Category Archives: Tasting Notes

Maxville, the final (vinous) frontier for George Bursick

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One of the beautiful things about wine is the way it brings people together. Sitting around with a glass or two (or more …) provides the opportunity to talk about the wine in question, but it just as easily opens the door for conversations about nearly anything. Such was the case when I met George Bursick, the new Executive Winemaker for Maxville Winery. His warmth is infectious, making you feel at ease and at home in his company and we shared lots of stories ranging from retirement destinations, home renovation projects, cheesecake recipes and dogs.

But, of course, we did also talk about wine. Graduating from what he refers to as the “famous UC Davis class of ’76,” George left the program with a master’s degree in Enology and quickly found work as winemaker for McDowell Valley Vineyards in Mendocino County. He then distinguished himself in the Sonoma Valley, with posts at Ferarri-Carano (where he was instrumental in building its varietal portfolio) and then at J Vineyards and Winery (expanding his repertoire to cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), repeatedly earning top marks for his wines.

He left J Vineyards in 2011 to focus full-time on his wine consulting business, but, more recently, has been lured to that “other” valley by an opportunity, which he describes as his last vinous frontier – crafting Napa Valley Cabs. When asked why, he promptly replied, “Why not?” But, clarified his answer, noting that the chance to work with such great fruit in such an historic setting, coupled with the high end set up at Maxville, was just too exciting to pass up.

The 1,000-acre historic estate was once the site of a children’s summer camp and then home to Catacula Lake Winery, but was derelict for many years before it was purchased three years ago by Qinghai Huzhu Barley Wine Co., Ltd. in Haidong in China. Seeing the property’s great potential, the Chinese company spared no expense in outfitting the winery with top of the line equipment. It was this investment that was a big part of the appeal for George.

George is also enthusiastic about Maxville’s location in the Chiles Valley. A sub-appellation of the Napa Valley, Chiles Valley AVA was established in 1999, but its first vineyards were planted as early as the mid-1800s, and the Maxville site is part of the original land grant given to Joseph Chiles in 1844. Now home to some of the oldest vines in Napa County, the distinctive valley offers up high elevations that help to temper the climate and provide good diurnal variation, along with a long growing season that permits the vines to thrive and the grapes to reach full maturity.

With 100 acres of vines currently planted, and another 40 acres planned, Maxville relies solely on estate-grown fruit to produce its wines. Even at its current size, George acknowledges that not all of the fruit is worthy of the winery’s top wines and thus, they are launching a secondary label, Big Max, which will permit them to produce Napa Valley wines under $30.00. These wines are set to hit the market early in 2019.

And, as George begins to more fully understand the vineyards under his purview, he is exploring the use of different clones and seeing how these vines marry with the estate’s terroir. He is similarly energized about having these various clones as part of the ingredients from which to craft his wines in the state-of-the-art winery.

When asked about this greater reliance on winemaking technology since his days at Davis, George reflected that the bar has been considerably raised. He explained that, back then, it was enough to make reasonably good wine, but today’s consumer expects the highest quality. He feels that the technological tools help make that possible, but he also adds that, with this high-tech equipment, they have given him enough rope… If he can’t produce top wines with all of these bells and whistles at his disposal, he knows that his time at Maxville will be short.

Despite the possible pressure, George is thrilled about this new challenge and eager to put his personal stamp on the wines. In particular, he advised that his predecessor produced wines more Bordelais in style and noted that, having written his graduate thesis on Factors affecting Wine Body, he brings a fatness or heft to his wines, a style he will apply to the Maxville wines going forward.

When not immersed in winemaking, George likes to take the time to appreciate the non-vinous aspects of the Maxville estate, extolling its virtues as a peaceful, Buddhist-like sanctuary, complete with a large lake. The property also boasts a cook’s kitchen and guest entertainment such as ATVs and archery, but of course, these pursuits must be enjoyed before tasting the wines.

TASTING NOTES
In between our lively conversation over lunch, we tasted through the current selection of Maxville’s wines:

Maxville Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $33.99
Produced from the Musque clone, this wine was fresh and bright with slight floral and citrus aromas, with a dry palate displaying lovely, intense citrus and long length.

Maxville Cabernet Franc 2014, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $66.99
This wine is a blend of 90% Cabernet Franc, with the remainder given over to Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. As vintages permit, George expects to increase the percentage of Cab Franc going forward and recently planted three different clones of the variety. With lush black fruit aromas, the wine offered up notes of boysenberry, black fruit, with just a hint of Cab Franc’s signature herbaceous character, balanced with nice acidity and a full body.

Maxville Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $66.99
Compared to the Cabernet Franc, the Cabernet Sauvignon was a more structured wine, with darker black fruit aromas and flavors, firm tannins. It also showed good acidity and long length.

