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Where everyday is Earth Day…Domaine Bousquet and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

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Earth Day has come and gone, but while the holiday is a reminder that we must protect and cherish our planet, a single day is obviously not enough to do so. To a very real and certain extent, EVERY day should be Earth Day!

Although we can find fault with many industries and organizations, within the world of wine, there are a number of important and impressive examples of wine regions and individual wineries who are making the investment and having an impact with their actions.

In particular, Domaine Bousquet stands as a beacon, having been organic from the “get go”. Along these lines, winery owner, Anne Bouquet refers to herself as an “Organic Revolutionary” and an “International Citizen”, both of which are well deserved and apt descriptors of her commitment to sustainability in all that they do. She is joined by lead winemaker, Rodrigo Serrano, in their quest to lead the region in organic viticulture and sustainability efforts. This “teacher’s soul” has been at the winery for the past five years, and is truly passionate about details in achieving these overarching goals.

The winery has been Certified Organic for over 25 years and has also been certified by Demeter and Biodyvin for its conversion to biodynamic viticulture. They have recently added ROC (regenerative organic certification) certification to their list of organic certifications and are 360 sustainable.

Equally telling, as of this year (2023), they are now a certified B Corp organization. “B Corp Certification is a designation that a business is meeting high standards of verified performance, accountability, and transparency on factors from employee benefits and charitable giving to supply chain practices and input materials.” (From B Lab) Some of their wines also are certified as organic Kosher, Vegan and Gluten-free.

Yet, they are not content to rest on their laurels; future endeavors seek to reduce their CO2 and H2O footprints, especially as there is less snow in the mountains due to climate change.

The winery is also expanding its focus to address other issues such as making low calorie wine, low alcohol wine and organic wine (as opposed to making wine with organic grapes, but with conventional winemaking). In this regard, the biggest challenge is to avoid using SO2, which is an antioxidant and anti-microbial, among other things. These expansions have been challenging, but rewarding as the results are finally realized in the glass.

Across the pond, the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano consortium in Italy’s Tuscany region has been similarly hard at work in pushing a sustainability agenda. The result of its hard work was its award of the Equalitas standard’s sustainability certification, making it the first (and currently only) Italian wine denomination to achieve this milestone. The certification trademark extends to the entire region and is the result of a program initially implemented in the early 1990s and then built upon over the years.

To receive this prestigious certification entails “compliance with a high number of environmental requirements (like biodiversity and the measuring of carbon and water footprints) and socio-economic requirements (like verifying that the principles of freedom of association and equal opportunity are respected).”

Among these efforts, in 2006, the consortium partnered with the municipal government to collect organic waste from the vineyards for use in the production of combustion biomass to supply energy to school and government buildings. Further, the region’s Carbon Footprint project became a national model in 2015.

Of course, these commitments are not at the expense of their commitment to making high quality wine. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is among Italy’s top designated wines having been promoted to DOCG status in 1980. Yet, it often gets overshadowed by its Tuscan neighbors: Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, whose wines also sport the Sangiovese grape.

The good news is that these wines are often well priced and provide great drinking pleasure. So you can feel good about their commitments to the Earth as you enjoy swirling, sipping and savoring them in your glass.

TASTING NOTES


TASTING NOTES: Domaine Bousquet

Domaine Bousquet LO CA Chardonnay 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $14.00
LO CA is a local calorie and low alcohol wine, which required numerous attempts to get it right due to ensure a wine that was stable and of the quality they desired. The resulting wine has 9% abv and 2% residual sugar. Green apple, musk and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate with high acidity, minerality, medium body and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Virgin Red Blend 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $13.00
A combination of 35% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Cabernet Franc, this wine is USDA-certified organic and sulfite-free. A fresh and easy drinking wine, it offers up berries, plum, floral and black cherry, with medium acidity, medium body and good length.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Pinot Noir 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00
Made with certified organic grapes, this wine took many years to perfect since Anne is very particular about her Pinot Noir. The time and effort were worth it with its complex aromas of smoke, tart cherry, and an earthy undertone. It is medium bodied with bright acidity and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gran Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00
A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec (both of which are certified organic), this wine presents notes of vanilla, oak, black fruit and a slight leaf character on the nose. With Medium+ body, good acidity, firm ripe tannins, and black and blue fruit, it is ripe yet dry, culminating in long length.

