Category Archives: Tasting Notes

You say Garnacha, I say Grenache

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Whether you call it Garnacha or Grenache, this great grape is finally getting the recognition it deserves! Last week, in a very special campaign – the first time that two countries are collaborating in the promotion of wine – a unique dinner featuring the wines of Grenache & Garnacha was held at La Nacional Restaurant. The restaurant is operated under the auspices of the Spanish Benevolent Society, first established in 1868 to “promote, encourage and spread the spirit of fraternity and solidarity among Spanish and Hispanic-American residents of this country.”

Although the society’s role has morphed over the years as the Spanish immigrant population has declined, it still exists in the promotion of Spanish culture. To this end, most recently, they have taken back its space to launch a public restaurant, bringing top chefs from Spain to create authentic Spanish meals. And, it was the perfect setting in which to enjoy these wonderful wines.

Among the oldest grape varieties in the world, Grenache (aka Garnacha) is the second most planted red variety in the world. Within the Garnacha grape family, there are actually four different grapes: red, grey, white and velvet. First grown in the Spanish Kingdom of Aragon, Garnacha thrives in the hot and dry climate, suitable for dry farming. Given its ability to do so well in harsh conditions – it is wind resistant, drought resistant, disease resistent and does well in acidic soils – Garnacha has been hailed as one of the most eco-friendly grapes in the world. Interestingly, with the grape’s sensitivity to soil types, it is often referred to as the Pinot Noir of Spain.

Today, 97% of Garnacha vines are found in just two countries: France and Spain. Between the two countries, the majority of the vineyards are located within the adjacent areas of Calatyud, Campo de Borja, Carinena, Somontano, Terra Alta and Roussillon. Yet despite the relatively compact area, the grapes produce a wide range of styles, showcasing the diversity of the variety. In this regard, Grenache produces: sparkling and still wines; light-bodied and full-bodied whites; roses; light-bodied and full-bodied reds; and fortified sweet wines. Additionally, today, many old vines still exist, creating rich, concentrated wines. Moreover, the focus has shifted away from the use of small, new oak barrels to older and larger oak vessels that impart less overt oak flavor and aromas to the resulting wines.

Over the course of our dinner, we had the great opportunity to sample delicious food paired with five beautifully made Garnacha and Grenache wines, illustrating their pleasure-inducing and food-friendly nature.

TASTING NOTES

Las Moradas de San Martin, Senda 2014, Vinos de Madrid, Spain, $14.00
Under the direction of a female winemaker, Las Moradas de San Martin is working toward receiving organic viticulture status and is home to 190 year old vines. This wine is 100% red Garnacha, with notes of cherry, plum, spice, a slight tannic grip, long length and a slight oxidative note.
Paired with a selection of Spanish cheeses.

Domaine Gardies, Clos des Vignes 2015, Cotes du Roussillon, France, $33.00
This 5th generation family estate boasts old vines, including the 75 year old vines grown on chalky soils that produced this wine. It is a blend of 60% white Grenache, 35% grey Grenache and 5% Macabeu and Roussanne, vinified in and then aged in large, old, wood vessels for one year before release. Beautifully complex with aromas of floral, acacia, anisette, fennel, wood and a hint of oxidation, along with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, flavors of citrus, stone in finish, culminating in long length. Ageworthy.
Paired with Octopus.

Bodegas San Valero Particular Old Vine 2015 Carinena, Spain, $15.00
Bodeas San Valero is a co-op, which is starting to do some single vineyard wines. The grapes for this wine were grown at 650 meters in altitude, in limestone and chalky soils, that are very stony. These rocks hold heat at night, helping to aid in the vine’s ripening.
An intense nose of red fruit, on the palate the wine offers up spice, slight tannic grip, ripe red fruit, wild berries, with long length. 100% Garnacha; aged three months in oak.
Paired with Grilled Lamb Chops – a very traditional pairing.

Bodegas Paniza (highest village in the appellation) Vinas Viejas de Paniza Garnarcha 2016, Carinena, Spain, $12.00
Produced from 100% Garnacha, on slate soils and grey schist at a high altitude, this wine spends six months in oak. It is very fresh, with herbal aromas and flavors, dark red and black fruit, good acidity, medium tannins and long length.
Paired with Chorizo and Bechamel Croquettes.

Les Vignerons de Constance & Terrassous Hors d’Age 12 Ans, Rivesaltes Ambre, Roussillon, France, $30.00
A fortified dessert wine produced from 40-year-old, white Grenache vines, this wine has a slight oxidative note, with rich and complex flavors of apricot, caramel and spice, joined with good acidity, structure and long length.
Paired with Chocolate Mousse and Blood Orange Gelato.

Donnachiara and the Resilience of Wine

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Ilaria Petitto, CEO of Donnachiara

It is a challenge to grow grapes and make wine. Fortunately, the Campanian people are a resilient bunch. They have continually overcome volcanoes, earthquakes and economic hardship. In particular, the word resilience holds significant meaning for Ilaria Petitto, CEO of Donnachiara winery. She heard it numerous times growing up in connection with her family’s metalwork business (the resilience of steel). The term is also apt given the resilience of the local people and, more currently, she is applying it to the potential for Falanghina to become well known and well respected, as Grillo has now become in Sicily. Accordingly, her flagship Falanghina is called Resilienza.

Established in 2005 by Chiara Petitto (Ilara’s mother), Donnachiara was named for her aunt Chiara Mazzarelli Petitto, who instilled a love of the land in her and was the inspiration for starting her own winery in 2005. As the Petitto family has been in the region for more than 5 generations, cultivating vineyards and making wine, this was a natural progression for the family.

