When you are in the midst of a heatwave in the height of summer, the last thing you want to do is turn on the stove or even leave the house. But, you still have to eat. Take-out is always a great option and the fresh and cooling flavors of sushi were exceedingly welcome this past Saturday night. We decided to mix it up a bit and opted for some more unusual rolls for a change, which provided a nice selection of flavors and textures.
To complement our delicious dinner, we opened up two Rieslings from Nik Weis’ St. Urbans -Hof estate in the Mosel. Both wines were the perfect pairing and we were hard-pressed to decide which one was better with which roll. So, we called it a tie. Either way, the wines were absolutely lovely and, at only $18.00 each, represented great value in high quality German Riesling.
TASTING NOTES
Nik Weis St. Urbans-Hof Estate Dry Riesling 2018, QbA, Germany, $18.00 While not new to the Nik Weis portfolio, this wine is new to the U.S. market; the Germans are finally ready to share their dry Rieslings with us! This wine showed pronounced aromas of floral, tropical fruit and peach, while the dry palate offers up high acidity with medium body, lime, zest, spice and minerality, culminating in long length.
Nik Weis St. Urbans-Hof Estate Estate Riesling from Old Vines 2018, QbA, Germany, $18.00 With a less pronounced nose, this wine displayed candied lemon and slight floral notes. Its off-dry palate was beautifully balanced with lively acidity, a fuller body, riper lemon fruit and long length.
As a more recent addition to the Israeli wine scene, Galil Mountain was established by Golan Heights Winery (which produces Yarden) as a joint venture in 2000. With its emphasis on entry-level wines, it serves as a lovely counterpoint to those produced at Golan Heights. But, make no mistake, these are still well-made, high quality wines, capable of aging, despite their wallet-friendly price points.
Keeping it within the family, Galil Mountain recently appointed Michael Avery as a winemaker for the brand, who had previously worked closely with Victor Schoenfeld at Yarden for more than a decade. Michael speaks very highly of his mentor noting that Victor is one of the biggest contributors to the industry and, more personally, acknowledges how much he learned from him, including how to make sparkling wine.
Before arriving in Israel, Avery was raised on the family farm in Mildura, Australia, gaining exposure to grape growing and winemaking, which he then pursued formally, earning degrees in winemaking from Monash University and the University of Adelaide. Upon graduation, he worked in McLaren Vale for Kangarilla Road/Gemtree Winery, then later studied with an Israeli and decided to do a vintage in Israel. Not long after, Victor offered him a seasonal position, which Avery jokes was a really long vintage, staying on with Yarden until 2018. After a brief hiatus in Oregon, Avery returned to Israel to take on a winemaker role with Galil Mountain.
Avery is excited about the opportunity to work at Galil Mountain, which cultivates five vineyards to the north of the Sea of Galilee. Here, the high elevation of the vineyards (the vineyards are at 2000 feet above sea level), volcanic soils, good diurnal variation, moderate temperatures, limited rain, no disease pressure, good light and great air circulation all conspire to provide very favorable conditions for grape growing. Consequently, they are able to grow various varieties, ultimately producing a wide range of wines.
Like its sister winery, Galil Mountain is focused on sustainable practices, which it has adopted from the Lodi Rules program. Avery explained that while some organic and biodynamic techniques have been implemented, the over-arching principle is to take the practices that work best for their situation. Among the more specific practices that are used at Galil include lots of compost and soil management as well as the reuse of materials such as the couches at the winery made from old pallets.
Under the Galil Mountain brand, the winery produces three main labels: Galil Mountain, Galil and its flagship wines, which are blends created from specific vineyards. The percentage of grape varieties change from vintage to vintage, depending on yield and growing conditions. Journalists were introduced to these wines (and to Avery) at a recent lunch, held at Gramercy Tavern.
TASTING NOTES
Galil Mountain Rosé 2018, $19.99 Produced from a blend of Barbera, Sangiovese, Pinot Noir and Grenache, this wine offered up nice fruit aromas and flavors of peach, berries/strawberry, with a slight grip and long length.