Maxville Petite Sirah 2014, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $66.99
Maxville only produces a small quantity of this wine, given its tannic nature and need for lengthy aging to tame the tannins. It offered up lots of red fruit and was quite spicy on the nose and palate.

Celebrating Carpene-Malvolti because life is better with bubbles

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I have always held the personal belief that everything is better that sparkles – water, wine, personalities and diamonds! And, lately, the world seems to agree with me. While consumption of red and white still wine remains flat (pun intended), the consumption of sparkling wine has risen dramatically since 2009 and is expected to grow annually by nearly 6% from 2018-2021, indicating significant increased interest in bubbles.*

But it is important to remember that just because it sparkles, it isn’t necessarily Champagne! Only those wines that come from the specific Champagne region in France deserve that title. And, although  Champagne has certainly become a benchmark for quality sparkling wine, there are lots of other wonderful options out there, many of which come from their own distinct place,  such as Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France), Cava (Catalonia, Spain) and Prosecco (Veneto and Friuli, Italy). Yes, it is a lot to remember, but there is a method to this “madness.” In fact, it is this combination of terroir (soil, climate, cultivation…) and the production process, which is precisely responsible for the resulting wines.

To add another layer of confusion, there are actually two types of Prosecco: Prosecco DOC and Prosecco Superiore DOCG. While both Prosecco designations are made from the Glera grape, using the Charmat Method (which retains the bouquet of this aromatic variety), the two demarcated areas differ. I won’t belabor these points here because I’ve written about them already (Prosecco, Prosecco Superiore and Slowing Down in Asolo); however, it is important to recognize where Prosecco got its start. And, it is fitting to do so as we celebrate the 150th anniversary of Carpène-Malvolti winery and recognize its  important contribution to this wine.

In 1868, viticulturist and winemaker, Antonio Carpenè, crafted the first sparkling wine from what was then called the Prosecco grape, having spent time and effort in perfecting the Charmat method to beautiful effect with the local variety.

Formally trained as a chemist, Antonio was a committed scientist, studying with Louis Pasteur in Montpellier as well as other top scientists throughout Europe in order to expand his knowledge. I suppose given this dedication, one shouldn’t be surprised that Antonio named his sixth-born child, Etile, from the Italian word for ethyl alcohol (and perhaps sealing his fate for a career in the family business). Equally unsurprising, his wife, Teresa, nixed the name Enocianina (meaning oenocyanin,a tannin product from grape skins) for his first daughter, who thankfully was called Maria, instead.

With his background in higher education – Antonio served as a professor of natural sciences at Bosisio College of Monza and at the Royal Agricultural School of Conegliano – he saw the need to apply science and rigorous study to viticulture and enology, and established the first school of its kind in Italy, in 1876.

As the years progressed, Carpenè-Malvolti continued to produce its sparkling wine, first labeling it as Champagne Italiano (a term no longer permitted), until 1924, when Etile changed the name to Prosecco, decades before the creation of the actual DOC. This was also the same year that the Enological School was inaugurated at its current site.

Today, the winery remains within the Carpenè family since its founding, alternating given names from Antonio to Etile, with each subsequent generation. Its current management includes members of the 4th and 5th generation, while a member of the 6th generation (presently only two years old) is potentially poised to take over in the future 😊.

Aside from the family, Domenico Scimone holds the post of General Manager and has been with the company for six years. Despite this relatively short tenure in the company’s history, he is extremely effusive about it and its past. Carpenè’s U.S. importer, Julius Angelini, has actually been involved with the winery for much  longer, having been the first to bring the wine to America in the 1990s.

To commemorate this important milestone, Carpenè is releasing a small production (10,000 bottles) wine, which mimics the original wine in its blend. While Carpenè’s modern wines are all 100% Glera (rules permit up to 15% other grapes), this small batch, called “1924,” will bring together 90% Glera with 10% of other permitted varieties.

Overall, Carpenè-Malvolti has a varied portfolio of both sparkling wines and spirits. Among the sparklers, they produce Prosecco Superiore in Brut, Dry and Extra Dry styles as well as a Cartizze wine (the cru of Prosecco Superiore) and PVXINVM Vino Pucinum, taken from the name given to the local wine by Pliny the Elder during Roman times. In addition, they also make Prosecco DOC, a Traditional Method sparkler and a Rose Spumante (see tasting note below).

*For detailed information and statistics on the rise of sparkling wine production and consumption, please see: OIV State of the Viticulture World Market, Statista Sparkling Wine and Sparkling Wines: global trends and challenges.

TASTING NOTES
I had the opportunity to taste two of its wines at a recent lunch event.

