Category Archives: Wine

Chateau Maris, A Sustainability Story

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Reinterpreting the triangle trade in an eco-friendly and fair trade way, the Brittany-based Grain de Sail partners with organic and biodynamic French wine producers to ship the bottles to New York City aboard their carbon-free cargo sailboat. From New York, the boat heads to Central America where it takes on organic coffee and cocoa beans, which will be roasted and produced (respectively) by Grain de Sail’s operation in Brittany.

Grain de Sail’s most recent arrival in Brooklyn’s harbor included 1,200 bottles of “Naïve Wine” from Chateau Maris, a biodynamic producer located in the Languedoc. This is just the latest in a string of Chateau Maris’ sustainable efforts and decarbonized solutions, which became the first winery in all of Europe to become a Certified BCorp.

The partnership between Chateau Maris and Grain de Sail was a natural one (pun intended), since both companies share the same set of values. Equipped with solar panels, an insulated hull and a heat exchange system, the cargo ship is outfitted with the latest and greatest technology to ensure that the boat is ecologically sound and the products are safely transported.

Making the trans-Atlantic voyage in 24 days, Grain de Sail’s reliance on wind power makes the crossing 50x greener than sending the wines by the usual container ship. And, these days, with the backlog of containers in the U.S.’ Port Elizabeth, the producers can actually get their wines into the market faster, despite the lengthier trip (24 days via sailboat vs 5 days via container ship).

“If the wine sucks, the conversation ends.” ~Jacques Herviou

At an event showcasing both the sailboat and Chateau Maris’ “Naïve Wine”, members of the press had the opportunity to meet representatives from both companies, taste the wines and enjoy a beautiful Manhattan sunset.

Back in the day, Jacques Herviou, one of Chateau Maris’ three partners, used to sell high end wine such as Grand Cru Burgundy. But, during his visits to various less developed countries, he saw pollution and other environmental issues that upset him. Returning home, it became hollow to sell luxury products to the rich, sparking his desire to be a part of the solution instead.

In 1996, Jacques made the acquaintance of a New York-based investor, Kevin Parker, who is passionate about sustainability and biodynamic winemaker Robert Eden. The trio purchased the well-regarded Chateau Maris only to discover that they had been sold a lemon of a vineyard.

More specifically, they realized that the soil was completely depleted as a result of years of being poisoned with pesticides, insecticides and fertilizers. Thus, it was incumbent upon them to breath new life back into the soil in order to create a wine with life.

They experimented with various compost piles, treating one with a biodynamic preparation, which they found to be substantially better than the non-treated pile.
They became certified through EcoCert in 2002, by Biodyvin in 2004 and by Demeter in 2008. But, Jacques is quick to note it was a business decision to go biodynamic rather than a romantic or marketing one. As he so eloquently put it, “If the wine sucks, the conversation ends.”

These wines assuredly do NOT suck! Over the course of the evening, we tasted:
–Rose de Nymphe Emue 2021: A pale-hued pink, this rose is similar in style to its neighboring Provence and was crisp and refreshing with lovely fresh fruit.
–Naive 2020: The wine of the hour, having made its maiden voyage on the Grain de Sail, this Grenache-based wine has no added sulfur, yet it is stable and redolent of red fruit, with good acidity and medium body. It fittingly features a label with a drawing by surrealist painter, Henri Rousseau.
–Dynamic 2016: This beautiful Syrah is bold, full-bodied and meaty, yet still elegant with dark fruit and ripe tannins.

Beyond the vineyard, Chateau Maris strives to implement its sustainability efforts throughout the entire process. In this regard, as a certified BCorp, this commitment extends to the company’s governance, environment, community, workers and customers, which has led to its designation as “Best for the World” Environment in both 2017 and 2018. Moreover, Wine Spectator magazine has named it, “One of the 5 most environmentally friendly wineries in the world.” Further efforts include the planting of trees through Trees for Jane as well as donations to ASPAS to restore a wildlife area in the Languedoc and La Maison de l’ Abeille de Cassagnoles to preserve and protect the bee population.

Moreover, they are constantly looking at new ways to reduce their carbon footprint, which is why the partnership with Grain de Sail was such a good fit. Herviou was very pleased with the way that things had gone with the maiden voyage and was excited about Grain de Sail’s newest ship slated for completion in 2024, which will have a much larger shipping capacity. Wishing them all smooth sailing!

From Burgenland with Love: Food Friendly Reds and Whites

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Austrian wines are less well-known than those from say Italy or Spain, but they are definitely deserving of one’s attention. Austria had a wine scandal back in the 1980s, but with swift action, the implementation of stringent production laws and a re-dedication to quality, the country came back stronger than ever. Since then, further steps toward quality wine production, such as the creation of the DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) system in 2001, which designates regions, grape varieties and general typicity.

Home to three quality wine regions: Niederosterreich, Burgenland and Steiermark, there is a rich diversity in climate, soil and typicity among Austrian wines. Yet, they are all firmly focused on producing the highest quality.

Moreover, given the need to walk the straight and narrow in the wake of the scandal, for decades winemakers stuck to a completely clean style of winemaking, ensuring the consumer that their wines were fresh and unadulterated. Yet, today, with renewed consumer support and trust, winemakers have felt the leeway to experiment with more modern techniques and new styles, resulting in more diversity and modernity.