From the very beginning, Donnachiara has been focused on crafting high quality wines from local grapes, which is apropos of a winery situated in Campania on Italy’s Southwestern coast. Despite perhaps being better known for the Amalfi Coast, Neapolitan pizza and Pompeii, Campania stands out as having the most indigenous (local) grape varieties of all of Italy’s wine regions. Grapes such as Fiano, Greco and Aglianico are not only cultivated, but celebrated, taking center stage in the region’s highest denominations.

For Ilaria, it is Falanghina that she wishes to next elevate and believes that the vines grown in Benevento provide the best expression of the grape. This white variety most frequently display citrus, floral and herbal notes, along with medium body and bright acidity, And, while less structured than the more vaunted Greco and Fiano, Ilaria, in collaboration with Donnachiara’s consultant winemaker, Riccardo Cotarella, is confident that it has the potential to create wines of distinction.

Regionally, the majority of vineyards are primarily situated along the interior border of Campania, where the elevation and distance from the coastline keep the climate cool and green. Accordingly, harvest takes place from October through November while winemakers wait for the grapes to reach full ripeness. And, within this area, there are three DOCGs: Fiano d’Avellino, Greco di Tufo and Taurasi that reflect the region’s top wines. It is here that the Donnachiara winery is located, with an average vineyard elevation of 600 meters above sea level.

Although a handful of larger wineries dominate the vinous landscape, most wineries in Campania are small. This preponderance of tiny ventures makes it challenging to find common ground and promote the region as a whole, but with her recent appointment to the Consorzio, Ilaria is hoping to change that in time. As a medium-sized winery (180,000 bottles annually), Donnachiara has some leverage to make its name in the market, but Ilaria recognizes that they will all be more successful if they can promote Campania as a single brand. Thankfully, she has the resilience to persevere!

TASTING NOTES
Falanghina 2017, Beneventano Falanghina IGT, Campania, Italy
Aromas of pear and lanolin; dry, rich and concentrated, with medium acidity, full body and long length.

Fiano 2017, Fiano di Avellino DOCG, Campania, Italy
Bright, fresh, with a slight nuttiness, lovely citrus and minerality, culminating in long length.

Empatia 2017, Fiano d’Avellino DOCG, Campania, Italy
This organically produced Fiano was very aromatic and extremely floral, with fresh acidity, stone fruit, wet stone and long length.

Alatheia 2017, Greco di Tufo DOCG, Campania, Italy
This was very structural, with citrus and almond notes, medium acidity and long length.

Greco Riserva 2017, Campania, Italy
Having spent more time aging before release, this Greco was more concentrated, with yeasty aromas and fuller body. The Greco di Tufo Riserva will soon be approved as an addition to the DOCG.

Resilienza 2016, Beneventano Falanghina IGT, Campania, Italy
Showing some development on both the nose and palate, this wine displays minerality, medium acidity, richness, lanolin, white flowers and apricot, with long length.

All of the Donnachiara Taurasi wines are produced in a very elegant style, with resolved tannins and ready to be enjoyed upon release, although they certainly have the potential to age.
Taurasi 2015, Taurasi DOCG, Campania, Italy
Hailing from the excellent 2015 vintage, this wine offers up floral and black cherry aromas with soft tannins, an earthy undercurrent and long length.

Taurasi 2013, Taurasi DOCG, Campania, Italy
The 2013 vintage was a more challenging one, with lots of rain. Yet despite the less than stellar conditions, the wine is lovely with ripe red fruit, good acidity and long length.

Taurasi Riserva 2012, Taurasi Riserva DOCG, Campania, Italy
Only made in select years, the Riserva spent 24 months aging in oak. It displayed darker fruit and a more overt oak influence on both the nose and palate. The vintage was great, but warmer than usual.

Terlato’s CRU Collection: A Circle of Burgundian Friends

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Like many people in the wine industry, John Terlato, Vice Chairman of Terlato Wines, is passionate about Burgundy. When Terlato Wines initially purchased Sanford Winery and its vineyards in Santa Barbara, California in 2002, John was strongly advised to look to Burgundy for information and inspiration as they embarked on this new Chardonnay and Pinot Noir venture.

He took the advice to heart and traveled to Burgundy in search of great wine. Of course, he was not disappointed, but, equally important, he discovered great people. He returned to the U.S. not only with new knowledge that he was able to impart at Sanford, but also with a circle of new friends.

Over time, these friendships have continued to grow and blossom and it is from this collection of great people that John has now assembled a collection of world-class Burgundy wines, which he is importing under Terlato Wines’ CRU Selections division. The portfolio includes an impressive array of Who’s Who in Burgundy, but John stresses that he wants to work with friends, not all Burgundy producers.

And, such friendships have also resulted in joint projects such as the wine he recently made with Chateau de la Tour at Sanford Winery, bringing together California Pinot Noir, with Burgundian expertise. He enjoyed the project very much and admits that the experience will influence the way he does things going forward, since it is difficult to ignore what you have learned.

Among other things that John has gleaned from his Burgundian friends is the concept that vines can be classified as either introverts or extroverts and, by understanding which vines are which, one can best manage the vines to produce their highest quality. Accordingly, extroverted vines need more attention, while introverted vines should be left alone. He has since adopted this philosophy to other vines, which compliments his focus on making wines of place instead of wines of taste.

