In late 2002, I had a proposal hearing with my dissertation committee. It was December and thus, holiday season, and I wanted to show my appreciation to them for ensuring that our meeting happened before year end. And what better way to say thank you than with bubbles? Around that time, we had become familiar with the sparkling wines from Pacific Echo. It was before we really knew a lot about wine other than the fact that we really enjoyed it, but we knew a good thing when we tasted it and it was a pleasure to share these wines with others. Thus, I ordered a half case from my local wine store and brought the bottles with me to campus, where it was well received by my committee members.
We continued to drink Pacific Echo’s wines periodically throughout the years, purchasing them from the same local shop, until one day, they no longer carried it and we were unable to find it elsewhere. We were definitely disappointed. But, all was not lost. It turned out that Pacific Echo had previously been known as Scharffenberger Cellars and, thanks to another shift in ownership in 2004, was, once again, hailing under that name.
Initially launched in 1981 by John Scharffenberger, the winery was focused on sparkling wine from its very beginning. John specifically choose the Anderson Valley, within California’s Mendocino County, as the ideal place to grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for this purpose. At the time, the valley was just gaining momentum as a quality wine area, with a bid for official recognition as an American Viticultural Area requested in 1982. However, it began to garner attention for the quality of its wines, which did well in its vineyards, thanks to new clones that could reliably ripen in the region’s cool, maritime climate. (Read the Anderson Valley’s full history here.)
Photo courtesy of Scharffenberger Cellars
More specifically, given the influence of the Pacific Ocean and the resulting fog, the area is very conducive to these two grape varieties, ensuring that they maintain good acidity. Thus, it is not surprising that Champagne producers found the region equally attractive for these same reasons. In particular, in 1989, Champagne Pommery partnered with John Scharffenberger, who eventually sold his portion of the company in 1995. In April 2000, it was Cliquot, Inc., Scharffenberger’s new marketing agent who changed the name to Pacific Echo to reflect the winery’s dedication to the Anderson Valley.
But, a few years later, in 2004, the winery was acquired yet again, this time becoming a member of the Roederer Collection, under the aegis of Champagne house Maison Louis Roederer, who had established itself in the Anderson Valley as early as 1982, with the production of its sparkling wine facility, Roederer Estate. And, as noted above, they restored the Scharffenberger moniker with its acquisition.
Yet, despite the numerous changes in ownership, there have been far fewer shifts in the winery itself. In this regard, Tex Sawyer served a winemaker from 1989 through 2018, at which point Jeff Jindra took over, becoming only the third winemaker in the winery’s history. With this consistency in winemaking leadership, it is no wonder that the winery continues to consistently produce high quality wines, irrespective of the name on the label. Accordingly, the wines remain well made and well appreciated, earning top marks from both Wine Enthusiast and Wine & Spirits magazines (and others). Moreover, at less than $25 for the Brut and $30 the Rose, these are fabulous finds for the money.
TASTING NOTES Scharffenberger Cellars Brut, Mendocino County (CA), USA, $24 I spent this past August observing my own made-up celebration: 31 days of pleasure. This meant that each day of the month included at least one intentional act of pleasure. Options were, of course, endless, but admittedly most of my choices centered around food and wine. On one occasion I chose to indulge in caviar, which paired beautifully with this wine, which spent about two years on the lees. It had a lovely mousse, with persistent bubbles, with aromas and flavors of apple, brioche, butter and yeast, culminating in long length.
Scharffenberger Cellars Rose, Mendocino County (CA), USA, $30 Although you never need a specific occasion or excuse to open up a bottle of sparkling wine, July 4th was the perfect opportunity to share the Scharffenberger Rose with dear friends while watching fireworks from their rooftop. With a stunning pale salmon hue, this wine displayed yeasty and toasty notes, along with cherries and berries. The effervescence was well integrated, and overall the wine was refreshing, lovely, and elegant, with long length.
While I have previously tasted and written about Georgian wine, it has been from a more clinical vantage point – tasting wines and taking notes at my own dining table or occasionally sampling one at an adventurous wine bar. However, it wasn’t until last week that I had a much more immersive experience with the wines, food and culture of Georgia, which was an absolute privilege and pleasure.
More specifically, in Georgian culture, guests are seen as a gift from God, which is exactly how I felt at a recent press dinner at the Brooklyn outpost of Chama Mama – a top Georgian restaurant with three locations in New York City.
Due to subway signal issues, I arrived slightly late, feeling a bit out of sorts and overwhelmed as I was introduced to a flurry of people and then further greeted a glass of wine: Chateau Buera Ojaleshi Rose 2021. But, within minutes, the group of us were easily comfortable with one another as we acknowledged both our differences and our shared roots of growing up in the Metro New York area.
Chama Mama’s Lasha Tsatava, wine director and Mariam Navdarashvili, chief marketing officer.
