Alto Adige continues to have a soft spot in my heart and a warm welcome on my palate. These wines are typically expressive, while inexpensive, providing good price to quality ratio. They are also food friendly and quite refreshing.
The smallest of Italy’s wine regions, Alto Adige produces high quality wines, but accounts for only 0.8% of all Italian wine production. The majority of these vineyards are situated on steep slopes with a patchwork of many, tiny plots owned by many different families. Given the challenges that the topography imposes on grape growing, coupled with the need for economies of scale, a large percentage of the region is managed by cooperatives.
Two such cooperatives are Cantina Girlan and Cantina Colterenzio. Cantina Girlan got its start in 1923 with 23 families gathering together to produce wine in the region. Today, the winery is home to 200 families, representing a total of 230 hectares of vineyards. Established somewhat later (1960) Colterenzio counts 300 winegrowers among its members and manages 300 hectares of vineyards. The two wineries produce both red and white wines, with a higher proportion of whites, given the high altitude climate.
These two options are excellent at the dinner table and are a nice respite from the heat and humidity of the dog days of summer.
TASTING NOTES
Cantina Colterenzio Cora Pinot Bianco 2020, Alto Adige, Italy, $18.00 Aromas of spice, citrus, and smoke greet with nose, with crisp acidity, medium+ body, and notes of chalk, citrus and spice on the dry palate, culminating in long length
Cantina Girlan Pinot Grigio 2019, Alto Adige, Italy, $16.00 On the nose this wine displays notes of marzipan and citrus which persist on the fresh and clean, dry palate with medium+ body and long length.
For most people, owning one vineyard is sufficient. But, for the Bruna Baroncini, one winery was just the beginning. Over the past several decades, Bruna and her family have amassed a lovely portfolio of Tuscan wines. In particular, the acquisitions have focused heavily on exploring the gamut of Sangiovese’s Tuscan expressions.
Not surprisingly, Bruna Baroncini loves Sangiovese. In fact, she has a whole philosophy on how this grape variety is, in her words, “similar to managing a man,” which I’ll get to later. Fortunately, as the head of her family’s wine business, she has lots of opportunity to immerse herself in the world of Sangiovese.
In this regard, the Baroncini family has a wine producing history that spans centuries. Yet, interestingly given Bruna’s penchant for Sangiovese, they initially began making wine at Podere Torre Terza in San Gimignano, a denomination known for its whites.
From the very start, this family has had a clear division of labor; the wine is always made by the women, the men are tasked to sell the wine. Unfortunately, Bruna had to take on both sides of the business when her brother passed away. Thankfully, she is now joined by her nephew Samuele Baroncini, along with their resident enologist Nicola Berti.
Interestingly given Bruna’s penchant for Sangiovese, the family’s roots are at Podere Torre Terza in San Gimignano, an area more known for its whites than reds. Yet, the winery also produces the Sangiovese-led Chianti Colli Senesi. Building upon the family’s lengthy tenure in the industry, they have since added properties in Morellino (Fattoria Querciarossa), Chianti Classico (Casuccio Tarletti) and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Il Faggeto).
But, it is evident that the heart and soul of the company today is Poggio Il Castellare, situated on the southeast side of Montalcino. Bruna purchased the small estate property in 1998, realizing “her dream of producing Brunello, ‘the king of reds’.” Around the same time, Bruna made the acquaintance of Jonathan Shiekman of Linwood Wines, who immediately recognized their strong passion for the land and for growing the best possible grapes. Accordingly, he began bringing their wines to the U.S. Today, the wine is available at Sherry-Lehmann, BevMo, ABC Wine, Premier Wines and can be shipped to nearly any state.
While Poggio Il Castellare is not as well known as many other Brunello producers, its wines have received acclaim over the years. More specifically, in 2004, the Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino earned 96 points in Wine Spectator and proceeded to garner at least 90 points from the publication over the next 14 years. Moreover, it generally ranks among the highest in blind tastings, which is a nice distinction for a more affordable Brunello option.
And, although the Baroncini have recently expanded their wine reach to Georgia to explore this ancient wine producing country, Bruna’s heart is still connected to her beloved Sangiovese. As she waxes poetically, she expounds on her philosophy that Sangiovese’s diversity is very much like a growing man. In Morellino, the grape expresses itself as a boy, growing to young adulthood in Montepulciano, then maturing with balance and power in in Chianti Classico and finally exhibiting maturity and the potential for long life in Brunello.
Currently, Poggio Il Castellare produces four wines: two traditional wines and two modern, international wines. The traditional Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino are considered to be the more sophisticated, serious wines of the property. However, the other two are not to be dismissed out of hand as they each offer their own set of pleasures.
TASTING NOTES
Poggio Il Castellare Rosso di Montalcino 2018 D.O.C., Tuscany, Italy, $30.00 Produced from 100% Sangiovese, this wine is fermented solely in stainless steel and then partially (~15%) aged in wood (barriques and tonneau) and then blended together after 6 months. The wine is meant to be an easy interpretation of the area, one that is easy to drink, fruit forward and supple. Redolent of red cherries, this refreshing wine offers up medium+ acidity, good tannins, and flavors of red currant, rhubarb and slight leafy/herbal notes, culminating in very long length.
Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2016 D.O.C.G., Tuscany, Italy, $70.00 The 2016 is the current release, which was rated as a 5-star vintage. The wine is aged for 24 months in a blend of barriques and tonneau and then aged for an additional four months in bottle. Aromas of perfume, cherry and menthol/eucalyptus greet the nose. This dry wine displays medium+ acidity, dusty, ripe tannins, notes of tart cherry, herbs and dried herbs, with very long length. It is elegant with long aging potential.
Poggio Il Castellare Passo dei Caprioli 2019 Toscana Rosso I.G.T., Tuscany, Italy, $22.00 Taking the name capriole, which is Italian for baby deer, this blend of 70% Sangiovese Grosso and 30% Merlot, aged solely in stainless steel, was created as a very drinkable wine. Notes of plum and spices dominate the nose giving way to ripe red fruit with anise and a slight leafiness. It has medium acidity, soft tannins and a dry palate.
Poggio Il Castellare Cervio 2014 Sant’Antimo D.O.C., Tuscany, Italy, $80.00 The small denomination of Sant’Antimo is a place where wine makers can have more freedom in what grapes are grown. For Nicola, Cabernet Franc is one of his favorite varieties in the world and he welcomed the challenge of making a 100% varietal wine with it. With only 6,000 bottles produced annually, it has become a bit of a cult wine. Harvested late in October, fermented in stainless steel and aged in French barriques for two years, this is a wine that can age for 10-15 years. It was showing some development, with aromas of dried spices, thyme, dark fruits, black currant and blackberries, which persisted on the dry palate. It had medium+ acidity, beautiful, resolved tannins, elegance and very long length.
The fires of Beltane have come and gone, ushering in warmer weather and brighter days as we await next month’s Summer Solstice. For me, this means outdoor dining and, while outdoor dining took on new meaning this past year, there’s something about eating outside that generally adds to the ambience (although less so in February — at least in New York). Of course, with lovely weather, verdant lawns, delicious food and great friends, a picnic is an especially lovely experience. Thus, my tiffin box and I were delighted to take to the park recently in search of sun, al fresco fare and good company, accompanied by good wine.
I can still remember one of my first picnics as a young child. I simply draped a cloth on an old tree stump and proceeded to enjoy my lunch. As I got older, my picnics became more elaborate, particularly when my husband and I began to explore the joys of picnicking on our first visit to France together. This is not particularly surprising given that the word pique-nique dates to 17th century France. In any event, we would attend the local farmer’s market, select an assortment of bread, cheeses, meats and a bottle of wine before finding the perfect spot in which to partake of our meal. These pleasant memories set the stage for our future outings in parks, at polo events and elsewhere.
Consequently, today, picnics are a big part of our summer plans and I am always at the ready with my picnic backpack, picnic blanket and the aforementioned tiffin box. While I take great pleasure in the creation of a beautiful meal in a beautiful setting, your ideal picnic might simply be a blanket and baloney sandwiches. Neither one of is right, as long as we are both having a great time!
That being said, I do feel that any meal is elevated by the presence of wine and picnics are no exception. Seek out fresh whites, crisp rosés and bubbles of all shades as refreshing, food friendly and fun options to adorn one’s outdoor feast.
Here are some wonderful wine options to get you started!
WHITES Veramonte Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Casablanca Valley, Chile, $11.99 From the cool Casablanca Valley in Chile, this wine offers up fresh herbal and citrus aromas, which persist on the palate with zippy acidity, medium body and good length. As an organic wine, it represents only a small percentage of Chilean vineyards that have sought out this designation.
Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00 From the highly respected producer, Merry Edwards, this Sauvignon Blanc is a more concentrated option with rich fruit notes of pear and citrus along with an herbal character on the nose. It provides good acidity, is slightly riper than the 2018, with medium-to-full body and very long length. This is a pricier option than the others listed here, but is definitely worth the splurge. For more on Merry Edwards, see these stories: – In Pursuit of Pleasure, Promise and Pinot – Making Merry for the Holidays
Vilarnau Brut Reserva NV, Cava, Spain, $14.99 Cava producer, Vilarnau, has been around since 1949 and is located in the of heart of Catalonia in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, just outside Barcelona. Its current labels pay homage to Antoni Gaudi, whose many masterpieces can be found in the city. Also an organic wine, this traditional blend of Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo, is aged over 15 months in bottle, with toasty, yeasty, apple notes on the nose and palate, good persistence of bubbles, and long length.
Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Extra Dry, Treviso, Italy, $13.00 Founded in 1960, this family-owned winery is now run by Giovanni Corvezzo, who was responsible for converting the vineyards to organic farming in 2013, and has since earned its organic certification in Italy. With a very fresh nose of cotton candy, pear and floral notes, this lovely sparkler is dry on palate, with good persistence of bubbles, vibrant acidity and long length.
ROSES Domaine Bousquet Gaia Rosé 2020, Mendoza, Argentina, $20.00 While I had the pleasure of tasting wine with Anne Bousquet just before the pandemic, this is a new wine from the winery. Produced from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, the nose is redolent of raspberries and strawberries that persist on the dry palate, along with medium+ acidity, medium body and long length.
Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Rosé Extra Dry, Millesimato Treviso, Italy, $13.00 It’s official! Prosecco can now legally be produced as a rosé sparkling wine. Another organic and vegan option from Corvezzo, this wine offers up aromas of berries, cherry and peach, with beautiful freshness on the palate, and a gentle perlage, along with long length.
Vilarnau Brut Reserva RoséDelicat NV, Cava, Spain, $15.99 From the same producer noted above, with its Gaudi-inspired label, this sparkling rosé is soon to be certified organic. A blend of 85% Garnacha and 15% Pinot Noir, the wine displays fresh floral and berry notes with a lovely dry, effervescent palate, and balanced acidity, culminating in long length.
If you desire your own very special picnic without doing all the work, check out Perfect Picnic.
I was recently invited to take part in a virtual tasting featuring the wines of Collio, an area I had had the pleasure of visiting in December 2010. With nearly a decade since that first introduction, I was eager to reacquaint myself with these wines. In addition to meeting with various winemakers on our trip, we had the opportunity to steep ourselves in the culture of the area. And, as we were reminded during the virtual event, it is this unique and varied culture that permeates the wines themselves. Of course, beyond the cultural influences, all wines are a direct result of the climatic conditions in which they are grown and Collio is no exception. Yet we were advised that, like an orchestra playing a symphony, the wines needed all of the instruments to fully shine.
Among our cultural endeavors, we toured the town of Aquileia, a city originally established by the Romans, who first cultivated grapes in the area. Presently a UNESCO World Heritage site, Aquileia’s Basilica, built in 1000 CE, had much of its history lost until they undertook renovations in 1909 and discovered an amazing 4th century mosaic floor hiding underneath the more modern structure.
We also got a glimpse of the area’s war-torn history as we hiked along the mountain ridge of Sabotin, which served as an important part of the Isonza Front during WWI. Due to its topography, it was a key defensive point for the Austro-Hungarian army against the Italians in 1915 and 1916. As we trekked the rocky crest, I joked that if we fell off the mountain and died, we would be buried in either Italy or Slovenia, depending upon which side we fell. But, in all seriousness, this arbitrary border had kept families apart, pitting one against the other. Today, the Sabotin Peace Park honors those who fought and serves as a reminder of this historic period.
A further influence on Collio’s culture was the region’s roots in the Hapsburg empire. In fact, the area had been under Austrian rule until 1915 when it finally became part of Italy. This, coupled with its shared border with Slovenia, results in an interesting mix of cultures. Accordingly, local signage is often written in multiple languages – Italian, German and Slovene – and the cuisine is a blend of these national influences.
Nestled between the Adriatic Sea and the striking, Julian Alps, Collio is blessed with a moderate climate as the mountains protect the area from harsh winds, while its proximity to the sea makes it warmer than neighboring inland areas. Significant diurnal shifts ensure that the grapes retain their acidity while the soil imparts structure and minerality due to its composition of numerous layers of marl and sandstone (referred to as Ponca).
Part of the Friuli Venezia Giulia wine region, the C-shaped, Collio denomination is comprised of 7,000 hectares, of which 1,500 are devoted to viticulture. Within this small enclave, there are 350 wineries each growing an average of 2.5 hectares. Vines are grown exclusively on the hills (colli in Italian), with 17 different grapes cultivated. Primarily known for varietal, clean, complex and elegant white wines, which account for most of the production, Collio relies on both indigenous and international varieties.
The local Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit share a 2,000- year history, while the international grapes of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Bianco were imported to the area in the 19th century. Not surprisingly, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc have established a strong foothold here due to their overall popularity worldwide. In addition to the 17 varietally labeled wines permitted in the Collio DOC, there are two others: Collio Bianco and Collio Rosso for white and red blends, respectively.
Led by wine journalist Matteo Bellotto and Mitja Sirk, a local sommelier, the tasting featured an overview of the region as well as a guided tasting of six wines. As Matteo noted, it is through wine and food that the locals speak and they were excited to have these wines speak to us. Moreover, at the end of the event, Matteo shared that we had started as guests, but having had this experience together, we were now friends.
All of the wines we tasted were from the 2019 vintage. This vintage was a particularly good one given the lack of rain in September. Consequently, the wine producers did not have to rush to harvest the grapes, giving them a long maturation on the vine. In fact, the area is one of the rainiest, more often forcing winemakers to pick in August. Yet, despite the challenges that this wet weather brings, many Collio producers are committed to practicing organic viticulture.
As we turned our attention to the wines themselves, we were advised that it was a tradition to taste the Ribolla Gialla first, given its high acidity and higher alcohol compared to other local wines. Its freshness prepares the palate for what is to come.
Conti Formentini Ribolla Gialla 2019, Collio, Italy One of the oldest producers in the area, the Formentini family purchased a castle in San Floriano del Collio in 1520 and has remained in the area ever since. This variety is often connected with orange wines, but is also produced as a white wine.
