Category Archives: Wine Industry

Esporão Day, in praise of Portugal and its wines

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While Americans observed their historic founding on July 4th, the Portuguese celebrated similarly last month. In particular, June 10 marked the occasion of Portugal Day, a celebration of Portugal’s history and culture, first championed by the country’s poet Luís de Camões. Camões, who died on June 10, 1580, was highly regarded for his epic poem praising and recording the accomplishments of the Portuguese Empire, forever linking him to this holiday.

Although Portugal Day is generally only acknowledged at home (in Portugal), this year, two wonderful wine events provided a great way to hail Portugal’s vinous culture: Esporão Day and a luncheon featuring wines from Vinho Verde’s Monção and Melgaço subregion. And, after tasting through glass after glass, it is evident that Portugal has reason to rejoice these days!

The fictitious, yet no less delicious, “Esporão Day,” was hosted in New York by Master Sommelier, Alex LaPratt, and included a guided tasting of six whites and six reds, expertly paired with two savory courses prepared by Hearth Restaurant in the East Village. The whites were accompanied by head-on prawns with spring vegetable ragu, butter and white wine, while the reds were served alongside beef and ricotta meatballs with “cacio e pepe” polenta.

At the center of the event was Portuguese wine brand Esporão. Established in 1973 with the aim of producing fine wine in the Alentejo region, its first foray into the industry was with the acquisition of the Herdade do Esporão estate. With 750 years of history, this storied land is home to three historical monuments – tower, arch and a chapel – as well as cork oak forests and 1710 acres of vineyards, olive groves and fruit orchards. The vineyards are planted to 40 different grape varieties and there are four different types of olives grown. The cellars were built in 1987, with separate facilities for red and white production.

After achieving success in the Alentejo, Esporão set its sights on the Douro, purchasing the Quinta dos Murcas estate in 2008. Another historic property, Quinta dos Murcas has been growing grapes since 1714, with 383 acres spread over 8 diverse terroirs. In 1947, the estate was the first to be planted vertically, with high density to stabilitze the soil against erosion on the steep (42 degree) incline.

Both estates emphasize sustainability practices and a dedication to organic farming. In this regard, Esporão hopes to be fully organically certified by 2021.

Today, the company is presently comprised of the two wine labels, olive oil production and, since 2018, the addition of a brewery, Sovina, which was the first craft beer in Portugal when founded in 2008.

Esporao’s chief winemaker, David Baverstock, is originally from Adelaide, Australia and has been with the company since 1992. He was joined in his efforts in 2016 by colleague Sandra Alves who oversees the red wines. Meanwhile, in the Douro, wine production is directed by Jose Luis Moreira da Silva.

TASTING NOTES
WHITES
*Assobio Branco 2018 – Named for the word whistle due to the sound that the wind makes as it travels through this 2300-foot-elevation vineyard, the wine offers up aromas of floral and peach. The palate is dry, with concentrated fruit flavors, medium acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Monte Velho Branco 2018 – Produced with 50% estate and 50% purchased fruit, this wine features citrus, grapefruit and pith notes, and, while dry, there is a hint of ripeness on the attack; medium+ acidity, long length.

Esporão Verdelho Branco 2017 – With Verdelho being the 6th most planted grape in Alentejo, this grape has become much more well known. This wine displays smoke, richness and nuttiness on the full-bodied palate with medium acidity and long length.

*Esporão Colheita Branco 2018 – A beautiful wine with lovely freshness, salinity, medium+ body, flavors of pear and spice, culminating in long length.

Esporão Reserva Branco 2017 – This barrel-fermented, white blend shows spice, oak, bruised apple and nuts, along with its full body and long length.

*Esporão Private Selection Branco 2016 – Bringing together 95% Semillon and 5% field blend, sourced from a clay soil vineyard, this wine has a gorgeous nose, showing some slight development with hints of smoke, lees and oak. Full-bodied with long length, the oak lingers in finish of this very textural wine.

REDS
*Assobio Tinto 2011 – This medium-bodied red offers up aromas of berries and smoke. It is fresh with lively acidity on the palate and can take a chill, making it an excellent choice for warmer weather.

*Esporão Colheita Tinto 2017 – With a dark and brooding nose, this wine delivers more red fruit on the palate, with slight oak, medium- tannins, bright acidity and long length.

Quinta dos Murcas Minas Tinto 2017 – Intense aromas of bramble fruit, dried herbs, and a hint of oak greet the nose, with these flavors persisting on the palate and culminating in long length.

Quinta dos Murcas Reserva  Tinto 2012 – This wine spends one year in barrel and four years in bottle before its release. It displays notes of oak, smoke, black fruit, and meatiness. The palate is intense and concentrated with black fruit, granite/ mineral, firm tannins, full body and long length.

Esporão Reserva Tinto 2011 – This powerful, yet restrained, wine was first produced in 1985 and sports attractive artwork on the label each year. The nose and palate feature red and black fruit, well integrated oak, firm tannins, full body and long length.

*Esporão Private Selection Tinto 2011 – A pronounced nose of black and blue fruit, gives way to vanilla, oak, iron and meatiness on the dry, full-bodied palate along with very firm tannins and long length.

