Category Archives: New York City

Michelin Guide Takes on Full Ownership of Parker’s Wine Advocate

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At a press conference for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, wherein they announced that Michelin Guide had upped its stake in the wine publication to full ownership, we were introduced to ten discoveries of the year from each of the magazine’s wine reviewers.

A South African Chardonnay had been chosen by Anthony Mueller (who focuses on South Africa and Washington State) for its precision and focus as well as the maverick behind the wine ‘s Lismore label, Samantha O’Keefe. He noted that the wine’s characteristics harken back to the grape’s Burgundian roots.

California and Oregon Editor, Erin Brooks, offered up a California Chardonnay from Mikey Giugni, owner and winemaker of Scar of the Sea. I was impressed by the youthful exuberance of Mikey as well as the depth of his wine. The 32-year old engineer turned winemaker uses old, neutral oak for his wines, resulting in an integrated wine, with a richness and roundness on the palate.

Editor-in-Chief, Lisa Perrotti-Brown, wanted remind readers that St. Emilion is capable of delivering elegance and finesse with her choice of Poesia coming into its own after having been purchased in 2013 by Helene Garcin-Leveque and her husband, Patrice. The wine is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc and provides floral, earth and mineral character on the nose and palate.

It was lovely to taste the Domaines Lupier La Dama, the discovery from reviewer Luis Gutierrez. And, interesting and fun to meet the winery’s owner, Elisa Ucar, who seemed familiar (and which I later confirmed), I had met when I visited Navarra back in 2011. A beautiful Austrian Riesling and elegant Champagne rounded out the tasting discoveries for me.

Established in 1978 by Robert Parker as a bi-monthly newsletter, with only himself as the wine reviewer, the Wine Advocate has grown significantly in the past 41 years, with 10 reviewers, 400,000 wine reviews and generating 30,000 new reviews annually. This recent acquisition by Michelin brings together enology and gastronomy and seeks to raise the global presence of the Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate brand, with an emphasis on emerging wine markets and an enlarged digital presence. It will be interesting to see what happens with this next chapter of this storied wine review publication.

LIST of WINES
Lismore Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2017, Western Cape, South Africa, $45.00
94 points

Scar of the Sea Chardonnay Seven Leagues 2017, Santa Maria Valley (CA), USA, $37.00
93 points

Chateau Poesia 2016, Saint Emilion, Bordeaux, France, $39.00
94 points

Domaines Lupier La Dama 2015, Navarra, Spain, $43.00
96 points

Martin Muthenthaler Riesling Viesslinger Stern 2017, Wachau, Austria, $48.00
Score not yet published

Ulysse Collin Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Roises NV, Champagne, France, $146.00
98 points

NB: Wines are listed in the order mentioned in the article; scores are from the respective editor.

Cultural Connections and the Art of Wine and Food

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I was first introduced to the new line of Ferzo wines from Codice Citra back in May. Produced from the estate-grown fruit from a collaboration of family-owned vineyards within the Chieti province of Italy’s Abruzzo region, these wines offer up great taste and value.

Specifically, the Ferzo name refers to “patches of fabric stitched together to create a sail,” and symbolizes the piecing together of numerous plots of vineyards, within the southern part of the Abruzzo region. 

The Codice Citra cooperative was founded in 1973 and focuses on local grapes such as the well-known Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo to more esoteric varieties. In addition to the Ferzo line, which made its debut into the U.S. market earlier this year, the coop’s portfolio includes three other ranges of wines (Citra, Caroso and Las Vitae.

In an effort to introduce more members of the press to this new set of wines, the winery’s importer, Winebow, hosted an unusual event at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Event guests were shepherded around the museum by Angelis Nannos of In Food We Trust, stopping at various works of art around the historic and vast buildings of the esteemed institution, all of which harkened back to humankind’s connection to food and beverages.

First on the “menu” was pickling during which Angelis regaled us of the story of St. Nicholas of Myra who saved three boys from being drowned in a pickling vat, one of the most ancient ways of preserving food that spans numerous cultures  such as Korean kimchee and Jewish pickles.

From there, we headed to the alabaster reliefs of the Assyrian Royal Court, which recount a dinner party held for 69,000+ guests! Meanwhile, the Tomb of Mektre showcased the everyday activities of ancient Egypt including baking.