Carpenè-Malvolti 1868 Extra Dry Prosecco di Conegliano NV, Veneto, Italy, $16.00
A really lovely sparkler with a nice, gentle mousse, good fruit on the nose and palate with notes of white flowers, pear and a hint of marzipan, culminating in long length.

Carpenè-Malvolti Rosé Spumante Brut, NV, Veneto, Italy, $17.00
Produced from a blend of local grape, Raboso, from Treviso and Pinot Noir from Trentino, this wine is beautifully dry, with crisp acidity, just a hint of fruit and was perfect  with lunch.

Let’s Hear It for the Bees: Sokol Blosser supports sustainability

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I’ve always been a fan of Sokol Blosser Winery and now there is even more to love about this iconic Oregon wine producer: they are doubling-down on their commitment to the earth!

The winery has been a leader in the sustainability movement since the 1970s, but more recently, they have turned their attention to closures. This is not specifically a rehash of the cork vs. screwcap debate, but rather a recognition that cork is not biodegradeable. Yes, it is a renewable resource, but it is precisely because it doesn’t degrade that makes it such a useful option with which to seal wine and other products.

Consequently, in an effort to reduce its environmental impact, Sokol Blosser was the first winery in the world to place an order for DIAM’s newest product Origine by DIAM. The winery is trialing this new closure on a portion (15%) of its 2015 Dundee Hills Estate Pinot Noir, which was released in May (2018). Like DIAM’s other products, Origine is a technical cork, but utilizes a beeswax emulsion and 100% vegetable polyols. This makes it recyclable and, equally important, able to permit the wine to age, without fear of cork taint.

Given the product’s use of beeswax, DIAM has joined in the effort to bolster the honey bee population by investing in beehives in various French wine regions. Sokol Blosser is also showing its support for bees by donating $1 for every bottle sold under the new Origine cork to the Eugene, OR-based Save the Bee organization through April 2019. This funding will help the Oregon State University and Washington State University honeybee labs, which conduct vital research into the declining honey bee population and also teach beekeeping skills to the community.

But, of course, what’s in the bottle is still important. And, make no mistake, Sokol Blosser continues to live up to its reputation as a producer of high quality Pinot Noir!

Sokol Blosser Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 2015, Dundee Hills (OR), USA, $40.00
A beautiful, complex nose with aromas of earth, barnyard and dried cherries gives way to a dry palate with rich, ripe cherry fruit flavors, along with bright acidity, low tannins, medium body and very long length.

 

NB: If you are looking to be more sustainable yourself, here are some ideas of what to do with your own collections of corks: DIY Projects and Cork Recycling Options.

CVNE: The Wine Company from the North of Spain

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CVNE is not just any winery from northern Spain. No, really, it is the winery from northern Spain. The name CVNE, pronounced Q-nay, is actually an acronym: Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana, which literally translates as “Wine Company from the North of Spain.”

Admittedly it might not have been the most original moniker when the company was founded in 1879, but the nondescript name actually suits the winery just fine. As Victor Urrutia Ybarra, its current CEO, asserts, a great winery is much more than a family name or dynasty or as the work of a specific winemaker. Rather, its products continually deliver on quality unrelated to the particular people behind the bottle. That being said, CVNE’s winemakers hang around a long time; there have only been five in its 100-plus year history.

And, while Victor is a part of CVNE’s heritage (he is a member of the fifth generation of the founding family), he took the job practically kicking and screaming all the way. Well, not really, but he was certainly a reluctant bride to the CVNE bridegroom, agreeing first to a single-year contract to see if it would work out. This was followed by a second, and then a third, single-year contract, by which time, he realized that he enjoyed the role after all. And, he has stepped into the position as if born to it (which perhaps he was).

Despite his initial reluctance, his arrival on the CVNE scene was well-timed and well-played. Bringing his expertise and training as a management consultant (he worked in Brazil for a U.S. consulting firm prior to joining CVNE), he has dramatically transformed the brand, raising its prominence both in Spain and globally over the past 15 years.

His marketing and business acumen led him to focus first on building out the export side when he took over. These efforts have been buoyed by the buying up of distribution channels and, more recently, with an expansion of the brand. This latter endeavor has been primarily centered on the purchase of abandoned vineyards and undervalued properties, especially in emerging regions. Consequently, CVNE now produces wine in Galicia, Ribera del Duero and in Catalonia, thanks to the acquisition of a Cava producer.

But, business know-how can only take you so far. It is through these changes, coupled with the company’s continued commitment to quality, that CVNE has garnered significant success. Among its many awards, was the recognition of its Imperial Gran Reserva 2004 as the #1 Wine of the Year (in 2013) by Wine Spectator magazine, the first time that a wine from Spain received this honor, further elevating the brand’s reputation and reach. The winery has also been ranked among the top 100 wineries in the world by Wine & Spirits Magazine.

