For most of us, this moment marks an anniversary of sorts as we acknowledge that one year ago, we were put on lockdown and admonished to stay home and stay distant.
But, as we welcomed in the Spring Equinox and the increase in daylight and warmth that it brings, many of us found ourselves reveling in the outdoors as a way to stay sane and connected with friends and loved ones.
In fact, as a self-proclaimed Picnic Princess (hey, don’t judge, if Elon Musk can call himself TechnoKing…), I held my first pandemic picnic on March 27, 2020, which was followed by many more over the next half year. Of course, nearly all of these picnics involved wine (and admittedly some were solely about wine), which I was happy to share with friends.
However, if your friends and family don’t have the same taste in wine as you or abstain from alcohol or you simply want your own single-serve bottle, the folks at Beronia have got you covered this season.
Bodegas Beronia, a highly regarded wine producer in Rioja, Spain, was founded in 1973 by a group of friends (see article) and has always been about a love for gastronomy and companionship – two very important ingredients for a great picnic!
In recognition of the way the world is right now, Beronia has just released its Crianza 2017 in a 375ml bottle for the very first time. This half-size container of wine is a great option for picnics, but also works just as well indoors at the dining table when you drink alone or want to drink less. Of course, they also produce the wine in its regular 750ml bottle for when you want to share it with others.
Bodegas Beronia Crianza 2017, Rioja, Spain, SRP: $7.99 (375ml); $14.99 (750ml) A blend of 94% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha and 1% Mazuelo, this wine offers up aromas of black fruit, strawberry, a hint of oak and leafiness. The dry palate presents juicy, ripe strawberry fruit with medium+ acidity, medium body and long length.
This continues to be a challenging time for everyone as we still must deal with limited opportunities for interaction and celebration in an effort to stay safe and socially distant. Yet, when there are milestones to be celebrated, we very much want to share these experiences with friends, family and other important people.
I am all too aware of this dilemma having reached the age of 50 back in October. For years, I had been planning a big birthday party with a big wheel of Parmesan Reggiano and lots of cake. But, the universe had other plans and so I maneuvered the vagaries of a pandemic party, respecting people’s various comfort levels and hosted two mini-parties at rooftop (read outdoor) venues in New York City. Thanks to the generosity of my husband and dear friends, it never felt like a Plan B, despite being just that.
So, with this in mind, I was delighted to receive an invitation to join Sokol Blosser winery in recognition of their 50th anniversary. I am sure that the Sokol Blosser family had been planning this momentous occasion for some time and that hosting a “party” on Zoom was never on their dream list, but it was what was available to them this month.
I was particularly eager to attend since in the Before Times I had had the distinct pleasure of meeting Alison Sokol Blosser on two occasions. The first was an intimate dinner at Morimoto in April 2015 and the other was in April 2019 at Astor Wines for the debut of Second Generation 2GV Pinot Noir Cuvée, an event she attended with her brother, Alex. Plus, I have always been a fan of their wines and their pioneering spirit, with them having been the among the founding families to grow grapes and make wine in Oregon.
My enthusiasm was well rewarded. Despite the e-nature of the event, it was filled with warmth, funny stories, light-hearted jabs and an overall sense of love and passion for each other and for the winery that has come to mean so much to the Sokol Blosser family.
In the true spirit of celebration, the event kicked off with a toast to the family and winery with a glass of their Bluebird Cuvée sparkling wine.
Bluebird Cuvée Sparkling 2018, Oregon/Washington (US),SRP $32 This blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Muscat, Muller-Thurgau and Riesling is comprised of fruit sourced from both Washington state and Oregon (45%-55% split). It has a lovely, creamy mouthfeel, persistent perlage, with fresh fruit aromas, a hint of peach and peach pit, with long length.
Then, we turned our attention to hearing from Bill, Susan, Alison and Alex. Starting at the very beginning, Bill shared that since he had been a young kid, he had always wanted to be a farmer and grow things. After college, he travelled to France, gaining exposure to wine and vineyards, which opened up his eyes. “It was a whole new thing,” he explained, which instilled a budding interest in wine.
This newly acquired passion dovetailed perfectly with U.S. history as the mid-60s found the whole wine industry coming alive amidst the post-prohibition era. By accident (although some may say there are no accidents in life), Bill met some guys who had studied at UC Davis and had made the decision that the best place to grow Pinot Noir in the U.S. was the Willamette Valley in Oregon since it was the closest to Burgundy as they could find. He noted that, “It’s way warmer today, but still has a good climate.”
Of course, this wasn’t just any group of guys, but David Lett, Dick Erath and Charles Coury, all of whom “got the whole thing going with their pioneer, crazy attitude.”
“Let’s do it!” said Bill. And the rest, as they say, is history.
Alison questioned her mom’s reaction to such a plan and Susan explained that “I should be a good wife and I didn’t have better ideas…” so she agreed to the plan. Interestingly, once assembled, the group consisted entirely of couples, but as Susan revealed, while the guys took the front-facing roles, the women were really important too. For her part, she describes herself as more a vineyard person than a winemaker.
