Category Archives: Lifestyle

Finding Hope in Dreams, Ron Rubin Winery

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This moment in time continues to be challenging for us all as the world grapples with both the pandemic and protests. The uncertainty for what it will all mean in the future is unsettling, but I am choosing to find hope amidst the pain.

Last week found me on a socially distant, “Pandemic Playdate” in the local park with my friend. She supplied the colored pencils and I brought a bottle of wine. The page I had selected to color that day read:

It is at this moment, when things appear so bleak that we must redouble our efforts and not give up. We must believe that we can remake the world in a more peaceful reality.
~Cynthia McKinney

I was in a dark place that afternoon, but this quote touched me deeply.

As we move forward to remake the world, I am holding my hopes and dreams in my heart and in my mind even though I don’t know when they will come to fruition. Along these lines, while some people leap straight into pursuing their passions, others wait patiently for their dreams to come true.

Ron Rubin first dreamt of having his own winery while a student at UC Davis. That was back in 1971. But life had other plans for Ron. In 1972, he returned home to Illinois and entered the family business, Central Wholesale Liquor Co., bringing innovation and expansion over his 22 year tenure with the company before moving on to become a top seller of Clearly Canadian Sparking Water.

Yet, he never forgot about his dream.

Forty years later, Ron parlayed his success into the purchase of River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, in the Russian River Valley’s Green Valley, renaming the winery Ron Rubin Winery. He had finally manifested his dream!

Not one to rest on his laurels, Ron threw himself into his new venture, earning himself the honor of Innovator of the Year Award from the North Bay Business Journal in 2016.

And, interestingly, while wine continues to be an important passion, his love of beverages is quite broad. In this regard, Ron was so inspired by the book The Republic of Tea that he made an offer to the authors (and owners of The Republic of Tea), Mel and Patricia Ziegler, to purchase their company back in 1994.

Beyond beverages, Ron’s other guiding passion is philanthropy, giving both his financial support and business acumen to numerous causes including serving on the Board for Sonoma State University’s Wine Business Institute; donating to Wine Spectator Learning Center’s state-of-the-art education complex; funding The Maynard Amerine Wine Label and Menu Collection, at U.C. Davis; and establishing the Ron Rubin Winery TRAINED FOR “SAVING LIVES” program.

This latter program was launched in 2017 in collaboration with the American Red Cross and ZOLL Medical Corporation, with the Ron Rubin Winery covering the cost of supplying qualifying California wineries with a ZOLL AED PLUS (Automated External Defibrillator) unit.

In keeping with his life-long pursuit, Ron’s top wines are part of his Dream Series and include two Chardonnays and a Pinot Noir.

TASTING NOTES
Ron Rubin Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2018, $20.00
A bit shy on the nose, but really lovely on the dry palate with medium acidity, medium+ body and complex flavors of melon, apple, a slight woody note and vanilla, culminating in long length.

Ron Rubin Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2017, $25.00
With berry and cherry aromas on the nose, this beautiful wine offers up good acidity, fresh cherry fruit, slight leafy notes and long length on the palate.


Oh the Places You’ll Go…in a Glass

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My passport expires at the end of this year, but this has definitely not been a year where it is getting much use. In fact, it’s been a full year since my last international trip, with no plans on the horizon. I know that this is temporary, but travel has always been an important part of my life, so it feels strange to be so rooted in one place without the pleasure of exploring new (to me) and exciting places.

Interestingly, I remember a friend telling me once that the number of Americans that hold valid passports is relatively small compared to the overall population. Now, we are all stuck at home, unable to experience the culture and cuisines of the world firsthand.

However, while we are all on lockdown, we can choose to travel from the safety of our dining rooms. We can open up a bottle of wine from nearly anywhere in the world and travel in an instant — no passport or security check needed. You can leave your shoes on, although perhaps you haven’t put on shoes in weeks?

In addition to traveling to other locales, we can also travel in time and space. This past week marked my husband’s 49th birthday, which we celebrated at home in style, setting up a bistro table in the living room, instead of eating at the dining table, which is now shared with the impossi-puzzle (a 2,000 piece jigsaw puzzle of Van Gogh’s A Starry Night). We had a delicious gourmet pantry-raid meal with souvenirs from various trips to Italy (truffle cream, tomato jam, true Balsamic vinegar and other finds), served with vintage Champagne (2008) and a wine from his birth year (1971). It was magical to be transported from the present to the past in a single sip, thinking about what had occurred during those growing seasons.

