As I’ve written before, the Malbec grape originated in France and is currently grown in Bordeaux, the Loire Valley and Cahors. But, despite Malbec’s association with France, it is planted in much greater numbers in Argentina. More specifically, Argentina’s long relationship with Malbec dates to 1853 when agronomist Michel Aimé Pouget brought the grape to from Europe to the New World country, having been hired to run an agricultural school there. In addition to the school’s influence, Argentina’s early viticulture was also shaped by Italian and French immigrants, who brought their grape growing experience and expertise with them.
Not surprisingly, I have had the opportunity to compare and contrast Malbec-based wines in the past, both with regard to producer as well as with regard to region of production (i.e. Argentina vs. France).
However, I recently had the particularly interesting chance to taste two Malbecs side-by-side, which differed markedly in winemaking approaches: traditional red wine production vs. carbonic maceration.
Traditional red wine production is fairly well known and understood by consumers, but carbonic maceration is less familiar, since it is mostly confined to the production of Beaujolais Noveau. Utilizing intracellular fermentation, carbonic maceration typically produces lighter style wines with a fresh fruit flavor profile. This was not a winemaking technique brought to bear on the Malbec grape… until now. In fact, there appears to be a trend among Argentine producers (see: this story) in using this unusual approach with Argentinian grapes.
Now, joining this small coterie of carbonic macerators, Domaine Bousquet has added its Gaia Nouveau Malbec to the mix. Produced with certified organic Malbec grapes, winemaker Rodrigo Serrano decided, “Why not try to make a carbonic maceration Malbec?” Answering his own question affirmatively, the first wine was made with the 2022 vintage to rave reviews.
The counter balance, with a more traditional approach, was Antigal’s Uno Malbec 2019, also made with organic Malbec grapes and produced solely in stainless steel tanks (no wood/oak influence).
I was previously introduced to Antigal in 2018 (see story). Obviously a lot has happened in the world since then, so it was a pleasure to receive a sample of the current vintage of this wine to reacquaint myself. Proudly bearing its metallic numeral 1 breast plate, this wine comes from Antigal’s Uno collection.
Domaine Bousquet Gaia Nouveau Malbec 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00 (100% Malbec, certified organic) This wine presents with fresh berry aromas. It is light bodied, with fresh berries and a hint of earth, with lively acidity and bright freshness on the dry palate with long length.
Antigal Uno Malbec 2019, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00 (100% Malbec, organic grapes) This wine has a pronounced nose with black and blue fruit, spice and vanilla, which persist on the dry palate, with ripe, medium-firm tannins, culminating with medium+ length.
Earth Day has come and gone, but while the holiday is a reminder that we must protect and cherish our planet, a single day is obviously not enough to do so. To a very real and certain extent, EVERY day should be Earth Day!
Although we can find fault with many industries and organizations, within the world of wine, there are a number of important and impressive examples of wine regions and individual wineries who are making the investment and having an impact with their actions.
In particular, Domaine Bousquet stands as a beacon, having been organic from the “get go”. Along these lines, winery owner, Anne Bouquet refers to herself as an “Organic Revolutionary” and an “International Citizen”, both of which are well deserved and apt descriptors of her commitment to sustainability in all that they do. She is joined by lead winemaker, Rodrigo Serrano, in their quest to lead the region in organic viticulture and sustainability efforts. This “teacher’s soul” has been at the winery for the past five years, and is truly passionate about details in achieving these overarching goals.
The winery has been Certified Organic for over 25 years and has also been certified by Demeter and Biodyvin for its conversion to biodynamic viticulture. They have recently added ROC (regenerative organic certification) certification to their list of organic certifications and are 360 sustainable.
Equally telling, as of this year (2023), they are now a certified B Corp organization. “B Corp Certification is a designation that a business is meeting high standards of verified performance, accountability, and transparency on factors from employee benefits and charitable giving to supply chain practices and input materials.” (From B Lab) Some of their wines also are certified as organic Kosher, Vegan and Gluten-free.
Yet, they are not content to rest on their laurels; future endeavors seek to reduce their CO2 and H2O footprints, especially as there is less snow in the mountains due to climate change.
The winery is also expanding its focus to address other issues such as making low calorie wine, low alcohol wine and organic wine (as opposed to making wine with organic grapes, but with conventional winemaking). In this regard, the biggest challenge is to avoid using SO2, which is an antioxidant and anti-microbial, among other things. These expansions have been challenging, but rewarding as the results are finally realized in the glass.