Galil Sauvignon Blanc 2018, $19.50 Aged on the lees for added texture, this wine was lean and mineral in character, with a pronounced nose of citrus and herbs. It displayed bright acidity, with a slight hint of ripeness on the palate, culminating in long length.
Galil Mountain Grenache 2018 This fresh and fruity, yet balanced, wine was medium-bodied, with lively acidity, aromas and flavors of berries and cherries, along with medium length.
Galil Mountain Merlot 2017, $15.99 This unoaked red showed notes of plum and coffee, giving way to flavors of red berries, sage and bitter chocolate. It had a more tannic structure than the Syrah.
Galil Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, $17.50 Notes of dark chocolate, menthol and black fruit greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, along with good acidity and medium+ body.
Galil Mountain Syrah 2017, $15.50 With gamey and leather aromas, this wine is fresh and full bodied, with red and black fruit and long length.
Galil Ela 2014, 19.99 A blend of Syrah, Barbera and Petit Verdot, this dry red wine spends one year in French oak barrels, but was quite delicate with smoke and red fruit aromas and flavors, medium+ body and long length.
Galil Alon 2014, $21.99 This wine is comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, which have been aged in French oak for 12 months. With darker fruit, spice, slight cocoa, well ripened tannins and well-integrated oak, this was an especially lovely wine.
Galil Yiron 2015, $35.00 Bringing together Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot, this dry red was intense and rich on both the nose and palate. It spent 16 months aging in French oak barrels and displayed an elegant structure, with lots of red and black fruit notes.
For over two decades, Régis Camus has been at the helm of Piper-Heidsieck’s winemaking, garnering admiration, accolades and awards (as Piper’s Chef de Caves, he has been named Sparkling Winemaker of the Year eight times by the International Wine Challenge jury). But, after 24 vintages devoted to the Cuvée Brut NV, it was time for a change.
Since 2000, Camus has included the company’s prestige cuvée, Rare, under his purview and was responsible for the creation of its rosé counterpart, Rare Rosé, first released in 2016. While Rare was initially the tete du cuvée, the wine has now become its own brand with increasing substance and status. Accordingly, as Camus turns his attention to all things Rare, Piper-Heidsieck has brought in new talent to take over its Cellar Master spot: Émilien Boutillat.
Admittedly, given Camus’ experience and expertise, these are not easy shoes to fill. However, the youthful Boutillat is no stranger to Champagne, having grown up in the region to a Champagne-producing family. In fact, his father worked with Piper-Heidsieck as a grower and Boutillat fondly remembers visiting the Champagne house as a child to ride the train that used to be on the property.
Following in his family’s footsteps, he studied enology and agricultural engineering, and went on to work harvests both at home and abroad. After building up a solid portfolio of experience with stints in Bordeaux, the Rhône Valley, Southern France, Chile, New Zealand, California and South Africa, he returned to Champagne as Cellar Master for Champagnes Cattier and Armand de Brignac.
In late 2018, Boutillat joined Piper-Heidsieck, working closely with Camus to better understand the style of the brand and learn how to make the blend. He is committed to maintaining the same style and excellence of the Piper brand, but is also looking forward to making his mark. In this regard, he anticipates making subtle changes as he adds his own personal touch, all while respecting the DNA of the brand.
More specifically, Boutillat notes that details are very important, and plans to focus on the vineyards more so than on changes in winemaking, looking at factors such as harvest dates. He is also dedicated to sustainable agriculture, with the intention of adding to the efforts already underway at Piper-Heidsieck. In particular, he will encourage sustainable viticulture practices among Piper’s partners and will raise standards in the vineyards.
When not at work, he performs with a local Improv theater group and is an avid hiker. Closer to home, he grows his own vegetables and enjoys cooking, always seeking to find a balance between the wine and food. Thus, it was a perfect introduction to him and the art of pairing wine and food, when he made his New York debut after nine months of “study.” At lunch at Hudson Yards’ Wild Ink, the current crop of Piper-Heidsieck’s Champagnes showed beautifully with the Asian-inspired cuisine and we had fun trying out different wines with each course. Although none of these wines were made by Boutillat, it was clear that he is up to the challenge and that the future of Piper-Heidsieck is in good hands.