*Denotes my favorite wines of the tasting.

Getting schooled on L’Ecole 41’s top terroirs and the Walla Walla Valley

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Ensconced in an old schoolhouse from which it takes its name, L’Ecole 41 was Walla Walla’s third winery and is at the epicenter of Washington wine. The family-owned winery was established in 1983 by Jean and Baker Ferguson, two Walla Walla natives who started growing grapes and making wine as a retirement project. Five years later, their daughter, Megan, and son-in-law, Marty Club, came back to the valley to take over what had become a fledgling business. Today, the pioneering winery has become widely recognized for producing beautiful wines.

L’Ecole 41’s makes wines from the larger Columbia Valley, but its higher end wines, crafted from top vineyards in the triangular-shaped Walla Walla Valley, truly speak to the terroir of this region. Situated in the southeastern corner of Washington State, Walla Walla provides a high desert climate, with rainfall limited to the winter months. Thanks to the hot, dry conditions, red wines account for 95% of the local production. Yet, in spite of the daily heat, the elevation and large diurnal shift result in a bright, natural acidity that has become a hallmark of all Washington wines. And, the sandy soils mean that the vines don’t need to be grafted onto American rootstocks.

I first became aware of the wines of L’Ecole 41 when I tasted their Semillon at the Society of Wine Educators’ conference back in 2005. But, given the time that had passed and my lack of knowledge of their highly regarded reds, I was intrigued when I received an invitation to taste through several terroir-focused flights.

With 36 years of winemaking experience, L’Ecole 41 now takes a uniform approach to each vintage. Accordingly, they follow the same vineyard and winemaking practices from year to year, which permits the terroir to show through even more than if they were to adapt to each growing season.

Our first flight focused on the Seven Hills Vineyard, one of L’Ecole 41’s estate vineyards situated in the southern perimeter of the valley. The 128-acre vineyard is comprised of wind blown loess (talc) soils, with vines grown on the North-facing slope due to the high heat. Jointly owned with several other wineries, it is planted to Bordeaux varieties and Syrah. This initial introduction featured Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, all from the cool, 2008 vintage.

We next turned our attention to Perigee, a Cab-driven, Bordeaux blend, also sourced from the Seven Hills Vineyard. We tasted through three different vintages varying from the cool 2006 and the even cooler 2011 to the warm 2016. Despite vintage variation, all of these wines displayed a meatiness, along with dried herbs and robust concentration. Not surprisingly, 2006 showed some development with more tertiary aromas and flavors while the 2011 was the most tart and the 2016 offered up riper fruit notes.

The third flight featured Apogee, a single vineyard, Bordeax-blend wine, produced from grapes from the Pepper Bridge Vineyard. L’Ecole 41 was the first winery to make wine from this vineyard, which is on the floor of the valley, on the alluvial flood silts from the previous ice age. Since the 2011 vintage was too cool to produce this wine, we tasted the 2006, 2010 and 2016 vintages.

Last, but not least, we tasted through wines from the Estate-based Ferguson Vineyard. Found at the top of the crest, at 1400 feet in elevation, Ferguson is home to one of the most volcanic soils in Washington. The vineyard’s 18 inches of wind-blown loess sit on top of a two-mile- deep layer of fractured basalt, remaining from ancient lava flows. With its super windy and super sunny conditions, the 42-acre vineyard was planted in 2008-09 to Bordeaux varieties. In addition to producing Ferguson, the vineyard is also occasionally used to make a pure varietal wine.

We tasted Ferguson 2011 (its first vintage) as well as the Ferguson 2016, as well as a very powerful Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 from this vineyard. The latter was very structured, with firm tannins, dark, black fruit and bright acidity, while the more youthful Ferguson was even fresher, with more red notes; neither was overly dense or extracted, nor was the limited production (300 cases) Cabernet Sauvignon.

At price points ranging from $37 for the Estate Merlot wines to $65 for the Estate Ferguson, these are definitely premium wines. However, they over-deliver in terms of their quality and provide excellent value for such age-worthy, well-made wines that will delight your palate.

Hess’s Lions Head Luxury Collection, taming lions and tannins

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A few weeks ago, I was about to run out the door to a wine event when I noticed a torn wrapper on the floor. Upon further investigation, I realized that our dog had gotten hold of an unopened chocolate bar and had proceeded to enjoy the taboo treat. Since chocolate is poisonous to canines, I immediately rushed her to the vet who took care of her right away. Thankfully, she has since made a full recovery.

Needless to say, it was a stressful day and that night I very much wanted a glass of wine – a good glass of wine – because life is too short. And, somehow between managing clients and caring for the dog, I felt a bit like I was herding cats.

Or, perhaps, as I reached for the bottle of wine… a lion tamer? I had previously tasted the Hess Collection wines at a luncheon last year and had been quite impressed. Thus, when the opportunity to taste two new releases came up, I pounced (OK, I’m done with the feline puns, I promise).