In addition, I had the wonderful opportunity to taste through a selection of Spanish wines recently, ready for spring. I had been overly optimistic about preparing Spanish cuisine to accompany them and further expand my non-travel horizons, but, no matter, the wines were still enjoyable without a perfect pairing. The Rosado (aka rose) was a great option for a Zoom happy hour, the Godello went well with stir-fry and the Monopole was the perfect picnic partner on a rare visit to the park.

Virgen del Galir Pagos del Galir Godello 2018, Valdeorras, Spain, $21.00
Notes of smoke and spice greet the nose, giving way to melon and minerality on the palate, along with a slight oxidative/yeasty note, likely due to the 4 months aging on the lees, culminating in long length.

Vina Real Rosado 2019, Rioja, Spain, $14.00
A blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo and Viura, this wine is very lovely, redolent of tart, strawberries and watermelon, with lively acidity and freshness on the palate. Long length.

CVNE Monopole 2019, Rioja, Spain, $15.00
This 100% Viura white wine was first produced by CVNE in 1915 and is full-bodied with floral and apple aromas and flavors, along with good length.

For more information on CVNE and Vina Real, please see my previous story.


Drinking Wine in Interesting Times: Hess Select Edition

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As Natalie Merchant, of 10,000 Maniacs, once sang,
“These are Days you’ll remember
Never before and never since
I promise”

I know that I have been fortunate thus far and am choosing to see the beauty amidst the chaos, so I am proceeding to sing the whole song in all its positivity.

Yes, these are interesting, challenging, unprecedented times. We don’t know what will happen. There is so much uncertainly, but I am choosing to live day by day — to celebrate my life and all that I have right now. I realize that this may be much more difficult for others and I send them much love and healing.

All of this is not to say that everything is perfect. I am doing my fair share of stress eating and drinking. Not the best self care plan, but sometimes the creature comforts work.

Despite the stress and overwhelm, I am trying to follow my mantra of “Everything in moderation…including moderation,” and, to that end, am enjoying a glass or two of wine with meals. It brings a sense of normalcy and elevates our home cooking. We have also adopted the practice of ordering in once a week in an effort to support local businesses specifically and the food industry in general.

This week found me enjoying a trio of wines from the Hess Select collection: a white, rose and red. I have previously tasted wines from Hess’ more upscale production and have always been impressed with them and their winemaking. With 40 years of experience, it is not surprising that they are so well made.

While the Hess Select wines are produced on a much larger production scale and offer less complexity than higher end wines, they definitely deliver. They are the perfect go-to wines when you want to pour a food-friendly option that won’t break the bank, require significant thought or seem like an extravagance.

My favorite of the three was the Pinot Noir from California’s Central Coast. It was really lovely and provided a great Pinot Noir experience at a very reasonable Pinot price point ($19 SRP). The nose offered up herbal and mushroom aromas, giving way to a ripe palate of spice, dried herbs and rich cherry and berry flavors, with long length.

With the arrival of Spring, the rose was a welcome ray of sunshine, greeting the nose with watermelon and cotton candy, both of which persisted on the dry, crisp palate. Finally, the full-bodied Pinot Gris presented with ripe melon notes and paired well with our Mexican take-out.

When not eating or drinking, in order to keep busy and step away from the computer, I have taken up painting-by-numbers. This has become a meditative practice for me as well as a creative outlet. May you each find your own way to navigate these days with health, sanity and (perhaps) a glass of wine!