John himself is an extrovert, which comes across in his warm, generous approach to life and to people. But, he doesn’t want to interact just for the sake of interacting; in his words, “the ideal dinner party is made up of more than the [three] Graces and less than the [nine] Muses,” giving him the opportunity to have meaningful conversations with a variety of people over the course of a delicious meal and a glass of wine.

Terlato recently hosted a tasting of a subset of the Cru Selections portfolio, including: Domaine Michel Niellon, Chateau de la Tour, Domaine Pierre Label and Domaine Ramonet. It was truly an impressive tasting and an absolute treat to taste some of these very limited wines. And a welcome reminder as to why people are so passionate about Burgundy!

NB: If you would like to get to know John Terlato even better, why not join him on a cruise this December?

TASTING NOTES

Domaine Michel Niellon
This fourth-generation family affair is located in Chassagne-Montrachet and produces the full range of wines from the basic Bourgogne appellation to Grand Crus, including Chevalier-Montrachet. The vineyards are managed using sustainable agriculture.

*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Champgains” 2016
Rich, lovely, apple, woody, full bodied, long length.

*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Clos de la Maltroie” 2016
Mineral, wet stone, fresh, mineral, apple, toothpick, very long length.

*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Vergers” 2006
Developing, rich, full body, mineral, caramel, waxy, peach, long length.

Chateau de la Tour
Established in 1889 and situated in Vougeot, Chateau de la Tour is presently the largest landowner of the Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru, with a holding of 15 acres. The vines are farmed organically and the wines are aged in custom barrels. The estate’s Clos-Vougeot wines are typically produced from vineyards that average 65 years old, while those under the Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes (old vines) label are made from vines of a minimum of 100 years old.

*Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2015
Intense and concentrated fruit, cherry, herbs, earth, very long length.

*Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2007
Floral, red fruit, earthy and herbal, long length.

Domaine Pierre Labet
This domaine dates back to the 15th century with its headquarters built on the battlements surrounding the city of Beaune. The Labet family itself also has a long history in the region, having been in Beaune for 500 years. The family’s holdings include 25 acres spread throughout different appellations, with all of the vineyards farmed organically since 1992.

*Beaune “Clos du Dessus des Marconnets” 2015
Lovely nose, spice, apple, full body, medium acidity, good length.

*Meursault “Les Tillets” 2015
Mineral, green apple, toothpick, nuts, rich and round, long length.

*Beaune “Clos du Dessus des Marconnets” 2015
Ripe, rich, fresh, herbal, cherry, wood, long length.

*Gevry-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2015
Ripe berry, cherry, herbal, earthy, fruit on palate, bright acidity, woody finish, long length.

Domaine Ramonet
The Ramonet family settled in Burgundy in the 19th century and it was Pierre Ramonet, grandfather to the current owner, Jean-Claude, who established the (now vaunted) domaine in 1935. While Domaine Ramonet produces both red and white wines, it is most known for its top Chadonnays. Today, Jean-Claud is joined in the business by his daughters Anne-France and Clarisse.

*Bougogne Aligote 2016
Beautifully fresh, round, soft ripe pear/peach, pith, slight tropical, long length.

*Puligny-Montrachet 2016
Slight nuttiness, apple, wood, nuts, rich and round, slight buttery note, long length.

*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Boudriotte” 2016
Woody and apple on the nose, fresh, elegant and rich on the palate with apple, woodiness lingers in finish, long length.

*Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Ruchottes” 2014
Green apple, hint of oak, fresh acidity, full body, VERY long length.

*Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet 2001
Caramel, apple custard, good acidity, full body, caramel, butter, very long length.
Wow!

The Wines of Rioja: Something for Everyone

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Among Spain’s most vaunted wines, Rioja wines offer up “something for everyone.” And, while that phrase comes straight from the “Rioja 101” brochure I received at a recent Rioja tasting, I believe it to be much more than marketing hype. The wines are produced as white, red, or rosé, covering the full (wine) color spectrum, as well as in a range of styles.

White wines primarily feature local grape varieties such as Viura, Garnacha Blanca and Verdejo, while rosés are generally made from Garnacha or Tempranillo. The red wines may be produced from one or more of the following varieties: Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo. Aside from the differing blends, the wines vary based on length of aging and use (or lack thereof) of wood vessels.

In particular, wines that spend long aging in wood — typically American oak — qualify for specific labeling terms based on the Rioja regulations. Specifically, non-oaked/unaged wines carry no additional terminology on the label. Those wines bearing the designation “Crianza” have been aged for at least three years with one in cask. Reserva wines spend three years aging with one in wood and then an additional six months in bottle. Grand Reserva wines, usually only produced in top vintages, spend a minimum of five years aging with two of those in oak and an additional two in bottle before release. As minimums, winemakers are permitted to exceed these regulations and often do. Whites and rosés follow similar, but shorter, aging regimens within each aging category.

What this means for you, as a consumer, is that you will find a variety of Rioja options depending upon your palate and other preferences. In general, the unoaked wines will be fresher, more fruit forward and potentially more simple, but equally delicious. Conversely, the longer aged wines typically offer oaky/woody notes, often accompanied by notes of vanilla and spice, along with more robust flavor characteristics with firmer tannins and less fruit, but still remain fresh.

More recently, several new zone classifications have been created and now don labels as well. Vino de Zona permits wines that are produced exclusively in one of the three zones (Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental) to designate this on the label. Similarly, wines from a particular village or town (Vino de Municipio) may bear that name if nearly all of the grapes come from that particular area. And finally, Vinedo Singular is a new term used for wines produced from single vineyard that is at least 35 years old and must meet other quality requirements.