A recent tasting at Café Katja in New York’s Lower East Side was the perfect setting in which to receive a more formal introduction to the diversity of Austrian wine and, in particular, to Burgenland’s reds and whites. More specifically, the options offered up a sampling of different wine styles, both traditional and modern. With this aim, four different flights, each paired with a different dish prepared by Chef Erwin Schrottner, provided an opportunity to taste a selection of whites, lighter reds, heavier reds and a dessert wine alongside traditional Austrian cuisine.

Within Burgenland, the majority (52%) of vineyards are found nestled around the shallow Lake Neusiedler, which has an important climatic influence on the vines, moderating what would otherwise be a continental climate. This area is known primarily for its reds, which account for 56% of plantings, with Blaufrankisch and Zweigelt taking the top two spots. The cooler southern section of Burgenland is known more for its fresh, white wines. And, although international varieties are found in the region, the emphasis is on indigenous varieties, which might be challenging to pronounce, but are a pleasure to drink.

FLIGHT 1
The dill cured salmon with shaved cucumber and sour cream was presented with four whites:
*Zantho Gruner Veltliner 2020
*Thomas Straka Welschriesling Rechnitz 2020
*Kolfok Vulkan Alte Reben Gruner Veltliner 2019
*Heinrich Naked White 2018 (a blend of Chardonnay, Pnot Blanc, Muscat and Pinot Grigio)

The Naked White was my favorite pairing with the salmon for its smokiness, which echoed the smokiness in the cured fish, along with its freshness that cut through the oil of the fish.

In keeping with the shift toward less clean wine styles, two of the whites had been oak aged and one had a reductive quality to it.

FLIGHT 2
Roasted Moulard Duck with red cabbage and dumpling was paired with four “red delights”:
*Kolfok Querschnitt Rotburger & Co 2019
*Nitenhaus Blaufrankisch 2017
*Hareter Pinot Noir ohne 2018
*Falstaff Das Federviech Zweigelt Reserve 2018

I preferred the Pinot Noir with the duck for its gaminess, which matched nicely with the duck, but was very intrigued by the freshness of the Querschnitt, which utilized carbonic maceration in its production.

In this initial introduction to Austrian reds, we were advised that Blaufrankisch is usually more tannic than Zweigelt.

FLIGHT 3
Dry aged sirloin with vegetable linguine, cheese dumplings and a Zweigelt reduction was the last savory dish, served with:
*Prieler Blaufrankisch Johanneshohe 2018
*Iby Ried Hochäcker Blaufränkisch 2018
*Jalits Ried Diabas Blaufrankisch 2017
*Eichenwald Ried Durrau
Blaufrankisch 2017

Here, my pick was the Prieler, which was just lovely and had sufficient fruit, body and tannins to balance with the sirloin.

FLIGHT 4
A duo of chocolate mousse (white and dark), brandied cherries and pistachios was the final course. Featured with the “sought after” flight, it was accompanied by two reds and a dessert wine. In truth, I only enjoyed the dessert with the dessert wine, being very sensitive to the need for a wine to be as sweet (if not sweeter) than the food.

*Prieler Blaufrankisch Ried Mariental 2017
*Eichenwald, THE OAK Cuvee 2017 (a blend of Blaufrankisch, Zweigelt, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon)
*Heidi Schrock Ruster Ausbruch 2018 On the Wings of Dawn

While I did not enjoy these two reds with the food pairing, I did find them to be enjoyable overall and an example of some of the higher end reds coming out of Austria today. In this regard, the Prieler Blaufrankisch Ried Mariental 2017 garnered 97 points from Wine Enthusiast and retails at $108/bottle.

The botrytized Ruster Aubruch was lovely with honeyed sweetness, yet sufficient acidity to keep it from being too cloying and was a nice foil with dessert.

The key takeaway for me was that Austrian wines and especially those from Burgenland, offer up great quality, diversity and food-friendly options. There is a lot to learn (and, for the average consumer maybe too much), but ask your trusted wine associate to help guide you on your next trip to the wine store and you’ll open up a whole new world of wines.



 

A New Look at Long Island Wines

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With the first vineyard planted in 1973 by a young, starry-eyed couple fresh out of Harvard, the first seeds (or rather vines) of the Long Island wine region were sown. That couple, Louisa and Alex Hargrave, were true pioneers, bringing vision and bravado to their newly purchased farm. Much like the early English settlers that preceded them, Alex and Louisa came to the task with limited knowledge, but unlimited passion and drive, pushing them to succeed where others were sure they would fail. Before long, they were joined in their efforts by other adventurous souls, all of whom were in love with wine. As time flew by, a fledgling wine region was born, eventually becoming an internationally recognized producer of quality wine.

Today, there are 48 winery members of Long Island Wine Country, situated among the North Fork, South Fork (aka The Hamptons) and Long Island’s Western Suffolk County. The region has garnered repeated praise in both consumer and trade publications. Moreover, the bucolic region has retained much of its rural charm, making it a true escape from the hustle and bustle of New York City, located only two hours away.  Accordingly, the region makes a great getaway to visit the vineyards, taste some wines and stock up for the summer.

I have been familiar with Long Island wines since the early 2000s. In particular, when I first joined the wine industry in mid-2005, I set up a wine education business in Mattituck, adjacent to Macari Vineyards.  As our lives changed, we sold our Long Island real estate in 2013 and have only been back to the region a handful of times since then (see Island Wines), not for any other reason that being busy with other things. For me, Long Island wines are the jewel in New York State’s vinous crown, with high quality wines, exciting innovations in winemaking and warm-hearted people. At nearly 50 years old, the region has indeed found its footing and honed its knowledge of the terroir. Thus, it was a pleasure as well as a trip down memory lane as I recently tasted through a half case of Long Island wines.