We learned about New York City’s long association with oysters as illustrated by a stunning Oyster Plate from the Union Porcelain Works and then completed our tour in front of Edward Hopper’s Tables for Ladies. This painting recalls the period of history when nice women were not permitted to dine alone until some entrepreneurial restaurateurs created women-only dining establishments, which offered “Tables for Ladies.” Here, unaccompanied women could safely enjoy a meal without tarnishing their reputations. Painted during the Depression, the painting also tells the story of shows of abundance contrasted with the stark reality of the scarcity of food during this time period.

At the conclusion of our jaunt through the museum, we headed upstairs to the dining room to enjoy some actual food and wine. Among the Ferzo line, there are three whites produced from  20 year old vines  hand picked  indigenous varieties, namely: Pecorino, Cococcioloa and Passerina. These three wines are all fermented in stainless steel, ensuring that the wines are fresh and fruit forward without any oak influence. A rosato (aka rose) and a Montepulciano d’Abuzzo round out the range.

Most recently, with its emphasis on Abruzzo’s viticultural history and a strong commitment to high quality wine, Codice Citra has brought on winemaker, Ricardo Cotarella as executive enologist and partnered with Leonardo LoCascio Selections, as its exclusive U.S. importer.

TASTING NOTES
Ferzo Passerina 2017, Terre di Chieti IGT, Abruzzo, Italy, $26.00
The ancient variety of Passerina is not well known, but is on the path to rediscovery, given recent interest in the grape in Abuzzo, Umbria and Le Marche (where it is produced within the Offida DOCG). This wine has a beautiful floral and fruity nose, with flavors of white flowers, juicy pineapple, pear and tropical fruit. On the palate, it offers up bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Ferzo Pecorino 2017, Terre di Chieti IGT, Abruzzo, Italy, $26.00
With the same name as the Italian word for sheep, it is now thought that this grape gets its name from the shepherds, not the sheep, who were eating these grapes when out in the mountains. Almonds, minerality and hint of pear greet the nose. On the palate, this wine is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium+ body and is quite angular. Flavors of nuts and minerals dominate, giving the wine weight and depth, before culminating in long length.

Ferzo Cococciola 2017, Terre di Chieti IGT, Abruzzo, Italy, $26.00
The Cococciola grape is cultivated in both Abruzzo and Puglia and is frequently compared to Sauvignon Blanc. This wine offered up more fruit character than the Pecorino, with more pronounced melon, pear and citrus, a hint of waxiness on the palate and just a slight note of nuttiness. It displays nice body, good depth and long length.

Caroso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2015 , Abruzzo, Italy, $30.00
Not to be confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, this wine is produced from the Montepulciano grape, grown in the Abruzzo region. The wine was beautiful, with a rich and  fragrant nose of plums, with good acidity, integrated oak, soft tannins and long length.

Campania’s Sannio Wines Delight at Del Posto

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Although I am generally familiar with the wines of Italy’s Campania region, namely through visits to Feudi di San Gregorio and Mastroberadino, I had never heard of Sannio. Or, admittedly, if I had, it was likely memorized for a wine exam and then promptly forgotten. My mistake…and my misfortune for overlooking these wines.

Thankfully the error of my ways has been rectified, thanks to a beautiful introduction to these wines back in October. We were welcomed to a sumptuous lunch at Del Posto restaurant by Consorzio President, Dr. Libero Rillo, who provided some background on this tiny territory in the province of Benevento. But, despite its small size (~10,000 hectares), it is important to the Campania region. Here, the emphasis is on the indigenous grape varieties of Aglianico, Falanghina and others.

The Consorzio itself dates in 1999 and comprises 400 members. It overseas several denominations including Aglianico del Taburno DOCG, which produces red or rose wines, Falanghina del Sannio DOP, which is restricted to white and sparkling as well as the Sannio DOP which offers a full range of styles. An IGP Benevento or Beneventano also exists. 

The 10,000 hectares are allocated among nearly 10,000 wineries, including two cooperatives. Most are small and medium in size, producing a total of 25 million bottles annually among the IGT, DOC and DOCG designations. However, the consorzio is eager to increase its production, especially at the quality levels.

Attendees at the aforementioned press luncheon has the opportunity to explore the two vaunted denominations: Falanghina Sannio DOC and Aglianico del Tabruno DOCG, under the tutelage of Somm In the City, Sara Lehman. While the Falanghina grape has ancient roots, its name has much more modern origins thanks to the trellis poles aka “falanga” that were used to support the vines. The wine received its DOP status in 2013, and is known for its minerality, good acidity, and ability to age for 10-15 years, during which time it develops complexity. These grapes must be sourced from the hillsides where there is some elevation, which helps to avoid the humidity found on the valley floor.