Such kudos echo the company’s earliest praise, having received Gold Medals at the 1889 International Exhibition in Paris, and at the 1890 International Exhibition in Antwerp as well as taking the Grand Prix at the Paris International Exhibition in 1900. The company’s current connection to its historical roots underscore Victor’s admonition that, “What defines our future is in our past.”

A prime example of this mantra is CVNE’s Monopole Clasico. First produced in 1915, it lays claim to being the oldest white wine brand in Spain. This unusual white was made with a small addition of Sherry to the blend, with the intent to counteract the low potential alcohol levels of the grapes at harvest and give it more backbone, which it did, along with a unique signature thanks to the Sherry’s yeastiness. Unfortunately, the wine fell out of fashion during the 1980s and CVNE stopped making altogether. However, thanks to interest from a visitor to the winery, they were inspired to reintroduce the wine, employing the original winemaker, Ezekiel, to teach them how to make it.

Another element of CVNE that marries its present with its past is its cellar, which has the rare distinction of having been designed by Gustav Eiffel. While previously, the winery wasn’t open to tourists, CVNE has gone all-in regarding wine tourism, welcoming 30,000 visitors annually, with time in the cellar featuring prominently in the visit. And, more recently, Victor purchased a derelict castle nearby, at which he plans to develop a more intimate tourist experience, along with a small winery, further adding to the company’s emphasis on welcoming the world at its door.

With its dedication to high quality wine production, sound and savvy business practices and a desire to grow strategically, CVNE is poised to not only sustain its current level of success, but, perhaps, to surpass it. Yet, as it extends its expansion outside of Rioja (aka the North of Spain), it might have to rethink its name ;-).

TASTING NOTES
Monopole Clasico Blanco Seco 2014, Rioja, Spain, $27.00
Given its inclusion of Sherry wine, this is not a true white Rioja, but that doesn’t make it any less delicious and, in fact, I was extremely impressed with its freshness and complexity. Dry, with bright acidity, apple and a hint of floral, culminating in long length.  It also has the ability to age with time.

Viña Real Crianza 2015, Rioja, Spain, $17.00
Hailing from a more delicate area within the Rioja region, this wine provides a juicy, fresher and younger expression of Rioja. Bright strawberry aromas and flavors with good acidity, slight oak and vanilla, long length.

Imperial Reserva 2012, Rioja, Spain, $45.00
This wine takes its name from its first bottling back in the 1920s when it was made for the English market and placed into Imperial Pint-sized vessels. Since then, Imperial has only been made in excellent vintages, with the intention of making the very best wine they can. Consequently, it is produced from a careful selection of top grapes from the company’s Rioja Alta vineyards. Notes of Spice, wood, strawberry, oak and clove, with medium acidity, medium body and very long length.

Imperial Gran Reserva 2011, Rioja, Spain, $80.00
As per law, the Gran Reserva spends a longer period of time aging in barrel than the Reserva wine, giving it more time to age and develop before being bottled and, ultimately, released. It also reflects the best selection of grapes. Silky smooth on the palate, this wine is still young, with red fruits, slight woodiness, elegance, finesse and a long finish. And, if that’s not enough to win you over, the 1994 vintage of this wine was served at Crown Prince (now King) Felipe’s royal wedding.

NB: If you are looking for a great place in New York City to try these (and many other Spanish wines), along with delicious tapas (such as those pictured), be sure to check out Casa Mono and its hospitable manager, Jahdea Gildin.

 

Antigal’s Malbec is the “Number One” Malbec you’ve never heard of

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Antigal’s Malbec is number one. Well, it does kind of say so on the label. All kidding aside, Bodega Antigal’s Uno Malbec was the first wine launched by this young Argentine producer and proudly displays the number one on its label. Its iconic numeral and name were first applied at the wine’s launch party in 2005 when a designer crafted the number from a metal barrel hoop in an effort to celebrate this new release. The design was well received, and the name stuck. Consequently, they continue to “label” the Malbec Uno with a replica of that initial metal cut out, complete with rivets. These 1s are affixed by hand, assembly-line style, by local women who work in the winery. The back label is silk-screened directly onto the bottle. They admit that this is a very expensive way to adorn their wine but recognize that the package design is the marketing and thus very important to getting their brand noticed and known.

While the winery sits on the site of an historic winery, dating to 1897, in the Mendoza region of Argentina, everything else about it is new. In this regard, the winery facilities were constructed in the early 2000s, with an emphasis on high quality, high-tech equipment. Beyond the winery, they are heavily focused on Malbec, with a range of wines produced, including several single-vineyard wines. There are three unique vineyards currently under vine, with another under development.