Across the pond, the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano consortium in Italy’s Tuscany region has been similarly hard at work in pushing a sustainability agenda. The result of its hard work was its award of the Equalitas standard’s sustainability certification, making it the first (and currently only) Italian wine denomination to achieve this milestone. The certification trademark extends to the entire region and is the result of a program initially implemented in the early 1990s and then built upon over the years.
To receive this prestigious certification entails “compliance with a high number of environmental requirements (like biodiversity and the measuring of carbon and water footprints) and socio-economic requirements (like verifying that the principles of freedom of association and equal opportunity are respected).”
Among these efforts, in 2006, the consortium partnered with the municipal government to collect organic waste from the vineyards for use in the production of combustion biomass to supply energy to school and government buildings. Further, the region’s Carbon Footprint project became a national model in 2015.
Of course, these commitments are not at the expense of their commitment to making high quality wine. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is among Italy’s top designated wines having been promoted to DOCG status in 1980. Yet, it often gets overshadowed by its Tuscan neighbors: Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, whose wines also sport the Sangiovese grape.
The good news is that these wines are often well priced and provide great drinking pleasure. So you can feel good about their commitments to the Earth as you enjoy swirling, sipping and savoring them in your glass.
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES: Domaine Bousquet
Domaine Bousquet LO CA Chardonnay 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $14.00 LO CA is a local calorie and low alcohol wine, which required numerous attempts to get it right due to ensure a wine that was stable and of the quality they desired. The resulting wine has 9% abv and 2% residual sugar. Green apple, musk and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate with high acidity, minerality, medium body and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Virgin Red Blend 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $13.00 A combination of 35% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Cabernet Franc, this wine is USDA-certified organic and sulfite-free. A fresh and easy drinking wine, it offers up berries, plum, floral and black cherry, with medium acidity, medium body and good length.
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Pinot Noir 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00 Made with certified organic grapes, this wine took many years to perfect since Anne is very particular about her Pinot Noir. The time and effort were worth it with its complex aromas of smoke, tart cherry, and an earthy undertone. It is medium bodied with bright acidity and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Gran Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00 A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec (both of which are certified organic), this wine presents notes of vanilla, oak, black fruit and a slight leaf character on the nose. With Medium+ body, good acidity, firm ripe tannins, and black and blue fruit, it is ripe yet dry, culminating in long length.
TASTING NOTES: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A recent walk-around tasting event provided attendees with the opportunity to taste through a collection of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines as well as meet a few of the winery representatives.
Maria Stella Carletti, Winemaker at POLIZIANO Winery
Here are a few of my favorites (notes are limited):
Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy 95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot Fresh, with decidedly herbal characteristics, firmer tannins and floral notes.
Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2018, Tuscany, Italy Sangiovese, Canaiolo and other authorized grapes Meatier, with really nice depth and riper fruit.
Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy 70% Sangiovese and other red grape varieties Floral, powerful, with darker fruit, less tannic than some of the other wines.
Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy 90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino With complex notes of smoke, oak, black fruit, it has a lighter structure and texture, with a distinct cherry and leafy palate.
La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy Sangiovese, Merlot Rich and ripe with dark cherry aromas and flavors, firm tannins.
La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2018, Tuscany, Italy Sangiovese, Mammolo Floral with lush, ripe red fruit, soft tannins and long length.
Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy 90-95% Sangiovese, 5-10% other grapes, including Canaiolo and Colorino Cherry and plum, with dusty tannins, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.
Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano S. Caterina 2019, Tuscany, Italy 100% Sangiovese Intense nose and palate, with ripe red fruit and long length.
Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggio Stella 2017, Tuscany, Italy mostly Sangiovese Lovely and soft, with cherries, berries and vanilla.
I’ve sung the praises of Domaine Bousquet in the past (See this article and that) and its wines continue to impress. Among the top export wines of Argentina, Domaine Bousquet continues to be the country’s leader in organic wines.
More specifically, Domaine Bousquet has been dedicated to organic viticulture since its very beginning. Today, there continues to be a clear and significant commitment to such activities.
These are well-made wines, available at a reasonable price, and are definitely great go-to wines you can feel confident to serve at your table or to gift to friends and family.
Tasting Notes
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Certified Organic Chardonnay 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, SRP $18 It was fresh and unoaked, with apple and citrus aromas and flavors, bright acidity, medium + body and long length. Overall, it was simply lovely and a big hit at our condo’s holiday party.
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Certified Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina SRP $18 With its intense nose of blackberry, pepper and oak, this wine displays good acidity, medium tannins, medium body and a slight woody note before culminating in long length. It is easy to drink and very enjoyable.