As Susan and Bill shared various stories of their early days, they advised that one of the first challenges was understanding how to grow grapes in Oregon. All of the available books were written for the Central Valley (in California), which has a considerably different climate and topography than Willamette. Instead, they looked to European publications for guidance and thankfully had enough foreign language skills among their pioneering group to translate this much needed knowledge. As Bill acknowledged, “It was a classic bootstrap operation.” In the end, they chose to import Dijon Pinot Noir clones to get started and planted their first vines in 1972.
Then, as Susan related, “We had to sell it.” Yet, the world was not ready for Oregon Pinot Noir in the 1970s. Among their various efforts, they brought a map to show potential customers where Oregon was located. It took decades (2000s) before top restaurants sought out Oregon Pinots for their wine lists. Moreover, Susan recognized that the Drouhin family’s arrival in the Valley was very key in gaining much needed support and a seal of approval.
Another important visitor to Willamette was Madame Bize-Leroy of Domaine Romanée-Conti, who did a tasting with Bill during his first vintage (1977). She pronounced “There is potential here.” But even she shared that making wine and selling it is never easy, despite being from such a vaunted estate, noting that, “Every year throws a new curve.” That visit has stayed with him.
But, in spirt of the difficulties they faced, both Bill and Susan were quick to assert that they have no regrets.
In 2008, Susan and Bill handed the baton to Alex and Alison as the second generation. The two became Co-Presidents. As the conversation shifted from the winery’s founding, Alex and Alison regaled the attendees with tales from their childhood. As Alex explained, growing up, he received no allowance. Rather, he had to work in the winery and vineyard to get pocket money. He started at about age 11, learning very early on that “making wine is primarily cleaning.”
When taking over the reins from their parents, Alex and Alison thought hard about what they wanted for the winery in its next chapter. They set their sights on continuing to raise the quality and also on becoming known as a sparkling wine house. While Bill agreed that Oregon is good for sparkling due to the climate, he further reflected that despite this recognition, he didn’t have the nerve to do sparkling wine since any little flaw shows up. So, it was up to the next generation to take on this challenge. Alison added that their first promise to each other was that they were not going to kill each other.
Susan’s memory is slightly different from that of her offspring. She recalls that they had such wonderful, grandiose plans for expansion and then the financial market had other plans. In the wake of the Lehman Brothers collapse and the recession, Alison and Alex were forced to sell wine just to keep in the business. But, Susan feels that this was a good lesson for the two to learn early on in their leadership.
In keeping with their desire to produce sparkling wine, they started with a Brut Rosé in 2010, a cool vintage, which is conducive to the production of sparkling wine. In 2015, they decided to make a Brut Cuvée, which was inspired by their Evolution White blend. It is deliberately produced with a short tirage of less than one year, which keeps the autolysis from imparting too strong of a yeasty, bread character to the wine. Rather, the goal is a purity of fresh fruit. Today, with this goal achieved, Alex describes Sokol Blosser as a reductionist house as opposed to one with an oxidative style.
Beyond his role as Co-President, Alex has been the winemaker since 2012, which was a good vintage. However, he believes that “It’s the vintages that try you, push you that are the ones that you from the most and are most connected to.”
That being said, Alex boasted of their good planning in having their anniversary coincident with a great vintage. 2018 was that vintage replete with ripeness, tannins and acidity as well as that unique combination of both quality and quantity (one usually gets one or the other).
As we tasted the other wines, Alex explained that all of their wines are made the same; the difference is in where the grapes come from. Located in the Dundee Hills AVA, today Sokol Blosser owns 88 acres, which are certified organic. They lease an additional 18 acres in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA (which are also certified organic).
Dundee Hills 2018 Estate Pinot Noir, SRP $42 As their entry level Pinot Noir, this is a blend of all of their various blocks. It offers up a beautiful nose of cherries, with a dry palate, medium+ to high acidity, medium body, dusty tannins, ripe cherries, slight oak, and an earthy undercurrent, culminating in long length.
Old Vineyard Block Estate Pinot Noir 2018, Dundee Hills (OR), USA, SRP $60 Produced as a tribute to Mom and Dad, this wine sports a special, retro label from the 1970s. The original wines in this vineyard block are gone due to phylloxera, but they were replanted in the 1990s, maintaining the original composition. This wine has more density than the Dundee Hills Pinot, with medium+ to full body, slight spice, less earthy notes and more pronounced cherry and berry flavors. It needs time to develop.
Goosepen Block Estate Pinot Noir 2011, Dundee Hills (OR), USA, $110 (current); $80 upon release, 200 cases produced This wine is redolent of floral, cherry and herbal aromas. The elegant palate provides bright acidity, medium body, lovely tannins, cherries, slight oak and herbs, with very long length.
The winery was generous in sharing this library wine with the event participants and apparently there had been much debate on what to send. Finally, it was agreed that this wine, hailing from the cool 2011 vintage would be a good choice thanks to its bracing acidity, which provided both structure and the ability to keep the wine together with age.
With grapes sourced from one of the estate’s top blocks, these approximately three acres got their name when Susan decided to fence off a few acres of Riesling and have some geese do the weeding. Unfortunately, it turned out that these geese weren’t interested in the job. Accordingly, the family kept one pair of geese and the others found themselves in the Sokol Blosser freezer, while the feathers found their way into some very fluffy pillows.