TASTING NOTES
Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV, $45.00 Based on the 2015 vintage, the Cuvée is made up of 50% Pinot Noir 30% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. It is toasty and fruity with citrus and pear notes. The palate is rich and complex yet not complicated, with long length.
Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage NV, $60.00 The Rosé Sauvage uniquely drinks more like a still wine than a Champagne and is one of the darkest rosé’s on the market. It offers up dark red fruit and berries, along with smoke and sweet spices, with intense richness on the palate, along with great acidity and long length.
Piper-Heidsieck Brut 2012, $80.00 The 2012 is the most recent vintage; the last one was 2008. A 50-50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, sourced among the best grapes from Grand and Premier Crus vineyards, this is an age-worthy wine that can keep in the cellar for up to 15 years. Aromas of yeast, tree fruit, toastiness and cherry greet the nose, while the palate is very complex, seductive, generous and creamy, with the added flavors of honey and spice, culminating in long length.
Piper-Heidsieck Sublime (Demi-Sec), $55.00 This demi-sec dessert wine has 35 g/l of residual sugar, but is very balanced and elegant, with bright acidity and a citrus note lingering in the fresh finish. Aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, vanilla, mango, gingerbread and coconut made it a perfect pairing partner to dessert as well as spicy foods.
While Americans observed their historic founding on July 4th, the Portuguese celebrated similarly last month. In particular, June 10 marked the occasion of Portugal Day, a celebration of Portugal’s history and culture, first championed by the country’s poet Luís de Camões. Camões, who died on June 10, 1580, was highly regarded for his epic poem praising and recording the accomplishments of the Portuguese Empire, forever linking him to this holiday.
Although Portugal Day is generally only acknowledged at home (in Portugal), this year, two wonderful wine events provided a great way to hail Portugal’s vinous culture: Esporão Day and a luncheon featuring wines from Vinho Verde’s Monção andMelgaço subregion. And, after tasting through glass after glass, it is evident that Portugal has reason to rejoice these days!
The fictitious, yet no less delicious, “Esporão Day,” was hosted in New York by Master Sommelier, Alex LaPratt, and included a guided tasting of six whites and six reds, expertly paired with two savory courses prepared by Hearth Restaurant in the East Village. The whites were accompanied by head-on prawns with spring vegetable ragu, butter and white wine, while the reds were served alongside beef and ricotta meatballs with “cacio e pepe” polenta.
At the center of the event was Portuguese wine brand Esporão. Established in 1973 with the aim of producing fine wine in the Alentejo region, its first foray into the industry was with the acquisition of the Herdade do Esporão estate. With 750 years of history, this storied land is home to three historical monuments – tower, arch and a chapel – as well as cork oak forests and 1710 acres of vineyards, olive groves and fruit orchards. The vineyards are planted to 40 different grape varieties and there are four different types of olives grown. The cellars were built in 1987, with separate facilities for red and white production.
After achieving success in the Alentejo, Esporão set its sights on the Douro, purchasing the Quinta dos Murcas estate in 2008. Another historic property, Quinta dos Murcas has been growing grapes since 1714, with 383 acres spread over 8 diverse terroirs. In 1947, the estate was the first to be planted vertically, with high density to stabilitze the soil against erosion on the steep (42 degree) incline.
Both estates emphasize sustainability practices and a dedication to organic farming. In this regard, Esporão hopes to be fully organically certified by 2021.
Today, the company is presently comprised of the two wine labels, olive oil production and, since 2018, the addition of a brewery, Sovina, which was the first craft beer in Portugal when founded in 2008.
Esporao’s chief winemaker, David Baverstock, is originally from Adelaide, Australia and has been with the company since 1992. He was joined in his efforts in 2016 by colleague Sandra Alves who oversees the red wines. Meanwhile, in the Douro, wine production is directed by Jose Luis Moreira da Silva.
