While many people are familiar with California wine, Washington wine might be a new discovery. Moreover, for those that do know that Washington State makes wine, they are likely thinking of damp, rainy Seattle. But, that’s not the real story. Rather, the majority of Washington grapes are grown east of the Cascade Mountains. What that means is that the cold, wet weather we associate with Seattle stays on the West Coast while the state’s interior provides desert-like conditions. In many cases, grape growing is made possible here due to irrigation. There is also a blend of wide, open land, mountains and hence, altitude, all of which impact the climate and growing conditions of these grapes.
Thanks to this climate, this is Cabernet and Syrah country, not Pinot Noir territory, which is a grape more appropriately correlated with Oregon. Consequently, while only three hours away from Seattle, Washington wine is truly a world away from one’s initial conception. Yet, as I recently discovered, there are many opportunities to become acquainted with these wines without having to travel too far.
Moreover, this is an exciting time for the state and its wines as it stands on a precipice for even further greatness. These are well made, balanced wines, representing good value, diversity and innovation. As I spent three days immersed in Washington wine, I grew more and more bullish about what is to come and treasured the interactions with the passionate people who are behind these amazing wines.
The Washington wine industry is definitely one to watch and I strongly recommend seeking these wines out if and when you have the opportunity. Admittedly, many of these wines never make it beyond the confines of the state, but if you find them at a retailer or restaurant near you, I highly encourage you to check them out.
Further, you can create an exciting, wine-oriented weekend (or longer) with visits to Woodinville or even Seattle, without the lengthier drive to the Columbia Valley and beyond.
Where to weekend: The Wonders of Woodinville
Situated 25 miles northeast of Seattle, Woodinville, WA was initially home to a logging industry which was then replaced by agriculture. Yet, today, none of that remains and, instead, the area has been thoroughly converted into the epicenter of Washington wine.
With its tagline, “Where Washington pours,” Woodinville is home to 120 wine tasting rooms representing 19 of 20 AVAs (American Viticultural Areas), 10 breweries and five distilleries. Sixty of those wineries actually produce wine in the Woodinville area while the remainder have their winemaking facilities elsewhere.
What makes Woodinville particularly unique is that it makes the wineries accessible to tourists who might be visiting Seattle for a short period of time such as on a business trip or before or after a cruise. This is a perfect foray into Washington wine with a plethora of tasting rooms and restaurants from which to choose. There is an incredible focus on hospitality and each tasting room has its own unique approach to serving guests, but all are excited to welcome you to taste their wines and enjoy the experience.
Woodinville got its start as a wine-centric town in 1976, when Chateau Ste Michelle established it’s beautiful French-style chateau winery building, vineyards and winemaking facilities there. It took some time for the area to catch on, but it is now in the midst of significant growth and expansion, yielding even more opportunities for people to learn about Washington wine and other state-centric products.
Within the town borders there are four main districts, each with its own personality and focus. Established about 15 years ago, the Warehouse District has become an incubator for up-and-coming producers and small batch productions. This is often a place for hobbyists to get their start. In contrast, the West Valley District has become more industrial and is home to the majority of distilleries and breweries.
Named for an old schoolhouse, which presently serves as the tasting room for Maryhill Winery, the Hollywood Hills District caters to tourism and will soon be home to a 22-acre project in development which will include a 128-room hotel called Somm, under Marriott’s Autograph Collection. The property will also include event space, dining facilities and a custom blending operation. This accommodation will join the existing boutique Willows Lodge, with its Barking Frog restaurant and luxury spa.
Most notably, the Downtown District has seen incredible investment in retail and residential real estate. In particular, the area has seen the building of 1,599 new housing units, including high-end apartments and single-family residences, which appeal to both retirees and young, tech folks. With close proximity to Redmond, Bellevue, Tacoma and Seattle (and thus the headquarters for Microsoft, Space X, Amazon, Costco and more), as well as skiing and other activities, there are many people interested in moving in. There are number of new tasting rooms here, too, such as the brand-new outpost for Rocky Pond Estate Winery.*
The job of shepherding and spearheading promotion of the area falls to Woodinville Wine Country and during my visit, I had the wonderful opportunity to meet Adam Acampora, who joined the organization earlier this year as Executive Director. His background is both on target and unusual coming from Tennessee where he ran the state wine program there, not a place most frequently associated with wine. But he is well versed in wine, marketing and hospitality and is well poised to lead the renaissance well underway.
As new restaurants (such as the newly opened Walla Walla Steak Co.*), wineries (L’Ecole 41* coming soon) and hotels continue to make the move to Woodinville, the town will become an even bigger draw for residents and tourists alike. This is truly a wonderful, weekend getaway to immerse yourself in Washington wine.
Where to weekend: Seattle Sips
If you are more pressed for time or simply don’t want to leave the confines of Seattle proper, you still have tasting options. First and foremost, most Seattle-area restaurants feature Washington wines on their menus, both by the glass and bottle. In particular, check out Purple Café, with locations in both downtown Seattle and Woodinville.
The historic Pioneer Square area counts itself as Seattle’s first neighborhood, incorporated in 1869. The area is currently home to two tasting rooms: Four Eleven Wine and Browne Family Vineyards.
The Four Eleven Wine lounge is collaboration between Bledsoe Family Winery* and Gramercy Cellars*, both of the Walla Walla Valley, who looked to find a shared tasting room on the West side of Washington State. The result is Four Eleven Wine. Open daily, the space offers a traditional tasting room experience until 5:00pm and wine seminars on Tuesday evenings, along with a wine bar and full retail selection of local and international wine selections.
Two doors down, situated in the 1906 Sellar Building, designed by architect A. Warren Gould, Brown Family Vineyards* opened their Seattle tasting room in 2017. The winery was inspired and named for William Bitner Browne, the late grandfather of proprietor Andrew Browne. The tasting room offers various tasting flights and is also available for private parties and events.
Just steps from Pike Place Market, The Tasting Room offers a selection of wines from winemaker owned wineries in the state. On any given day, over 60 different wines are available to taste in flights (four one-ounce pours) or by the glass. Open daily, with live music on Friday nights.
And, if you didn’t get enough wine while in Woodinville or in town, there’s always a final hurrah at the airport. Located in the Central Terminal and open daily 12pm – 9pm, Vyne Washington Tasting Room exclusively serves Washington state wines and was awarded “Best New Food and Beverage” full-service concept by the Airports Council International – North America.
Where in the world is Washington wine? It’s at the top of its game and hopefully in your glass. Now you just have to start planning your weekends away!
*NB: More to come in a future story or stories on these wineries and restaurants.
What’s in your glass? If you answered Merlot or Chardonnay, you’re only half right. The truth is that wine is a product of grapes and place (and to a slightly lesser extent, people), so what’s in your glass also includes where the grapes were grown and how those who made the wine chose to interpret them.
When I taught consumer wine classes on a regular basis, I used to have my “Great Grape” series, which I affectionately referred to as “Same Grape, Different Neighborhood”. In each class, I guided the group through a selection of wines all produced from the same grape variety (i.e. Chardonnays or Merlots), but which had been grown in different places around the world. The intention was to familiarize them with the general characteristics of a given grape, while providing them with concrete evidence of how climate, soil and winemaking techniques ultimately impacted the finished wine.