Image courtesy of the winery.
Looking ahead to the next 50 years, Alison and Alex are focused on a continued commitment to quality along with a focus on innovation. The winery has begun to offer box wines and has made a substantial investment in a mechanical harvester, noting that the technology has come so far; there is no loss of quality despite the mechanization. Further, as a Certified B Corporation since 2015, they also maintain a deft balance between purpose and profit.
Of course, more immediately, they are simply excited to open the tasting room again as we shift to a post-vaccine world.
Finally, there are eight members of the third
generation, so watch this space…
As Alison reflected, they have succeeded through a combination of miracles and hard work, which has been an astounding experience. And, as Alex quipped at the end, “Mom and Dad, you done good!”
Cantina Valle Isarco celebrates its 60th anniversary this year, but the winery is not resting on its laurels. Far from it. Rather, while it acknowledges its roots, it is looking to the future to further increase its quality. Among these efforts, the Cantina has recently revamped its logo and branding and hired a new consulting enologist.
Representing 135 families, this highly regarded cooperative is situated in the Valle Isarco, a subzone of Alto Adige and Italy’s northernmost winegrowing area. Here, in the heart of the Dolomites, vines are grown at 300-1,000 meters above sea level, on very steep slopes with a 60% gradient. Consequently, grapes must be hand harvested, resulting in a very labor-intensive production process.
Moreover, the high altitudes offer up very cold nights and cold winds, along with a wide diurnal variation, further adding to the challenges of harvest, which takes place from September through mid-October. This is not an easy task. But the benefits to such intense growing conditions are evident in the style of wines produced. Specifically, the small berry size (a consequence of the high altitude) yields wines with high concentration of flavor, while the cool climate maintains good acidity and salinity in the grapes. Overall, the wines are fresh, clean and clear with an acidic character. And this bright acidity remains even with aging.
As a very small wine region, Alto Adige accounts for only 0.8% of all Italian wine production with a total of 400 hectares planted. Of those, Cantina Valle Isarco is responsible for 150 of them. Most of these are small vineyards surrounding the homes of the individual members. While the vineyards are not certified organic, it is here that the children play in their respective backyards, running around through the vines. Accordingly, intervention is minimal and viticulture is as sustainable as possible.
Their vineyards are planted to 14 different grape varieties: 10 white varieties, totaling 98% of the winery’s production with the remaining 2% planted to four red varieties. Not surprisingly, given the region’s proximity to Germany and Austria, Alto Adige’s viticulture is heavily influenced by these two countries, especially in grape varieties grown, such as Kerner and Sylvaner. From those 14 varieties, Cantina Valle Isarco produces 28 different wines, among its Classic (entry level) and Premium ranges.
The premium wines include Aristos and Sabiona. More specifically, while Hannes Munter, resident enologist, manages all of the producers, for the Aristos wines, he pays closer attention with the selection. The Sabiona wines are produced from two single vineyards planted within the walls of the local monastery.
Among its past accomplishments, Cantina Valle Isarco rebuilt its winery 15 years ago, making considerable investments in technology and its wines continue to garner accolades (its Aristos Kerner was named a Top 20 Wine of the Year in 2016 by Decanter magazine). Yet, the young team, which includes Munter and General Manager, Armin Gratl, knew that they wanted to make significant splash as they celebrated this important milestone.
The new logo, which was launched with the 2020 vintage, gives more focus to the name of the valley with mountain and diamond imagery, and the new labels are clearer and easier to read. But, the more innovative move was the winery’s decision to collaborate with noted enologist Ricardo Cotarella. Gratl explained their choice in Cotarella, explaining that they wanted to bring in someone with an outside view and lots of experience, as well as someone with the same ambitions they have for the region.
When asked why he was interested in taking on this new
consultancy, Ricardo Cotarella relished the opportunity presented to him,
citing both his excitement at getting to work in the region for the first time and
the challenge of improving the quality of wines that are already very good. He
also looked forward to partnering with Armin and Hannes.
Moreover, he was also fascinated by the idea of working with Kerner, a grape he had only previously experienced in Japan. He admitted that, “A winemaker shouldn’t say ‘This is my favorite wine;” only the customer can make that declaration. But, he and Hannes really like the Kerner 2020 and, in fact, Cotarella confessed “I am falling in love with this varietal.”
A virtual seminar was held with members of the press and trade in mid-February, featuring six wines. For the tasting, participants were presented with a study in two grapes, exploring different vintages, selections and microclimates. Starting with the Classic Kerner, we next tasted the Aristos and Sabiona versions before turning our attention to the analogous Sylvaner wines.
Interestingly, both of the Sabiona wines and the Aristos Sylvaner had spent some time in tonneaux, but it was with a light-handed approach to oak that added depth and elegance rather than an overtly woody flavor to the wines. In this regard, Cotarella made it clear that he uses wood in, not on the wine. Additionally, it depends on the vintage, adding that, “Oak is an opportunity, not a rule,” and he only uses it when the wine deserves the oak. With his “crush” on the Kerner 2020, he expects to treat the Aristos and Sabiona Kerner 2020 wines to some oak.