Presiding over the dinner were our hosts Nino Chiokadze, executive chef and Lasha Tsatava, wine director. We were also joined by Chama Mama’s chief marketing officer, Mariam Navdarashvili. While long on passion for Georgian wine, Lasha’s tenure in New York is limited to just a handful of weeks (although he has lived in the U.S. since 1998).
But, he is on a mission to share his love and passion for Georgian wine with the United States. In fact, he is so passionate about sharing these wines with the U.S. that he is co-founder with Erica Frey of the non-profit Saperica, whose “mission is to promote Saperavi and other Georgian grape varieties along with Georgian gastronomy and culture in the Finger Lakes, NY and around the U.S., by organizing and facilitating educational seminars and exchange programs between the regions, for wine and culinary professionals and enthusiasts.”
In fact, citing its incredibly long and rich vinous history (in 2017, conclusive evidence proved that Georgia was the birthplace of wines), Lasha was eager to share how Georgia and wine have been inextricably linked forever, which permeates throughout its culture and political history, a point he came back to on several occasions.
After our initial introductions, we gathered around the table to begin our feast, where we were greeted by a beautiful bowl of fresh, seasonal vegetables, including Persian cucumbers, brightly colored red radishes and other farm-fresh produce. From this first taste, our immersion into Georgian culture began.
Lasha explained that the seasoned salt found in a ramekin on the table was typical of NW Georgia, in the mountainous region of Georgia called Svaneti. Associated with the Argonauts and the Golden Fleece (thanks to its mention in Homer’s Odyssey), this area contains the most preserved culture of the country. Bringing together salt and a blend of spices, the mixture was delicious for dipping the aforementioned vegetables and simply enjoying them on their own.
Another important component of Georgian culture was the presence of bread (aka puri) on the table. Joining the vegetables and salt were simple mini baguettes and a flatter, pita-looking bread, both of which had been baked in a wood fired oven. We were encouraged to dip the bread in flavored sunflower oil, known as adjika. This spicy condiment was more flavor than heat and added a delicious dimension to enjoying the bread.
Appetites whetted, we turned our attention to the first course, which further showcased the season with a Spring herb salad, featuring aromatic, springtime tarragon in the dressing. This herby freshness paired beautifully with the white wine served alongside it: Chateau Buera Rkatsiteli 2022. This wine displayed lovely notes of citrus, hazelnut and salinity, with medium acidity, medium body and long length.
At this point, we were provided with a more formal introduction to our other (yet non-present) host of the evening – Château Buera. Buera is situated in Kakheti, an area that Lasha likened to the Napa Valley, and which represents 75% of the country’s plantings and 70% of its total wine production.
Château Buera was established in 2018 by Goga Maisuradze who is also the founder of Lopota Spa Resort and is responsible for spearheading tourism to the region. Here, the focus is on European wine making, while celebrating indigenous varieties (such as Rkatsiteli, Ojaleshi and Saperavi) and centuries-old winemaking. In this regard, Lasha described Buera as a modern, visionary producer and further shared that many of the wines had been aged, not just in oak, but also in clay vessels known as qvevri. Also important to note is that Chateau Buera utilizes sustainable agriculture practices in its vineyards and is in the process of obtaining BIO certification.
Equally important, as the meal progressed, we were given a glimpse into classic Georgian culture – the Supra, which is a feast hosted by a toastmaster, referred to as the Tamada. Clearly serving as our tamada, Lasha held his glass aloft and welcomed us to the table, noting our shared love of food, wine and travel, a very apropos toast and a lovely way to highlight how our shared experiences bring us all together.
Typically, these feasts feature immense tables heavily laden with food, dozens of people and toasts that last well into the night. Some of the extended nature of these events can be attributed to the Tamada’s nomination of an Alaverdi – someone nominated to elaborate on the toast. Fortunately, the nominations were limited and while our evening was no less memorable or special, it gratefully left us only tipsy and home before midnight.
Salad plates cleared, we were brought our second course, which consisted of a “Taste of Georgia,” starring four different pkhali (spreads) – spinach, cabbage, beans and eggplant – served alongside two different breads. These spreads are prepared with walnut paste and other seasonings such as garlic, cilantro and pomegranate. The bread options were the open faced, seasonal khachapuri, topped with fresh tarragon and basil and the imeruli khachpuri stuffed with farmers and other cheeses, which was reminiscent (to me) of a cheese borek.
Lasha suggested different combinations of the spreads with the bread options and added to the permutations by serving a trio of Amber wines. The Amber wine style is a category especially close to Lasha’s heart and one that they are actively building at the restaurant. While some people may be familiar with skin-contact, orange wines, they deliberately use the term Amber (instead of orange) as these are skin-contact wines that are specifically aged in clay qvevri.
