on how this grape variety is, in her words, “similar to managing a man,” which I’ll get to later. Fortunately, as the head of her family’s wine business, she has lots of opportunity to immerse herself in the world of Sangiovese.

    In this regard, the Baroncini family has a wine producing history that spans centuries. Yet, interestingly given Bruna’s penchant for Sangiovese, they initially began making wine at Podere Torre Terza in San Gimignano, a denomination known for its whites.

    From the very start, this family has had a clear division of labor; the wine is always made by the women, the men are tasked to sell the wine. Unfortunately, Bruna had to take on both sides of the business when her brother passed away. Thankfully, she is now joined by her nephew Samuele Baroncini, along with their resident enologist Nicola Berti.

    Interestingly given Bruna’s penchant for Sangiovese, the family’s roots are at Podere Torre Terza in San Gimignano, an area more known for its whites than reds. Yet, the winery also produces the Sangiovese-led Chianti Colli Senesi. Building upon the family’s lengthy tenure in the industry, they have since added properties in Morellino (Fattoria Querciarossa), Chianti Classico (Casuccio Tarletti) and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Il Faggeto).

    But, it is evident that the heart and soul of the company today is Poggio Il Castellare, situated on the southeast side of Montalcino. Bruna purchased the small estate property in 1998, realizing “her dream of producing Brunello, ‘the king of reds’.” Around the same time, Bruna made the acquaintance of Jonathan Shiekman of Linwood Wines,  who immediately recognized their strong passion for the land and for growing the best possible grapes. Accordingly, he began bringing their wines to the U.S.  Today, the wine is available at Sherry-Lehmann, BevMo, ABC Wine, Premier Wines and can be shipped to nearly any state.

    While Poggio Il Castellare is not as well known as many other Brunello producers, its wines have received acclaim over the years. More specifically, in 2004, the Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino earned 96 points in Wine Spectator and proceeded to garner at least 90 points from the publication over the next 14 years. Moreover, it generally ranks among the highest in blind tastings, which is a nice distinction for a more affordable Brunello option.

    And, although the Baroncini have recently expanded their wine reach to Georgia to explore this ancient wine producing country, Bruna’s heart is still connected to her beloved Sangiovese. As she waxes poetically, she expounds on her philosophy that Sangiovese’s diversity is very much like a growing man. In Morellino, the grape expresses itself as a boy, growing to young adulthood in Montepulciano, then maturing with balance and power in in Chianti Classico and finally exhibiting maturity and the potential for long life in Brunello.

    Currently, Poggio Il Castellare produces four wines: two traditional wines and two modern, international wines. The traditional Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino are considered to be the more sophisticated, serious wines of the property. However, the other two are not to be dismissed out of hand as they each offer their own set of pleasures.



    TASTING NOTES

    Poggio Il Castellare Rosso di Montalcino 2018 D.O.C., Tuscany, Italy, $30.00
    Produced from 100% Sangiovese, this wine is fermented solely in stainless steel and then partially (~15%) aged in wood (barriques and tonneau) and then blended together after 6 months. The wine is meant to be an easy interpretation of the area, one that is easy to drink, fruit forward and supple. Redolent of red cherries, this refreshing wine offers up medium+ acidity, good tannins, and flavors of red currant, rhubarb and slight leafy/herbal notes, culminating in very long length.

    Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2016 D.O.C.G., Tuscany, Italy, $70.00
    The 2016 is the current release, which was rated as a 5-star vintage. The wine is aged for 24 months in a blend of barriques and tonneau and then aged for an additional four months in bottle. Aromas of perfume, cherry and menthol/eucalyptus greet the nose. This dry wine displays medium+ acidity, dusty, ripe tannins, notes of tart cherry, herbs and dried herbs, with very long length. It is elegant with long aging potential.

    Poggio Il Castellare Passo dei Caprioli 2019 Toscana Rosso I.G.T., Tuscany, Italy, $22.00
    Taking the name capriole, which is Italian for baby deer, this blend of 70% Sangiovese Grosso and 30% Merlot, aged solely in stainless steel, was created as a very drinkable wine. Notes of plum and spices dominate the nose giving way to ripe red fruit with anise and a slight leafiness. It has medium acidity, soft tannins and a dry palate.

