Tag Archives: Alto Adige

Alto Adige and Oregon Explore What’s In the Glass

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What’s in your glass? If you answered Merlot or Chardonnay, you’re only half right. The truth is that wine is a product of grapes and place (and to a slightly lesser extent, people), so what’s in your glass also includes where the grapes were grown and how those who made the wine chose to interpret them.

When I taught consumer wine classes on a regular basis, I used to have my “Great Grape” series, which I affectionately referred to as “Same Grape, Different Neighborhood”. In each class, I guided the group through a selection of wines all produced from the same grape variety (i.e. Chardonnays or Merlots), but which had been grown in different places around the world. The intention was to familiarize them with the general characteristics of a given grape, while providing them with concrete evidence of how climate, soil and winemaking techniques ultimately impacted the finished wine.

So I was extremely excited when I received the unusual invitation to similarly compare and contrast wines from Italy’s Alto Adige with those from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. I had written about Alto Adige previously, having attended various seminars and also having visited the region, but this was a unique look for sure. The seminar, held at Manhatta Restaurant, was moderated by Laura Williamson, MS and mostly presented by Martin Foradori Hofstatter from Tenuta J. Hofstatter. Davide Ungaro from Cantina Bolzano, Remy Drabkin of Remy Wines and David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyards were also present to share about Willamette and its wines. Overall, the seminar itself was quite technical and, while interesting to the trade, the details of which are likely too mundane to share with the average wine consumer. Yet, it was a wonderful opportunity to use a unique lens to look at two fascinating and fabulous wine regions.

Ultimately, these two winegrowing regions have a lot in common, but, not surprisingly, produce different styles due to the differences underscored during the seminar such as climatic conditions (see chart below). In that vein, fans of one should definitely venture out and try the other. Moreover, they are both equally at home at the table and offer up diversity and a range of styles from which to choose. Love Pinot Grigio? Enjoy Alto Adige’s options tonight and Oregon’s tomorrow. No need to get stuck in a vinous rut.

At the end of the day, it’s all about high quality wines made by real people who are focused on understanding their land to craft the very best wines from it.

BY the NUMBERS…
Comparing & Contrasting Top Grapes by Region

Alto AdigeWillamette Valley
#Pinot Grigio^Pinot Noir
Gewurztraminer#Pinot Grigio
*Chardonnay*Chardonnay
Pinot BiancoRiesling
SciavaEtc.
^Pinot Noir
Etc.

TASTING NOTES
Seminar Wines

Cantina Tramin Unterebner Pinot Grigio 2020, Alto Adige DOC
Rich nose, minerality, tangerine, dry, yet rich, ripe fruit, medium+ body, citrus, long length, (rich and concentrated).

Remy Wines Fischerman’s Pinot Gris 2021, Yamhill-Carlton, OR
From grapes sourced from the Walker Vineyard, on ungrafted vines, with notes of smoke, higher acidity, fresh, medium body, long length (lovely and fresh).

Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco 2019 Vorberg, Alto Adige
Medium to full bodied, with medium acidity, red apple, slight citrus, and a hint of wood in the undercurrent. Long length.

Adelsheim Vineyards, Staking Claim Chardonnay 2019, Chehalem Mountains, OR
Austere and elegant, with medium body, medium+ acidity, minerality, citrus and slight green apple, barely perceptible oak, and a slight reductive note.

Castel Juval Unterortl Pinot Nero Riserva 2018, Alto Adige Val Venosta
From the most northly Pinot Noir vineyards of Alto Adige, this wine has aromas of cherries and fresh and dried herbs. Dry and fresh, with medium body, very herbal in undercurrent, earthy in the finish, with long length.

Tenuta J. Hofstatter Pinot Nero 2017, Alto Adige Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano
Sourced from older parcels planted in 1962 and 1990, notes of earth, darker cherries and a hint of wood greet the nose. Fresh, fruit driven, with a slight herbal hint in the finish. This is a lighter style wine with lighter body but still good concentration of fruit.