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Certified Organic Malbec 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina SRP $18 Lush dark berry fruit greets the nose, with a fresh palate, medium body, ripe tannins and a hint of spice in the finish, with long length. This was the perfect pairing with bison (our freezer is stocked with tons of bison thanks to a Costco delivery courtesy of my mom).
These wines may be purchased online or at a retailer near you.
While Peter Gabriel sings about “Digging in the Dirt,” Franco Bastias, Chief Agronomist for, and Anne Bousquet, owner of, Domaine Bousquet were “Dishing the Dirt” at a recent seminar presented over Zoom. I had previously met Anne (see this story) and it was a pleasure to see her again and make Franco’s acquaintance.
More specifically, while this presentation touched briefly on the history of Domaine Bousquet, the primary focus was on Domaine Bousquet’s dedication to organic viticulture and the way in which the existing soil types (aka dirt) influence the various wines they produce. The buzzword of the day was sustainability, but this isn’t just lip service; there is a clear and significant commitment to such activities.
This emphasis on sustainability can be traced to Domaine Bousquet’s very beginning when Anne’s father initially built a well and planted vines in 1998, choosing to farm organically from the start. By 2005 they had earned full certification.
In this and many other practices, Domaine Bouquet has set the stage for the region with several area wineries and vineyards following suit and converting to organic viticulture. Not surprisingly, this is a point of pride for Anne. As she noted, it is imperative that we keep the land we have for the next generation. Thus, it is an easy decision for her to not use chemicals.
As a consequence of their fully organic vineyard status, Domaine Bousquet started strong in Europe (in Switzerland, in particular). But, although Anne is understandably proud of the financial success of the winery, it is apparent that her real passion is on sustainable efforts.
Building on these initial efforts, more recently, a 360o sustainability commitment has been formally implemented to extend these practices to all areas of the venture. Taking a three-pronged approach, they apply this philosophy on social, economic and environmental levels. In this regard, they are actively reducing their carbon footprint and implementing water saving measures such as the use of recycled water for irrigation. Not content to rest on their laurels, they are presently pursuing multiple organic certifications as well as Demeter certification for biodynamic farming.
Yet, they realize that their company is so much more than vineyards and a winery; it is also people. Having made the decision to construct their winery in Tupungato, a small village with limited commerce, they knew that they would have to train and develop local talent to get the staff they needed to run the operation. In fact, most of their employees are from the local area and have since been trained in various areas of grape growing and winemaking. As a further responsibility to their human resources, part of the decision for Anne and her family to give up living in Argentina full-time (she splits her time between Tupungato and Miami), was to give the team a chance to grow.
Beyond the confines of Domaine Bousquet, Anne has focused on community development through the Fair for Life initiative. Recognizing the need to help others – which is particularly important in a rural area – they have provided money to those in economic hardship and have supported local children’s homes.
As an additional measure of their devotion to these issues, they recently hired a full-time employee to oversee environmental issues. Moreover, in 2015, they started their own import company, which has now become a leader in organic wine imports.
Most recently, Anne is in the process of setting up a website called “World of Organic,” which she hopes to complete by the end of the year. This consumer-facing site will pull together various resources, and share information and knowledge — all in a simple, clear, transparent format.
In the end, Domaine Bousquet has invested time, energy and talent to ensure that its vineyards are kept in the healthiest condition for generations to come, ensuring that they are well suited for grape growing and, ultimately, making great wine.
Furthermore, they have taken care to become intimately familiar with each parcel of land, matching individual soil characteristics to the grape varieties that will most benefit from those conditions. For example, calcareous soils lend a distinct minerality to Cabernet Franc; sandy soils maintain ripeness and permit irrigation without fear of fungus for Pinot Noir; and the ability to establish deep roots, enables Malbec to avoid rot due to humidity.
With its multi-level approach, Domaine Bousquet’s commitment to sustainability permeates throughout the company and permits Anne to accomplish her simple desire, “We just want to make the finest wines possible and sell them at prices people can afford.” This is a sentiment worth sustaining.
TASTING NOTES
Domaine Bousquet Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $13 Pronounced nose of citrus, mineral. Dry palate with high acidity, medium body, fresh and lively flavors of candied lemon, minerality and green apple, with long length.