At the tasting mentioned above, I had the opportunity to taste among whites, rosés and reds from a variety of different producers and, not surprisingly, found numerous wines to enjoy. In addition to their food friendly versatility, Riojas are also well priced, particularly among older wines and offer good value. So, the next time you are looking for great wine, look no further than Rioja. You’re sure to find something for everyone!

[For additional information on Rioja, please see my previous stories on CVNE, Bodegas Beronia and Vintae.]

Among my favorites of the tasting were:
CVNE Monopole Rioja Blanco 2017, Rioja, Spain, $15 – rich, full-bodied and complex with long length.

Muriel Fincas de la Villa Blanco 2017, Rioja, Spain, $15 – fresh, with citrus and pear notes.

Faustino VII Rioja Rosado 2018, Rioja, Spain, $11 – slight floral nose with notes of under-ripe strawberries.

Palacios Remondo La Vendimia Rioja 2016, Rioja, Spain, $16 – beautiful nose, with balanced, ripe fruit and long length.

Bodegas Taron Taron Reserva 2006, Rioja, Spain, $18 – well integrated tannins, herbal and floral notes, with rich concentrated fruit and a slight balsamic character.

Bodegas Olarra, Cerro Anon Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja, Spain, $17 – tart, berries, spice and wood, concentrated, long length.

Bodegas Campillo Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja, Spain, $35 – Produced by the daughter of Faustino, fresh with lots of herbaceous notes, long length.

Faustino Barrel Select Gran Reserva 2001, Rioja, Spain, $50 – beautifully complex nose, spice, fruit, herbs, stunning, long length.

Colome’s winemaker is living the impossible dream

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Born, raised and educated in Burgundy, Thibaut Delmotte launched his wine career doing three harvests each in Burgundy and Bordeaux before taking a year off to travel throughout South America. He booked an open ticket, headed to Buenos Aires and visited Argentina, Chile and Brazil, eventually finding himself somewhat settled in Salta teaching French at the local Alliance Française.

When a new acquaintance discovered his background as a winemaker she told him about a high elevation vineyard north of the city. He didn’t believe it was possible to grow vines at such an altitude but was intrigued enough to secure an appointment with the man behind the project: Donald Hess.

Thibaut and Donald arranged to meet at the property at 9:00 AM, which required Thibault to depart Salta at 5:00 AM. By 6:00 AM, the pavement gave way to gravel as he snaked his way up the mountain. By 9:00 AM, there was no sign of life and he was beginning to think that he had been punked. Soon he came to a small village and was assured that he was close to his destination. Another 40 minutes of driving brought him face to face with the tall, Swiss gentleman who promptly laughed at seeing the small, compact rental car in which Thibault had made the journey.

Still disbelieving, Thibaut permitted Donald to give him a tour of the mountainous property, which was barren desert – more suited to cacti than Cabernet. Then, he saw the eight hectares of pre-phylloxera vines and was duly impressed.

Hess spoke about his grand plans for multiple vineyards and a large capacity winery. Thibaut was excited about the opportunity, but readily admitted to his lack of experience to take on such a project. Undeterred, Donald continued with the tour and invited Thibaut to lunch that afternoon. But, before the meal, he was to take part in a blind tasting during which he was asked to taste and rank 10 wines in order of his preference. It was the ultimate job interview! When Thibaut’s least favorite wine was revealed to be the Colome Malbec Reserva he was certain he had blown his chance, but Donald appreciated his feedback as to why the French-born and bred winemaker didn’t find the overt/powerful wine to his liking. Hess offered him the job on the condition that he commit to the post for at least three years. That was fifteen years ago.

In the early years, the emphasis was on building the new winery, developing the vineyards and, equally important, investing in the local village to upgrade its infrastructure, increase its access to education and solve social ills such as alcoholism and teen pregnancy. It was also necessary to create own electricity

Despite its initial rusticity, the Colome property itself dates to 1831, when it was established by the Isasmendi-Dávalos family. It remained in the Dávalos family until 2001, when Hess was finally able to purchase the property. Hess himself was first acquainted with Colome and its potential while visiting his great aunt in Buenos Aires several years prior and had the opportunity to taste an old bottle of its wine.

In addition to the state-of-the-art winery, Colome’s estate is home to the James Turrell Museum. Turrell is a California-based, light and space artist, whose experiential installations defy explanation. To get a better sense of his art, please see: http://www.bodegacolome.com/museo/?lang=en  The winery attracts 8,000 visitors each year who usually spend half a day tasting wine and visiting the museum. A nine-room hotel is also available on the estate for those who wish to stay over.

More recently, the focus has been on two special projects: Autentico and Altura Maxima (maximum height). The Autentico project relies on doing things the “old way.” In this regard, the best blocks of 100 year+ vines are still trained using the pergola system, watered with flood (instead of drip) irrigation, treated without chemicals and generally approached with a low intervention philosophy. This approach continues in the winery, where the use of oak is eschewed in favor of showing the true (authentic) wine in the glass, uncovered by wood aromas and flavors.

At a height of 3,111 meters (10,200 feet) in altitude, Altura Maxima is the highest vineyard in the world (although a recently planted plot in Tibet threatens to take this title away). It was initially planted in 2007 to Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as Malbec. Given the elevation, the vines receive more ultraviolet light, forcing them to develop thicker skins on the grapes. This ultimately produces wines with more structure and concentration, while the 25 degree diurnal difference ensures that the wines retain high levels of acidity and elegance. All of this comes at a price; the very extreme conditions mean that wasps, donkeys and frost are all threats to the fruit. Thus, the vineyard only yields a small production of grapes (4 kilos per hectare compared to 7 kilos per hectare).