In any case, the lion has long been associated with the Hess family whose crest proudly features a byzantine-style lion and the animal has always adorned the family’s alcoholic pursuits. It previously graced the labels of the family’s beer business and was then adopted for the winery. More recently, it has been adapted and designed for the label of the “Lion Tamer,” which launched last year and more strongly recalls the history of the original Hess crest.

Not surprisingly, the Hess family motto is “Live Each Day with the Heart and Courage of The Lion.” The lion’s Latin name, Panthera Leo, gives rise to the winery’s newest addition to the Lions Head Luxury Collection. This collection represents the most recent development at Hess, currently under the direction of Donald Hess’ son-in-law Tim Persson, and wife, Sabrina.

Hess Collection Panthera Chardonnay 2016. Russian River Valley, USA, $45.00
This launch release is produced from 100% Chardonnay and was aged in 35% new French oak for 15 months. Slight buttery notes, a hint of oak and vanilla and apple greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is dry, concentrated, rich and ripe, with apple, pear, nuts and butter/creamy flavors. It is medium+-bodied, with medium acidity, good balanced, elegance and long length.

Hess Collection “Lion Tamer” Red Blend 2016, Napa Valley, USA, $45.00
A changing blend, the latest release brings together 40% Malbec, 27%  Zinfandel, 21% Petite Sirah, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Mourvèdre, 1% Petite Verdot, 1% Merlot, which has been aged in 40% new French oak for 22 months. Aromas of plum, blackberries, blueberries and vanilla, give way to a full-bodied, dry, rich and ripe palate, with concentrated fruit of mulberry, bright, juicy acidity, ripe tannins and long length.

Tio Pepe proves that its Sherry is up to the challenge

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I have previously extolled the virtues of Sherry, but it bears repeating: Sherry is super food-friendly, delicious and produced in a wide range of styles suitable for nearly anytime and any occasion. Sherry is also super versatile, as was demonstrated earlier this month at the Tio Pepe Challenge.

The 2019 edition of the Challenge marked the sixth year of this international competition, which brings bartenders and mixologists head to head with the goal of crafting the perfect Sherry cocktail. Held in mid-April, the six national finalists converged in New York city at Osamil to compete.

Each person was required to complete a blind tasting, demonstrate their Sherry pouring technique wielding a venencia and last but not least, participate in a cocktail showdown. The competing cocktails featured different Tio Pepe products and ranged from sweet to super savory (toasted sesame seeds, anyone?).

Judged by Master Blender Antonio Flores, International Brand Ambassador Álvaro Plata, and Courtney Schiessl of The Tasting Panel, the U.S. Final saw Javier Ortega Diaz of Vegas’ The Libertine Social beat out Joshua Fossitt, Carlie Steiner, Tiana Dillard, Alexander Lazzari, and Patrick McDonald. As the winner, Diaz will travel to participate in the International Final on May 15 in Jerez, Spain.

Guests at the event could taste the cocktails and also had the opportunity to taste other Tio Pepe sherries, while enjoying a selection of oysters, tapas and other light bites. Overall, the Challenge proved that Sherry can hold its own in the bar setting as well as it does at the tapas bar or table.

Here is the recipe to the winning cocktail:
Sophia by Javier Ortega Diaz, The Libertine Social, Las Vegas. WINNER

2 oz. Tio Pepe Fino Sherry

¾ oz. blood orange liqueur

½ oz. freshly squeezed Lime Juice

½ oz. homemade kumquat, rosemary, thyme syrup

1 oz. homemade sparkling hibiscus water

Garnish with slice kumquats, rosemary, thyme, and edible flowers.

Yarden and Purim: A Day of Lots with Lots to Celebrate

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Life is often about fate. Whether you believe fate is predestined or that you make your own is another story, but it all comes down to series of different choices and their resulting consequences. This is the underpinning of the Story of Esther, which features prominently in the celebration of Purim. The Purim holiday takes its name from the Hebrew word for lots, since the fate of the Jewish people had been sealed by the wicked Haman who had cast lots as to which date their extermination would take place. Fortunately, his plot was foiled by the bravery of Queen Esther, and instead of the Jews being sent to the gallows, it was Haman who met his demise on that fateful day.

With such an emphasis on fate, it was fitting to meet Victor Schoenfeld of Yarden Winery on Purim this month. Thankfully, Victor’s own fate has never been so dire (at least not that I am aware), but it was a series of individual choices that he made that have brought him to his current role and place in the wine industry.

In pursuit of his love of food and the land, Victor first enrolled at UC Santa Cruz to study agriculture and later transferred to UC Davis to pursue a degree in viticulture. It was after spending a year managing a vineyard that convinced him that he needed to expand his knowledge to understand both grape growing and wine making, prompting him to fulfill the degree requirements in the latter as well. His next fateful decision was to accept a three-year contract to work for Yarden Winery, uprooting himself from Glen Ellen, California to the Golan Heights in Israel.

Arriving in 1991, Victor never expected to stay on beyond his initial contract, but today, 28 years later, he still holds the position of Chief Winemaker and is at the helm of 6-person team, all in pursuit of crafting quality wine. Having joined Yarden early on in its creation (the winery was originally established in 1983), Victor has been blessed with an amazing opportunity to truly grow the winery from the ground up. Currently, Yarden is a leader in the Israeli wine industry, making significant investments in research and development that is shaping its winemaking and that of its neighboring wineries.