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Chardonnay 2019 / SRP $18 Fermented in oak, then aged in wood for 6 months. Aromas of bruised apple, oak. Dry, medium to full bodied with medium+ acidity, slight smoke/oak on palate, culminating in long length. Domaine Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 / SRP $13 Blackberry and herbal notes on the nose. This easy drinking wine is dry, with medium acidity, medium body, berries, herbs, and long length. Domaine Bousquet Gaia Cabernet Franc 2018 / SRP $20 Displays woodsy, wet leaves and black fruit aromas. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium+ to full body, flavors of oak, spice, black fruit, medium+ tannins, and long length. Domaine Bousquet Reserve Pinot Noir 2019 / SRP $18 On the nose, this wine offers up notes of smoke, herbs and black cherry. A very elegant wine, it is dry with good acidity, medium body, light to medium tannins, earthy and cherry flavors and long length. Domaine Bousquet Gran Malbec 2018 / SRP $25 This is a blend of 85% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah. Aged in French oak for 10 months. Smoke, black and blue fruits greet the nose. The dry palate shows medium acidity, full body, black and blue fruits, slight oak, spice, firm tannins, intensity, concentration and long length.
The fires of Beltane have come and gone, ushering in warmer weather and brighter days as we await next month’s Summer Solstice. For me, this means outdoor dining and, while outdoor dining took on new meaning this past year, there’s something about eating outside that generally adds to the ambience (although less so in February — at least in New York). Of course, with lovely weather, verdant lawns, delicious food and great friends, a picnic is an especially lovely experience. Thus, my tiffin box and I were delighted to take to the park recently in search of sun, al fresco fare and good company, accompanied by good wine.
I can still remember one of my first picnics as a young child. I simply draped a cloth on an old tree stump and proceeded to enjoy my lunch. As I got older, my picnics became more elaborate, particularly when my husband and I began to explore the joys of picnicking on our first visit to France together. This is not particularly surprising given that the word pique-nique dates to 17th century France. In any event, we would attend the local farmer’s market, select an assortment of bread, cheeses, meats and a bottle of wine before finding the perfect spot in which to partake of our meal. These pleasant memories set the stage for our future outings in parks, at polo events and elsewhere.
Consequently, today, picnics are a big part of our summer plans and I am always at the ready with my picnic backpack, picnic blanket and the aforementioned tiffin box. While I take great pleasure in the creation of a beautiful meal in a beautiful setting, your ideal picnic might simply be a blanket and baloney sandwiches. Neither one of is right, as long as we are both having a great time!
That being said, I do feel that any meal is elevated by the presence of wine and picnics are no exception. Seek out fresh whites, crisp rosés and bubbles of all shades as refreshing, food friendly and fun options to adorn one’s outdoor feast.
Here are some wonderful wine options to get you started!
WHITES Veramonte Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Casablanca Valley, Chile, $11.99 From the cool Casablanca Valley in Chile, this wine offers up fresh herbal and citrus aromas, which persist on the palate with zippy acidity, medium body and good length. As an organic wine, it represents only a small percentage of Chilean vineyards that have sought out this designation.
Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00 From the highly respected producer, Merry Edwards, this Sauvignon Blanc is a more concentrated option with rich fruit notes of pear and citrus along with an herbal character on the nose. It provides good acidity, is slightly riper than the 2018, with medium-to-full body and very long length. This is a pricier option than the others listed here, but is definitely worth the splurge. For more on Merry Edwards, see these stories: – In Pursuit of Pleasure, Promise and Pinot – Making Merry for the Holidays
Vilarnau Brut Reserva NV, Cava, Spain, $14.99 Cava producer, Vilarnau, has been around since 1949 and is located in the of heart of Catalonia in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, just outside Barcelona. Its current labels pay homage to Antoni Gaudi, whose many masterpieces can be found in the city. Also an organic wine, this traditional blend of Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo, is aged over 15 months in bottle, with toasty, yeasty, apple notes on the nose and palate, good persistence of bubbles, and long length.
Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Extra Dry, Treviso, Italy, $13.00 Founded in 1960, this family-owned winery is now run by Giovanni Corvezzo, who was responsible for converting the vineyards to organic farming in 2013, and has since earned its organic certification in Italy. With a very fresh nose of cotton candy, pear and floral notes, this lovely sparkler is dry on palate, with good persistence of bubbles, vibrant acidity and long length.
ROSES Domaine Bousquet Gaia Rosé 2020, Mendoza, Argentina, $20.00 While I had the pleasure of tasting wine with Anne Bousquet just before the pandemic, this is a new wine from the winery. Produced from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, the nose is redolent of raspberries and strawberries that persist on the dry palate, along with medium+ acidity, medium body and long length.
Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Rosé Extra Dry, Millesimato Treviso, Italy, $13.00 It’s official! Prosecco can now legally be produced as a rosé sparkling wine. Another organic and vegan option from Corvezzo, this wine offers up aromas of berries, cherry and peach, with beautiful freshness on the palate, and a gentle perlage, along with long length.
