Lugana DOC dines at Jing Fong, two souls and lots of happiness

While the adage, “What grows together, goes together,” is a great place to start for food and wine pairing inspiration, if you don’t explore beyond it, you will miss out. As part of her Inaugural Lugana Dinner Series, East Coast Lugana Ambassador, Susannah Gold, proved the point in spades with a recent Chinese banquet accompanied by a variety of wines from the Consorzio Lugana DOC. Held at Jing Fong, Susannah and Pinny Tam, author of Chinese Wine and Food Pairings.com, put together an amazing meal that highlighted the flexibility and diversity of these wines.

Kicking off the event with a warm welcome, Susannah noted that the Lugana DOC had two souls in that it uniquely spans two Italian regions: Lombardy and the Veneto, depending upon which side of Lake Garda the winery is situated. This beautiful area sits essentially at sea level, with elevations of only 50-150 meters, on a glacial moraine with a range of sediment in the soils, including fossils.

This small winemaking region is on the rise, having increased production from 9 million bottles in 2015 to 18.9 million bottles currently. Today, there are 200 producers and, in addition to the increased volume, it is experiencing increased interest, notably by the Germans, who frequent the region as tourists, but also from American consumers.

At the center of its wine production is the Turbiana grape, which is also known as Trebbiano di Lugana. A biotype of Verdicchio, which is most associated with the Marche region, it, too, has the propensity to age. Although the wines are generally dry, the super high acidity is balanced with approximately 7 g/l of residual sugar, which permitted them to pair well with the Asian cuisine.

In business for 78 years, Jing Fong is one of the oldest Catnonese restaurants in the U. S. At the helm is Executive Chef, Kai Fung Lai, also known as Chef Fung who has been with Jing Fong for over 20 years.

The sumptuous banquet featured Catonese cuisine, which Pinny explained was known for a simple approach (not overly covered with sauces) and also a lot of seafood and fish, given the southern province’s proximity to the sea and river. Moreover, she further advised that stir-frying is the most common cooking method, resulting in clean, not overly greasy, food. Additionally, she cited frequent use of garlic, ginger, scallion, cornstarch and sugar, rice wine as the base for seasonings.

Referred to as a Happiness Dinner, our banquet was served family-style, with each course presented in the center of the table before being served on our individual plates. It was an elevated family meal, with flourishes added to celebrate birthdays and other festive occasions. And, boy were we happy! The courses kept coming, spanning from fried rice and fried fish to lobster and a platter of cuttlefish adorned with its own floral arrangement.

Moreover, the wines truly held their own. Although there was certainly a thread that ran through them, each of the wines had a distinctive characteristic that permitted it to match the next course. It was a wonderful evening of great wine, great food and great company… and lots of happiness!

Our full menu:

  • Baked scallops with crispy seafood rolls
  • Sautéed cuttlefish with vegetables
  • Sautéed shrimp and chicken
  • Assorted seafood in a basket
  • Oriental steak filet
  • Crispy whole chicken
  • Fried filet of fish with minced garlic
  • Steamed lobster with garlic over E-Fu Noodles
  • House Fried Rice
  • Dessert: Coconut Gelatin and Fresh Orange Segments

TASTING NOTES

Cantina Bulgarini Lugana DOC 2017
This Lombardy-based, family-run winery is currently in the hands of Fausto Bulgarini, a member of the third generation to manage the winery and a collector of race cars. This wine was fresh, with floral and peach notes, a dry palate, high acidity, minerality and long length.

Le Morette Mandolara Lugana DOC 2017
Named for a popular bird native to the region, which was considered sacred during the Etruscan period, this winery was founded in 1955 and is in the Veneto. It was fuller bodied that the Cantina Bulgarini, with rich and concentrated flavors of peach and almond, culminating in long length.

The vibrant acidity and fresh fruit notes on these first two wines made them an especially excellent accompaniment to the fried and creamy dishes.

Cà Maiol Molin Lugana DOC Molin 2017
This wine takes its name from one of the estate’s old farms. It offered up lively acidity and was slightly frizzante on the palate, along with tropical fruit, citrus, minerality and long length.

Cesari Cento Filari Lugana DOC 2016
With 5% of Chardonnay added to the Turbiana, coupled with a long macertation, this wine had more structure and richness, displaying an almost a creamy note, with less fruit and more structure. As a result, it paired extremely well with the lobster dish. Ca

Dei Frati Brolettino Lugana DOC 2016
This Lombardy winery was founded in 1939. The wine possessed full body, with apple and toothpick aromas and flavors thanks to its oak aging, along with medium acidity and enough body and structure to match with the chicken and steak.