    Poggio Il Castellare Cervio 2014 Sant’Antimo D.O.C., Tuscany, Italy, $80.00
    The small denomination of Sant’Antimo is a place where wine makers can have more freedom in what grapes are grown. For Nicola, Cabernet Franc is one of his favorite varieties in the world and he welcomed the challenge of making a 100% varietal wine with it. With only 6,000 bottles produced annually, it has become a bit of a cult wine. Harvested late in October, fermented in stainless steel and aged in French barriques for two years, this is a wine that can age for 10-15 years. It was showing some development, with aromas of dried spices, thyme, dark fruits, black currant and blackberries, which persisted on the dry palate. It had medium+ acidity, beautiful, resolved tannins, elegance and very long length.

    Picnics of Perfection and the Perfect Wines to Pair with them

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    The fires of Beltane have come and gone, ushering in warmer weather and brighter days as we await next month’s Summer Solstice. For me, this means outdoor dining
    and, while outdoor dining took on new meaning this past year, there’s something about eating outside that generally adds to the ambience (although less so in February — at least in New York). Of course, with lovely weather, verdant lawns, delicious food and great friends, a picnic is an especially lovely experience. Thus, my tiffin box and I were delighted to take to the park recently in search of sun, al fresco fare and good company, accompanied by good wine.

    I can still remember one of my first picnics as a young child. I simply draped a cloth on an old tree stump and proceeded to enjoy my lunch. As I got older, my picnics became more elaborate, particularly when my husband and I began to explore the joys of picnicking on our first visit to France together. This is not particularly surprising given that the word pique-nique dates to 17th century France. In any event, we would attend the local farmer’s market, select an assortment of bread, cheeses, meats and a bottle of wine before finding the perfect spot in which to partake of our meal. These pleasant memories set the stage for our future outings in parks, at polo events and elsewhere.


    Consequently, today, picnics are a big part of our summer plans and I am always at the ready with my picnic backpack, picnic blanket and the aforementioned tiffin box. While I take great pleasure in the creation of a beautiful meal in a beautiful setting, your ideal picnic might simply be a blanket and baloney sandwiches. Neither one of is right, as long as we are both having a great time!

    That being said, I do feel that any meal is elevated by the presence of wine and picnics are no exception. Seek out fresh whites, crisp rosés and bubbles of all shades as refreshing, food friendly and fun options to adorn one’s outdoor feast.

    Here are some wonderful wine options to get you started!



    WHITES
    Veramonte Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Casablanca Valley, Chile, $11.99
    From the cool Casablanca Valley in Chile, this wine offers up fresh herbal and citrus aromas, which persist on the palate with zippy acidity, medium body and good length. As an organic wine, it represents only a small percentage of Chilean vineyards that have sought out this designation.

    Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00
    From the highly respected producer, Merry Edwards, this Sauvignon Blanc is a more concentrated option with rich fruit notes of pear and citrus along with an herbal character on the nose. It provides good acidity, is slightly riper than the 2018, with medium-to-full body and very long length. This is a pricier option than the others listed here, but is definitely worth the splurge.
    For more on Merry Edwards, see these stories:
    – In Pursuit of Pleasure, Promise and Pinot
    – Making Merry for the Holidays

    Vilarnau Brut Reserva NV, Cava, Spain, $14.99
    Cava producer, Vilarnau, has been around since 1949 and is located in the of heart of Catalonia in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, just outside Barcelona. Its current labels pay homage to Antoni Gaudi, whose many masterpieces can be found in the city. Also an organic wine, this traditional blend of Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo, is aged over 15 months in bottle, with toasty, yeasty, apple notes on the nose and palate, good persistence of bubbles, and long length.

    Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Extra Dry, Treviso, Italy, $13.00
    Founded in 1960, this family-owned winery is now run by Giovanni Corvezzo, who was responsible for converting the vineyards to organic farming in 2013, and has since earned its organic certification in Italy. With a very fresh nose of cotton candy, pear and floral notes, this lovely sparkler is dry on palate, with good persistence of bubbles, vibrant acidity and long length.