Tasting Note: Aromas of yellow plum and apple greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, along with high acidity, medium+ body and long length.
Ronco Bianchis Friulano 2019, Collio, Italy This winery is under the ownership and direction of Giancarlo Palla and his sons, Alberto and Lorenzo. Its name is derived from “Ronco”, from the Friulan word “fianco, or side of a hill” and “Blanchis”, white, the color of its wines. Previously referred to as Tocai Friulano, now just Friulano, this indigenous grape is prone to producing high yields, yet it still produces well balanced wines.
Tasting Note: This wine displays distinct floral notes joined by pear. It is dry, with medium acidity, medium body, and flavors of peach, pear, and floral, culminating in long length with a bitter almond note in the finish.
Blazic Malvasia 2019, Collio, Italy This family run winery has been producing wine since 1923. Also grown in Croatia and Slovenia, as a variety Malvasia requires more talent and patience on the part of the winemaker.
Tasting Note: Redolent of stone fruits, this dry wine offers up rich and ripe peach and herbal flavors, good acidity, full body, nice length and a citrus note in the finish.
Tenuta Borgo Conventi Pinot Grigio 2019, Collio, Italy Established on land that was previously a monastery, Borgo Conventi was founded in 1975. It was purchased by the Folonari family in 2001 and was more recently (April 2019) acquired by the Moretti Polegato family who also owns Villa Sandi, a well-respected producer of Prosecco and Prosecco Superiore.
Matteo explained that Pinot Grigio can often be misunderstood. In Collio, it carries the identity of the terroir and is not an everyday wine as it is in other regions such as those from Alto Adige and Friuli. By way of illustration, Matteo depicted Pinot Grigio from Collio as the Beatles, while Pinot Grigio from elsewhere as Shakira.
Tasting Note: This dry wine displayed a lovely freshness and minerality, with medium+ acidity, medium to full body, and long length.
Toros Pinot Bianco 2019, Collio, Italy With a long history in the area, the Toròs family first came to Novali in the early 20th century. Today, the estate is owned by Franco Toròs, who has focused his efforts on modern winemaking.
Matteo suggested that the region is just beginning to understand the potential of Pinot Bianco as it finds its own evolution in the terroir. As part of his signature in producing this variety, Franco always uses a small percentage (<20%) of oak in its production.
Tasting Note: With a slightly woody note on the nose, this dry wine offered up medium acidity, full body, a woody undercurrent along with apple and long length.
Polje Fantazija Collio Bianco 2019, Collio, Italy The Sutter family has been producing wine since 1933, initially in Piave. They now have the Polje estate in Collio, which derives its name “from the characteristic local karst sinkholes.”
While the Collio Bianco DOC presently permits a blend of indigenous and international grapes (as in this one which brings together Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla and Sauvignon Blanc), this DOC will eventually be restricted to blends of indigenous varieties only.
Tasting Note: This wine has aromas of flowers and pineapple, while the use of wood in its production manifests as a toothpick characteristic on the full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.
Cantina Valle Isarco celebrates its 60th anniversary this year, but the winery is not resting on its laurels. Far from it. Rather, while it acknowledges its roots, it is looking to the future to further increase its quality. Among these efforts, the Cantina has recently revamped its logo and branding and hired a new consulting enologist.
Representing 135 families, this highly regarded cooperative is situated in the Valle Isarco, a subzone of Alto Adige and Italy’s northernmost winegrowing area. Here, in the heart of the Dolomites, vines are grown at 300-1,000 meters above sea level, on very steep slopes with a 60% gradient. Consequently, grapes must be hand harvested, resulting in a very labor-intensive production process.
Moreover, the high altitudes offer up very cold nights and cold winds, along with a wide diurnal variation, further adding to the challenges of harvest, which takes place from September through mid-October. This is not an easy task. But the benefits to such intense growing conditions are evident in the style of wines produced. Specifically, the small berry size (a consequence of the high altitude) yields wines with high concentration of flavor, while the cool climate maintains good acidity and salinity in the grapes. Overall, the wines are fresh, clean and clear with an acidic character. And this bright acidity remains even with aging.
As a very small wine region, Alto Adige accounts for only 0.8% of all Italian wine production with a total of 400 hectares planted. Of those, Cantina Valle Isarco is responsible for 150 of them. Most of these are small vineyards surrounding the homes of the individual members. While the vineyards are not certified organic, it is here that the children play in their respective backyards, running around through the vines. Accordingly, intervention is minimal and viticulture is as sustainable as possible.
Their vineyards are planted to 14 different grape varieties: 10 white varieties, totaling 98% of the winery’s production with the remaining 2% planted to four red varieties. Not surprisingly, given the region’s proximity to Germany and Austria, Alto Adige’s viticulture is heavily influenced by these two countries, especially in grape varieties grown, such as Kerner and Sylvaner. From those 14 varieties, Cantina Valle Isarco produces 28 different wines, among its Classic (entry level) and Premium ranges.
The premium wines include Aristos and Sabiona. More specifically, while Hannes Munter, resident enologist, manages all of the producers, for the Aristos wines, he pays closer attention with the selection. The Sabiona wines are produced from two single vineyards planted within the walls of the local monastery.