TASTING NOTES WHITES *Assobio Branco 2018 – Named for the word whistle due to the sound that the wind makes as it travels through this 2300-foot-elevation vineyard, the wine offers up aromas of floral and peach. The palate is dry, with concentrated fruit flavors, medium acidity, medium+ body and long length.
Monte Velho Branco 2018 – Produced with 50% estate and 50% purchased fruit, this wine features citrus, grapefruit and pith notes, and, while dry, there is a hint of ripeness on the attack; medium+ acidity, long length.
Esporão Verdelho Branco 2017 – With Verdelho being the 6th most planted grape in Alentejo, this grape has become much more well known. This wine displays smoke, richness and nuttiness on the full-bodied palate with medium acidity and long length.
*Esporão Colheita Branco 2018 – A beautiful wine with lovely freshness, salinity, medium+ body, flavors of pear and spice, culminating in long length.
Esporão Reserva Branco 2017 – This barrel-fermented, white blend shows spice, oak, bruised apple and nuts, along with its full body and long length.
*Esporão Private Selection Branco 2016 – Bringing together 95% Semillon and 5% field blend, sourced from a clay soil vineyard, this wine has a gorgeous nose, showing some slight development with hints of smoke, lees and oak. Full-bodied with long length, the oak lingers in finish of this very textural wine.
REDS *Assobio Tinto 2011 – This medium-bodied red offers up aromas of berries and smoke. It is fresh with lively acidity on the palate and can take a chill, making it an excellent choice for warmer weather.
*Esporão Colheita Tinto 2017 – With a dark and brooding nose, this wine delivers more red fruit on the palate, with slight oak, medium- tannins, bright acidity and long length.
Quinta dos Murcas Minas Tinto 2017 – Intense aromas of bramble fruit, dried herbs, and a hint of oak greet the nose, with these flavors persisting on the palate and culminating in long length.
Quinta dos Murcas Reserva Tinto 2012 – This wine spends one year in barrel and four years in bottle before its release. It displays notes of oak, smoke, black fruit, and meatiness. The palate is intense and concentrated with black fruit, granite/ mineral, firm tannins, full body and long length.
Esporão Reserva Tinto 2011 – This powerful, yet restrained, wine was first produced in 1985 and sports attractive artwork on the label each year. The nose and palate feature red and black fruit, well integrated oak, firm tannins, full body and long length.
*Esporão Private Selection Tinto 2011 – A pronounced nose of black and blue fruit, gives way to vanilla, oak, iron and meatiness on the dry, full-bodied palate along with very firm tannins and long length.
As we mark the Fourth of July this year, celebrations abound from barbecues and pool parties to fireworks that proudly proclaim our freedom. In this celebratory spirit, we can look to the Zinfandel grape as the quintessential grape variety with which to fill our glasses and raise a toast this holiday.
Descended from a Croatian grape, Zinfandel first arrived on America’s shores in 1829, eventually making its way to California by 1852 and becoming the most popular variety by 1878 during the state’s first wine boom. [For the full history, see the Zinfandel Advocates and Producers’ website.] Accordingly, Zinfandel holds dual personae. As David Amadia, president of Ridge Vineyards recently noted, it is considered to be California’s native grape, but given its European heritage, it is actually an immigrant story and an illustration of the American Dream. Surviving both phylloxera and Prohibition, Zinfandel continues to be widely grown and known throughout California.
While for some, Zinfandel is an also-ran variety, to many, it is under-appreciated high performer that deserves more recognition than it gets. In this regard, Master Sommelier, Laura Maniac Fiorvanti, proprietor of Corkbuzz Wine Studio, recently moderated a panel of Zin producers, which provided a perfect opportunity to showcase the caliber of these wines and their diversity. She kicked off the discussion wearing her heart on her sleeve, admitting that Zinfandel is her favorite grape due to its versatility. In particular, Fiorvanti spoke about the food friendly nature of Zinfandel to pair with braises, tomato-based dishes and stews, thanks to its sweet and sour tastes and elegance.