So I was extremely excited when I received the unusual invitation to similarly compare and contrast wines from Italy’s Alto Adigewith those from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. I had written about Alto Adige previously, having attended various seminars and also having visited the region, but this was a unique look for sure. The seminar, held at Manhatta Restaurant, was moderated by Laura Williamson, MS and mostly presented by Martin Foradori Hofstatter from Tenuta J. Hofstatter. Davide Ungaro from Cantina Bolzano, Remy Drabkin of Remy Wines and David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyards were also present to share about Willamette and its wines. Overall, the seminar itself was quite technical and, while interesting to the trade, the details of which are likely too mundane to share with the average wine consumer. Yet, it was a wonderful opportunity to use a unique lens to look at two fascinating and fabulous wine regions.
Ultimately, these two winegrowing regions have a lot in common, but, not surprisingly, produce different styles due to the differences underscored during the seminar such as climatic conditions (see chart below). In that vein, fans of one should definitely venture out and try the other. Moreover, they are both equally at home at the table and offer up diversity and a range of styles from which to choose. Love Pinot Grigio? Enjoy Alto Adige’s options tonight and Oregon’s tomorrow. No need to get stuck in a vinous rut.
At the end of the day, it’s all about high quality wines made by real people who are focused on understanding their land to craft the very best wines from it.
BY the NUMBERS… Comparing & Contrasting Top Grapes by Region
Remy Wines Fischerman’s Pinot Gris 2021, Yamhill-Carlton, OR From grapes sourced from the Walker Vineyard, on ungrafted vines, with notes of smoke, higher acidity, fresh, medium body, long length (lovely and fresh).
Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco 2019 Vorberg, Alto Adige Medium to full bodied, with medium acidity, red apple, slight citrus, and a hint of wood in the undercurrent. Long length.
Adelsheim Vineyards, Staking Claim Chardonnay 2019, Chehalem Mountains, OR Austere and elegant, with medium body, medium+ acidity, minerality, citrus and slight green apple, barely perceptible oak, and a slight reductive note.
Castel Juval Unterortl Pinot Nero Riserva 2018, Alto Adige Val Venosta From the most northly Pinot Noir vineyards of Alto Adige, this wine has aromas of cherries and fresh and dried herbs. Dry and fresh, with medium body, very herbal in undercurrent, earthy in the finish, with long length.
Tenuta J. Hofstatter Pinot Nero 2017, Alto Adige Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano Sourced from older parcels planted in 1962 and 1990, notes of earth, darker cherries and a hint of wood greet the nose. Fresh, fruit driven, with a slight herbal hint in the finish. This is a lighter style wine with lighter body but still good concentration of fruit.
Adelsheim Vineyards, Breaking Ground Pinot Noir 2019, Chehalem Mountains, OR This wine is blend of grapes grown on three different soil types in an effort to figure out how to make great wine. Of the two Adelsheim Pinots, this one is less ripe, with cherries and orange peel aromas. Dry, with medium acidity, medium body, cherry, herbs, and long length.
Adelsheim Vineyards, Quarter Mile Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018, Chehalem Mountains, OR This wine is more ripe, with a sweeter, jammier red fruit nose. The palate offers up riper fruit of rich cherries and spice with fuller body, and long length.
The Lagrein variety is related to Pinot Noir, but not sure of total origin, grape with lots of acid and aggressive tannins.
Cantina Bolzano Lagrein Riserva 2018 Taber Alto Adige This is a single vineyard wine, which underwent two years of aging, one of them in oak. It has an intense nose of black fruit and floral, with firm, medium++ tannins, medium+ body, and flavors of intense, concentrated candied violets and blueberry, culminating in long length.
Peter Zemmer Lagrein Riserva Furggl 2018, Alto Adige As a Riserva wine, this wine also spent two years aging, with six months in large oak vessels and 12 months in barriques. This wine has aromas of smoke and black fruit, and is more tannic with fuller body than the Cantina Bolzano Lagrein.
Remy Wines, Lagrein 2019, Dundee Hills, OR In addition to making wine from traditional Oregon varieties, Remy also focuses on those from Northern Italy, including Lagrein. Hers is floral, with tart cherry fruit, and oak notes, and full bodied with firm tannins.
Additional Wines Served with Lunch (more limited tasting notes)
With the First Course: Snap pea panzanella with grapefruit and pink peppercorn
Tenuta J. Hofstatter Barthenau Vigna S. Michele Pinot Bianco 2020 – tree and stone fruit
What’s the story, morning glory? As written previously, Chile is hot! And, as I discovered recently, it’s Sauvignon Blancs are really cool. These fresh, crisp white wines are a great option for summer especially with the heat waves we’ve experienced recently on both sides of the Atlantic.
But, more importantly, the story is that Chile is defining and refining what it wants to produce when it comes to Chilean Sauvignon Blanc.
Moreover, this grape is going gangbusters. First brought to Chile by Claudio Gray in 1841, it had a slow start. In fact, the variety represented only a small portion of vineyard plantings by the mid-2000s. Yet, it has seen a significant rise in plantings since that time, growing from 18,300 acres (Oxford Companion to Wine, 4th edition, Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, Oxford University Press, 2015) to 37,614 as of 2019 (Wines of Chile seminar, 7/26/2022). Today, Sauvignon Blanc represents Chile’s second most widely planted variety and accounts for 40% of all white grapes grown in the country with vines found mainly across the Coastal and Central Valley regions. This sustained growth period has been coincident with Chile’s increased expertise and knowledge.
In particular, it was Pablo Morandé of Viña Morandé who, influenced by cool climate whites from California’s Sonoma County, sought to recreate Chile’s own version, noticing how the cool breeze impacted the wines. He selected Sauvignon Blanc as his grape of choice and the Chilean Coastal Range as his terroir.
As more growers have gotten on board with this vision, the country has developed its own unique style of Sauvignon Blanc that is heavily influenced by the cool climate that Chile provides. Specifically, the vast 600-mile wide, Humboldt current that runs from Antarctica to the North Pole is responsible for cool temperatures (52-57°F), fog and morning mist that maintain high acidity, keep the pyrazines (which translate into herbaceous characteristics) and purity of fruit flavors.
Within Chile, the wineries are further delineating their regions and sub regions. As was heard by Sofia Araya of Veramonte (see story), there is a philosophical shift from grape to geography as the climate conditions now take center stage when considering what grapes to grow where and what style of wine is desired.
In this vein, there are three distinct Sauvignon Blanc growing regions: >>Coastal Sauvignon Blanc: Humboldt and Coastal Range These tend to be very herbaceous with jalapeno, grass and asparagus notes and high acid citrus including lime and lemon, along with full bodies with good acidity. >>Inland Sauvignon Blanc: Central Valley and the Andes Slopes A slightly warmer climate, this area produces Sauvignon Blancs with more grapefruit and topical fruit notes. >>Southern Sauvignon Blanc: The Deep South – Patagonia and Bio Bio These wines typically have really high acidity due to the soil and climate.
The finished wines are further impacted by the diversity of soils within the Coastal Range. For example, Casablanca has iron and marcillo soils, while Limari is dominant in limestone and granite.
As a result, there is a recognizable thread that runs through all of these wines, while each has its own unique flavor profile and attributes, due to microclimates as well as different winemaking approaches.
And, as Chilean winemakers seek to produce for the higher end of the market, these are wines with complexity, concentration and balance. Admittedly, they share the same DNA as New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs and Sancerre, but they offer their own, distinct style, character and expression.