Our flight consisted of an “Intro to Amber” wine, “Combo” and a “ ‘Full-On’ Amber”, denoting three different styles of these wines. Lasha explained that these wines provided a 3D experience with clay serving as a third dimension in addition to the more common use of stainless steel and oak.
Hailing from Western Georgia, the Intro wine (Tsolikouri Amber 2020, with one month of full skin-contact and six months in qvevri) offered up more fresh fruit with low tannins; more tannic than the Intro and with less fresh fruit character, the modern innovation Combo wine (Chateau Buera Qvevri Amber 2019) had been aged in oak. Finally, the “Full-On style (Pat’ra Marani Rkatsiteli 2021) was redolent of rich, dried fruit and was more overtly tannic on the palate. A similar Amber flight is always on offer at the restaurant as are ones featuring white wines, Saperavi wines and a trio of white, amber and red.
From breads and spreads, we shifted to heavier fare, with pork mtsvadi, pork skewers that had been marinated for at least 24 hours. The Chef further clarified that dried vine stems are used alongside the charcoal when cooking the meat. This course was served with the Château Buera Saperavi Reserve 2018, which had been aged in French oak for 12 months and then another 12 months in bottle, before release. This wine offered up beautiful notes of black cherry, chocolate and cocoa powder and toast, with good acidity, ripe tannins, full body and long length.
The pork plate was followed by lamb chops similarly marinated for a lengthy period of time and also sprinkled with pomegranates, adding sweetness and tartness in contrast to the meaty flavors. The chops were accompanied by the Dekanozishvili Dry Red 2017, a blend of 70% Saperavi, 20% Otskhanuri Sapere and 10% Shavkapito. The wine had been fermented in both qvevri and oak, aged in oak barrel for 18 months and had also been produced using the appassimento method of drying out the grapes over a period of months to naturally reduce their water content and thereby increase the concentration of flavors. At seven years of age, this showed some development on the nose and palate with aromas of smoke, toast, forest floor and black fruit. It was intense with heady flavors, culminating in very long length.
Nearly sated with food and drink, we were presented with one last course: Pelamushi, which is a “traditional Georgian sweet grape pudding topped with glazed walnuts”. To produce this dish, grape juice retained from during harvest is significantly reduced to concentrate the flavors and cooked with flour to produce a gelatinous, yet tasty, dessert. The course was paired with the Royal Khvanchkara Khvanchkara Red Semi-sweet 2018, from NW Georgia featuring a blend of the Alexandrouli and Mujeruli grapes.
As we lingered at the table a little longer, Lasha insisted upon us tasting a little Chacha, Georgian distilled beverage produced similarly to Grappa, produced from the Rkatsiteli grape and “blended with glacier-based water from the Caucasus mountains, aged in qvevri (handcrafted clay vessel) for 3-4 month and charcoal filtered before bottling”. It was very smooth, balanced and a refreshing palate cleanser.
We had finally come to the end of our evening and reluctantly bid our hosts farewell. We might not have quite become friends, but we certainly left feeling more connected, having shared a very special experience that truly immersed us in the ways of Georgian wine and food. Whether or not guests are seen as gifts from God, having been a part of this magical evening was truly a gift!
LIST of WINES TASTED
Chateau Buera Ojaleshi Rose 2021, Lechkhumi, Georgia
I’ve been in a different phase of my life right now, particularly marked by a shift toward drinking much less frequently and with much more intention. In this regard, I kicked off 2024 with what I referred to as “not quite a dry month, but definitely less of the hurricane that was December 2023”. As I have cut back my consumption, I have also sought out higher end wines that bring me much pleasure and savor them all the more as I am being more present and mindful of what’s in my glass.
I am also dealing with a breakup that has hit me really hard. I know that I will survive and come out the other side of this much stronger, but it has been challenging, especially since my last breakup was so long ago that I had forgotten how much it hurts. Moreover, while my consumption of Merry Edwards wines was never solely connected to my ex, we did enjoy a number of bottles together and the Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc was one of his favorites well before he met me, so drinking these wines is somewhat of a reminder of what was and will no longer be. A bittersweet note for sure, but, thankfully, not sufficient to keep me from enjoying them.
With these two influences on my drinking habits, I have been seeking out different ways to indulge in wine than I had done so previously. What this has meant has been a shift away from opening up a bottle of wine just to have a glass (although there is certainly nothing wrong with that) and more frequently, choosing, instead, to share it with dear friends or at least make it the centerpiece of a meal. And, in doing so, it has been a joy to open up and share the beauty and magic of Merry Edwards wines over the course of several months.
The world is also shifting, with both physical and metaphorical upheaval. Is it any wonder we are besieged by earthquakes and eclipses? In early April, we turned our attention skyward as the sun and moon chased each other across the celestial sky. While many were blasé about the event, others flocked to places near and far in search of totality. What is totality? It is “the whole of something” – a state of completeness. To a certain extent, we are all in search of that, whether we look upwards or inward.