Vilarnau Brut Reserva RoséDelicat NV, Cava, Spain, $15.99 From the same producer noted above, with its Gaudi-inspired label, this sparkling rosé is soon to be certified organic. A blend of 85% Garnacha and 15% Pinot Noir, the wine displays fresh floral and berry notes with a lovely dry, effervescent palate, and balanced acidity, culminating in long length.
If you desire your own very special picnic without doing all the work, check out Perfect Picnic.
Above: Piattelli Vineyards Cafayate, image courtesy of the winery.
While winter is upon us in the Northern Hemisphere, those in the Southern Hemisphere are basking in the glow of summer. And, with the reverse seasons, grapes are presently growing in wine producing countries such as Chile and Argentina, which will eventually become the first vintage of the 2021 calendar year. These two countries are both important and unique for their respective climates, terrain and growing conditions, which lend themselves to producing world-class wines.
I recently had the opportunity to taste through a selection of wines from Argentina, which provided me with a broad diversity of drinking options. They spanned the gamut from north to south, with a Torrontes from the high altitude (5600ft) of Cafayate, a Malbec blend from Mendoza’s Uco Valley and a Pinot Noir from Patagonia, one of the southern-most winemaking regions in the world. This selection of wines reflected the unique and varied climates that make up the wide range of wine growing regions of the country.
Situated in Argentina’s northern-most wine region, Cafayate prides itself as being the highest wine-making region in the world. The dry, arid climate offers up a significant quantity of sunlight, permitting the grapes to ripen fully, while the cool nights retain acidity in the grapes. Among the wineries located here, Piattelli Vineyards was founded in the 1990s. With facilities in two locaations, Alejandro Nesman serves as Piattelli’s Lead Winemaker in Cafayate.
With a much lengthier tenure in the country, Bodega Norton celebrated its 125th anniversary in 2020 (see story). Founded in 1895, the winery was established in Mendoza, Argentina. Named a Top 10 South American winemaker by Decanter magazine, David Bonomi has held the post as Chief Winemaker since 2014, and is only the 3rd winemaker at the winery in the past 50 years, maintaining its heritage and legacy.
Located at the southern tip of South America, in Neuquén, at 39º South Latitude, Familia Schroeder was launched in 2001 by Herman Heinz Teodoro Schroeder, the son of pioneering German immigrants. Working in concert with his children, the family has sought to transform a desert area into vineyards.
TASTING NOTES
Piattelli Vineyards Reserve Torrontés 2019, Cafayate, Argentina, $15.99 Twenty percent of this wine was aged for two months in French oak. On the nose, it offers up aromas of peach and spice, while the refreshing, dry palate shows flavors of nectarine and mango, with medium+ acidity, medium body, and long length.
Familia Schroeder Saurus Select Pinot Noir 2018, Patagonia, Argentina, $18.99 This wine displays notes of cherries, floral and cinnamon on the nose. It has high acidity, with medium body, and notes of cherries, spice, peppery, with hint of cocoa in finish, culminating in long length. Nearly half (40%) of the wine was aged for nine months in new French oak barrels, the balance in stainless steel.
Bodega Norton Lote Negro Unique Edition 2015, Uco Valley Mendoza, Argentina, $38.99 This blend of 65% Malbec and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon leads with aromas of blackbery and blueberry, along with spice and wood. The dry palate, displays medium acidity, full body, dusty tannins, with ripe, elegant fruit and long length. While showing well now, it Ideally needs a few years time in the cellar to age and evolve.
Growing up in a winegrowing family near Carcassonne, Anne Bousquet wanted nothing to do with the industry. It didn’t appeal to her in the least and she was determined to get an education, open up her options and pursue financial independence among other lifelong goals. No one told her resistance is futile.
In pursuit of her dreams, Anne attended college in Toulouse to study economics. During her studies, she moved to Minnesota as an exchange student in order to improve her English (and also ended up meeting her future husband – an exchange student from Spain). As a result of this experience, she was offered the opportunity to earn a master’s degree in economics, becoming an economist and eventually moving to Boston where she analyzed the wood and paper industries. Anne was very happy with her life and was doing well in her career.
During this time, her father had launched Domaine Bousquet. While most people go on vacation and bring home a crappy t-shirt 😊, Anne Bousquet’s father ended his Argentine vacation with the purchase of land. His dream was to plant one of the first vineyards in the Tupungato area. He planted his vines between 1998-2000 and produced his first wine in 2003.