At a recent virtual seminar, members of the wine press were given the opportunity to taste through a selection of eight Coastal Range Sauvignon Blancs, learning more about these wines from Joaquín Hidalgo of Vinous.com, an authority on South American wines as well as about Chile’s market in general from Julio Alonso, Executive Director USA for Wines of Chile.
TASTING NOTES
Viña Morandé Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $20 Pablo Morandé is a pioneer in the area. This is a single vineyard in the warmest part of Casablanca, away from ocean. The wine displays high acidity, with lime, lemon and a slightly woody note.
Matetic Vineyards EQ Coastal Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $20 This family owned winery practices organic viticulture and is situated in the Rosario Valley of Casablanca. There is black mica in the soils. The wine is predominantly citrus and white nectarine, with some salinity.
Casas del Bosque La Cantera Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $18 Hailing from the coldest spot in Casablanca, closest to the ocean, this wine is very fresh, concentrated and expressive, undergoing lees contact, with notes of grapefruit and herbs.
Montes Wines Limited Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $15 With grapes sourced from Leyda, close to the Pacific Ocean, this fresh wine shows very lemony in character with good acidity and minerality.
Viña Koyle Costa La Flor Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $18 An organic and biodynamic producer, this is situated in San Antonio, Leyda. The wine has more weight and soil presence on the palate, with riper apricot and tropical fruit flavors.
Viña Garcés Silva Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $25 Also from Leyda, this wine has well integrated acidity and fresh flavors of citrus, herbs, white flowers with some lees contact.
Ventisquero Wine Estates Grey Sauvignon Blanc 2019 / SRP $25 These grapes are grown in granitic and gravel soils along the Huasco River in the Atacama Desert, one of the driest places on earth. The wine is aged over its lees for ten months in large foudres to soften the wine, with offers up lots of lime, minerality and salinity.
Viña Tabalí Talinay Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $24 Next to the ocean near the Limari River, these grapes are also grown in desert conditions. This wine is citrus dominant with a distinct herbal undercurrent.
Chile is no longer just about cheap and cheerful wines. As my experiences at recent dinners with Chilean winemakers and their wines can attest, Chile as a wine producing country is all grown up and has become quite precocious. While there is still a wealth of options under $20 retail, Chile is starting to craft and export higher end wines, building on its historic vinous legacy.
European grape vines have been grown in Chile since the mid-16th century, when the Spanish conquistadores brought them over with the intention of making Communion wine for their settlers. The vines flourished in the country and continued to be cultivated widely, earning Chile a reputation for quantity over quality in the 18th century.
Yet, an interesting development came in 1830 when the Chilean government created an experimental nursery for botanical selections, which became known as the Quinta Normal. The nursery included vine cuttings of the European species, which would ultimately help combat phylloxera, providing European nations with clean root stock from which to propagate new vines. Moreover, due to its isolation from the rest of the world, along with favorable climatic conditions, phylloxera never became an issue in Chile.
Additionally, while the initial plantings were predominantly Pais and Moscatel, in the 1850s, wealthy Chileans began to plant more classic, world-renowned grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and others. Concurrently, many French winemakers emigrated to Chile to escape the phylloxera crisis, bringing their winemaking knowledge and experience to the Chilean wine industry.
With this boon of clean vines and qualified winemakers, Chile soon emerged as “the world’s only healthy wine industry, both viticulturally and financially…” (Oxford Companion to Wine, 4th edition, Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, Oxford University Press, 2015). That success continued throughout the 20th century, but the tides began to turn in the 1970s and 80s as domestic consumption waned considerably and vines were ripped out since the industry was no longer the profitable enterprise it once was.
However, this downturn was short-lived and by the late 1980s through the mid-90s, significant plantings and investment were being made. Concurrently, the Chileans began to look externally for markets and soon found success as an exporter, firmly establishing itself in the world wine market.
Today, Chile is the sixth-largest wine producer in the world* and, in 2021, it became the third largest source of imported wines (bulk and bottled) shipped to the U.S.#. And, while much of that success was initially predicated on the low end of the market, things have taken a dramatic shift as of late, as more Chilean wines are competing in the super-premium and luxury categories.
More specifically, as Julio Alonso, Executive Director USA for Wines of Chile, recently stated, “…one of the most significant long-term trends has been the entry of Chilean wines at the luxury level,” which is backed up by the numbers: Chilean wines registered an increase of 56% in the $50-$100 segment (aka luxury category) and 62% in the $100-plus category (Nielsen IQ, 52 weeks through Nov. 6, 2021) super luxury and icon categories. [For a detailed look at U.S. wine pricing segments, see this page.]
So, what’s happening on the ground to drive these changes? A lot. The industry has come of age both vinously and viticulturally. The current crop of Chilean winemakers have the skills, experience and world view, while Chilean wine brands now have proven histories and sufficient resources. Equally important, the vineyards have been carefully cultivated with newfound knowledge as to what does and doesn’t work.
Felipe Tosso and Sofia Araya
By way of example, both Veramonte and Ventisquero have been actively engaged in establishing high quality vines in new terroirs, experimenting with classic and modern winemaking and finding their stride with Carménère.
Ventisquero, founded in 1998 by business man Gonzalo Vial, has always been at the forefront of the Chilean wine industry. The brand encourages its winemakers to pursue an innovative spirit that combines curiosity, creative freedom, a willingness to take risks, and an intense exploration of the senses. Accordingly, its winemakers are given the latitude to experiment and challenge the established way of doing things.
At the helm is Head winemaker Felipe Tosso who was recently chosen as Winemaker of the Year 2022 by Tim Atkin. This year, Felipe celebrated his 22nd harvest with Ventisquero and has an extensive and varied background with stints in Napa, Sonoma, Barossa and Bordeaux, among others. Adding to his expertise, in 2003, Felipe began to collaborate with John Duval, former winemaker of Penfold’s Grange, which has been a beneficial and rewarding partnership for both of them.
Further, as the son of researchers, Felipe approaches winemaking with a scientific view. In this regard, he asked: How do you make wine in the simplest way? Building on this question, he looked to natural winemaking as the answer. He notes that the concept wasn’t as popular when they started, but even though he may not have used that term to describe what they were doing at the time, they’ve always been natural winemakers in practice.
With his depth and breadth of knowledge, Felipe knows how to make wine, but of perhaps greater importance, it is a true passion for him. As he shared, “We make wine for the fun of making wine. When you have confidence, you can create the wines you love.” It is this confidence that shows through in the wines he has been pursuing, which are decidedly at the higher end of the market.
Similarly, Sofia Araya, head winemaker for Veramonte, has been an important force in Chilean wine, most notably as a huge driver in organic viticulture. After graduating from la Universidad de Chile, the Chilean-born winemaker spent her early career working for big name brands, using conventional agriculture. When she arrived at Veramonte, the company began to make investments in the Casablanca Valley. They quickly realized that it didn’t make sense to work these vineyards conventionally, so they switched to organic practices.
Ultimately, it was her strong conviction in the resulting quality that sold her on implementing such practices elsewhere. As she reminded us, “Wine is made in the vineyards.” The transition to organics began in 2012, with full certification received in 2016. Since then, she has been involved with transitioning over 1,235 acres to 100% ECOCERT certified organic vineyards, which accounts for 15% of all organic vineyards in Chile.
Beyond general viticulture practices, Sofia has focused on matching different locations with different grapes and implementing various strategies to ultimately produce the best wines. Her essential aim is to create wines that transmit a sense of place in the glass. While this is true of her entry level wines, it takes on a deeper meaning as she turns her attention to regional expressions, which display more complexity and require more technical applications such as the intricacies of barrel fermentation.
