As Natalie Merchant, of 10,000 Maniacs, once sang, “These are Days you’ll remember Never before and never since I promise”
I know that I have been fortunate thus far and am choosing to see the beauty amidst the chaos, so I am proceeding to sing the whole song in all its positivity.
Yes, these are interesting, challenging, unprecedented times. We don’t know what will happen. There is so much uncertainly, but I am choosing to live day by day — to celebrate my life and all that I have right now. I realize that this may be much more difficult for others and I send them much love and healing.
All of this is not to say that everything is perfect. I am doing my fair share of stress eating and drinking. Not the best self care plan, but sometimes the creature comforts work.
Despite the stress and overwhelm, I am trying to follow my mantra of “Everything in moderation…including moderation,” and, to that end, am enjoying a glass or two of wine with meals. It brings a sense of normalcy and elevates our home cooking. We have also adopted the practice of ordering in once a week in an effort to support local businesses specifically and the food industry in general.
This week found me enjoying a trio of wines from the Hess Select collection: a white, rose and red. I have previously tasted wines from Hess’ more upscale production and have always been impressed with them and their winemaking. With 40 years of experience, it is not surprising that they are so well made.
While the Hess Select wines are produced on a much larger production scale and offer less complexity than higher end wines, they definitely deliver. They are the perfect go-to wines when you want to pour a food-friendly option that won’t break the bank, require significant thought or seem like an extravagance.
My favorite of the three was the Pinot Noir from California’s Central Coast. It was really lovely and provided a great Pinot Noir experience at a very reasonable Pinot price point ($19 SRP). The nose offered up herbal and mushroom aromas, giving way to a ripe palate of spice, dried herbs and rich cherry and berry flavors, with long length.
With the arrival of Spring, the rose was a welcome ray of sunshine, greeting the nose with watermelon and cotton candy, both of which persisted on the dry, crisp palate. Finally, the full-bodied Pinot Gris presented with ripe melon notes and paired well with our Mexican take-out.
When not eating or drinking, in order to keep busy and step away from the computer, I have taken up painting-by-numbers. This has become a meditative practice for me as well as a creative outlet. May you each find your own way to navigate these days with health, sanity and (perhaps) a glass of wine!
WINES MENTIONED ABOVE Hess Select Pinot Gris 2019, California, USA, $12.00 Hess Select Rose 2019, California, USA, $12.00 Hess Select Pinot Noir 2018, Central Coast (CA), USA, $19.00
Full Lyrics: These are days
These are days you’ll remember Never before and never since I promise Will the whole world be warm as this And as you feel it You’ll know it’s true That you are blessed and lucky It’s true that you Are touched by something That will grow in you, in you
These are days you’ll remember When May is rushing over you with desire To be part of the miracles you see in every hour You’ll know it’s true that you are blessed and lucky It’s true that you Are touched by something That will grow and bloom in you
These are days These are the days you might fill with laughter until you break These days you might feel a shaft of light Make its way across your face And when you do you’ll know how it was meant to be See the signs and know their meaning It’s true You’ll know how it was meant to be Hear the signs and know they’re speaking to you, to you
Growing up in a winegrowing family near Carcassonne, Anne Bousquet wanted nothing to do with the industry. It didn’t appeal to her in the least and she was determined to get an education, open up her options and pursue financial independence among other lifelong goals. No one told her resistance is futile.
In pursuit of her dreams, Anne attended college in Toulouse to study economics. During her studies, she moved to Minnesota as an exchange student in order to improve her English (and also ended up meeting her future husband – an exchange student from Spain). As a result of this experience, she was offered the opportunity to earn a master’s degree in economics, becoming an economist and eventually moving to Boston where she analyzed the wood and paper industries. Anne was very happy with her life and was doing well in her career.
During this time, her father had launched Domaine Bousquet. While most people go on vacation and bring home a crappy t-shirt 😊, Anne Bousquet’s father ended his Argentine vacation with the purchase of land. His dream was to plant one of the first vineyards in the Tupungato area. He planted his vines between 1998-2000 and produced his first wine in 2003.
With wine ready to sell, Anne’s father turned to her for assistance. Anne’s husband jumped at the chance, and, while Anne agreed, she kept her economics job to pay the bills. The two moved to Europe in the mid-2000s, introducing the European market to their organic Argentine wines. Anne and her husband attended their first ProWein in 2005 and, by 2008, Domaine Bousquet was selling 1 million bottles annually, entering the U.S. market around this time. In 2009, Anne resigned from economics altogether to devote herself full-time to the winery, moving from Europe to Tupungato. Two years later, Anne’s father retired, placing her directly in charge of production and finance, while her husband is responsible for sales.
In 2015, Anne and her family moved yet again, this time to Miami, when they decided to start their own import company. The winery presently exports 98% of its production, thanks to strong demand outside of the country, selling 4.5 million bottles annually worldwide.