Adelsheim Vineyards, Breaking Ground Pinot Noir 2019, Chehalem Mountains, OR
This wine is blend of grapes grown on three different soil types in an effort to figure out how to make great wine. Of the two Adelsheim Pinots, this one is less ripe, with cherries and orange peel aromas. Dry, with medium acidity, medium body, cherry, herbs, and long length.

Adelsheim Vineyards, Quarter Mile Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018, Chehalem Mountains, OR
This wine is more ripe, with a sweeter, jammier red fruit nose. The palate offers up riper fruit of rich cherries and spice with fuller body, and long length.

The Lagrein variety is related to Pinot Noir, but not sure of total origin, grape with lots of acid and aggressive tannins.

Cantina Bolzano Lagrein Riserva 2018 Taber Alto Adige
This is a single vineyard wine, which underwent two years of aging, one of them in oak. It has an intense nose of black fruit and floral, with firm, medium++ tannins, medium+ body, and flavors of intense, concentrated candied violets and blueberry, culminating in long length.

Peter Zemmer Lagrein Riserva Furggl 2018, Alto Adige
As a Riserva wine, this wine also spent two years aging, with six months in large oak vessels and 12 months in barriques. This wine has aromas of smoke and black fruit, and is more tannic with fuller body than the Cantina Bolzano Lagrein.

Remy Wines, Lagrein 2019, Dundee Hills, OR
In addition to making wine from traditional Oregon varieties, Remy also focuses on those from Northern Italy, including Lagrein. Hers is floral, with tart cherry fruit, and oak notes, and full bodied with firm tannins.

Additional Wines Served with Lunch (more limited tasting notes)

With the First Course: Snap pea panzanella with grapefruit and pink peppercorn

  • Tenuta J. Hofstatter Barthenau Vigna S. Michele Pinot Bianco 2020 – tree and stone fruit
  • Nals Magreid Punggl Pinot Grigio 2019 – good acidity, fresh, citrus
  • St. Paul’s Winery Schliff Sauvignon Blanc 2020 – with a very herbal nose and long length
  • Elena Walch Vigna Kastelaz Gewurztraminer 2018 – rich, spice, yellow plum, long length

With the Second Course: Patrami Smoked Salmon, Chicories, Lemon Crème Fraiche

  • Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner 2021 – juicy fruit, very mineral
  • Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Kerner 2021 – stone fruit, apricot
  • Castelfeder Burgum Novum Chardonnay Riserva 2018 – elegant, well-integrated oak
  • Adelsheim Winery Ribbon Springs Vineyard Chardonnay 2018, Ribbon Ridge, OR – butter, slight, slight development, apple

With the Third Course: Roasted Chicken breast with Yukon gold potatoes, lemon thyme, grilled scallion and Calabrian chile.

  • Cantina Bolzano Santa Maddelea Schiava Moar Classico 2020 – fresh, light bodied, cranberry
  • Cantina Girlan Trattmann Pinot Nero Riserva 2017 – smoky, herbal, light body, cherry
  • Ansitz Waldgries Lagrein 2019 – easier drinking, less tannic
  • Remy Wines Jubilee Dolcetto 2019, Eola-Amity Hills, OR – black cherries, herbaceous notes and freshness

COMPARE & CONTRAST by the NUMBERS…

  Alto Adige Willamette Valley
Farmers 5,000 931
Vineyard
Area 		5,600 ha 11,080 ha
Wineries 274 736
Average area per farmer 1 ha 12 ha
% Total Prodn. <1% of Italy 3% of U.S.
Organic Viti. 8% 48%
Altitude 200-1000 m 60-335 m
Sunshine/yr 300 days/year 150 days
White Wine
Production		 64% 35%
Red Wine
Production		 36% 65%
# of Grape
Varieties 		20 37
Bottles/yr 40 million 40 million
Longitude 46′-30″ Bolzano 45′-12″ McMinville
Climate   Warm air currents + cold
winds from the mountains 		Cooler due to the influence of the
Pacific Ocean and Columbia Gorge
Geography   Small valley with lots of
microclimates 		Not a narrow valley; 50 mi wide by 125 mi long
Soils   Mostly clay, with some volcanic soils Marine, sedimentary, volcanic basalt, and loess

Alto Adige wines hit the spot on a hot summer’s day

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Alto Adige continues to have a soft spot in my heart and a warm welcome on my palate. These wines are typically expressive, while inexpensive, providing good price to quality ratio. They are also food friendly and quite refreshing.