Tenuta Roveglia Lugana DOC Vendage Tardive Filo di Arianna 2014
Tenuta Roveglia was established by a Swiss businessman In 1930. This wine is harvested in late October/ early November, by hand, and then fermented and aged in small oak barrels, yielding a wine with depth, richness and concentration. Notes of honey and citrus dominated the nose and palate, joined with long length. It works well with dessert, unctuous cheeses or rich meats.

Domaine Bousquet provides wines perfect for a picnic

Looking for a perfect pair of wines to take along to your next picnic? Look no further than Domaine Bouquet’s Sauvignon Blanc and Rose wines from the latest vintage. This Argentine duo are made from organically grown grapes, in vineyards situated within the high altitudes of Mendoza’s Uco Valley. Produced by the Bousquet-Al Ameri family, the winery has made wines for the past 15 years.

First established by Jean Bousquet, Anne Bousquet took over in 2011, joined by her husband Labid Al Ameri. The husband and wife team brought in consulting winemaker Paul Hobbs to improve their viticultural practices in 2015 and are presently working on their newest planting project, which features Grenache and Cabernet Franc.

However, their overarching goal is simply stated by Anne, “We just want to make the finest wines possible and sell them at prices people can afford.” What more could you want?

Tasting Notes

Domaine Bousquet Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Tupungato Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, $13.00
A pronounced nose of tropical fruit, citrus and pineapple, with a dry palate of fresh fruit and a slight herbal note. It is easy to drink (perhaps a bit, too easy? 😊), and very refreshing with long length.

Domaine Bousquet Rosé 2019, Tupungato Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, $13.00
A blend of 45% Malbec, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Pinot Gris, this rosé is pale salmon in color. It is dry on the palate, with ripe raspberries, cherries and a hint of herbs, with medium acidity, medium body and long length.

From Régis to the Sublime: Piper-Heidsieck’s Changing of the Guard

For over two decades, Régis Camus has been at the helm of Piper-Heidsieck’s winemaking, garnering admiration, accolades and awards (as Piper’s Chef de Caves, he has been named Sparkling Winemaker of the Year eight times by the International Wine Challenge jury). But, after 24 vintages devoted to the Cuvée Brut NV, it was time for a change.

Since 2000, Camus has included the company’s prestige cuvée, Rare, under his purview and was responsible for the creation of its rosé counterpart, Rare Rosé, first released in 2016. While Rare was initially the tete du cuvée, the wine has now become its own brand with increasing substance and status. Accordingly, as Camus turns his attention to all things Rare, Piper-Heidsieck has brought in new talent to take over its Cellar Master spot: Émilien Boutillat.

Admittedly, given Camus’ experience and expertise, these are not easy shoes to fill. However, the youthful Boutillat is no stranger to Champagne, having grown up in the region to a Champagne-producing family. In fact, his father worked with Piper-Heidsieck as a grower and Boutillat fondly remembers visiting the Champagne house as a child to ride the train that used to be on the property.

Following in his family’s footsteps, he studied enology and agricultural engineering, and went on to work harvests both at home and abroad. After building up a solid portfolio of experience with stints in Bordeaux, the Rhône Valley, Southern France, Chile, New Zealand, California and South Africa, he returned to Champagne as Cellar Master for Champagnes Cattier and Armand de Brignac.

In late 2018, Boutillat joined Piper-Heidsieck, working closely with Camus to better understand the style of the brand and learn how to make the blend. He is committed to maintaining the same style and excellence of the Piper brand, but is also looking forward to making his mark. In this regard, he anticipates making subtle changes as he adds his own personal touch, all while respecting the DNA of the brand.

More specifically, Boutillat notes that details are very important, and plans to focus on the vineyards more so than on changes in winemaking, looking at factors such as harvest dates. He is also dedicated to sustainable agriculture, with the intention of adding to the efforts already underway at Piper-Heidsieck. In particular, he will encourage sustainable viticulture practices among Piper’s partners and will raise standards in the vineyards.