Despite her fervor, Amadia acknowledged that Zinfandel is a prince, not a king, among wines, in terms of its international reputation, but underscored the beauty of this grape to deliver delicious, age-worthy wines. He added that the trick to producing such high quality wines is determining where it performs the best. Previously at Ridge, they used to make Zinfandel wine from 100 different sites, but the winery has now whittled it down to the best vineyards, with an emphasis on old vines.
Highlighting the flexibility mentioned by Fiorvanti, Berryessa Gap Vineyards’ winemaker, Nicole Salengo, discussed the elegant and restrained side of Zinfandel. Given her pursuit of lively acidity levels, her Zinfandel grapes are the first to be harvested and she is not adverse to including under-ripe grapes in the fermentation, but she does remove the raisined ones. Her two vintages (2016 and 2017) of Zins from The Coble Ranch displayed light body, light color and bright acidity, resulting in an almost Pinot Noir-style wine.
As with Pinot Noir, Zinfandel varies widely based on the site it is grown on. Moreover, Zinfandel changes as you get closer to (or further from) the ocean. In this way, it speaks to the terroir with varying notes of spice, earthiness and acidity. In general, it is a grape (and ultimately a wine) with moderate tannins, that provides a smooth, seamless texture for the fruit and spice to show through. However, it was admitted that the grape is notorious for creeping up in sugar during the fermentation process, if alcohol levels aren’t carefully managed.
Hailing from two, old vineyards only two miles apart, Ridge’s contribution to the tasting offered up fuller-bodied wines, with darker fruit. These pre-prohibition vineyards (Geyserville from 1885 and Lytton Springs from 1901 and 1910) displayed two distinct wines; the former was more herbaceous with notes of cherry, while the latter showed spice, earth and blackberry. Amadia attributes their unique characteristics to the different soil types within each vineyard. Additionally, these vineyards also include Petit Sirah, Carignan and up to 18 other varieties planted alongside the Zinfandel vines, which he believes is the key to the quality of these resulting, magical wines.
Similarly, Kim Stare Wallace, president and owner of Dry Creek Vineyard, reiterated the need for balance in these wines as well as the need to preserve old vine Zinfandel. To this end, they have implemented a Heritage Clone Propagation technique, permitting the winery to continue to grow older clones of the grape in newer vineyards. Their Beeson Ranch Vineyard was planted in the 1890s. Her Wallace Ranch and Beeson Ranch Zinfandels were dense, rich and well structured, yet still elegant and refined.
Closing out the conversation, it was mentioned that, as a mid-season ripener, Zinfandel is less impacted by vintage variation. Rather, as Aaron Piotter, winemaker for Gallo Wines, explained, stylistically, it often depends on when you pick within a given growing season. Gallo’s two entries were the Louis Martini Gnarly Old Vines Monte Rosso 2016 from Sonoma and the recently launched Bear Flag Sonoma County Vineyard 2016. The Monte Rosso, grown on high elevation, volcanic red soil, was quite floral on the nose, with power, concentration and velvet texture on the palate and flavors of blueberry, spice, fig and date. Meanwhile, the Bear Flag was less stylized, but no less rich, with generous fruit, berries, oak, cocoa and good tannins.
By the end of the tasting and discussion, it was evident that Zinfandel delivers a wonderful range of styles, providing a wealth of options for any wine lover. Further, as “America’s Heritage Grape,” it is important to preserve this important viticultural legacy for the future.
I have previously extolled the virtues of Sherry, but it bears repeating: Sherry is super food-friendly, delicious and produced in a wide range of styles suitable for nearly anytime and any occasion. Sherry is also super versatile, as was demonstrated earlier this month at the Tio Pepe Challenge.
The 2019 edition of the Challenge marked the sixth year of this international competition, which brings bartenders and mixologists head to head with the goal of crafting the perfect Sherry cocktail. Held in mid-April, the six national finalists converged in New York city at Osamil to compete.
