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A New Look at Long Island Wines

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With the first vineyard planted in 1973 by a young, starry-eyed couple fresh out of Harvard, the first seeds (or rather vines) of the Long Island wine region were sown. That couple, Louisa and Alex Hargrave, were true pioneers, bringing vision and bravado to their newly purchased farm. Much like the early English settlers that preceded them, Alex and Louisa came to the task with limited knowledge, but unlimited passion and drive, pushing them to succeed where others were sure they would fail. Before long, they were joined in their efforts by other adventurous souls, all of whom were in love with wine. As time flew by, a fledgling wine region was born, eventually becoming an internationally recognized producer of quality wine.

Today, there are 48 winery members of Long Island Wine Country, situated among the North Fork, South Fork (aka The Hamptons) and Long Island’s Western Suffolk County. The region has garnered repeated praise in both consumer and trade publications. Moreover, the bucolic region has retained much of its rural charm, making it a true escape from the hustle and bustle of New York City, located only two hours away.  Accordingly, the region makes a great getaway to visit the vineyards, taste some wines and stock up for the summer.

I have been familiar with Long Island wines since the early 2000s. In particular, when I first joined the wine industry in mid-2005, I set up a wine education business in Mattituck, adjacent to Macari Vineyards.  As our lives changed, we sold our Long Island real estate in 2013 and have only been back to the region a handful of times since then (see Island Wines), not for any other reason that being busy with other things. For me, Long Island wines are the jewel in New York State’s vinous crown, with high quality wines, exciting innovations in winemaking and warm-hearted people. At nearly 50 years old, the region has indeed found its footing and honed its knowledge of the terroir. Thus, it was a pleasure as well as a trip down memory lane as I recently tasted through a half case of Long Island wines.

TASTING NOTES

Sparkling Pointe Topaz Imperial Rose 2019, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $44.00
Produced in the same method as those from Champagne, this wine was produced with 50% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir and 16% Pinot Meunier, the same grape varieties used in that vaunted region. Sparkling Pointe is dedicated solely to sparkling wines and with few things more festive than bubbles, it was the perfect way to ring in the new year when we spent New Year’s Eve at the winery one year. More recently, we enjoyed the wine for an at-home date night of oysters, charcuterie and cheeses. The nose offers up intense fruit character of raspberry and strawberry, while the palate displays a fine and persistent perlage, good acidity, and lovely fruit flavors, culminating in long length.

Anthony Nappa Wines, Frizzante NV, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $22.00
Originally a winemaker for Shinn Estate (now known as Rose Hill Vineyards), Anthony launched his own eponymous brand in 2007 and has been pushing the envelope since the beginning as evidenced by his white Pinot Noir aptly named Anomaly. This blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 30% Viognier, 25% Moscato Giallo, undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle and is then aged sur lie (known in Italy as the Col Fondo method) yielding a lightly sparkling wine (hence the name frizzante). Somewhat cloudy, thanks to the production methods, this wine shows aromatic fruit and floral notes, slightly reminiscent of cider, on the nose and palate, with slight effervescence, good acidity, depth and concentration, and long length.

Macari Sauvignon Blanc “Katherine’s Field” 2016, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $24.00
The Macari family has been active in the region since 1960s, planting vines in 1995. The third generation of the family is now involved in the business. Today, they are firmly focused on sustainability and implement biodynamic farming practices in the vineyards. This 100% stainless steel fermented, Sauvignon Blanc shows slight smoke, citrus and tropical fruit on the nose. Citrus and tropical fruit persist on the dry palate, joined by a hint of savory herbal notes, with fresh, crisp acidity, a slight prickle, and long length.

Also see this story.

Peconic Bay Vineyards Riesling 2020, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $28.00
One of the first wineries we visited back in the day was Peconic Bay winery. The winery has recently re-opened after a lengthy closure, but vines were tended to during this interim period, so there is no loss to the quality of the fruit. Peconic Bay has always been well respected for its Riesling, which is classic in nature. slightly off dry, but mostly dry, crisp acidity, medium body, long length.