When Victor first appeared on the scene, little was known about the region, but in the intervening years, he and his colleagues have come to better understand the climate, soils and the best way to grow grapes in the Golan Heights. As a country, Israel is relatively small, but it has a very diverse climate, which significantly impacts grape growing. As Victor notes, the key is to look to elevation to achieve the necessary cooler climate to maintain good acidity and freshness. Accordingly, whites are grown at 3,000-4,000 feet above sea level and reds can be found at an elevation of 2,000 feet. The soils are a combination of volcanic soils and even older mountain soils.

Now that they appreciate the nuances of their terroir, the emphasis is firmly on achieving even ripeness, which they do by carefully planning where the various vines will be planted. This permits them to get a good expression of varietal character. Once the grapes are ready to be picked, their quality control is further aided through hand harvesting and the use of optical sorting, ensuring that only the very best grapes find their way into the wine.  

Other areas of exploration undertaken by the winery have focused on ensuring quality rootstocks and vines. In this regard, Yarden has received ENTAV licensing for their own propagation area, growing vines and wood, with the goal of eradicating the country’s problem with leaf roll virus.

Additionally, they received certification from Lodi Rules Sustainable Winegrowing Program for their practices in the vineyard, the first winery outside of California to receive this recognition and a testament to Yarden’s commitment to the environment. This considerable accomplishment is bolstered by the winery’s use of solar power, recycling programs and development of an organic vineyard.

Overall, the various projects have permitted Victor and his team to use high tech tools to measure and understand how to grow great grapes and make excellent wine, such as their creation of a new way to measure vineyard strength. Consequently, they can react to any issues and make corrections as needed. As they continue to discover more about their land and how to best care for it, Victor notes that they are in the middle of a journey and adds that he is excited about what they are doing and learning.

Looking ahead, it is clear that the winery will continue to produce high quality wines that are both age-worthy and worthy of attention. What Victor’s fate will continue to bring, only time will tell, but for now, he continues to lead his team to good fortune and great wine. And, that, is definitely worth celebrating!

TASTING NOTES
Yarden Katzrin Blanc de Blancs late disgorged 2007, $105.99
This Traditional Method sparkling wine spent 10 years on the lees. Fresh with lively acidity, nice perlage, yeasty, toasty and citrus aromas and flavors, with good length.

Yarden Gewurztraminer 2017, $22.99
A pronounced nose of lychee, tropical fruit, spice and jasmine. Dry on the palate, with just a hint of ripeness, good acidity, slight oily texture, long length.

Yarden Chardonnay Odem Organic Vineyard 2016, $22.99
As Victor notes, “Oak is never the point…” of a wine, “It is a tool.” This wine spent 7 months aged in French oak barrels, with the wood well integrated into the wine. Dry, good acidity, good structure, not too heavy, creamy and round on the palate.

Yarden Katzrin Chardonnay 2017, $38.99
This Chardonnay is a blend of several different vineyards, taken from the most concentrated lots. Fresher than the Odem, but with more overt oak due to the lengthier aging (9 months). Still very youthful and will evolve in the bottle with time. Full bodied, apple, spice, angular, long length.

Yarden Merlot 2014, $30.99
Notes of plum, wood, coffee; dry, with ripe fruit, spice and medium tannins, giving way to long length.

Yarden Merlot Odem Organic Vineyard 2014, $105.99
More herbal in character than the previous Merlot. Spice, wood, plum, ripe, firmer tannins with earthy concentration, culminating in long length.

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, $35.99
As Yarden’s most awarded wine, this iconic Israeli wine is a diplomat for the winery. Beautifully balanced, with black fruit, good acidity, full bodied, firm ripe tannins, can age 15-20 years.

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon Bar’on Vineyard 2014, $105.99
Aromas and flavors of black berry, slight spice, herbs, it is ripe and fresh, with long length.

Yarden Katzrin 2011, $212.99
A Bordeaux-style blend, this wine is named for the town in which the winery is located. This vintage is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Merlot; more recent vintages include small percentages of Malbec and Petit Verdot. It has been aged for 24 months in French oak barrels. Brooding, menthol, black fruit, showing slight development, intense and concentrated, ripe, yet elegant, herbal, luscious, ripe tannins, with long length.

Yarden T2 2011, $22.50
This fortified, dessert-style wine is a blend of the Portuguese varieties of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao, which took some time to get established in the vineyard. It is aged for 28 months in French oak barrels. It displays a Port-like nose, with concentrated spice, cocoa and red fruit aromas, medium sweet, but beautifully balanced with bright acidity and long length.

Terlato’s CRU Collection: A Circle of Burgundian Friends

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Like many people in the wine industry, John Terlato, Vice Chairman of Terlato Wines, is passionate about Burgundy. When Terlato Wines initially purchased Sanford Winery and its vineyards in Santa Barbara, California in 2002, John was strongly advised to look to Burgundy for information and inspiration as they embarked on this new Chardonnay and Pinot Noir venture.