Each person was required to complete a blind tasting, demonstrate their Sherry pouring technique wielding a venencia and last but not least, participate in a cocktail showdown. The competing cocktails featured different Tio Pepe products and ranged from sweet to super savory (toasted sesame seeds, anyone?).
Judged by Master Blender Antonio Flores, International Brand Ambassador Álvaro Plata, and Courtney Schiessl of The Tasting Panel, the U.S. Final saw Javier Ortega Diaz of Vegas’ The Libertine Social beat out Joshua Fossitt, Carlie Steiner, Tiana Dillard, Alexander Lazzari, and Patrick McDonald. As the winner, Diaz will travel to participate in the International Final on May 15 in Jerez, Spain.
Guests at the event could taste the cocktails and also had the opportunity to taste other Tio Pepe sherries, while enjoying a selection of oysters, tapas and other light bites. Overall, the Challenge proved that Sherry can hold its own in the bar setting as well as it does at the tapas bar or table.
Here is the recipe to the winning cocktail: Sophia by Javier Ortega Diaz, The Libertine Social, Las Vegas. WINNER
2 oz. Tio Pepe Fino Sherry
¾ oz. blood orange liqueur
½ oz. freshly squeezed Lime Juice
½ oz. homemade kumquat, rosemary, thyme syrup
1 oz. homemade sparkling hibiscus water
Garnish with slice kumquats, rosemary, thyme, and edible
flowers.
Whether you call it Garnacha or Grenache, this great grape is finally getting the recognition it deserves! Last week, in a very special campaign – the first time that two countries are collaborating in the promotion of wine – a unique dinner featuring the wines of Grenache & Garnacha was held at La Nacional Restaurant. The restaurant is operated under the auspices of the Spanish Benevolent Society, first established in 1868 to “promote, encourage and spread the spirit of fraternity and solidarity among Spanish and Hispanic-American residents of this country.”
Although the society’s role has morphed over the years as the Spanish immigrant population has declined, it still exists in the promotion of Spanish culture. To this end, most recently, they have taken back its space to launch a public restaurant, bringing top chefs from Spain to create authentic Spanish meals. And, it was the perfect setting in which to enjoy these wonderful wines.
Among the oldest grape varieties in the world, Grenache (aka Garnacha) is the second most planted red variety in the world. Within the Garnacha grape family, there are actually four different grapes: red, grey, white and velvet. First grown in the Spanish Kingdom of Aragon, Garnacha thrives in the hot and dry climate, suitable for dry farming. Given its ability to do so well in harsh conditions – it is wind resistant, drought resistant, disease resistent and does well in acidic soils – Garnacha has been hailed as one of the most eco-friendly grapes in the world. Interestingly, with the grape’s sensitivity to soil types, it is often referred to as the Pinot Noir of Spain.
Today, 97% of Garnacha vines are found in just two countries: France and Spain. Between the two countries, the majority of the vineyards are located within the adjacent areas of Calatyud, Campo de Borja, Carinena, Somontano, Terra Alta and Roussillon. Yet despite the relatively compact area, the grapes produce a wide range of styles, showcasing the diversity of the variety. In this regard, Grenache produces: sparkling and still wines; light-bodied and full-bodied whites; roses; light-bodied and full-bodied reds; and fortified sweet wines. Additionally, today, many old vines still exist, creating rich, concentrated wines. Moreover, the focus has shifted away from the use of small, new oak barrels to older and larger oak vessels that impart less overt oak flavor and aromas to the resulting wines.
Over the course of our dinner, we had the great opportunity to sample delicious food paired with five beautifully made Garnacha and Grenache wines, illustrating their pleasure-inducing and food-friendly nature.
TASTING NOTES
Las Moradas de San Martin, Senda 2014, Vinos de Madrid, Spain, $14.00 Under the direction of a female winemaker, Las Moradas de San Martin is working toward receiving organic viticulture status and is home to 190 year old vines. This wine is 100% red Garnacha, with notes of cherry, plum, spice, a slight tannic grip, long length and a slight oxidative note. Paired with a selection of Spanish cheeses.