TASTING NOTES: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

A recent walk-around tasting event provided attendees with the opportunity to taste through a collection of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines as well as meet a few of the winery representatives.

Here are a few of my favorites (notes are limited):

Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot
Fresh, with decidedly herbal characteristics, firmer tannins and floral notes.

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2018, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Canaiolo and other authorized grapes
Meatier, with really nice depth and riper fruit.

Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy
70% Sangiovese and other red grape varieties
Floral, powerful, with darker fruit, less tannic than some of the other wines.

Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy
90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino
With complex notes of smoke, oak, black fruit, it has a lighter structure and texture, with a distinct cherry and leafy palate.

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Merlot
Rich and ripe with dark cherry aromas and flavors, firm tannins.

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2018, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Mammolo
Floral with lush, ripe red fruit, soft tannins and long length.

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
90-95% Sangiovese, 5-10% other grapes, including Canaiolo and Colorino
Cherry and plum, with dusty tannins, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano S. Caterina 2019, Tuscany, Italy
100% Sangiovese
Intense nose and palate, with ripe red fruit and long length.

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggio Stella 2017, Tuscany, Italy
mostly Sangiovese
Lovely and soft, with cherries, berries and vanilla.


Getting to Know Gavi

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Looking for a new (to you) white wine? While certainly not new – grapes have been grown in the region since 972 CE and specific mention of it dates to 1782 – Gavi is perhaps less well known, but definitely worth getting to know. In fact, at a recent seminar, “The Hidden Depths of Gavi:  Ageing Potential of Piemonte’s Great White “, moderator Walter Speller suggested that Gavi can “play at the level of Chablis.”

Produced from 100% Cortese grapes, the wine hails from southeast Piedmont, Italy (the same region known for Barolo and Barbaresco as well as Moscato d’Asti). This high-quality wine benefits from the continental climate where it can fully ripen in the hot, sunny summers, yet maintain bright acidity thanks to the coastal marin wind.

This great grape can be produced in several different styles, all while keeping within the rules and regulations of the Gavi Consorzio: Still (which represents 99% of all production); Semi-Sparkling (Metodo Classico, with six months aging on the lees); Fully Sparkling; and Riserva. In addition to adhering to lower yields, these latter wines must be aged for one year, with at least six months of that spent in the bottle.

Established as an official denomination in 1974, Gavi was promoted to DOCG in 1998. Yet, more historically, Gavi played an important role in trade. First firmly rooted in the Roman empire, the area was home to Libarna, which was founded in 2nd century BCE as an agricultural and viticultural city. Later, it became crucial to the Republic of Genoa, which served as a defense post and was instrumental in the salt route. The Genovese needed a wine that could be shipped from place to place and being due north of Genoa in the Alessandria province, Gavi became that wine.

More critical than its geographical proximity, Gavi was an especially good choice thanks to its stability. As a white wine with far less polyphenols – especially catechins – than others, it could be shipped to other areas without fear of damage to the wine.

Today, there are 1600 hectares cultivated within the Gavi borders, accounting for 60% of all Cortese planted within Italy. The vines are dispersed among 11 municipalities in the foothills of the Po Valley, some of which are designated as crus. There has also been an increasing focus on single vineyards as the producers seek to better understand their terroir. In this regard, they recently completed a comprehensive map of the territory.

Additionally, sustainable practices have been embraced by the Consorzio with an aim toward promoting organic viticulture and preventing erosion. This commitment has been further reinforced by its 2018 initiative, which monitors bee pollen to measure whether sustainable viticulture is actually being practiced in the region.

Within the area, Cortese thrives on the combination of red clays, white soils, with marl and sandstone, which display as minerality in the wines. In general, these are fresh, elegant white wines, known less for fruit and more for their floral, nut (almond) and mineral characteristics. Most of the wines are fermented in stainless steel, but a few producers do use wood and there has been an emphasis on indigenous yeasts since 2015.

Although the majority of white wines are meant to be enjoyed in their youth, Cortese is a grape that can sustain the test of time. In particular, thanks to the same chemical components that make them stable for shipment, these are wines that can develop beautifully with eight to ten years of age, yet still retain vibrant acidity. As evidence, the wines tasted at the above referenced seminar hailed from vintages 2013-2019 and all showed quite well.