So what else does the future hold? Cotarella acknowledged that the wines of Cantina Valle Isaro from yesterday were excellent; its wines from today are excellent. As he mused on next steps, he noted that he was very optimistic. “We have everything – the climate, soil, people, grapes and technology in the winery,” he said. “I am not sure what the improvement will be, but be patient, this is my promise.” These are already extraordinary wines; I am sure our patience will be well rewarded.
Cantina Valle Isarco Kerner 2020, Alto Adige, Italy OverallImpressions : Fresh, exotic spice and good fruit. Tasting Note: Dry, with high acidity, medium body, aromas and flavors of apple, salinity, minerality, floral, plum, spice and very long length.
Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Kerner 2019, Alto Adige, Italy Overall Impressions: A richer expression of the variety with fuller body. Tasting Note: An intense nose of apple, quince, pear, with full body, high acidity and very long length.
Cantina Valle Isarco Sabiona Kerner 2018, Alto Adige, Italy OverallImpressions: An elegant and complex wine, with careful use of oak. Tasting Note: Light oak and smoke on nose, with bright acidity, medium+ body, very mineral, with richness and long length.
Cantina Valle Isarco Sylvaner 2020, Alto Adige, Italy OverallImpressions: Fresh and clean with a purity of fruit. Tasting Note: Aromas of rich fruit, quince, green apple greet the nose joined by minerality and freshness on the medium-bodied palate with long length.
Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Sylvaner 2019, Alto Adige, Italy Overall Impressions: Richer, with more concentration and complexity. Tasting Note: Less ripe fruit on nose, with peaches, minerality and salinity, along with high acidity, medium+ body and long length.
Cantina Valle Isarco Sabiona Sylvaner 2018, Alto Adige, Italy Overall Impressions: Elegant depth and concentration due to oak and age. Tasting Note: Showing nice development, with high acidity and medium+ body and notes of apricot, salinity and a candied note in finish, culminating in very long length.
Winery, vineyard and principal images courtesy of Cantina Valle Isarco.
I recently wrote about the wide range of wines from Argentina, but, just over the Andes Mountains, Chile is an equally important wine producing country. And, I had the pleasure of being re-introduced to the Grey Label of Ventisquero Wine Estates.
I first became acquainted with this brand (formerly known as Viña Ventisquero) many years ago when I dined in New York City with winemaker John Duval who shared an interesting story about his initial hire. As he explained, one morning (or more correctly, the middle of the night), he received a phone call at 3:00 AM. While most calls made at that hour mean the delivery of bad new, in this case, it was simply a matter of mistaken time zones.
Awoken at that early hour, the Aussie winemaker thanked the caller for the job offer and went back to sleep. Fortunately, he continued the conversation when he was more alert, eventually accepting the role of consulting winemaker for Ventisquero.
John came to this roll when, after overseeing 29 vintages at Penfolds as Chief Winemaker, he was looking for his next venture. While he was open to various options, he knew that he didn’t want to be on a plane all of the time; he wanted to stay married and see his family. Accordingly, he started a family wine project, making wine under his own label (John Duval Wines) at home in the Barossa Valley, but the opportunity to consult for Ventisquero was very intriguing, so he signed on to the team in 2004.
Ventisquero itself was established in 1998 in the Maipo Valley in Chile, before branching out to the Casablanca, Colchagua, Leyda and Huasco Valleys. The brand encourages its winemakers to pursue an innovative spirit that combines curiosity, creative freedom, a willingness to take risks, and an intense exploration of the senses. Accordingly, its winemakers are given the latitude to experiment and challenge the established way of doing things.
For John, the Ventisquero project was especially appealing given the company’s approach to innovation with precision soil mapping and terroir-focused replanting. Moreover, the company practices sustainability throughout the entire process. Overall, the partnership has provided both parties with a good balance because John is the Syrah/Shiraz expert while his colleague Felipe Tosso, who celebrated his 20th year at Ventisquero in 2020, is the go-to guy for Carménère. The two collaborate on a range of wines, particularly at the premium level.
As a result, John’s personal portfolio is an unusual one for a consulting winemaker since he must complete two vintages in the same hemisphere. He travels to Chile twice each year, which generally works out well since Chile’s cooler climate means that the grapes ripen several weeks later than those in Australia.
At the company’s entry-level, its Ventisquero Grey offers single-block wines, produced as both blends and varietally-labeled wines. In this regard, Garnacha, Cariñena, Mataro, Syrah and Merlot are grown in the La Robleria vineyard in Apalta, while the Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère are sourced from blocks within the Trinidad Vineyard in Maipo Valley region. Similarly, the Las Terrazas vineyard is in the Leyda Valley, only 4 miles from the cold Pacific Ocean, serving as the perfect climate for cultivating Pinot Noir. In crafting these wines, the winemakers hope to enable the unique terroir of each respective vineyard to come through in the glass, while also highlighting the diversity of Chile’s wine regions.