He took the advice to heart and traveled to Burgundy in search of great wine. Of course, he was not disappointed, but, equally important, he discovered great people. He returned to the U.S. not only with new knowledge that he was able to impart at Sanford, but also with a circle of new friends.

Over time, these friendships have continued to grow and blossom and it is from this collection of great people that John has now assembled a collection of world-class Burgundy wines, which he is importing under Terlato Wines’ CRU Selections division. The portfolio includes an impressive array of Who’s Who in Burgundy, but John stresses that he wants to work with friends, not all Burgundy producers.

And, such friendships have also resulted in joint projects such as the wine he recently made with Chateau de la Tour at Sanford Winery, bringing together California Pinot Noir, with Burgundian expertise. He enjoyed the project very much and admits that the experience will influence the way he does things going forward, since it is difficult to ignore what you have learned.

Among other things that John has gleaned from his Burgundian friends is the concept that vines can be classified as either introverts or extroverts and, by understanding which vines are which, one can best manage the vines to produce their highest quality. Accordingly, extroverted vines need more attention, while introverted vines should be left alone. He has since adopted this philosophy to other vines, which compliments his focus on making wines of place instead of wines of taste.

John himself is an extrovert, which comes across in his warm, generous approach to life and to people. But, he doesn’t want to interact just for the sake of interacting; in his words, “the ideal dinner party is made up of more than the [three] Graces and less than the [nine] Muses,” giving him the opportunity to have meaningful conversations with a variety of people over the course of a delicious meal and a glass of wine.

Terlato recently hosted a tasting of a subset of the Cru Selections portfolio, including: Domaine Michel Niellon, Chateau de la Tour, Domaine Pierre Label and Domaine Ramonet. It was truly an impressive tasting and an absolute treat to taste some of these very limited wines. And a welcome reminder as to why people are so passionate about Burgundy!

NB: If you would like to get to know John Terlato even better, why not join him on a cruise this December?

TASTING NOTES

Domaine Michel Niellon
This fourth-generation family affair is located in Chassagne-Montrachet and produces the full range of wines from the basic Bourgogne appellation to Grand Crus, including Chevalier-Montrachet. The vineyards are managed using sustainable agriculture.

*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Champgains” 2016
Rich, lovely, apple, woody, full bodied, long length.

*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Clos de la Maltroie” 2016
Mineral, wet stone, fresh, mineral, apple, toothpick, very long length.

*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Vergers” 2006
Developing, rich, full body, mineral, caramel, waxy, peach, long length.

Chateau de la Tour
Established in 1889 and situated in Vougeot, Chateau de la Tour is presently the largest landowner of the Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru, with a holding of 15 acres. The vines are farmed organically and the wines are aged in custom barrels. The estate’s Clos-Vougeot wines are typically produced from vineyards that average 65 years old, while those under the Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes (old vines) label are made from vines of a minimum of 100 years old.

*Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2015
Intense and concentrated fruit, cherry, herbs, earth, very long length.

*Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2007
Floral, red fruit, earthy and herbal, long length.

Domaine Pierre Labet
This domaine dates back to the 15th century with its headquarters built on the battlements surrounding the city of Beaune. The Labet family itself also has a long history in the region, having been in Beaune for 500 years. The family’s holdings include 25 acres spread throughout different appellations, with all of the vineyards farmed organically since 1992.

*Beaune “Clos du Dessus des Marconnets” 2015
Lovely nose, spice, apple, full body, medium acidity, good length.

*Meursault “Les Tillets” 2015
Mineral, green apple, toothpick, nuts, rich and round, long length.

*Beaune “Clos du Dessus des Marconnets” 2015
Ripe, rich, fresh, herbal, cherry, wood, long length.

*Gevry-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2015
Ripe berry, cherry, herbal, earthy, fruit on palate, bright acidity, woody finish, long length.

Domaine Ramonet
The Ramonet family settled in Burgundy in the 19th century and it was Pierre Ramonet, grandfather to the current owner, Jean-Claude, who established the (now vaunted) domaine in 1935. While Domaine Ramonet produces both red and white wines, it is most known for its top Chadonnays. Today, Jean-Claud is joined in the business by his daughters Anne-France and Clarisse.

*Bougogne Aligote 2016
Beautifully fresh, round, soft ripe pear/peach, pith, slight tropical, long length.

*Puligny-Montrachet 2016
Slight nuttiness, apple, wood, nuts, rich and round, slight buttery note, long length.

*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Boudriotte” 2016
Woody and apple on the nose, fresh, elegant and rich on the palate with apple, woodiness lingers in finish, long length.

*Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Ruchottes” 2014
Green apple, hint of oak, fresh acidity, full body, VERY long length.

*Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet 2001
Caramel, apple custard, good acidity, full body, caramel, butter, very long length.
Wow!

The Wines of Rioja: Something for Everyone

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Among Spain’s most vaunted wines, Rioja wines offer up “something for everyone.” And, while that phrase comes straight from the “Rioja 101” brochure I received at a recent Rioja tasting, I believe it to be much more than marketing hype. The wines are produced as white, red, or rosé, covering the full (wine) color spectrum, as well as in a range of styles.