VINTAGE CHART

2021 – 5.0 stars

2020 – 4.5 stars

2019 – 4.5 stars

2018 – 4.5 stars

2017 – 4.0 stars

2016 – 5.0 stars

2015 – 5.0 stars

TASTING NOTES

La Raia Vigna della Madonnina 2019 Gavi DOCG Riserva
Acquired by Giorgio Rossi Cairo and his family in 2003, La Raia is an organic and biodynamic property, with Demeter certification. Aged in stainless steel, with one year lees aging, this fresh wine displays apple, slight citrus and mineral notes, with high acidity, medium to full body and long length.

Tenuta La Giustiana Montessora 2018 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi
Founded in 1250, Tenuta La Giustiana is one of the oldest and historic estates. Montessora is a single vineyard. This is beautiful wine with wet stone, lanolin, orange peel aromas. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, along with depth and richness and a hint of chalk in the finish, with long length.

Morgassi Superiore Volo 2018 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi
Established in 1993, this small estate is family run, currently under the direction of sisters Marina and Cecilia Piacitelli. The wine is very tart, with lemon and mineral aromas and flavors, along with medium+ body, high acidity and good length.

La Mesma Vigna della Rovere Verde 2016 Gavi DOCG Riserva
Also a family affair, La Mesma is run by the Rosina sisters: Paola, Francesca and Anna. Notes of pear and apple greet the nose. The palate is dry, with full body, slight tidal pool notes and minerality, culminating in long length.

Tenuta San Pietro in Tassarolo Il Mnadorlo 2015 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Tassarolo
Named for the Benedictine convent that was located on the property in the 11th century, Tenuta San Pietro, the estate was purchased in 2002 by Corrado Alota, a Milanese entrepreneur. Hailing from a warmer vintage and with seven years of age on it, this wine displayed beautiful development with almond and caramel aromas. On the palate, it is rich and concentrated, with medium acidity, full body, and notes of peaches, beeswax, petrol and hazelnuts.

Villa Sparina Monterotondo 2014 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi
Winner of Wine Enthusiast’s European Winery of the Year for 2021, Villa Sparina has been producing Gavi since 1970. With grapes sourced from their cru, Monterotondo, this wine is intense, with a rich nose redolent of pear and showing some development. It is full bodied, with slight hints of woodiness, peaches and long length.

Bergaglio Nicola Minaia 2014 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi
This estate has been making wine since 1945 and is run by the son and grandson of founder: Jean-Luigi and Diego Bergalo. Sourced from grapes grown on the hilly Minaia site, situated directly behind the family cellar, the wine offers up honey, floral and lemon aromas and flavors with medium acidity, medium body and long length.

Broglia Bruno Broglia 2013 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi
The Bruno Broglia acquired his historic estate – La Meirana – in 1972, which is now managed by his sons, Gian Piero and Paolo. With a commitment to modern technology, it was the first estate to collaborate on clonal research related to the Cortese grape and it continues to conduct other studies in concert with local universities.  Despite being nearly a decade old, this wine is surprisingly fresh. It provides notes of citrus and mineral, with an undercurrent of anise, with good acidity, medium body and long length.


Collio, A C of Shining Wines

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I was recently invited to take part in a virtual tasting featuring the wines of Collio, an area I had had the pleasure of visiting in December 2010. With nearly a decade since that first introduction, I was eager to reacquaint myself with these wines. In addition to meeting with various winemakers on our trip, we had the opportunity to steep ourselves in the culture of the area. And, as we were reminded during the virtual event, it is this unique and varied culture that permeates the wines themselves. Of course, beyond the cultural influences, all wines are a direct result of the climatic conditions in which they are grown and Collio is no exception. Yet we were advised that, like an orchestra playing a symphony, the wines needed all of the instruments to fully shine.

Among our cultural endeavors, we toured the town of Aquileia, a city originally established by the Romans, who first cultivated grapes in the area. Presently a UNESCO World Heritage site, Aquileia’s Basilica, built in 1000 CE, had much of its history lost until they undertook renovations in 1909 and discovered an amazing 4th century mosaic floor hiding underneath the more modern structure.  

We also got a glimpse of the area’s war-torn history as we hiked along the mountain ridge of Sabotin, which served as an important part of the Isonza Front during WWI. Due to its topography, it was a key defensive point for the Austro-Hungarian army against the Italians in 1915 and 1916. As we trekked the rocky crest, I joked that if we fell off the mountain and died, we would be buried in either Italy or Slovenia, depending upon which side we fell. But, in all seriousness, this arbitrary border had kept families apart, pitting one against the other. Today, the Sabotin Peace Park honors those who fought and serves as a reminder of this historic period.