    ROSES
    Domaine Bousquet Gaia Rosé 2020, Mendoza, Argentina, $20.00
    While I had the pleasure of tasting wine with Anne Bousquet just before the pandemic, this is a new wine from the winery. Produced from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, the nose is redolent of raspberries and strawberries that persist on the dry palate, along with medium+ acidity, medium body and long length.

    Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Rosé Extra Dry, Millesimato Treviso, Italy, $13.00
    It’s official! Prosecco can now legally be produced as a rosé sparkling wine. Another organic and vegan option from Corvezzo, this wine offers up aromas of berries, cherry and peach, with beautiful freshness on the palate, and a gentle perlage, along with long length.

    Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé Delicat NV, Cava, Spain, $15.99
    From the same producer noted above, with its Gaudi-inspired label, this sparkling rosé is soon to be certified organic. A blend of 85% Garnacha and 15% Pinot Noir, the wine displays fresh floral and berry notes with a lovely dry, effervescent palate, and balanced acidity, culminating in long length.

    If you desire your own very special picnic without doing all the work, check out Perfect Picnic.

    Collio, A C of Shining Wines

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    I was recently invited to take part in a virtual tasting featuring the wines of Collio, an area I had had the pleasure of visiting in December 2010. With nearly a decade since that first introduction, I was eager to reacquaint myself with these wines. In addition to meeting with various winemakers on our trip, we had the opportunity to steep ourselves in the culture of the area. And, as we were reminded during the virtual event, it is this unique and varied culture that permeates the wines themselves. Of course, beyond the cultural influences, all wines are a direct result of the climatic conditions in which they are grown and Collio is no exception. Yet we were advised that, like an orchestra playing a symphony, the wines needed all of the instruments to fully shine.

    Among our cultural endeavors, we toured the town of Aquileia, a city originally established by the Romans, who first cultivated grapes in the area. Presently a UNESCO World Heritage site, Aquileia’s Basilica, built in 1000 CE, had much of its history lost until they undertook renovations in 1909 and discovered an amazing 4th century mosaic floor hiding underneath the more modern structure.  

    We also got a glimpse of the area’s war-torn history as we hiked along the mountain ridge of Sabotin, which served as an important part of the Isonza Front during WWI. Due to its topography, it was a key defensive point for the Austro-Hungarian army against the Italians in 1915 and 1916. As we trekked the rocky crest, I joked that if we fell off the mountain and died, we would be buried in either Italy or Slovenia, depending upon which side we fell. But, in all seriousness, this arbitrary border had kept families apart, pitting one against the other. Today, the Sabotin Peace Park honors those who fought and serves as a reminder of this historic period.

    A further influence on Collio’s culture was the region’s roots in the Hapsburg empire. In fact, the area had been under Austrian rule until 1915 when it finally became part of Italy. This, coupled with its shared border with Slovenia, results in an interesting mix of cultures. Accordingly, local signage is often written in multiple languages – Italian, German and Slovene – and the cuisine is a blend of these national influences.

    Nestled between the Adriatic Sea and the striking, Julian Alps, Collio is blessed with a moderate climate as the mountains protect the area from harsh winds, while its proximity to the sea makes it warmer than neighboring inland areas. Significant diurnal shifts ensure that the grapes retain their acidity while the soil imparts structure and minerality due to its composition of numerous layers of marl and sandstone (referred to as Ponca).

    Part of the Friuli Venezia Giulia wine region, the C-shaped, Collio denomination is comprised of 7,000 hectares, of which 1,500 are devoted to viticulture. Within this small enclave, there are 350 wineries each growing an average of 2.5 hectares. Vines are grown exclusively on the hills (colli in Italian), with 17 different grapes cultivated. Primarily known for varietal, clean, complex and elegant white wines, which account for most of the production, Collio relies on both indigenous and international varieties.

    The local Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit share a 2,000- year history, while the international grapes of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Bianco were imported to the area in the 19th century. Not surprisingly, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc have established a strong foothold here due to their overall popularity worldwide. In addition to the 17 varietally labeled wines permitted in the Collio DOC, there are two others: Collio Bianco and Collio Rosso for white and red blends, respectively.