TASTING NOTES
Ventisquero Single Block Grey Garnacha, Carinena, Mataro 2017 Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley, Chile, ~$20.00 This Mediterranean-style blend offers up aromas of fresh raspberries and a slight herbal undercurrent, with a dry palate, with vibrant acidity, light to medium body, fresh berries, and medium+ length.
Ventisquero Single Block Grey Pinot Noir 2017 Ledya Valley, Las Terrazas Vineyard, Leyda Valley, Chile, ~$20.00 With aromas of herbs, earth and a hint of red fruit, this dry wine has medium+ acidity; medium body; and flavors of fresh and dried herbs, earthy, dark cherry, culminating in long length.
Ventisquero Single Block Grey Trinidad Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Maipo Valley, Chile, ~$20.00 Aromas of blackberry, black cherry, oak and vanilla greet the nose, which are repeated on the dry, full-bodied palate along with slight spice notes and an oak undercurrent in finish, with long length.
Viña Ventisquero Single Block Grey Carménère 2017 Trinidad Vineyard, Maipo Valley, Chile, ~$20.00 Dried and fresh herbs, smoke and spice are joined with dark red fruits – black cherry and raspberry – on the nose and palate, with firm tannins, full body and very long length.
NB: The latter two images were taken from the winery’s website.
Above: Piattelli Vineyards Cafayate, image courtesy of the winery.
While winter is upon us in the Northern Hemisphere, those in the Southern Hemisphere are basking in the glow of summer. And, with the reverse seasons, grapes are presently growing in wine producing countries such as Chile and Argentina, which will eventually become the first vintage of the 2021 calendar year. These two countries are both important and unique for their respective climates, terrain and growing conditions, which lend themselves to producing world-class wines.
I recently had the opportunity to taste through a selection of wines from Argentina, which provided me with a broad diversity of drinking options. They spanned the gamut from north to south, with a Torrontes from the high altitude (5600ft) of Cafayate, a Malbec blend from Mendoza’s Uco Valley and a Pinot Noir from Patagonia, one of the southern-most winemaking regions in the world. This selection of wines reflected the unique and varied climates that make up the wide range of wine growing regions of the country.
Situated in Argentina’s northern-most wine region, Cafayate prides itself as being the highest wine-making region in the world. The dry, arid climate offers up a significant quantity of sunlight, permitting the grapes to ripen fully, while the cool nights retain acidity in the grapes. Among the wineries located here, Piattelli Vineyards was founded in the 1990s. With facilities in two locaations, Alejandro Nesman serves as Piattelli’s Lead Winemaker in Cafayate.
With a much lengthier tenure in the country, Bodega Norton celebrated its 125th anniversary in 2020 (see story). Founded in 1895, the winery was established in Mendoza, Argentina. Named a Top 10 South American winemaker by Decanter magazine, David Bonomi has held the post as Chief Winemaker since 2014, and is only the 3rd winemaker at the winery in the past 50 years, maintaining its heritage and legacy.
Located at the southern tip of South America, in Neuquén, at 39º South Latitude, Familia Schroeder was launched in 2001 by Herman Heinz Teodoro Schroeder, the son of pioneering German immigrants. Working in concert with his children, the family has sought to transform a desert area into vineyards.
TASTING NOTES
Piattelli Vineyards Reserve Torrontés 2019, Cafayate, Argentina, $15.99 Twenty percent of this wine was aged for two months in French oak. On the nose, it offers up aromas of peach and spice, while the refreshing, dry palate shows flavors of nectarine and mango, with medium+ acidity, medium body, and long length.
Familia Schroeder Saurus Select Pinot Noir 2018, Patagonia, Argentina, $18.99 This wine displays notes of cherries, floral and cinnamon on the nose. It has high acidity, with medium body, and notes of cherries, spice, peppery, with hint of cocoa in finish, culminating in long length. Nearly half (40%) of the wine was aged for nine months in new French oak barrels, the balance in stainless steel.
Bodega Norton Lote Negro Unique Edition 2015, Uco Valley Mendoza, Argentina, $38.99 This blend of 65% Malbec and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon leads with aromas of blackbery and blueberry, along with spice and wood. The dry palate, displays medium acidity, full body, dusty tannins, with ripe, elegant fruit and long length. While showing well now, it Ideally needs a few years time in the cellar to age and evolve.
It continues to be a weird year, one which has spilled over into the holiday season as we ushered in Thanksgiving and now await the arrival of the December celebrations. While some people did observe their usual traditions and headed home for the holidays, many took heed and stayed home, gathering around much tinier tables than in years past.
Moreover, we searched for new ways to mark the occasion taking public safety, risk tolerance and other factors into consideration. In this vein, the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade went ahead (sort of) as usual, but with previously taped segments and a lack of crowds.
Similarly, after half a decade of celebrating as a twosome, my husband and I decided to break with our own tradition and welcome a small group of friends (bringing us to a total of 6 people) for the Thanksgiving meal. We planned our menu to incorporate fresh ideas (waffled turkey burger sliders on Hawaiian Dinner Rolls and Mexican Chocolate Spiced Pumpkin Pie) and some old favorites (Butternut Squash Soup and Cranberry-Citrus Chutney), alongside some staples: Brussel Sprouts and Mashed Potatoes.