When not at work, he performs with a local Improv theater group and is an avid hiker. Closer to home, he grows his own vegetables and enjoys cooking, always seeking to find a balance between the wine and food. Thus, it was a perfect introduction to him and the art of pairing wine and food, when he made his New York debut after nine months of “study.” At lunch at Hudson Yards’ Wild Ink, the current crop of Piper-Heidsieck’s Champagnes showed beautifully with the Asian-inspired cuisine and we had fun trying out different wines with each course. Although none of these wines were made by Boutillat, it was clear that he is up to the challenge and that the future of Piper-Heidsieck is in good hands.

TASTING NOTES

Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV, $45.00
Based on the 2015 vintage, the Cuvée is made up of 50% Pinot Noir 30% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. It is toasty and fruity with citrus and pear notes. The palate is rich and complex yet not complicated, with long length.

Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage NV, $60.00
The Rosé Sauvage uniquely drinks more like a still wine than a Champagne and is one of the darkest rosé’s on the market. It offers up dark red fruit and berries, along with smoke and sweet spices, with intense richness on the palate, along with great acidity and long length.

Piper-Heidsieck Brut 2012, $80.00
The 2012 is the most recent vintage; the last one was 2008. A 50-50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, sourced among the best grapes from Grand and Premier Crus vineyards, this is an age-worthy wine that can keep in the cellar for up to 15 years. Aromas of yeast, tree fruit, toastiness and cherry greet the nose, while the palate is very complex, seductive, generous and creamy, with the added flavors of honey and spice, culminating in long length.

Piper-Heidsieck Sublime (Demi-Sec), $55.00
This demi-sec dessert wine has 35 g/l of residual sugar, but is very balanced and elegant, with bright acidity and a citrus note lingering in the fresh finish. Aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, vanilla, mango, gingerbread and coconut made it a perfect pairing partner to dessert as well as spicy foods.





Summer Sippers: 2019 Edition

With Memorial Day weekend in the rear-view mirror and the Summer Solstice upon us, we know that it’s safe to wear white and drink rosé (although admittedly you can drink pink any time of year!).

Jokes aside, it’s the perfect time of year to turn our attention to whites and consider lighter reds, along with the requisite rosés, as we get behind the grill or head to the park for a picnic. As such, we want food-friendly, fun and festive wines that will be a welcome addition to the party. Here are just a few ideas to get you in the mood for Summer 2019!

WHITE WINES
Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe Palomino Fino NV, Jerez, Spain, $20.00
Produced from 100% Palomino grapes, this wine is fresh, with slight yeasty and light nutty notes on both the nose and palate, culminating in long length. It is a great aperitif as well as a partner with salty, savory dishes.

Bodega Inurrieta Orchidea 2018, Navarra, Spain, $12.00
This Sauvignon Blanc offers up a pronounced nose of slight herbs, pink grapefruit, tropical fruit. It is dry with medium+ acidity, ripe citrus flavors with a hint of pith in the undercurrent, pineapple, medium+ body and long length.

Elk Cove Vineyards Pinot Gris Estate 2017, Willamette Valley (OR), USA, $19.00
This wine is beautifully aromatic, with concentrated aromas of floral, pear, and spice, along with a dry palate with medium acidity, ripe fruit and long length.

Ponzi Aurora Chardonnay 2016, Willamette Valley (OR) USA, $65.00
Barrel fermented and aged in barrel for 20 months, this wine is slightly woody with notes of vanilla and spice. Its full-bodied palate displays freshness, good fruit and acidity, with notes of apple and melon, good texture and salinity before culminating in long length.

ROSE WINES
Muga, Flor de Muga Rosé 2017 Rioja, Spain, $24.00
Produced from 100% Garnacha, this pink-hued wine is both delicious and refreshing, with good berries fruit.

M. Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut “Les Vignes” 2018, Pays d’Oc Rosé, France, $15.00
This estate was purchased by Michel Chapoutier in 1999 and, while this wine previously featured a small percentage of Syrah, this is the first vintage in which it has been phased out completely. It is now a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Cinsualt, displaying notes of strawberry, cotton candy, slight herbs and watermelon on the nose and dry palate, coupled with bright acidity and long length.

Louis Laurent Rosé d’Anjou 2018, Loire Valley, France, $13.00
Pale salmon in color, this wine is slightly off-dry, with aromas and flavors of floral, ripe berries, honey and cotton candy, with medium body and long length. The hint of sweetness is a good counterpoint to spicy foods.