    Led by wine journalist Matteo Bellotto and Mitja Sirk, a local sommelier, the tasting featured an overview of the region as well as a guided tasting of six wines. As Matteo noted, it is through wine and food that the locals speak and they were excited to have these wines speak to us. Moreover, at the end of the event, Matteo shared that we had started as guests, but having had this experience together, we were now friends.

    All of the wines we tasted were from the 2019 vintage. This vintage was a particularly good one given the lack of rain in September. Consequently, the wine producers did not have to rush to harvest the grapes, giving them a long maturation on the vine. In fact, the area is one of the rainiest, more often forcing winemakers to pick in August. Yet, despite the challenges that this wet weather brings, many Collio producers are committed to practicing organic viticulture.

    As we turned our attention to the wines themselves, we were advised that it was a tradition to taste the Ribolla Gialla first, given its high acidity and higher alcohol compared to other local wines. Its freshness prepares the palate for what is to come.

    Conti Formentini Ribolla Gialla 2019, Collio, Italy
    One of the oldest producers in the area, the Formentini family purchased a castle in San Floriano del Collio in 1520 and has remained in the area ever since. This variety is often connected with orange wines, but is also produced as a white wine.

    Tasting Note: Aromas of yellow plum and apple greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, along with high acidity, medium+ body and long length.

    Ronco Bianchis Friulano 2019, Collio, Italy
    This winery is under the ownership and direction of Giancarlo Palla and his sons, Alberto and Lorenzo. Its name is derived from “Ronco”, from the Friulan word “fianco, or side of a hill” and “Blanchis”, white, the color of its wines. Previously referred to as Tocai Friulano, now just Friulano, this indigenous grape is prone to producing high yields, yet it still produces well balanced wines.

    Tasting Note: This wine displays distinct floral notes joined by pear. It is dry, with medium acidity, medium body, and flavors of peach, pear, and floral, culminating in long length with a bitter almond note in the finish.

    Blazic Malvasia 2019, Collio, Italy
    This family run winery has been producing wine since 1923. Also grown in Croatia and Slovenia, as a variety Malvasia requires more talent and patience on the part of the winemaker.

    Tasting Note: Redolent of stone fruits, this dry wine offers up rich and ripe peach and herbal flavors, good acidity, full body, nice length and a citrus note in the finish.

    Tenuta Borgo Conventi Pinot Grigio 2019, Collio, Italy
    Established on land that was previously a monastery, Borgo Conventi was founded in 1975. It was purchased by the Folonari family in 2001 and was more recently (April 2019) acquired by the Moretti Polegato family who also owns Villa Sandi, a well-respected producer of Prosecco and Prosecco Superiore.

    Matteo explained that Pinot Grigio can often be misunderstood. In Collio, it carries the identity of the terroir and is not an everyday wine as it is in other regions such as those from Alto Adige and Friuli. By way of illustration, Matteo depicted Pinot Grigio from Collio as the Beatles, while Pinot Grigio from elsewhere as Shakira.

    Tasting Note: This dry wine displayed a lovely freshness and minerality, with medium+ acidity, medium to full body, and long length.


    Toros Pinot Bianco 2019, Collio, Italy
    With a long history in the area, the Toròs family first came to Novali in the early 20th century. Today, the estate is owned by Franco Toròs, who has focused his efforts on modern winemaking.

    Matteo suggested that the region is just beginning to understand the potential of Pinot Bianco as it finds its own evolution in the terroir. As part of his signature in producing this variety, Franco always uses a small percentage (<20%) of oak in its production.

    Tasting Note: With a slightly woody note on the nose, this dry wine offered up medium acidity, full body, a woody undercurrent along with apple and long length.

    Polje Fantazija Collio Bianco 2019, Collio, Italy
    The Sutter family has been producing wine since 1933, initially in Piave. They now have the Polje estate in Collio, which derives its name “from the characteristic local karst sinkholes.”

    While the Collio Bianco DOC presently permits a blend of indigenous and international grapes (as in this one which brings together Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla and Sauvignon Blanc), this DOC will eventually be restricted to blends of indigenous varieties only.