Among its past accomplishments, Cantina Valle Isarco rebuilt its winery 15 years ago, making considerable investments in technology and its wines continue to garner accolades (its Aristos Kerner was named a Top 20 Wine of the Year in 2016 by Decanter magazine). Yet, the young team, which includes Munter and General Manager, Armin Gratl, knew that they wanted to make significant splash as they celebrated this important milestone.
The new logo, which was launched with the 2020 vintage, gives more focus to the name of the valley with mountain and diamond imagery, and the new labels are clearer and easier to read. But, the more innovative move was the winery’s decision to collaborate with noted enologist Ricardo Cotarella. Gratl explained their choice in Cotarella, explaining that they wanted to bring in someone with an outside view and lots of experience, as well as someone with the same ambitions they have for the region.
When asked why he was interested in taking on this new
consultancy, Ricardo Cotarella relished the opportunity presented to him,
citing both his excitement at getting to work in the region for the first time and
the challenge of improving the quality of wines that are already very good. He
also looked forward to partnering with Armin and Hannes.
Moreover, he was also fascinated by the idea of working with Kerner, a grape he had only previously experienced in Japan. He admitted that, “A winemaker shouldn’t say ‘This is my favorite wine;” only the customer can make that declaration. But, he and Hannes really like the Kerner 2020 and, in fact, Cotarella confessed “I am falling in love with this varietal.”
A virtual seminar was held with members of the press and trade in mid-February, featuring six wines. For the tasting, participants were presented with a study in two grapes, exploring different vintages, selections and microclimates. Starting with the Classic Kerner, we next tasted the Aristos and Sabiona versions before turning our attention to the analogous Sylvaner wines.
Interestingly, both of the Sabiona wines and the Aristos Sylvaner had spent some time in tonneaux, but it was with a light-handed approach to oak that added depth and elegance rather than an overtly woody flavor to the wines. In this regard, Cotarella made it clear that he uses wood in, not on the wine. Additionally, it depends on the vintage, adding that, “Oak is an opportunity, not a rule,” and he only uses it when the wine deserves the oak. With his “crush” on the Kerner 2020, he expects to treat the Aristos and Sabiona Kerner 2020 wines to some oak.
So what else does the future hold? Cotarella acknowledged that the wines of Cantina Valle Isaro from yesterday were excellent; its wines from today are excellent. As he mused on next steps, he noted that he was very optimistic. “We have everything – the climate, soil, people, grapes and technology in the winery,” he said. “I am not sure what the improvement will be, but be patient, this is my promise.” These are already extraordinary wines; I am sure our patience will be well rewarded.
Cantina Valle Isarco Kerner 2020, Alto Adige, Italy OverallImpressions : Fresh, exotic spice and good fruit. Tasting Note: Dry, with high acidity, medium body, aromas and flavors of apple, salinity, minerality, floral, plum, spice and very long length.
Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Kerner 2019, Alto Adige, Italy Overall Impressions: A richer expression of the variety with fuller body. Tasting Note: An intense nose of apple, quince, pear, with full body, high acidity and very long length.
Cantina Valle Isarco Sabiona Kerner 2018, Alto Adige, Italy OverallImpressions: An elegant and complex wine, with careful use of oak. Tasting Note: Light oak and smoke on nose, with bright acidity, medium+ body, very mineral, with richness and long length.
Cantina Valle Isarco Sylvaner 2020, Alto Adige, Italy OverallImpressions: Fresh and clean with a purity of fruit. Tasting Note: Aromas of rich fruit, quince, green apple greet the nose joined by minerality and freshness on the medium-bodied palate with long length.
Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Sylvaner 2019, Alto Adige, Italy Overall Impressions: Richer, with more concentration and complexity. Tasting Note: Less ripe fruit on nose, with peaches, minerality and salinity, along with high acidity, medium+ body and long length.
Cantina Valle Isarco Sabiona Sylvaner 2018, Alto Adige, Italy Overall Impressions: Elegant depth and concentration due to oak and age. Tasting Note: Showing nice development, with high acidity and medium+ body and notes of apricot, salinity and a candied note in finish, culminating in very long length.
Winery, vineyard and principal images courtesy of Cantina Valle Isarco.
I’ve written about the Pasqua wines previously and have always been impressed with them. This most recent tasting was no exception.
Their latest wine comes with the lengthy, yet catchy, name of Hey French: you could have done this but you didn’t and, more specifically this is “Hey French, 1st Edition.” The mouthful of a name is simply a joke, while also paying homage to French winemakers and their regions who inspire the current generation of the Pasqua family.
The wine is billed as a “super-Bianco” and is a blend of 60% Garganega grapes, with the balance comprised of Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon, all of which were grown in the Veneto. In addition to having been macerated on the skins for about 10 hours prior to fermentation, the other interesting aspect of the wine’s production is that it brings together wines from four different vintages – 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2017 – with future editions to contain a different set of vintages.
And, while the grapes come from an area within the Soave DOC denomination, the fact that this wine breaks the rules precludes it from having that designation on its label. But, as they are trying to create a completely different, non-Soave wine, it really doesn’t matter. Instead, the wine is designated Bianco Veneto IGT and sports a flamboyant label designed by French-Cuban artist, CB Hoyo, in keeping with the light-hearted nature of the wine.
