A few weeks ago, I was about to run out the door to a wine event when I noticed a torn wrapper on the floor. Upon further investigation, I realized that our dog had gotten hold of an unopened chocolate bar and had proceeded to enjoy the taboo treat. Since chocolate is poisonous to canines, I immediately rushed her to the vet who took care of her right away. Thankfully, she has since made a full recovery.
Needless to say, it was a stressful day and that night I very much wanted a glass of wine – a good glass of wine – because life is too short. And, somehow between managing clients and caring for the dog, I felt a bit like I was herding cats.
Or, perhaps, as I reached for the bottle of wine… a lion tamer? I had previously tasted the Hess Collection wines at a luncheon last year and had been quite impressed. Thus, when the opportunity to taste two new releases came up, I pounced (OK, I’m done with the feline puns, I promise).
In any case, the lion has long been associated with the Hess family whose crest proudly features a byzantine-style lion and the animal has always adorned the family’s alcoholic pursuits. It previously graced the labels of the family’s beer business and was then adopted for the winery. More recently, it has been adapted and designed for the label of the “Lion Tamer,” which launched last year and more strongly recalls the history of the original Hess crest.
Not surprisingly, the Hess family motto is “Live Each Day with the Heart and Courage of The Lion.” The lion’s Latin name, Panthera Leo, gives rise to the winery’s newest addition to the Lions Head Luxury Collection. This collection represents the most recent development at Hess, currently under the direction of Donald Hess’ son-in-law Tim Persson, and wife, Sabrina.
Hess Collection Panthera Chardonnay 2016. Russian River Valley, USA, $45.00 This launch release is produced from 100% Chardonnay and was aged in 35% new French oak for 15 months. Slight buttery notes, a hint of oak and vanilla and apple greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is dry, concentrated, rich and ripe, with apple, pear, nuts and butter/creamy flavors. It is medium+-bodied, with medium acidity, good balanced, elegance and long length.
Hess Collection “Lion Tamer” Red Blend 2016, Napa Valley, USA, $45.00 A changing blend, the latest release brings together 40% Malbec, 27% Zinfandel, 21% Petite Sirah, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Mourvèdre, 1% Petite Verdot, 1% Merlot, which has been aged in 40% new French oak for 22 months. Aromas of plum, blackberries, blueberries and vanilla, give way to a full-bodied, dry, rich and ripe palate, with concentrated fruit of mulberry, bright, juicy acidity, ripe tannins and long length.
Life is often about fate. Whether you believe fate is predestined or that you make your own is another story, but it all comes down to series of different choices and their resulting consequences. This is the underpinning of the Story of Esther, which features prominently in the celebration of Purim. The Purim holiday takes its name from the Hebrew word for lots, since the fate of the Jewish people had been sealed by the wicked Haman who had cast lots as to which date their extermination would take place. Fortunately, his plot was foiled by the bravery of Queen Esther, and instead of the Jews being sent to the gallows, it was Haman who met his demise on that fateful day.
With such an emphasis on fate, it was fitting to meet Victor Schoenfeld of Yarden Winery on Purim this month. Thankfully, Victor’s own fate has never been so dire (at least not that I am aware), but it was a series of individual choices that he made that have brought him to his current role and place in the wine industry.
In pursuit of his love of food and the land, Victor first enrolled at UC Santa Cruz to study agriculture and later transferred to UC Davis to pursue a degree in viticulture. It was after spending a year managing a vineyard that convinced him that he needed to expand his knowledge to understand both grape growing and wine making, prompting him to fulfill the degree requirements in the latter as well. His next fateful decision was to accept a three-year contract to work for Yarden Winery, uprooting himself from Glen Ellen, California to the Golan Heights in Israel.
Arriving in 1991, Victor never expected to stay on beyond his initial contract, but today, 28 years later, he still holds the position of Chief Winemaker and is at the helm of 6-person team, all in pursuit of crafting quality wine. Having joined Yarden early on in its creation (the winery was originally established in 1983), Victor has been blessed with an amazing opportunity to truly grow the winery from the ground up. Currently, Yarden is a leader in the Israeli wine industry, making significant investments in research and development that is shaping its winemaking and that of its neighboring wineries.
When Victor first appeared on the scene, little was known about the region, but in the intervening years, he and his colleagues have come to better understand the climate, soils and the best way to grow grapes in the Golan Heights. As a country, Israel is relatively small, but it has a very diverse climate, which significantly impacts grape growing. As Victor notes, the key is to look to elevation to achieve the necessary cooler climate to maintain good acidity and freshness. Accordingly, whites are grown at 3,000-4,000 feet above sea level and reds can be found at an elevation of 2,000 feet. The soils are a combination of volcanic soils and even older mountain soils.
Now that they appreciate the nuances of their terroir, the emphasis is firmly on achieving even ripeness, which they do by carefully planning where the various vines will be planted. This permits them to get a good expression of varietal character. Once the grapes are ready to be picked, their quality control is further aided through hand harvesting and the use of optical sorting, ensuring that only the very best grapes find their way into the wine.
Other areas of exploration undertaken by the winery have focused on ensuring quality rootstocks and vines. In this regard, Yarden has received ENTAV licensing for their own propagation area, growing vines and wood, with the goal of eradicating the country’s problem with leaf roll virus.