TASTING NOTES

Sparkling Pointe Topaz Imperial Rose 2019, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $44.00
Produced in the same method as those from Champagne, this wine was produced with 50% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir and 16% Pinot Meunier, the same grape varieties used in that vaunted region. Sparkling Pointe is dedicated solely to sparkling wines and with few things more festive than bubbles, it was the perfect way to ring in the new year when we spent New Year’s Eve at the winery one year. More recently, we enjoyed the wine for an at-home date night of oysters, charcuterie and cheeses. The nose offers up intense fruit character of raspberry and strawberry, while the palate displays a fine and persistent perlage, good acidity, and lovely fruit flavors, culminating in long length.

Anthony Nappa Wines, Frizzante NV, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $22.00
Originally a winemaker for Shinn Estate (now known as Rose Hill Vineyards), Anthony launched his own eponymous brand in 2007 and has been pushing the envelope since the beginning as evidenced by his white Pinot Noir aptly named Anomaly. This blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 30% Viognier, 25% Moscato Giallo, undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle and is then aged sur lie (known in Italy as the Col Fondo method) yielding a lightly sparkling wine (hence the name frizzante). Somewhat cloudy, thanks to the production methods, this wine shows aromatic fruit and floral notes, slightly reminiscent of cider, on the nose and palate, with slight effervescence, good acidity, depth and concentration, and long length.

Macari Sauvignon Blanc “Katherine’s Field” 2016, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $24.00
The Macari family has been active in the region since 1960s, planting vines in 1995. The third generation of the family is now involved in the business. Today, they are firmly focused on sustainability and implement biodynamic farming practices in the vineyards. This 100% stainless steel fermented, Sauvignon Blanc shows slight smoke, citrus and tropical fruit on the nose. Citrus and tropical fruit persist on the dry palate, joined by a hint of savory herbal notes, with fresh, crisp acidity, a slight prickle, and long length.

Also see this story.

Peconic Bay Vineyards Riesling 2020, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $28.00
One of the first wineries we visited back in the day was Peconic Bay winery. The winery has recently re-opened after a lengthy closure, but vines were tended to during this interim period, so there is no loss to the quality of the fruit. Peconic Bay has always been well respected for its Riesling, which is classic in nature. slightly off dry, but mostly dry, crisp acidity, medium body, long length.

McCall Wines, Estate Pinot Noir 2015, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $30.00
As part of his efforts to save the farmland adjacent to his family’s property from the threat of development, Russ McCall planted his fields with twenty-one acres of vineyards, eventually making his first wines in 2007. The tasting room opened in 2010. I have a been a big fan of his Pinot Noirs since I first tasted them, and they continue to impress me. This latest bottle was no exception. Beautiful notes of earth and herbs greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, joined by tart cherry and berry flavors, with good acidity, medium body and long length.

The Lenz Winery, Estate Selection Merlot 2015, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $35.00
Originally established by the Lenz family, in 1988 the winery was sold to Peter and Deborah Carroll who have continued to maintain the highest standards for their wines, pitting them against world renowned wines in blind tastings where they hold their own and then some. The winemaking team is led by Eric Fry, who has been with Lenz since 1989. This lovely Merlot offers up smoky, plum and coffee notes on the nose, which persist on the palate, which is dry, with medium body, medium+ acidity, and long length.

Stuck at home for Holiday 2021? Your Plan B awaits…

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Baby, it’s Covid outside! With the Omicron variant running rampant, the number of people testing positive for the Covid virus has increased significantly these past few weeks.

For many, that means that long-awaited holiday plans to go out and celebrate or to visit loved ones might have to be postponed yet again. It is certainly regrettable, but, your Plan B doesn’t have to feel like one.

Recovering from Covid this past weekend, my husband and I were forced to cancel our date night plans for our health and the safety of others. We were, of course, disappointed to be stuck at home for the duration of the weekend (and beyond), but, as I was finally feeling better, we wanted the opportunity to enjoy a festive evening.

Cue the goodies we recently purchased from Gourmet Food Store. What the online store lacks in creativity, it makes up for in a large selection of treats from cheeses and charcuterie to caviar and candy and a lot of other yummy items.

Taking advantage of the store’s Thanksgiving weekend sale, I had stocked up on caviar, blini, Serrano ham, escargot and chocolates. Thus, we were nearly there with our delicious feast. We added some cheeses we already had in the fridge, drizzled on some high end Balsamic vinegar and, equally important, opened up a bottle of bubbly!

It was a wonderful evening of decadence as we sipped and savored the Champagne, connected with each other and simply enjoyed our gourmet goodies. Not so bad for Plan B!


Bruno Paillard Extra Brut Première Cuvée SRP $60, Champagne, France, $60
Aromas of bruised apple, toast and slight nuttiness greet the nose. There is a hint of fruit on the attack, but it is generally dry on the palate with crisp acidity, a creamy mousse and persistent perlage, culminating in very long length.