The Aglianico del Tabruno DOCG harkens back to the Greeks who came to the area centuries ago, settling near Mt. Taburno. The wine’s DOCG status was bestowed in 2011 and comprises both red and rose wines. The rose, which doesn’t require any aging, is currently the only Italian rose to hold this designation level. The reds must be aged for a minimum of two years in wood and bottle, with the Riservas aged for three years in wood and another 12 months in bottle. These are powerful, tannic wines with complexity and good aging potential, known for aromas of blackberry, plum, violet and black pepper.

WHITE WINE TASTING NOTES
I deliberately limited my consumption of the Falanghinas knowing that we were going to taste a lot of reds with the seated lunch (we tasted 13 and I’ve included my notes on my 8 favorites). Accordingly, I limited my tasting to the sparkling Falanghina del Sannio DOP – V.S.Q. Brut from Cantina di Solopaca, which is one of the oldest co-ops in the area, with grapes sourced from the slopes of Mt. Taburno. It was refreshing, with good acidity and nice fruit aromas and flavors.

I also tasted the Mustilli Vigna Segreta Falanghina 2016, a wine produced from a cru vineyard known for its volcanic and limestone soils. It was rich and concentrated with good minerality and long length.

RED WINE TASTING NOTES
2018 Elena Catalano Sannio Aglianico 2018, Italy
This wine, produced solely in stainless steel, was youthful, with robust red and black fruit, firm tannins and good length.

Fattoria la Rivolta Pediarosso Taburno Sannio DOP 2018, Italy
Made from hand-harvested grapes grown on clay and volcanic soil, this wine offered up bright red fruit, lovely freshness and notes of pepper that lingered in the finish.

Cantina di Solopaca Barbera 2017, Italy
This wine is produced from 20 year old vines grown on clay and limestone soils on the slopes of Mt. Taberno, It offers up a very earthy nose, with a clay undercurrent and red fruit aromas and flavors.
  
Cautiero Sannio DOC Aglianico 2016, Italy
After moving to the city as adults, the winery’s owners returned to the countryside to pursue their love of wine and the land, choosing to focus on organic farming. The wine is tight and needs time, but displays nice black fruit and long length.

Terre Stregate Manent Sannio Aglianico 2016, Italy
This is a beautiful and balanced wine with lovely aromas and flavors of red fruit, earth and herbs, along with good structure. It spent 6-8 months aging in barriques.

Azienda Agricola Scompiglio Barbera del Sannio 2016, Italy
Lush and gorgeous on the nose and palate, this Barbera was floral in character with blueberry and blackcherry notes, lingering in the long length.

Azienda Agricola Castelle Aglianico Riserva 2015, Italy
As a Riserva-level wine, it spent the minimum three years aging in oak. It was lovely, yet tannic and will be better in time.
 
Torre del Pagus Aglianico Taburno DOCG 2013, Italy
This wine spent 12 months in oak, with another year aging in bottle before release. It was  elegant, with good structure and lots of red fruit notes.


A Sunday Fun Day with Bodega Eduardo Garrido Wines

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Compared to many other industries, working in wine often does not feel like work. Such was the case on a recent Sunday afternoon when I had the pleasure of meeting Amelia Garrido and her husband, John. Amelia is the winemaker for Bodega Eduardo Garrido, a small, 4-hectare family estate in Spain’s Rioja region.

The winery was initially founded by 1923 by Vincente Garrido, Amelia’s grandfather. While Amelia’s father, Eduardo, now 86 years old, is still actively involved, Amelia is now at the helm of the operation, expanding the range of wines they produce. In this regard, she recently crafted a beautiful, unoaked white from Viura grapes, Blanco 2018. It was a vibrant, fresh wine which paired especially well with olive tapenade, but easily married with the wide range of tapas on the table.

Hosted at the home of Amelia’s importer, Sunday brunch was infused with typical Spanish cuisine and warm camaraderie. We ate, we drank and we laughed. New acquaintances quickly became fast friends as we broke bread and shared a wonderful meal with one another. Amelia regaled us with wonderful stories about her grandfather who knew not to accept the offer of cheese when tasting wines since the cheese would mask any potential faults in the wine as well as that of her husband, joking that he proposed to her at the top of a hill when she showed him her family’s estate and he mistakenly thought that it was a much larger estate.