    Tasting Note: This wine has aromas of flowers and pineapple, while the use of wood in its production manifests as a toothpick characteristic on the full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.

    Sokol Blosser Celebrates 50

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    This continues to be a challenging time for everyone as we still must deal with limited opportunities for interaction and celebration in an effort to stay safe and socially distant. Yet, when there are milestones to be celebrated, we very much want to share these experiences with friends, family and other important people.

    I am all too aware of this dilemma having reached the age of 50 back in October. For years, I had been planning a big birthday party with a big wheel of Parmesan Reggiano and lots of cake. But, the universe had other plans and so I maneuvered the vagaries of a pandemic party, respecting people’s various comfort levels and hosted two mini-parties at rooftop (read outdoor) venues in New York City. Thanks to the generosity of my husband and dear friends, it never felt like a Plan B, despite being just that.

    So, with this in mind, I was delighted to receive an invitation to join Sokol Blosser winery in recognition of their 50th anniversary. I am sure that the Sokol Blosser family had been planning this momentous occasion for some time and that hosting a “party” on Zoom was never on their dream list, but it was what was available to them this month.

    I was particularly eager to attend since in the Before Times I had had the distinct pleasure of meeting Alison Sokol Blosser on two occasions. The first was an intimate dinner at Morimoto in April 2015 and the other was in April 2019 at Astor Wines for the debut of Second Generation 2GV Pinot Noir Cuvée, an event she attended with her brother, Alex. Plus, I have always been a fan of their wines and their pioneering spirit, with them having been the among the founding families to grow grapes and make wine in Oregon.

    My enthusiasm was well rewarded. Despite the e-nature of the event, it was filled with warmth, funny stories, light-hearted jabs and an overall sense of love and passion for each other and for the winery that has come to mean so much to the Sokol Blosser family.

    In the true spirit of celebration, the event kicked off with a toast to the family and winery with a glass of their Bluebird Cuvée sparkling wine.

    Bluebird Cuvée Sparkling 2018, Oregon/Washington (US), SRP $32
    This blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Muscat, Muller-Thurgau and Riesling is comprised of fruit sourced from both Washington state and Oregon (45%-55% split). It has a lovely, creamy mouthfeel, persistent perlage, with fresh fruit aromas, a hint of peach and peach pit, with long length.

    Then, we turned our attention to hearing from Bill, Susan, Alison and Alex. Starting at the very beginning, Bill shared that since he had been a young kid, he had always wanted to be a farmer and grow things. After college, he travelled to France, gaining exposure to wine and vineyards, which opened up his eyes. “It was a whole new thing,” he explained, which instilled a budding interest in wine.

    This newly acquired passion dovetailed perfectly with U.S. history as the mid-60s found the whole wine industry coming alive amidst the post-prohibition era. By accident (although some may say there are no accidents in life), Bill met some guys who had studied at UC Davis and had made the decision that the best place to grow Pinot Noir in the U.S. was the Willamette Valley in Oregon since it was the closest to Burgundy as they could find. He noted that, “It’s way warmer today, but still has a good climate.”

    Of course, this wasn’t just any group of guys, but David Lett, Dick Erath and Charles Coury, all of whom “got the whole thing going with their pioneer, crazy attitude.”

    “Let’s do it!” said Bill. And the rest, as they say, is history.

    Alison questioned her mom’s reaction to such a plan and Susan explained that “I should be a good wife and I didn’t have better ideas…” so she agreed to the plan. Interestingly, once assembled, the group consisted entirely of couples, but as Susan revealed, while the guys took the front-facing roles, the women were really important too. For her part, she describes herself as more a vineyard person than a winemaker.

    As Susan and Bill shared various stories of their early days, they advised that one of the first challenges was understanding how to grow grapes in Oregon. All of the available books were written for the Central Valley (in California), which has a considerably different climate and topography than Willamette. Instead, they looked to European publications for guidance and thankfully had enough foreign language skills among their pioneering group to translate this much needed knowledge. As Bill acknowledged, “It was a classic bootstrap operation.” In the end, they chose to import Dijon Pinot Noir clones to get started and planted their first vines in 1972.