Alentejo wines are ones to watch

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While many people think of Italy, France and Spain when they think of wine, they may be limited in their ideas about Portugal. Yes, Portugal is home to rich, luscious dessert-worthy Port, but the country also produces a wide range of still and sparkling wines. In fact, Portugal has a 2,000-year history of winemaking. Moreover, when Portugal joined the EU in the mid-80s, winemakers were given access to EU funds that permitted them to invest in, and ultimately improve, their vineyards and wineries. And, the wines are still relatively inexpensive, meaning that you can enjoy a great bottle of wine at a great price!

Within Portugal, there are 13 regions that cover the full geography of the country, inclusive of its islands. Among these is Alentejo, just 90-minutes east of Lisbon, which is where the majority of cork comes from. Like the rest of the country, has a lengthy tenure in the wine world with its viticultural roots dating back to the Romans. It was further influenced by the Tartessians, the Phoenicians, and the Greeks.

The region of Alentejo and its 8 sub-regions.

Unfortunately, Alentejo was forced to uproot many of its vineyard under the Salazar dictatorship (1933-74) and replace them with wheat. Yet, despite this setback, the region has held onto its traditional winemaking practices and, aside from Georgia, is the only region where the use of amphorae has been utilized without interruption for several thousand years. In its current renaissance, the region has continued to focus on these traditional winemaking techniques such as the use of concrete casks and lagares.

Today, this relatively flat region is home to a hot, Mediterranean climate and boasts over 250 native grape varieties; the most prevalent being Antao Vaz, Arinto and Roupeiro among the whites and Alfrocheiro, Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, Castelao, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira among the reds. The international varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are also widely planted.

Additionally, Alentejo has been a big proponent of sustainable agriculture, earning international recognition (including the Drinks Business‘ Green Award 2020) for WASP (Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Program), members of which account for ~50% of Alentejo’s vineyard area. More specifically, the WASP program incorporates both agricultural and vinification aspects, but also includes an emphasis on reducing costs, increasing economic viability, environmental issues and social concerns.

With its twin emphasis on honoring its history and implementing forward-thinking practices, Alentejo wines are definitely ones to watch!

TASTING NOTES

Casa Relvas Herdade São Miguel Rosé 2020, SRP $15
Founded in 1997, Casa Relvas is a family winery with two generations currently involved. This lovely Provencal-style rose is produced from the indigenous Touriga Nacional, along with smaller quantities of Syrah, Aragonez and others. Pale onion skin in color, it has a lovely yeasty note on the nose thanks to its sur lie aging. It is redolent of unripe berries and melon and is dry, fresh, and clean on the palate with long length.

Cartuxa EA Red 2018, SRP $9
Initially founded in 1963, the Fundacao Eugenio de Almeida private foundation whose mission is to aid the development of the Evora region. Among its tasks, it is responsible for running the estate and winery, which has been in the Eugenio de Almeida family since the 19th century. This wine is a blend of 35% Aragonez, 30% Trincadeira, 20% Alicante Bouschet and 15% Syrah, and offers up jammy red fruit aromas, slight earth and menthol notes. On the palate, it is dry, very fruit forward with medium+ to full body, medium acidity, soft tannins, flavors of red fruit and earthy and good length.


Herdade do Rocim Amphora Tinto 2019, Alentejo, Portugal, SRP $18 The culmination of a dream, Herdade do Rocim was established by Fernando Pessoa whose estate includes both vineyards and olive groves. Produced from a blend of indigenous varieties (including Moreto, Tinta Grossa, Trincadeira and Aragonez), utilizing a large, clay pot in which to ferment the grapes, this wine draws on a 2,000+ year old tradition of amphora wines. The result is a beautifully complex wine with aromas of berries, cranberry, plum and slight spice. The dry palate displays good acidity, medium body, medium tannins, with lots of fresh red fruit and spice, culminating in long length.

Adega de Borba Premium Red 2017, $15
Created in 1955, Adega de Borba was among the first wineries to be part of the national wine planning agency (Junta Nacional do Winho) at a time when wine was less important to the area’s economy. Yet, with time, the winery has sustained itself to its current position of 300 grape growers who cultivate nearly 2,000 hectares of grapes, 70% dedicated to red varieties and 30% to white. The winery is situated with Borba, a sub-region of Alentejo and is home to some of the oldest vines in the area. Bringing together Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouscht and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine offers up lots of red fruit and spice, which persist on the full-bodied palate and are joined by notes of oak and darker fruit, with long length.

CARMIM Monsaraz Reserva Red 2018, SRP $16
The well-respected Cooperativa Agrícola de Reguengos de Monsaraz (aka CARMIM) was created in 1971 and currently counts 900 growers among its membership. With 24 different wines produced, it has quite a diverse portfolio. The wine has a pronounced nose of meat, smoke and red and black fruit that gives way to a dry palate with medium acidity, full body, robust black raspberry, oak, smoke and long length.

NB: All of the above wineries are members of WASP.

    Alto Adige wines hit the spot on a hot summer’s day

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    Alto Adige continues to have a soft spot in my heart and a warm welcome on my palate. These wines are typically expressive, while inexpensive, providing good price to quality ratio. They are also food friendly and quite refreshing.

    The smallest of Italy’s wine regions, Alto Adige produces high quality wines, but accounts for only 0.8% of all Italian wine production. The majority of these vineyards are situated on steep slopes with a patchwork of many, tiny plots owned by many different families. Given the challenges that the topography imposes on grape growing, coupled with the need for economies of scale, a large percentage of the region is managed by cooperatives.