Antigal began exporting its wines to the United States in 2007, choosing to push the on-premise trade over the retail market, feeling that its wines would do well by-the-glass as well as on full bottle wine lists. Of course, there are some retail stores that stock their wines. Since its early stateside arrival, it has successfully negotiated distribution contracts for all 50 states, which is essentially the equivalent of negotiating with 50 different countries given the U.S.’s state-specific liquor laws.

I recently had the opportunity to taste the Uno Malbec 2014 over lunch at Brasserie Cognac on a lovely summer’s day. Despite the propensity to pair a Malbec with a meat-based dish, I was more inclined to opt for lighter fare due to the season and selected the grilled octopus salad. I was not disappointed as the Malbec was extremely elegant and well balanced with ripe fruit. It matched well with the salad and didn’t overpower it.

Antigal’s newest addition to its line-up is its Uno Sauvignon Blanc 2018, which will be making its New York debut this fall, with an SRP of $15.00. Coming soon to a wine list near you.

TASTING NOTE
Bodega Antigal Uno Malbec 2014, Mendoza, Argentina, $21.00 (retail)
Aromas of berries, smoke, slight wood greet the nose, all of which persist on the dry palate. Ripe, yet nicely balanced fruit dominates, joined by well-integrated oak, culminating in long length. Very elegant and food friendly.

At Bodegas Beronia, It’s All About that Barrel

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Back in 1973, a group of friends (in Spain) realized that they loved good food and wine and decided to embark on a joint venture in making wine for themselves. Once they got started, they had way too much wine, so they began gifting the wine to business colleagues and selling to local restaurants.

But, their production levels were still too high for personal consumption, prompting them to look for a commercial partner. In 1982, the group crossed paths with Sherry producer (and wine company) Gonzalez Byass and soon entered into a partnership with them, enabling Bodegas Beronia to grow into a successful, international brand.

Concurrent with the partnership, Matias Calleja joined the team as winemaker and has been with Bodegas Beronia ever since. This year, Calleja will celebrate his 37th vintage with the company, having completed only one harvest elsewhere (in Tarragona, his first). Yet, despite his lengthy tenure, he is still enjoying his post and having fun.

Moreover, Calleja has had a lasting influence on Bodegas Beronia in establishing the winery’s distinctive style. In this regard, he has been at the forefront of how best to impart oak into the wine.

As a wine that requires lengthy aging, Rioja has always been about wood and, in particular, about American oak; there was no use of French oak until the 1970s.  Once both types of wood were in play, for many winemakers, it was a matter of determining the best blend of American and French barrels.

American oak imparts cocoa, mocha and a sweeter note to the wine, while French oak gives more spice, clove, vanilla and pepper notes. Calleja initially tried aging some of the wine in American oak and some in French oak and then, ultimately, blending the wine together. But, the results were less than satisfactory. Instead, he had the brainchild to blend the cask itself; all of the barrel staves are made from American oak (representing about 65% of the barrel), while the top and bottom are made from French oak.

Yet, in spite of all this emphasis on oak, he is adamant that the fruit comes first and the oak must be secondary.  So, while it may seem that it is all about that bass (aka the wood influence); it’s actually all about the fruit!

Calleja’s hybrid barrels are primarily used for the Crianza and Reserva levels of his Rioja, while the Gran Reserva spends 26-28 months in French barrels, since French oak is better for longer-aged wines. As Calleja explained, “It respects the fruit better.” Having the opportunity at a recent press lunch to taste through barrel samples of the same wine aged in three different barrel types was extremely instructive in understanding how the oak shows up in the wine.

In addition to its traditional Riojan reds, Bodegas Beronia also produces a Rueda ($13 SRP) and a Rosé (~$13). For the Rueda, the harvest is intentionally staggered and lees contact is undertaken, both of which add fullness to the wine. Plus, the fermentation temperature is carefully controlled. The result is a wine with good aromatics in addition to a rich and round palate, with medium+ body and freshness. The winery’s rosé has recently undergone a makeover due to demand from the market (the U.S. in particular), evolving from a dark-colored Tempranillo to one with a more Provençal style. The new wine brings together Tempranillo and Garnacha, with only three hours of skin contact, producing a more savory, delicate and drier wine than their previous version, with melon, peach and herbal notes.

RIOJA TASTING NOTES

Bodegas Beronia Reserva 2013, Rioja Spain, $20.00
As a Reserva-level Rioja, this wine  was aged for 20 months in hybrid barrels, before spending an additional two years in bottle. The wine offers up strawberry, black cherry, oak, vanilla and spice aromas with juicy fruit, bright acidity and ripe tannins on the medium+-bodied palate.

Bodegas Beronia Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja Spain, $30.00
Aged for  28 months in French oak, this wine displays beautiful fresh and dried floral aromas along with strawberry, clove and oak, which persist on the palate. It has lovely acidity, a full body and long length.