From the very beginning, Domaine Bousquet has been keenly focused on organic farming, receiving its organic certification in 2005. This approach has been very important to them and has been a point of differentiation in the market. Not surprisingly, Domaine Bousquet has always been a leader in organic production in Argentina. As a Certified Organic winery, Domaine Bousquet takes this commitment very seriously. While some vineyards may ascribe to organics during favorable years and use chemicals during tough times, they are not permitted to make such adjustments if they wish to keep their organic certification.
Thankfully, the climate and terrain of Argentina and the Mendoza region (more specifically) lend themselves well to growing grapes organically. As the driest wine region in the world, Argentina’s vineyards are generally free from mold and mildew issues that require extensive spraying and intervention elsewhere. Additionally, the high altitude of Argentina’s winegrowing regions maintains acidity and crispness in the grapes and thus the resulting wines.
More recently, under Anne’s direction, Domaine Bouquet wanted to get to the next level of organic certification, especially in the U.S. Although all their wines have always had lower sulfite levels than conventional wines, they have chosen to achieve USDA Organic certification for their new Virgen wines by excluding the addition of any sulfites at all. These wines are also Certified Sustainable, Gluten-Free and Vegan Friendly (they use bentonite to fine their wines rather than egg- or fish-derived fining agents).
The first Virgen wine was a red blend (bringing together Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec), made in 2018. It sold out in three months, prompting them to increase production with the next vintage, adding a Malbec and a Cabernet Sauvignon to the lineup in addition to the original red blend.
In speaking about these new wines, Anne acknowledges that the biggest risk to the Virgen line is temperature fluctuation during travel and stocking issues with exposure to heat. “It’s pure; it’s a naked baby.” Yet, when tasting the wine two years later, they have found it still to be fresh and clean, despite its lack of added sulfites, which generally act as a preservative and anti-oxidant.
Moreover, they want to boost production of their sparkling wines (which they produce using both the Charmat and Traditional Methods) since they can give consumers Certified Organic sparkling wines – something they can’t really get from Champagne and many other regions. And, they can scale their production to meet perceived demand, due to their 700 acres and supplemental growing contracts.
The winery’s Gaia line, named for a goddess from Greek mythology, is now available only on-premise (at restaurants / not for retail sale). Initially developed with a red blend and a white blend, it also now includes a varietal Cabernet France (a first for them) and a Malbec. Anne notes that Cabernet Franc has been gaining in popularity in the region, prompting them to craft this wine.
Finally, Anne presented us with Ameri, Domaine Bousquet’s top icon wine. As she explained, all of the wines have Anne’s name on it, so they decided to create one wine with her husband’s name – his last name is Alimeri!
All in all, despite her initial resistance, Anne has made a good life for herself and her family in the industry she swore she’d never work. And, the wines that she produces are not only well made, they are quite economic to buy. As for whether Anne’s pre-teen daughter will try to eschew the family business as her mother did, for now, she wants to be an actress or a chef. We’ll have to wait to see if her resistance is futile!
TASTING NOTES Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose Brut NV, Tupungato, Argentina, $13.00 Produced via the Charmat Method, this blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay has a beautiful, medium salmon color and a nice mousse. The dry palate offers up refreshing acidity, ripe berries and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Chardonnay 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $18.00 Aromas of nuts, apples and pear greet the nose and persist on the tongue. On the palate, the wine is dry with good acidity and a rich, round, full body, culminating in long length.
Domaine Bousquet Virgen USDA-certified organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Tupungato, Argentina, 13.00 This is a beautifully light Cabernet Sauvignon, with medium body and light tannins. It is fresh and clean, with black fruit, a slightly leafy note and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Virgen USDA-certified organic Malbec 2019, Tupungato, Argentina, $13.00 Much more intense than its sister Cab, the Malbec is concentrated with juicy, ripe fruit of plum and blackberries with light to medium tannins, medium body and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Gaia Cabernet Franc 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $20.00 A lovely wine with good complexity of aromas and flavors including cranberry, blueberry and dried herbs. The palate provides a beautiful texture. culminating in long length.
Domaine Bousquet Gaia Malbec 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $20.00 This wine is fresh with lush, dark red and black fruit, along with peppery, spicy notes and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Ameri 2017, Tupungato, Argentina, $36.00 Bringing together Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot and then aged in French oak for 16 months, this wine displays strength and elegance, with medium tannins, red and black fruit and long length.
Kicking off Women’s History Month, a group of female wine professionals descended upon New York with big bottles (3-Liters, to be specific) of Bordeaux. These rare, double-magnum sized wines were poured by the glass during the week of March 2-8 at 66 restaurants around the city. The wines and the women showcased the diversity of Bordeaux with dry and sweet whites as well as the more well-known reds.
In conjunction with this state-wide promotion of “Strong Women Make Big Bordeaux Bottles,” members of the press were invited to take a VIP wine tour to visit four restaurants featured in the event to taste the wines and meet some of the women behind the bottles: Rita Jammet, Sophie Solnicki-Thierry, Caroline Perromat and Sylvia Courselle.