    Then, as Susan related, “We had to sell it.” Yet, the world was not ready for Oregon Pinot Noir in the 1970s. Among their various efforts, they brought a map to show potential customers where Oregon was located. It took decades (2000s) before top restaurants sought out Oregon Pinots for their wine lists. Moreover, Susan recognized that the Drouhin family’s arrival in the Valley was very key in gaining much needed support and a seal of approval.

    Another important visitor to Willamette was Madame Bize-Leroy of Domaine Romanée-Conti, who did a tasting with Bill during his first vintage (1977). She pronounced “There is potential here.” But even she shared that making wine and selling it is never easy, despite being from such a vaunted estate, noting that, “Every year throws a new curve.” That visit has stayed with him.

    But, in spirt of the difficulties they faced, both Bill and Susan were quick to assert that they have no regrets.

    In 2008, Susan and Bill handed the baton to Alex and Alison as the second generation. The two became Co-Presidents. As the conversation shifted from the winery’s founding, Alex and Alison regaled the attendees with tales from their childhood. As Alex explained, growing up, he received no allowance. Rather, he had to work in the winery and vineyard to get pocket money. He started at about age 11, learning very early on that “making wine is primarily cleaning.”

    When taking over the reins from their parents, Alex and Alison thought hard about what they wanted for the winery in its next chapter. They set their sights on continuing to raise the quality and also on becoming known as a sparkling wine house. While Bill agreed that Oregon is good for sparkling due to the climate, he further reflected that despite this recognition, he didn’t have the nerve to do sparkling wine since any little flaw shows up. So, it was up to the next generation to take on this challenge. Alison added that their first promise to each other was that they were not going to kill each other.

    Susan’s memory is slightly different from that of her offspring. She recalls that they had such wonderful, grandiose plans for expansion and then the financial market had other plans. In the wake of the Lehman Brothers collapse and the recession, Alison and Alex were forced to sell wine just to keep in the business. But, Susan feels that this was a good lesson for the two to learn early on in their leadership.

    In keeping with their desire to produce sparkling wine, they started with a Brut Rosé in 2010, a cool vintage, which is conducive to the production of sparkling wine. In 2015, they decided to make a Brut Cuvée, which was inspired by their Evolution White blend. It is deliberately produced with a short tirage of less than one year, which keeps the autolysis from imparting too strong of a yeasty, bread character to the wine. Rather, the goal is a purity of fresh fruit. Today, with this goal achieved, Alex describes Sokol Blosser as a reductionist house as opposed to one with an oxidative style.

    Beyond his role as Co-President, Alex has been the winemaker since 2012, which was a good vintage. However, he believes that “It’s the vintages that try you, push you that are the ones that you from the most and are most connected to.”

    That being said, Alex boasted of their good planning in having their anniversary coincident with a great vintage. 2018 was that vintage replete with ripeness, tannins and acidity as well as that unique combination of both quality and quantity (one usually gets one or the other).

    As we tasted the other wines, Alex explained that all of their wines are made the same; the difference is in where the grapes come from. Located in the Dundee Hills AVA, today Sokol Blosser owns 88 acres, which are certified organic. They lease an additional 18 acres in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA (which are also certified organic).

    Dundee Hills 2018 Estate Pinot Noir, SRP $42
    As their entry level Pinot Noir, this is a blend of all of their various blocks. It offers up a beautiful nose of cherries, with a dry palate, medium+ to high acidity, medium body, dusty tannins, ripe cherries, slight oak, and an earthy undercurrent, culminating in long length.

    Old Vineyard Block Estate Pinot Noir 2018, Dundee Hills (OR), USA, SRP $60
    Produced as a tribute to Mom and Dad, this wine sports a special, retro label from the 1970s. The original wines in this vineyard block are gone due to phylloxera, but they were replanted in the 1990s, maintaining the original composition. This wine has more density than the Dundee Hills Pinot, with medium+ to full body, slight spice, less earthy notes and more pronounced cherry and berry flavors. It needs time to develop.

