With her very apt metaphor, at the recent Naturally Bordeaux event, Mary Gorman-McAdams, MW, explained that big ships are hard to change course, but, with time, they do make the transformation. Similarly, Bordeaux, which is the largest quality wine region in France, has finally made a turn of its own with its more recent embrace of sustainable agriculture. Now that Bordeaux is moving in this new direction, it has been full steam ahead.
Consequently, Bordeaux has significantly increased its acreage of organic vineyards, which, as reported by James Lawther, MW currently stands at 34,333 acres. He further noted that this figure, when added to the biodynamically-certified acreage, accounts for 14% of the region’s vineyards.
Moreover, Mary shared that there has been a collective focus throughout the region on implementing the new Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) certification, a three-tiered system that was launched in France in 2001. This program “encourages farms and vineyards to focus on increasing biodiversity, decreasing the negative environmental impact of their phyto-sanitary strategy (i.e., measures for the control of plant diseases, reducing the use of pesticides and fungicides), managing their fertilizer inputs, and improving water management.” ~Discover Sustainable Wine
The HVE program has been whole-heartedly adopted by the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux which plans to have 100% compliance among Bordeaux producers by 2030. Early adopters, the Cru Bourgeois du Médoc mandated that each chateau must have achieved at least minimum level HVE certification requirements as part of the application process to be considered for Cru Bourgeois status. Lawther advised that it has also been implemented as a requirement by the St.-Emilion appellation. Overall, the Bordelais are taking a holistic picture, including measures that address corporate responsibility.
Other changes in the region include not only an increase in rosé production, but a shift in its approach to producing these wines. To this end, rosé now makes up 4% of Bordeaux’s production and producers are making rosé on purpose these days. Accordingly, today’s wines utilize direct press production instead of the saignée method, which had previously been implemented primarily as a way to beef up the reds. For the most part, the resulting rosé wine made in this manner was an afterthought.
I recently had the pleasure of being introduced (or in one case, reintroduced) to three Bordeaux producers who are actively engaged in organic viticulture at the Naturally Bordeaux event, which was held at Clay Restaurant in New York city’s Harlem neighborhood. Clay was chosen because it is farm-to-table, serving only seasonal, locally-sourced products on its menu. Thus, it was the perfect setting for a dinner featuring sustainable Bordeaux wines.
The wines showed beautifully, providing the opportunity to taste white, rosé and red wines from a variety of vintages. They say the proof is in the pudding and it was clear from this tasting that these are fabulous, well-made wines that you can feel good about drinking given their commitment to the environment. And Clay’s chocolate budino (an Italian pudding) (as well as the entire meal) was fantastic too!
Chateau Fourcas Hosten Owned by two brothers, Chateau Fourcas-Hosten has a long history on the Left Bank and has been focused on organics and sustainability for the past decade. They achieved HVE3 certification in 2017 and have taken the further step to convert their vines to organic viticulture, starting first with their whites and then expanding to their reds. Full certification of their 50 hectares was received in 2021. Of course, their first goal is to make good wines, and, in this manner, they have recognized the need to adapt the right variety to the right terroir. They have also made investments in the winery as well.
Chateau La Dauphine Situated on the Right Bank, this historic chateau comprises 160 acres of vineyards with a mix of limestone, clay and molasse soils. The property itself dates to the late 1600s, with a more modern history dating to 2001 when the Halley family purchased the estate and invested 10 million Euros to significantly improve the land and winery. Chateau de la Dauphine earned organic certification in 2015, the same year that the property was sold to the Labrune family. It has since added biodynamic methods as well. Among other changes in the vineyards, they have been increasing their plantings of Cabernet Franc due to their soil types as well as due to climate change.
Chateau Jean Faure This St.-Emilion Grand Cru Classé producer can trace its origins to a deed dated 1526. It has, of course, changed hands numerous times since then, with its latest acquisition in 2004, when it was purchased by Anne and Olivier Decelle. Their first certified organic vintage was 2017. Since 2020, they have engaged in biodynamic practices and will earn full certification from Biodyvin in 2023. Extensive research has been done on the estate’s predominantly clay terroir, which has always been heavily planted to Cabernet Franc (60%). This will prove to be even more useful as temperatures rise, given that Cabernet Franc has a longer maturity than Merlot.