Admittedly, I didn’t take proper tasting notes because I was too busy having a great time, but I assure you that all of the wines were lovely! In addition to the Blanco 2018, we tasted the Joven 2018 (100%Tempranillo, 20% of which was aged in oak for 3 months), Crianza 2015, Reserva 2014, and Gran Reserva 2007.

In general, Amelia prefers to use older oak, eliminating extremes in her wines. She says that the most important thing is good grapes; everything else comes from that.

Tenuta di Lilliano: Noble Wines Approved by Wild Boars

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Situated in Castellina in Chianti, Tenuta di Lilliano has developed a well-earned reputation for crafting high-end, Chianti Classico wines. Its wines have been lavished with praise and high scores by Gambero Rosso, Wine Enthusiast, Doctor Wine and James Suckling, among others, but, most recently, its grapes received a resounding seal of approval when a 150kg cingale (wild boar) stormed through a stainless steel fence guarding the vineyards, just around harvest time!

The joint human and wildlife admiration for this 460-hectare, family estate is well placed. Purchased in 1920, it wasn’t until 1958, when then owner, Princess Eleonora Ruspoli Berlingieri, began to focus the estate’s production on quality. Interestingly, she hired a winemaker who did not drink wine, but who had an amazing palate and was able to create the best wines.

At the time, the Tenuta was unique in aging its wines in Bordeaux barrels and was one of the first producers to emphasize aging of their wines. Since then, the winery has continued to pursue its quality mission, building a new cellar in 1976, refining its agricultural approach (such as not mowing in between rows of vines) and reviewing its mix of varieties to hit upon the best expression of the grapes in their blends. In the winery, they take a light hand with oak, seeking elegance with only a little bit of wood, preferring larger, older vessels and firmly placing the focus on Sangiovese, the key variety of the region.

Sadly, the Princess passed away in the early- to mid-2000s, but Tenuta di Lilliano is still under the ownership of Princess Eleonora’s descendants, namely Giulio Ruspoli and Pietro Ruspoli, the former of whom runs the estate. With a vaunted heritage, the Ruspoli family traces its lineage to both Renaissance Tuscany and 17th century Rome, where the family continues to occupy the Ruspoli Palace. Recalling this esteemed background, the wines bear the joint coats of arms from the Ruspoli and Berlingieri families.

Yet despite these noble connections, the family is decidedly down to earth as evidenced by the warm welcome received by several wine writers who recently met with Alessandro Ruspoli at Marea Restaurant. Alessandro, son of Pietro, represents the estate internationally and was in New York to share his wines with the press and trade.

While Teunta di Lilliano produces a full complement of Tuscan wines and grappa, our agenda for lunch was squarely on Chianti Classico. Accordingly, we tasted the three levels of this wine: Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva and the newer, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. Each wine was beautifully paired with its own course, thanks to Brand Ambassador, Tony DiDio (of TD Selections)’s practiced palate.

A blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino and 5% Merlot, the Chianti Classico 2016 (SRP $20) was fermented in concrete and then aged for 12 to 14 months in large, French casks. It was paired with Fusilli served alongside a rich and decadent, red wine-braised octopus with bone marrow. The wine offered up clean and classic aromas of cherry, black cherry, leafy/herbal notes, giving way to lovely tannins and acidity on the fresh, elegant palate, culminating in long length.

Served with Polletto pan roasted chicken breast, fennel, artichoke and snap pea, the Chianti Classico Riserva 2015 (SRP $32) was produced with 100% Sangiovese and aged for 15 months in large French casks. Traditional in style, the wine is very elegant and long lasting, with red fruit, dried herbs, and noticeable, but well-integrated, wood/oak that lingers in the long finish. In the future, it is anticipated that the Riserva will become a blend instead of a mono-varietal going forward as they determine the direction of the Gran Selezione.

In keeping with the family’s forward thinking, Tenuta di Lilliano was one of the first properties to have a Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. Launched in 2010, this new, higher quality tier, requires longer aging and better quality grapes to qualify for the category. Alessandro acknowledges that it was created to shed light on Tuscany during a low time, but feels that they have wisely used the opportunity to develop a new, high quality wine, crafted from a particularly prized vineyard. In this regard, they have made a single vineyard Cru with 100% Sangiovese, with the intention of showcasing the the best expression of the variety, making a wine that is even better than their Riserva.

Presented with a trio of cheeses, the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2015 (SRP $36) displayed deep dark red and black fruit, with a beautiful hint of spice. Its palate offered up bright acidity, medium+ body, fine grained tannins and very long length.