Our first stop was Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, where we were introduced to Rita, who is the former owner of the esteemed (and now closed) La Caravelle restaurant. She and her husband began producing wines for the restaurant, launching first a Champagne and then a Bordeaux in 1995, which they continued making after the restaurant closed. Their small production La Caravelle wine is made from grapes sourced within the Listrac-Medoc appellation and is made only in good years. At the wine bar, sommelier André Compeyre paired her La Caravelle 2008 with Beef Bressola Croque with Comte cheese.
Next, we arrived at 701 West at the Edition Hotel in the heart of Times Square. This luxury restaurant and cocktail bar is the first and only fine dining establishment in the neighborhood and was awarded three stars from The New York Times. Among the beautifully appointed dark wood, Sophie Solnicki-Thierry of Chateau Forcas-Hosten provided us with the history of the estate. The property was previously owned by a group of Americans, but has more recently been under new ownership, which has breathed new life into the property. JF Restaurants’ Beverage Director, Amy Racine, matched her Cedres d’Hosten 2012 with braised lamb flatbread and eggplant.
Switching gears from red to white, we headed to O Ya at the ParkSouth Hotel. Here, we heard from Caroline Perromat, of Chateau de Cerons. Perromat and her husband Xavier, took over management of the family estate in 2012, situated within the tiny sub-appellation of Cerons, within the Graves area. Caroline shared that she and her husband now work together at the estate and talked about the complexity and challenges in making a white wine compared to making a red one. Her Chateau de Cerons 2017 was beautifully paired with shima aji sashimi by Chelsea Carrier, Beverage Director for the hotel.
La Caravelle
Amy Racine and Sophie Solnicki-Thierry
Chateau de Cerons
Caroline Perromat
Sushi at O Ya
Sylvie Courselle
Bruno Almeida
Last, but certainly not least, we joined Sylvie Courselle, from Chateau Thieuley at Tocqueville. The family-owned estate of Chateau Thieuley was initially in the hands of Francis Courselle, but when his two daughters, Sylvie and Marie, graduated with degrees in agricultural engineering and enology, it was clear that they were ready to take over the business. Today, Sylvie focuses on sales, while Marie manages the technical aspects of winemaking. Tocqueville’s sommelier, Bruno Almeida chose to show the Chateau Thieuley 2015 with gougeres and steak au poivre with bone marrow. Beyond the female focus, there was much to learn about Bordeaux itself, which has undergone quite a transformation as of late. Today’s Bordeaux has embraced sustainability, with an aggressive agenda to shift toward organic farming, which is particularly difficult in Bordeaux’s maritime climate.
While the emphasis on indigenous grapes remains, there has been a shift from exclusively blended wines to the production of some single variety wines and a stronger promotion of dry whites, which account for 9% of total production. Moreover, the region is keenly aware of the impact of climate change, which, for the most part, has been favorable in terms of more consistent quality from vintage to vintage, but looms large as a potential threat in the future as things (literally) heat up. Accordingly, last year Bordeaux became the first French region to permit new grape varieties to be used in an effort to combat rising temperatures. There are four new red and three new white grape varieties that have been added to the list of authorized grapes.
And, while what happens in the vineyard is extremely important, the people behind the wine are equally important. In this regard, a new generation of winemakers and vineyard managers have come to the forefront of the industry. These professionals have often grown up in the region, but are much more well-traveled with experience beyond Bordeaux than their predecessors were. Consequently, they bring back diverse expertise which informs their winemaking and grape growing. And, as was evident with this campaign – many of those newcomers are female, taking on the roles of owners, winemakers, cellar masters and marketers. A new day has certainly dawned in Bordeaux and it is exciting to see what is happening.
It’s Valentine’s Day week, with the addition of the newly created Galentine’s Day and the usual backlash against this “Hallmark Holiday.” But, whether you are reaching for all things red and romantic or boycotting it altogether, there’s no denying the love that exudes from wine brand Bodega Norton, which celebrates its 125th anniversary this year. Sharing lots of love with the New York wine press, the brand’s Chief Winemaker (David Bonomi) and Sales & Marketing Director (Santiago Galli) visited New York earlier this month as the third visit of a total of 125 to mark this momentous occasion.
Founded in 1895, Bodega Norton got its start when a British engineer, Edmund James Palmer Norton, was stationed in South America to build a rail line connecting Chile and Argentina and fell in love with an Argentine woman. Completely smitten and unwilling to leave her, he gave up his engineering career and established the winery in Mendoza, Argentina.
The winery continued to grow and flourish under the Norton family until it was purchased in 1989 by Gernot Langes-Swarovski of the Austrian crystal company. Drawn by his passion for wine, Gernot recognized the beauty and quality of Bodega Norton. To protect his investment, he sent his son, Michael Halstrick, to Argentina to lead the winery as CEO. Equally charmed as the original founder, Michael, too, met and fell in love with an Argentine woman, married her and now lives full-time in Argentina with his family, shepherding the winery towards ever-continuing excellence.