McCall Wines, Estate Pinot Noir 2015, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $30.00
As part of his efforts to save the farmland adjacent to his family’s property from the threat of development, Russ McCall planted his fields with twenty-one acres of vineyards, eventually making his first wines in 2007. The tasting room opened in 2010. I have a been a big fan of his Pinot Noirs since I first tasted them, and they continue to impress me. This latest bottle was no exception. Beautiful notes of earth and herbs greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, joined by tart cherry and berry flavors, with good acidity, medium body and long length.

The Lenz Winery, Estate Selection Merlot 2015, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $35.00
Originally established by the Lenz family, in 1988 the winery was sold to Peter and Deborah Carroll who have continued to maintain the highest standards for their wines, pitting them against world renowned wines in blind tastings where they hold their own and then some. The winemaking team is led by Eric Fry, who has been with Lenz since 1989. This lovely Merlot offers up smoky, plum and coffee notes on the nose, which persist on the palate, which is dry, with medium body, medium+ acidity, and long length.

Gary Farrell Winery, the single vineyards and its neighborhoods

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As a pioneer of the Russian River Valley (in Sonoma, CA), Gary Farrell kicked off his wine career in the late 1970s with an emphasis on cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Working along with fellow vintners including Davis Bynum, Joe Rochioli and others, together they helped put this (now) prestigious area on the map.

The Gary Farrell label itself was launched in 1982, with the first wine produced with fruit from the Rochioli Vineyard. This set the stage for what was to follow – crafting wines from other people’s grapes. In fact, to this day, Gary Farrell doesn’t own any of its own vineyards; all of the fruit is “contracted” from various vineyards throughout the Valley – many with a simple handshake agreement. In this regard, Gary Farrell Winery has worked closely with many winegrowers for decades, currently sourcing grapes from about 36 vineyards, most (if not all) of which practice certified sustainable farming.



Sold in 2004, the winery is presently owned by Bill Price and a group of industry investors, keeping the same focus on pure expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Since 2012, the winery’s winemaking has been under the direction of Theresa Heredia, a California native with a bachelor’s degree in biochemistry from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo.

Heredia initially sought to leverage her love of science and her desire to share her knowledge through the pursuit of a Ph.D. However, during her graduate studies, she became fascinated about the research being conducted on the chemistry of wine by her fellow grad students. With a love of drinking wine already firmly entrenched, the discovery of wine science now called to her, and she transferred into the enology program three days later. She eventually left U.C. Davis to become a winemaker.

Over the next several years, Theresa gained experience at Saintsbury and Joseph Phelps’ Freestone Vineyards and also

developed a Burgundian approach through her work at Domaine de Montille. Thus, she came to her current role with a solid background in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as well as single-vineyard wines.

Thus, it is not surprising that upon Heredia’s arrival at Gary Farrell, the company shifted focus from one, single vineyard wine to 36 single vineyards, with the intention of showing the full expression of the Russian River Valley’s various vinous neighborhoods. In this regard, Heredia tailors her winemaking to the vineyard at the time of harvest. As she notes, her philosophy is to always respect the fruit.

A recent tasting provided an in-depth look at several of Gary Farrell’s single vineyard wines in an effort to compare and contrast the differing “neighborhoods” within the larger Russian River Valley. And, while the vineyards are not technically sub-AVAs, they do act as such, with distinct soil compositions, microclimates and clonal types, all of which impact the style of the resulting wine.

The wines tasted were all from the 2017 vintage, which sport new, blue labels to more easily distinguish these single vineyard wines from the company’s Russian River Selection wines. More specifically, the blue label designates a single vineyard. Two of the single vineyards have national distribution; the others are only available through the winery.

TASTING NOTES
CHARDONNAYS
All of the Chardonnays are 100% malolactic fermented, thereby converting the sharper, malic (think apple) acid into the creamier lactic (think milk) acid. The wines were barrel fermented in lightly toasted barrels about 30% and then aged for 8 to 9 months in oak barrels, 35% of which was new oak. The puncheons undergo a long, light toast, which imparts creaminess and richness, while minimizing oak influence. The overall goal is to accentuate the fruit, not mask it with wood.