As we sat down to dinner, we welcomed everyone to the table and dusted off our well-loved tradition of encouraging each guest to share a brag, a gratitude and a desire. We were also delighted to add in a new tradition – choosing American wine for an American holiday. Accordingly, it was a pleasure to share several recently released Merry Edwards’ wines with our assembled guests.
Pinot Noir is always a favorite of mine for Thanksgiving because it is very versatile to pair with the plethora of flavors that permeate the diverse dishes of the holiday. This year was no exception and it was a delight to open up these bottles with our guests who very much enjoyed the delicious indulgence. These wines are similarly suited to other celebratory meals for this same reason.
And, our friend Aleksandra suggested another new tradition, asking each person to list their “firsts” for this year, reframing some of the chaos and confusion the pandemic has wrought on our lives. Among my firsts was making macrons and performing burlesque.
With Thanksgiving in the rearview mirror, it’s time to turn our attention to Chanukah, Kwanza, Christmas and New Year’s, which again will require restraint and resolve as we navigate these times. Yet, we can still enjoy the holidays with good food, good wine and good company, even if the group is smaller than usual.
As the year draws to a close, it is the perfect time to acknowledge all that we are grateful for, while raising a glass in anticipation of better times. Cheers!
TASTNG NOTES
Merry Edwards BUCHER PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00 Named for the Bucher family who founded their dairy here back in 1958, the Bucher Vineyard was initially planted to Pinot in 1997 as part of the family’s initiative to branch out to other industries. The partnership between John and Diane Bucher and Merry and Ken began in 2016 during which Merry selected two hillside blocks to produce this single vineyard wine. These two Butcher blocks total 2.13 acres – essentially just a small spit of land; consequently only 230 cases of this wine are produced. This is the third vintage under this partnership. Aromas of earth, spice, and dried flowers greet the nose. The palate is dry with medium+ body and flavors of black pepper, spice, earth and dried cherries, culminating in long length. We especially enjoyed this one!
Merry Edwards FLAX VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00 Merry has been working with the Flax family since 2004 and has been a strong supporter of this vineyard, expanding the quantity of fruit she purchased as it became available. Her dedication further grew when she made the commitment to take on a long-term lease of the property in 2009. The Flax’ have since sold to Steve and Donna Hicks in 2012, but the relationship continues to this day as the new owners have continued to collaborate with Merry and have also made important improvements such as the installation of pig- and deer-proof fence. Fruit is sourced from a total of 6.9 acres, yielding 720 cases. Fresh floral and berry notes give way to lusher, riper red fruit along with dried and fresh herbs on the palate. The wine offers up bright acidity, medium+ body and long length.
Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $72.00 With 20 planted acres, the Meredith Estate vineyard is the largest property of those featured in this article, resulting in a much larger case production of 1,400. This abandoned apple orchard in the Sebastopol Hills was purchased by Merry in 1996 and planted to Pinot in 1998. They practice sustainable agriculture, with the use of cover crops and other earth-friendly farming approaches. Red and black cherries feature prominently on the nose, with a fruitier profile than the Warren’s Hill, along with notes of wet leaves and an herbal undercurrent. The dry palate provides a decidedly savory note, with medium+ body, high acidity and very long length.
Merry Edwards WARRENS’ HILL PINOT NOIR 2018, Green Valley and Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $66.00 While Merry and Ken have leased this vineyard site since 2009, as the vineyard hit its 20th year, it became evident that replanting was needed. Cuttings from an old vineyard of Lee Martinelli’s were propagated in the nursery and replanted on the site in 2012. The vineyard, formerly planted by Warren Dutton, has now been renamed Warren’s Hill, in memory of Merry’s son, Warren, who passed away in 2006 and had been named in honor of Merry’s friends Warren Dutton and Warren Arnold. Thus, the site’s new name recognizes and honors all three Warrens in Merry’s life. The 5.5 acres produced 440 cases. This wine displays notes of mushroom, herbs, spice, cherry on both the nose and palate with an earthy finish. It offers up bright acidity, medium+ body and long length and was a more elegant expression than the Meredith Estate.
Merry Edwards LATE HARVEST SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $48.00 As a new addition to the Merry Edwards portfolio, this is the first vintage which saw a harvest of Sauvignon Blanc grapes from the Maefield Vineyard, which had been planted in 2015. The vineyard yielded both regularly harvested and late harvest grapes, the latter of which was affected by noble rot and thus permitted the production of this sweet wine. This is not an easy feat in the Russian River Valley, where fog and moisture can easily turn to grey rot instead of the more beneficial botrytis cinera, responsible for creating luscious dessert wines. Not surprisingly, only a small production (250 cases) was made. A pronounced nose of apricots, oranges, flowers with medium sweetness beautifully balanced by high acidity. It is medium+ bodied with flavors of apricot, dried orange, white flowers and long length. It would be lovely paired with custards, fresh fruit and other lighter desserts such as apple pie.
I’ve written about the Pasqua wines previously and have always been impressed with them. This most recent tasting was no exception.