TASTING NOTES
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is IMG_20181118_191526_076-1024x1024.jpgColome Autentico 2017, Salta, Argentina, $on-premise only
This 100% Malbec is deep purple in color with intense aromas of wood, plum, black fruit. The dry palate displays very ripe blackberry and blueberry joined by floral and spice, with firm, ripe tannins, full body and medium+ length. It is released young, but can age five to seven years.

Colome Altura Maxima 2014, Salta, Argentina, $125.00
Also 100% Malbec, this wine spends 23 months in old oak and one year in bottle before release. It is a very floral Malbec with fine grained tannins.

All I Want for Christmas: Papapietro Perry Pinot

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Regardless of which winter holidays you do or don’t celebrate, who doesn’t want to be on the receiving end of presents? So, with that in mind, I am starting a list just in case anyone wants to know what to get me. First up, Pinot Noir from Papapietro Perry!

I first became acquainted with Papapietro Perry Winery back in 2008 when I compiled a lengthy list of Sonoma County producers to potentially visit for our upcoming trip. We would be in Sonoma for an extended weekend (Thursday through Tuesday), first to attend the very first Wine Bloggers’ Conference and then to enjoy a few days tasting and touring throughout the county.

We had arranged to meet our San Francisco-based friends, Peter and Nicole, for the day and set off in pursuit of Pinot. With our focus on Healdsburg, that day included visits to Ridge, Seghesio and Papapietro Perry. Well-known and respected for their Pinot and Zinfandel, Papapietro Perry had ended up on the list thanks to the favorable reviews they garnered in Wine Spectator magazine (and continue to receive in that and in other publications).

The winemakers behind the label are Bruce Perry and Ben Papapietro. With their mutual love of food and wine, the two friends began making wine together in a shared pursuit of Pinot Noir. Starting in Ben’s San Francisco garage back in 1980s, their homemade attempts turned out to be quite good, eventually permitting them to quit their “day jobs” to pursue wine full-time. And, keeping it all in the family, they are joined by their wives, Renae Perry (who is responsible for winery operations) and Yolanda Papapietro (who handles distribution).

During our 2008 visit, I was very impressed with the wines, tasting two Pinots (Charles Vineyard ~ Anderson Valley and Leras Family Vineyards ~ Russian River Valley) and two Zins (both from the Russian River Valley). So, it was a pleasure to reacquaint myself with Papapietro Perry wine again more recently. Trust me, if someone gifts you their wines, you will not be unhappy!

TASTING NOTE
Papapietro Perry Pinot Noir Nunes Vineyard 2016 Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $60.00
This 100% Pinot Noir wine spent 11 months in French oak, 50% of which was new and 50% of which was 1 and 2 years old. Pale garnet with a paler rim, typical of Pinot Noir, this wine offered up spice, earth and cherry aromas. It was dry, with bright acidity, fresh cherries and raspberries, spice, a slight woody note, and an undercurrent of earthiness on the medium-bodied palate, culminating in very long length. A truly beautiful wine.

 

You Can Go Home Again: A Visit to Macari Vineyards

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They say you can’t go home again, but our visits to the North Fork of Long Island, post-real estate sale, continue to make us feel welcome.  And nowhere was that more apparent than at our former next door neighbor, Macari Vineyards.

Living next door to a winery is great! As I liked to joke when we visited the tasting room with house guests – it was stagger distance. But, all kidding aside, they truly were great neighbors. From the very beginning, the Macari’s were helpful, kind, warm and generous. While most people consider borrowing a cup of sugar from their neighbors in a pinch, we borrowed their winemaking expertise in the form of a chemical analysis of the wine that my husband made with two friends from Macari fruit. Plus, they produce amazing wine, currently under the direction of winemaker Kelly Urbanik Koch.

So, when my husband’s employer decided to do an event on the North Fork, we knew that Macari would figure prominently on the agenda. Upon arrival, the assembled guests (a group of employees, management and advisory board members) were provided with a tour of the winery, followed by a guided tasting with Alexandra Macari in their beautiful, Private Barrel Cellar. Afterward, we enjoyed dinner on the deck, accompanied by an assortment of Macari wines.

All in all, it was a wonderful visit and we definitely felt at home!

TASTING NOTES

Macari Sparkling Pinot Noir Gabriella 2012, $35.00
Named in honor of Alexandra and Joe’s daughter – and an integral part of the Macari team – Gabriela, this effervescent wine offered up aromas of cotton candy, cherries and yeastiness. On the palate, it is dry with medium+ acidity, ripe berries, cream and melon.


Macari Sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon “Horses” (2015 or 2016), $N/A
Unfiltered and cloudy wine due to the minimal intervention used to produce this non-disgorged sparkler, it is named for a vineyard area called horse head bluff because well, it looks like a horse’s head. Pale salmon in color, the wine is slightly off-dry, with slight cherry fruit, strawberry cream and toasted marshmallow on the cleansing palate. It is currently sold out; make sure to catch it next time around.

Macari Sauvignon Blanc “Katherine’s Field” 2016, $24.00
Fermented in 100% stainless steel, this wine displays notes of slight smoke, citrus, and tropical fruit, which persisted on the clean, fresh palate, with a slight spritz and long length.