    Two such cooperatives are Cantina Girlan and Cantina Colterenzio. Cantina Girlan got its start in 1923 with 23 families gathering together to produce wine in the region. Today, the winery is home to 200 families, representing a total of 230 hectares of vineyards. Established somewhat later (1960) Colterenzio counts 300 winegrowers among its members and manages 300 hectares of vineyards. The two wineries produce both red and white wines, with a higher proportion of whites, given the high altitude climate.

    These two options are excellent at the dinner table and are a nice respite from the heat and humidity of the dog days of summer.

    TASTING NOTES

    Cantina Colterenzio Cora Pinot Bianco 2020, Alto Adige, Italy, $18.00
    Aromas of spice, citrus, and smoke greet with nose, with crisp acidity, medium+ body, and notes of chalk,
    citrus and spice on the dry palate, culminating in long length

    Cantina Girlan Pinot Grigio 2019, Alto Adige, Italy, $16.00
    On the nose this wine displays notes of marzipan and citrus which persist on the fresh and clean, dry palate with medium+ body and long length.

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    A very Merry and bright future ahead

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    Over the past year-plus, I have had the privilege of becoming familiar with the Merry Edwards Winery and its wines. Tasting through the single vineyard Pinot Noirs, I continue to be impressed with the quality, character and elegance of these various expressions of this grape as influenced by each unique terroir. 

    As I discovered during the Gary Farrell tasting, the Russian River Valley has such a diversity of microclimates that the Russian River Valley Winegrowers have created six smaller areas they refer to as neighborhoods within the boundaries of the region to more accurately reflect these differences.

    In this regard, the most recent selection of wines I tasted included selections from four different vineyards, including Georganne (Middle Reach), Olivet Lane (Santa Rosa Plains), Klopp (Laguna Ridge) and Coopersmith (Laguna Ridge), as well as the Russian River Valley Pinot, which is produced from grapes sourced from throughout the Valley.

    Of course, while the vineyards’ locations within a given neighborhood (and hence microclimate) will influence the finished wine, it is also the soil, site and other growing factors that make the wines from each vineyard unique from another.

    In addition to the beauty within each bottle, the most recent releases also sport new labels. These new designs preserve the spirit of the original, while freshening up the brand’s look. More importantly, the intention is to focus on the future with a positive outlook and much hope.

    At a time when things are so in flux, we could all use more hope and desire for a bright future. As Merry Edwards Winery continues to craft such amazing wines, its future is bright indeed!

    These wines are a perfect way to celebrate National Pinot Noir Day (August 18). Plus, you can participate in a special virtual tasting featuring Merry Edwards’ winemaker, Heidi von der Mehden, and Karen MacNeil, author of the “The Wine Bible,”

    The two will be live on Zoom on Wednesday, August 18th @ 4 PM PDT and will taste:
    – 2019 Merry Edwards Meredith Estate Pinot Noir
    – 2019 Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
    – 2019 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

    If you wish to participate in this free event, register in advance online: https://www.merryedwards.com/special-offers

    TASTING NOTES

    These wines are available for purchase on the Merry Edwards’ website.

    Merry Edwards Winery Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley(CA), US, $60.00
    Spice and floral aromas greet the nose. The dry, yet juicy, palate offers up bright acidity, ripe raspberries, rhubarb, an herbal undercurrent, along with soft tannins, medium body, and very long length.

    Merry Edwards Winery Coopersmith Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), US, $73.00
    This vineyard, originally an apple orchard, was purchased by Merry and her husband (Ken Coopersmith) in 1999 and planted it to Pinot in 2001. Earthy, cherry and cocoa notes greet the nose and persist on the palate, with high acidity, medium body, soft tannins and very long length.

    Merry Edwards Winery Georganne Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley, $70.00
    Merry first leased this vineyard in 2006 from Georganne and Bob Proctor. As a sign that this collaboration was meant to be, Ken and Merry’s middle names are George and Ann, respectively. On the nose, this wine presents smoky, earthy and herbal aromas, with a generous palate of rich, round fruit — raspberries and cherries — joined by
    herbaceous and a slight menthol note, with medium acidity, medium body, and very long length.

    Merry Edwards Winery Klopp Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), US, $74.00
    Originally planted in 1989, Merry has been involved with this vineyard from the very beginning. With the small berry clusters that this vineyard produces, the wines generally provide dark fruit and earthy notes. Aromas of dark cherries and blueberry persist on the dry palate, along with hints of herbs and earth, vibrant acidity and medium+ body, culminating in very long length.

    Merry Edwards Winery Olivet Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), US, $80.00
    Planted in 1973, Merry has been producing an Olivet Lane Pinot since 1997. On the nose, this wine displays floral, cherry and dried herbal notes. The palate is dry with medium+ acidity, firm, ripe tannins and medium+ body, with rich and concentrated tart cherry, herbs, earthy, and a black tea undercurrent, with very long length.

    Gary Farrell Winery, the single vineyards and its neighborhoods

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    As a pioneer of the Russian River Valley (in Sonoma, CA), Gary Farrell kicked off his wine career in the late 1970s with an emphasis on cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Working along with fellow vintners including Davis Bynum, Joe Rochioli and others, together they helped put this (now) prestigious area on the map.

    The Gary Farrell label itself was launched in 1982, with the first wine produced with fruit from the Rochioli Vineyard. This set the stage for what was to follow – crafting wines from other people’s grapes. In fact, to this day, Gary Farrell doesn’t own any of its own vineyards; all of the fruit is “contracted” from various vineyards throughout the Valley – many with a simple handshake agreement. In this regard, Gary Farrell Winery has worked closely with many winegrowers for decades, currently sourcing grapes from about 36 vineyards, most (if not all) of which practice certified sustainable farming.