Joining Michael in his pursuit of excellence, David Bonomi has held the post as Chief Winemaker since 2014, and is only the 3rd winemaker at the winery in the past 50 years, maintaining its heritage and legacy. He had been with the company previously and his deep affection for Bodega Norton was evident as he spoke about the vineyards and wines.
Named a Top 10 South American winemaker by Decanter magazine, David was born into an Italian winemaking family (originally from Piedmont) and fell in love with wine at an early age. His first passion was viticulture, and, while he eventually studied enology as well, it is clear that he comes alive in the vineyard. With 33 years as a professional winemaker and viticulturist, David loves discovering the capabilities of new (to Argentina) varieties, such as Gruner Veltliner as well as new vineyards (in Uco Valley and Patagonia). He then crafts his interpretation of a place into wine.
Speaking about the Swarovski family, David described their arrival as a merger between Latin passion and European vision. He further noted the influence that the family’s attention to detail in the crystal business was infused into the existing culture at Bodega Norton, along with a strong emphasis on sustainability and best practices. Moreover, their commitment to quality production extends to their growers; the minimum contract is 10 years with shared investment in netting and other necessary equipment.
The winery’s five estate vineyards are all found in the foothills of the Andes Mountains, comprising a total of 1,750 planted acres that range in age from 30 to 80 years old. They are situated within Mendoza’s Lujan de Cuyo district and further delineated in a special area known as primera zona (first zone) for the quality of the grapes.
This is truly the desert, with limited water (they are limited to irrigating with snow melt from the mountains) and challenging conditions to create wine. As David explained, there are two climates here: hot and dry and, in more difficult vintages, cool and rain. But, their long-term vision keeps them going. And, that is a true labor of love!
TASTING NOTES
During the lunch celebration, we had the great fortune to taste through a selection of current wines as well as a vertical of the winery’s top wine, Gernot Langes. The Gernot Langes was first produced in 2003 and honors Bodega Norton’s current owner, Gernot Langes Swarovski. Assessing seven vintages ranging from 2006 to 2016, it was apparent that the wine is not a photocopy, but rather, it is a wine that differs from vintage to vintage. Moreover, while only the 2016 vintage is available, the exercise demonstrated the wine’s ability to age and develop with time.
Bodega Norton: 1010 Bubbles NV, Mendoza, Argentina, $13.00 Produced via a special Charmat Method to create fine bubbles and retain the fresh fruit aromas of Gruner Veltliner, the wine is bright with slight floral and citrus and pear notes, delicate mousse, long length.
Bodega Norton Reserva Malbec 2018, Luyan de Cuyo, Argentina, $19.00 Made with 100% Malbec, David now adds a small mount of fruit from the Uco Valley to the wine to give it additional complexity. It offered up notes of plums, figs, black current with a savory and leafy undercurrent. The palate displayed good acidity, with medium-firm tannins, medium+ body and long length.
Bodega Norton Privada Family Blend 2016, Luyan de Cuyo, Argentina, $22.00 Bringing together 40% Malbec (for structure) , 30% Cabernet Sauvignon (for body) and 30% Merlot (for acidity), this wine was originally kept just for the family to enjoy with friends, but has since been produced as a commercial wine. The use of oak is very limited, so it is not overt on the palate. Notes of spice, black cherry and blackberry greet the nose. On the palate, it is more structured than Reserva Malbec, as well as richer and rounder with a smoky note in the very long finish.
Bodega Norton Gernot Langes 2016, Mendoza, Argentina, $105.00 A blend of 30% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine was aged in oak for 16 months, with an additional 14 months in bottle before release. Of the vintages we tasted, it was the freshest with an expressive, concentrated nose of black fruit, dried herbs, smoke, with good acidity, firm tannins, medium+ body, culminating in long length.
This month, we heard reports of a NASA summer intern, Wolf Cukier, who discovered a new planet. Pretty heady stuff! These days, it is challenging to discover anything new under the sun. We live in a world where we’ve been there, done that and, with globalization, there is a homogenization of culture that pervades. Yet, we still treasure unique products and delight in the discovery of new finds.
Twenty years ago, in search of novel and noteworthy products to sell, Lou Di Palo, head of his family’s business, was fortunate to come across a then-unheard of Italian cheese: Piave. Bringing his new-found discovery to America (or at least to the Italian cheese and specialty shop established in 1903 by his great-grandfather, Savino Di Palo), Lou introduced New Yorkers to this wonderful artisan cheese.
Lou Di Palo
Today, Piave DOP Cheese has become a beloved staple of the American market, finding shelf space in major supermarkets as well as in specialty stores. This traditional cheese hails from the Belluno province near the northern tip of the Veneto region, amidst the Dolomite Mountains.
Historically, the area has been known for its dairy cattle since the 1700s, but as the rural economy declined in the wake of industrialization, it was the cooperative dairies that saved the industry during the 1800s. Yet, despite this lengthy history, the Piave cheese as we know it, named for the local Piave River, dates from 1960. And, more recently, the Piave Consorzio was established in 2010 to protect the brand and quality of the cheese, with an average of 300,000 wheels produced annually.