MENU & TASTING NOTES
First course: Radicchio, spiced walnut, aged balsamic, parmigiano
Chateau Fourcas Hosten Blanc 2020, Listrac-Medoc, Bordeaux Planted on limestone soils, which helps preserve the beautiful acidity, this wine is a blend of 67% Sauvignon Blanc, 18% Sauvignon Gris, and 15% Semillon. It offers up herbal and citrus aromas on the nose, giving way to riper pineapple on the bright palate, culminating with long length.
Chateau La Dauphine Rosé 2021, Fronsac, Bordeaux This very pale hued rosé brings together 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, grown on a plot earmarked specifically for the production of rosé. Instead of a maceration, they use a pneumatic press to extract the juice and a touch of color. This wine was first made in 2016, when Monsiur Labrune decided to produce a rosé especially for his wife. With slight herbs and delicate strawberry and melon fruit, the palate is vibrant with a hint of salinity and long length.
Main course: Confit duck leg, carrot, smoked farro, collard greens, sumac Side dishes: Mushrooms with thyme and shallot | Duck fat potatoes, with parsley and parmigiano
Chateau Fourcas Hosten 2018, Listrac-Medoc, Bordeaux This blend of 58% Merlot, 38.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc displays plum, other black fruit, oak and vanilla, with firm ripe tannins and good length.
Chateau Jean Faure 2015, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, St.-Emilion, Bordeaux Produced with 50% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot and 5% Malbec from a very sunny vintage, this wine offered up ripe, spicy, red fruit, along with freshness, culminating in long length.
Chateau La Dauphine 2012, Fronsac, Bordeaux A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, this is beautifully developed with black and red fruit, ripe tannins, and very long length.
Chateau Jean Faure 2010, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, St.-Emilion, Bordeaux Bring together the same blend as the 2015 vintage, this wine was still quite fresh despite its age. Showing some development, with aromas and flavors of blackberry, herbs, oak, and vanilla, with ripe tannins and long length.
Already know your South American ABC’s? Now it’s time to get to know U!
You are likely very familiar with wines from Argentina, Brazil and Chile, but if you are not aware of the wines from Uruguay, you are not alone. Yet, this oversight is worth correcting, especially given the country’s emphasis on further improving quality and care in crafting their wines. Moreover, its winemakers have learned to tame the tannins in its home-spun grape, Tannat, producing a plethora of styles to meet a range of palate preferences.
Although Uruguay is the second smallest country in South America, nestled between Argentina and Brazil, it has a lot of claims to fame. Most notably, Uruguay was the first country to host the World Cup. In addition to sharing a wine heritage with its neighbors, Uruguay also gives them a run for their money rivaling Argentina in tango and steak and Brazil with the longest carnival in the world at 50 days long. Perhaps most impressive, Uruguay boasts a 99% literacy rate and the country has given every school child a laptop since 2009.
Despite a less obvious presence on the world wine stage, Uruguay has been making wine since 1720s, and saw significant growth in the 1800s. However, it wasn’t until the 1990s that the country began to focus on premium wines, with the planting of the more noble, European grape varieties.
Climatically, Uruguay is home to a maritime climate, such as that of Bordeaux and Galicia. Within this climatic condition, the country comprises 1200 vineyards and 160 wineries. Today’s plantings total 12,000 acres and the land is composed of 99 different varieties of soil. The majority of production (75%) centers in two main regions along the coast: Canelones and Montevideo (shaded in yellow in the map below). Here, the vines are planted on gently sloping hillsides and, tend to be older, due to the lengthier history of viticulture in the region.
Similarly, the industry is seeking out new areas for planting such as Maldonado (shaded in blue), which is also coastal, but with granite soils. Another frontier area is Rivera (shared in gray), in the north, near the border of Brazil, with a distinctly more continental climate thanks to its location further inland.
For what little reputation Uruguay does have, it is perhaps most well-known and regarded for Tannat. This highly tannic variety of French origin was first planted in Uruguay in the 1860s, with 3,950 acres currently planted. With its thick skin, Tannat is less susceptible to disease, which makes it a good option to combat the country’s humid climate.