With wine ready to sell, Anne’s father turned to her for assistance. Anne’s husband jumped at the chance, and, while Anne agreed, she kept her economics job to pay the bills. The two moved to Europe in the mid-2000s, introducing the European market to their organic Argentine wines. Anne and her husband attended their first ProWein in 2005 and, by 2008, Domaine Bousquet was selling 1 million bottles annually, entering the U.S. market around this time. In 2009, Anne resigned from economics altogether to devote herself full-time to the winery, moving from Europe to Tupungato. Two years later, Anne’s father retired, placing her directly in charge of production and finance, while her husband is responsible for sales.
In 2015, Anne and her family moved yet again, this time to Miami, when they decided to start their own import company. The winery presently exports 98% of its production, thanks to strong demand outside of the country, selling 4.5 million bottles annually worldwide.
From the very beginning, Domaine Bousquet has been keenly focused on organic farming, receiving its organic certification in 2005. This approach has been very important to them and has been a point of differentiation in the market. Not surprisingly, Domaine Bousquet has always been a leader in organic production in Argentina. As a Certified Organic winery, Domaine Bousquet takes this commitment very seriously. While some vineyards may ascribe to organics during favorable years and use chemicals during tough times, they are not permitted to make such adjustments if they wish to keep their organic certification.
Thankfully, the climate and terrain of Argentina and the Mendoza region (more specifically) lend themselves well to growing grapes organically. As the driest wine region in the world, Argentina’s vineyards are generally free from mold and mildew issues that require extensive spraying and intervention elsewhere. Additionally, the high altitude of Argentina’s winegrowing regions maintains acidity and crispness in the grapes and thus the resulting wines.
More recently, under Anne’s direction, Domaine Bouquet wanted to get to the next level of organic certification, especially in the U.S. Although all their wines have always had lower sulfite levels than conventional wines, they have chosen to achieve USDA Organic certification for their new Virgen wines by excluding the addition of any sulfites at all. These wines are also Certified Sustainable, Gluten-Free and Vegan Friendly (they use bentonite to fine their wines rather than egg- or fish-derived fining agents).
The first Virgen wine was a red blend (bringing together Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec), made in 2018. It sold out in three months, prompting them to increase production with the next vintage, adding a Malbec and a Cabernet Sauvignon to the lineup in addition to the original red blend.
In speaking about these new wines, Anne acknowledges that the biggest risk to the Virgen line is temperature fluctuation during travel and stocking issues with exposure to heat. “It’s pure; it’s a naked baby.” Yet, when tasting the wine two years later, they have found it still to be fresh and clean, despite its lack of added sulfites, which generally act as a preservative and anti-oxidant.
Moreover, they want to boost production of their sparkling wines (which they produce using both the Charmat and Traditional Methods) since they can give consumers Certified Organic sparkling wines – something they can’t really get from Champagne and many other regions. And, they can scale their production to meet perceived demand, due to their 700 acres and supplemental growing contracts.
The winery’s Gaia line, named for a goddess from Greek mythology, is now available only on-premise (at restaurants / not for retail sale). Initially developed with a red blend and a white blend, it also now includes a varietal Cabernet France (a first for them) and a Malbec. Anne notes that Cabernet Franc has been gaining in popularity in the region, prompting them to craft this wine.
Finally, Anne presented us with Ameri, Domaine Bousquet’s top icon wine. As she explained, all of the wines have Anne’s name on it, so they decided to create one wine with her husband’s name – his last name is Alimeri!
All in all, despite her initial resistance, Anne has made a good life for herself and her family in the industry she swore she’d never work. And, the wines that she produces are not only well made, they are quite economic to buy. As for whether Anne’s pre-teen daughter will try to eschew the family business as her mother did, for now, she wants to be an actress or a chef. We’ll have to wait to see if her resistance is futile!
TASTING NOTES Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose Brut NV, Tupungato, Argentina, $13.00 Produced via the Charmat Method, this blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay has a beautiful, medium salmon color and a nice mousse. The dry palate offers up refreshing acidity, ripe berries and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Chardonnay 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $18.00 Aromas of nuts, apples and pear greet the nose and persist on the tongue. On the palate, the wine is dry with good acidity and a rich, round, full body, culminating in long length.
Domaine Bousquet Virgen USDA-certified organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Tupungato, Argentina, 13.00 This is a beautifully light Cabernet Sauvignon, with medium body and light tannins. It is fresh and clean, with black fruit, a slightly leafy note and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Virgen USDA-certified organic Malbec 2019, Tupungato, Argentina, $13.00 Much more intense than its sister Cab, the Malbec is concentrated with juicy, ripe fruit of plum and blackberries with light to medium tannins, medium body and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Gaia Cabernet Franc 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $20.00 A lovely wine with good complexity of aromas and flavors including cranberry, blueberry and dried herbs. The palate provides a beautiful texture. culminating in long length.