A hard, cooked, cow’s milk cheese, these cylindrical cheeses are made from fresh milk sourced solely from within the mountain province and limited to three types of cow: Italian Brown, Italian Spotted Red and Italian Friesian (aka Holstein). A special culture from the area accounts for the cheese’s characteristic taste, which is further influenced by its aging process, with flavor intensifying over time. As the cheese ages, the curd becomes darker and harder and the rind increases in thickness and color. Due to the fermentation process involved in its production, it has a low lactose content compared to some other cheeses.
With its fresh, medium, aged and extra old age designations, there are several different options available: –Piave Fresco (20-60 days) -Piave Mezzano (61-180 days) -Piave Vecchio (>180 days) -Piave Vecchio Selezione Oro (more than 12 months) -Piave Vecchio Riserva (more than 18 months)
Regardless of your preference, the rich, nutty flavors of the cheese pair well with wine. In this regard, a recent press event hosted at Di Palo’s newest venture: C. Di Palo wine bar, showcased the pairing ability of the cheeses with the wines of Garda Spumante DOC. These wines, named for Lake Garda and produced just 100 miles away from the Piave DOP area, offered up a fresh and effervescent option to cleanse one’s palate in between bites of cheese. Guests at the happy hour were invited to sample the Piave Mezzano and Piave Vecchio Selezione Oro in their unadulterated, delicious form, as well as a range of dishes prepared by Di Palo’s chef, utilizing both the cheeses and the wines in his recipes.
As Italy’s largest lake, Lake Garda splits its regional allegiance down the middle, with Lombardy to the west and the Veneto to the east. Here, drying breezes and the moderating influence of the lake permit the grapes to ripen sufficiently, while maintaining their bright acidity.
Established in 1996, the corresponding Garda DOC wine area encompasses the cities of Brescia, Mantua, Verona and is home to 10 appellations situated at the southern curve of the lake. It overlaps with other appellations, including the more well-known appellations (aka denominations) of Lugana, Custoza, Valpolicella, Bardolino, Soave and Valdadige.
Although the denomination permits the production of whites, rosés and reds, the core production centers on sparkling wines with 7 million bottles produced annually, with an estimated production increase to 20 million bottles in the next few years. These sparkling (aka spumante) wines may be made using either the Traditional (that used in Champagne) or Charmat (used in Prosecco production) Methods, depending upon the individual producer’s personal preferences. The white Garda DOC Spumante may use Garganega, Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano or Chardonnay, while the Rosé Garda DOC Spumante is produced from Corvina, Rondinella, Pinot Nero or Merlot. The wines range from Brut Nature (no sweetness) to Demi-Sec (dessert style) wines.
With the luscious cheese dishes served alongside the fragrant sparkling wines, it was a perfect evening of food and wine pairings. All in all, a delicious discovery and an embarrassment of riches!
C. Di Palo wine bar with its meticulous finishes. The beautifully restored sequoia wood on the bar and walls comes from a reclaimed water tower.
Yes, you can reach for any old beverage at the dinner table, but there is something about the way that wine creates a magical connection with food that transforms an ordinary meal into an extraordinary meal, regardless of what you are eating. It’s a unique equation of 1 + 1 = 3 that can be replicated by few other libations.
An assortment of wines from Kobrand arrived at my doorstep, each providing a wonderful opportunity to match it to a particular meal. I was admittedly encouraged to pair these wines with Christmas cookies, but Christmas came and went and frankly, I don’t eat Christmas cookies.
Most of these meals consisted of take-out, but the wines elevated these simple dishes with their presence. And, we actually were inspired to create a chorizo paella for the Barbaresco and were not disappointed.
The Seeker Riesling 2018, Mosel, Germany, SRP: $13.99 The Seeker Riesling 2018 was a wonderful accompaniment to sushi. The crisp acidity of the wine married well with the freshness of the raw fish and its luscious mouthfeel matched with the cuisine’s umami characteristic. This wine hails from mineral-rich, slate soils in Germany’s Mosel region, with grapes 100% hand-harvested. After fermentation, the wine is aged in tank and oak cask for 3 to 8 months before being bottled in lightweight glass to reduce its carbon footprint.
Tasting Note: Aromas of lime zest and flowers greet the nose. The off-dry palate offers up high acidity, balancing the wine’s slight sweetness, with lovely citrus and lime, culminating in long length.
Caposaldo Moscato NV, Provincia di Pavia IGT, Lombardy, Italy, SRP: $14.99 This wine is much sweeter than the Riesling (with residual sugar coming in at 110 g/l compared to 25.5 g/l), so it is more suited to pairing with desserts than savory food. That being said, we opened it up with Thai take-out and really enjoyed it with our mango salad. The sweetness of the wine matched the sweetness of the fruit and its low alcohol (7% abv) kept our heads clear.
Tasting Note: Produced from 100% Moscato Bianco grapes, which are handpicked from 20-year-old vines, this wine provides a fresh and lively palate balancing the sugar. Aromas and flavors of peach and Asian pear dominate, with a slight effervescence due to a secondary fermentation; long length.