Yet, beyond the climate-conducive nature of Tannat, the Uruguayans are quick to note that with the preponderance of cows in the country, they make wine to eat with meat. In fact, one producer proclaimed, “We eat the cows or we will be eaten by them.” NB: Cows outnumber people 4 to 1. For this reason, they like to think that, “Tannat chose us,” rather than the other way around. Thus, Tannat’s high tannin content, which reacts favorably with the protein in steak, provides another reason for Tannat to be such an important grape for the country.
Regardless of the reason for Tannat’s initial take-off, it is clear that Uruguayan winemakers have become very adept at handling Tannat and, in particular, have learned to expertly manage those high tannins. The tannins are still generally intense and structural, yet they are more balanced. Plus, today’s Tannat wines offer a variety of styles from which the consumer can choose.
In fact, in a recent tasting at City Winery, members of the press and trade had a unique opportunity to taste through nine different Tannat wines (including a Tannat-based vermouth), which clearly illustrated the diversity being produced right now. Moreover, tasting through an assortment of varietal wines as well as blends revealed how the current crop of winemakers has implemented their experience and expertise to produce high-end wines and provided a showcase of what Tannat can truly do.
Aside from Tannat, Uruguay is home to other French varieties, including: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, as well as Marselan, Syrah and Pinot Noir. Although whites comprise a much smaller percentage of total plantings, Sauvignon Blanc is the 8th most planted variety, Chardonnay is ninth and Albarino comes in at number 10.
Today’s producers run the gamut from historic family properties to experimental newcomers and everything in between, all of whom are embracing this latest chapter of Uruguay’s vinous history. There are some very interesting and exciting wines being exported to the U.S. and most of them are well priced. If you don’t know Uruguayan wines, now is the time to get to know them.
The Uruguayan masterclass at City Winery was led by award-winning wine journalist, Amanda Barnes, author of the The South America Wine Guide, joined above by a representative from Cerro Chapeu winery.
TASTING NOTES
Cerro Chapeu Castel Pujol Folklore Petillant Naturel 2022, Rivera, Uruguay Planted in the early 1970s, there are only two wineries in this tiny region, bordering Brazil. Produced in the Ancestral Method, this sparkling wine is a blend of 80% Trebbiano and 20% Malvasia. It is lightly sparkling, with nice citrus fruit, minerality, and long length.
Familia Traversa Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Montevideo, Uruguay The Traversa family hails from the Veneto in Italy, emigrating to Uruguay in 1904. In 1937, they purchased land in Montevideo and established the winery in 1956. This Sauvignon Blanc is treated to some barrel fermentation, giving it more weight and presence on the plate. It is very fresh, with a slight wood note, medium bodied, with mineral and citrus on the palate.
Marichal Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Canelones, Uruguay Founded in 1916, the Marichal brothers are members of the 4th generation to run the family business. They shifted their focus to fine wine in 2002 and have been improving quality ever wine. Compared to the Traversa Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is more herbal, with more tropical fruit.
Cerro del Toro Albarino Sobre Lias 2021, Maldonado, Uruguay This wine project is run by a Japanese businessman, who bought the land in the late 1980s. The winery itself was started in 2015 and comprises 70 acres. The wine spends some time sur lie. Aromas of apple and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate, with high acidity, medium body and long length.
Los Cerros de San Juan Lahusen Riesling 2020, Colonia, Uruguay Established in 1854 by the Lahusen family from Germany, this is the oldest winery in Uruguay. The vines are planted on rocky soils and the wine was fermented in clay amphora. This Riesling shows lots of freshness with lime and minerality along with long length.
Antigua Bodega Bella Donna Tannat 2020, Canelones, Uruguay Since 1928, this Canelones-based winery has been family owned and female led, with the 6th generation currently at the helm. This Tannat is produced in a fresh, unoaked style with berries, black fruits, medium body, good acidity and long length.