White wines primarily feature local grape varieties such as Viura, Garnacha Blanca and Verdejo, while rosés are generally made from Garnacha or Tempranillo. The red wines may be produced from one or more of the following varieties: Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo. Aside from the differing blends, the wines vary based on length of aging and use (or lack thereof) of wood vessels.

In particular, wines that spend long aging in wood — typically American oak — qualify for specific labeling terms based on the Rioja regulations. Specifically, non-oaked/unaged wines carry no additional terminology on the label. Those wines bearing the designation “Crianza” have been aged for at least three years with one in cask. Reserva wines spend three years aging with one in wood and then an additional six months in bottle. Grand Reserva wines, usually only produced in top vintages, spend a minimum of five years aging with two of those in oak and an additional two in bottle before release. As minimums, winemakers are permitted to exceed these regulations and often do. Whites and rosés follow similar, but shorter, aging regimens within each aging category.

What this means for you, as a consumer, is that you will find a variety of Rioja options depending upon your palate and other preferences. In general, the unoaked wines will be fresher, more fruit forward and potentially more simple, but equally delicious. Conversely, the longer aged wines typically offer oaky/woody notes, often accompanied by notes of vanilla and spice, along with more robust flavor characteristics with firmer tannins and less fruit, but still remain fresh.

More recently, several new zone classifications have been created and now don labels as well. Vino de Zona permits wines that are produced exclusively in one of the three zones (Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental) to designate this on the label. Similarly, wines from a particular village or town (Vino de Municipio) may bear that name if nearly all of the grapes come from that particular area. And finally, Vinedo Singular is a new term used for wines produced from single vineyard that is at least 35 years old and must meet other quality requirements.

At the tasting mentioned above, I had the opportunity to taste among whites, rosés and reds from a variety of different producers and, not surprisingly, found numerous wines to enjoy. In addition to their food friendly versatility, Riojas are also well priced, particularly among older wines and offer good value. So, the next time you are looking for great wine, look no further than Rioja. You’re sure to find something for everyone!

[For additional information on Rioja, please see my previous stories on CVNE, Bodegas Beronia and Vintae.]

Among my favorites of the tasting were:
CVNE Monopole Rioja Blanco 2017, Rioja, Spain, $15 – rich, full-bodied and complex with long length.

Muriel Fincas de la Villa Blanco 2017, Rioja, Spain, $15 – fresh, with citrus and pear notes.

Faustino VII Rioja Rosado 2018, Rioja, Spain, $11 – slight floral nose with notes of under-ripe strawberries.

Palacios Remondo La Vendimia Rioja 2016, Rioja, Spain, $16 – beautiful nose, with balanced, ripe fruit and long length.

Bodegas Taron Taron Reserva 2006, Rioja, Spain, $18 – well integrated tannins, herbal and floral notes, with rich concentrated fruit and a slight balsamic character.

Bodegas Olarra, Cerro Anon Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja, Spain, $17 – tart, berries, spice and wood, concentrated, long length.

Bodegas Campillo Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja, Spain, $35 – Produced by the daughter of Faustino, fresh with lots of herbaceous notes, long length.

Faustino Barrel Select Gran Reserva 2001, Rioja, Spain, $50 – beautifully complex nose, spice, fruit, herbs, stunning, long length.

Colome’s winemaker is living the impossible dream

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Born, raised and educated in Burgundy, Thibaut Delmotte launched his wine career doing three harvests each in Burgundy and Bordeaux before taking a year off to travel throughout South America. He booked an open ticket, headed to Buenos Aires and visited Argentina, Chile and Brazil, eventually finding himself somewhat settled in Salta teaching French at the local Alliance Française.

When a new acquaintance discovered his background as a winemaker she told him about a high elevation vineyard north of the city. He didn’t believe it was possible to grow vines at such an altitude but was intrigued enough to secure an appointment with the man behind the project: Donald Hess.

Thibaut and Donald arranged to meet at the property at 9:00 AM, which required Thibault to depart Salta at 5:00 AM. By 6:00 AM, the pavement gave way to gravel as he snaked his way up the mountain. By 9:00 AM, there was no sign of life and he was beginning to think that he had been punked. Soon he came to a small village and was assured that he was close to his destination. Another 40 minutes of driving brought him face to face with the tall, Swiss gentleman who promptly laughed at seeing the small, compact rental car in which Thibault had made the journey.

Still disbelieving, Thibaut permitted Donald to give him a tour of the mountainous property, which was barren desert – more suited to cacti than Cabernet. Then, he saw the eight hectares of pre-phylloxera vines and was duly impressed.

Hess spoke about his grand plans for multiple vineyards and a large capacity winery. Thibaut was excited about the opportunity, but readily admitted to his lack of experience to take on such a project. Undeterred, Donald continued with the tour and invited Thibaut to lunch that afternoon. But, before the meal, he was to take part in a blind tasting during which he was asked to taste and rank 10 wines in order of his preference. It was the ultimate job interview! When Thibaut’s least favorite wine was revealed to be the Colome Malbec Reserva he was certain he had blown his chance, but Donald appreciated his feedback as to why the French-born and bred winemaker didn’t find the overt/powerful wine to his liking. Hess offered him the job on the condition that he commit to the post for at least three years. That was fifteen years ago.