Macari Sauvignon Blanc Lifeforce (2016), $28.00
In contrast to the Katherine’s Field Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is fermented in concrete egg-shaped tanks yielding an edgier, more structural wine with angularity, heaviness and a fuller body, along with intense acidity (whereas the other SB is softer and rounder).

Macari Chardonnay Reserve 2014, $27.00
This full-bodied white was barrel fermented in two- and three-year old French oak, resulting in aromas and flavors of toothpick, apple and spice, along with medium+ acidity.

Macari Bergen Road 2013, $50.00
This Bordeaux-style wine leads with 51% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Aromas of black cherry, oak, balsamic vinegar, give way to flavors of herbs, earth, oak and spice on the dry, full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.

Macari Alexandra 2010, $85.00
A flagship red blend made only in top vintages, it is primarily produced with Merlot. Compared to the Bergen Road, it presents with darker fruit, smoke, vanilla as well as beautiful dried fruit, dried herbs and resolved tannins on the full-bodied, lush, palate. Only 200 cases were made.

Keeping up with Italian Wines

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With its wealth of wines and wine regions, there is a lot to know about Italian wine! Plus, Italy seems to be in a constant state of flux with regard to rules and regulations as it continually seeks to improve the quality of its production. In October, I attended the Simply Italian Great Wines U.S. Tour 2018, organized by IEEM USA, to get the scoop on a new DOC as well as update my knowledge on Lambrusco. Similarly, some recent press releases have also kept me up-to-date on changes in Piedmont.

 

65 Shades of Grey
At the Simply Italian event, attendees had the opportunity to taste through 65 shades of grey (or more correctly in Italian, grigio). All of the wines were produced from the Pinot Grigio grape variety and were part of the new DOC delle Venezie.  This new denomination was established in 2017, implementing new rules such as lower yields, and elevating Pinot Grigio from IGP status.

One of the largest production areas in all of Europe, the DOC comprises 30,000 hectares spread over three regions. The DOC delle Venezie bills itself as “Italian style Pinot Grigio,” but there is still plenty of room for diversity with wines at the event ranging from still to sparking and one with a hint of color from brief skin contact. Although I tasted through quite a few of the wines on offer, I wisely did not attempt to try all 65. Of the ones I tasted, my favorites included those from Tomassi, Perlage, SalvaTerra and Tre.

The (Un)usual Suspects
Whereas Pinot Grigio is quite well-known in the U.S., Lambrusco is less ubiquitous, but definitely worth knowing about. In a session titled, “Lambrusco D.O.C. & Sangiovese D.O.C.: The Cultural Heritage of the Territory,” Professor Giammario Villa explained that the Emilia Romagna region’s main cultural focus is food, as evidenced by talk about dinner as early as breakfast. This emphasis is likely a result of the Via Emilia Road built by the Roman consults in 187 BCE, which created the hubs of Reggio, Parma, Bologna, all of which are synonymous with food. Vinously, the region has numerous geological differences that have influenced the local wine legislation. The Professor also noted that the region is marked by a preponderance of cooperatives (responsible for 75% of the wines produced), which has kept wine prices relatively inexpensive.

With regard to Lambrusco itself, there are 6 DOCs: Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa and Reggiano within Reggio Emilia and four more in Modena. Wine produced in the more flexible designation of Lambrusco di Modena has been made as early as the middle of the 10th century and currently permits higher yields than the more specific Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce and Lambrusco di Sorbara.

While there are stylistic differences among the various DOCs, in general, Lambrusco is produced via the Charmat Method and the resulting wines typically display high acidity, at least some effervescence, low alcohol and fruity and floral aromas. However, they are more varied with regard to tannins and body/structure.

Coming from the northern part of the region, the wines of Lambrusco di Sorbara are usually quite light in color, while those from Reggiano are deep in color with a lively foam. Located in the central part of the region, with vines grown at a higher altitude, the wines of Lambrusco Grasparosa di Castelvetro hail from the clay soils and hilly slopes and offer up earthy, spicy notes along with more tannin and structure.

Tasting through a selection of these wines, I was reminded just how much I enjoy Lambrusco and wondered why I don’t remember to drink them more often. My tasting notes are included below.

Updates in Piedmont
Within Piedmont, perhaps best-known for Barbaresco and Barolo, attention has been turned to its Barbera variety. Specifically, the Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini del Monferrato has partnered with the Università di Torino – Disafa to conduct a scientific study to create a sensory map of the Barbera d’Asti DOCG appellation. Called Barbera d’Asti 2.0, the focus of this study is to better understand the influence of geological and climatic conditions and how these growing conditions relate to the wine profiles of the wines produced in each area. The study took a year to complete and the results (aka the map) have just been published.

Shining light on another grape variety, the same Consorzio has also received approval to modify the specifications of the Monferrato DOC, which has now been expanded to include two additional DOCs: Monferrato Nebbiolo and Monferrato Nebbiolo Superiore. The new denomination will take effect with the 2019 harvest, with the first wines released into the market in 2020, after the requisite aging periods (12 and 18 months, respectively). The main impetus for this change was to permit producers to include the grape variety on the label. Given that the Monferrato designation by itself has limited consumer recognition, this should give the participating wineries a better opportunity to market their wines.

TASTING NOTES
Cleto Chiarli ‘Vecchia Modena’ Lambrusco NV
Aromas of strawberry greeted the nose. On the palate it was very tart and fresh with underripe strawberry flavors and and long length.

For.Mo.Sa Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOP NV
With deeper, darker red fruits, bright acidity, this was relatively full bodied with good length.