Our friends at Merry Edwards were equally enamored with the eclipse, which coincided with the release of their Cuvée Eclipse Sparkling Wine. Not just labeled with this astronomical event, the grapes for this wine were harvested on August 21, 2017, the date of the last total solar eclipse visible from North America. Sourced from the Richaven Pinot Noir Vineyard at Merry’s home, this wine was aged for six years on the lees, and launched into the world just in time to enjoy with the most recent one.
I admittedly forgot about opening this wine to celebrate the eclipse (see aforementioned break up), but was thrilled to spread the sparkle with my dear friend, Gisela, when she joined me for dinner one night. It was absolutely stunning both visually and on the palate, with a lovely salmon color, tiny bead, complex aromas of cherry, citrus, yeastiness and nuttiness, all of which persist on the palate, with a creamy mousse and extremely long length.
For my husband’s birthday, we opened up the 2022 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc, always a family favorite and a beautiful example of this herbal grape variety. Having undergone barrel fermentation and lees-stirring, the wine has nice weight to it on the palate. More specifically, the wine offered up bright acidity, aromas and flavors of citrus and tropical fruit, floral notes and a touch of herbaceous character, culminating with long length.
The Olivet Lane Chardonnay 2021 was a welcome way to celebrate the end of a stressful work week and usher in a quiet weekend. As one of the oldest existing vineyards in the Russian River Valley appellation, this vineyard is considered to be a heritage property and has long been known as a producer of exceptional Chardonnay. Redolent of nuts, butterscotch, minerality and vibrant citrus aromas and flavors, this full-bodied wine offers up medium-to-high acidity and very long length.
Earlier on in the year, a cold, Sunday night in January found me enjoying the Merry Edwards Pinot Noir 2021, which displayed tart cherry, coffee and violet aromas, all of which persisted on the palate. With good acidity, medium body and long length, it was a wonderful accompaniment to my home cooked dinner.
More recently, we hosted an impromptu dinner party with our neighbors, Temple and Derek. What was supposed to be girls’ night out for drinks in the neighborhood, was amended to drinks in our apartment, thanks to very wet weather. When Temple and I realized that both of our spouses were also home, we eagerly engaged them in our plans, dashed back and forth between the apartments to gather the makings of our feast, and broke out the Meredith Estate Pinot Noir 2021, which was welcomed by all in attendance. While the Meredith Estate vineyard has always been farmed sustainably, it is now being farmed organically. It offered up deep plum, forest floor, floral, fresh berry and cherry aromas and flavors with medium body, bright acidity and very long length.
And, just a few days ago, a date night at home was the perfect reason to open up the Richaven Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021. This is Merry Edwards’ newest offering, sourced from the eponymous vineyard “located on Merry Edwards’ personal home ranch”. It was a true delight with meaty, dark cherry, plum and cocoa notes; firm, dusty tannins; medium acidity; full body; and very long length.
While I am still finding my footing in this post-break up world, I am surrounding myself more often with friends and family. It has certainly not been a total eclipse of my heart, as it is still open to love and pleasures of the world, especially those of the vinous variety. May you find your own footing in this weird world and may you always have something delicious in your glass. Salut!
LIST of WINES TASTED
Cuvée Eclipse Sparkling Wine 2017, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $100.00
Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $48.00
Olivet Lane Chardonnay 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00
Pinot Noir 2021, Sonoma Coast (CA), USA, $60.00
Meredith Estate Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $90.00
Richaven Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00
Based in Jerez de la Frontera, the González Byass company dates to 1835 and is a family-owned collection of highly respected wineries in Spain. Notably, its collection includes Bodegas Beronia (producing wine in both Rioja and Rueda), Dominio Fournier (Ribera del Duero producer), Cavas Vilarnau (Cava producer), Finca Constancia (producer of wines in Vino de la Tierra de Castilla), Finca Moncloa (based in Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz), Viñas del Vero (Somontano producer) and Pazos de Lusco (Rías Baixas wines).
Stateside, its U.S. subsidiary, González Byass USA, is an importer of these and other fine wines and spirits.
A recent event brought together a group of wine media professionals to Tasca a Spanish Caribbean restaurant on Manhattan’s Upper West Side to taste through numerous wines in the portfolio alongside tasty bites. According to Professor Henry Higgins, “The rain in Spain falls mostly on the plain…,” but the on the night in question, it was wet and cold. Thankfully, the event itself was warm and inviting, with an opportunity to meet new people and reconnect with colleagues over good wine and food.
More specifically, the evening was an informal celebration of the elegance and food friendly nature of these wines as we sipped and savored the wonderful wines and delicious cuisine. Overall, it was an important reminder to seek out Spanish wines given their quality and diversity and, in particular, to drink sherry and vermouth, which are less trendy, but deserve to be drunk more often.