TASTING NOTE “Hey French, 1st Edition”, Bianco Veneto IGT, Italy, $40.00 Dry on the palate with medium+ acidity, the wine presented aromas and flavors of citrus, minerality and tidal pool. It displayed depth and richness, along with a fuller body, making it a good white wine option for the colder, winter months ahead or to pair with heartier food. The wine definitely has aging potential and will likely become more complex and interesting with time.
This wine was a wonderful surprise in so many ways. I had been in touch with the winery – Azienda Agricola Cortese – back in March and then as the world fell apart, I forgot all about that exchange. Then on the day of my actual birthday last month, my husband handed me an unexpected package – it was the Cortese wine. Happy birthday, indeed!
Not paying full attention to the “gift,” I stuck the bottle in the refrigerator thinking that it was a white wine. Why? I’m not entirely sure, but I think I was confusing the winery’s name – Cortese – with the grape of the same name, which is a white variety.
So, one evening when my husband and I were about to have dinner (Branzino stuffed with tomatoes, capers and olives), we reached into the fridge, pulled out the Sabuci wine and proceeded to open it to enjoy with dinner…until we discovered that it wasn’t white at all, but red.
While I don’t think that there is only one right wine pairing, I do generally shy away from reds with delicate white fish since the wine can cause a metallic taste in the fish. Instead, we opened up a Chardonnay and permitted the red wine to warm up after its lengthy chill.
An hour or so after dinner, when the fish was merely a memory, I poured a glass of the Sicilian wine and turned my attention to what was in the glass. It was such a lovely discovery!
Photo courtesy of winery.
Azienda Agricola Cortese was initially owned by Giovanna Cortese. However, as Giovanna became older, she recognized that she was unable to maintain the winery on her own and, since none of her family members indicated an interest in taking over, she set out to sell the estate. After six years of intense negotiations, the winery was purchased by Stefano and Marina Girelli of Trento, Italy. The two were keenly aware that Sicily was a great wine producing region with significant potential and seized the opportunity to make their mark with organic, low-intervention wines.
Part of their La Selezione range, the grapes for the Sabuci Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG are grown within the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG denomination, which is situated in the south central part of the island. More specifically, the Sabuci Cerasuolo di Vittoria hails from a small hamlet of the same name, which has been an important area for wine production ever since the Greeks established vineyards there.
This organic wine is a blend of the indigenous varieties of Nero d’Avola (70%) and Frappato (30%). The former is fermented in barriques, while the latter is fermented in 7hl terracotta amphorae, further drawing on the wine’s historical roots. The wines are then blended together and aged for six months in various vessels before being bottled and eventually released.
After tasting the Sabuci wine, it is clear that the Girelli’s are truly harnessing the potential of their winery. It was truly a very welcome surprise in a glass!
TASTING NOTE Sabuci Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2016, Sicily, Italy, $20.00 (estimate) This wine delivers plush aromas of berries, plum and cranberry with an undercurrent of herbal notes, namely wet leaves and tobacco, along with vibrant acidity, medium+ body and long length.
In January 2017, I had the immense pleasure of visiting Verona. “In fair Verona, where we lay our scene,” I found a lovely and welcoming city with bustling shops, beckoning restaurants and majestic bridges. Starting at the imposing Bra Gate, the city’s cobble-stone streets put you in mind of another time, reinforced as you pass the Roman amphitheater. Other hints of this classical connection include the Porta Borsari, an ancient Roman gate still standing in the middle of town.
In many ways, this is the city of love. Nearly synonymous with the tragic story of Romeo and Juliet, visitors are encouraged to tour Juliet’s house and tomb as well as send her letters in aid of their own romantic peccadillos. But, despite the gimmicky feel to these attractions, there is something about Verona that stirs the romance within. Or, perhaps, at least, the romance of life and adventure.
Aside from romantic love, Verona also courts business – specifically the business of wine. Home to VinItaly, Verona hosts the largest wine fair in the world, bringing the world of wine to its door each year. Moreover, Verona serves as a gateway to the Valpolicella wine region, the name of which translates as the “valley of many cellars” and with the profusion of wine production here, it is easy to see why.
An area dedicated to viticulture, local archeological evidence of these vines dates to 40 million years ago, while records of wine production in the Veneto area indicate a history as early as the 5th century BCE. The region is bound by Lake Garda and the Adige River, both of which influence the climate among the nearly 20,000 acres of vineyards.
Today, the region encompasses several different wines within its borders, but traditionally has been associated with wines produced from dried grapes. These type of wines appear to have been developed from the fourth century BCE, likely a way for the Romans to raise the alcohol level of their wines, rendering them more stable and thus more easily transported throughout their empire.
While the Romans dried their grapes over heat, more modern measures focus on drying out the grapes over a period of months through a more natural reduction in water content called appassimento. Today, the wines most well known for this type of production method is Amarone della Valpolicella.