Domaine Gardies, Clos des Vignes 2015, Cotes du Roussillon, France, $33.00 This 5th generation family estate boasts old vines, including the 75 year old vines grown on chalky soils that produced this wine. It is a blend of 60% white Grenache, 35% grey Grenache and 5% Macabeu and Roussanne, vinified in and then aged in large, old, wood vessels for one year before release. Beautifully complex with aromas of floral, acacia, anisette, fennel, wood and a hint of oxidation, along with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, flavors of citrus, stone in finish, culminating in long length. Ageworthy. Paired with Octopus.
Bodegas San Valero Particular Old Vine 2015 Carinena, Spain, $15.00 Bodeas San Valero is a co-op, which is starting to do some single vineyard wines. The grapes for this wine were grown at 650 meters in altitude, in limestone and chalky soils, that are very stony. These rocks hold heat at night, helping to aid in the vine’s ripening. An intense nose of red fruit, on the palate the wine offers up spice, slight tannic grip, ripe red fruit, wild berries, with long length. 100% Garnacha; aged three months in oak. Paired with Grilled Lamb Chops – a very traditional pairing.
Bodegas Paniza (highest village in the appellation) Vinas Viejas de Paniza Garnarcha 2016, Carinena, Spain, $12.00 Produced from 100% Garnacha, on slate soils and grey schist at a high altitude, this wine spends six months in oak. It is very fresh, with herbal aromas and flavors, dark red and black fruit, good acidity, medium tannins and long length. Paired with Chorizo and Bechamel Croquettes.
Les Vignerons de Constance & Terrassous Hors d’Age 12 Ans, Rivesaltes Ambre, Roussillon, France, $30.00 A fortified dessert wine produced from 40-year-old, white Grenache vines, this wine has a slight oxidative note, with rich and complex flavors of apricot, caramel and spice, joined with good acidity, structure and long length. Paired with Chocolate Mousse and Blood Orange Gelato.
Regardless of which winter holidays you do or don’t celebrate, who doesn’t want to be on the receiving end of presents? So, with that in mind, I am starting a list just in case anyone wants to know what to get me. Next up, a fabulous dress from Marta Scarampi!
Thanks to a holiday invite from my friend Susannah Gold of Vigneto Communications, I had the pleasure of meeting the Torino-based designer and browsing her wares while sipping wines from Lugana, a unique DOC that spans two Italian regions – Lombardia and the Veneto. Here, the white grape variety Turbiana, which is closely related to Trebbiano di Soave, reigns supreme, finding its way into a wide range of wine styles from still to sparkling and from dry to sweet. [NB: I previously wrote about Lugana’s wines last year.]
Italian native Marta Scarampi studied at FIT before returning home to launch her fashion line. Her line features a selection of capes and her travel and business collection – dresses and jackets that easily go from the boardroom to the boarding queue.
These capes are much better to keep a super woman warm on a cold day and can be customized with faux fur collars, rainproof hoods and are available in a range of fabrics and styles. They looked uber chic and sophisticated on my friend, Lisa, who tried on several different options.
Always and forever the dress girl, I was smitten by two styles in Marta’s collection. The first was her Lucca stretch dress (pictured left), while the other was a more celebratory number with metallic threads, worthy of the holiday season. Like the capes, the dress styles can also be made-to-order with the client’s preferred fabric choice.
The first time I hosted Thanksgiving, it was actually the day AFTER Thanksgiving. So, we decided to spice things up a bit by re-imagining the traditional holiday meal, southwestern style. Accordingly, we served up turkey fajitas, salsa and chips, cornbread stuffing and pumpkin flan. It was perfect and well received.
Now that my parents are retired and living in Florida, my husband’s and my new tradition is making reservations at a nice restaurant that offers up some version of the customary menu (it is the only time of the year that I eat turkey), but not too traditional or limited since hubby could care less about the traditional fare.