WINES MENTIONED ABOVE
Hess Select Pinot Gris 2019, California, USA, $12.00
Hess Select Rose 2019, California, USA, $12.00
Hess Select Pinot Noir 2018, Central Coast (CA), USA, $19.00

Full Lyrics: These are days

These are days you’ll remember
Never before and never since
I promise
Will the whole world be warm as this
And as you feel it
You’ll know it’s true
That you are blessed and lucky
It’s true that you
Are touched by something
That will grow in you, in you

These are days you’ll remember
When May is rushing over you with desire
To be part of the miracles you see in every hour
You’ll know it’s true that you are blessed and lucky
It’s true that you
Are touched by something
That will grow and bloom in you

These are days
These are the days you might fill with laughter until you break
These days you might feel a shaft of light
Make its way across your face
And when you do you’ll know how it was meant to be
See the signs and know their meaning
It’s true
You’ll know how it was meant to be
Hear the signs and know they’re speaking to you, to you

Source: LyricFind
Songwriters: Buck Robert / Jerome Augustyniak / Natalie Merchant / Natalie A Merchant / Robert Buck
These Are Days lyrics © Words & Music A Div Of Big Deal Music LLC

Drinking Wine in Interesting Times

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While not actually an ancient Chinese curse as it is often attributed to, the phrase “May you live in interesting times,” has been thought to be a negative condition of humankind. Well, it can’t get any more interesting than now. Our lives have been irrevocably changed as we are self-isolating, social distancing and otherwise retreating to our homes for the duration of this quarantine period.

Eric Asimov wrote a poignant piece about overcoming the stigma of drinking alone during this difficult period. I’d like to second that as well as add the need to celebrate and find the beauty in taking pleasure from small things such as the aromas and flavors of food and wine as they tickle your nose and dance on your tongue.

Here in New York City, restaurants are closed, with the exception of take-out and delivery, forcing us to eat at home, hopefully in the company of family and loved ones, but cut off from the usual social environment on-premise dining provides. On the bright side, many of these enterprising establishments are now permitted to deliver wine with your food delivery, helping you to more easily recreate the experience at home.

Others are taking advantage of stocked up kitchens and slowed down schedules to find their inner Julia Child and experiment with new recipes and new ingredients. It is definitely a time to embrace Slow Food.

These are, no doubt, interesting times, but I am trying to find the positive side as I connect more deeply and fully with my partner, reach out to friends and appreciate that I am healthy and safe. In this regard, we are cooking dinner at home, taking the time to sit down together and restoring a sense of normalcy in this topsy-turvy world.

Last night’s meal was a simple home-made pizza, starting with a store-bought cauliflower and corn flour crust, to which I added marinara sauce, mozzarella cheese, mushrooms and bell peppers. But, we elevated our experience by adding a beautiful wine from Merry Edwards Winery.


Merry Edwards herself has lived in interesting times. She first attended UC Berkeley as a graduate student studying nutrition until she was introduced to the idea of studying wine by her new-found friend, Andy Quady. Soon after, she switched her major, graduating with her master’s degree in 1973. But, despite her stellar credentials, she was repeatedly met with gender discrimination as she looked for roles as a winemaker. Thankfully, she was encouraged to persist, securing the position of winemaker at Mount Eden Vineyards and earning a reputation as an outstanding winemaker.

Among her varied accomplishments, Merry was instrumental in getting the industry to stop using lead capsules and propagating UCD clone 37 (also known as the “Merry Edwards selection”). Her struggles also ultimately led to changes at UC Davis and other institutions and opened up the world of winemaking to women.

Falling in love with Sonoma County, Merry relocated in the 1970s and conducted significant clonal research on Pinot Noir, which dramtically changed the way the industry thought about grapes. She eventually founded Merry Edwards Winery in 1997, planting the Meredith Estate vineyard the following year.

Throughout her lengthy career, Merry has continued to be a pioneer and a world-renowned winemaker. Times are interesting for sure, but now is the perfect time to be drinking Merry’s wines.

TASTING NOTES

Merry Edwards Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $36.00
Green, herbal, grassy notes greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is dry, with rich, ripe melon, pink grapefruit and slight pith, with medium+ acidity, full body and long length.

Merry Edwards Winery Pinot Noir 2017, Sonoma Coast (CA), USA, $48.00
On the nose, the wine displays aromas of cherries, cocoa and a hint of herbs, which are joined by bright, sour cherry and a leafy note on the dry palate. High acidity, with medium body and long length.


Merry Edwards Winery Meredith Estate Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00
This complex and concentrated wine offers up beautiful aromas and flavors of spice, earth, wet leaves, cherry and a hint of tomato. It has high acidity, with medium body, light tannins and very long length.