Additionally, they received certification from Lodi Rules Sustainable Winegrowing Program for their practices in the vineyard, the first winery outside of California to receive this recognition and a testament to Yarden’s commitment to the environment. This considerable accomplishment is bolstered by the winery’s use of solar power, recycling programs and development of an organic vineyard.
Overall, the various projects have permitted Victor and his team to use high tech tools to measure and understand how to grow great grapes and make excellent wine, such as their creation of a new way to measure vineyard strength. Consequently, they can react to any issues and make corrections as needed. As they continue to discover more about their land and how to best care for it, Victor notes that they are in the middle of a journey and adds that he is excited about what they are doing and learning.
Looking ahead, it is clear that the winery will continue to produce high quality wines that are both age-worthy and worthy of attention. What Victor’s fate will continue to bring, only time will tell, but for now, he continues to lead his team to good fortune and great wine. And, that, is definitely worth celebrating!
TASTING NOTES
Yarden Katzrin Blanc de Blancs late disgorged 2007, $105.99 This Traditional Method sparkling wine spent 10 years on the lees. Fresh with lively acidity, nice perlage, yeasty, toasty and citrus aromas and flavors, with good length.
Yarden Gewurztraminer 2017, $22.99 A pronounced nose of lychee, tropical fruit, spice and jasmine. Dry on the palate, with just a hint of ripeness, good acidity, slight oily texture, long length.
Yarden Chardonnay Odem Organic Vineyard 2016, $22.99 As Victor notes, “Oak is never the point…” of a wine, “It is a tool.” This wine spent 7 months aged in French oak barrels, with the wood well integrated into the wine. Dry, good acidity, good structure, not too heavy, creamy and round on the palate.
Yarden Katzrin Chardonnay 2017, $38.99 This Chardonnay is a blend of several different vineyards, taken from the most concentrated lots. Fresher than the Odem, but with more overt oak due to the lengthier aging (9 months). Still very youthful and will evolve in the bottle with time. Full bodied, apple, spice, angular, long length.
Yarden Merlot 2014, $30.99 Notes of plum, wood, coffee; dry, with ripe fruit, spice and medium tannins, giving way to long length.
Yarden Merlot Odem Organic Vineyard 2014, $105.99 More herbal in character than the previous Merlot. Spice, wood, plum, ripe, firmer tannins with earthy concentration, culminating in long length.
Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, $35.99 As Yarden’s most awarded wine, this iconic Israeli wine is a diplomat for the winery. Beautifully balanced, with black fruit, good acidity, full bodied, firm ripe tannins, can age 15-20 years.
Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon Bar’on Vineyard 2014, $105.99 Aromas and flavors of black berry, slight spice, herbs, it is ripe and fresh, with long length.
Yarden Katzrin 2011, $212.99 A Bordeaux-style blend, this wine is named for the town in which the winery is located. This vintage is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Merlot; more recent vintages include small percentages of Malbec and Petit Verdot. It has been aged for 24 months in French oak barrels. Brooding, menthol, black fruit, showing slight development, intense and concentrated, ripe, yet elegant, herbal, luscious, ripe tannins, with long length.
Yarden T2 2011, $22.50 This fortified, dessert-style wine is a blend of the Portuguese varieties of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao, which took some time to get established in the vineyard. It is aged for 28 months in French oak barrels. It displays a Port-like nose, with concentrated spice, cocoa and red fruit aromas, medium sweet, but beautifully balanced with bright acidity and long length.
Whether you call it Garnacha or Grenache, this great grape is finally getting the recognition it deserves! Last week, in a very special campaign – the first time that two countries are collaborating in the promotion of wine – a unique dinner featuring the wines of Grenache & Garnacha was held at La Nacional Restaurant. The restaurant is operated under the auspices of the Spanish Benevolent Society, first established in 1868 to “promote, encourage and spread the spirit of fraternity and solidarity among Spanish and Hispanic-American residents of this country.”
Although the society’s role has morphed over the years as the Spanish immigrant population has declined, it still exists in the promotion of Spanish culture. To this end, most recently, they have taken back its space to launch a public restaurant, bringing top chefs from Spain to create authentic Spanish meals. And, it was the perfect setting in which to enjoy these wonderful wines.
Among the oldest grape varieties in the world, Grenache (aka Garnacha) is the second most planted red variety in the world. Within the Garnacha grape family, there are actually four different grapes: red, grey, white and velvet. First grown in the Spanish Kingdom of Aragon, Garnacha thrives in the hot and dry climate, suitable for dry farming. Given its ability to do so well in harsh conditions – it is wind resistant, drought resistant, disease resistent and does well in acidic soils – Garnacha has been hailed as one of the most eco-friendly grapes in the world. Interestingly, with the grape’s sensitivity to soil types, it is often referred to as the Pinot Noir of Spain.
Today, 97% of Garnacha vines are found in just two countries: France and Spain. Between the two countries, the majority of the vineyards are located within the adjacent areas of Calatyud, Campo de Borja, Carinena, Somontano, Terra Alta and Roussillon. Yet despite the relatively compact area, the grapes produce a wide range of styles, showcasing the diversity of the variety. In this regard, Grenache produces: sparkling and still wines; light-bodied and full-bodied whites; roses; light-bodied and full-bodied reds; and fortified sweet wines. Additionally, today, many old vines still exist, creating rich, concentrated wines. Moreover, the focus has shifted away from the use of small, new oak barrels to older and larger oak vessels that impart less overt oak flavor and aromas to the resulting wines.