    Sold in 2004, the winery is presently owned by Bill Price and a group of industry investors, keeping the same focus on pure expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Since 2012, the winery’s winemaking has been under the direction of Theresa Heredia, a California native with a bachelor’s degree in biochemistry from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo.

    Heredia initially sought to leverage her love of science and her desire to share her knowledge through the pursuit of a Ph.D. However, during her graduate studies, she became fascinated about the research being conducted on the chemistry of wine by her fellow grad students. With a love of drinking wine already firmly entrenched, the discovery of wine science now called to her, and she transferred into the enology program three days later. She eventually left U.C. Davis to become a winemaker.

    Over the next several years, Theresa gained experience at Saintsbury and Joseph Phelps’ Freestone Vineyards and also

    developed a Burgundian approach through her work at Domaine de Montille. Thus, she came to her current role with a solid background in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as well as single-vineyard wines.

    Thus, it is not surprising that upon Heredia’s arrival at Gary Farrell, the company shifted focus from one, single vineyard wine to 36 single vineyards, with the intention of showing the full expression of the Russian River Valley’s various vinous neighborhoods. In this regard, Heredia tailors her winemaking to the vineyard at the time of harvest. As she notes, her philosophy is to always respect the fruit.

    A recent tasting provided an in-depth look at several of Gary Farrell’s single vineyard wines in an effort to compare and contrast the differing “neighborhoods” within the larger Russian River Valley. And, while the vineyards are not technically sub-AVAs, they do act as such, with distinct soil compositions, microclimates and clonal types, all of which impact the style of the resulting wine.

    The wines tasted were all from the 2017 vintage, which sport new, blue labels to more easily distinguish these single vineyard wines from the company’s Russian River Selection wines. More specifically, the blue label designates a single vineyard. Two of the single vineyards have national distribution; the others are only available through the winery.

    TASTING NOTES
    CHARDONNAYS
    All of the Chardonnays are 100% malolactic fermented, thereby converting the sharper, malic (think apple) acid into the creamier lactic (think milk) acid. The wines were barrel fermented in lightly toasted barrels about 30% and then aged for 8 to 9 months in oak barrels, 35% of which was new oak. The puncheons undergo a long, light toast, which imparts creaminess and richness, while minimizing oak influence. The overall goal is to accentuate the fruit, not mask it with wood.

    Gary Farrell Winery Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $45.00
    The Olivet Lane Vineyard is situated within the Santa Rosa Plains a unique, flat area with cold air that settles at night yielding wines with concentrated fruit, texture, and vibrant and juicy acidity. The vineyard was planted in 1975 with the Wente clone, which clone produces small berries.
    The wine offered up aromas of apple and well-integrated oak, which persist on the dry palate, along with baking spices. The elegant wine displays medium+ acidity, medium+ body and long length.

    Gary Farrell Winery Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $60.00
    The Ritchie Vineyard hails from Laguna Ridge, which is located in the center of the Valley, thereby taking on characteristics of each adjacent area. The wines are generally packed with flavors, tremendous intensity and are more opulent and less acidity driven. The legendary Ritchie Vineyard was first planted in 1972. The selection of Chardonnay planted here develops hens and chicks (grapes of uneven sizes in the same bunch), which requires careful pressing.  Aromas of apple, citrus, smoke and oak greet the nose. The dry palate shows medium+ acidity, medium+ body, and flavors of golden apple, citrus/orange and very long length.

    Gary Farrell Winery Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
    The history between Rochioli Vineyard and Gary Farrell dates back 38 years, a vineyard found within the Middle Reach area. This northern part of the Russian River Valley, up near Healdsburg, is adjacent to the Russian River, which pulls fog and keeps nights cool. Meanwhile, the days are much warmer. Consequently, the resulting wines are typically riper with more tropical fruit. This wine provides notes of citrus and stone fruit on both the nose and dry palate. Richer and riper than the other two, this wine displays juicy acidity, fuller body, with flavors of citrus and wood, culminating in very long length. 

    PINOT NOIRS

    Gary Farrell Winery Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
    Also found within the Middle Reach area, the Bacigalupi Vineyard was established in 1964 when Helen and Charles Bacigalupi planted it to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and later claimed fame as the growers of the grapes used by Chateau Montelena’s winning wine in the Judgement of Paris in 1976. Pinot Noir from Middle Reach usually offers up notes of cherry, rose petals, floral, raspberries, and a general supple expression of fruit and earthiness. With aromas of red cherries, smoke and dried flowers, this wine is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, and flavors of spice, earth, cherry, giving way to long length.


    Gary Farrell Winery Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Green Valley/Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $55.00
    The Hallberg Vineyard takes its name from its previous owners and sits within Green Valley, which is actually an official sub-AVA of the Russian River Valley. Thanks to the Green Valley’s proximity to the Pacific Ocean, it is drenched in fog from the afternoon until the following morning. Resulting wines most frequently display an earthy backbone with bright acidity and darker fruit such as cassis and huckleberry. Aromas of black raspberry, blackberry and earthiness persist on the dry palate, along with bracing acidity, medium body and very long length.