Sokol Blosser Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir 2018, Dundee Hills (OR), USA, $25.00
This wine has been made since Sokol Blosser’s early days, but has gone through numerous name changes including Bouquet of Rose and Vin Gris of Pinot Noir. Aromas of peach, spice and strawberry greet the nose and are joined by spice and pepper on the dry, fresh, palate, along with good structure.

RED WINES
Domaine Gerard Millet Sancerre Rouge 2017, Loire Valley, France, $26.00
This wine offers up notes of smoke, herbs and dark cherry on the nose, with a dry palate, flavors of cherry and herbaceousness, bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Il Poggione Rosso di Toscana 2017, Tuscany, Italy, $19.00
This blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot displays aromas of dark red fruit, a hint of herbs and coffee, while the dry, medium+-bodied palate shows firm, ripe textural tannins, with bright acidity, fresh red, explosive fruit and long length. The wine can take a chill, making it a great option for a summer red!

Basile Cartacanta 2015 Montecucco Sangiovese, Tuscany, Italy, $23.00
Bringing together 80% Sangiovese with 10% Merlot and 10% Ciligiolo, this wine was aged for 12 months in French oak, then spent 18 months in bottle. With a lovely nose
of black cherry, slight herbs, oak and vanilla, it has a dry palate with ripe, juicy cherries, medium tannins with a grainy texture, medium+ body and long length.

Poggio Stenti Tribulo 2016, Montecucco Sangiovese, Tuscany, Italy, $24.00
Produced from 100% Sangiovese, this wine was aged for 18 months in French oak. It has an expressive nose of dried cherries, dried herbs and oak, with a dry palate, medium+ acidity, medium+ tannins, medium+ body, flavors of tart cherry and herbs and very long length.



Hess’s Lions Head Luxury Collection, taming lions and tannins

A few weeks ago, I was about to run out the door to a wine event when I noticed a torn wrapper on the floor. Upon further investigation, I realized that our dog had gotten hold of an unopened chocolate bar and had proceeded to enjoy the taboo treat. Since chocolate is poisonous to canines, I immediately rushed her to the vet who took care of her right away. Thankfully, she has since made a full recovery.

Needless to say, it was a stressful day and that night I very much wanted a glass of wine – a good glass of wine – because life is too short. And, somehow between managing clients and caring for the dog, I felt a bit like I was herding cats.

Or, perhaps, as I reached for the bottle of wine… a lion tamer? I had previously tasted the Hess Collection wines at a luncheon last year and had been quite impressed. Thus, when the opportunity to taste two new releases came up, I pounced (OK, I’m done with the feline puns, I promise).

In any case, the lion has long been associated with the Hess family whose crest proudly features a byzantine-style lion and the animal has always adorned the family’s alcoholic pursuits. It previously graced the labels of the family’s beer business and was then adopted for the winery. More recently, it has been adapted and designed for the label of the “Lion Tamer,” which launched last year and more strongly recalls the history of the original Hess crest.

Not surprisingly, the Hess family motto is “Live Each Day with the Heart and Courage of The Lion.” The lion’s Latin name, Panthera Leo, gives rise to the winery’s newest addition to the Lions Head Luxury Collection. This collection represents the most recent development at Hess, currently under the direction of Donald Hess’ son-in-law Tim Persson, and wife, Sabrina.

Hess Collection Panthera Chardonnay 2016. Russian River Valley, USA, $45.00
This launch release is produced from 100% Chardonnay and was aged in 35% new French oak for 15 months. Slight buttery notes, a hint of oak and vanilla and apple greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is dry, concentrated, rich and ripe, with apple, pear, nuts and butter/creamy flavors. It is medium+-bodied, with medium acidity, good balanced, elegance and long length.

Hess Collection “Lion Tamer” Red Blend 2016, Napa Valley, USA, $45.00
A changing blend, the latest release brings together 40% Malbec, 27%  Zinfandel, 21% Petite Sirah, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Mourvèdre, 1% Petite Verdot, 1% Merlot, which has been aged in 40% new French oak for 22 months. Aromas of plum, blackberries, blueberries and vanilla, give way to a full-bodied, dry, rich and ripe palate, with concentrated fruit of mulberry, bright, juicy acidity, ripe tannins and long length.

All I want for Christmas: Things that sparkle

Regardless of which winter holidays you do or don’t celebrate, who doesn’t want to be on the receiving end of presents? So, with that in mind, I am starting a list just in case anyone wants to know what to get me. Next up, all that glitters!

One of the things I always say is that everything is better that sparkles. This is true of water, wine, diamonds and personalities!