To this end, her Ritual wines are sourced from vineyards in the Casablanca Valley, relying on the cold influences from the Pacific ocean to maintain bright acidity and freshness in the grapes. Here, she sought to overcome preconceived ideas about Sauvignon Blanc in crafting her wine. Additionally, the grapes are hand-picked and kept on their stems to impart structure, develop mouthfeel and be able to take (old) oak during the aging process.
In approaching her Ritual Pinot Noir, she selects grapes from the better blocks and treats them to a native fermentation, yielding a totally different, more elegant wine than previous iterations. Interestingly, she notes that it was the Pinot that showed the most significant changes with the shift to organic.
Like Veramonte, Ventisquero is also taking viticultural innovation to heart. It has vast vineyard holdings and has implemented sustainability practices throughout the entire process and is also exploring the intricacies of climate and soils. In particular, its vineyards run nearly the full length of Chile from the Atacama Desert up north to Patagonia in the south. With plantings situated within six different regions, they are able to explore the unique terroir of each vineyard through precision soil mapping and terroir-focused replanting.
Case in point is their Tara Chardonnay which is produced from grapes grown in the Atacama Desert. While a true desert in its lack of moisture, this is a cool climate region, with significant exposure to the Pacific Ocean due to the lack of coastal range in this area. Consequently, the fog rolls in each morning, keeping the vineyards in the 50-75o F range. The result is a Chardonnay that is not very “Chardonnay-like”. In fact, it tastes more like a Sauvignon Blanc and was originally labeled as White Wine #1. The hand-harvested grapes are pressed by feet, and then matured in stainless steel for 15 months, with sur lie aging. Previously made without sulfites, with the 4th vintage, they are using a small amount to prevent oxidation.
Ventisquero’s Las Terrazas vineyard in the Leyda Valley sits only four miles from the cold Pacific Ocean, serving as the perfect climate for cultivating Pinot Noir. In speaking about his Grey Pinot Noir, Felipe admits that sometimes the decisions you make are not technical in nature, but rather are made by trial and error. With the 2017 vintage, the Pinot Noir was whole bunch pressed and fermented in small vessels with no filtration.
Both wineries have also been at the forefront of establishing the newly minted (as of May 2018) DO Apalta and are two of only six wineries permitted to cultivate on the hillsides here, capturing the sunlight. Located in Colchagua, which is part of the Rapel region, the 1,007 hectares are farmed both organically and biodynamically and reflect the country’s growing focus on defined terroirs.
In addition to the increased emphasis on regional identity, another important shift in the Chilean wine landscape has been the recognition of what grapes are actually being grown in the vineyards. Prior to 1994, Carménère vines were confused with those of Merlot, but now that it has been correctly identified, it is being embraced as a singularly Chilean variety, gaining respect and an understanding for how to grow and produce this grape. Along these lines, Felipe has been an early proponent of the variety, gaining significant experience working with Carménère from its initial discovery and has become the go-to guy for this grape ever since. As Felipe explained, “My soul is Chilean… we have a variety that is unique to Chile and we need to make it work.”
Specifically, at Ventisquero, Carménère is cultivated in the Trinidad Vineyard in Maipo Valley region as well as in the La Robleria vineyard in Apalta. Felipe started making the Grey Carménère from this single block (which is known as #5 and adjacent to the winery), 20 years ago. With its history as a co-planted vineyard, at the moment, the vineyard is 50% Carménère and 50% Merlot, with the vines painted to distinguish each variety since there are only two times a year that the difference is distinctly visible.
Sofia also believes in the value of Carménère and adds that it is a variety that needs time and heat to truly thrive. Older vines, previously mixed in with Merlot, are now being revered for their longevity and quality. In addition, she shared that, “Over time, we have learned to work with Carménère. We really understand it now,” and the resulting wines are not so green and herbal in character as they once were.
Beyond crafting varietally labeled Carménère, both wineries also use it in blends, which was a significant departure from status quo. At Veramonte, the Primus The Blend brings together Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah and was initially created at a time when blending wine was unthinkable. Named Primus, which means “first” in Latin, it was the first “Meritage” wine in Chile.
Ventisquero’s entry in this category is known as Vertice and it’s a special project bringing the Carménère Guy (Felipe) together with the Syrah expertise of John Duval. Named for the vertex of the slope, the vineyard sits at the top of a hillside, surrounded by Chilean oak trees. Felipe and John pursue classical winemaking with whole bunch maceration, a long fermentation, and one month on the skins, followed by malolactic fermentation in the barrel and two years of oak aging. In analyzing the final blend, Felipe focuses on texture while John evaluates the tannin.
Building on these innovative successes, Felipe and Sofia continue to push the envelope in high end Chilean wine. In this regard, Ventisquero’s flagship wine, Pangea, was the first collaboration with John Duval. As they reviewed the La Robleria Vineyard site in Apalta, the two winemakers decided that the vineyard was best for Syrah, not Cabernet Sauvignon, mapping the vineyards and analyzing soil selection. The wine represents the spirit of Syrah and the union of the world in that Syrah has traveled around the world. Moreover, the finished wine is a product of various soil types, more than 20 different fermentations and 20 different coopers, all of which must be agreed upon 100% by both John and Felipe. Curiously, Felipe agrees with John more often than John’s wife agrees with him.
Meanwhile, it took ten years before they finally found the quality of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes they desired and could create the Enclave Cabernet Sauvignon, which they describe as a Chilean Bordeaux-style blend. With their commitment to quality, the wine is aged for two years in barrel and then another four years in bottle before release to give the tannins time to soften.
At its zenith, Veramonte’s Neyen wines are crafted from very old vines on their original, pre-phylloxera root stocks in Apalta. The limited production wine (only 12,000 bottles) features a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère, the proportions of which vary from vintage to vintage. Most recently, they also launched a 100% Malbec produced from similarly aged vines.
As is evident with these wineries and winemakers, Chile has come a long way since it first entered the world wide wine market. Chilean wines are turning heads and palates with high end, high quality wines. Chilean winemakers are returning to their roots and traditional practices, trusting their instincts and are focused on sustainability, all of which has resulted in beautifully, well-made wines that have definitely come of age.
Ritual Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Casablanca Valley, Chile, $21.00 Fresh citrus with a woody, herbal hint, this wine has medium+ body, good acidity, with more citrus than herbal notes, culminating in long length.
Tara Chardonnay 2017, Huasco Valley, Atacama Desert, Chile, $34.00 Displaying lots of minerality and citrus, this wine is very fresh, with medium body and long length.
Ritual Pinot Noir 2017, Casablanca Valley, Chile, $21.00 Herbs and red fruit on the nose. Dry palate with medium acidity and medium body. The wine is lean and elegant with long length.
Gray Pinot Noir 2017, Las Terrazas Vineyard, Leyda Valley, Chile $25.00 Very earthy on the palate, this is a beautiful, elegant wine with good acidity and long length.
Primus Carménère 2018, Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile. $21.00 Very herbal, with red fruit aromas and flavors, good tannins, full body, a rich, generous wine, with mocha, cinnamon and a silky texture.
Grey Carménère 2018, Trinidad Vineyard, Maipo Valley, Chile, $25.00 Long aging of 18months, with only 20% new oak, the 2018 is the freshest vintage. Redolent of ripe black fruits and earthiness, with long length.