Their latest wine comes with the lengthy, yet catchy, name of Hey French: you could have done this but you didn’t and, more specifically this is “Hey French, 1st Edition.” The mouthful of a name is simply a joke, while also paying homage to French winemakers and their regions who inspire the current generation of the Pasqua family.
The wine is billed as a “super-Bianco” and is a blend of 60% Garganega grapes, with the balance comprised of Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon, all of which were grown in the Veneto. In addition to having been macerated on the skins for about 10 hours prior to fermentation, the other interesting aspect of the wine’s production is that it brings together wines from four different vintages – 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2017 – with future editions to contain a different set of vintages.
And, while the grapes come from an area within the Soave DOC denomination, the fact that this wine breaks the rules precludes it from having that designation on its label. But, as they are trying to create a completely different, non-Soave wine, it really doesn’t matter. Instead, the wine is designated Bianco Veneto IGT and sports a flamboyant label designed by French-Cuban artist, CB Hoyo, in keeping with the light-hearted nature of the wine.
TASTING NOTE “Hey French, 1st Edition”, Bianco Veneto IGT, Italy, $40.00 Dry on the palate with medium+ acidity, the wine presented aromas and flavors of citrus, minerality and tidal pool. It displayed depth and richness, along with a fuller body, making it a good white wine option for the colder, winter months ahead or to pair with heartier food. The wine definitely has aging potential and will likely become more complex and interesting with time.
I used to love trick-or-treating as a kid – between costumes and candy, what more could any child want? Those days are somewhat over – you can still dress up, but folks might look askance if you showed up at their door begging for treats (or maybe not, perhaps your neighbors are more open minded).
In any case, it was with light-hearted fun that the folks from Gonzalez Byass Sherries reached out and offered up the opportunity to do a candy and Sherry pairing in honor of Halloween. They sent out three different Sherries and an assortment of decadent sweets. They say, “Candy is dandy, but liquor is quicker,” but this “food” and wine pairing was the best of both worlds, with the chance to indulge our inner child while indulging in adult beverages.
In anticipation of the holiday, I eagerly opened up the wines and dived into the candy on the day before Halloween. Interestingly, while it has been proposed that all three Sherries would be a match for at least one of the candies, I was surprised at how dry the Gonzalez Byass Alfonso Oloroso was (I hadn’t paid close attention before tasting and presumed that it was a sweet Oloroso; it was not).
I later checked the technical sheet and noticed that the residual sugar* was less than 4 g/l, further confirming the dry character of the wine. Of course, while I didn’t personally enjoy the Oloroso with any of the sugary snacks, everyone has their own, absolutely valid, palate preferences. Moreover, I loved this wine on its own and found it to be a wonderful addition to a tapas-themed dinner the next night.
The Harvey’s Bristol Cream – always one of my favorites – was delicious with the caramel- and nut-infused treats such as the Milky Way, Payday and 100 Grand bars. Meanwhile, the intense Gonzalez Byass Nectar PX paired beautifully with rich chocolates and, most especially, with Reece’s Peanut Butter Cups. I really enjoyed the balance that the candy provided to this super sweet wine.
Although Halloween has come and gone, this tasting exercise is equally applicable to the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday where there will be treats aplenty on the table. I would serve the Oloroso with appetizers, especially dried fruits, nuts, charcuterie and cheeses. The Harvey’s Bristol Cream would be nice with lighter flavored desserts such as apple pie and cheesecake, with the PX being perfect with pecan or pumpkin pies. Or, if you are too full from the meal, you could simply pour a glass of the sweet nectar as you sit back and appreciate all that you are grateful for this year.
TASTING NOTES
Harvey’s Bristol Cream NV DO Jerez, Spain, $20.00 R/S 138 g/l* An historic wine, Harvey’s was established in Bristol, England in 1796 and this wine in particular was first produced in 1882. Creamier in style than their other Bristol Milk product, the wine was given the name of Bristol Cream although it is not actually a cream liquor. It is a blend of 80% Palomino and 20% Pedro Ximenez, which have been solera aged for an average of 7 years. With aromas and flavors of orange peel, spice, caramel, this wine is off-dry to medium sweet, with medium+ body and long length.
Gonzalez Byass Alfonso Oloroso, DO Jerez, Spain, $25.00 R/S <4 g/l* Produced from100% Palomino grapes, this wine is aged for an average of 8 years in oak casks in a solera system. It is made in an oxidized style as a result of leaving air space in the casks, thereby adding color and depth to the finished wine. It is dry with baked apple, candied apple and baking spices, medium body and very long length.
Gonzalez Byass Nectar PX, DO Jerez, Spain, $25.00 R/S 138 g/l* After being harvested, the 100% Pedro Ximenez grapes are dried in the sun on mats for up to two weeks, losing water content and concentrating flavors and aromas in the grapes. After fermentation and fortification, the wine is aged in solera for an average of 8 years. It is extremely rich and unctuous, with full body and notes of molasses, anise, raisins and other dried fruits, culminating in long length.
*Residual sugar (R/S) is a measure of how much sugar remains in the wine after fermentation has been completed and is expressed in grams per liter (g/l).