Domaine Bousquet Gaia Malbec 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $20.00 This wine is fresh with lush, dark red and black fruit, along with peppery, spicy notes and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Ameri 2017, Tupungato, Argentina, $36.00 Bringing together Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot and then aged in French oak for 16 months, this wine displays strength and elegance, with medium tannins, red and black fruit and long length.
It’s Valentine’s Day week, with the addition of the newly created Galentine’s Day and the usual backlash against this “Hallmark Holiday.” But, whether you are reaching for all things red and romantic or boycotting it altogether, there’s no denying the love that exudes from wine brand Bodega Norton, which celebrates its 125th anniversary this year. Sharing lots of love with the New York wine press, the brand’s Chief Winemaker (David Bonomi) and Sales & Marketing Director (Santiago Galli) visited New York earlier this month as the third visit of a total of 125 to mark this momentous occasion.
Founded in 1895, Bodega Norton got its start when a British engineer, Edmund James Palmer Norton, was stationed in South America to build a rail line connecting Chile and Argentina and fell in love with an Argentine woman. Completely smitten and unwilling to leave her, he gave up his engineering career and established the winery in Mendoza, Argentina.
The winery continued to grow and flourish under the Norton family until it was purchased in 1989 by Gernot Langes-Swarovski of the Austrian crystal company. Drawn by his passion for wine, Gernot recognized the beauty and quality of Bodega Norton. To protect his investment, he sent his son, Michael Halstrick, to Argentina to lead the winery as CEO. Equally charmed as the original founder, Michael, too, met and fell in love with an Argentine woman, married her and now lives full-time in Argentina with his family, shepherding the winery towards ever-continuing excellence.
Joining Michael in his pursuit of excellence, David Bonomi has held the post as Chief Winemaker since 2014, and is only the 3rd winemaker at the winery in the past 50 years, maintaining its heritage and legacy. He had been with the company previously and his deep affection for Bodega Norton was evident as he spoke about the vineyards and wines.
Named a Top 10 South American winemaker by Decanter magazine, David was born into an Italian winemaking family (originally from Piedmont) and fell in love with wine at an early age. His first passion was viticulture, and, while he eventually studied enology as well, it is clear that he comes alive in the vineyard. With 33 years as a professional winemaker and viticulturist, David loves discovering the capabilities of new (to Argentina) varieties, such as Gruner Veltliner as well as new vineyards (in Uco Valley and Patagonia). He then crafts his interpretation of a place into wine.
Speaking about the Swarovski family, David described their arrival as a merger between Latin passion and European vision. He further noted the influence that the family’s attention to detail in the crystal business was infused into the existing culture at Bodega Norton, along with a strong emphasis on sustainability and best practices. Moreover, their commitment to quality production extends to their growers; the minimum contract is 10 years with shared investment in netting and other necessary equipment.
The winery’s five estate vineyards are all found in the foothills of the Andes Mountains, comprising a total of 1,750 planted acres that range in age from 30 to 80 years old. They are situated within Mendoza’s Lujan de Cuyo district and further delineated in a special area known as primera zona (first zone) for the quality of the grapes.
This is truly the desert, with limited water (they are limited to irrigating with snow melt from the mountains) and challenging conditions to create wine. As David explained, there are two climates here: hot and dry and, in more difficult vintages, cool and rain. But, their long-term vision keeps them going. And, that is a true labor of love!
TASTING NOTES
During the lunch celebration, we had the great fortune to taste through a selection of current wines as well as a vertical of the winery’s top wine, Gernot Langes. The Gernot Langes was first produced in 2003 and honors Bodega Norton’s current owner, Gernot Langes Swarovski. Assessing seven vintages ranging from 2006 to 2016, it was apparent that the wine is not a photocopy, but rather, it is a wine that differs from vintage to vintage. Moreover, while only the 2016 vintage is available, the exercise demonstrated the wine’s ability to age and develop with time.
Bodega Norton: 1010 Bubbles NV, Mendoza, Argentina, $13.00 Produced via a special Charmat Method to create fine bubbles and retain the fresh fruit aromas of Gruner Veltliner, the wine is bright with slight floral and citrus and pear notes, delicate mousse, long length.
Bodega Norton Reserva Malbec 2018, Luyan de Cuyo, Argentina, $19.00 Made with 100% Malbec, David now adds a small mount of fruit from the Uco Valley to the wine to give it additional complexity. It offered up notes of plums, figs, black current with a savory and leafy undercurrent. The palate displayed good acidity, with medium-firm tannins, medium+ body and long length.