Gary Farrell Winery Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $45.00
The Olivet Lane Vineyard is situated within the Santa Rosa Plains a unique, flat area with cold air that settles at night yielding wines with concentrated fruit, texture, and vibrant and juicy acidity. The vineyard was planted in 1975 with the Wente clone, which clone produces small berries.
The wine offered up aromas of apple and well-integrated oak, which persist on the dry palate, along with baking spices. The elegant wine displays medium+ acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Gary Farrell Winery Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $60.00
The Ritchie Vineyard hails from Laguna Ridge, which is located in the center of the Valley, thereby taking on characteristics of each adjacent area. The wines are generally packed with flavors, tremendous intensity and are more opulent and less acidity driven. The legendary Ritchie Vineyard was first planted in 1972. The selection of Chardonnay planted here develops hens and chicks (grapes of uneven sizes in the same bunch), which requires careful pressing.  Aromas of apple, citrus, smoke and oak greet the nose. The dry palate shows medium+ acidity, medium+ body, and flavors of golden apple, citrus/orange and very long length.

Gary Farrell Winery Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
The history between Rochioli Vineyard and Gary Farrell dates back 38 years, a vineyard found within the Middle Reach area. This northern part of the Russian River Valley, up near Healdsburg, is adjacent to the Russian River, which pulls fog and keeps nights cool. Meanwhile, the days are much warmer. Consequently, the resulting wines are typically riper with more tropical fruit. This wine provides notes of citrus and stone fruit on both the nose and dry palate. Richer and riper than the other two, this wine displays juicy acidity, fuller body, with flavors of citrus and wood, culminating in very long length. 

PINOT NOIRS

Gary Farrell Winery Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
Also found within the Middle Reach area, the Bacigalupi Vineyard was established in 1964 when Helen and Charles Bacigalupi planted it to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and later claimed fame as the growers of the grapes used by Chateau Montelena’s winning wine in the Judgement of Paris in 1976. Pinot Noir from Middle Reach usually offers up notes of cherry, rose petals, floral, raspberries, and a general supple expression of fruit and earthiness. With aromas of red cherries, smoke and dried flowers, this wine is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, and flavors of spice, earth, cherry, giving way to long length.


Gary Farrell Winery Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Green Valley/Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $55.00
The Hallberg Vineyard takes its name from its previous owners and sits within Green Valley, which is actually an official sub-AVA of the Russian River Valley. Thanks to the Green Valley’s proximity to the Pacific Ocean, it is drenched in fog from the afternoon until the following morning. Resulting wines most frequently display an earthy backbone with bright acidity and darker fruit such as cassis and huckleberry. Aromas of black raspberry, blackberry and earthiness persist on the dry palate, along with bracing acidity, medium body and very long length.

Gary Farrell Winery McDonald Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $70.00
Situated within Sebastopol Hills, the McDonald Mountain Vineyard is at the southern tip of the Russian River Valley, with exposure to the Petaluma Gap. Known as the “heartbreak vineyard,” yields are very low and there is natural desiccation due to lots of wind, fog and cool weather. Additionally, the clonal selection results in tiny clusters. The key characteristic of these wines is an acid backbone, with less fruit, more earth character.
The nose offers up notes of earth, black tea, cassis, raspberry and exotic spice, with a dry, angular palate, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.

Gary Farrell Winery Martaella Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00
Another vineyard who calls the Santa Rosa Plains home, the Martaella Vineyard is planted similarly to those in Burgundy with vines trained low to the ground to keeps the vines warmer overnight. The vineyard is planted to a blend of an heirloom selection of grapes.
An opulent wine with high acidity and good fruit concentration, it is elegant, rich and complex, with dark fruit flavors of blueberries, cherries, floral and spice, culminating in long length.

Maps courtesy of: https://russianrivervalley.org/discover/neighborhoods
Photographs courtesy of Gary Farrell Winery


Picnics of Perfection and the Perfect Wines to Pair with them

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The fires of Beltane have come and gone, ushering in warmer weather and brighter days as we await next month’s Summer Solstice. For me, this means outdoor dining
and, while outdoor dining took on new meaning this past year, there’s something about eating outside that generally adds to the ambience (although less so in February — at least in New York). Of course, with lovely weather, verdant lawns, delicious food and great friends, a picnic is an especially lovely experience. Thus, my tiffin box and I were delighted to take to the park recently in search of sun, al fresco fare and good company, accompanied by good wine.