We kicked off the tasting with a selection of charcuterie and small bites, served with Tio Pepe Fino (sherry) NV, La Copa Gonzalez Byass’s Vermut (vermouth) Extra Seco and Vilarnau Brrut Nature 2017 Cava. As we whetted our appetite with the aperitifs and appetizers, we turned our attention to a lovely Albarino (2022 vintage) from Pazos de Lusco from Rias Baixas.
An assortment of reds was on offer as well including Beronia’s Rioja Vareira 2019, Rioja Reserva 2018 and Beronia’s Graciano 2017 (Graciano is one of the permitted grapes in Rioja, but which is less frequently made into a single variety wine) as well as a Ribero del Duero 2019 from Dominio Fournier. To accompany the array of decadent desserts, we enjoyed an aged sherry, the Gonzalez Byass Apostoles 30 Year Sherry, which paired beautifully with all four, but especially the flan and the banana bread.
As we departed the restaurant and headed for home, we were well sated with great company, an exquisite meal and… a lull in the rain. A convivial evening indeed!
NB: Given the informality and conviviality of the event, I neglected to take notes, but to learn more about some of these wines, I invite you to check out the related, previous stories included below the photo gallery.
(Retail pricing is listed below.)
Vilarnau Brut Nature 2017: $20.99
La Copa Vermut Extra Seco: $24.99
Tio Pepe Fino NV: $19.99
Pazo de Lusco 2022: $24.99
Beronia Reserva 2018: $24.99
Dominio Fournier 2019: $29.99
Beronia Graciano 2017: $29.99
Beronia Vareia 2019: $79.99
Gonzalez Byass Apostoles: $49.99
Gonzalez Byass Matusalem: $49.99 (not tasted, but also present at the event)
As I wrote about last year (See story), an important shift in the Chilean wine landscape has been the recognition of what grapes are actually being grown in the vineyards. More specifically, a big emphasis has been on the grape variety, Carménère. If you are unfamiliar (or less familiar) with Carménère, you are not alone. In fact, the Chileans mistook Carménère for Merlot for decades, only correctly identifying it in Chilean vineyards in 1994. Carménère has now been embraced as a singularly Chilean variety, gaining respect and an understanding for how to grow and produce this grape.
This sister variety to Cabernet Sauvignon gets its name from the French word carmin, which translates as crimson, given the variety’s deep red color. It originally hails from France’s Bordeaux region, where it was among the red grapes permitted for Bordeaux wines back in the day. While it is still allowed, it is not readily found in France these days. By 1994, as it was rediscovered in Chile, less than 25 acres could be found in the Médoc, while today there are only 197 acres in total remaining in France.
In contrast, in that same year (1994), over 8,500 acres of supposed Merlot turned out to be Carménère. This figure has grown to 25,500 acres in 2021, after peaking at 34,000 in 2014 and, presently, Chile boasts the most Carménère vines in the world. Currently, there is a diverse mix of old vines – some as old as 80 years – and newer plantings, providing winemakers with a range of options from which to craft their wines.
With Cabernet Franc as the parent variety for both Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère, it is not surprising that the two share many of Cabernet Franc’s characteristics, including the pyrazine-influenced aromas and flavors. Most often described as green pepper or herbaceous notes, these aroma compounds shift more toward spicy, fruity flavors when the Carménère grapes are more fully ripe.
In this regard, Carménère can be produced in either a riper or cooler style, depending on what the winemaker hopes to achieve. Consequently, very ripe grapes display lots of spice, with darker fruit characteristics, yet often yield wines that are high in alcohol, body and intensity due to the warmer climate, extra time on the vine or both. Conversely, cooler climates and soils are more likely to produce wines with more pronounced vegetal aromas. Given the reduction in green pepper aromas, warmer regions, such as the Colchagua and Cachapoal Valleys, have had significant success with Carménère.
However, this robust style peaked in 2010 and has been on the decline in favor of a less ripe profile in more recent years. In particular, this stylistic shift was heralded in 2017 with the release of the Carménère Santa Rita Floresta. Since then, winemakers have strived to respect the vegetal characteristics and create balanced wines with both red and dark fruit flavors, along with more moderate alcohol and body.
Regardless of one’s preferred style, these wines are well made and generally provide a good price to quality ratio. A recent round up tasting included the wines below, which offered up a range of styles and price points. We were particularly impressed with the Viña San Esteban In Situ Carménère Reserva 2020, which, at $13.00, overdelivered and was a pleasure to drink.
I strongly encourage you to check out Chilean Carménère, but, love it or hate it, don’t call it Merlot!