Over the course of our dinner, we had the great opportunity to sample delicious food paired with five beautifully made Garnacha and Grenache wines, illustrating their pleasure-inducing and food-friendly nature.
TASTING NOTES
Las Moradas de San Martin, Senda 2014, Vinos de Madrid, Spain, $14.00 Under the direction of a female winemaker, Las Moradas de San Martin is working toward receiving organic viticulture status and is home to 190 year old vines. This wine is 100% red Garnacha, with notes of cherry, plum, spice, a slight tannic grip, long length and a slight oxidative note. Paired with a selection of Spanish cheeses.
Domaine Gardies, Clos des Vignes 2015, Cotes du Roussillon, France, $33.00 This 5th generation family estate boasts old vines, including the 75 year old vines grown on chalky soils that produced this wine. It is a blend of 60% white Grenache, 35% grey Grenache and 5% Macabeu and Roussanne, vinified in and then aged in large, old, wood vessels for one year before release. Beautifully complex with aromas of floral, acacia, anisette, fennel, wood and a hint of oxidation, along with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, flavors of citrus, stone in finish, culminating in long length. Ageworthy. Paired with Octopus.
Bodegas San Valero Particular Old Vine 2015 Carinena, Spain, $15.00 Bodeas San Valero is a co-op, which is starting to do some single vineyard wines. The grapes for this wine were grown at 650 meters in altitude, in limestone and chalky soils, that are very stony. These rocks hold heat at night, helping to aid in the vine’s ripening. An intense nose of red fruit, on the palate the wine offers up spice, slight tannic grip, ripe red fruit, wild berries, with long length. 100% Garnacha; aged three months in oak. Paired with Grilled Lamb Chops – a very traditional pairing.
Bodegas Paniza (highest village in the appellation) Vinas Viejas de Paniza Garnarcha 2016, Carinena, Spain, $12.00 Produced from 100% Garnacha, on slate soils and grey schist at a high altitude, this wine spends six months in oak. It is very fresh, with herbal aromas and flavors, dark red and black fruit, good acidity, medium tannins and long length. Paired with Chorizo and Bechamel Croquettes.
Les Vignerons de Constance & Terrassous Hors d’Age 12 Ans, Rivesaltes Ambre, Roussillon, France, $30.00 A fortified dessert wine produced from 40-year-old, white Grenache vines, this wine has a slight oxidative note, with rich and complex flavors of apricot, caramel and spice, joined with good acidity, structure and long length. Paired with Chocolate Mousse and Blood Orange Gelato.
It is a challenge to grow grapes and make wine. Fortunately, the Campanian people are a resilient bunch. They have continually overcome volcanoes, earthquakes and economic hardship. In particular, the word resilience holds significant meaning for Ilaria Petitto, CEO of Donnachiara winery. She heard it numerous times growing up in connection with her family’s metalwork business (the resilience of steel). The term is also apt given the resilience of the local people and, more currently, she is applying it to the potential for Falanghina to become well known and well respected, as Grillo has now become in Sicily. Accordingly, her flagship Falanghina is called Resilienza.
Established in 2005 by Chiara Petitto (Ilara’s mother),
Donnachiara was named for her aunt Chiara Mazzarelli Petitto, who instilled a
love of the land in her and was the inspiration for starting her own winery in
2005. As the Petitto family has been in the region for more than 5 generations,
cultivating vineyards and making wine, this was a natural progression for the
family.
From the very beginning, Donnachiara has been focused on crafting high quality wines from local grapes, which is apropos of a winery situated in Campania on Italy’s Southwestern coast. Despite perhaps being better known for the Amalfi Coast, Neapolitan pizza and Pompeii, Campania stands out as having the most indigenous (local) grape varieties of all of Italy’s wine regions. Grapes such as Fiano, Greco and Aglianico are not only cultivated, but celebrated, taking center stage in the region’s highest denominations.
For Ilaria, it is Falanghina that she wishes to next elevate and believes that the vines grown in Benevento provide the best expression of the grape. This white variety most frequently display citrus, floral and herbal notes, along with medium body and bright acidity, And, while less structured than the more vaunted Greco and Fiano, Ilaria, in collaboration with Donnachiara’s consultant winemaker, Riccardo Cotarella, is confident that it has the potential to create wines of distinction.
Regionally, the majority of vineyards are primarily situated along the interior border of Campania, where the elevation and distance from the coastline keep the climate cool and green. Accordingly, harvest takes place from October through November while winemakers wait for the grapes to reach full ripeness. And, within this area, there are three DOCGs: Fiano d’Avellino, Greco di Tufo and Taurasi that reflect the region’s top wines. It is here that the Donnachiara winery is located, with an average vineyard elevation of 600 meters above sea level.