Hailing from this region and adapting this traditional approach, the Pasqua family has focused on producing a less expensive option in both red and white. They use a modified appassimento technique in which the grapes lose “only” 15-30% volume as opposed to the 60% associated with Amarone. The family launched their Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento (Passion-Feeling) in 2014.
Not ones to worry about convention, Alessandro Pasqua proudly declares that “The Rosso breaks about 10 rules!” including its use of the non-indigenous Merlot grape, early vinification and a limited aging regimen. Accordingly, neither of these wines have a particular designation other than IGT Veneto, proclaiming that the wines come from the Veneto region.
Befitting a wine named Passion-Feeling, the label features the love-inspired graffiti that lined the passageway and walls (now since removed) at the house associated as having been the Capulet’s home.
Pasqua’s PassioneSentimento collection includes a white, red and a Prosecco, another wine closely associated with the region.
Among its other wines, the Pasqua Family also produces a an “11 Minutes Rosé ,” which, according to their winemaker is the ideal length of time for contact between the juice and skins to produce this wine. While not part of the PassioneSentimento series, this rose recalls another set of lovers: Catullus and Lesbia, with her depicted on the label.
The graffiti wall at the Capulet home in Verona.
TASTING NOTES
Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento Prosecco Brut, Treviso DOC, $16 SRP Fresh and lively on the nose and palate, with bright pear fruit and floral notes, persistent effervescence and long length.
Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento Bianco 2018, Veneto IGT, $16 SRP Produced from 100% Garganega, the grapes for this wine are harvested early, hand-picked and then dried for around 15 days, thereby concentrating the aromas and flavors. A portion is aged in French oak barrels for a few months. With an intense, concentrated nose, one is greeted with notes of melon, musk and a slight nuttiness. On the palate, it is dry, with high acidity, rich and round with citrus, melon, culminating in long length.
Pasqua “11 Minutes” Rosé TreVenezie IGT, $20 SRP This rose is very much in the Provencal style, with a barely there pale salmon color. Aromas of watermelon and strawberries greet the nose and continue on the palate, with good acidity, medium body and long length. Very refreshing and food friendly.
Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento Rosso 2017, Veneto IGT, $16 SRP A blend of 40% Merlot, 30% Corvina and 30% Croatina, the grapes are left to dry for four to six weeks, losing water content over time. On the nose, this wine offers up notes of plum, cherries, a hint of vanilla and menthol. The palate is dry, but with a slightly sweet attack, with medium acidity, medium tannins, flavors of berries, baking spice and anise, with long length.
This month, we heard reports of a NASA summer intern, Wolf Cukier, who discovered a new planet. Pretty heady stuff! These days, it is challenging to discover anything new under the sun. We live in a world where we’ve been there, done that and, with globalization, there is a homogenization of culture that pervades. Yet, we still treasure unique products and delight in the discovery of new finds.
Twenty years ago, in search of novel and noteworthy products to sell, Lou Di Palo, head of his family’s business, was fortunate to come across a then-unheard of Italian cheese: Piave. Bringing his new-found discovery to America (or at least to the Italian cheese and specialty shop established in 1903 by his great-grandfather, Savino Di Palo), Lou introduced New Yorkers to this wonderful artisan cheese.
Lou Di Palo
Today, Piave DOP Cheese has become a beloved staple of the American market, finding shelf space in major supermarkets as well as in specialty stores. This traditional cheese hails from the Belluno province near the northern tip of the Veneto region, amidst the Dolomite Mountains.
Historically, the area has been known for its dairy cattle since the 1700s, but as the rural economy declined in the wake of industrialization, it was the cooperative dairies that saved the industry during the 1800s. Yet, despite this lengthy history, the Piave cheese as we know it, named for the local Piave River, dates from 1960. And, more recently, the Piave Consorzio was established in 2010 to protect the brand and quality of the cheese, with an average of 300,000 wheels produced annually.
A hard, cooked, cow’s milk cheese, these cylindrical cheeses are made from fresh milk sourced solely from within the mountain province and limited to three types of cow: Italian Brown, Italian Spotted Red and Italian Friesian (aka Holstein). A special culture from the area accounts for the cheese’s characteristic taste, which is further influenced by its aging process, with flavor intensifying over time. As the cheese ages, the curd becomes darker and harder and the rind increases in thickness and color. Due to the fermentation process involved in its production, it has a low lactose content compared to some other cheeses.
With its fresh, medium, aged and extra old age designations, there are several different options available: –Piave Fresco (20-60 days) -Piave Mezzano (61-180 days) -Piave Vecchio (>180 days) -Piave Vecchio Selezione Oro (more than 12 months) -Piave Vecchio Riserva (more than 18 months)
Regardless of your preference, the rich, nutty flavors of the cheese pair well with wine. In this regard, a recent press event hosted at Di Palo’s newest venture: C. Di Palo wine bar, showcased the pairing ability of the cheeses with the wines of Garda Spumante DOC. These wines, named for Lake Garda and produced just 100 miles away from the Piave DOP area, offered up a fresh and effervescent option to cleanse one’s palate in between bites of cheese. Guests at the happy hour were invited to sample the Piave Mezzano and Piave Vecchio Selezione Oro in their unadulterated, delicious form, as well as a range of dishes prepared by Di Palo’s chef, utilizing both the cheeses and the wines in his recipes.