A further influence on Collio’s culture was the region’s roots in the Hapsburg empire. In fact, the area had been under Austrian rule until 1915 when it finally became part of Italy. This, coupled with its shared border with Slovenia, results in an interesting mix of cultures. Accordingly, local signage is often written in multiple languages – Italian, German and Slovene – and the cuisine is a blend of these national influences.

Nestled between the Adriatic Sea and the striking, Julian Alps, Collio is blessed with a moderate climate as the mountains protect the area from harsh winds, while its proximity to the sea makes it warmer than neighboring inland areas. Significant diurnal shifts ensure that the grapes retain their acidity while the soil imparts structure and minerality due to its composition of numerous layers of marl and sandstone (referred to as Ponca).

Part of the Friuli Venezia Giulia wine region, the C-shaped, Collio denomination is comprised of 7,000 hectares, of which 1,500 are devoted to viticulture. Within this small enclave, there are 350 wineries each growing an average of 2.5 hectares. Vines are grown exclusively on the hills (colli in Italian), with 17 different grapes cultivated. Primarily known for varietal, clean, complex and elegant white wines, which account for most of the production, Collio relies on both indigenous and international varieties.

The local Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit share a 2,000- year history, while the international grapes of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Bianco were imported to the area in the 19th century. Not surprisingly, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc have established a strong foothold here due to their overall popularity worldwide. In addition to the 17 varietally labeled wines permitted in the Collio DOC, there are two others: Collio Bianco and Collio Rosso for white and red blends, respectively.

Led by wine journalist Matteo Bellotto and Mitja Sirk, a local sommelier, the tasting featured an overview of the region as well as a guided tasting of six wines. As Matteo noted, it is through wine and food that the locals speak and they were excited to have these wines speak to us. Moreover, at the end of the event, Matteo shared that we had started as guests, but having had this experience together, we were now friends.

All of the wines we tasted were from the 2019 vintage. This vintage was a particularly good one given the lack of rain in September. Consequently, the wine producers did not have to rush to harvest the grapes, giving them a long maturation on the vine. In fact, the area is one of the rainiest, more often forcing winemakers to pick in August. Yet, despite the challenges that this wet weather brings, many Collio producers are committed to practicing organic viticulture.

As we turned our attention to the wines themselves, we were advised that it was a tradition to taste the Ribolla Gialla first, given its high acidity and higher alcohol compared to other local wines. Its freshness prepares the palate for what is to come.

Conti Formentini Ribolla Gialla 2019, Collio, Italy
One of the oldest producers in the area, the Formentini family purchased a castle in San Floriano del Collio in 1520 and has remained in the area ever since. This variety is often connected with orange wines, but is also produced as a white wine.

Tasting Note: Aromas of yellow plum and apple greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, along with high acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Ronco Bianchis Friulano 2019, Collio, Italy
This winery is under the ownership and direction of Giancarlo Palla and his sons, Alberto and Lorenzo. Its name is derived from “Ronco”, from the Friulan word “fianco, or side of a hill” and “Blanchis”, white, the color of its wines. Previously referred to as Tocai Friulano, now just Friulano, this indigenous grape is prone to producing high yields, yet it still produces well balanced wines.

Tasting Note: This wine displays distinct floral notes joined by pear. It is dry, with medium acidity, medium body, and flavors of peach, pear, and floral, culminating in long length with a bitter almond note in the finish.

Blazic Malvasia 2019, Collio, Italy
This family run winery has been producing wine since 1923. Also grown in Croatia and Slovenia, as a variety Malvasia requires more talent and patience on the part of the winemaker.

Tasting Note: Redolent of stone fruits, this dry wine offers up rich and ripe peach and herbal flavors, good acidity, full body, nice length and a citrus note in the finish.

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Pinot Grigio 2019, Collio, Italy
Established on land that was previously a monastery, Borgo Conventi was founded in 1975. It was purchased by the Folonari family in 2001 and was more recently (April 2019) acquired by the Moretti Polegato family who also owns Villa Sandi, a well-respected producer of Prosecco and Prosecco Superiore.