Vina Montes Alpha Carmenère 2017, DO Colchagua Valley, Chile, SRP: $21.99 A burger and fries might not be a healthy dinner option, but it was certainly tasty and was a lovely foil for the Carmenere, which is blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 55% aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (a combination of 1st, 2nd and 3rd use). While not overly tannic, there were sufficient tannins to pair well with the protein the burger and the fruit-forward nature of the wine also added to the match.
Tasting Note: The nose is redolent of meatiness and earthiness, while the dry palate presents with very ripe dark red and black cherry fruit and coffee. This full-bodied wine provides good acidity, with medium-soft tannins and long length.
Michele Chiarlo Reyna Barbaresco DOCG 2015 (SRP: $49.99), Piedmont, Italy, SRP: $49.99 Eyeing this 100% Nebbiolo wine from such an esteemed region, I was anticipating an overly tannic, overly youthful wine, but was pleasantly surprised that it was showing so nicely, despite being capable of much lengthier aging. We transformed a cold winter’s night with the warmth of southern Spain, preparing our own chorizo paella, which went wonderfully with the Barbaresco.
Tasting Note: A very expressive nose of roses, cocoa, cherries, chocolate-covered cherries, slight earth/wet dirt persisted on the dry palate, along with medium+ acidity, firm tannins, medium+ body, along with a delicateness and elegance, with extremely long length.
With its long history of wine production dating to the 6th century, Valpolicella is well known. Moreover, it has grown significantly in production over the past 30 years, from 1 million bottles annually to more than 40 million bottles (60 million if you include the full complement of wines). However, as sommelier, Filippo Bartolotta noted, it has been slow to catch up with its reputation, calling it an underdog in the wine world.
At a recent Valpolicella Master Class held in New York City at Café DiPalo, Bartolotta spent time providing a wealth of information to the assembled wine press and trade. In the end, there is a lot to know if one wishes to truly understand this wine, but it is certainly accessible and enjoyable without knowing all of the nuances that make up this family of wines.
Wherefore Art Thou Valpolicella? Situated north of (the fair city of) Verona in Italy’s Veneto region, the Valpolicella production area comprises three zones: Valpolicella, Valpolicella Classico and Valpantena. Here, east of Lake Garda and protected by the Lessini Mountains, the area is favorably impacted by cool winds and cool nights that fix the color and aroma in the grapes.
Geologically, the area was formed 120 million years ago when two plates collided creating the Alps. The soils are calcareous, with the obvious presence of fossils and dinosaur footprints, imparting minerality to the wines. Volcanic soils are also present underneath the balsamic strata. More recently, major studies on how the varied soils impact on different varieties have been undertaken.
With regard to varieties, Valpolicella is produced from a combination of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara and other local grapes. As the starring players, Corvina and/or Corvinone can account for 45-95% of the blend, which is a recent change to the requirements. Corvina is known for providing backbone, structure and perfume, similar to Pinot Noir, while the thicker- and darker-skinned Corvinone lends power, color and structure to the wines. Rondinella, which is the other mandatory variety and permitted from 5 to 30%, adds both minerality and acidity. Up to 15% of other indigenous varieties can round out the blend.
What’s in a Name? But, as Bartolotta emphasized, the story is much more complicated than climate and soil because Valpolicella is a wine about process rather than about a single variety or even several varieties. In particular, there are four separate wines produced under the Valpolicella umbrella: Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG and Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG. These differing wines are the result of the historical development of wine in the region. In addition, Valpolicella Superiore DOC are those Valpolicella wines that have been produced from riper grapes, along with one year of aging, which are fuller-bodied in character.
Perhaps the most recognizable of the four, Amarone is produced from the best batches of fruit, which are left to dry in in specialized rooms for a minimum of 100 days. This extended drying period concentrates the sugars and reduces the weight of the grapes by 40%. It is during this process that Corvina truly shines as it undergoes various enzymatic reactions that alters its DNA and ultimately changes its flavor. Further, the grape will defend itself against noble rot, releasing balsamic vinegar aromas. Regardless of the varieties, all of the shriveled grapes are then fermented to dryness, yielding a concentrated, full-bodied wine, which must be aged for at least two years. Amarone Riserva has spent an additional two years of aging.
But, before there was Amarone, there was Recioto, with 2500 years of history! Stemming from the word rece – local lingo for ears – it was the lobes of the berries which garnered more sun exposure and thus higher quantities of sugar. These sugar-laden sections of the grape bunches were dried for lengthy periods of time. Taking advantage of the cold temperatures, the free run juice would be put outside to stop fermentation, the process would then be repeated and eventually the yeast stopped working. Interestingly, the Romans would add sulfur dioxide to kill off the yeast, a practice still used to this day. With high residual sugar levels, these are a rich and decadent dessert wines, which are produced in minute quantities.