Although a handful of larger wineries dominate the vinous landscape, most wineries in Campania are small. This preponderance of tiny ventures makes it challenging to find common ground and promote the region as a whole, but with her recent appointment to the Consorzio, Ilaria is hoping to change that in time. As a medium-sized winery (180,000 bottles annually), Donnachiara has some leverage to make its name in the market, but Ilaria recognizes that they will all be more successful if they can promote Campania as a single brand. Thankfully, she has the resilience to persevere!
TASTING NOTES Falanghina 2017, Beneventano Falanghina IGT, Campania, Italy Aromas of pear and lanolin; dry, rich and concentrated, with medium acidity, full body and long length.
Fiano 2017, Fiano di Avellino DOCG, Campania, Italy Bright, fresh, with a slight nuttiness, lovely citrus and minerality, culminating in long length.
Empatia 2017, Fiano d’Avellino DOCG, Campania, Italy This organically produced Fiano was very aromatic and extremely floral, with fresh acidity, stone fruit, wet stone and long length.
Alatheia 2017, Greco di Tufo DOCG, Campania, Italy This was very structural, with citrus and almond notes, medium acidity and long length.
Greco Riserva 2017, Campania, Italy Having spent more time aging before release, this Greco was more concentrated, with yeasty aromas and fuller body. The Greco di Tufo Riserva will soon be approved as an addition to the DOCG.
Resilienza 2016, Beneventano Falanghina IGT, Campania, Italy Showing some development on both the nose and palate, this wine displays minerality, medium acidity, richness, lanolin, white flowers and apricot, with long length.
All of the Donnachiara Taurasi wines are produced in a very elegant style, with resolved tannins and ready to be enjoyed upon release, although they certainly have the potential to age. Taurasi 2015, Taurasi DOCG, Campania, Italy Hailing from the excellent 2015 vintage, this wine offers up floral and black cherry aromas with soft tannins, an earthy undercurrent and long length.
Taurasi 2013, Taurasi DOCG, Campania, Italy The 2013 vintage was a more challenging one, with lots of rain. Yet despite the less than stellar conditions, the wine is lovely with ripe red fruit, good acidity and long length.
Taurasi Riserva 2012, Taurasi Riserva DOCG, Campania, Italy Only made in select years, the Riserva spent 24 months aging in oak. It displayed darker fruit and a more overt oak influence on both the nose and palate. The vintage was great, but warmer than usual.
Like many people in the wine industry, John Terlato, Vice Chairman of Terlato Wines, is passionate about Burgundy. When Terlato Wines initially purchased Sanford Winery and its vineyards in Santa Barbara, California in 2002, John was strongly advised to look to Burgundy for information and inspiration as they embarked on this new Chardonnay and Pinot Noir venture.
He took the advice to heart and traveled to Burgundy in search of great wine. Of course, he was not disappointed, but, equally important, he discovered great people. He returned to the U.S. not only with new knowledge that he was able to impart at Sanford, but also with a circle of new friends.
Over time, these friendships have continued to grow and blossom and it is from this collection of great people that John has now assembled a collection of world-class Burgundy wines, which he is importing under Terlato Wines’ CRU Selections division. The portfolio includes an impressive array of Who’s Who in Burgundy, but John stresses that he wants to work with friends, not all Burgundy producers.
And, such friendships have also resulted in joint projects such as the wine he recently made with Chateau de la Tour at Sanford Winery, bringing together California Pinot Noir, with Burgundian expertise. He enjoyed the project very much and admits that the experience will influence the way he does things going forward, since it is difficult to ignore what you have learned.
Among other things that John has gleaned from his Burgundian friends is the concept that vines can be classified as either introverts or extroverts and, by understanding which vines are which, one can best manage the vines to produce their highest quality. Accordingly, extroverted vines need more attention, while introverted vines should be left alone. He has since adopted this philosophy to other vines, which compliments his focus on making wines of place instead of wines of taste.
John himself is an extrovert, which comes across in his warm, generous approach to life and to people. But, he doesn’t want to interact just for the sake of interacting; in his words, “the ideal dinner party is made up of more than the [three] Graces and less than the [nine] Muses,” giving him the opportunity to have meaningful conversations with a variety of people over the course of a delicious meal and a glass of wine.
Terlato recently hosted a tasting of a subset of the Cru Selections portfolio, including: Domaine Michel Niellon, Chateau de la Tour, Domaine Pierre Label and Domaine Ramonet. It was truly an impressive tasting and an absolute treat to taste some of these very limited wines. And a welcome reminder as to why people are so passionate about Burgundy!
NB: If you would like to get to know John Terlato even better, why not join him on a cruise this December?
TASTING NOTES
Domaine Michel Niellon This fourth-generation family affair is located in Chassagne-Montrachet and produces the full range of wines from the basic Bourgogne appellation to Grand Crus, including Chevalier-Montrachet. The vineyards are managed using sustainable agriculture.
*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Champgains” 2016 Rich, lovely, apple, woody, full bodied, long length.
*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Clos de la Maltroie” 2016 Mineral, wet stone, fresh, mineral, apple, toothpick, very long length.
*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Vergers” 2006 Developing, rich, full body, mineral, caramel, waxy, peach, long length.