The smallest of Italy’s wine regions, Alto Adige produces high quality wines, but accounts for only 0.8% of all Italian wine production. The majority of these vineyards are situated on steep slopes with a patchwork of many, tiny plots owned by many different families. Given the challenges that the topography imposes on grape growing, coupled with the need for economies of scale, a large percentage of the region is managed by cooperatives.

Two such cooperatives are Cantina Girlan and Cantina Colterenzio. Cantina Girlan got its start in 1923 with 23 families gathering together to produce wine in the region. Today, the winery is home to 200 families, representing a total of 230 hectares of vineyards. Established somewhat later (1960) Colterenzio counts 300 winegrowers among its members and manages 300 hectares of vineyards. The two wineries produce both red and white wines, with a higher proportion of whites, given the high altitude climate.

These two options are excellent at the dinner table and are a nice respite from the heat and humidity of the dog days of summer.

TASTING NOTES

Cantina Colterenzio Cora Pinot Bianco 2020, Alto Adige, Italy, $18.00
Aromas of spice, citrus, and smoke greet with nose, with crisp acidity, medium+ body, and notes of chalk,
citrus and spice on the dry palate, culminating in long length

Cantina Girlan Pinot Grigio 2019, Alto Adige, Italy, $16.00
On the nose this wine displays notes of marzipan and citrus which persist on the fresh and clean, dry palate with medium+ body and long length.

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Cantina Valle Isarco celebrates 60 years and looks forward to an even brighter future

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Cantina Valle Isarco celebrates its 60th anniversary this year, but the winery is not resting on its laurels. Far from it. Rather, while it acknowledges its roots, it is looking to the future to further increase its quality. Among these efforts, the Cantina has recently revamped its logo and branding and hired a new consulting enologist.

Representing 135 families, this highly regarded cooperative is situated in the Valle Isarco, a subzone of Alto Adige and Italy’s northernmost winegrowing area. Here, in the heart of the Dolomites, vines are grown at 300-1,000 meters above sea level, on very steep slopes with a 60% gradient. Consequently, grapes must be hand harvested, resulting in a very labor-intensive production process.

Moreover, the high altitudes offer up very cold nights and cold winds, along with a wide diurnal variation, further adding to the challenges of harvest, which takes place from September through mid-October. This is not an easy task. But the benefits to such intense growing conditions are evident in the style of wines produced. Specifically, the small berry size (a consequence of the high altitude) yields wines with high concentration of flavor, while the cool climate maintains good acidity and salinity in the grapes. Overall, the wines are fresh, clean and clear with an acidic character. And this bright acidity remains even with aging.

As a very small wine region, Alto Adige accounts for only 0.8% of all Italian wine production with a total of 400 hectares planted. Of those, Cantina Valle Isarco is responsible for 150 of them. Most of these are small vineyards surrounding the homes of the individual members. While the vineyards are not certified organic, it is here that the children play in their respective backyards, running around through the vines. Accordingly, intervention is minimal and viticulture is as sustainable as possible.

Their vineyards are planted to 14 different grape varieties: 10 white varieties, totaling 98% of the winery’s production with the remaining 2% planted to four red varieties. Not surprisingly, given the region’s proximity to Germany and Austria, Alto Adige’s viticulture is heavily influenced by these two countries, especially in grape varieties grown, such as Kerner and Sylvaner. From those 14 varieties, Cantina Valle Isarco produces 28 different wines, among its Classic (entry level) and Premium ranges.

The premium wines include Aristos and Sabiona. More specifically, while Hannes Munter, resident enologist, manages all of the producers, for the Aristos wines, he pays closer attention with the selection. The Sabiona wines are produced from two single vineyards planted within the walls of the local monastery.