I can still remember one of my first picnics as a young child. I simply draped a cloth on an old tree stump and proceeded to enjoy my lunch. As I got older, my picnics became more elaborate, particularly when my husband and I began to explore the joys of picnicking on our first visit to France together. This is not particularly surprising given that the word pique-nique dates to 17th century France. In any event, we would attend the local farmer’s market, select an assortment of bread, cheeses, meats and a bottle of wine before finding the perfect spot in which to partake of our meal. These pleasant memories set the stage for our future outings in parks, at polo events and elsewhere.


Consequently, today, picnics are a big part of our summer plans and I am always at the ready with my picnic backpack, picnic blanket and the aforementioned tiffin box. While I take great pleasure in the creation of a beautiful meal in a beautiful setting, your ideal picnic might simply be a blanket and baloney sandwiches. Neither one of is right, as long as we are both having a great time!

That being said, I do feel that any meal is elevated by the presence of wine and picnics are no exception. Seek out fresh whites, crisp rosés and bubbles of all shades as refreshing, food friendly and fun options to adorn one’s outdoor feast.

Here are some wonderful wine options to get you started!



WHITES
Veramonte Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Casablanca Valley, Chile, $11.99
From the cool Casablanca Valley in Chile, this wine offers up fresh herbal and citrus aromas, which persist on the palate with zippy acidity, medium body and good length. As an organic wine, it represents only a small percentage of Chilean vineyards that have sought out this designation.

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00
From the highly respected producer, Merry Edwards, this Sauvignon Blanc is a more concentrated option with rich fruit notes of pear and citrus along with an herbal character on the nose. It provides good acidity, is slightly riper than the 2018, with medium-to-full body and very long length. This is a pricier option than the others listed here, but is definitely worth the splurge.
For more on Merry Edwards, see these stories:
– In Pursuit of Pleasure, Promise and Pinot
– Making Merry for the Holidays

Vilarnau Brut Reserva NV, Cava, Spain, $14.99
Cava producer, Vilarnau, has been around since 1949 and is located in the of heart of Catalonia in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, just outside Barcelona. Its current labels pay homage to Antoni Gaudi, whose many masterpieces can be found in the city. Also an organic wine, this traditional blend of Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo, is aged over 15 months in bottle, with toasty, yeasty, apple notes on the nose and palate, good persistence of bubbles, and long length.

Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Extra Dry, Treviso, Italy, $13.00
Founded in 1960, this family-owned winery is now run by Giovanni Corvezzo, who was responsible for converting the vineyards to organic farming in 2013, and has since earned its organic certification in Italy. With a very fresh nose of cotton candy, pear and floral notes, this lovely sparkler is dry on palate, with good persistence of bubbles, vibrant acidity and long length.

ROSES
Domaine Bousquet Gaia Rosé 2020, Mendoza, Argentina, $20.00
While I had the pleasure of tasting wine with Anne Bousquet just before the pandemic, this is a new wine from the winery. Produced from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, the nose is redolent of raspberries and strawberries that persist on the dry palate, along with medium+ acidity, medium body and long length.

Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Rosé Extra Dry, Millesimato Treviso, Italy, $13.00
It’s official! Prosecco can now legally be produced as a rosé sparkling wine. Another organic and vegan option from Corvezzo, this wine offers up aromas of berries, cherry and peach, with beautiful freshness on the palate, and a gentle perlage, along with long length.

Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé Delicat NV, Cava, Spain, $15.99
From the same producer noted above, with its Gaudi-inspired label, this sparkling rosé is soon to be certified organic. A blend of 85% Garnacha and 15% Pinot Noir, the wine displays fresh floral and berry notes with a lovely dry, effervescent palate, and balanced acidity, culminating in long length.

If you desire your own very special picnic without doing all the work, check out Perfect Picnic.

Collio, A C of Shining Wines

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I was recently invited to take part in a virtual tasting featuring the wines of Collio, an area I had had the pleasure of visiting in December 2010. With nearly a decade since that first introduction, I was eager to reacquaint myself with these wines. In addition to meeting with various winemakers on our trip, we had the opportunity to steep ourselves in the culture of the area. And, as we were reminded during the virtual event, it is this unique and varied culture that permeates the wines themselves. Of course, beyond the cultural influences, all wines are a direct result of the climatic conditions in which they are grown and Collio is no exception. Yet we were advised that, like an orchestra playing a symphony, the wines needed all of the instruments to fully shine.