In a similar twist to that first Thanksgiving dinner, this year we were enticed by the prix fixe menu presented by Indian Accent, which offered up a multi-course meal featuring the usual suspects, but, (pardon the pun) with an Indian accent (see menu below). The restaurant has three locations: New York, New Delhi and London and prides itself on reinterpreting traditional Indian cuisine.
A friend had mentioned that the restaurant’s cocktails were outstanding (they were), but we were even more pleased with the jewel of a wine list curated by sommelier, Edwin J. Davila. Both wide ranging and eclectic, there were a significant number of delicious options under $100 and many under $75, which was wonderful. With Edwin’s guidance, we ordered the Sybille Kuntz Riesling Spatlese Trocken 2011 (Mosel, Germany), which was absolutely perfect with our dinner. Edwin noted that with the diversity of flavors and textures on the menu and no obvious geographic constraints (i.e. Italian fare with Italian wines), he was able to be very creative with his list. He also likes to make unusual marriages as evidenced by the vermouth he deliciously paired with the bacon kulcha.
INDIAN ACCENT THANKSGIVING MENU sesame chili sweet potato
sweet pickle ribs, sundried mango, onion seeds
mathri: duck khurchan or smoked eggplant bharta
***
roast turkey pinwheels, sage, paneer, chili tomato glaze
or
paneer and sage kofta, chili tomato glaze
served with
cumin maple Brussels sprout
tandoori cauliflower, spicy almond
kadhai potato, truffle cream
pumpkin and cranberry kulcha, sage butter
bacon kulcha, rosemary butter
christmas ham basmati pulao/ wild mushroom pulao
Antigal’s Malbec is number one. Well, it does kind of say so on the label. All kidding aside, Bodega Antigal’s Uno Malbec was the first wine launched by this young Argentine producer and proudly displays the number one on its label. Its iconic numeral and name were first applied at the wine’s launch party in 2005 when a designer crafted the number from a metal barrel hoop in an effort to celebrate this new release. The design was well received, and the name stuck. Consequently, they continue to “label” the Malbec Uno with a replica of that initial metal cut out, complete with rivets. These 1s are affixed by hand, assembly-line style, by local women who work in the winery. The back label is silk-screened directly onto the bottle. They admit that this is a very expensive way to adorn their wine but recognize that the package design is the marketing and thus very important to getting their brand noticed and known.
While the winery sits on the site of an historic winery, dating to 1897, in the Mendoza region of Argentina, everything else about it is new. In this regard, the winery facilities were constructed in the early 2000s, with an emphasis on high quality, high-tech equipment. Beyond the winery, they are heavily focused on Malbec, with a range of wines produced, including several single-vineyard wines. There are three unique vineyards currently under vine, with another under development.
Antigal began exporting its wines to the United States in 2007, choosing to push the on-premise trade over the retail market, feeling that its wines would do well by-the-glass as well as on full bottle wine lists. Of course, there are some retail stores that stock their wines. Since its early stateside arrival, it has successfully negotiated distribution contracts for all 50 states, which is essentially the equivalent of negotiating with 50 different countries given the U.S.’s state-specific liquor laws.
I recently had the opportunity to taste the Uno Malbec 2014 over lunch at Brasserie Cognac on a lovely summer’s day. Despite the propensity to pair a Malbec with a meat-based dish, I was more inclined to opt for lighter fare due to the season and selected the grilled octopus salad. I was not disappointed as the Malbec was extremely elegant and well balanced with ripe fruit. It matched well with the salad and didn’t overpower it.
Antigal’s newest addition to its line-up is its Uno Sauvignon Blanc 2018, which will be making its New York debut this fall, with an SRP of $15.00. Coming soon to a wine list near you.
TASTING NOTE Bodega Antigal Uno Malbec 2014, Mendoza, Argentina, $21.00 (retail)
Aromas of berries, smoke, slight wood greet the nose, all of which persist on the dry palate. Ripe, yet nicely balanced fruit dominates, joined by well-integrated oak, culminating in long length. Very elegant and food friendly.