In the early years, the emphasis was on building the new winery, developing the vineyards and, equally important, investing in the local village to upgrade its infrastructure, increase its access to education and solve social ills such as alcoholism and teen pregnancy. It was also necessary to create own electricity

Despite its initial rusticity, the Colome property itself dates to 1831, when it was established by the Isasmendi-Dávalos family. It remained in the Dávalos family until 2001, when Hess was finally able to purchase the property. Hess himself was first acquainted with Colome and its potential while visiting his great aunt in Buenos Aires several years prior and had the opportunity to taste an old bottle of its wine.

In addition to the state-of-the-art winery, Colome’s estate is home to the James Turrell Museum. Turrell is a California-based, light and space artist, whose experiential installations defy explanation. To get a better sense of his art, please see: http://www.bodegacolome.com/museo/?lang=en  The winery attracts 8,000 visitors each year who usually spend half a day tasting wine and visiting the museum. A nine-room hotel is also available on the estate for those who wish to stay over.

More recently, the focus has been on two special projects: Autentico and Altura Maxima (maximum height). The Autentico project relies on doing things the “old way.” In this regard, the best blocks of 100 year+ vines are still trained using the pergola system, watered with flood (instead of drip) irrigation, treated without chemicals and generally approached with a low intervention philosophy. This approach continues in the winery, where the use of oak is eschewed in favor of showing the true (authentic) wine in the glass, uncovered by wood aromas and flavors.

At a height of 3,111 meters (10,200 feet) in altitude, Altura Maxima is the highest vineyard in the world (although a recently planted plot in Tibet threatens to take this title away). It was initially planted in 2007 to Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as Malbec. Given the elevation, the vines receive more ultraviolet light, forcing them to develop thicker skins on the grapes. This ultimately produces wines with more structure and concentration, while the 25 degree diurnal difference ensures that the wines retain high levels of acidity and elegance. All of this comes at a price; the very extreme conditions mean that wasps, donkeys and frost are all threats to the fruit. Thus, the vineyard only yields a small production of grapes (4 kilos per hectare compared to 7 kilos per hectare).

TASTING NOTES
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is IMG_20181118_191526_076-1024x1024.jpgColome Autentico 2017, Salta, Argentina, $on-premise only
This 100% Malbec is deep purple in color with intense aromas of wood, plum, black fruit. The dry palate displays very ripe blackberry and blueberry joined by floral and spice, with firm, ripe tannins, full body and medium+ length. It is released young, but can age five to seven years.

Colome Altura Maxima 2014, Salta, Argentina, $125.00
Also 100% Malbec, this wine spends 23 months in old oak and one year in bottle before release. It is a very floral Malbec with fine grained tannins.

All I Want for Christmas: Papapietro Perry Pinot

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Regardless of which winter holidays you do or don’t celebrate, who doesn’t want to be on the receiving end of presents? So, with that in mind, I am starting a list just in case anyone wants to know what to get me. First up, Pinot Noir from Papapietro Perry!

I first became acquainted with Papapietro Perry Winery back in 2008 when I compiled a lengthy list of Sonoma County producers to potentially visit for our upcoming trip. We would be in Sonoma for an extended weekend (Thursday through Tuesday), first to attend the very first Wine Bloggers’ Conference and then to enjoy a few days tasting and touring throughout the county.

We had arranged to meet our San Francisco-based friends, Peter and Nicole, for the day and set off in pursuit of Pinot. With our focus on Healdsburg, that day included visits to Ridge, Seghesio and Papapietro Perry. Well-known and respected for their Pinot and Zinfandel, Papapietro Perry had ended up on the list thanks to the favorable reviews they garnered in Wine Spectator magazine (and continue to receive in that and in other publications).

The winemakers behind the label are Bruce Perry and Ben Papapietro. With their mutual love of food and wine, the two friends began making wine together in a shared pursuit of Pinot Noir. Starting in Ben’s San Francisco garage back in 1980s, their homemade attempts turned out to be quite good, eventually permitting them to quit their “day jobs” to pursue wine full-time. And, keeping it all in the family, they are joined by their wives, Renae Perry (who is responsible for winery operations) and Yolanda Papapietro (who handles distribution).

During our 2008 visit, I was very impressed with the wines, tasting two Pinots (Charles Vineyard ~ Anderson Valley and Leras Family Vineyards ~ Russian River Valley) and two Zins (both from the Russian River Valley). So, it was a pleasure to reacquaint myself with Papapietro Perry wine again more recently. Trust me, if someone gifts you their wines, you will not be unhappy!

TASTING NOTE
Papapietro Perry Pinot Noir Nunes Vineyard 2016 Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $60.00
This 100% Pinot Noir wine spent 11 months in French oak, 50% of which was new and 50% of which was 1 and 2 years old. Pale garnet with a paler rim, typical of Pinot Noir, this wine offered up spice, earth and cherry aromas. It was dry, with bright acidity, fresh cherries and raspberries, spice, a slight woody note, and an undercurrent of earthiness on the medium-bodied palate, culminating in very long length. A truly beautiful wine.