It is clear that these wines honor Princess Eleonora’s lasting legacy and will continue to garner attention; they just need to figure out a better way to keep out the wild boars!


The Wonderful Wines of Domane Wachau

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On what was a long overdue visit to the U.S. (and only his first time in New York), Domane Wachau’s winemaker Heinz Frischengruber poured a collection of his wines for the media at Aureole restaurant. Owned by 250 families, the Domane Wachau estate is located in Austria’s highly esteemed Wachau wine region, which is an UNESCO heritage site for both its natural beauty and its culture. Viticulturally, the region is known for its cool climate, diverse soils, river influence and abundant sunshine.

Originally born and raised in the region, Heinz has been at Domane Wachau for fifteen years and has become an integral part of the team, focusing his quality efforts on viticulture and traditional winemaking techniques. Heinz’ family is also in the wine industry (his brother currently runs the family business), so he grew up with wine in his blood (or at least in his backyard).

Before arriving at Domane Wachau, Heinz previously worked in Germany, gaining experience at Geisenheim and also studied overseas as well to build his knowledge base. But, he had always wanted to work at Domane Wachau, which is very well known and respected in the area. Its 1,000 hectares are considered to be the best terroir in the region, many of which are situated directly on the Danube.  Here, the steeply terraced vineyards must be worked by hand; in fact, one-fifth of the vineyards are not accessible by tractor due to the vertical nature of the terrain. In recognition for the challenges inherent in maintaining such vineyards, an association has been created to save the terraced vineyards for the next generation.

With the region’s mosaic of different soil types, microclimates, higher and lower altitudes, Heinz loves to play with single vineyards. In this regard, he noted, “You have to know your soils,” in determining which style of wine to make. Further, he understands his grape varieties, explaining that Riesling can adapt even better than Gruner Veltliner, calling Gruner a luxury variety due to its heightened need for water. Yet, it, too, can be grown on a variety of different soils, producing a versatility in wine styles, attributing marked spiciness in the variety when grown on terraced vineyards and stone fruit with a rounder, fatty profile when grown on loess soils.

In the vineyards, there is a strong commitment to sustainable agriculture and biodiversity. When asked about climate change, Heinz reported that there has been significantly less rainfall and the occasional crazy high temperatures (greater than 35o C) in recent years. Accordingly, canopy management is more important than ever to shade the grapes, retain acidity and avoid burning.

Once the grapes are in the winery, Heinz declares, “I’m a caretaker, not a winemaker.” A big fan of traditional winemaking, he prefers to utilize skin contact to produce fresh, elegant and spicy (read a peppery note – similar to the pyrazines found in Sauvignon Blanc) in his Gruner Veltliners. This skin contact also gives some tannic grip that adds to the complexity of the wines.

As we tasted through a collection of wines at lunch, it was clear that these were well-made, elegant and concentrated wines that provided beauty, balance and bang for your buck. In other words, they were simply wonderful!

TASTING NOTES

Domane Wachau Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen 2018 – $18.00
Grown on steep terraced vineyards, this entry-level Gruner Veltliner offers up citrus and minerality on the nose. On the dry, medium-to-full bodied palate, it is rich and mineral on the palate with good acidity, stone fruit, peach pit and very long length.

Domane Wachau Riesling Federspiel Terrassen 2018 – $20.00
From the same entry-level line, the Riesling was more aromatic, with pronounced aromas of peaches, apricot, exotic fruit, pineapple, spiciness, flinty, and a hint of black pepper, which Heinz attributed to the soil. It was more concentrated, fuller-bodied and richer than a German Riesling, with medium acidity and long length.
Domane Wachau Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Ried Liebenberg 2018 – $25.00
Produced from the Ried Liebenberg single vineyard, which consists of very steep terraces and poor sandy soils, this wine offers up concentrated stone and mineral aromas. It was dry, but with riper fruit than the Terrassen GV, with apricot, stone, slight spice, displaying a structured, more terroir driven wine, with medium acidity, medium body and culminating in long length.

Domane Wachau Riesling Federspiel Ried Bruck 2018 – $25.00
Sourced from the winery’s coolest area, with grapes grown on south facing slopes, the Ried Bruck single vineyard Riesling greets the nose with white peaches, mandarin oranges, and marzipan. It had higher acidity than the Gruner Veltliner, with notes of smoke, petrol and wet stone on the long finish.