Behind Big Bottles of Bordeaux

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Kicking off Women’s History Month, a group of female wine professionals descended upon New York with big bottles (3-Liters, to be specific) of Bordeaux. These rare, double-magnum sized wines were poured by the glass during the week of March 2-8 at 66 restaurants around the city. The wines and the women showcased the diversity of Bordeaux with dry and sweet whites as well as the more well-known reds.

In conjunction with this state-wide promotion of “Strong Women Make Big Bordeaux Bottles,” members of the press were invited to take a VIP wine tour to visit four restaurants featured in the event to taste the wines and meet some of the women behind the bottles: Rita Jammet, Sophie Solnicki-Thierry, Caroline Perromat and Sylvia Courselle.

Our first stop was Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, where we were introduced to Rita, who is the former owner of the esteemed (and now closed) La Caravelle restaurant. She and her husband began producing wines for the restaurant, launching first a Champagne and then a Bordeaux in 1995, which they continued making after the restaurant closed. Their small production La Caravelle wine is made from grapes sourced within the Listrac-Medoc appellation and is made only in good years. At the wine bar, sommelier André Compeyre paired her La Caravelle 2008 with Beef Bressola Croque with Comte cheese.

Next, we arrived at 701 West at the Edition Hotel in the heart of Times Square. This luxury restaurant and cocktail bar is the first and only fine dining establishment in the neighborhood and was awarded three stars from The New York Times. Among the beautifully appointed dark wood, Sophie Solnicki-Thierry of Chateau Forcas-Hosten provided us with the history of the estate. The property was previously owned by a group of Americans, but has more recently been under new ownership, which has breathed new life into the property. JF Restaurants’ Beverage Director, Amy Racine, matched her Cedres d’Hosten 2012 with braised lamb flatbread and eggplant.

Switching gears from red to white, we headed to O Ya at the ParkSouth Hotel. Here, we heard from Caroline Perromat, of Chateau de Cerons. Perromat and her husband Xavier, took over management of the family estate in 2012, situated within the tiny sub-appellation of Cerons, within the Graves area. Caroline shared that she and her husband now work together at the estate and talked about the complexity and challenges in making a white wine compared to making a red one. Her Chateau de Cerons 2017 was beautifully paired with shima aji sashimi by Chelsea Carrier, Beverage Director for the hotel.

  • La Caravelle
  • Amy Racine and Sophie Solnicki-Thierry
  • Chateau de Cerons
  • Caroline Perromat
  • Sushi at O Ya
  • Sylvie Courselle
  • Bruno Almeida

Last, but certainly not least, we joined Sylvie Courselle, from Chateau Thieuley at Tocqueville. The family-owned estate of Chateau Thieuley was initially in the hands of Francis Courselle, but when his two daughters, Sylvie and Marie, graduated with degrees in agricultural engineering and enology, it was clear that they were ready to take over the business. Today, Sylvie focuses on sales, while Marie manages the technical aspects of winemaking. Tocqueville’s sommelier, Bruno Almeida chose to show the Chateau Thieuley 2015 with gougeres and steak au poivre with bone marrow.
Beyond the female focus, there was much to learn about Bordeaux itself, which has undergone quite a transformation as of late. Today’s Bordeaux has embraced sustainability, with an aggressive agenda to shift toward organic farming, which is particularly difficult in Bordeaux’s maritime climate.

While the emphasis on indigenous grapes remains, there has been a shift from exclusively blended wines to the production of some single variety wines and a stronger promotion of dry whites, which account for 9% of total production. Moreover, the region is keenly aware of the impact of climate change, which, for the most part, has been favorable in terms of more consistent quality from vintage to vintage, but looms large as a potential threat in the future as things (literally) heat up. Accordingly, last year Bordeaux became the first French region to permit new grape varieties to be used in an effort to combat rising temperatures. There are four new red and three new white grape varieties that have been added to the list of authorized grapes.

And, while what happens in the vineyard is extremely important, the people behind the wine are equally important. In this regard, a new generation of winemakers and vineyard managers have come to the forefront of the industry. These professionals have often grown up in the region, but are much more well-traveled with experience beyond Bordeaux than their predecessors were. Consequently, they bring back diverse expertise which informs their winemaking and grape growing. And, as was evident with this campaign – many of those newcomers are female, taking on the roles of owners, winemakers, cellar masters and marketers. A new day has certainly dawned in Bordeaux and it is exciting to see what is happening.