As Italy’s largest lake, Lake Garda splits its regional allegiance down the middle, with Lombardy to the west and the Veneto to the east. Here, drying breezes and the moderating influence of the lake permit the grapes to ripen sufficiently, while maintaining their bright acidity.
Established in 1996, the corresponding Garda DOC wine area encompasses the cities of Brescia, Mantua, Verona and is home to 10 appellations situated at the southern curve of the lake. It overlaps with other appellations, including the more well-known appellations (aka denominations) of Lugana, Custoza, Valpolicella, Bardolino, Soave and Valdadige.
Although the denomination permits the production of whites, rosés and reds, the core production centers on sparkling wines with 7 million bottles produced annually, with an estimated production increase to 20 million bottles in the next few years. These sparkling (aka spumante) wines may be made using either the Traditional (that used in Champagne) or Charmat (used in Prosecco production) Methods, depending upon the individual producer’s personal preferences. The white Garda DOC Spumante may use Garganega, Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano or Chardonnay, while the Rosé Garda DOC Spumante is produced from Corvina, Rondinella, Pinot Nero or Merlot. The wines range from Brut Nature (no sweetness) to Demi-Sec (dessert style) wines.
With the luscious cheese dishes served alongside the fragrant sparkling wines, it was a perfect evening of food and wine pairings. All in all, a delicious discovery and an embarrassment of riches!
C. Di Palo wine bar with its meticulous finishes. The beautifully restored sequoia wood on the bar and walls comes from a reclaimed water tower.
Yes, you can reach for any old beverage at the dinner table, but there is something about the way that wine creates a magical connection with food that transforms an ordinary meal into an extraordinary meal, regardless of what you are eating. It’s a unique equation of 1 + 1 = 3 that can be replicated by few other libations.
An assortment of wines from Kobrand arrived at my doorstep, each providing a wonderful opportunity to match it to a particular meal. I was admittedly encouraged to pair these wines with Christmas cookies, but Christmas came and went and frankly, I don’t eat Christmas cookies.
Most of these meals consisted of take-out, but the wines elevated these simple dishes with their presence. And, we actually were inspired to create a chorizo paella for the Barbaresco and were not disappointed.
The Seeker Riesling 2018, Mosel, Germany, SRP: $13.99 The Seeker Riesling 2018 was a wonderful accompaniment to sushi. The crisp acidity of the wine married well with the freshness of the raw fish and its luscious mouthfeel matched with the cuisine’s umami characteristic. This wine hails from mineral-rich, slate soils in Germany’s Mosel region, with grapes 100% hand-harvested. After fermentation, the wine is aged in tank and oak cask for 3 to 8 months before being bottled in lightweight glass to reduce its carbon footprint.
Tasting Note: Aromas of lime zest and flowers greet the nose. The off-dry palate offers up high acidity, balancing the wine’s slight sweetness, with lovely citrus and lime, culminating in long length.
Caposaldo Moscato NV, Provincia di Pavia IGT, Lombardy, Italy, SRP: $14.99 This wine is much sweeter than the Riesling (with residual sugar coming in at 110 g/l compared to 25.5 g/l), so it is more suited to pairing with desserts than savory food. That being said, we opened it up with Thai take-out and really enjoyed it with our mango salad. The sweetness of the wine matched the sweetness of the fruit and its low alcohol (7% abv) kept our heads clear.
Tasting Note: Produced from 100% Moscato Bianco grapes, which are handpicked from 20-year-old vines, this wine provides a fresh and lively palate balancing the sugar. Aromas and flavors of peach and Asian pear dominate, with a slight effervescence due to a secondary fermentation; long length.
Vina Montes Alpha Carmenère 2017, DO Colchagua Valley, Chile, SRP: $21.99 A burger and fries might not be a healthy dinner option, but it was certainly tasty and was a lovely foil for the Carmenere, which is blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 55% aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (a combination of 1st, 2nd and 3rd use). While not overly tannic, there were sufficient tannins to pair well with the protein the burger and the fruit-forward nature of the wine also added to the match.
Tasting Note: The nose is redolent of meatiness and earthiness, while the dry palate presents with very ripe dark red and black cherry fruit and coffee. This full-bodied wine provides good acidity, with medium-soft tannins and long length.
Michele Chiarlo Reyna Barbaresco DOCG 2015 (SRP: $49.99), Piedmont, Italy, SRP: $49.99 Eyeing this 100% Nebbiolo wine from such an esteemed region, I was anticipating an overly tannic, overly youthful wine, but was pleasantly surprised that it was showing so nicely, despite being capable of much lengthier aging. We transformed a cold winter’s night with the warmth of southern Spain, preparing our own chorizo paella, which went wonderfully with the Barbaresco.
Tasting Note: A very expressive nose of roses, cocoa, cherries, chocolate-covered cherries, slight earth/wet dirt persisted on the dry palate, along with medium+ acidity, firm tannins, medium+ body, along with a delicateness and elegance, with extremely long length.