 

 

Putting Provence Rose on the Map and In Your Glass

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As an old Virginia Slims ad used to say, “You’ve Come a Long Way, Baby.” While that slogan was targeted at women during the Women’s Lib movement of the late 1960s, the same sentiment might be attributed to rosé wine.

For decades, wine was relegated to two colors: white and red. Then, slowly, but surely, pink eased its way in.

As evidence of this shift, last summer, wine brand Chateau D’Esclans celebrated its tenth anniversary, hosted by Shaw-Ross International Importers, the brand’s U.S. importer since its launch in 2006. As Paul Chevalier, National Fine Wine Director for Shaw Ross recounted, “it has been quite a ride these past ten years. The key behind this early partnership was Sacha Lichine, and it was Sacha’s determination to put rosé on the map that convinced us. And trust me; no one was drinking rosé in the U.S. back in 2006.”

While rosé sales in the U.S. had begun to grow slightly in the early 2000s, it wasn’t until 2008 that the category really started to take off, a trend that continues today. And far from this trend being over, Chevalier believes that the rosé category still has a strong future ahead. “What we are seeing now is that rosé consumption is starting to spread across all 50 states (specifically middle America). That was hardly the case even just three years ago… This has a long way to go.”

Like Sacha Lichine, Mathilde Chapouter has been a big proponent of crafting quality rosé wine in Provence and was (and continues to be) the driving force behind the creation of Grand Ferrage Rosé, which required a lobbying effort on her part to convince her dad (famed winemaker, Michel Chapouter).

Thanks to Sacha, Mathilde and others, rosé is now here to stay and it was with great pleasure that I received the most recent vintage of Mathilde Chapoutier’s Grand Ferrage Rosé. With its gold-inked inscription, “From Provence, with Love, Mathilde,” I felt like I was receiving a gift from an old friend, having met Mathilde previously [See my story on Mathilde]. The wine was the perfect accompaniment to a pesto pasta salad, which I enjoyed at a Summer Solstice celebration in Central Park and very much in keeping with Mathilde’s philosophy in making a wine to be shared with friends.

Mathilde Chapoutier Grand Ferrage Rosé 2017, Cotes de Provence, France, SRP: $24.00
Its floral aromas, were joined by flavors of melon and strawberry on the medium-bodied palate, along with beautifully bright acidity. It has a lovely, yet delicate, structure, culminating in long length.

 

 

Gaetano Marangelli: A Man on a Mission

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Gaetano Marangelli is a man on a mission. The owner of Cantine Menhir Salento in Italy’s Puglia region, he has been seeking to re-establish indigenous grape varieties since he was a teenager. Today, his mentor has moved on, but Marangelli is still committed to growing grapes such as Minutolo and Susumaniello.

A member of the Muscat family, Minutolo is also known as Fiano bianco, but it is not related to Campania’s Fiano; instead this association is due to the fact that the word fiano means honey/sweet. Like other Muscat varieties, Minutolo offers up pronounced floral and honey aromas. And, thanks to Marangelli’s efforts, this variety is finding new favor; he presently has about 5 hectares planted.

And, his passion for diversity doesn’t stop at grapes. He is currently in the process of comparing and contrasting different chicken varieties to see if there are differences in the resulting eggs. He also grows numerous varieties of basil, believing that different types of the herb go better in some dishes than others. All of the results of these experiments are incorporated into his restaurant menu.

Marangelli’s Puglian property is situated in Minervino di Lecce, just inland from Otrano in the southeastern portion of Puglia. It boasts 10 hectares of vineyards and is home to a 40-hectare organic farm from which he sources much for his aforementioned, on-site restaurant, Origano – Osteria & Store.

As a company, Mehhir Salento dates to 2005, but the estate is much older, with some Primitivo vineyards planted 80+ years ago. The vineyards are currently undergoing conversion to organic viticulture and Marangelli is on track to receive formal certification in 2019.

In the meantime, he continues to pursue his preservation mission and pouring his passion into his winemaking (and his omelettes).

TASTING NOTES

Pietra Rosato 2017 IGP Salento, Puglia, Italy
This blend of Negroamaro and Susumaniello offers up bright aromas of red apple, cranberries and spice. It is dry with good acidity, nice depth and long length, on the palate.

Passo-O 2017 IGP Puglia, Puglia, Italy
During the Crusades, Otranto, situated on the Apian Way, was a door to the Middle East and a church here was the last spot before one left Italy. This wine honors that legacy with its name. Produced from 100% Minutolo, this wine displays aromas and flavors of pear, floral and a hint of dried herbs, along with medium acidity, medium body and long length.

Pietra Salice Salento DOC 2015 Puglia, Italy
Bringing together 80% Negroamaro, 20% Malvasia Nera, this wine features herbal notes, along with red and black bramble fruits and a hint of oak, with silky tannins and long length.