Bodega Norton Privada Family Blend 2016, Luyan de Cuyo, Argentina, $22.00 Bringing together 40% Malbec (for structure) , 30% Cabernet Sauvignon (for body) and 30% Merlot (for acidity), this wine was originally kept just for the family to enjoy with friends, but has since been produced as a commercial wine. The use of oak is very limited, so it is not overt on the palate. Notes of spice, black cherry and blackberry greet the nose. On the palate, it is more structured than Reserva Malbec, as well as richer and rounder with a smoky note in the very long finish.
Bodega Norton Gernot Langes 2016, Mendoza, Argentina, $105.00 A blend of 30% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine was aged in oak for 16 months, with an additional 14 months in bottle before release. Of the vintages we tasted, it was the freshest with an expressive, concentrated nose of black fruit, dried herbs, smoke, with good acidity, firm tannins, medium+ body, culminating in long length.
A flurry of events featuring the women of wine kicked off the season’s return after the summer hiatus. Admittedly, women in wine is both new and nothing new. As they say, behind every great man is a great woman. But, perhaps the more novel news is that women are now standing (in) front and center of (or at least next to) many men in the vineyards and wineries the world over.
While I missed it due to ill health, the Women in Australian Wine Awards honored the women who have made their mark in Australian wine. The world’s “first and only awards platform for women in wine,” was held on September 17 in New York.
Similarly, an event earlier in the month presented a wide range of Wines of Sicily, recognizing the women in this region. I had the opportunity to meet Lilly Ferro Fazio, Export Manager of Casa Vinicola Fazio, who shared her experiences in bringing together the women of her region and noting the challenges they faced amidst a very traditional/male-dominated society. She addressed the need to find support and resources to successfully manage both her job and the family household because her husband still expects her to fulfill a traditional spousal role in addition to her career.
Another wine woman bucking the trend of being a simple, stay-at-home mom, is Argentine winemaker, Susana Balbo who initially applied to study nuclear physics in Bariloche. Her parents would not permit her to leave Mendoza, but, not one to be deterred, she eventually became the first woman in Argentina to earn a degree in enology. By 2012 she had been named as one of the “Most influential women wine-makers” by The Drink Business magazine, and, six years later, was listed among “The 10 most influential women in the wine world” in the same publication.
Today, Susana Balbo produces wines in both Mendoza and Salta regions. Her wines are well respected and can be found in the market under two labels: her namesake Susana Balbo and her Crios line. The Crios portfolio recently underwent a makeover, sporting new packaging that emphasizes the wines’ elegance and classic nature. Available in four different varietal options, the wines were recently released in the New York market.
Crios Torrontes 2018, Cafayate (Salta) and Valle de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00 Pronounced nose with floral, tropical fruit, hint of cotton candy and a dry, yet ripe, palate with medium-to-full body, medium acidity and long length.
Crios Rose 2018 of Malbec, Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00 Notes of strawberry, cherry and watermelon greet the nose. The palate is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, culminating in long length.
Crios Malbec 2018 Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00 Deep in color, this wine displays fresh and dried herbs and blackberry aromas, which are joined by spice and red fruit flavors on the dry, full-bodied palate, with good length.
Crios Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00 The nose offers up lovely red and black fruit, which persist on the dry, full-bodied palate, with textural tannins, blackberry, black cherry, oak, with good acidity and long length.
Looking for a perfect pair of wines to take along to your next picnic? Look no further than Domaine Bouquet’s Sauvignon Blanc and Rose wines from the latest vintage. This Argentine duo are made from organically grown grapes, in vineyards situated within the high altitudes of Mendoza’s Uco Valley. Produced by the Bousquet-Al Ameri family, the winery has made wines for the past 15 years.
First established by Jean Bousquet, Anne Bousquet took over in 2011, joined by her husband Labid Al Ameri. The husband and wife team brought in consulting winemaker Paul Hobbs to improve their viticultural practices in 2015 and are presently working on their newest planting project, which features Grenache and Cabernet Franc.
However, their overarching goal is simply stated by Anne, “We just want to make the finest wines possible and sell them at prices people can afford.” What more could you want?
Tasting Notes Domaine Bousquet Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Tupungato Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, $13.00 A pronounced nose of tropical fruit, citrus and pineapple, with a dry palate of fresh fruit and a slight herbal note. It is easy to drink (perhaps a bit, too easy? 😊), and very refreshing with long length.
Domaine Bousquet Rosé 2019, Tupungato Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, $13.00 A blend of 45% Malbec, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Pinot Gris, this rosé is pale salmon in color. It is dry on the palate, with ripe raspberries, cherries and a hint of herbs, with medium acidity, medium body and long length.