A Discovery of Riches: The Perfect Pairing of Piave DOP and Garda DOC

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This month, we heard reports of a NASA summer intern, Wolf Cukier, who discovered a new planet. Pretty heady stuff! These days, it is challenging to discover anything new under the sun. We live in a world where we’ve been there, done that and, with globalization, there is a homogenization of culture that pervades. Yet, we still treasure unique products and delight in the discovery of new finds.

Twenty years ago, in search of novel and noteworthy products to sell, Lou Di Palo, head of his family’s business, was fortunate to come across a then-unheard of Italian cheese: Piave. Bringing his new-found discovery to America (or at least to the Italian cheese and specialty shop established in 1903 by his great-grandfather, Savino Di Palo), Lou introduced New Yorkers to this wonderful artisan cheese.

Lou Di Palo

Today, Piave DOP Cheese has become a beloved staple of the American market, finding shelf space in major supermarkets as well as in specialty stores. This traditional cheese hails from the Belluno province near the northern tip of the Veneto region, amidst the Dolomite Mountains.

Historically, the area has been known for its dairy cattle since the 1700s, but as the rural economy declined in the wake of industrialization, it was the cooperative dairies that saved the industry during the 1800s. Yet, despite this lengthy history, the Piave cheese as we know it, named for the local Piave River, dates from 1960. And, more recently, the Piave Consorzio was established in 2010 to protect the brand and quality of the cheese, with an average of 300,000 wheels produced annually.

A hard, cooked, cow’s milk cheese, these cylindrical cheeses are made from fresh milk sourced solely from within the mountain province and limited to three types of cow: Italian Brown, Italian Spotted Red and Italian Friesian (aka Holstein). A special culture from the area accounts for the cheese’s characteristic taste, which is further influenced by its aging process, with flavor intensifying over time. As the cheese ages, the curd becomes darker and harder and the rind increases in thickness and color. Due to the fermentation process involved in its production, it has a low lactose content compared to some other cheeses.

With its fresh, medium, aged and extra old age designations, there are several different options available:
–Piave Fresco (20-60 days)
-Piave Mezzano (61-180 days)
-Piave Vecchio (>180 days)
-Piave Vecchio Selezione Oro (more than 12 months)
-Piave Vecchio Riserva (more than 18 months)

Regardless of your preference, the rich, nutty flavors of the cheese pair well with wine. In this regard, a recent press event hosted at Di Palo’s newest venture: C. Di Palo wine bar, showcased the pairing ability of the cheeses with the wines of
Garda Spumante DOC. These wines, named for Lake Garda and produced just 100 miles away from the Piave DOP area, offered up a fresh and effervescent option to cleanse one’s palate in between bites of cheese. Guests at the happy hour were invited to sample the Piave Mezzano and Piave Vecchio Selezione Oro in their unadulterated, delicious form, as well as a range of dishes prepared by Di Palo’s chef, utilizing both the cheeses and the wines in his recipes.

As Italy’s largest lake, Lake Garda splits its regional allegiance down the middle, with Lombardy to the west and the Veneto to the east. Here, drying breezes and the moderating influence of the lake permit the grapes to ripen sufficiently, while maintaining their bright acidity.

Established in 1996, the corresponding Garda DOC wine area encompasses the cities of Brescia, Mantua, Verona and is home to 10 appellations situated at the southern curve of the lake. It overlaps with other appellations, including the more well-known appellations (aka denominations) of Lugana, Custoza, Valpolicella, Bardolino, Soave and Valdadige.

Although the denomination permits the production of whites, rosés and reds, the core production centers on sparkling wines with 7 million bottles produced annually, with an estimated production increase to 20 million bottles in the next few years. These sparkling (aka spumante) wines may be made using either the Traditional (that used in Champagne) or Charmat (used in Prosecco production) Methods, depending upon the individual producer’s personal preferences. The white Garda DOC Spumante may use Garganega, Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano or Chardonnay, while the Rosé Garda DOC Spumante is produced from Corvina, Rondinella, Pinot Nero or Merlot. The wines range from Brut Nature (no sweetness) to Demi-Sec (dessert style) wines.