    Goosepen Block Estate Pinot Noir 2011, Dundee Hills (OR), USA, $110 (current); $80 upon release, 200 cases produced
    This wine is redolent of floral, cherry and herbal aromas. The elegant palate provides bright acidity, medium body, lovely tannins, cherries, slight oak and herbs, with very long length.

    The winery was generous in sharing this library wine with the event participants and apparently there had been much debate on what to send. Finally, it was agreed that this wine, hailing from the cool 2011 vintage would be a good choice thanks to its bracing acidity, which provided both structure and the ability to keep the wine together with age.

    With grapes sourced from one of the estate’s top blocks, these approximately three acres got their name when Susan decided to fence off a few acres of Riesling and have some geese do the weeding. Unfortunately, it turned out that these geese weren’t interested in the job. Accordingly, the family kept one pair of geese and the others found themselves in the Sokol Blosser freezer, while the feathers found their way into some very fluffy pillows.

    Image courtesy of the winery.

    Looking ahead to the next 50 years, Alison and Alex are focused on a continued commitment to quality along with a focus on innovation.  The winery has begun to offer box wines and has made a substantial investment in a mechanical harvester, noting that the technology has come so far; there is no loss of quality despite the mechanization. Further, as a Certified B Corporation since 2015, they also maintain a deft balance between purpose and profit.

    Of course, more immediately, they are simply excited to open the tasting room again as we shift to a post-vaccine world.

    Finally, there are eight members of the third generation, so watch this space…

    As Alison reflected, they have succeeded through a combination of miracles and hard work, which has been an astounding experience. And, as Alex quipped at the end, “Mom and Dad, you done good!”

    Cantina Valle Isarco celebrates 60 years and looks forward to an even brighter future

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    Cantina Valle Isarco celebrates its 60th anniversary this year, but the winery is not resting on its laurels. Far from it. Rather, while it acknowledges its roots, it is looking to the future to further increase its quality. Among these efforts, the Cantina has recently revamped its logo and branding and hired a new consulting enologist.

    Representing 135 families, this highly regarded cooperative is situated in the Valle Isarco, a subzone of Alto Adige and Italy’s northernmost winegrowing area. Here, in the heart of the Dolomites, vines are grown at 300-1,000 meters above sea level, on very steep slopes with a 60% gradient. Consequently, grapes must be hand harvested, resulting in a very labor-intensive production process.

    Moreover, the high altitudes offer up very cold nights and cold winds, along with a wide diurnal variation, further adding to the challenges of harvest, which takes place from September through mid-October. This is not an easy task. But the benefits to such intense growing conditions are evident in the style of wines produced. Specifically, the small berry size (a consequence of the high altitude) yields wines with high concentration of flavor, while the cool climate maintains good acidity and salinity in the grapes. Overall, the wines are fresh, clean and clear with an acidic character. And this bright acidity remains even with aging.

    As a very small wine region, Alto Adige accounts for only 0.8% of all Italian wine production with a total of 400 hectares planted. Of those, Cantina Valle Isarco is responsible for 150 of them. Most of these are small vineyards surrounding the homes of the individual members. While the vineyards are not certified organic, it is here that the children play in their respective backyards, running around through the vines. Accordingly, intervention is minimal and viticulture is as sustainable as possible.

    Their vineyards are planted to 14 different grape varieties: 10 white varieties, totaling 98% of the winery’s production with the remaining 2% planted to four red varieties. Not surprisingly, given the region’s proximity to Germany and Austria, Alto Adige’s viticulture is heavily influenced by these two countries, especially in grape varieties grown, such as Kerner and Sylvaner. From those 14 varieties, Cantina Valle Isarco produces 28 different wines, among its Classic (entry level) and Premium ranges.

    The premium wines include Aristos and Sabiona. More specifically, while Hannes Munter, resident enologist, manages all of the producers, for the Aristos wines, he pays closer attention with the selection. The Sabiona wines are produced from two single vineyards planted within the walls of the local monastery.