So, you can be sure that I had to have one of these Goldish aura-activated sparkling body chains when I first saw them in the Journelle email that featured them… until I saw the price (but that’s why they make such a perfect gift).

 

 

 

Also not in the budget, but definitely on the Desire List are almost any of Christian Louboutin‘s embellished pumps collection as seen in an email from Nordstrom, although the one pictured is my favorite of the lot. Oh well, a girl can dream.

 

Thankfully, the Gaudi-inspired, beautifully-packaged,  duo of Cavas from Vilarnau is an affordable option to imbue your holidays with glitz and glamour. Named for the Arnau family’s castle that stood on the banks of the Anoia River, the Vilarnau property, situated just outside Barcelona, evokes a magical scene right out of a fairy tale. Available in a classic Brut Reserva (SRP $14.99) and a Brut Reserva Rosé (SRP $15.99), these sparkling wines will be a welcome addition to any celebration.

And you’ll still have money left over to gift me a pair of shoes!

All I Want for Christmas: Marta Scarampi dresses

Regardless of which winter holidays you do or don’t celebrate, who doesn’t want to be on the receiving end of presents? So, with that in mind, I am starting a list just in case anyone wants to know what to get me. Next up, a fabulous dress from Marta Scarampi!

Thanks to a holiday invite from my friend Susannah Gold of Vigneto Communications, I had the pleasure of meeting the Torino-based designer and browsing her wares while sipping wines from Lugana, a unique DOC that spans two Italian regions – Lombardia and the Veneto. Here, the white grape variety Turbiana, which is closely related to Trebbiano di Soave, reigns supreme, finding its way into a wide range of wine styles from still to sparkling and from dry to sweet. [NB: I previously wrote about Lugana’s wines last year.]

 

Italian native Marta Scarampi studied at FIT before returning home to launch her fashion line. Her line features a selection of capes and her travel and business collection – dresses and jackets that easily go from the boardroom to the boarding queue.

These capes are much better to keep a super woman warm on a cold day and can be customized with faux fur collars, rainproof hoods and are available in a range of fabrics and styles. They looked uber chic and sophisticated on my friend, Lisa, who tried on several different options.

Always and forever the dress girl, I was smitten by two styles in Marta’s collection. The first was her Lucca stretch dress (pictured left), while the other was a more celebratory number with metallic threads, worthy of the holiday season. Like the capes, the dress styles can also be made-to-order with the client’s preferred fabric choice.

Thanksgiving with an Indian accent

The first time I hosted Thanksgiving, it was actually the day AFTER Thanksgiving. So, we decided to spice things up a bit by re-imagining the traditional holiday meal, southwestern style. Accordingly, we served up turkey fajitas, salsa and chips, cornbread stuffing and pumpkin flan. It was perfect and well received.

Now that my parents are retired and living in Florida, my husband’s and my new tradition is making reservations at a nice restaurant that offers up some version of the customary menu (it is the only time of the year that I eat turkey), but not too traditional or limited since hubby could care less about the traditional fare.

In a similar twist to that first Thanksgiving dinner, this year we were enticed by the prix fixe menu presented by Indian Accent, which offered up a multi-course meal featuring the usual suspects, but, (pardon the pun) with an Indian accent (see menu below). The restaurant has three locations: New York, New Delhi and London and prides itself on reinterpreting traditional Indian cuisine.

A friend had mentioned that the restaurant’s cocktails were outstanding (they were), but we were even more pleased with the jewel of a wine list curated by sommelier, Edwin J. Davila. Both wide ranging and eclectic, there were a significant number of delicious options under $100 and many under $75, which was wonderful. With Edwin’s guidance, we ordered the Sybille Kuntz Riesling Spatlese Trocken 2011 (Mosel, Germany), which was absolutely perfect with our dinner. Edwin noted that with the diversity of flavors and textures on the menu and no obvious geographic constraints (i.e. Italian fare with Italian wines), he was able to be very creative with his list. He also likes to make unusual marriages as evidenced by the vermouth he deliciously paired with the bacon kulcha.