Among our cultural endeavors, we toured the town of Aquileia, a city originally established by the Romans, who first cultivated grapes in the area. Presently a UNESCO World Heritage site, Aquileia’s Basilica, built in 1000 CE, had much of its history lost until they undertook renovations in 1909 and discovered an amazing 4th century mosaic floor hiding underneath the more modern structure.  

We also got a glimpse of the area’s war-torn history as we hiked along the mountain ridge of Sabotin, which served as an important part of the Isonza Front during WWI. Due to its topography, it was a key defensive point for the Austro-Hungarian army against the Italians in 1915 and 1916. As we trekked the rocky crest, I joked that if we fell off the mountain and died, we would be buried in either Italy or Slovenia, depending upon which side we fell. But, in all seriousness, this arbitrary border had kept families apart, pitting one against the other. Today, the Sabotin Peace Park honors those who fought and serves as a reminder of this historic period.

A further influence on Collio’s culture was the region’s roots in the Hapsburg empire. In fact, the area had been under Austrian rule until 1915 when it finally became part of Italy. This, coupled with its shared border with Slovenia, results in an interesting mix of cultures. Accordingly, local signage is often written in multiple languages – Italian, German and Slovene – and the cuisine is a blend of these national influences.

Nestled between the Adriatic Sea and the striking, Julian Alps, Collio is blessed with a moderate climate as the mountains protect the area from harsh winds, while its proximity to the sea makes it warmer than neighboring inland areas. Significant diurnal shifts ensure that the grapes retain their acidity while the soil imparts structure and minerality due to its composition of numerous layers of marl and sandstone (referred to as Ponca).

Part of the Friuli Venezia Giulia wine region, the C-shaped, Collio denomination is comprised of 7,000 hectares, of which 1,500 are devoted to viticulture. Within this small enclave, there are 350 wineries each growing an average of 2.5 hectares. Vines are grown exclusively on the hills (colli in Italian), with 17 different grapes cultivated. Primarily known for varietal, clean, complex and elegant white wines, which account for most of the production, Collio relies on both indigenous and international varieties.

The local Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit share a 2,000- year history, while the international grapes of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Bianco were imported to the area in the 19th century. Not surprisingly, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc have established a strong foothold here due to their overall popularity worldwide. In addition to the 17 varietally labeled wines permitted in the Collio DOC, there are two others: Collio Bianco and Collio Rosso for white and red blends, respectively.

Led by wine journalist Matteo Bellotto and Mitja Sirk, a local sommelier, the tasting featured an overview of the region as well as a guided tasting of six wines. As Matteo noted, it is through wine and food that the locals speak and they were excited to have these wines speak to us. Moreover, at the end of the event, Matteo shared that we had started as guests, but having had this experience together, we were now friends.

All of the wines we tasted were from the 2019 vintage. This vintage was a particularly good one given the lack of rain in September. Consequently, the wine producers did not have to rush to harvest the grapes, giving them a long maturation on the vine. In fact, the area is one of the rainiest, more often forcing winemakers to pick in August. Yet, despite the challenges that this wet weather brings, many Collio producers are committed to practicing organic viticulture.

As we turned our attention to the wines themselves, we were advised that it was a tradition to taste the Ribolla Gialla first, given its high acidity and higher alcohol compared to other local wines. Its freshness prepares the palate for what is to come.

Conti Formentini Ribolla Gialla 2019, Collio, Italy
One of the oldest producers in the area, the Formentini family purchased a castle in San Floriano del Collio in 1520 and has remained in the area ever since. This variety is often connected with orange wines, but is also produced as a white wine.

Tasting Note: Aromas of yellow plum and apple greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, along with high acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Ronco Bianchis Friulano 2019, Collio, Italy
This winery is under the ownership and direction of Giancarlo Palla and his sons, Alberto and Lorenzo. Its name is derived from “Ronco”, from the Friulan word “fianco, or side of a hill” and “Blanchis”, white, the color of its wines. Previously referred to as Tocai Friulano, now just Friulano, this indigenous grape is prone to producing high yields, yet it still produces well balanced wines.