This wine was a wonderful surprise in so many ways. I had been in touch with the winery – Azienda Agricola Cortese – back in March and then as the world fell apart, I forgot all about that exchange. Then on the day of my actual birthday last month, my husband handed me an unexpected package – it was the Cortese wine. Happy birthday, indeed!
Not paying full attention to the “gift,” I stuck the bottle in the refrigerator thinking that it was a white wine. Why? I’m not entirely sure, but I think I was confusing the winery’s name – Cortese – with the grape of the same name, which is a white variety.
So, one evening when my husband and I were about to have dinner (Branzino stuffed with tomatoes, capers and olives), we reached into the fridge, pulled out the Sabuci wine and proceeded to open it to enjoy with dinner…until we discovered that it wasn’t white at all, but red.
While I don’t think that there is only one right wine pairing, I do generally shy away from reds with delicate white fish since the wine can cause a metallic taste in the fish. Instead, we opened up a Chardonnay and permitted the red wine to warm up after its lengthy chill.
An hour or so after dinner, when the fish was merely a memory, I poured a glass of the Sicilian wine and turned my attention to what was in the glass. It was such a lovely discovery!
Photo courtesy of winery.
Azienda Agricola Cortese was initially owned by Giovanna Cortese. However, as Giovanna became older, she recognized that she was unable to maintain the winery on her own and, since none of her family members indicated an interest in taking over, she set out to sell the estate. After six years of intense negotiations, the winery was purchased by Stefano and Marina Girelli of Trento, Italy. The two were keenly aware that Sicily was a great wine producing region with significant potential and seized the opportunity to make their mark with organic, low-intervention wines.
Part of their La Selezione range, the grapes for the Sabuci Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG are grown within the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG denomination, which is situated in the south central part of the island. More specifically, the Sabuci Cerasuolo di Vittoria hails from a small hamlet of the same name, which has been an important area for wine production ever since the Greeks established vineyards there.
This organic wine is a blend of the indigenous varieties of Nero d’Avola (70%) and Frappato (30%). The former is fermented in barriques, while the latter is fermented in 7hl terracotta amphorae, further drawing on the wine’s historical roots. The wines are then blended together and aged for six months in various vessels before being bottled and eventually released.
After tasting the Sabuci wine, it is clear that the Girelli’s are truly harnessing the potential of their winery. It was truly a very welcome surprise in a glass!
TASTING NOTE Sabuci Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2016, Sicily, Italy, $20.00 (estimate) This wine delivers plush aromas of berries, plum and cranberry with an undercurrent of herbal notes, namely wet leaves and tobacco, along with vibrant acidity, medium+ body and long length.
This continues to be a weird year and while there is no shortage of reasons to complain, there are also reasons to celebrate. I am choosing to find the positives in my day-to-day existence and acknowledging all the good (and good wine) in my life. And Riesling is as good a reason as any to raise our glass and cheer.
I have always been a big fan of Rieslings in general and, more specifically, a big fan of those from St Urbans-Hof. Situated in Germany and established in 1947, the winery is named after the patron saint of winemakers: Saint Urban. Its 45 hectares are found within the Mosel and Saar Valleys.
The winery is presently in the hands of Nik Weis, a member of the third generation; it was Nik’s grandfather who first founded the winery. Today, the St. Urbans-Hof is a member of Fair’n Green, which emphasizes sustainability, environmental and eco audits, which reflect the winery’s dedication to protecting the land and ensuring that workers are treated well. The winery is also a member of Germany’s renowned VDP (Association of German Quality Wine Estates).
Last year I had the wonderful opportunity to taste two of the St. Urbans-Hof wines, which I pleasantly paired with takeout from my local sushi place. It was the perfectly refreshing combination of crisp wines and fresh umami flavors.
This year, I was once again offered the chance to receive wines from this vaunted producer and I readily accepted. Since Riesling is so food friendly and a good foil for various ethnic cuisines, I thought it would be fun to open up one of the wines when we tried our hand at homemade Indian food, a vegetable curry. We were not disappointed.
We enjoyed the second of the two Rieslings (the Nik Weis Urban Riesling 2019) later in the month and tit provided equal enjoyment.
As Thanksgiving draws closer, it is yet another reminder to be grateful for what we have and to seize every opportunity to celebrate life!
Nik Weis Urban Riesling 2019, Mosel, Germany, $14.00 This wine epitomizes the typical Mosel style of Rieslings. Aromas of floral and peach greet the nose. The slightly off-dry palate offers up bright acidity, medium body and flavors of lime, citrus zest and peach. It is elegant and restrained with angular structure, culminating in long length. It is really fantastic value for the price and not surprising that it is one of their best-selling wines!
Nik Weis St Urbans-Hof 2018 Wiltinger Kabinett Mosel, $20.00 Whereas the Urban Riesling is produced from grapes sourced from a variety of blue-slate soil vineyards, this grapes for this wine come from the Wiltingen village in the Saar Valley from one of the oldest vineyards (some parcels were planted in 1905). The site has reddish slate soils, thereby adding mineral and spicy characteristics. Presenting with more exotic aromas and flavors, this wine has a pronounced nose of floral and quince. On the palate it is off-dry with medium+ body, lively acidity and notes of lime, floral, spice and quince, with long length.