Matteo explained that Pinot Grigio can often be misunderstood. In Collio, it carries the identity of the terroir and is not an everyday wine as it is in other regions such as those from Alto Adige and Friuli. By way of illustration, Matteo depicted Pinot Grigio from Collio as the Beatles, while Pinot Grigio from elsewhere as Shakira.

Tasting Note: This dry wine displayed a lovely freshness and minerality, with medium+ acidity, medium to full body, and long length.


Toros Pinot Bianco 2019, Collio, Italy
With a long history in the area, the Toròs family first came to Novali in the early 20th century. Today, the estate is owned by Franco Toròs, who has focused his efforts on modern winemaking.

Matteo suggested that the region is just beginning to understand the potential of Pinot Bianco as it finds its own evolution in the terroir. As part of his signature in producing this variety, Franco always uses a small percentage (<20%) of oak in its production.

Tasting Note: With a slightly woody note on the nose, this dry wine offered up medium acidity, full body, a woody undercurrent along with apple and long length.

Polje Fantazija Collio Bianco 2019, Collio, Italy
The Sutter family has been producing wine since 1933, initially in Piave. They now have the Polje estate in Collio, which derives its name “from the characteristic local karst sinkholes.”

While the Collio Bianco DOC presently permits a blend of indigenous and international grapes (as in this one which brings together Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla and Sauvignon Blanc), this DOC will eventually be restricted to blends of indigenous varieties only.

Tasting Note: This wine has aromas of flowers and pineapple, while the use of wood in its production manifests as a toothpick characteristic on the full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.

Rediscovering the Many Faces of Valpolicella

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With its long history of wine production dating to the 6th century, Valpolicella is well known. Moreover, it has grown significantly in production over the past 30 years, from 1 million bottles annually to more than 40 million bottles (60 million if you include the full complement of wines). However, as sommelier, Filippo Bartolotta noted, it has been slow to catch up with its reputation, calling it an underdog in the wine world.

At a recent Valpolicella Master Class held in New York City at Café DiPalo, Bartolotta spent time providing a wealth of information to the assembled wine press and trade. In the end, there is a lot to know if one wishes to truly understand this wine, but it is certainly accessible and enjoyable without knowing all of the nuances that make up this family of wines.

Wherefore Art Thou Valpolicella?
Situated north of (the fair city of) Verona in Italy’s Veneto region, the Valpolicella production area comprises three zones: Valpolicella, Valpolicella Classico and Valpantena. Here, east of Lake Garda and protected by the Lessini Mountains, the area is favorably impacted by cool winds and cool nights that fix the color and aroma in the grapes.

Geologically, the area was formed 120 million years ago when two plates collided creating the Alps. The soils are calcareous, with the obvious presence of fossils and dinosaur footprints, imparting minerality to the wines. Volcanic soils are also present underneath the balsamic strata. More recently, major studies on how the varied soils impact on different varieties have been undertaken.

With regard to varieties, Valpolicella is produced from a combination of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara and other local grapes. As the starring players, Corvina and/or Corvinone can account for 45-95% of the blend, which is a recent change to the requirements. Corvina is known for providing backbone, structure and perfume, similar to Pinot Noir, while the thicker- and darker-skinned Corvinone lends power, color and structure to the wines. Rondinella, which is the other mandatory variety and permitted from 5 to 30%, adds both minerality and acidity. Up to 15% of other indigenous varieties can round out the blend.

What’s in a Name?
But, as Bartolotta emphasized, the story is much more complicated than climate and soil because Valpolicella is a wine about process rather than about a single variety or even several varieties. In particular, there are four separate wines produced under the Valpolicella umbrella: Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG and Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG. These differing wines are the result of the historical development of wine in the region. In addition, Valpolicella Superiore DOC are those Valpolicella wines that have been produced from riper grapes, along with one year of aging, which are fuller-bodied in character.

Perhaps the most recognizable of the four, Amarone is produced from the best batches of fruit, which are left to dry in in specialized rooms for a minimum of 100 days. This extended drying period concentrates the sugars and reduces the weight of the grapes by 40%. It is during this process that Corvina truly shines as it undergoes various enzymatic reactions that alters its DNA and ultimately changes its flavor. Further, the grape will defend itself against noble rot, releasing balsamic vinegar aromas. Regardless of the varieties, all of the shriveled grapes are then fermented to dryness, yielding a concentrated, full-bodied wine, which must be aged for at least two years. Amarone Riserva has spent an additional two years of aging.