With the luscious cheese dishes served alongside the fragrant sparkling wines, it was a perfect evening of food and wine pairings. All in all, a delicious discovery and an embarrassment of riches!

C. Di Palo wine bar with its meticulous finishes. The beautifully restored sequoia wood on the bar and walls comes from a reclaimed water tower.

Looking for Affordable Burgundy Bottles? Look to Elden Selections for holiday pours and gifts.

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I recently taught a wine class for the IWAGY wine club in Poughkeepsie, NY titled, “Affordable Southern Burgundy: Great Wines that Won’t Break the Bank.” While the presentation was primarily designed to introduce the audience to the lesser-known Burgundian districts of the Macon and the Cote Chalonnaise, they were eager to know about affordability.

Why? Well, it should come as no surprise to ardent wine lovers that Burgundy is often price prohibitive. As Ethan Fixell wrote in “The Hidden (Affordable) Gems of Burgundy” (1/2/2018), “There’s no gentle way to put this: Burgundy has become stupidly expensive.” And, in his NY Times article, “The Value of Burgundy, Regardless of the Price,” (May 9, 2019), Eric Asimov reinforced this sentiment, saying, “Speaking generally, Burgundy is nowadays the most coveted wine on the planet.[,]” citing the small production capacity and further noting, “The prices of Burgundy have shot upward in the last 20 years, to the point where the best wines are far beyond the means of most people.”

Asimov’s claims are backed by numbers: a Grand Cru Vineyard in the Cote d’Or that was valued at 7 million Euros in 2008 had jumped to 14 million Euros in 2018. And regional vineyards, though much cheaper (70,500 Euros/ha in 2017) are still not a bargain.

These exorbitant real estate prices, coupled with scant quantities – Burgundy production accounts for only 8.6% of all French AOP (quality) wine, 4.1% of all French production overall and only 0.6% of world production – means that it is challenging to find reasonably priced wines from the region. (Source: Vins de Bourgogne)

Burgundy has been producing wine for centuries, with its vignerons honing their craft and truly understanding the nuances of the region’s soils, climate and vineyards. Principally planted to Chardonnay (51%) and Pinot Noir (41%), these wines have become the benchmark for all others of these varieties and, not surprisingly, are highly regarded and sought after.

Yet, despite the dire outlook on overall affordability, it is possible to find more reasonably priced Burgundian wines if you know where to look. One place to check out is online e-tailer, Elden Selections. Founded in 1992 by Eleanor Garvin and Dennis Sherman, expats who have lived and worked in Burgundy for over 30 years, Elden Selections is a direct-to-consumer wine store focused almost exclusively on Burgundy. As such, it is unique in the U.S. and, equally important, they provide a wide range of Burgundian bottles from various appellations and price points within the region.

Elden offers a large selection of “everyday Burgundy” under $40.00 featuring regional and village level wines as well as those from smaller, hard to find appellations such as Irancy. And, in keeping with their desire to satisfy wine-drinking consumers, not wine collectors, the top priced wine is $300; not cheap by any means, but definitely more palatable than the staggering $1,500 or more per bottle that some rare wines can fetch.

Moreover, the wines are sourced from small quantity, minimal-intervention, farmer-made producers, rather than stocking wines from the large negociants. Having lived in the region for years, Eleanor and Dennis have strong relationships with the producers, tasting the wines multiple times to ensure quality.

Further, their site is easy to navigate, packed with educational information about the wines and their producers and permits consumers to purchase as few as one or as many wines as they wish. Case orders are shipped free of charge. Plus, they tout a no-questions-asked return policy (though, to date, no one has exercised this option).

Now is a great time to pick up a mixed case of Burgundy wines to serve with holiday dinners or to give as gifts.

Michelin Guide Takes on Full Ownership of Parker’s Wine Advocate

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At a press conference for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, wherein they announced that Michelin Guide had upped its stake in the wine publication to full ownership, we were introduced to ten discoveries of the year from each of the magazine’s wine reviewers.