Domane Wachau Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten 2016 – $46.00
We finished the meal with the outstanding Achleiten, a very steep single vineyard made up of dark stones and flinty soils that fades right into the Danube. The resulting wine was well structured with good aging potential, dominated by peach and mineral aromas and flavors. The fresh palate was concentrated with long length and sufficient body and complexity to pair with heavier dishes such as duck or beef.

NB: Established in 1983, Vinea Wachau celebrates wines of provenance made only from Wachau grapes. There are three different (and hierarchal) style categories ranging from lightest to the most concentrated, each represented visually by an Austrian symbol to reflect the unique style and heritage of each wine.

Steinfeder: Feather
Lightest in style, with a maximum alcohol by volume (abv) of 11.5%.

Federspiel: Falcon
Medium bodied, with an abv of 12-12.5% abv, always fermented dry, elegant

Smaragd: Lizard
This highest category is reserved for dry, concentrated and complex wines, made from very ripe/late harvest grapes sourced from the best vineyards and fermented dry.

Who Runs the (Wine) World: Susana Balbo, Wines of Sicily and the Women in Australian Wine Awards makes the answer abundantly clear

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A flurry of events featuring the women of wine kicked off the season’s return after the summer hiatus. Admittedly, women in wine is both new and nothing new. As they say, behind every great man is a great woman. But, perhaps the more novel news is that women are now standing (in) front and center of (or at least next to) many men in the vineyards and wineries the world over.

While I missed it due to ill health, the Women in Australian Wine Awards honored the women who have made their mark in Australian wine. The world’s “first and only awards platform for women in wine,” was held on September 17 in New York.

Similarly, an event earlier in the month presented a wide range of Wines of Sicily, recognizing the women in this region. I had the opportunity to meet Lilly Ferro Fazio, Export Manager of Casa Vinicola Fazio, who shared her experiences in bringing together the women of her region and noting the challenges they faced amidst a very traditional/male-dominated society. She addressed the need to find support and resources to successfully manage both her job and the family household because her husband still expects her to fulfill a traditional spousal role in addition to her career.

Another wine woman bucking the trend of being a simple, stay-at-home mom, is Argentine winemaker, Susana Balbo who initially applied to study nuclear physics in Bariloche. Her parents would not permit her to leave Mendoza, but, not one to be deterred, she eventually became the first woman in Argentina to earn a degree in enology. By 2012 she had been named as one of the “Most influential women wine-makers” by The Drink Business magazine, and, six years later, was listed among “The 10 most influential women in the wine world” in the same publication.

Today, Susana Balbo produces wines in both Mendoza and Salta regions. Her wines are well respected and can be found in the market under two labels: her namesake Susana Balbo and her Crios line. The Crios portfolio recently underwent a makeover, sporting new packaging that emphasizes the wines’ elegance and classic nature. Available in four different varietal options, the wines were recently released in the New York market.

Crios Torrontes 2018, Cafayate (Salta) and Valle de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00
Pronounced nose with floral, tropical fruit, hint of cotton candy and a dry, yet ripe, palate with medium-to-full body, medium acidity and long length.

Crios Rose 2018 of Malbec, Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00
Notes of strawberry, cherry and watermelon greet the nose. The palate is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, culminating in long length.

Crios Malbec 2018 Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00
Deep in color, this wine displays fresh and dried herbs and blackberry aromas, which are joined by spice and red fruit flavors on the dry, full-bodied palate, with good length.

Crios Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00
The nose offers up lovely red and black fruit, which persist on the dry, full-bodied palate, with textural tannins, blackberry, black cherry, oak, with good acidity and long length.

What to drink in a heatwave: A Tale of Two Rieslings

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When you are in the midst of a heatwave in the height of summer, the last thing you want to do is turn on the stove or even leave the house. But, you still have to eat. Take-out is always a great option and the fresh and cooling flavors of sushi were exceedingly welcome this past Saturday night. We decided to mix it up a bit and opted for some more unusual rolls for a change, which provided a nice selection of flavors and textures.

To complement our delicious dinner, we opened up two Rieslings from Nik Weis’ St. Urbans -Hof estate in the Mosel. Both wines were the perfect pairing and we were hard-pressed to decide which one was better with which roll. So, we called it a tie. Either way, the wines were absolutely lovely and, at only $18.00 each, represented great value in high quality German Riesling.