But, before there was Amarone, there was Recioto, with 2500 years of history! Stemming from the word rece – local lingo for ears – it was the lobes of the berries which garnered more sun exposure and thus higher quantities of sugar. These sugar-laden sections of the grape bunches were dried for lengthy periods of time. Taking advantage of the cold temperatures, the free run juice would be put outside to stop fermentation, the process would then be repeated and eventually the yeast stopped working. Interestingly, the Romans would add sulfur dioxide to kill off the yeast, a practice still used to this day. With high residual sugar levels, these are a rich and decadent dessert wines, which are produced in minute quantities.

Under the less modern and, consequently, less controlled, winemaking conditions of the past, occasionally the result would be Recioto Scapa. If the wine didn’t stop fermenting, it became dry instead of sweet since all of the sugar had been converted into alcohol. Thus, Amarone was originally called Recioto Secco (dry). Taking its name from the word for bitter  – amar – Amarone became the official term for this style of wine as of 1936.

And, sitting somewhere in between Valpolicella and Amarone is Ripasso – translating as one more pass. In this process, Valpolicella wine is added to the leftover Amarone pomace, prompting fermentation to start again, creating wines with higher alcohol, more extraction, fuller body and greater concentrations of  phenolics and sweetness.

Please come and drink a cup of wine
With this wide range of wines under the Valpolicella name, there is a lot of diversity and opportunity to find the perfect wine for the right occasion. During the Master Class, we tasted the full complement of these wines, which provided a wonderful introduction to each wine/style. Some are more suited to casual cuisine, while the beautifully balanced sweetness of Recioto is great with (or instead of) dessert.

TASTING NOTES

Sartori Di Verona Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore 2015
Sartori di Verona is situated in the Negar area, with 50 hectares of vineyards. This wine sees no oak and is more about simple fruit flavors than complexity. It is dry with high acidity, medium tannins and flavors of cherries and a slight herbal note, culminating in long length. With its lively acidity, this is a great match for calamari or pasta pomodoro.

Novaia, Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore 2016 I Cantoni
This tiny producer has 7 hectares and its vineyards are certified organic. There is some volcanic presence in the soils and a small percentage of dried grapes are incorporated into the wine. Compared to the Sartori di Verona Valpolicella (above), this wine is more concentrated, with riper cherry fruit and more noticeable herbal character. It also displayed greater minerality, a fuller body, slightly lower acidity, lovely tannins and longer length.

Villa Mattielli, Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG 2015
Villa Mattielli is owned by Roberta Roncolato and her husband, Giacomo, a former F1 pilot. Roberta takes a modern approach to her winemaking, crafting robust wines, which are aged in French oak. This dry, full-bodied wine offered up lots of ripe black fruit, blueberries, dried fruit, a hint of oak and long length.  

Secondo Marco, Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2011
This winery’s name literally translates to according to Marco – in this case the wine is made according to owner Marco Speri.  The grapes spent 150 days of drying and then went through 45 days of fermentation and maceration, followed by 48 months aging in big Slavonian oak. It is very floral with aromas of rose and violets, as well as gunflint. On the full-bodied palate, it shows flavors of blueberry, blackberry, citrus, and an undercurrent of menthol. Overall, it is hedonistic, sensual, with a ripe sweetness, balanced with good acidity, culminating in very long length.

Villa San Carlo, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Superiore 2013
Home to a beautiful Venetian villa, Villa San Carlo was purchased by the Pavesi family in 1958. While they planted vineyards early on, they only chose to begin making their own wine in 2009. The oak aged wine offers up smokey, barbecue, earthy, mushroom and black fruit aromas, which persist on the dry, medium+-bodied palate. It has high acidity, good tannins and lush fruit and spice flavors. While not as complex as the Amarone, it provides good value for the money and is lower in alcohol.

Degani, Recioto Della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2016
Located in the Classico valley, the three Degani brothers took over after their uncle’s death, maintaining the vineyards and winery as a family business.  This wine offers up a complex and intense nose of dried fruit, prunes, raisins, burnt sugar, smoke and spice. It is medium sweet with high acidity, full body, yet is elegant, balanced, and beautiful with a fruit-driven palate along with hints of cocoa in the finish and long length. Filippo suggested pairing it with brownies with cranberries.