Under the less modern and, consequently, less controlled, winemaking conditions of the past, occasionally the result would be Recioto Scapa. If the wine didn’t stop fermenting, it became dry instead of sweet since all of the sugar had been converted into alcohol. Thus, Amarone was originally called Recioto Secco (dry). Taking its name from the word for bitter – amar – Amarone became the official term for this style of wine as of 1936.
And, sitting somewhere in between Valpolicella and Amarone is Ripasso – translating as one more pass. In this process, Valpolicella wine is added to the leftover Amarone pomace, prompting fermentation to start again, creating wines with higher alcohol, more extraction, fuller body and greater concentrations of phenolics and sweetness.
Please come and drink a cup of wine With this wide range of wines under the Valpolicella name, there is a lot of diversity and opportunity to find the perfect wine for the right occasion. During the Master Class, we tasted the full complement of these wines, which provided a wonderful introduction to each wine/style. Some are more suited to casual cuisine, while the beautifully balanced sweetness of Recioto is great with (or instead of) dessert.
TASTING NOTES
Sartori Di Verona Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore 2015 Sartori di Verona is situated in the Negar area, with 50 hectares of vineyards. This wine sees no oak and is more about simple fruit flavors than complexity. It is dry with high acidity, medium tannins and flavors of cherries and a slight herbal note, culminating in long length. With its lively acidity, this is a great match for calamari or pasta pomodoro.
Novaia, Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore 2016 I Cantoni This tiny producer has 7 hectares and its vineyards are certified organic. There is some volcanic presence in the soils and a small percentage of dried grapes are incorporated into the wine. Compared to the Sartori di Verona Valpolicella (above), this wine is more concentrated, with riper cherry fruit and more noticeable herbal character. It also displayed greater minerality, a fuller body, slightly lower acidity, lovely tannins and longer length.
Villa Mattielli, Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG 2015 Villa Mattielli is owned by Roberta Roncolato and her husband, Giacomo, a former F1 pilot. Roberta takes a modern approach to her winemaking, crafting robust wines, which are aged in French oak. This dry, full-bodied wine offered up lots of ripe black fruit, blueberries, dried fruit, a hint of oak and long length.
Secondo Marco, Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2011 This winery’s name literally translates to according to Marco – in this case the wine is made according to owner Marco Speri. The grapes spent 150 days of drying and then went through 45 days of fermentation and maceration, followed by 48 months aging in big Slavonian oak. It is very floral with aromas of rose and violets, as well as gunflint. On the full-bodied palate, it shows flavors of blueberry, blackberry, citrus, and an undercurrent of menthol. Overall, it is hedonistic, sensual, with a ripe sweetness, balanced with good acidity, culminating in very long length.
Villa San Carlo, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Superiore 2013 Home to a beautiful Venetian villa, Villa San Carlo was purchased by the Pavesi family in 1958. While they planted vineyards early on, they only chose to begin making their own wine in 2009. The oak aged wine offers up smokey, barbecue, earthy, mushroom and black fruit aromas, which persist on the dry, medium+-bodied palate. It has high acidity, good tannins and lush fruit and spice flavors. While not as complex as the Amarone, it provides good value for the money and is lower in alcohol.
Degani, Recioto Della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2016 Located in the Classico valley, the three Degani brothers took over after their uncle’s death, maintaining the vineyards and winery as a family business. This wine offers up a complex and intense nose of dried fruit, prunes, raisins, burnt sugar, smoke and spice. It is medium sweet with high acidity, full body, yet is elegant, balanced, and beautiful with a fruit-driven palate along with hints of cocoa in the finish and long length. Filippo suggested pairing it with brownies with cranberries.
I recently taught a wine class for the IWAGY wine club in Poughkeepsie, NY titled, “Affordable Southern Burgundy: Great Wines that Won’t Break the Bank.” While the presentation was primarily designed to introduce the audience to the lesser-known Burgundian districts of the Macon and the Cote Chalonnaise, they were eager to know about affordability.
Why? Well, it should come as no surprise to ardent wine lovers that Burgundy is often price prohibitive. As Ethan Fixell wrote in “The Hidden (Affordable) Gems of Burgundy” (1/2/2018), “There’s no gentle way to put this: Burgundy has become stupidly expensive.” And, in his NY Times article, “The Value of Burgundy, Regardless of the Price,” (May 9, 2019), Eric Asimov reinforced this sentiment, saying, “Speaking generally, Burgundy is nowadays the most coveted wine on the planet.[,]” citing the small production capacity and further noting, “The prices of Burgundy have shot upward in the last 20 years, to the point where the best wines are far beyond the means of most people.”
Asimov’s claims are backed by numbers: a Grand Cru Vineyard in the Cote d’Or that was valued at 7 million Euros in 2008 had jumped to 14 million Euros in 2018. And regional vineyards, though much cheaper (70,500 Euros/ha in 2017) are still not a bargain.