INDIAN ACCENT THANKSGIVING MENU sesame chili sweet potato
sweet pickle ribs, sundried mango, onion seeds
mathri: duck khurchan or smoked eggplant bharta

***

roast turkey pinwheels, sage, paneer, chili tomato glaze
or
paneer and sage kofta, chili tomato glaze

served with
cumin maple Brussels sprout
tandoori cauliflower, spicy almond
kadhai potato, truffle cream
pumpkin and cranberry kulcha, sage butter
bacon kulcha, rosemary butter
christmas ham basmati pulao/ wild mushroom pulao

* * *

doda barfi treacle tart, vanilla bean ice cream
saffron pear petha, rice kheer, pecan candy

Maxville, the final (vinous) frontier for George Bursick

One of the beautiful things about wine is the way it brings people together. Sitting around with a glass or two (or more …) provides the opportunity to talk about the wine in question, but it just as easily opens the door for conversations about nearly anything. Such was the case when I met George Bursick, the new Executive Winemaker for Maxville Winery. His warmth is infectious, making you feel at ease and at home in his company and we shared lots of stories ranging from retirement destinations, home renovation projects, cheesecake recipes and dogs.

But, of course, we did also talk about wine. Graduating from what he refers to as the “famous UC Davis class of ’76,” George left the program with a master’s degree in Enology and quickly found work as winemaker for McDowell Valley Vineyards in Mendocino County. He then distinguished himself in the Sonoma Valley, with posts at Ferarri-Carano (where he was instrumental in building its varietal portfolio) and then at J Vineyards and Winery (expanding his repertoire to cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), repeatedly earning top marks for his wines.

He left J Vineyards in 2011 to focus full-time on his wine consulting business, but, more recently, has been lured to that “other” valley by an opportunity, which he describes as his last vinous frontier – crafting Napa Valley Cabs. When asked why, he promptly replied, “Why not?” But, clarified his answer, noting that the chance to work with such great fruit in such an historic setting, coupled with the high end set up at Maxville, was just too exciting to pass up.

The 1,000-acre historic estate was once the site of a children’s summer camp and then home to Catacula Lake Winery, but was derelict for many years before it was purchased three years ago by Qinghai Huzhu Barley Wine Co., Ltd. in Haidong in China. Seeing the property’s great potential, the Chinese company spared no expense in outfitting the winery with top of the line equipment. It was this investment that was a big part of the appeal for George.

George is also enthusiastic about Maxville’s location in the Chiles Valley. A sub-appellation of the Napa Valley, Chiles Valley AVA was established in 1999, but its first vineyards were planted as early as the mid-1800s, and the Maxville site is part of the original land grant given to Joseph Chiles in 1844. Now home to some of the oldest vines in Napa County, the distinctive valley offers up high elevations that help to temper the climate and provide good diurnal variation, along with a long growing season that permits the vines to thrive and the grapes to reach full maturity.

With 100 acres of vines currently planted, and another 40 acres planned, Maxville relies solely on estate-grown fruit to produce its wines. Even at its current size, George acknowledges that not all of the fruit is worthy of the winery’s top wines and thus, they are launching a secondary label, Big Max, which will permit them to produce Napa Valley wines under $30.00. These wines are set to hit the market early in 2019.

And, as George begins to more fully understand the vineyards under his purview, he is exploring the use of different clones and seeing how these vines marry with the estate’s terroir. He is similarly energized about having these various clones as part of the ingredients from which to craft his wines in the state-of-the-art winery.

When asked about this greater reliance on winemaking technology since his days at Davis, George reflected that the bar has been considerably raised. He explained that, back then, it was enough to make reasonably good wine, but today’s consumer expects the highest quality. He feels that the technological tools help make that possible, but he also adds that, with this high-tech equipment, they have given him enough rope… If he can’t produce top wines with all of these bells and whistles at his disposal, he knows that his time at Maxville will be short.

Despite the possible pressure, George is thrilled about this new challenge and eager to put his personal stamp on the wines. In particular, he advised that his predecessor produced wines more Bordelais in style and noted that, having written his graduate thesis on Factors affecting Wine Body, he brings a fatness or heft to his wines, a style he will apply to the Maxville wines going forward.

When not immersed in winemaking, George likes to take the time to appreciate the non-vinous aspects of the Maxville estate, extolling its virtues as a peaceful, Buddhist-like sanctuary, complete with a large lake. The property also boasts a cook’s kitchen and guest entertainment such as ATVs and archery, but of course, these pursuits must be enjoyed before tasting the wines.

TASTING NOTES
In between our lively conversation over lunch, we tasted through the current selection of Maxville’s wines:

Maxville Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $33.99
Produced from the Musque clone, this wine was fresh and bright with slight floral and citrus aromas, with a dry palate displaying lovely, intense citrus and long length.