Chateau de la Tour Established in 1889 and situated in Vougeot, Chateau de la Tour is presently the largest landowner of the Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru, with a holding of 15 acres. The vines are farmed organically and the wines are aged in custom barrels. The estate’s Clos-Vougeot wines are typically produced from vineyards that average 65 years old, while those under the Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes (old vines) label are made from vines of a minimum of 100 years old.
*Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2015 Intense and concentrated fruit, cherry, herbs, earth, very long length.
*Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2007 Floral, red fruit, earthy and herbal, long length.
Domaine Pierre Labet This domaine dates back to the 15th century with its headquarters built on the battlements surrounding the city of Beaune. The Labet family itself also has a long history in the region, having been in Beaune for 500 years. The family’s holdings include 25 acres spread throughout different appellations, with all of the vineyards farmed organically since 1992.
*Beaune “Clos du Dessus des Marconnets” 2015 Lovely nose, spice, apple, full body, medium acidity, good length.
*Meursault “Les Tillets” 2015 Mineral, green apple, toothpick, nuts, rich and round, long length.
*Beaune “Clos du Dessus des Marconnets” 2015 Ripe, rich, fresh, herbal, cherry, wood, long length.
*Gevry-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2015 Ripe berry, cherry, herbal, earthy, fruit on palate, bright acidity, woody finish, long length.
Domaine Ramonet The Ramonet family settled in Burgundy in the 19th century and it was Pierre Ramonet, grandfather to the current owner, Jean-Claude, who established the (now vaunted) domaine in 1935. While Domaine Ramonet produces both red and white wines, it is most known for its top Chadonnays. Today, Jean-Claud is joined in the business by his daughters Anne-France and Clarisse.
*Puligny-Montrachet 2016 Slight nuttiness, apple, wood, nuts, rich and round, slight buttery note, long length.
*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Boudriotte” 2016 Woody and apple on the nose, fresh, elegant and rich on the palate with apple, woodiness lingers in finish, long length.
*Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Ruchottes” 2014 Green apple, hint of oak, fresh acidity, full body, VERY long length.
*Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet 2001 Caramel, apple custard, good acidity, full body, caramel, butter, very long length. Wow!
Among Spain’s most vaunted wines, Rioja wines offer up “something for everyone.” And, while that phrase comes straight from the “Rioja 101” brochure I received at a recent Rioja tasting, I believe it to be much more than marketing hype. The wines are produced as white, red, or rosé, covering the full (wine) color spectrum, as well as in a range of styles.
White wines primarily feature local grape varieties such as Viura, Garnacha Blanca and Verdejo, while rosés are generally made from Garnacha or Tempranillo. The red wines may be produced from one or more of the following varieties: Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo. Aside from the differing blends, the wines vary based on length of aging and use (or lack thereof) of wood vessels.
In particular, wines that spend long aging in wood — typically American oak — qualify for specific labeling terms based on the Rioja regulations. Specifically, non-oaked/unaged wines carry no additional terminology on the label. Those wines bearing the designation “Crianza” have been aged for at least three years with one in cask. Reserva wines spend three years aging with one in wood and then an additional six months in bottle. Grand Reserva wines, usually only produced in top vintages, spend a minimum of five years aging with two of those in oak and an additional two in bottle before release. As minimums, winemakers are permitted to exceed these regulations and often do. Whites and rosés follow similar, but shorter, aging regimens within each aging category.
What this means for you, as a consumer, is that you will find a variety of Rioja options depending upon your palate and other preferences. In general, the unoaked wines will be fresher, more fruit forward and potentially more simple, but equally delicious. Conversely, the longer aged wines typically offer oaky/woody notes, often accompanied by notes of vanilla and spice, along with more robust flavor characteristics with firmer tannins and less fruit, but still remain fresh.
More recently, several new zone classifications have been created and now don labels as well. Vino de Zona permits wines that are produced exclusively in one of the three zones (Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental) to designate this on the label. Similarly, wines from a particular village or town (Vino de Municipio) may bear that name if nearly all of the grapes come from that particular area. And finally, Vinedo Singular is a new term used for wines produced from single vineyard that is at least 35 years old and must meet other quality requirements.
At the tasting mentioned above, I had the opportunity to taste among whites, rosés and reds from a variety of different producers and, not surprisingly, found numerous wines to enjoy. In addition to their food friendly versatility, Riojas are also well priced, particularly among older wines and offer good value. So, the next time you are looking for great wine, look no further than Rioja. You’re sure to find something for everyone!
[For additional information on Rioja, please see my previous stories on CVNE, Bodegas Beronia and Vintae.]
Among my favorites of the tasting were: CVNE Monopole Rioja Blanco 2017, Rioja, Spain, $15 – rich, full-bodied and complex with long length.
Muriel Fincas de la Villa Blanco 2017, Rioja, Spain, $15 – fresh, with citrus and pear notes.
Faustino VII Rioja Rosado 2018, Rioja, Spain, $11 – slight floral nose with notes of under-ripe strawberries.
Palacios Remondo La Vendimia Rioja 2016, Rioja, Spain, $16 – beautiful nose, with balanced, ripe fruit and long length.
Bodegas Taron Taron Reserva 2006, Rioja, Spain, $18 – well integrated tannins, herbal and floral notes, with rich concentrated fruit and a slight balsamic character.
Bodegas Olarra, Cerro Anon Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja, Spain, $17 – tart, berries, spice and wood, concentrated, long length.