Viña San Esteban In Situ Carmenere Reserva 2020, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, $13.00 A really lovely wine, especially at this price, the wine offers up aromas of smoke, blackberry, and oak, with very peppery and spicy notes. The full-bodied palate is dry, with medium acidity, medium body, ripe tannins and flavors of coffee, blackberry, earth, spice with long length.
Primus Carmenere 2020, DO Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile, $21.00 A very elegant wine produced from organic grapes, this wine has a fruity nose with black and blue fruit. The dry palate has medium+ body, medium acidity, and ripe, medium tannins, along with flavors of black and blue fruit, spice and cocoa and very long length.
TerraNoble CA2 2020 Carmenere Costa 2020, Colchagua Valley, Chile, $36.00 A beautifully complex wine with meaty, spicy, leafy and black cherry aromas. The palate is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium-to-full body, and ripe tannins. Blueberry and dried herbs dominate the palate, culminating in very long length.
Montes Wings Carmenere 2020, Apalta Valley, Chile, $55.00 Aromas of leafy herbs, red berries, and plum continue on the dry, smooth palate along with full body, medium acidity, oak, and very long length. Overall, a complex and elegant wine with fine tannins. You can learn more about Aurelio Montes, Sr. and Aurelio Montes, Jr. and the Montes winery in this story.
While summer and clambakes are behind us for now, the wines that accompany them don’t have to be put on hold. In this regard, winemaker Mary McAuley and her Clambake Wines are great accompaniments at the table anytime of year. And, with their luscious fruit and lovely minerality, these wines are actually a wonderful option for Thanksgiving, given their versatility and vibrant acidity.
Mary produces her wines under her Ripe Life Wines company and was first inspired to do so when she was less than satisfied with the options available when selecting wines for a friends’ annual clambake. A certified sommelier and graduate of the French Culinary Institute, Mary decided to solve the problem by making her own wine. Thus, her single-vineyard, Unoaked Chardonnay and Limited Edition Rose, were crafted in response. More recently, she added the Moules Blanc de Blancs Brut to her seafood-themed portfolio. Made with 100% sustainable grapes sourced from the Lodi Valley (CA), this methode champenoise sparkler is produced from 100% Chardonnay grapes.
Aromas of minerality and butter greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is fresh, with citrus and red apple flavors, medium-plus body, a slight toothpick texture and lovely, long length.
Hailing from the Hawkeye Vineyard, this rose is produced from 100% Pinot Noir grapes. It offers up notes of melon and strawberry. The dry palate shows bright acidity, medium body, with simple, but fresh and good fruit, culminating in long length.
Each year, I have the good fortune to hear from the PR person who represents Merry Edwards Winery offering me the opportunity to taste through the current selection of releases. And, every year, I gratefully accept and yet somehow take months to drink through the wines. I am a diligent and dependable person who meets deadlines at the office and yet these bottles linger in my wine cellar for months. Case in point, I received this latest set of wines in late May and yet here it is mid-September and I have only just finished tasting the last of the wines this week. Why?
Why indeed? I gave this quite some thought as the item to taste (and then write) about these wines languished on my “to do” list month after month.
Well, for one thing, I generally prefer to taste these wines alongside a lovely meal, share them with friends and family or both. These are special wines that I truly enjoy drinking with good company, eager to give others the opportunity to taste them as well. In this regard, I sometimes wait for the “perfect” dinner or the “special” occasion rather than just opening them up on a random Tuesday with leftovers. And, while there is nothing wrong with this in theory, in practice it means that lots of time lapses in between tastings.
Recognizing this propensity in myself, I chose to adopt a different philosophy over the past two weeks. We are likely all familiar with the phrase “Life’s too short to drink bad wine,” but it is true in that life is too short… period. End of sentence. We should celebrate the time we have and enjoy it to the best of our abilities. For some (myself included), the price point on these wines means that you can only indulge in them occasionally, but really, while these are, indeed, special wines, they don’t require a special occasion or the perfect moment to drink them. Thus, in accordance with this new approach, I changed tactics and drank the last three bottles in close proximity to each other. I was now done with tasting and could move on to writing.
In this regard, I often write about the climate and soil of the vineyards where the grapes for these wines are grown (see here for previous stories), which is relevant given that five of the wines below are of the same grape variety and it is their distinct environment that sets them apart from one another and accounts for many of the differences among them. But, at the end of the day, it is what the wine tastes like in your glass that has the most meaning, irrespective of microclimates and soil types.
Thus, what is perhaps more important to you, the reader, is identifying the style of the resulting wine and equally critical, the set and setting in which one drinks it. We all have preferences for different styles of wine, all of which are valid. Taking time to savor the aromas and flavors, seeing how the wine develops in the glass over the course of one’s meal and simply being in a great frame of mind — whether alone or joined by others — all contribute to our enjoyment, much more so than the formality of the meal or day of the week.