Maxville Cabernet Franc 2014, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $66.99
This wine is a blend of 90% Cabernet Franc, with the remainder given over to Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. As vintages permit, George expects to increase the percentage of Cab Franc going forward and recently planted three different clones of the variety. With lush black fruit aromas, the wine offered up notes of boysenberry, black fruit, with just a hint of Cab Franc’s signature herbaceous character, balanced with nice acidity and a full body.

Maxville Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $66.99
Compared to the Cabernet Franc, the Cabernet Sauvignon was a more structured wine, with darker black fruit aromas and flavors, firm tannins. It also showed good acidity and long length.

Maxville Petite Sirah 2014, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $66.99
Maxville only produces a small quantity of this wine, given its tannic nature and need for lengthy aging to tame the tannins. It offered up lots of red fruit and was quite spicy on the nose and palate.

Flowers, Fashion and Holy Days of Grape Obligation: Geyser Peak celebrates Sauvignon Blanc Day with a new line up of wines

With its “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” costume exhibit debuting this week after Monday night’s Met Gala, Catholicism is front and center. Frankly, if nothing else, it’s hard to ignore Rihanna dressed as the Pope, as imagined by Margiela.

Among their religious requirements, practitioners of the Catholic faith are bound by holy days of obligation; those days – Sundays and six specific holidays – on which they are obliged to participate in Mass.

Meanwhile, those of us who worship Dionysius must adhere to a different set of dates, namely International [Fill in the Grape] Day, such as those homages to Malbec and Merlot. Of course, adhering to these varietal-based celebrations isn’t much of a hardship. In fact, the recent observance of Sauvignon Blanc Day on May 4 was such a pleasant opportunity to give praise for this great grape!

And, with its newest appellation series of Sauvignon Blanc wines, Geyser Peak made the task especially easy. Established in 1880 (as its logo can proudly attest), Geyser Peak was named for the geysers in the Healdsburg area and has a long history of winemaking. The winery has focused on Sauvignon Blanc since the 1980s but has only recently launched this new Winemakers Selection line up to underscore the influence of terroir on the variety. Currently, it is available direct to consumer on their website and for visitors to the winery.

Among other changes taking place, Geyser Peak has a new winemaker (Randy Meyer), a newly redesigned label and has made the transition to the Stelvin screw cap to top off its wines. In addition to his passion for winemaking, Meyer is very into flowers, prompting a partnership between Geyser Peak and the Field to Vase American grown Dinner Tour in which the winery will provide wines to be paired with a farm-to-table menu at each event. The first two dinners are already sold out, but you can still score a seat at the table in Sacramento, CA, Soldier’s Grove, WI or Nashville, TN. What to wear? Floral-inspired attire, of course!

Certainly, stunning flowers, great food and great wines, like great style, never go out of fashion. And, while attendance at the Met Gala was limited to those approved by Anna Wintour (and who must also pony up the $30,000 per person charitable contribution), us mere mortals can enjoy the exhibit now through October 8, 2018, which boasts installations at both the Fifth Avenue and Cloisters locations.

Tasting Notes
Geyser Peak River Ranches Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $22
Part of the previous portfolio, the River Ranches Sauvignon Blanc offers up pronounced grassy aromas, most reminiscent of the New Zealand style, accompanied with citrus and melon notes. Yet, despite its overt aromatics, it is very balanced and elegant, with a hint of minerality, culminating in long length.

Geyser Peak Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Dry Creek Valley (CA), USA, $26
Produced in 2017, which was marked by a heat wave, making it a warmer, riper year, this Sauvignon Blanc is more fruit forward with citrus and tropical fruit aromas and flavors. On the palate, it is dry, with medium+ acidity, displaying freshness and herbaceousness that linger nicely.

Geyser Peak Alexander Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Alexander Valley (CA), USA, $26
With grapes sourced from a cooler area of Sonoma, this Sauvignon Blanc was the most muted of the four, with an emphasis on fresh/green/herbal characteristics rather than fruit. It was slightly lighter on the palate than the others and, with its more mild palate, perhaps provides a broader range of food pairing.

Geyser Peak Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $26
This Sauvignon Blanc showed more pronounced fruit on the nose, specifically lychee, as well as sweet, floral aromas with an almost confected (though not unpleasant) quality. Despite the sweet aromas, it is dry on the palate with medium acidity, medium+ body and long length.