Bodegas Campillo Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja, Spain, $35 – Produced by the daughter of Faustino, fresh with lots of herbaceous notes, long length.
Faustino Barrel Select Gran Reserva 2001, Rioja, Spain, $50 – beautifully complex nose, spice, fruit, herbs, stunning, long length.
Born, raised and educated in Burgundy, Thibaut Delmotte launched his wine career doing three harvests each in Burgundy and Bordeaux before taking a year off to travel throughout South America. He booked an open ticket, headed to Buenos Aires and visited Argentina, Chile and Brazil, eventually finding himself somewhat settled in Salta teaching French at the local Alliance Française.
When a new acquaintance discovered his background as a winemaker she told him about a high elevation vineyard north of the city. He didn’t believe it was possible to grow vines at such an altitude but was intrigued enough to secure an appointment with the man behind the project: Donald Hess.
Thibaut and Donald arranged to meet at the property at 9:00 AM, which required Thibault to depart Salta at 5:00 AM. By 6:00 AM, the pavement gave way to gravel as he snaked his way up the mountain. By 9:00 AM, there was no sign of life and he was beginning to think that he had been punked. Soon he came to a small village and was assured that he was close to his destination. Another 40 minutes of driving brought him face to face with the tall, Swiss gentleman who promptly laughed at seeing the small, compact rental car in which Thibault had made the journey.
Still disbelieving, Thibaut permitted Donald to give him a tour of the mountainous property, which was barren desert – more suited to cacti than Cabernet. Then, he saw the eight hectares of pre-phylloxera vines and was duly impressed.
Hess spoke about his grand plans for multiple vineyards and a large capacity winery. Thibaut was excited about the opportunity, but readily admitted to his lack of experience to take on such a project. Undeterred, Donald continued with the tour and invited Thibaut to lunch that afternoon. But, before the meal, he was to take part in a blind tasting during which he was asked to taste and rank 10 wines in order of his preference. It was the ultimate job interview! When Thibaut’s least favorite wine was revealed to be the Colome Malbec Reserva he was certain he had blown his chance, but Donald appreciated his feedback as to why the French-born and bred winemaker didn’t find the overt/powerful wine to his liking. Hess offered him the job on the condition that he commit to the post for at least three years. That was fifteen years ago.
In the early years, the emphasis was on building the new winery, developing the vineyards and, equally important, investing in the local village to upgrade its infrastructure, increase its access to education and solve social ills such as alcoholism and teen pregnancy. It was also necessary to create own electricity
Despite its initial rusticity, the Colome property itself dates to 1831, when it was established by the Isasmendi-Dávalos family. It remained in the Dávalos family until 2001, when Hess was finally able to purchase the property. Hess himself was first acquainted with Colome and its potential while visiting his great aunt in Buenos Aires several years prior and had the opportunity to taste an old bottle of its wine.
In addition to the state-of-the-art winery, Colome’s estate is home to the James Turrell Museum. Turrell is a California-based, light and space artist, whose experiential installations defy explanation. To get a better sense of his art, please see: http://www.bodegacolome.com/museo/?lang=en The winery attracts 8,000 visitors each year who usually spend half a day tasting wine and visiting the museum. A nine-room hotel is also available on the estate for those who wish to stay over.
More recently, the focus has been on two special projects: Autentico and Altura Maxima (maximum height). The Autentico project relies on doing things the “old way.” In this regard, the best blocks of 100 year+ vines are still trained using the pergola system, watered with flood (instead of drip) irrigation, treated without chemicals and generally approached with a low intervention philosophy. This approach continues in the winery, where the use of oak is eschewed in favor of showing the true (authentic) wine in the glass, uncovered by wood aromas and flavors.
At a height of 3,111 meters (10,200 feet) in altitude, Altura Maxima is the highest vineyard in the world (although a recently planted plot in Tibet threatens to take this title away). It was initially planted in 2007 to Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as Malbec. Given the elevation, the vines receive more ultraviolet light, forcing them to develop thicker skins on the grapes. This ultimately produces wines with more structure and concentration, while the 25 degree diurnal difference ensures that the wines retain high levels of acidity and elegance. All of this comes at a price; the very extreme conditions mean that wasps, donkeys and frost are all threats to the fruit. Thus, the vineyard only yields a small production of grapes (4 kilos per hectare compared to 7 kilos per hectare).
TASTING NOTES Colome Autentico 2017, Salta, Argentina, $on-premise only
This 100% Malbec is deep purple in color with intense aromas of wood, plum, black fruit. The dry palate displays very ripe blackberry and blueberry joined by floral and spice, with firm, ripe tannins, full body and medium+ length. It is released young, but can age five to seven years.
Colome Altura Maxima 2014, Salta, Argentina, $125.00
Also 100% Malbec, this wine spends 23 months in old oak and one year in bottle before release. It is a very floral Malbec with fine grained tannins.
Regardless of which winter holidays you do or don’t celebrate, who doesn’t want to be on the receiving end of presents? So, with that in mind, I am starting a list just in case anyone wants to know what to get me. First up, Pinot Noir from Papapietro Perry!