So, here are my tasting notes for each of these wines, along with the set and setting (to the best of my recollection as I wasn’t planning on including that information). I hope you will find a style that appeals to your palate and seek it out to sip and savor as we celebrate this thing called life!
Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Sonoma County (CA), USA, $48.00 Complex aromas of herbs, smoke, citrus/tangerine greet the nose and persist on the palate with vibrant acidity, medium+ body and long length. I opened up this bottle with dinner featuring tuna steaks on Monday, July 3 (the eve of the July 4th holiday) to celebrate the deep bonds of friendship that my husband and I share with our dear friend Gisela, all of whom greatly appreciated this wonderful wine.
Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $75.00 Redolent of ripe, dark cherries, herbs, cocoa and a hint of leather, this rich and robust wine was dry on the palate with bright acidity, medium+ body and very long length. My friend Rob and I spent the weekend of June 30-July 2 at the Riverwind Inn B&B in Deep River, CT and opened up this bottle to toast our weekend away, sitting on balcony and taking in the view of the property’s gardens.
Merry Edwards Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $65.00 Very herbal in character, this wine offers up plum and cherries, with notes of both fresh and dried herbs. The dry palate had medium acidity, medium+ body, noticeable yet ripe tannins and long length. While not deliberately opened up in honor of Bastille Day, I did enjoy this wine with dinner with my husband on Friday, July 14. I don’t recall what we ate, but we definitely loved the wine!
Merry Edwards Georganne Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $70.00 This wine was more fruit driven than the others, but was still quite elegant, with dark cherry aromas and flavors and a slight earthy character. The palate displayed bright acidity, medium+ body and dusty tannins, culminating in long length. I shared this wine on Saturday, September 9 with my aforementioned friend, Rob, at his home in Stamford, CT where we collaborated on creating a delicious lentil and sweet potato dish from the New York Times (find the recipe online here). NB: Dish is pictured above.
Merry Edwards Coopersmith Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $70.00 This wine displayed floral aromas along with red and black cherries and berries on the nose and palate. It had good acidity, with medium body and long length. As a quiet moment before the hustle and bustle of the week ahead, my husband and I shared this bottle of wine over dinner (pasta with pesto sauce and parmesan cheese) on Sunday, September 10.
Merry Edwards Dach Pinot Noir 2021, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $75.00 The most structured of the bunch, this wine provided a variety of aromas and flavors including herbs, dark red fruit and earth, with an herbal undercurrent. It had firm tannins, full body and long length on the dry, vibrant palate. While my husband was away for the weekend, on Friday, September 15, I celebrated the end of my work week with dinner on my own, which consisted of yummy pork chops wrapped in bacon and rosemary and this beautiful wine. Then I continued to enjoy the wine as I binge-watched Glow Up on Netflix.
If you are familiar with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, chances are that it was from Marlborough. This region, situated on the South Island, has been a staunch supporter of this grape variety and is credited with putting it on the world stage with its bold style. Of course, Marlborough successfully grows other grapes such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
With the region’s growth and popularity, member wineries have banded together to ensure that their appellation is protected through the creation of Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW), which was trademark registered in 2018.
More recently, AMW released the ‘Wine Map of Marlborough’ as a way to delineate the wine-growing region in more detail. AMW’s primary purpose is to guarantee origin and typicity of the Marlborough wines as well as to safeguard the region for the future through its commitment to sustainability processes and standards. Any wine bearing the AMW mark is guaranteed to be produced from 100% Marlborough grapes.
In keeping with this mission, AMW commissioned New Zealand cartographer, Roger Smith, and local designer, Megan Boreham to produce this official map. The venture took two years, but the map’s debut in 2023 beautifully coincides with the 50th anniversary of the first commercial planting of grapevines within Marlborough. Moreover, the project seeks to recognize the micro-climates and diverse soil types found within Marlborough and, additionally, it codifies formal borders for areas that have been identified more colloquially over the past several decades. The map is considered to be a work in progress as borders are more clearly defined and new sub-regions are introduced.
For now, the Marlborough region can be subdivided into three main macroregions: Wairau; Awatere and Blind River; and Southern Coast. Within each, there are further demarcations of sub-appellations such as Lower Wairu and Central Wairu within Wairau.
Of course, maps are great resources and tools, but if you are really looking to discover Marlborough’s wines, the best way to do so is to pick up a bottle and enjoy it.
TASTING NOTES Here are a few Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs that I recently enjoyed:
Catalina Sounds Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, NZ, $27 Pronounced nose, jumped out of the glass with aromas of grass, cat’s pee, grapefruit and lime. The palate was bright and lively, with fresh citrus fruit, medium body, medium-plus acidity and long length.
Mount Riley,Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, NZ Less pronounced than the Catalina Sounds, but certainly no shrinking violet. Aromas of lemon, lemon candy and slight hint of herbs greet the nose, joined by minerality on the palate, with vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.