TASTING NOTES

Nik Weis St. Urbans-Hof Estate Dry Riesling 2018, QbA, Germany, $18.00
While not new to the Nik Weis portfolio, this wine is new to the U.S. market; the Germans are finally ready to share their dry Rieslings with us! This wine showed pronounced aromas of floral, tropical fruit and peach, while the dry palate offers up high acidity with medium body, lime, zest, spice and minerality, culminating in long length.

Nik Weis St. Urbans-Hof Estate Estate Riesling from Old Vines 2018, QbA, Germany, $18.00
With a less pronounced nose, this wine displayed candied lemon and slight floral notes. Its off-dry palate was beautifully balanced with lively acidity, a fuller body, riper lemon fruit and long length.

Avery returns to the mountain to make great wines at Galil

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As a more recent addition to the Israeli wine scene, Galil Mountain was established by Golan Heights Winery (which produces Yarden) as a joint venture in 2000. With its emphasis on entry-level wines, it serves as a lovely counterpoint to those produced at Golan Heights. But, make no mistake, these are still well-made, high quality wines, capable of aging, despite their wallet-friendly price points.

Keeping it within the family, Galil Mountain recently appointed Michael Avery as a winemaker for the brand, who had previously worked closely with Victor Schoenfeld at Yarden for more than a decade. Michael speaks very highly of his mentor noting that Victor is one of the biggest contributors to the industry and, more personally, acknowledges how much he learned from him, including how to make sparkling wine.

Before arriving in Israel, Avery was raised on the family farm in Mildura, Australia, gaining exposure to grape growing and winemaking, which he then pursued formally, earning degrees in winemaking from Monash University and the University of Adelaide. Upon graduation, he worked in McLaren Vale for Kangarilla Road/Gemtree Winery, then later studied with an Israeli and decided to do a vintage in Israel. Not long after, Victor offered him a seasonal position, which Avery jokes was a really long vintage, staying on with Yarden until 2018. After a brief hiatus in Oregon, Avery returned to Israel to take on a winemaker role with Galil Mountain.

Avery is excited about the opportunity to work at Galil Mountain, which cultivates five vineyards to the north of the Sea of Galilee. Here, the high elevation of the vineyards (the vineyards are at 2000 feet above sea level), volcanic soils, good diurnal variation, moderate temperatures, limited rain, no disease pressure, good light and great air circulation all conspire to provide very favorable conditions for grape growing. Consequently, they are able to grow various varieties, ultimately producing a wide range of wines.

Like its sister winery, Galil Mountain is focused on sustainable practices, which it has adopted from the Lodi Rules program. Avery explained that while some organic and biodynamic techniques have been implemented, the over-arching principle is to take the practices that work best for their situation. Among the more specific practices that are used at Galil include lots of compost and soil management as well as the reuse of materials such as the couches at the winery made from old pallets.

Under the Galil Mountain brand, the winery produces three main labels: Galil Mountain, Galil and its flagship wines, which are blends created from specific vineyards. The percentage of grape varieties change from vintage to vintage, depending on yield and growing conditions. Journalists were introduced to these wines (and to Avery) at a recent lunch, held at Gramercy Tavern.


TASTING NOTES

Galil Mountain Rosé 2018, $19.99
Produced from a blend of Barbera, Sangiovese, Pinot Noir and Grenache, this wine offered up nice fruit aromas and flavors of peach, berries/strawberry, with a slight grip and long length.

Galil Sauvignon Blanc 2018, $19.50
Aged on the lees for added texture, this wine was lean and mineral in character, with a pronounced nose of citrus and herbs. It displayed bright acidity, with a slight hint of ripeness on the palate, culminating in long length.

Galil Mountain Grenache 2018
This fresh and fruity, yet balanced, wine was medium-bodied, with lively acidity, aromas and flavors of berries and cherries, along with medium length.

Galil Mountain Merlot 2017, $15.99
This unoaked red showed notes of plum and coffee, giving way to flavors of red berries, sage and bitter chocolate. It had a more tannic structure than the Syrah.

Galil Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, $17.50
Notes of dark chocolate, menthol and black fruit greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, along with good acidity and medium+ body.

Galil Mountain Syrah 2017, $15.50
With gamey and leather aromas, this wine is fresh and full bodied, with red and black fruit and long length.

Galil Ela 2014, 19.99
A blend of Syrah, Barbera and Petit Verdot, this dry red wine spends one year in French oak barrels, but was quite delicate with smoke and red fruit aromas and flavors, medium+ body and long length.