    Gary Farrell Winery McDonald Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $70.00
    Situated within Sebastopol Hills, the McDonald Mountain Vineyard is at the southern tip of the Russian River Valley, with exposure to the Petaluma Gap. Known as the “heartbreak vineyard,” yields are very low and there is natural desiccation due to lots of wind, fog and cool weather. Additionally, the clonal selection results in tiny clusters. The key characteristic of these wines is an acid backbone, with less fruit, more earth character.
    The nose offers up notes of earth, black tea, cassis, raspberry and exotic spice, with a dry, angular palate, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.

    Gary Farrell Winery Martaella Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
    Another vineyard who calls the Santa Rosa Plains home, the Martaella Vineyard is planted similarly to those in Burgundy with vines trained low to the ground to keeps the vines warmer overnight. The vineyard is planted to a blend of an heirloom selection of grapes.
    An opulent wine with high acidity and good fruit concentration, it is elegant, rich and complex, with dark fruit flavors of blueberries, cherries, floral and spice, culminating in long length.

    Maps courtesy of: https://russianrivervalley.org/discover/neighborhoods
    Photographs courtesy of Gary Farrell Winery


    Poggio Il Castellare, for the love of Sangiovese

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    For most people, owning one vineyard is sufficient. But, for the Bruna Baroncini, one winery was just the beginning. Over the past several decades, Bruna and her family have amassed a lovely portfolio of Tuscan wines. In particular, the acquisitions have focused heavily on exploring the gamut of Sangiovese’s Tuscan expressions.

    Not surprisingly, Bruna Baroncini loves Sangiovese. In fact, she has a whole philosophy on how this grape variety is, in her words, “similar to managing a man,” which I’ll get to later. Fortunately, as the head of her family’s wine business, she has lots of opportunity to immerse herself in the world of Sangiovese.

    In this regard, the Baroncini family has a wine producing history that spans centuries. Yet, interestingly given Bruna’s penchant for Sangiovese, they initially began making wine at Podere Torre Terza in San Gimignano, a denomination known for its whites.

    From the very start, this family has had a clear division of labor; the wine is always made by the women, the men are tasked to sell the wine. Unfortunately, Bruna had to take on both sides of the business when her brother passed away. Thankfully, she is now joined by her nephew Samuele Baroncini, along with their resident enologist Nicola Berti.

    Interestingly given Bruna’s penchant for Sangiovese, the family’s roots are at Podere Torre Terza in San Gimignano, an area more known for its whites than reds. Yet, the winery also produces the Sangiovese-led Chianti Colli Senesi. Building upon the family’s lengthy tenure in the industry, they have since added properties in Morellino (Fattoria Querciarossa), Chianti Classico (Casuccio Tarletti) and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Il Faggeto).

    But, it is evident that the heart and soul of the company today is Poggio Il Castellare, situated on the southeast side of Montalcino. Bruna purchased the small estate property in 1998, realizing “her dream of producing Brunello, ‘the king of reds’.” Around the same time, Bruna made the acquaintance of Jonathan Shiekman of Linwood Wines,  who immediately recognized their strong passion for the land and for growing the best possible grapes. Accordingly, he began bringing their wines to the U.S.  Today, the wine is available at Sherry-Lehmann, BevMo, ABC Wine, Premier Wines and can be shipped to nearly any state.

    While Poggio Il Castellare is not as well known as many other Brunello producers, its wines have received acclaim over the years. More specifically, in 2004, the Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino earned 96 points in Wine Spectator and proceeded to garner at least 90 points from the publication over the next 14 years. Moreover, it generally ranks among the highest in blind tastings, which is a nice distinction for a more affordable Brunello option.

    And, although the Baroncini have recently expanded their wine reach to Georgia to explore this ancient wine producing country, Bruna’s heart is still connected to her beloved Sangiovese. As she waxes poetically, she expounds on her philosophy that Sangiovese’s diversity is very much like a growing man. In Morellino, the grape expresses itself as a boy, growing to young adulthood in Montepulciano, then maturing with balance and power in in Chianti Classico and finally exhibiting maturity and the potential for long life in Brunello.

    Currently, Poggio Il Castellare produces four wines: two traditional wines and two modern, international wines. The traditional Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino are considered to be the more sophisticated, serious wines of the property. However, the other two are not to be dismissed out of hand as they each offer their own set of pleasures.



    TASTING NOTES

    Poggio Il Castellare Rosso di Montalcino 2018 D.O.C., Tuscany, Italy, $30.00
    Produced from 100% Sangiovese, this wine is fermented solely in stainless steel and then partially (~15%) aged in wood (barriques and tonneau) and then blended together after 6 months. The wine is meant to be an easy interpretation of the area, one that is easy to drink, fruit forward and supple. Redolent of red cherries, this refreshing wine offers up medium+ acidity, good tannins, and flavors of red currant, rhubarb and slight leafy/herbal notes, culminating in very long length.

    Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2016 D.O.C.G., Tuscany, Italy, $70.00
    The 2016 is the current release, which was rated as a 5-star vintage. The wine is aged for 24 months in a blend of barriques and tonneau and then aged for an additional four months in bottle. Aromas of perfume, cherry and menthol/eucalyptus greet the nose. This dry wine displays medium+ acidity, dusty, ripe tannins, notes of tart cherry, herbs and dried herbs, with very long length. It is elegant with long aging potential.