Tasting Note: This wine displays distinct floral notes joined by pear. It is dry, with medium acidity, medium body, and flavors of peach, pear, and floral, culminating in long length with a bitter almond note in the finish.

Blazic Malvasia 2019, Collio, Italy
This family run winery has been producing wine since 1923. Also grown in Croatia and Slovenia, as a variety Malvasia requires more talent and patience on the part of the winemaker.

Tasting Note: Redolent of stone fruits, this dry wine offers up rich and ripe peach and herbal flavors, good acidity, full body, nice length and a citrus note in the finish.

Tenuta Borgo Conventi Pinot Grigio 2019, Collio, Italy
Established on land that was previously a monastery, Borgo Conventi was founded in 1975. It was purchased by the Folonari family in 2001 and was more recently (April 2019) acquired by the Moretti Polegato family who also owns Villa Sandi, a well-respected producer of Prosecco and Prosecco Superiore.

Matteo explained that Pinot Grigio can often be misunderstood. In Collio, it carries the identity of the terroir and is not an everyday wine as it is in other regions such as those from Alto Adige and Friuli. By way of illustration, Matteo depicted Pinot Grigio from Collio as the Beatles, while Pinot Grigio from elsewhere as Shakira.

Tasting Note: This dry wine displayed a lovely freshness and minerality, with medium+ acidity, medium to full body, and long length.


Toros Pinot Bianco 2019, Collio, Italy
With a long history in the area, the Toròs family first came to Novali in the early 20th century. Today, the estate is owned by Franco Toròs, who has focused his efforts on modern winemaking.

Matteo suggested that the region is just beginning to understand the potential of Pinot Bianco as it finds its own evolution in the terroir. As part of his signature in producing this variety, Franco always uses a small percentage (<20%) of oak in its production.

Tasting Note: With a slightly woody note on the nose, this dry wine offered up medium acidity, full body, a woody undercurrent along with apple and long length.

Polje Fantazija Collio Bianco 2019, Collio, Italy
The Sutter family has been producing wine since 1933, initially in Piave. They now have the Polje estate in Collio, which derives its name “from the characteristic local karst sinkholes.”

While the Collio Bianco DOC presently permits a blend of indigenous and international grapes (as in this one which brings together Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla and Sauvignon Blanc), this DOC will eventually be restricted to blends of indigenous varieties only.

Tasting Note: This wine has aromas of flowers and pineapple, while the use of wood in its production manifests as a toothpick characteristic on the full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco celebrates 60 years and looks forward to an even brighter future

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Cantina Valle Isarco celebrates its 60th anniversary this year, but the winery is not resting on its laurels. Far from it. Rather, while it acknowledges its roots, it is looking to the future to further increase its quality. Among these efforts, the Cantina has recently revamped its logo and branding and hired a new consulting enologist.

Representing 135 families, this highly regarded cooperative is situated in the Valle Isarco, a subzone of Alto Adige and Italy’s northernmost winegrowing area. Here, in the heart of the Dolomites, vines are grown at 300-1,000 meters above sea level, on very steep slopes with a 60% gradient. Consequently, grapes must be hand harvested, resulting in a very labor-intensive production process.

Moreover, the high altitudes offer up very cold nights and cold winds, along with a wide diurnal variation, further adding to the challenges of harvest, which takes place from September through mid-October. This is not an easy task. But the benefits to such intense growing conditions are evident in the style of wines produced. Specifically, the small berry size (a consequence of the high altitude) yields wines with high concentration of flavor, while the cool climate maintains good acidity and salinity in the grapes. Overall, the wines are fresh, clean and clear with an acidic character. And this bright acidity remains even with aging.

As a very small wine region, Alto Adige accounts for only 0.8% of all Italian wine production with a total of 400 hectares planted. Of those, Cantina Valle Isarco is responsible for 150 of them. Most of these are small vineyards surrounding the homes of the individual members. While the vineyards are not certified organic, it is here that the children play in their respective backyards, running around through the vines. Accordingly, intervention is minimal and viticulture is as sustainable as possible.

Their vineyards are planted to 14 different grape varieties: 10 white varieties, totaling 98% of the winery’s production with the remaining 2% planted to four red varieties. Not surprisingly, given the region’s proximity to Germany and Austria, Alto Adige’s viticulture is heavily influenced by these two countries, especially in grape varieties grown, such as Kerner and Sylvaner. From those 14 varieties, Cantina Valle Isarco produces 28 different wines, among its Classic (entry level) and Premium ranges.