Primus The Blend, Apalta, Colchagua Valley. Chile, $21.00 Aromas of black fruit and floral notes, with full body, medium acidity, ripe tannins, and long length, the wine is lush and generous.
Ventisquero Vertice 2019, La Robleria Vineyard, Apalta, ColchaguaValley, Chile, $34.00 A blend of 52% Carménère and 48% Syrah, this wine displays depth, power and finesse.
Ventisquero Pangea 2014, La Robleria Vineyard, Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile, $59.00 This 100% Syrah is intense and still tannic, but was a lovely expression of Syrah with earth, red fruit and complexity.
Ventisquero Enclave Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Pirque, Maipo Valley, Chile, $69.00 A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, 4% Carménère and 3% Cabernet Franc, this wine spends two years in barrel and 4 years in bottle before release and is well balanced and well structured.
Neyen,Espiritu de Apalta,Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile, $65.00 Bringing together 130 year old Cabernet Sauvignon and and 80 year old Carménère, which are blended before aging, this wine offers up red fruit, with complexity, ripe tannins, oak, power, elegance and long length.
Neyen Malbec 2019, Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile, $150.00 Spicy and elegant with aromas and flavors of black fruits, violet and lavender, with good complexity and very long length.
Happy Summer! It’s that time of the year when I finally venture outdoors and partake in my favorite pastime – picnics! While I got off to a good start, it’s been a bit quiet lately, but I am looking forward to the holiday weekend to make up for lost time. Regardless, I am super excited about some of my newfound picnic discoveries.
We kicked off the summer season in late April (yes, it is a stretch and it was especially windy on the date in question, but anyway …) with Bisol’s anniversary celebration. This historic Prosecco Superiore producer (see previous stories on Prosecco Superiore here) dates from 1542 and has a member of the 21st generation, Gianluca Bisol, at its helm. The event was held at the Lemon Rooftop in NYC’s Hudson Yards, with its spectacular views of the Hudson River. With free-flowing sparkling wine, guests were provided with the wonderful opportunity to taste through a selection of their Proseccos including: *Bisol Crede, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG *Jeio Brut, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG *Jeio Prosecco Rosé DOC NB: Rosé has only recently been approved to be included in the Prosecco DOC and is not permitted for the DOCG.
While you can enjoy these wines anytime of year, the effervescent nature of the wines and celebratory nature of the event, with its great music, good food and delicious wines, were a festive reminder that summer and lighter times were just around the corner.
I am also a bit in love with wines in can from Domaine Bousquet (which I’ve written about previously), which are perfect for their portion control and portability. These lightweight, aluminum cans of 100% certified organic wine are a great option for picnics, beaches that permit alcohol and any other outdoor activities where food and wine are welcome. Plus, they cool quickly and add a lovely flair to your al fresco meals with their food friendly nature and freshness.
A blend of Pinot Noir, Syrah, Pinot Gris and Viognier, Le Petit Verre Bubbly Rosé is slightly effervescent, and offers up lovely citrus and berry notes, with bright acidity on the dry and balanced palate, with long length.
The Le Petit Verre Malbec delivers ripe black fruit aromas and flavors, with good acidity and some complexity, culminating in long length. It was a perfect foil for my BBQ burger craving over Memorial Day Weekend.
These Argentine wines hail from Tupungato,vineyards in the Mendoza region. At an SRP of $13.00 for a four-pack, each 250-ml can provides approximately a glass and a half of wine, at roughly $3.50 per can.
And finally, it was a pleasure to taste two wines from Monte Velho, which provided yet another reminder that Portuguese wines provide great value and great taste. These wines are produced in the Alentejo region and are wonderful examples of indigenous Portuguese varieties. Here, blending has a long history, but today’s wineries are bringing a more modern approach with the deliberate planting of varieties in specific vineyards, rather than relying on the field blends of yesteryear.
A blend of Antão Vaz, Perrum, and Roupeiro, the Monte Velho White 2021 is clean and fresh with medium to full body, with good concentration of ripe white fruits and citrus on the dry palate, with briny minerality and long length.
The Monte Velho Rosé 2021 brings together Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Syrah, Trincadeira and Tinta Caiada, and Arinto, yielding a wine with fresh strawberry and raspberry notes, and a hint of herbaceousness. With medium acidity, medium body and long length, this dry wine was both refreshing and food friendly.
Both wines retail at $12.00/bottle and are certified vegan by the European Vegetarian Union. Moreover, they are shipped in eco-friendly packaging with lighter-weight bottles and 100% varnish-free, recycled cardboard.
I hope these wines inspire your own al fresco dining this summer season!
The desert-like landscape of Eastern Washington state is a far cry from the cityscape view from the 60th floor of Manhatta restaurant in New York City. Yet, the two came together beautifully at a recent dinner welcoming the Washington wine industry and members of the press for a long overdue visit.
Assembled in the room, we were introduced to Sadie Drury, vineyard manager/ viticulturist of Seven Hills Vineyard; Alex Stewart and Hal Iverson, two of the three winemakers at Matthews Winery; and Matt and Kelly Austin, owners/winemakers at Grosgrain Vineyards.
While the focus was decidedly on Washington wine, it was clear that everyone was ready to reconnect after the lengthy absence due to the pandemic. It was a pleasure to linger over conversations, foster new friendships and simply enjoy time together over a glass of wine… things we had all missed over the past several years.
And it was a special opportunity to renew my acquaintance with this wine region and expand my knowledge. While I have been aware of Washington wine for some time and understand the basics from a big picture perspective, it is a region with which I am less familiar. With over 1,000 wineries in the state, 90% of them producing less than 5,000 cases annually, our local wine shop shelves predominantly feature wines from the larger estates, thereby telling only a fraction of the story.
Thus, despite being the second largest wine producer in the U.S., this jewel in America’s wine crown is perhaps less recognizable to many wine consumers than California, Oregon or even New York. Yet, this is indeed a region worth knowing and is definitely one to watch. While Hal jokingly referred to Washington’s past as having once been the “wild, wild west”, it was clear that the state is distinguishing itself as a high quality, innovative wine region.
Still in its nascent phase (the majority of wineries didn’t get started until after 2001), the state’s grape growers and winemakers are embracing their innovative spirit. Taking advantage of a blank slate, there are no rules as to what can be grown or what can be produced; there is no signature to follow. Moreover, there is still a lot of trial and error, as newcomers investigate novel (to the region) grapes and winemaking production methods. Given this bent toward experimentation, not surprisingly, folks are reluctant to hang their hat on a single grape. Consequently, Washington holds lots of potential, with its current influx of energy, enthusiasm and outside investment.
Equally important, they recognize the need for flexibility and adaptation. As one of the winemakers said during our dinner, “If you are stuck in your ways, it won’t work.” This is especially true given the recent climatic shifts that they have endured over the past several vintages. In particular, in 2021 they experienced a heat dome event, forcing them to pick very late, based on taste instead of Brix levels or other numerical values. Plus, they found unusual situations with potassium due to the excessive heat, which had an interesting impact on the grapes and wines with regard to their pH, resulting in more alkaline, savory wines. They anticipate the need to pivot on a regular basis going forward. Case in point, the 2022 vintage is expected to be much cooler.