Anna Pietra Primitivo Susumaniello 2015, Puglia, Italy
Paying tribute to his mother and daughter, both named Anna, this blend of 60% Primitivo 40% Susumaniello sees no oak and, consequently, is a fresher style of red, with ripe black fruit, vibrant acidity and long length.

Flowers, Fashion and Holy Days of Grape Obligation: Geyser Peak celebrates Sauvignon Blanc Day with a new line up of wines

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With its “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” costume exhibit debuting this week after Monday night’s Met Gala, Catholicism is front and center. Frankly, if nothing else, it’s hard to ignore Rihanna dressed as the Pope, as imagined by Margiela.

Among their religious requirements, practitioners of the Catholic faith are bound by holy days of obligation; those days – Sundays and six specific holidays – on which they are obliged to participate in Mass.

Meanwhile, those of us who worship Dionysius must adhere to a different set of dates, namely International [Fill in the Grape] Day, such as those homages to Malbec and Merlot. Of course, adhering to these varietal-based celebrations isn’t much of a hardship. In fact, the recent observance of Sauvignon Blanc Day on May 4 was such a pleasant opportunity to give praise for this great grape!

And, with its newest appellation series of Sauvignon Blanc wines, Geyser Peak made the task especially easy. Established in 1880 (as its logo can proudly attest), Geyser Peak was named for the geysers in the Healdsburg area and has a long history of winemaking. The winery has focused on Sauvignon Blanc since the 1980s but has only recently launched this new Winemakers Selection line up to underscore the influence of terroir on the variety. Currently, it is available direct to consumer on their website and for visitors to the winery.

Among other changes taking place, Geyser Peak has a new winemaker (Randy Meyer), a newly redesigned label and has made the transition to the Stelvin screw cap to top off its wines. In addition to his passion for winemaking, Meyer is very into flowers, prompting a partnership between Geyser Peak and the Field to Vase American grown Dinner Tour in which the winery will provide wines to be paired with a farm-to-table menu at each event. The first two dinners are already sold out, but you can still score a seat at the table in Sacramento, CA, Soldier’s Grove, WI or Nashville, TN. What to wear? Floral-inspired attire, of course!

Certainly, stunning flowers, great food and great wines, like great style, never go out of fashion. And, while attendance at the Met Gala was limited to those approved by Anna Wintour (and who must also pony up the $30,000 per person charitable contribution), us mere mortals can enjoy the exhibit now through October 8, 2018, which boasts installations at both the Fifth Avenue and Cloisters locations.

Tasting Notes
Geyser Peak River Ranches Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $22
Part of the previous portfolio, the River Ranches Sauvignon Blanc offers up pronounced grassy aromas, most reminiscent of the New Zealand style, accompanied with citrus and melon notes. Yet, despite its overt aromatics, it is very balanced and elegant, with a hint of minerality, culminating in long length.

Geyser Peak Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Dry Creek Valley (CA), USA, $26
Produced in 2017, which was marked by a heat wave, making it a warmer, riper year, this Sauvignon Blanc is more fruit forward with citrus and tropical fruit aromas and flavors. On the palate, it is dry, with medium+ acidity, displaying freshness and herbaceousness that linger nicely.

Geyser Peak Alexander Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Alexander Valley (CA), USA, $26
With grapes sourced from a cooler area of Sonoma, this Sauvignon Blanc was the most muted of the four, with an emphasis on fresh/green/herbal characteristics rather than fruit. It was slightly lighter on the palate than the others and, with its more mild palate, perhaps provides a broader range of food pairing.

Geyser Peak Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $26
This Sauvignon Blanc showed more pronounced fruit on the nose, specifically lychee, as well as sweet, floral aromas with an almost confected (though not unpleasant) quality. Despite the sweet aromas, it is dry on the palate with medium acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Everything’s Coming Up Rubies: Hess Collection Celebrates Its 40th Anniversary

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The traditional gift for a 40th anniversary is ruby, so it is especially fitting that the Hess Collection, first established in 1978, should celebrate with several new “ruby red” releases. While many know the wine label for its entry-level Hess Select wines, the company’s more prestigious Hess Collection consists of Napa Valley and sub-Napa Valley appellations, all of which are produced from estate grown fruit and are more complex, site-specific expressions of the Napa Valley terroir.

Founder Donald Hess, who literally turned water into wine when he sold off his bottled water business to buy acreage in the Napa Valley in 1978, has now retired. In 2011, Hess ceded his legacy to the next generation – his daughter Sabrina and son-in-law, Tim Persson – while winemaking operations continue to be overseen by Senior Vice President for Winemaking and Viticulture, Dave Guffy, who has been with Hess since 1999.