I first became acquainted with Papapietro Perry Winery back in 2008 when I compiled a lengthy list of Sonoma County producers to potentially visit for our upcoming trip. We would be in Sonoma for an extended weekend (Thursday through Tuesday), first to attend the very first Wine Bloggers’ Conference and then to enjoy a few days tasting and touring throughout the county.
We had arranged to meet our San Francisco-based friends, Peter and Nicole, for the day and set off in pursuit of Pinot. With our focus on Healdsburg, that day included visits to Ridge, Seghesio and Papapietro Perry. Well-known and respected for their Pinot and Zinfandel, Papapietro Perry had ended up on the list thanks to the favorable reviews they garnered in Wine Spectator magazine (and continue to receive in that and in other publications).
The winemakers behind the label are Bruce Perry and Ben Papapietro. With their mutual love of food and wine, the two friends began making wine together in a shared pursuit of Pinot Noir. Starting in Ben’s San Francisco garage back in 1980s, their homemade attempts turned out to be quite good, eventually permitting them to quit their “day jobs” to pursue wine full-time. And, keeping it all in the family, they are joined by their wives, Renae Perry (who is responsible for winery operations) and Yolanda Papapietro (who handles distribution).
During our 2008 visit, I was very impressed with the wines, tasting two Pinots (Charles Vineyard ~ Anderson Valley and Leras Family Vineyards ~ Russian River Valley) and two Zins (both from the Russian River Valley). So, it was a pleasure to reacquaint myself with Papapietro Perry wine again more recently. Trust me, if someone gifts you their wines, you will not be unhappy!
TASTING NOTE Papapietro Perry Pinot Noir Nunes Vineyard 2016 Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $60.00
This 100% Pinot Noir wine spent 11 months in French oak, 50% of which was new and 50% of which was 1 and 2 years old. Pale garnet with a paler rim, typical of Pinot Noir, this wine offered up spice, earth and cherry aromas. It was dry, with bright acidity, fresh cherries and raspberries, spice, a slight woody note, and an undercurrent of earthiness on the medium-bodied palate, culminating in very long length. A truly beautiful wine.
They say you can’t go home again, but our visits to the North Fork of Long Island, post-real estate sale, continue to make us feel welcome. And nowhere was that more apparent than at our former next door neighbor, Macari Vineyards.
Living next door to a winery is great! As I liked to joke when we visited the tasting room with house guests – it was stagger distance. But, all kidding aside, they truly were great neighbors. From the very beginning, the Macari’s were helpful, kind, warm and generous. While most people consider borrowing a cup of sugar from their neighbors in a pinch, we borrowed their winemaking expertise in the form of a chemical analysis of the wine that my husband made with two friends from Macari fruit. Plus, they produce amazing wine, currently under the direction of winemaker Kelly Urbanik Koch.
So, when my husband’s employer decided to do an event on the North Fork, we knew that Macari would figure prominently on the agenda. Upon arrival, the assembled guests (a group of employees, management and advisory board members) were provided with a tour of the winery, followed by a guided tasting with Alexandra Macari in their beautiful, Private Barrel Cellar. Afterward, we enjoyed dinner on the deck, accompanied by an assortment of Macari wines.
All in all, it was a wonderful visit and we definitely felt at home!
TASTING NOTES
Macari Sparkling Pinot Noir Gabriella 2012, $35.00
Named in honor of Alexandra and Joe’s daughter – and an integral part of the Macari team – Gabriela, this effervescent wine offered up aromas of cotton candy, cherries and yeastiness. On the palate, it is dry with medium+ acidity, ripe berries, cream and melon.
Macari Sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon “Horses” (2015 or 2016), $N/A
Unfiltered and cloudy wine due to the minimal intervention used to produce this non-disgorged sparkler, it is named for a vineyard area called horse head bluff because well, it looks like a horse’s head. Pale salmon in color, the wine is slightly off-dry, with slight cherry fruit, strawberry cream and toasted marshmallow on the cleansing palate. It is currently sold out; make sure to catch it next time around.
Macari Sauvignon Blanc “Katherine’s Field” 2016, $24.00
Fermented in 100% stainless steel, this wine displays notes of slight smoke, citrus, and tropical fruit, which persisted on the clean, fresh palate, with a slight spritz and long length.
Macari Sauvignon Blanc Lifeforce (2016), $28.00 In contrast to the Katherine’s Field Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is fermented in concrete egg-shaped tanks yielding an edgier, more structural wine with angularity, heaviness and a fuller body, along with intense acidity (whereas the other SB is softer and rounder).
Macari Chardonnay Reserve 2014, $27.00
This full-bodied white was barrel fermented in two- and three-year old French oak, resulting in aromas and flavors of toothpick, apple and spice, along with medium+ acidity.
Macari Bergen Road 2013, $50.00
This Bordeaux-style wine leads with 51% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Aromas of black cherry, oak, balsamic vinegar, give way to flavors of herbs, earth, oak and spice on the dry, full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.
Macari Alexandra 2010, $85.00
A flagship red blend made only in top vintages, it is primarily produced with Merlot. Compared to the Bergen Road, it presents with darker fruit, smoke, vanilla as well as beautiful dried fruit, dried herbs and resolved tannins on the full-bodied, lush, palate. Only 200 cases were made.