Ca’ Montanari ‘Opera 02’ Lambrusco di Modena DOP NV
Displaying a cocoa note as well as red fruit on nose, this wine was fuller in body, offering up darker fruits and good acidity.

Lombardini ‘Il Signore Campanone’ Lambrusco Reggiano DOP NV
A shier nose with less fruity aromas, this wine was earthy with slight cherry notes on the palate.

 

 

Finding balance at Feudi di San Gregorio

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As with much of life, it is all about achieving balance; finding harmony between two opposing points. Too often, balance is elusive and, perhaps, perfect balance is unattainable. Yet, we would all agree it is a worthy goal. Balance might even be considered laughable in the context of a C-level executive, but that’s precisely what Antonio Capaldo, Chairman of Feudi di San Gregorio, strives to achieve. At a recent dinner, he continually circled back to this word – and to this concept of striking a balance between competing polarities and viewpoints – all to the good of his company and the wines it produces.

Situated within the Italian region of Campania, home to Naples and the Amalfi Coast, Feudi di San Gregorio was established in 1986, although winemaking in the region dates back to the 12th century BCE, influenced by the Greeks, Romans and Byzantines. Capaldo joined the family business in 2009 after a decade-long career in finance and management consulting, having earned a PhD in Economics and Finance from a joint program between London School of Economics and University of Rome. Concurrently, he balanced his time between work and “play”, successfully pursuing his sommelier certification, thus bringing the dual perspectives of business acumen and wine knowledge to his role.

At a production of 3.5 million bottles annually, today, Feudi is the largest winery in Southern Italy, excluding Sicily. Yet, in spite of its size relative to its neighbors, it is still considered to be medium in size. It is this balance between being an artisanal producer and a large corporation, that Capaldo attributes to their success. In this regard, they have the resources to continually learn and evolve and pass that knowledge down to subsequent generations as well as the advantage of being more than one person’s impact or vision. Simultaneously, they are small enough to be nimble and responsive to the market.

Their size has also given them the opportunity to drive quality throughout the region. Having brought in the expertise of Simonit and Sirch, they instituted a pruning school for local growers (Feudi buys 30-40% of its grapes) and have dramatically shifted the way in which they pay them. Specifically, they no longer reward growers for volume, instead paying them based on the quality of the fruit they deliver. In order to do so, they balance the risk and reward, overcoming the growers’ objectives to keeping grapes on the vine longer due to threat of rain or other weather hazards. While this has been an expensive proposition, the quality of the grapes has vastly improved.

Balance is also extremely important when discussing the impact of hospitality at the winery. Capaldo notes that world class hospitality is vital to the winery, especially given its proximity to such tourist destinations as Positano and Pompeii, and it now welcomes 40,000 visitors each year. While many of them come expressly for the wine, others are drawn to the winery’s Michelin-starred restaurant and only later discover that it is connected to the winery. Consequently, while winery tours should extoll the virtues of the winery’s restaurant, world-class architectural design and esteemed collection of artwork, their tour guides must be equally trained (and remember) to speak about the winery and its wines.

Capaldo further underscores the need for balance in the vineyard. When answering a question about sustainable practices, he acknowledges that while they aspire to be organic, the climate makes this impossible to commit to fully. Accordingly, their philosophy is to be sustainable in all things – with a decided emphasis on sustaining the vines themselves. In this regard, he notes that there is often a need to replant every 30 years or so in organically-certified vineyards. With so many historic vines under his purview – Capaldo proudly shared a photo of the 100+ year-old vines in the Serpico vineyard – he feels the duty to preserve vines not just for decades, but for centuries.

Vinously, the winery provides a balance in the 25 or so wines it creates, offering up the popular and approachable Falanghina, alongside the more structured Greco di Tufo and Fiano d’Avellino wines. Capaldo also balances the need to age the reds for long periods of time before release (adding to his expense and the wine’s price) with getting the wines into the market. But, errs on the side of quality, choosing to age his wines longer than the denomination rules require.

Personally, Capaldo admits that balance is hard. He recognizes that he comes from a background of control and is aiming to do a better job of letting go – taking time for family, allowing others to handle various business matters and letting go of the things beyond his control such as vintage variations and their impact on the wines. Watching him during dinner, it is clear that he practices what he preaches, finding a balance in all things: his wife had accompanied him on this trip (and to the dinner), he carefully selected gluten-free options, barely touched his wines and finished his meal with a decadent chocolate dessert!

TASTING NOTES
When we speak of a great glass of wine, we frequently consider the balance between fruit and tannins, between sweetness and acidity and in not having too much oak or alcohol. The wines of Feudi definitely deliver in being well-balanced wines. My tasting notes are a bit sparse from the evening, but it was a pleasure to be reacquainted with these wines I had last tasted in June 2016.

Feudi di San Gregorio Sannio Falanghina DOC 2017, Campania, Italy
Fresh fruit and floral aromas and flavors, with nice acidity, medium body and just generally easy and fun to drink.

Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo DOCG 2017, Campania, Italy
Grown in high elevation vineyards, the fruit is all hand harvested due to the steep terrain. Despite the lack of oak or skin contact, Greco produces structured wines, with limited fruit character and a beautiful ability to pair well at the table. I enjoyed it equally with the fried zucchini as I did with the duck breast.

Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi DOCG 2013, Campania, Italy
This wine spends 18 months in oak with another 9 months in bottle. It displayed lots of bright acidity, with aromas and flavors of cherry, spice and other red fruit, with firm tannins on the full-bodied palate. It was easier to drink than the Riserva 2012 but I would appreciate it more in the future, when the tannins will have had more time to soften (and deeply regretted that I hadn’t ordered a steak for dinner; Capaldo suggests that the best pairing is lamb, but the evening’s menu did not include any).