Vina Progreso overground (revolution) Tannat 2020, Canelones, Uruguay Well respected winemaker, Gabriel Pisano has been exploring numerous projects since 2009 and established Vina Progreso as his “Experimental Winery” upon his return home to Uruguay. Fresh, with lively acidity, this Tannat is slightly reminiscent of Beaujolais, with light tannins and bright, red fruit aromas and flavors.
Artesana Devocion 2020, Canelones, Uruguay This boutique winery in Las Brujas was co-founded by Californian and Uruguayan winemakers, which explains why they grow Zinfandel in addition to Cabernet Franc, Tannat and Merlot and use a combination of both French and American oak. This blend of Cabernet Franc, Tannat and Merlot shows juicy red and black fruit. It is weighty, complex, and nicely balanced with ripe, firm tannins, good acidity, full body and long length.
Bracco Bosca Gran Ombu Cabernet Franc 2021, Atlantida, Uruguay Situated in Atlantida, a coastal area located just 8km from the sea, this winery was started in 2005, A member of the 5th generation of her Italian-heritage family (they are originally from Piedmont), Fabiana came back to the winery six years ago to take the lead. One of their top wines, the Gran Ombu Cabernet Franc spends ten months in New French oak and displays aromas and flavors of dried and fresh herbs, mulberry and cranberry, with good acidity and length.
Alto de la Ballena Tannat Viognier 2018, Maldonado, Uruguay The husband-and-wife owners of Alto de la Ballena have no family background in the wine industry, but simply wanted to seek out new areas (Maldonado) and pioneer new wines, getting their start in 2001. This wine takes its cue from the Northern Rhone, where the white variety, Viognier, is added to the red grape, Syrah. In this case, Tannat stands in for Syrah. With dark red fruit, dried herbs and vanilla on the nose and palate, the fruit is ripe yet restrained, culminating in long length.
Montes Toscanini Gran Tannat Premium 2019, Canelones, Uruguay In 1894, the family arrived from Geneva, eventually establishing the winery in 1979 in Canelones. Today, the 4th generation of the family is actively involved in the business. They only produce this specific wine in the best years, and from the best parcels. Offering up intense, firm, yet ripe tannins, this wine is well structured with long length, showing black fruit, oak, vanilla.
Familia Deicas Preludio Tinto 2016, Canelones, Uruguay This historic winery was purchased in 1979 and most recently established in 2000. This is a barrel select wine, which is a blend of Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Marselan. The selection is made by a large committee of family members after the wine has been aged for 24 months in oak barrels. It is redolent of red and black fruits and oak, with ripe tannins, good acidity, full body and long length.
Bouza Monte vide eu 2020, Montevideo, Uruguay Founded in 1999, the owners have been pioneers in new regions and with Albarino and are classic car enthusiasts. Bringing together 55% Tannat, 27% Merlot, and 18% Tempranillo, this wine takes its name from a Portuguese phrase, and has a sweet attack, with fresh, ripe fruit, violets, and oak. The full-bodied wine has firm tannins and long length.
Bodega Garzon Balasto 2018, Maldonado, Uruguay Bodega Garzon was established in 2009 in Maldonado by Argentine oil billionaire Alejandro Bulgheroni, in conjunction with an Italian wine consultant, Alberto Antonini. With a tribute to the terroir of decomposed granite soil and a strong emphasis on sustainability, the owners are more excited about their Silver LEED certification than any wine awards they may have won, which says a lot considering that the winery won Wine Enthusiast’s Wine Star Award for Best New World Winery in 2018. A blend of 45% Tannat, 25% Cabernet Franc, 18% Petit Verdot, and 12% Marselan, this wine is aged in untoasted botti, and offers up black fruit, berries and coffee, with full body and firm tannins. It is quite powerful, yet balanced and complex.
Basta Spirit Vermut Flores Rose NV, Uruguay An artisanal vermouth collaboration produced from Canelones-sourced grapes, this project started in 2019. With a tradition from Italy and Spain, interest in vermouth has been growing among consumers in Uruguay. There are four different flowers included in the 27-ingredient, botanical recipe. It starts with a base of Tannat rose. It is very fresh and lively.
Happy November! Thanksgiving is around the corner, which means that you are likely busy planning holiday menus and wondering what wines should grace your table.