Among its past accomplishments, Cantina Valle Isarco rebuilt its winery 15 years ago, making considerable investments in technology and its wines continue to garner accolades (its Aristos Kerner was named a Top 20 Wine of the Year in 2016 by Decanter magazine). Yet, the young team, which includes Munter and General Manager, Armin Gratl, knew that they wanted to make significant splash as they celebrated this important milestone.

The new logo, which was launched with the 2020 vintage, gives more focus to the name of the valley with mountain and diamond imagery, and the new labels are clearer and easier to read. But, the more innovative move was the winery’s decision to collaborate with noted enologist Ricardo Cotarella. Gratl explained their choice in Cotarella, explaining that they wanted to bring in someone with an outside view and lots of experience, as well as someone with the same ambitions they have for the region.

When asked why he was interested in taking on this new consultancy, Ricardo Cotarella relished the opportunity presented to him, citing both his excitement at getting to work in the region for the first time and the challenge of improving the quality of wines that are already very good. He also looked forward to partnering with Armin and Hannes.

Moreover, he was also fascinated by the idea of working with Kerner, a grape he had only previously experienced in Japan. He admitted that, “A winemaker shouldn’t say ‘This is my favorite wine;” only the customer can make that declaration. But, he and Hannes really like the Kerner 2020 and, in fact, Cotarella confessed “I am falling in love with this varietal.”

A virtual seminar was held with members of the press and trade in mid-February, featuring six wines.  For the tasting, participants were presented with a study in two grapes, exploring different vintages, selections and microclimates. Starting with the Classic Kerner, we next tasted the Aristos and Sabiona versions before turning our attention to the analogous Sylvaner wines.

Interestingly, both of the Sabiona wines and the Aristos Sylvaner had spent some time in tonneaux, but it was with a light-handed approach to oak that added depth and elegance rather than an overtly woody flavor to the wines. In this regard, Cotarella made it clear that he uses wood in, not on the wine. Additionally, it depends on the vintage, adding that, “Oak is an opportunity, not a rule,” and he only uses it when the wine deserves the oak. With his “crush” on the Kerner 2020, he expects to treat the Aristos and Sabiona Kerner 2020 wines to some oak.

So what else does the future hold? Cotarella acknowledged that the wines of Cantina Valle Isaro from yesterday were excellent; its wines from today are excellent. As he mused on next steps, he noted that he was very optimistic. “We have everything – the climate, soil, people, grapes and technology in the winery,” he said. “I am not sure what the improvement will be, but be patient, this is my promise.” These are already extraordinary wines; I am sure our patience will be well rewarded.

Cantina Valle Isarco Kerner 2020, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions : Fresh, exotic spice and good fruit.
Tasting Note: Dry, with high acidity, medium body, aromas and flavors of apple, salinity, minerality, floral, plum, spice and very long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Kerner 2019, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: A richer expression of the variety with fuller body.
Tasting Note: An intense nose of apple, quince, pear, with full body, high acidity and very long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Sabiona Kerner 2018, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: An elegant and complex wine, with careful use of oak.
Tasting Note: Light oak and smoke on nose, with bright acidity, medium+ body, very mineral, with richness and long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Sylvaner 2020, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: Fresh and clean with a purity of fruit.
Tasting Note: Aromas of rich fruit, quince, green apple greet the nose joined by minerality and freshness on the medium-bodied palate with long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Aristos Sylvaner 2019, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: Richer, with more concentration and complexity.
Tasting Note: Less ripe fruit on nose, with peaches, minerality and salinity, along with
high acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Cantina Valle Isarco Sabiona Sylvaner 2018, Alto Adige, Italy
Overall Impressions: Elegant depth and concentration due to oak and age.
Tasting Note: Showing nice development, with high acidity and medium+ body and notes of apricot, salinity and a candied note in finish, culminating in very long length.


Winery, vineyard and principal images courtesy of Cantina Valle Isarco.