    Poggio Il Castellare Passo dei Caprioli 2019 Toscana Rosso I.G.T., Tuscany, Italy, $22.00
    Taking the name capriole, which is Italian for baby deer, this blend of 70% Sangiovese Grosso and 30% Merlot, aged solely in stainless steel, was created as a very drinkable wine. Notes of plum and spices dominate the nose giving way to ripe red fruit with anise and a slight leafiness. It has medium acidity, soft tannins and a dry palate.

    Poggio Il Castellare Cervio 2014 Sant’Antimo D.O.C., Tuscany, Italy, $80.00
    The small denomination of Sant’Antimo is a place where wine makers can have more freedom in what grapes are grown. For Nicola, Cabernet Franc is one of his favorite varieties in the world and he welcomed the challenge of making a 100% varietal wine with it. With only 6,000 bottles produced annually, it has become a bit of a cult wine. Harvested late in October, fermented in stainless steel and aged in French barriques for two years, this is a wine that can age for 10-15 years. It was showing some development, with aromas of dried spices, thyme, dark fruits, black currant and blackberries, which persisted on the dry palate. It had medium+ acidity, beautiful, resolved tannins, elegance and very long length.

    Picnics of Perfection and the Perfect Wines to Pair with them

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    The fires of Beltane have come and gone, ushering in warmer weather and brighter days as we await next month’s Summer Solstice. For me, this means outdoor dining
    and, while outdoor dining took on new meaning this past year, there’s something about eating outside that generally adds to the ambience (although less so in February — at least in New York). Of course, with lovely weather, verdant lawns, delicious food and great friends, a picnic is an especially lovely experience. Thus, my tiffin box and I were delighted to take to the park recently in search of sun, al fresco fare and good company, accompanied by good wine.

    I can still remember one of my first picnics as a young child. I simply draped a cloth on an old tree stump and proceeded to enjoy my lunch. As I got older, my picnics became more elaborate, particularly when my husband and I began to explore the joys of picnicking on our first visit to France together. This is not particularly surprising given that the word pique-nique dates to 17th century France. In any event, we would attend the local farmer’s market, select an assortment of bread, cheeses, meats and a bottle of wine before finding the perfect spot in which to partake of our meal. These pleasant memories set the stage for our future outings in parks, at polo events and elsewhere.


    Consequently, today, picnics are a big part of our summer plans and I am always at the ready with my picnic backpack, picnic blanket and the aforementioned tiffin box. While I take great pleasure in the creation of a beautiful meal in a beautiful setting, your ideal picnic might simply be a blanket and baloney sandwiches. Neither one of is right, as long as we are both having a great time!

    That being said, I do feel that any meal is elevated by the presence of wine and picnics are no exception. Seek out fresh whites, crisp rosés and bubbles of all shades as refreshing, food friendly and fun options to adorn one’s outdoor feast.

    Here are some wonderful wine options to get you started!



    WHITES
    Veramonte Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Casablanca Valley, Chile, $11.99
    From the cool Casablanca Valley in Chile, this wine offers up fresh herbal and citrus aromas, which persist on the palate with zippy acidity, medium body and good length. As an organic wine, it represents only a small percentage of Chilean vineyards that have sought out this designation.

    Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00
    From the highly respected producer, Merry Edwards, this Sauvignon Blanc is a more concentrated option with rich fruit notes of pear and citrus along with an herbal character on the nose. It provides good acidity, is slightly riper than the 2018, with medium-to-full body and very long length. This is a pricier option than the others listed here, but is definitely worth the splurge.
    For more on Merry Edwards, see these stories:
    – In Pursuit of Pleasure, Promise and Pinot
    – Making Merry for the Holidays

    Vilarnau Brut Reserva NV, Cava, Spain, $14.99
    Cava producer, Vilarnau, has been around since 1949 and is located in the of heart of Catalonia in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, just outside Barcelona. Its current labels pay homage to Antoni Gaudi, whose many masterpieces can be found in the city. Also an organic wine, this traditional blend of Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo, is aged over 15 months in bottle, with toasty, yeasty, apple notes on the nose and palate, good persistence of bubbles, and long length.

    Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Extra Dry, Treviso, Italy, $13.00
    Founded in 1960, this family-owned winery is now run by Giovanni Corvezzo, who was responsible for converting the vineyards to organic farming in 2013, and has since earned its organic certification in Italy. With a very fresh nose of cotton candy, pear and floral notes, this lovely sparkler is dry on palate, with good persistence of bubbles, vibrant acidity and long length.

    ROSES
    Domaine Bousquet Gaia Rosé 2020, Mendoza, Argentina, $20.00
    While I had the pleasure of tasting wine with Anne Bousquet just before the pandemic, this is a new wine from the winery. Produced from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, the nose is redolent of raspberries and strawberries that persist on the dry palate, along with medium+ acidity, medium body and long length.

    Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Rosé Extra Dry, Millesimato Treviso, Italy, $13.00
    It’s official! Prosecco can now legally be produced as a rosé sparkling wine. Another organic and vegan option from Corvezzo, this wine offers up aromas of berries, cherry and peach, with beautiful freshness on the palate, and a gentle perlage, along with long length.

    Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé Delicat NV, Cava, Spain, $15.99
    From the same producer noted above, with its Gaudi-inspired label, this sparkling rosé is soon to be certified organic. A blend of 85% Garnacha and 15% Pinot Noir, the wine displays fresh floral and berry notes with a lovely dry, effervescent palate, and balanced acidity, culminating in long length.

    If you desire your own very special picnic without doing all the work, check out Perfect Picnic.