For the past several years, I have had the great pleasure of having at least one bottle of Merry Edwards wines paired with my Thanksgiving meal (see especially this post). In fact, I am very grateful to have been able to sample these wines since 2020. They have been a bright spot in what has been a challenging period for us all.
This year (thankfully) is no exception. Yet, rather than wait to taste my final bottle to share my tasting notes with you, I wanted to post this now to encourage you to take advantage of this special offering to ensure that you, too, can enjoy a bottle (or more) of Merry Edwards as part of your festivities.
The folks at Merry Edwards have curated a special Thanksgiving set of wines featuring one bottle each of: – 2020 Olivet Lane Chardonnay* – 2020 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir* – 2020 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir*
The wines also include a wooden etched logo box, making it a very gift-worthy option.
Note: There are a limited number of Thanksgiving Sets available, so don’t delay if you feel the pull. Plus, the shipping deadline for guaranteed Thanksgiving delivery is: Friday, November 11th. –>To purchase, visit their website or call the winery at: 888-388-9050.
Of course, any of the Merry Edward wines would be a great addition to your table now and throughout the year and are perfect gifting wines as well.
*Tasting notes for the Pinot Noirs are included below as is my tasting note for a previous vintage of the Olivet Lane Chardonnay.
TASTING NOTES
Merry Edwards 2019 Olivet Lane Chardonnay, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00 Aromas of butter and smoke greet the nose and persist on the elegant palate, with apple and citrus flavors, good acidity, medium+ body and very long length. NB: The offer above includes the 2020 vintage; this note is for the 2019 vintage.
Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00 This continues to be a favorite Sauvignon Blanc of mine. The wine is fresh, with a pronounced nose of ripe citrus and tropical fruit aromas. The palate is dry, with ripe citrus fruit on the attack, bright acidity, medium+ body, and long length. Overall, it is mouth filling and delicious.
Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2020, Sonoma County (CA), USA, $48.00 From the larger Sonoma Coast AVA, this wine is sourced from grapes that are grown in the cool, coastal climate. The nose and palate are redolent of fresh and dried herbs, with dark cherry aromas and flavors. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, soft, ripe tannins, culminating in long length.
Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2020, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $58.00 From Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, which is situated further inland, these vineyards are warmer than the coast, but still influenced by the fog, maintaining good acidity levels and freshness in the grapes. Concentrated, with ripe, dark cherry fruit, and notes of earth, pomegranate, and a hint of coffee. The wine is layered and complex, with bright acidity and nice length on the palate.
Merry Edwards Meredith Estate Pinot Noir 2020, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00 Selfishly, I am going to save this to enjoy for Thanksgiving 2022 and will include my tasting note after the holiday.
However, here is my note from the 2018 vintage of this same wine:
Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $72.00 With 20 planted acres, the Meredith Estate vineyard is one of the larger single-vineyard productions from Merry Edwards. This abandoned apple orchard in the Sebastopol Hills was purchased by Merry in 1996 and planted to Pinot in 1998. They practice sustainable agriculture, with the use of cover crops and other earth-friendly farming approaches. Red and black cherries feature prominently on the nose, with cherry and berry fruit, along with notes of wet leaves and an herbal undercurrent. The dry palate provides a decidedly savory note, with medium+ body, high acidity and very long length.
Nestled in the south of France between the French Riviera and the region of Roussillon, the wines of Languedoc are impressive as well as both food and wallet friendly. If these are not on your radar, they should be given their diversity and sheer delight!
I recently had the pleasure of tasting through a selection of Languedoc wines in a guided tasting with Master Sommelier and owner of Corkbuzz, Laura Maniac. Each wine was beautifully (and deliciously) paired with a small bite, underscoring the ease with which these wines pair with a wide range of cuisine. After our time with Laura, we were led on a brief culinary tour of the Chelsea Market, becoming familiar with other vendors in the venue and the opportunity to sample a few more glasses of Languedoc.