This desire for innovation and enterprise was immediately evident upon arrival, when we were welcomed with a pour of Grosgrain Les Collines Vineyard Sémillon Pétillant Naturel 2020. This sparkling wine offered up beautiful effervescence with a dry palate and was a great introduction to this winery with its unusual treatment of this variety. With a relatively romantic origin story, Matthew Austin and his wide Kelly saw the movie Sideways on their first date, inspiring a joint dream to open their own winery. They eventually left their previous careers, bought property in Walla Walla at a bankruptcy auction and launched Grosgrain Vineyards in 2018, adding a second vineyard on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla valley shortly after.
As further evidence of the pair’s love of trying new things such as unique grape varieties and techniques, we tasted their Grosgrain Philips Vineyard Albariño. Additionally, a Traditional Method sparkling wine produced from Cava grapes is planned. With a focus on sustainability measures in the winery, they use light weight bottles, which purposely don’t sport a capsule on the neck.
With a much lengthier tenure in the state, Matthews Winery was established in 1993. While the winery is situated on the west side of Cascade Mountains, they source grapes from sustainably farmed vineyards in the Columbia Valley and Walla Walla Valley and have established long-term contracts with their growers, nurturing relationships as part of their sustainability practices. Matthews is primarily known for its Bordeaux varieties and Bordeaux-style blends. Harvesting at high ripeness, they describe their style as one pushing extraction. They do use new oak but Alex clarified that there are a wide variety of options available to them ranging from grain texture, vessel capacity, and toast strength and aim to use oak sparingly and thoughtfully.
Equally important to these stories are the farmers who grow the grapes, which is why it was such a treat to meet Sadie. Although she comes from a farming family, she is the first to grow grapes in her lineage. She talked about the vaunted Seven Hills Vineyard under her jurisdiction and we were given the opportunity to taste the literal fruits of her labor.
First planted in 1980 and later expanded, Seven Hills was one of the first commercial vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley and now encompasses over 200 acres. Jointly owned among three wineries who produce wines from 50% of the annual harvest, the remainder is sold to more than 25 other premium wineries. Sadie has overseen the vineyard for ten years and explained that it provides every orientation, high elevations, and is generally self-regulating.
Overall, it was a perfect evening, full of great conversations, delicious cuisine and fabulous wines. In many ways, Washington state wines are still figuring things out, but they are certainly not a diamond in the rough. These vinous gems are definitely worth seeking out!
TASTING NOTES
The Grosgrain Philips Vineyard Albariño Albariño 2021 is farmed organically and then fermented in a combination of concrete eggs, neutral oak and stainless steel. It displayed good acidity with medium body, green apple aromas, lovely minerality and long length.
In describing their Grosgrain Los Rocosos Vineyard Grenache 2018, Matthew finds Grenache to be similar to Pinot in that it reflects the place it is grown. Theirs is fresh, with savory and gamey characteristics, low alcohol and long length.
Matthews Winery 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Barrel Sample Fermented in oak (85% of which was new), this wine is dry, rich, round, with medium acidity, medium to full body, with ripe citrus, and depth and complexity, culminating in long length.
We also tasted 2021 barrel samples of Matthews Winery’s Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blends from the Columbia Valley. Both were well balanced, with lush fruit, herbaceous notes and good acidity.
The Grosgrain Seven Hills Vineyard Syrah 2019 was produced in a cool, delicate, Rhone style, with no new oak and the intention of being a very food friendly wine. It was stunning, with ripe tannins, good fruit character, bright acidity and long length.
I had previously tasted the L’Ecole No. 41 Perigee 2018(albeit a different vintage) and it was a pleasure to become reacquainted with this wine as well as taste the Pepper Bridge Seven Hills Vineyard Bordeaux blend 2019. Both are Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy blends with fruit from the Seven Hills Vineyard, with structure, power and intensity, yet still retaining elegance.
For more on Washington wine, see this previous post.
“Everything is based on relationships.” ~ Erica Crawford
As Erica Crawford of Loveblock Wine stated early on in the evening, “Everything is based on relationships…” which is how a South African medical researcher ended up in New Zealand and ultimately became part of the New Zealand wine industry. In sharing her back story, Erica talked about that first, vital relationship when she met “a Kiwi bloke” at a wine fair in Cape Town, a theme that resonated throughout our time together.
After emigrating to New Zealand and marrying Kim Crawford (the aforementioned “Kiwi bloke”), Erica pursued pharmaceutical sales while her husband established his winemaking career. The two eventually started the eponymously named Kim Crawford winery, building a successful business and brand and selling it in 2003. As a condition of the sale, they had to wait several years before they could resume their life in the industry.
The following year, Erica fell in love with the view of a vineyard situated within the Awatere Valley of New Zealand’s Marlborough region, making the purchase with proceeds from the sale. She appropriately named it Loveblock, which gave name to their next venture, Loveblock Wine, which they launched once the embargo was lifted.
I first met Erica in May 2016, when she was in town to share her Loveblock wines with members of the NYC wine press (see previous post). Back in New York City in May 2022 after a lengthy hiatus, Erica once again met with wine journalists, this time at the newly opened Vinyl Steakhouse.
Over dinner, we talked about the relationship between wine and food. Perusing the menu, Erica recommended the potato croquettes, chosen for having been fried, as a perfect foil for her Pinot Gris. She also suggested that we try the shrimp cocktail, crab cakes and the crispy sushi roll. Not surprisingly, her selections were spot on and we all enjoyed the appetizers with the wine.
We next talked about the relationship between farming and the environment. Upon purchase of the Loveblock land, Erica and Kim decided to plant the vineyard utilizing organic farming practices, which they had already begun to embrace in their diet. Today, their Anchor Estate Vineyard is certified organic by BioGro New Zealand. Moreover, as grape growers and winemakers, they are deeply rooted in sustainability and have inculcated this approach into all that they do. They refer to their philosophy as the “’triple bottom line’ concept: (Profit People Place)”.
As we moved on to our main courses, we talked about music, having fun with Vinyl Steakhouse’s collection of… vinyl. Choosing records from Lou Reed, Stevie Nicks and others, we reminisced about our teenage years and the music that accompanied them.
And eventually we talked about wine. In fact, Erica has to be prompted several times to talk about the individual wines because we have become so engrossed in other conversations.
As noted, we kicked off the meal with the Pinot Gris 2020 from Marlborough. Erica advised us that there has been increased interest in New Zealand Pinot Gris, which made me very happy since I had really enjoyed the Pinot Gris wines I had tasted in New Zealand during my visit in 2011. She clarified that they are crafting wines that provide an alternate option to Pinot Grigio, since theirs is more similar in style to Oregon Pinot Gris. For her, the wine is great as an aperitif and walks the tightrope of sugar and alcohol, while providing good fruit flavor. As I taste it, it is lush on the palate, with good acidity, medium body and notes of almond, pear and citrus, with long length.
We then turned our attention to the two Sauvignon Blancs Erica had brought. The first was the Sauvignon Blanc 2020, which is a relatively typical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with fresh herbal characteristics joined by fresh citrus fruit, but with less pronounced notes than other NZ SBs. Erica describes it as being broader on the palate with pineapple, peach and cilantro notes, highlighting this latter aroma as making it a great option to pair with greens, especially kale, which can be a tricky wine partner.
Next up is their newest creation: Tee Sauvignon Blanc 2021. As its origin story, the intent was to keep sulfur levels low, but prevent oxidation. As a solution, they discovered a green tea additive in powder form that blocks the enzymes that cause oxidation in wine. In this way, they are able to produce not just a wine made with organic grapes, but actually a certified organic wine that is stable. This latter point is particularly important.