With its wealth of wines and wine regions, there is a lot to know about Italian wine! Plus, Italy seems to be in a constant state of flux with regard to rules and regulations as it continually seeks to improve the quality of its production. In October, I attended the Simply Italian Great Wines U.S. Tour 2018, organized by IEEM USA, to get the scoop on a new DOC as well as update my knowledge on Lambrusco. Similarly, some recent press releases have also kept me up-to-date on changes in Piedmont.
65 Shades of Grey At the Simply Italian event, attendees had the opportunity to taste through 65 shades of grey (or more correctly in Italian, grigio). All of the wines were produced from the Pinot Grigio grape variety and were part of the new DOC delle Venezie. This new denomination was established in 2017, implementing new rules such as lower yields, and elevating Pinot Grigio from IGP status.
One of the largest production areas in all of Europe, the DOC comprises 30,000 hectares spread over three regions. The DOC delle Venezie bills itself as “Italian style Pinot Grigio,” but there is still plenty of room for diversity with wines at the event ranging from still to sparking and one with a hint of color from brief skin contact. Although I tasted through quite a few of the wines on offer, I wisely did not attempt to try all 65. Of the ones I tasted, my favorites included those from Tomassi, Perlage, SalvaTerra and Tre.
The (Un)usual Suspects Whereas Pinot Grigio is quite well-known in the U.S., Lambrusco is less ubiquitous, but definitely worth knowing about. In a session titled, “Lambrusco D.O.C. & Sangiovese D.O.C.: The Cultural Heritage of the Territory,” Professor Giammario Villa explained that the Emilia Romagna region’s main cultural focus is food, as evidenced by talk about dinner as early as breakfast. This emphasis is likely a result of the Via Emilia Road built by the Roman consults in 187 BCE, which created the hubs of Reggio, Parma, Bologna, all of which are synonymous with food. Vinously, the region has numerous geological differences that have influenced the local wine legislation. The Professor also noted that the region is marked by a preponderance of cooperatives (responsible for 75% of the wines produced), which has kept wine prices relatively inexpensive.
With regard to Lambrusco itself, there are 6 DOCs: Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa and Reggiano within Reggio Emilia and four more in Modena. Wine produced in the more flexible designation of Lambrusco di Modena has been made as early as the middle of the 10th century and currently permits higher yields than the more specific Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce and Lambrusco di Sorbara.
While there are stylistic differences among the various DOCs, in general, Lambrusco is produced via the Charmat Method and the resulting wines typically display high acidity, at least some effervescence, low alcohol and fruity and floral aromas. However, they are more varied with regard to tannins and body/structure.
Coming from the northern part of the region, the wines of Lambrusco di Sorbara are usually quite light in color, while those from Reggiano are deep in color with a lively foam. Located in the central part of the region, with vines grown at a higher altitude, the wines of Lambrusco Grasparosa di Castelvetro hail from the clay soils and hilly slopes and offer up earthy, spicy notes along with more tannin and structure.
Tasting through a selection of these wines, I was reminded just how much I enjoy Lambrusco and wondered why I don’t remember to drink them more often. My tasting notes are included below.
Updates in Piedmont Within Piedmont, perhaps best-known for Barbaresco and Barolo, attention has been turned to its Barbera variety. Specifically, the Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini del Monferrato has partnered with the Università di Torino – Disafa to conduct a scientific study to create a sensory map of the Barbera d’Asti DOCG appellation. Called Barbera d’Asti 2.0, the focus of this study is to better understand the influence of geological and climatic conditions and how these growing conditions relate to the wine profiles of the wines produced in each area. The study took a year to complete and the results (aka the map) have just been published.
Shining light on another grape variety, the same Consorzio has also received approval to modify the specifications of the Monferrato DOC, which has now been expanded to include two additional DOCs: Monferrato Nebbiolo and Monferrato Nebbiolo Superiore. The new denomination will take effect with the 2019 harvest, with the first wines released into the market in 2020, after the requisite aging periods (12 and 18 months, respectively). The main impetus for this change was to permit producers to include the grape variety on the label. Given that the Monferrato designation by itself has limited consumer recognition, this should give the participating wineries a better opportunity to market their wines.
TASTING NOTES Cleto Chiarli ‘Vecchia Modena’ Lambrusco NV
Aromas of strawberry greeted the nose. On the palate it was very tart and fresh with underripe strawberry flavors and and long length.
For.Mo.Sa Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOP NV
With deeper, darker red fruits, bright acidity, this was relatively full bodied with good length.
Ca’ Montanari ‘Opera 02’ Lambrusco di Modena DOP NV
Displaying a cocoa note as well as red fruit on nose, this wine was fuller in body, offering up darker fruits and good acidity.
Lombardini ‘Il Signore Campanone’ Lambrusco Reggiano DOP NV
A shier nose with less fruity aromas, this wine was earthy with slight cherry notes on the palate.
Born, raised and educated in Burgundy, Thibaut Delmotte launched his wine career doing three harvests each in Burgundy and Bordeaux before taking a year off to travel throughout South America. He booked an open ticket, headed to Buenos Aires and visited Argentina, Chile and Brazil, eventually finding himself somewhat settled in Salta teaching French at the local Alliance Française.
Colome Autentico 2017, Salta, Argentina, $on-premise only