The premium wines include Aristos and Sabiona. More specifically, while Hannes Munter, resident enologist, manages all of the producers, for the Aristos wines, he pays closer attention with the selection. The Sabiona wines are produced from two single vineyards planted within the walls of the local monastery.

Among its past accomplishments, Cantina Valle Isarco rebuilt its winery 15 years ago, making considerable investments in technology and its wines continue to garner accolades (its Aristos Kerner was named a Top 20 Wine of the Year in 2016 by Decanter magazine). Yet, the young team, which includes Munter and General Manager, Armin Gratl, knew that they wanted to make significant splash as they celebrated this important milestone.

The new logo, which was launched with the 2020 vintage, gives more focus to the name of the valley with mountain and diamond imagery, and the new labels are clearer and easier to read. But, the more innovative move was the winery’s decision to collaborate with noted enologist Ricardo Cotarella. Gratl explained their choice in Cotarella, explaining that they wanted to bring in someone with an outside view and lots of experience, as well as someone with the same ambitions they have for the region.

When asked why he was interested in taking on this new consultancy, Ricardo Cotarella relished the opportunity presented to him, citing both his excitement at getting to work in the region for the first time and the challenge of improving the quality of wines that are already very good. He also looked forward to partnering with Armin and Hannes.

Moreover, he was also fascinated by the idea of working with Kerner, a grape he had only previously experienced in Japan. He admitted that, “A winemaker shouldn’t say ‘This is my favorite wine;” only the customer can make that declaration. But, he and Hannes really like the Kerner 2020 and, in fact, Cotarella confessed “I am falling in love with this varietal.”

A virtual seminar was held with members of the press and trade in mid-February, featuring six wines.  For the tasting, participants were presented with a study in two grapes, exploring different vintages, selections and microclimates. Starting with the Classic Kerner, we next tasted the Aristos and Sabiona versions before turning our attention to the analogous Sylvaner wines.

Interestingly, both of the Sabiona wines and the Aristos Sylvaner had spent some time in tonneaux, but it was with a light-handed approach to oak that added depth and elegance rather than an overtly woody flavor to the wines. In this regard, Cotarella made it clear that he uses wood in, not on the wine. Additionally, it depends on the vintage, adding that, “Oak is an opportunity, not a rule,” and he only uses it when the wine deserves the oak. With his “crush” on the Kerner 2020, he expects to treat the Aristos and Sabiona Kerner 2020 wines to some oak.

So what else does the future hold? Cotarella acknowledged that the wines of Cantina Valle Isaro from yesterday were excellent; its wines from today are excellent. As he mused on next steps, he noted that he was very optimistic. “We have everything – the climate, soil, people, grapes and technology in the winery,” he said. “I am not sure what the improvement will be, but be patient, this is my promise.” These are already extraordinary wines; I am sure our patience will be well rewarded.

Cantina Valle Isarco Kerner 2020, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions : Fresh, exotic spice and good fruit.
Tasting Note: Dry, with high acidity, medium body, aromas and flavors of apple, salinity, minerality, floral, plum, spice and very long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Kerner 2019, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: A richer expression of the variety with fuller body.
Tasting Note: An intense nose of apple, quince, pear, with full body, high acidity and very long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Sabiona Kerner 2018, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: An elegant and complex wine, with careful use of oak.
Tasting Note: Light oak and smoke on nose, with bright acidity, medium+ body, very mineral, with richness and long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Sylvaner 2020, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: Fresh and clean with a purity of fruit.
Tasting Note: Aromas of rich fruit, quince, green apple greet the nose joined by minerality and freshness on the medium-bodied palate with long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Sylvaner 2019, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: Richer, with more concentration and complexity.
Tasting Note: Less ripe fruit on nose, with peaches, minerality and salinity, along with
high acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Sabiona Sylvaner 2018, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: Elegant depth and concentration due to oak and age.
Tasting Note: Showing nice development, with high acidity and medium+ body and notes of apricot, salinity and a candied note in finish, culminating in very long length.


Winery, vineyard and principal images courtesy of Cantina Valle Isarco.