As a result, they have created a completely different iteration of Sauvignon Blanc. Depicted by Erica as having more mandarin, starfruit and spice aromas, the wine is also lower in acidity, yet richer than the first Sauvignon Blanc. It was really intriguing and exciting to taste this wine with its depth and structure, thanks to the tannins from the green tea as well as the six hours of skin contact that the wine received. It culminated in very long length and was my favorite wine of the night.
Our final wine of the evening was the Pinot Noir 2020 produced from fruit grown in Central Otago. This was really lovely with smoke, herbs, cherry and lots of earthiness on the medium bodied palate, along with nice, ripe tannins and good length.
Even though we were at a steakhouse, I opted to forgo the filet mignon and went with the scallops, accompanied by cauliflower purée and crispy prosciutto. It paired beautifully with both the Tee Sauvignon Blanc and the Pinot Noir.
At the end of the night, we were all reluctant to leave having renewed our relationships among Erica and ourselves. And that is everything.
Austrian wines are less well-known than those from say Italy or Spain, but they are definitely deserving of one’s attention. Austria had a wine scandal back in the 1980s, but with swift action, the implementation of stringent production laws and a re-dedication to quality, the country came back stronger than ever. Since then, further steps toward quality wine production, such as the creation of the DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) system in 2001, which designates regions, grape varieties and general typicity.
Home to three quality wine regions: Niederosterreich, Burgenland and Steiermark, there is a rich diversity in climate, soil and typicity among Austrian wines. Yet, they are all firmly focused on producing the highest quality.
Moreover, given the need to walk the straight and narrow in the wake of the scandal, for decades winemakers stuck to a completely clean style of winemaking, ensuring the consumer that their wines were fresh and unadulterated. Yet, today, with renewed consumer support and trust, winemakers have felt the leeway to experiment with more modern techniques and new styles, resulting in more diversity and modernity.
A recent tasting at Café Katja in New York’s Lower East Side was the perfect setting in which to receive a more formal introduction to the diversity of Austrian wine and, in particular, to Burgenland’s reds and whites. More specifically, the options offered up a sampling of different wine styles, both traditional and modern. With this aim, four different flights, each paired with a different dish prepared by Chef Erwin Schrottner, provided an opportunity to taste a selection of whites, lighter reds, heavier reds and a dessert wine alongside traditional Austrian cuisine.
Within Burgenland, the majority (52%) of vineyards are found nestled around the shallow Lake Neusiedler, which has an important climatic influence on the vines, moderating what would otherwise be a continental climate. This area is known primarily for its reds, which account for 56% of plantings, with Blaufrankisch and Zweigelt taking the top two spots. The cooler southern section of Burgenland is known more for its fresh, white wines. And, although international varieties are found in the region, the emphasis is on indigenous varieties, which might be challenging to pronounce, but are a pleasure to drink.
FLIGHT 1 The dill cured salmon with shaved cucumber and sour cream was presented with four whites: *Zantho Gruner Veltliner 2020 *Thomas Straka Welschriesling Rechnitz 2020 *Kolfok Vulkan Alte Reben Gruner Veltliner 2019 *Heinrich Naked White 2018 (a blend of Chardonnay, Pnot Blanc, Muscat and Pinot Grigio)
The Naked White was my favorite pairing with the salmon for its smokiness, which echoed the smokiness in the cured fish, along with its freshness that cut through the oil of the fish.
In keeping with the shift toward less clean wine styles, two of the whites had been oak aged and one had a reductive quality to it.
FLIGHT 2 Roasted Moulard Duck with red cabbage and dumpling was paired with four “red delights”: *Kolfok Querschnitt Rotburger & Co 2019 *Nitenhaus Blaufrankisch 2017 *Hareter Pinot Noir ohne 2018 *Falstaff Das Federviech Zweigelt Reserve 2018
I preferred the Pinot Noir with the duck for its gaminess, which matched nicely with the duck, but was very intrigued by the freshness of the Querschnitt, which utilized carbonic maceration in its production.
In this initial introduction to Austrian reds, we were advised that Blaufrankisch is usually more tannic than Zweigelt.
FLIGHT 3 Dry aged sirloin with vegetable linguine, cheese dumplings and a Zweigelt reduction was the last savory dish, served with: *Prieler Blaufrankisch Johanneshohe 2018 *Iby Ried Hochäcker Blaufränkisch 2018 *Jalits Ried Diabas Blaufrankisch 2017 *Eichenwald Ried Durrau Blaufrankisch 2017
Here, my pick was the Prieler, which was just lovely and had sufficient fruit, body and tannins to balance with the sirloin.
FLIGHT 4 A duo of chocolate mousse (white and dark), brandied cherries and pistachios was the final course. Featured with the “sought after” flight, it was accompanied by two reds and a dessert wine. In truth, I only enjoyed the dessert with the dessert wine, being very sensitive to the need for a wine to be as sweet (if not sweeter) than the food.
*Prieler Blaufrankisch Ried Mariental 2017 *Eichenwald, THE OAK Cuvee 2017 (a blend of Blaufrankisch, Zweigelt, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) *Heidi Schrock Ruster Ausbruch 2018 On the Wings of Dawn
While I did not enjoy these two reds with the food pairing, I did find them to be enjoyable overall and an example of some of the higher end reds coming out of Austria today. In this regard, the Prieler Blaufrankisch Ried Mariental 2017 garnered 97 points from Wine Enthusiast and retails at $108/bottle.
The botrytized Ruster Aubruch was lovely with honeyed sweetness, yet sufficient acidity to keep it from being too cloying and was a nice foil with dessert.
The key takeaway for me was that Austrian wines and especially those from Burgenland, offer up great quality, diversity and food-friendly options. There is a lot to learn (and, for the average consumer maybe too much), but ask your trusted wine associate to help guide you on your next trip to the wine store and you’ll open up a whole new world of wines.
With the first vineyard planted in 1973 by a young, starry-eyed couple fresh out of Harvard, the first seeds (or rather vines) of the Long Island wine region were sown. That couple, Louisa and Alex Hargrave, were true pioneers, bringing vision and bravado to their newly purchased farm. Much like the early English settlers that preceded them, Alex and Louisa came to the task with limited knowledge, but unlimited passion and drive, pushing them to succeed where others were sure they would fail. Before long, they were joined in their efforts by other adventurous souls, all of whom were in love with wine. As time flew by, a fledgling wine region was born, eventually becoming an internationally recognized producer of quality wine.
Today, there are 48 winery members of Long Island Wine Country, situated among the North Fork, South Fork (aka The Hamptons) and Long Island’s Western Suffolk County. The region has garnered repeated praise in both consumer and trade publications. Moreover, the bucolic region has retained much of its rural charm, making it a true escape from the hustle and bustle of New York City, located only two hours away. Accordingly, the region makes a great getaway to visit the vineyards, taste some wines and stock up for the summer.
I have been familiar with Long Island wines since the early 2000s. In particular, when I first joined the wine industry in mid-2005, I set up a wine education business in Mattituck, adjacent to Macari Vineyards. As our lives changed, we sold our Long Island real estate in 2013 and have only been back to the region a handful of times since then (see Island Wines), not for any other reason that being busy with other things. For me, Long Island wines are the jewel in New York State’s vinous crown, with high quality wines, exciting innovations in winemaking and warm-hearted people. At nearly 50 years old, the region has indeed found its footing and honed its knowledge of the terroir. Thus, it was a pleasure as well as a trip down memory lane as I recently tasted through a half case of Long Island wines.