Situated on Mount Veeder, next door to the Christian Brothers, Hess winery is one of the largest landowners in the Valley, with 700 planted acres. And, they are constantly on the look out for more. Nicole Carter, Hess Family Wine Estates Director of Winemaking and Chief Marketing Officer, relayed a story about the recent pursuit for a 10-acre Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard in Rutherford on which they were significantly outbid over their $7 million offer. At an average price of $1million per planted acre in the valley, Carter adds, “You have to have the stomach for writing big checks.”

Having been born and raised in Switzerland, Hess, the 4th generation of a brewing family, has always had a more European palate for wines and consequently, the Hess house style tends toward a less oak is more mentality, which is noticeably reflected in the wines.

Another influence from Hess’ early life is his passion for collecting art. Hess grew up in a household with white walls, devoid of any decoration, but was introduced to the artworld by a friend and bought his first painting, a Picasso (why start small?), in 1996, igniting a life-long passion for contemporary art. In addition to limiting his purchases to those pieces he loves, his criteria also require that he only collects art from those artists with whom he has a relationship and, interestingly, will not permit the artist to restore any pieces, preferring to rely on conservators who will not make any changes. Twenty-five percent of his collection is displayed at the Napa Valley winery, adding a museum experience for visitors. The art legacy is carried on by a second daughter, while the third daughter has taken on dad’s real estate interests.

With its storied history, the Hess family crest, which proudly features a byzantine-style lion, has always adorned the family’s alcoholic pursuits. It previously graced the labels of the family’s beer business and was then adopted for the winery. A more recent adaptation of the lion has been designed for the label of the newly created “Lion Tamer” and more strongly recalls the history of the original Hess crest.

Similarly, the Icon family of wines, which are made up of “The Lioness” and “The Lion”, also display the lion and engender the Hess Family credo, “Live each day with the heart and courage of the lion,” as the top wines in the Collection. In particular, “The Lioness”, a Chardonnay, was crafted to honor the Hess women, and was first released in 2015.

Aside from the eponymous winery in Napa Valley, The Hess Collection owns two wineries in Argentina: Colomé and Amalaya; a Pinot Noir property, Macphail Family Wines, on California’s North Coast, and a Zinfandel-focused label, Artezin. So, there are plenty of options for you to choose as you raise a glass and toast Hess’ 40th Anniversary!

TASTING NOTES
Hess Collection Chardonnay 2016. Napa Valley, USA, $22
The grapes for this wine are sourced from 200 acres of vineyards planted in the southern end of the Napa Valley, which is south of Carneros and located in the unincorporated portion of the Valley, formerly home to an ancient sea bed. Featuring the Musque clone, the overtly aromatic character of this clone is immediately apparent in the wine with floral and peach aromas and flavors. During production, 70% is fermented in stainless steel, while the remainder is barrel-fermented, adding depth and texture, but not a distinct oak flavor. It is full bodied, with a fresh and luscious palate, culminating in long length.

Hess Collection “Allomi” Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Napa Valley, USA, $32
Named for the original land grant that established this ranch, the grapes for this wine come from a 75-acre plot in the Pope Valley. It is a Cabernet Sauvignon, with a touch of Petit Sirah and Malbec added and is the only wine in the Collection to be aged in American oak (as opposed to French). It is a really elegant presentation, lightly oaked, with soft tannins, good acidity and medium+ to full body. Its beautiful nose is redolent of blackberry/black fruits, spice and a hint of dried herbs; great value for a Napa Valley Cab!

Hess Collection “Lion Tamer” Red Blend 2015, Napa Valley, USA, $45
Hess is one of the largest growers of Malbec in Napa. Why? Because the tannins of Malbec can tame the tannins of other grapes, prompting the development of this new wine. An interesting blend of 55% Malbec, 23% Zinfandel and a soupcon of Mourvedre for aromatics and acidity, this wine offers up bright red and black fruit, particularly blueberries, soft tannins, medium+ body and fresh acidity. It is intense and powerful, yet fresh and lively on the palate.

Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Mount Veeder-Napa Valley, USA, $65
The company’s flagship wine, this Cabernet Sauvignon hails from the original vineyard, planted in 1978. Its nose was a bit shy, but the palate was more generous. It is very structured, with ripe, yet firm tannins, blackberry, a hint of oak, dried herbs and full bodied, with long length.

Hess Collection “The Lion” Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Mount Veeder-Napa Valley, USA, $185
Of the aforementioned Icon wines, this wine is produced from grapes from a top Mt. Veeder vineyard known as Ridge 4. Aromas of blackberry, oak, smoke and menthol greet the nose and persist on the palate, along with an earthiness that lingers in the long finish. The wine has good acidity and elegance, but is tight and needs time to develop to be truly appreciated.