Galil Alon 2014, $21.99
This wine is comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, which have been aged in French oak for 12 months. With darker fruit, spice, slight cocoa, well ripened tannins and well-integrated oak, this was an especially lovely wine.

Galil Yiron 2015, $35.00
Bringing together Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot, this dry red was intense and rich on both the nose and palate. It spent 16 months aging in French oak barrels and displayed an elegant structure, with lots of red and black fruit notes.

From Régis to the Sublime: Piper-Heidsieck’s Changing of the Guard

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For over two decades, Régis Camus has been at the helm of Piper-Heidsieck’s winemaking, garnering admiration, accolades and awards (as Piper’s Chef de Caves, he has been named Sparkling Winemaker of the Year eight times by the International Wine Challenge jury). But, after 24 vintages devoted to the Cuvée Brut NV, it was time for a change.

Since 2000, Camus has included the company’s prestige cuvée, Rare, under his purview and was responsible for the creation of its rosé counterpart, Rare Rosé, first released in 2016. While Rare was initially the tete du cuvée, the wine has now become its own brand with increasing substance and status. Accordingly, as Camus turns his attention to all things Rare, Piper-Heidsieck has brought in new talent to take over its Cellar Master spot: Émilien Boutillat.

Admittedly, given Camus’ experience and expertise, these are not easy shoes to fill. However, the youthful Boutillat is no stranger to Champagne, having grown up in the region to a Champagne-producing family. In fact, his father worked with Piper-Heidsieck as a grower and Boutillat fondly remembers visiting the Champagne house as a child to ride the train that used to be on the property.

Following in his family’s footsteps, he studied enology and agricultural engineering, and went on to work harvests both at home and abroad. After building up a solid portfolio of experience with stints in Bordeaux, the Rhône Valley, Southern France, Chile, New Zealand, California and South Africa, he returned to Champagne as Cellar Master for Champagnes Cattier and Armand de Brignac.

In late 2018, Boutillat joined Piper-Heidsieck, working closely with Camus to better understand the style of the brand and learn how to make the blend. He is committed to maintaining the same style and excellence of the Piper brand, but is also looking forward to making his mark. In this regard, he anticipates making subtle changes as he adds his own personal touch, all while respecting the DNA of the brand.

More specifically, Boutillat notes that details are very important, and plans to focus on the vineyards more so than on changes in winemaking, looking at factors such as harvest dates. He is also dedicated to sustainable agriculture, with the intention of adding to the efforts already underway at Piper-Heidsieck. In particular, he will encourage sustainable viticulture practices among Piper’s partners and will raise standards in the vineyards.

When not at work, he performs with a local Improv theater group and is an avid hiker. Closer to home, he grows his own vegetables and enjoys cooking, always seeking to find a balance between the wine and food. Thus, it was a perfect introduction to him and the art of pairing wine and food, when he made his New York debut after nine months of “study.” At lunch at Hudson Yards’ Wild Ink, the current crop of Piper-Heidsieck’s Champagnes showed beautifully with the Asian-inspired cuisine and we had fun trying out different wines with each course. Although none of these wines were made by Boutillat, it was clear that he is up to the challenge and that the future of Piper-Heidsieck is in good hands.

TASTING NOTES

Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV, $45.00
Based on the 2015 vintage, the Cuvée is made up of 50% Pinot Noir 30% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. It is toasty and fruity with citrus and pear notes. The palate is rich and complex yet not complicated, with long length.

Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage NV, $60.00
The Rosé Sauvage uniquely drinks more like a still wine than a Champagne and is one of the darkest rosé’s on the market. It offers up dark red fruit and berries, along with smoke and sweet spices, with intense richness on the palate, along with great acidity and long length.

Piper-Heidsieck Brut 2012, $80.00
The 2012 is the most recent vintage; the last one was 2008. A 50-50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, sourced among the best grapes from Grand and Premier Crus vineyards, this is an age-worthy wine that can keep in the cellar for up to 15 years. Aromas of yeast, tree fruit, toastiness and cherry greet the nose, while the palate is very complex, seductive, generous and creamy, with the added flavors of honey and spice, culminating in long length.

Piper-Heidsieck Sublime (Demi-Sec), $55.00
This demi-sec dessert wine has 35 g/l of residual sugar, but is very balanced and elegant, with bright acidity and a citrus note lingering in the fresh finish. Aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, vanilla, mango, gingerbread and coconut made it a perfect pairing partner to dessert as well as spicy foods.