Spy Valley, Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, NZ, $22 This wine is beautifully aromatic with minerality, honeysuckle, herbs and lemon/citrus, all of which persist on the palate. Good acidity, medium bodied, culminating in long length.
Last week we were excited to participate in a Silent Disco event at Fort Tryon Park with friends and neighbors. Yet, at the last minute, the event was postponed due to inclement weather. Yuck! (And good call on the organizers’ part as dancing in the rain with expensive headphones isn’t a great idea). But, we were disappointed not to get together and enjoy each other’s company.
Accordingly, we moved the celebration indoors, sans dancing, and invited the group to gather at our apartment. I offered up wine; our neighbors said they’d bring snacks. True to their word, H and T arrived at our door with a tray, bearing cheeses, salami, fruit and crackers. Meanwhile, I had set the table with a few snacks of our own and had chilled several wines from El Coto. Situated in Spain’s Rioja region, this winery was established in 1970 and is still going strong.
Despite the wet weather, it was still a hot and muggy summer night, so we were all eager to enjoy some chilled wines. The El Coto Blanco and El Coto Rose were the perfect options to pair with our impromptu party!
I opened up the rose first and the bottle was soon empty (a clear crowd favorite!), necessitating that we turn our attention to the white, which was also greatly appreciated by our guests. As it grew late, we wrapped up our conversations, and cleaned up as everyone soon cleared out. All in all, it was a lovely evening!
A few days later, I opened up the El Coto Crianza, which had been touted as being a red wine capable of being chilled. My previous experience with chilled reds has been primarily limited to Beaujolais and other fresh and fruity reds; I wondered how the Rioja would fare with time in the fridge. I needn’t have worried; it was really nice and paired well with my leftover paella.
Looking for refreshing wines to enjoy on a hot summer day? Look no further than this trio from El Coto!
TASTING NOTES
El Coto Blanco 2022, Rioja, Spain, SRP $11.99
This wine is a blend of 93% Viura, 4% Sauvignon Blanc and 3% Verdejo. It displays notes of citrus and pear on the nose. The dry palate provides medium acidity, medium body and flavors of citrus, pear and apple, culminating in long length.
El Coto Rose 2021, Rioja, Spain, SRP $11.99
Bringing together Rioja’s traditional Tempranillo (90% ) and Garnacha (10%), this beautifully-hued salmon pink wine offered up aromas and flavors of raspberry and strawberry. It is fresh and lively, with medium acidity, medium body, and medium plus length. Easy drinking and very food friendly.
El Coto Crianza 2019, Rioja, Spain, SRP $16.99
Sporting 100% Tempranillo, this wine was aged in oak for at least 12 months with an additional six months in bottle, prior to release, as befits its Crianza designation. Aromas of wood, blackberry and raspberry greet the nose. The palate is dry, with bright acidity, flavors of berries, oak and spice, with medium plus body and medium length.
It’s the duck days of summer. It’s been super hot and then…not! But, if you are a lucky duck, you’ve got Duck Pond Cellars’ wines in your glass. In particular, their Natural Path Production wines perfectly hit the spot whether it’s 70F or 90F.
The Dundee, Oregon-based winery was founded in 1993 and has always been committed to sustainability. Its grapes are organically farmed and hand-harvested, with continued attention to detail once they reach the winery. More recently, they have become involved in the Clean Label Project, a non-profit organization “whose mission is to bring truth and transparency to food and consumer product labeling.”
Launched under the Natural Path Production line, Duck Pond’s first wines were certified by this organization with the 2020 vintage, making them the first wines in America to receive this certification.
In adherence to the certification program, the ingredients are clearly stated on the label. Additionally, they testify to low sulfite use (<=100 PPM), vegan-only fining agents and the non-use of Glyphosate and Neonicotinoid pesticides.
Equally important to Duck Pond’s focus on natural production, is that these wines are well made and well-priced, ranging from $15-$19 per bottle (winery prices; might be higher at your local wine shop). As of now, there are four wines in the Natural Path line up: Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Rose (not tasted) and Pinot Noir.
Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Pinot Gris 2022, Willamette Valley (OR), USA, $16.00 On the nose, this wine displays notes of tangerine and smoke, which persist on the dry palate. The wine is quite luscious, with bright acidity, medium body and long length.
Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Chardonnay 2021, Oregon, USA, $15.00 This wine offers up melon and butter aromas and flavors, and an oak undercurrent, with medium acidity, medium plus body, and long length. It was a crowd pleaser at a recent gathering of friends.
Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Pinot Noir 2021, Oregon, USA, $19.00 Fresh aromas of cherry and raspberry greet the nose. The dry palate provides ripe black cherries, herbs, and an earthy undercurrent, with medium plus acidity, medium plus body and medium plus length. Really lovely.