TASTING NOTES
Sparkling Pointe Topaz Imperial Rose 2019, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $44.00 Produced in the same method as those from Champagne, this wine was produced with 50% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir and 16% Pinot Meunier, the same grape varieties used in that vaunted region. Sparkling Pointe is dedicated solely to sparkling wines and with few things more festive than bubbles, it was the perfect way to ring in the new year when we spent New Year’s Eve at the winery one year. More recently, we enjoyed the wine for an at-home date night of oysters, charcuterie and cheeses. The nose offers up intense fruit character of raspberry and strawberry, while the palate displays a fine and persistent perlage, good acidity, and lovely fruit flavors, culminating in long length.
Anthony Nappa Wines, Frizzante NV, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $22.00 Originally a winemaker for Shinn Estate (now known as Rose Hill Vineyards), Anthony launched his own eponymous brand in 2007 and has been pushing the envelope since the beginning as evidenced by his white Pinot Noir aptly named Anomaly. This blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 30% Viognier, 25% Moscato Giallo, undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle and is then aged sur lie (known in Italy as the Col Fondo method) yielding a lightly sparkling wine (hence the name frizzante). Somewhat cloudy, thanks to the production methods, this wine shows aromatic fruit and floral notes, slightly reminiscent of cider, on the nose and palate, with slight effervescence, good acidity, depth and concentration, and long length.
Macari Sauvignon Blanc “Katherine’s Field” 2016, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $24.00 The Macari family has been active in the region since 1960s, planting vines in 1995. The third generation of the family is now involved in the business. Today, they are firmly focused on sustainability and implement biodynamic farming practices in the vineyards. This 100% stainless steel fermented, Sauvignon Blanc shows slight smoke, citrus and tropical fruit on the nose. Citrus and tropical fruit persist on the dry palate, joined by a hint of savory herbal notes, with fresh, crisp acidity, a slight prickle, and long length.
Peconic Bay Vineyards Riesling 2020, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $28.00 One of the first wineries we visited back in the day was Peconic Bay winery. The winery has recently re-opened after a lengthy closure, but vines were tended to during this interim period, so there is no loss to the quality of the fruit. Peconic Bay has always been well respected for its Riesling, which is classic in nature. slightly off dry, but mostly dry, crisp acidity, medium body, long length.
McCall Wines, Estate Pinot Noir 2015, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $30.00 As part of his efforts to save the farmland adjacent to his family’s property from the threat of development, Russ McCall planted his fields with twenty-one acres of vineyards, eventually making his first wines in 2007. The tasting room opened in 2010. I have a been a big fan of his Pinot Noirs since I first tasted them, and they continue to impress me. This latest bottle was no exception. Beautiful notes of earth and herbs greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, joined by tart cherry and berry flavors, with good acidity, medium body and long length.
The Lenz Winery, Estate Selection Merlot 2015, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $35.00 Originally established by the Lenz family, in 1988 the winery was sold to Peter and Deborah Carroll who have continued to maintain the highest standards for their wines, pitting them against world renowned wines in blind tastings where they hold their own and then some. The winemaking team is led by Eric Fry, who has been with Lenz since 1989. This lovely Merlot offers up smoky, plum and coffee notes on the nose, which persist on the palate, which is dry, with medium body, medium+ acidity, and long length.
Having arrived at the 2nd anniversary of Covid’s official designation as a global pandemic, the world is slowly returning to a pre-pandemic normal. Yet, in many ways, the world has significantly changed and the way we live is not necessarily the same normal we used to know.
For many, the realities of inflation are further hampering their ability to dine out as before, especially as restaurants try to make up for lost time, lost patrons and lost income. Plus, understandably some people are still wary of dining indoors or being out in big crowds.
In light of these social and economic changes, the way we socialize is in flux. Yet, the need for human connection has never been greater. But staying in to save money and maintain safety doesn’t have to impede one’s plans. Dining at home easily puts the emphasis on what’s important: enjoying quality time with friends and loved ones. Moreover, it is easier and less expensive than finding a mutually agreeable restaurant.
In this vein, I have been returning to hosting people in our apartment much more frequently these days, but in different ways than before. Given this shift, I have been desiring to entertain more lavishly when it comes to cuisine, cocktails and wines. Thus, we are following suit by cooking more elaborate meals and upgrading our wine choices.
As of late, we are inviting couples and small groups for dinner, both on weeknights and weekends, as a way to renew acquaintances, reconnect and recharge. One Monday night, neighborhood friends joined us for a casual dinner of paprika chicken and butternut squash, which was easily enlivened with the Biserno Insoglio del Cinghiale. Similarly, a cold, snowy Saturday was the perfect excuse to skip a walk in the wet weather and host a friend for charcuterie, cheeses and olives in my apartment and break open the Nardi Brunello. And, a Chianti Classico Riserva is always a welcome addition to one’s table.
Your guests certainly won’t complain about being served higher end wines with more complexity and concentration. Such selections can take a mundane Monday and elevate the occasion with the simple twist of a cork.
>>Read on for tasting notes and information on the properties.
TASTING NOTES
Tenuta di Nozzole 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, Italy, $24.99 Owned by the Folonari family, which has been in the winemaking industry since the 1700s, Tenuta di Nozzole was purchased in 1971, with vineyards dating 700 years. This wine is produced solely from Sangiovese grapes and then spends 24 months in oak barrels with another 3 months in bottle before being released. The extra ageing earns this wine its Riserva designation and adds to the depth and development of the resulting wine.
Aromas of red cherry, black cherry, slight oak and wood greet the nose. The dry palate has high acidity, medium+ body and ripe, resolved tannins. It displays more secondary characteristics than primary fruit flavors, culminating in long length.
Tenuta di Biserno 2019 Insoglio del Cinghiale, Tuscany, Italy, $42.99 The Tenuta di Biserno property stems from a partnership between Marchese Lodovico Antinori, creator of Italian legends Ornellaia and Masseto, and his brother Marchese Piero Antinori, President of acclaimed Antinori Wines, in collaboration with legendary Oenologist, Michel Rolland. Situated in the Upper Maremma, the vineyards are home to a unique microclimate, which the collaborators felt well suited to Cabernet Franc, which is less common in the region. This particular wine is an interesting blend of 33% Syrah, 33% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot.
With notes of smoke, oak, blackberry and earth, the beautifully balanced wine offers up good acidity, full body and ripe tannins. The dry, complex palate shows flavors of blackberry, smoke, a hint of raisin, and earth, along with long length.
Tenute Silvio Nardi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $83.00 Founded by Silvio Nardi who purchased Casale del Bosco estate in 1950 and became a leader in the establishment of the Brunello di Montalcino denomination, Tenuta Silvio Nardi has become a highly regarded producer of these wines. Today, Silvio’s youngest daughter, Emilia Nardi, is at the helm of the winery, working in consultation with enologist Eric Boissenot, one of the world’s top ten winemaking consultants. As a Brunello, this wine is made entirely of Sangiovese and, as per law, is aged for 30 months in wood barrels and 12 months in bottle.
On the nose, this wine displays notes of ripe cherries, oak, and a slight leafy note. The dry, full-bodied palate has bright acidity, with rich, concentrated fruit of cherry and berry, along with a hint of oak and very long length. It is still quite tannic and needs time In bottle to develop.