Feudi di San Gregorio Piano di Montevergine Taurasi Riserva DOCG 2012, Campania, Italy 
With its longer aging requirements, this wine is aged in oak for 18 to 24 months, with an additional 24 months in bottle, the lengthy period of time stabilizing the wine before its release. Not surprisingly, this wine displayed even firmer tannins and more overt use of oak, but was still redolent of beautiful fruit and acidity.

Vintae, in search of Spain’s greatest hits

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Ricardo Arambarri is a man on a mission: scouring Spain for great grapes and sharing them with the world. Fortunately, he seems to have the energy and stamina to do so. In fact, he admitted that his energy is often too much for his girlfriend, so she is thankful that he “lives on the plane,” she can catch up on sleep while he is traveling.

Energy aside, despite being born and raised in the heart of the Rioja wine region, Ricardo’s vinous destiny was not assured. Yes, his family had been tending to their own vineyards in the region for generations, but, Ricardo’s dad, José Miguel Arambarri, detested working in the field and left Logroño in order to pursue a more satisfying career. However, in the late 1990s, José Miguel decided to invest in the family business and returned home to reinvigorate the vineyards.

As a young man, Ricardo, too, was anxious to leave his small town and see the world, studying first in Barcelona and then settling in Texas after graduation. His plan was to eventually move to New York, but as they say, the best laid plans… Unfortunately, José Miguel suffered a stroke (he has since fully recovered), forcing Ricardo to head back to Spain.

But, the upside of that tragedy was that he was inspired to create a company focused on making quality wine in Spain. Now, ten years on, Vintae produces wines in 15 different regions, expanding the portfolio as they explore up-and-coming areas. The company’s overarching philosophy is to show the diversity of Spain, while providing wines that are accessible to consumers, easy to enjoy and drinkable upon release.

With an MBA under his belt, Ricardo serves as CEO and is responsible for the business-side of Vintae’s operations, while his business partner serves as Technical Director, overseeing decisions in the vineyards. As the company continues to collaborate with its various growers, they are particularly driven by a goal of becoming 100% organic in the near future.

Beyond this specific goal, Ricardo and, by extension, Vintae, is firmly focused on the future of Spain and its wines, looking for opportunities to capitalize on its improved quality. In particular, he sees an upsurge in the prestige with Spanish whites, especially those from the Atlantic coastal areas such as Galicia. Consequently, Vintae launched its Atlantis range in 2015, which features whites from these regions. Its Albarino from Rias Baixas is sourced fruit from the sunnier (hence warmer and drier) sub-region of Condado de Tea. The range also includes a Hondarrabi Zuri from Txakoli, Godello from Valdoeras and Treixadura from Ribeiro.

Given the Arambarri’s Rioja heritage, it is not surprising that Rioja figures prominently in the company’s portfolio, with Hacienda Lopez de Haro added as early as 2003. Ricardo refers to these wines as being of the “contemporary classic style,” marrying the classic style of long aging in American oak, with the more fruit forward styles of the 1990s. He further notes that theirs has finesse, elegance and a good balance between fruit and oak, with a preference for aging the wines in used barrels.

Another lesser-known region where Vintae has been particularly active is Toro. This region is situated in Castilla y Leon and is known for its powerful wines produced from the Tempranillo grape, here called Tinta de Toro. Yet, in keeping with Vintae’s vinous aesthetic, they seek to craft wines that are more approachable than traditional Toro. To do so, they harvest early, shorten maceration times and ferment in concrete tanks, resulting in Toro wines that have been accused of being “too Rioja!”

But, if their production of Toro wines is less than conventional, their appreciation for the terroir, its preponderance of pre-phylloxera vines and its hardworking people is no less intense. In homage to the men and women who toil in Toro – which is known for having nine months of winter and three months of hell – their Matsu range (from the Japanese word for “wait”) fondly features photos of local grape growers on its labels.

Not content to conquer Spain, Vintae has also turned its attention to Chile, launching its Kudaw range also in 2015. But, it is clear that Ricardo continues to set his sights on new and novel areas of Spain, so it is likely that Vintae’s Spanish portfolio will grow further in time, fueled by his incessant energy and lots of time on a plane.

TASTING NOTES
Atlantis Albarino 2017, Rias Baixas, Spain, $14.99
This wines displays lovely minerality and a slightly marine character, along with fresh citrus, ripe apple, an unctuous texture and long length.

Bodega Classica Lopez de Haro Reserva 2013, Rioja, Spain, $17.99
Ricardo explained that 2013 was a cold vintage, resulting in lighter style wines, which I found to be a really elegant expression in the glass with aromas and flavors of spice, oak, and strawberry on the dry, medium-bodied palate.

Bodega Classica Lopez de Haro Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja, Spain, $28.99
Hailing from a warmer vintage and the recipient of longer oak aging, this wine offered up darker red fruit, more overt oak, fuller body and a more structured palate.

Matsu El Recio 2016, Toro, Spain, $24.99
Produced from 90- to 100-year old vines, this wine spent 14 months in used French oak barrels. Aromas of spice, black fruit and floral persisted on the palate, with long length.

Matsu El Viego 2015, Toro, Spain, $59.99
This wine is made from a selection of the best grapes from 100+-year-old vineyards. Powerful and intense with black fruit, spice, firm tannins, fresh acidity and full body, culminating in long length.