A South African Chardonnay had been chosen by Anthony Mueller (who focuses on South Africa and Washington State) for its precision and focus as well as the maverick behind the wine ‘s Lismore label, Samantha O’Keefe. He noted that the wine’s characteristics harken back to the grape’s Burgundian roots.

California and Oregon Editor, Erin Brooks, offered up a California Chardonnay from Mikey Giugni, owner and winemaker of Scar of the Sea. I was impressed by the youthful exuberance of Mikey as well as the depth of his wine. The 32-year old engineer turned winemaker uses old, neutral oak for his wines, resulting in an integrated wine, with a richness and roundness on the palate.

Editor-in-Chief, Lisa Perrotti-Brown, wanted remind readers that St. Emilion is capable of delivering elegance and finesse with her choice of Poesia coming into its own after having been purchased in 2013 by Helene Garcin-Leveque and her husband, Patrice. The wine is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc and provides floral, earth and mineral character on the nose and palate.

It was lovely to taste the Domaines Lupier La Dama, the discovery from reviewer Luis Gutierrez. And, interesting and fun to meet the winery’s owner, Elisa Ucar, who seemed familiar (and which I later confirmed), I had met when I visited Navarra back in 2011. A beautiful Austrian Riesling and elegant Champagne rounded out the tasting discoveries for me.

Established in 1978 by Robert Parker as a bi-monthly newsletter, with only himself as the wine reviewer, the Wine Advocate has grown significantly in the past 41 years, with 10 reviewers, 400,000 wine reviews and generating 30,000 new reviews annually. This recent acquisition by Michelin brings together enology and gastronomy and seeks to raise the global presence of the Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate brand, with an emphasis on emerging wine markets and an enlarged digital presence. It will be interesting to see what happens with this next chapter of this storied wine review publication.

LIST of WINES
Lismore Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2017, Western Cape, South Africa, $45.00
94 points

Scar of the Sea Chardonnay Seven Leagues 2017, Santa Maria Valley (CA), USA, $37.00
93 points

Chateau Poesia 2016, Saint Emilion, Bordeaux, France, $39.00
94 points

Domaines Lupier La Dama 2015, Navarra, Spain, $43.00
96 points

Martin Muthenthaler Riesling Viesslinger Stern 2017, Wachau, Austria, $48.00
Score not yet published

Ulysse Collin Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Roises NV, Champagne, France, $146.00
98 points

NB: Wines are listed in the order mentioned in the article; scores are from the respective editor.

Rediscovering Harveys Bristol Cream

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I have been blessed to have a wide range of wonderful wines grace my glass lately, reflecting the diverse array of wines in the world. One wine that particularly stood out is Harvey’s Bristol Cream Sherry.

I first enjoyed a glass of this medium-sweet Sherry while having high tea at the Empress Hotel on Victoria Island off the coast of Vancouver. It was a lovely treat and added to the experience, but not something I think about often. But the opportunity to renew my acquaintance with the class was welcomed as I discovered its equal affinity for cheese and chocolate.

While the name might be confusing, the reference to “cream” is simply based on the wine’s full-bodied, creaminess; it is, rather, a Sherry, not a cream liquor. The wine was first developed in 1882, blending four different styles of Sherry, which were aged from 3 to 20 years in a solera (a fractional-aging system).

This classic wine has recently received a make-over, sporting a new label that is not only modern in design, but also turns blue when the wine is properly (50-55oF) chilled. At 17.5% alcohol by volume, which is typical for this style of fortified (i.e. Sherry, Port) wine, it is something that should be drunk in smaller quantities than non-fortified wines. However, an opened bottle will easily last for up to a month if kept in the refrigerator

This is a great wine to serve for holiday gatherings, pairing well with pumpkin pie and holiday cookies as well as with salty/savory foods such as unctuous cheeses and charcuterie platters.

TASTING NOTE
Harveys Bristol Cream Sherry, Jerez, Spain, $24.99
Deep amber in color, this wine offers up aromas of dried apricots, spice, candied orange, honey and a hint of nuttiness, all of which persist on the medium-sweet, yet balanced, full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.

Cultural Connections and the Art of Wine and Food

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I was first introduced to the new line of Ferzo wines from Codice Citra back in May. Produced from the estate-grown fruit from a collaboration of family-owned vineyards within the Chieti province of Italy’s Abruzzo region, these wines offer up great taste and value.