 

Keeping up with Italian Wines

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With its wealth of wines and wine regions, there is a lot to know about Italian wine! Plus, Italy seems to be in a constant state of flux with regard to rules and regulations as it continually seeks to improve the quality of its production. In October, I attended the Simply Italian Great Wines U.S. Tour 2018, organized by IEEM USA, to get the scoop on a new DOC as well as update my knowledge on Lambrusco. Similarly, some recent press releases have also kept me up-to-date on changes in Piedmont.

 

65 Shades of Grey
At the Simply Italian event, attendees had the opportunity to taste through 65 shades of grey (or more correctly in Italian, grigio). All of the wines were produced from the Pinot Grigio grape variety and were part of the new DOC delle Venezie.  This new denomination was established in 2017, implementing new rules such as lower yields, and elevating Pinot Grigio from IGP status.

One of the largest production areas in all of Europe, the DOC comprises 30,000 hectares spread over three regions. The DOC delle Venezie bills itself as “Italian style Pinot Grigio,” but there is still plenty of room for diversity with wines at the event ranging from still to sparking and one with a hint of color from brief skin contact. Although I tasted through quite a few of the wines on offer, I wisely did not attempt to try all 65. Of the ones I tasted, my favorites included those from Tomassi, Perlage, SalvaTerra and Tre.

The (Un)usual Suspects
Whereas Pinot Grigio is quite well-known in the U.S., Lambrusco is less ubiquitous, but definitely worth knowing about. In a session titled, “Lambrusco D.O.C. & Sangiovese D.O.C.: The Cultural Heritage of the Territory,” Professor Giammario Villa explained that the Emilia Romagna region’s main cultural focus is food, as evidenced by talk about dinner as early as breakfast. This emphasis is likely a result of the Via Emilia Road built by the Roman consults in 187 BCE, which created the hubs of Reggio, Parma, Bologna, all of which are synonymous with food. Vinously, the region has numerous geological differences that have influenced the local wine legislation. The Professor also noted that the region is marked by a preponderance of cooperatives (responsible for 75% of the wines produced), which has kept wine prices relatively inexpensive.

With regard to Lambrusco itself, there are 6 DOCs: Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa and Reggiano within Reggio Emilia and four more in Modena. Wine produced in the more flexible designation of Lambrusco di Modena has been made as early as the middle of the 10th century and currently permits higher yields than the more specific Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce and Lambrusco di Sorbara.

While there are stylistic differences among the various DOCs, in general, Lambrusco is produced via the Charmat Method and the resulting wines typically display high acidity, at least some effervescence, low alcohol and fruity and floral aromas. However, they are more varied with regard to tannins and body/structure.

Coming from the northern part of the region, the wines of Lambrusco di Sorbara are usually quite light in color, while those from Reggiano are deep in color with a lively foam. Located in the central part of the region, with vines grown at a higher altitude, the wines of Lambrusco Grasparosa di Castelvetro hail from the clay soils and hilly slopes and offer up earthy, spicy notes along with more tannin and structure.

Tasting through a selection of these wines, I was reminded just how much I enjoy Lambrusco and wondered why I don’t remember to drink them more often. My tasting notes are included below.

Updates in Piedmont
Within Piedmont, perhaps best-known for Barbaresco and Barolo, attention has been turned to its Barbera variety. Specifically, the Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini del Monferrato has partnered with the Università di Torino – Disafa to conduct a scientific study to create a sensory map of the Barbera d’Asti DOCG appellation. Called Barbera d’Asti 2.0, the focus of this study is to better understand the influence of geological and climatic conditions and how these growing conditions relate to the wine profiles of the wines produced in each area. The study took a year to complete and the results (aka the map) have just been published.

Shining light on another grape variety, the same Consorzio has also received approval to modify the specifications of the Monferrato DOC, which has now been expanded to include two additional DOCs: Monferrato Nebbiolo and Monferrato Nebbiolo Superiore. The new denomination will take effect with the 2019 harvest, with the first wines released into the market in 2020, after the requisite aging periods (12 and 18 months, respectively). The main impetus for this change was to permit producers to include the grape variety on the label. Given that the Monferrato designation by itself has limited consumer recognition, this should give the participating wineries a better opportunity to market their wines.

TASTING NOTES
Cleto Chiarli ‘Vecchia Modena’ Lambrusco NV
Aromas of strawberry greeted the nose. On the palate it was very tart and fresh with underripe strawberry flavors and and long length.

For.Mo.Sa Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOP NV
With deeper, darker red fruits, bright acidity, this was relatively full bodied with good length.

Ca’ Montanari ‘Opera 02’ Lambrusco di Modena DOP NV
Displaying a cocoa note as well as red fruit on nose, this wine was fuller in body, offering up darker fruits and good acidity.

Lombardini ‘Il Signore Campanone’ Lambrusco Reggiano DOP NV
A shier nose with less fruity aromas, this wine was earthy with slight cherry notes on the palate.