    Among its past accomplishments, Cantina Valle Isarco rebuilt its winery 15 years ago, making considerable investments in technology and its wines continue to garner accolades (its Aristos Kerner was named a Top 20 Wine of the Year in 2016 by Decanter magazine). Yet, the young team, which includes Munter and General Manager, Armin Gratl, knew that they wanted to make significant splash as they celebrated this important milestone.

    The new logo, which was launched with the 2020 vintage, gives more focus to the name of the valley with mountain and diamond imagery, and the new labels are clearer and easier to read. But, the more innovative move was the winery’s decision to collaborate with noted enologist Ricardo Cotarella. Gratl explained their choice in Cotarella, explaining that they wanted to bring in someone with an outside view and lots of experience, as well as someone with the same ambitions they have for the region.

    When asked why he was interested in taking on this new consultancy, Ricardo Cotarella relished the opportunity presented to him, citing both his excitement at getting to work in the region for the first time and the challenge of improving the quality of wines that are already very good. He also looked forward to partnering with Armin and Hannes.

    Moreover, he was also fascinated by the idea of working with Kerner, a grape he had only previously experienced in Japan. He admitted that, “A winemaker shouldn’t say ‘This is my favorite wine;” only the customer can make that declaration. But, he and Hannes really like the Kerner 2020 and, in fact, Cotarella confessed “I am falling in love with this varietal.”

    A virtual seminar was held with members of the press and trade in mid-February, featuring six wines.  For the tasting, participants were presented with a study in two grapes, exploring different vintages, selections and microclimates. Starting with the Classic Kerner, we next tasted the Aristos and Sabiona versions before turning our attention to the analogous Sylvaner wines.

    Interestingly, both of the Sabiona wines and the Aristos Sylvaner had spent some time in tonneaux, but it was with a light-handed approach to oak that added depth and elegance rather than an overtly woody flavor to the wines. In this regard, Cotarella made it clear that he uses wood in, not on the wine. Additionally, it depends on the vintage, adding that, “Oak is an opportunity, not a rule,” and he only uses it when the wine deserves the oak. With his “crush” on the Kerner 2020, he expects to treat the Aristos and Sabiona Kerner 2020 wines to some oak.

    So what else does the future hold? Cotarella acknowledged that the wines of Cantina Valle Isaro from yesterday were excellent; its wines from today are excellent. As he mused on next steps, he noted that he was very optimistic. “We have everything – the climate, soil, people, grapes and technology in the winery,” he said. “I am not sure what the improvement will be, but be patient, this is my promise.” These are already extraordinary wines; I am sure our patience will be well rewarded.

    Cantina Valle Isarco Kerner 2020, Alto Adige, Italy
    Overall Impressions : Fresh, exotic spice and good fruit.
    Tasting Note: Dry, with high acidity, medium body, aromas and flavors of apple, salinity, minerality, floral, plum, spice and very long length.

    Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Kerner 2019, Alto Adige, Italy
    Overall Impressions: A richer expression of the variety with fuller body.
    Tasting Note: An intense nose of apple, quince, pear, with full body, high acidity and very long length.

    Cantina Valle Isarco Sabiona Kerner 2018, Alto Adige, Italy
    Overall     Impressions: An elegant and complex wine, with careful use of oak.
    Tasting Note: Light oak and smoke on nose, with bright acidity, medium+ body, very mineral, with richness and long length.

    Cantina Valle Isarco Sylvaner 2020, Alto Adige, Italy
    Overall     Impressions: Fresh and clean with a purity of fruit.
    Tasting Note: Aromas of rich fruit, quince, green apple greet the nose joined by minerality and freshness on the medium-bodied palate with long length.

    Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Sylvaner 2019, Alto Adige, Italy
    Overall Impressions: Richer, with more concentration and complexity.
    Tasting Note: Less ripe fruit on nose, with peaches, minerality and salinity, along with
    high acidity, medium+ body and long length.

    Cantina Valle Isarco Sabiona Sylvaner 2018, Alto Adige, Italy
    Overall Impressions    : Elegant depth and concentration due to oak and age.
    Tasting Note: Showing nice development, with high acidity and medium+ body and notes of apricot, salinity and a candied note in finish, culminating in very long length.


    Winery, vineyard and principal images courtesy of Cantina Valle Isarco.