Specifically, the Ferzo name refers to “patches of fabric stitched together to create a sail,” and symbolizes the piecing together of numerous plots of vineyards, within the southern part of the Abruzzo region. 

The Codice Citra cooperative was founded in 1973 and focuses on local grapes such as the well-known Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo to more esoteric varieties. In addition to the Ferzo line, which made its debut into the U.S. market earlier this year, the coop’s portfolio includes three other ranges of wines (Citra, Caroso and Las Vitae.

In an effort to introduce more members of the press to this new set of wines, the winery’s importer, Winebow, hosted an unusual event at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Event guests were shepherded around the museum by Angelis Nannos of In Food We Trust, stopping at various works of art around the historic and vast buildings of the esteemed institution, all of which harkened back to humankind’s connection to food and beverages.

First on the “menu” was pickling during which Angelis regaled us of the story of St. Nicholas of Myra who saved three boys from being drowned in a pickling vat, one of the most ancient ways of preserving food that spans numerous cultures  such as Korean kimchee and Jewish pickles.

From there, we headed to the alabaster reliefs of the Assyrian Royal Court, which recount a dinner party held for 69,000+ guests! Meanwhile, the Tomb of Mektre showcased the everyday activities of ancient Egypt including baking.

We learned about New York City’s long association with oysters as illustrated by a stunning Oyster Plate from the Union Porcelain Works and then completed our tour in front of Edward Hopper’s Tables for Ladies. This painting recalls the period of history when nice women were not permitted to dine alone until some entrepreneurial restaurateurs created women-only dining establishments, which offered “Tables for Ladies.” Here, unaccompanied women could safely enjoy a meal without tarnishing their reputations. Painted during the Depression, the painting also tells the story of shows of abundance contrasted with the stark reality of the scarcity of food during this time period.

At the conclusion of our jaunt through the museum, we headed upstairs to the dining room to enjoy some actual food and wine. Among the Ferzo line, there are three whites produced from  20 year old vines  hand picked  indigenous varieties, namely: Pecorino, Cococcioloa and Passerina. These three wines are all fermented in stainless steel, ensuring that the wines are fresh and fruit forward without any oak influence. A rosato (aka rose) and a Montepulciano d’Abuzzo round out the range.

Most recently, with its emphasis on Abruzzo’s viticultural history and a strong commitment to high quality wine, Codice Citra has brought on winemaker, Ricardo Cotarella as executive enologist and partnered with Leonardo LoCascio Selections, as its exclusive U.S. importer.

TASTING NOTES
Ferzo Passerina 2017, Terre di Chieti IGT, Abruzzo, Italy, $26.00
The ancient variety of Passerina is not well known, but is on the path to rediscovery, given recent interest in the grape in Abuzzo, Umbria and Le Marche (where it is produced within the Offida DOCG). This wine has a beautiful floral and fruity nose, with flavors of white flowers, juicy pineapple, pear and tropical fruit. On the palate, it offers up bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Ferzo Pecorino 2017, Terre di Chieti IGT, Abruzzo, Italy, $26.00
With the same name as the Italian word for sheep, it is now thought that this grape gets its name from the shepherds, not the sheep, who were eating these grapes when out in the mountains. Almonds, minerality and hint of pear greet the nose. On the palate, this wine is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium+ body and is quite angular. Flavors of nuts and minerals dominate, giving the wine weight and depth, before culminating in long length.

Ferzo Cococciola 2017, Terre di Chieti IGT, Abruzzo, Italy, $26.00
The Cococciola grape is cultivated in both Abruzzo and Puglia and is frequently compared to Sauvignon Blanc. This wine offered up more fruit character than the Pecorino, with more pronounced melon, pear and citrus, a hint of waxiness on the palate and just a slight note of nuttiness. It displays nice body, good depth and long length.

Caroso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2015 , Abruzzo, Italy, $30.00
Not to be confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, this wine is produced from the Montepulciano grape, grown in the Abruzzo region. The wine was beautiful, with a rich and  fragrant nose of plums, with good acidity, integrated oak, soft tannins and long length.