These exorbitant real estate prices, coupled with scant quantities – Burgundy production accounts for only 8.6% of all French AOP (quality) wine, 4.1% of all French production overall and only 0.6% of world production – means that it is challenging to find reasonably priced wines from the region. (Source: Vins de Bourgogne)
Burgundy has been producing wine for centuries, with its vignerons honing their craft and truly understanding the nuances of the region’s soils, climate and vineyards. Principally planted to Chardonnay (51%) and Pinot Noir (41%), these wines have become the benchmark for all others of these varieties and, not surprisingly, are highly regarded and sought after.
Yet, despite the dire outlook on overall affordability, it is possible to find more reasonably priced Burgundian wines if you know where to look. One place to check out is online e-tailer, Elden Selections. Founded in 1992 by Eleanor Garvin and Dennis Sherman, expats who have lived and worked in Burgundy for over 30 years, Elden Selections is a direct-to-consumer wine store focused almost exclusively on Burgundy. As such, it is unique in the U.S. and, equally important, they provide a wide range of Burgundian bottles from various appellations and price points within the region.
Elden offers a large selection of “everyday Burgundy” under $40.00 featuring regional and village level wines as well as those from smaller, hard to find appellations such as Irancy. And, in keeping with their desire to satisfy wine-drinking consumers, not wine collectors, the top priced wine is $300; not cheap by any means, but definitely more palatable than the staggering $1,500 or more per bottle that some rare wines can fetch.
Moreover, the wines are sourced from small quantity, minimal-intervention, farmer-made producers, rather than stocking wines from the large negociants. Having lived in the region for years, Eleanor and Dennis have strong relationships with the producers, tasting the wines multiple times to ensure quality.
Further, their site is easy to navigate, packed with educational information about the wines and their producers and permits consumers to purchase as few as one or as many wines as they wish. Case orders are shipped free of charge. Plus, they tout a no-questions-asked return policy (though, to date, no one has exercised this option).
Now is a great time to pick up a mixed case of Burgundy wines to serve with holiday dinners or to give as gifts.
I have been blessed to have a wide range of wonderful wines in my glass lately, reflecting the diverse array of wines in the world. One wine in particular that stood out is Ferraton Pere & Fils La Matiniere Crozes-Hermitage.
A midway point between Côtes du Rhone and Côte Rôtie in terms of budget, Crozes-Hermitages is a fabulous option when looking to the Rhone Valley. As the Northern Rhône’s largest appellation, it produces 6 to 7 million bottles annually, under similar climatic conditions to nearby Hermitage, featuring the Syrah grape.
Ferraton Père & Fils was founded by Jean Orens Ferraton in 1946. Today, his son Michel serves as winemaker, having inherited the winery from his father. During the 1960s, Michel bought up prime parcels of land, enlarging the estate’s holdings. The company committed to farming biodynamically in 1998 and continues to pursue this approach currently. Not surprising, Ferraton initially established its reputation as a quality producer of estate-bottled wines, but it also serves as a well-regarded négociant, buying up top grapes from local vineyards.
The La Matinière (which translates as early bird) Crozes-Hermitage is named for Michel’s wife, Colette, who is an early riser, and is produced solely from Syrah. The wine is aged for 12 months in oak barrels before being bottled.
TASTING NOTE Ferraton Père & Fils La Matinière Crozes-Hermitage 2017, Rhone Valley, France, $26.00 Aromas of black cherry, blackberry, sage, dried herbs and a hint of earth greet the nose. The dry palate displays high acidity, medium+ body, and flavors of earth, black cherry, dried herbs, slight woody note and iodine, with long length. This wine offers great value and a spectacular experience.
I have been blessed to have a wide range of wonderful wines grace my glass lately, reflecting the diverse array of wines in the world. One wine that particularly stood out is Harvey’s Bristol Cream Sherry. I first enjoyed a glass of this medium-sweet Sherry while having high tea at the Empress Hotel on Victoria Island off the coast of Vancouver. It was a lovely treat and added to the experience, but not something I think about often. But the opportunity to renew my acquaintance with the class was welcomed as I discovered its equal affinity for cheese and chocolate.
While the name might be confusing, the reference to “cream” is simply based on the wine’s full-bodied, creaminess; it is, rather, a Sherry, not a cream liquor. The wine was first developed in 1882, blending four different styles of Sherry, which were aged from 3 to 20 years in a solera (a fractional-aging system).
This classic wine has recently received a make-over, sporting a new label that is not only modern in design, but also turns blue when the wine is properly (50-55oF) chilled. At 17.5% alcohol by volume, which is typical for this style of fortified (i.e. Sherry, Port) wine, it is something that should be drunk in smaller quantities than non-fortified wines. However, an opened bottle will easily last for up to a month if kept in the refrigerator
This is a great wine to serve for holiday gatherings, pairing well with pumpkin pie and holiday cookies as well as with salty/savory foods such as unctuous cheeses and charcuterie platters.
TASTING NOTE Harveys Bristol Cream Sherry, Jerez, Spain, $24.99 Deep amber in color, this wine offers up aromas of dried apricots, spice, candied orange, honey and a hint of nuttiness, all of which persist on the medium-sweet, yet balanced, full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.