Languedoc’s sunny, Mediterranean climate is tempered with cooling breezes and warm winds, which results in ripe fruit that retains its bright acidity. Thanks to the area’s dry nature, the region has one of the largest organic productions in France with over 30% of producers practicing organic viticulture; another 27% are in progress of converting from conventional practices. In fact, Languedoc launched the world’s first all organic expo — Millesime Bio — in 1993. Additionally, many producers are embracing biodynamics as well. And, with a strong research emphasis on viticulture, centered at L’INRA in Montpellier, the region is well equipped to handle climate change. Moreover, today, the area is home to a quiet revolution as winemakers from elsewhere in France are feeling the pull to make high quality wine within its borders.
Yet, Languedoc is not part of some passing fad. The region boasts 2500 years of wine making history and also lays claim to the discovery of fortification (thanks to Arnaud de Villeneuve in 1285) and sparkling wine production (in 1544 with the creation of Blanquette de Limoux).
The 90,000+ acres of vineyards are planted to 26 different grape varieties, with the majority (59%) of wine production given over to red wine. The balance is equally split among rosé and white wines. Within the vast acreage, there are 20 different appellations within Languedoc, but producers can also choose to bottle their wine under the broader Languedoc AOP. Regardless of the appellation, the wines coming from the region include everyday, inexpensive options, but also collectibles that are showing that this is a region capable of producing at the very top levels.
During the Languedoc event, the wines were custom paired by Chef Yovet Calvario of Corkbuzz; David Seigal, Culinary Director of Lobster Place; and Pablo Lopez, Chef Charcutier of Dickson’s Farmstand Meats.
We started off the tasting with a lusciously aged white wine served with lemon butter shrimp, matching the decadent and rich nature of both the wine and the food. The next bite was arancini with mushrooms, which paired well with a fresh, fruity red. Ricotta crostini (using Laura’s grandmother’s recipe for homemade ricotta) showed spectacularly with a more robust red. The next set of reds went well with an eggplant caponata dish, meatballs in a tomato sauce and chimichurri steak.
At Lobster Place, which has been in business for 45 years, we enjoyed raw oysters and grilled shrimp, coupled with a fresh white and a fruit-forward rosé, respectively. Then, at Dickson’s, we had the pleasure of seeing how the range of charcuterie brought out the flavors of the wine — a pale rosé and an intense red.
TASTING NOTES
CORKBUZZ Domaine Les Aurelles, Aurel Blanc 2013, Languedoc, France, $80.00 There are two ex-Bordeaux winemakers behind this wine, which is produced from 100% Roussanne and provides a perfect example of an age-worthy white from this region. Aromas of hazelnut, beeswax and pineapple greet the nose and persist on the dry palate. It is ripe and rich, with good acidity and notes of honey in the long finish.
Cave de Roquebrun, Chemin des Olivettes 2020, Languedoc, France, $13.00 Established in 1967, the Cave de Roquebrun co-op represents 70 winegrowers. This wine brings together 45% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre and 10% Cinsault and displays lots of fresh, red fruit with garrigue/dried herbs, with lavender and pepper especially in finish.
Domaine d’Aupilhac, Lou Maset 2019, Languedoc, France, $23.00 Named for an old, stone hut found in the vineyards of this biodynamic producer, the Lou Maset is intense and angular with fresh, lifted black fruit. A blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, 10% Carignan, 5% Syrah, and 5% Alicante Bouchet, it is quite tannic, with lingering notes of dried orange peel, pepper and herbs.
Jeff Carrel, Les Darons 2019, Languedoc, $15.00 Named “Les Darons” which is an affectionate term used in Parisian suburbs for one’s parents, this is a blend of 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 5% Carignan. It is lush with red and black fruit, woody notes, good, ripe tannins, lots of spice and full body, culminating in long length.
Devois de Perret, Cellier du Pic 2020, Languedoc, France, $14.00 Primarily Syrah, with 25% Grenache, this wine offers up complex aromas of smoke, leather, and dark red cherry. The medium+-bodied palate is fresh with good fruit character and long length.
Château La Negly, Clos des Truffiers 2018, Languedoc, France, $200.00 Originally called Ancely, Château La Negly dates to 1781. Consequently, this wine is produced from some of oldest vines in the region. Bringing together 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache, this is a stunning wine with layers of aromas and flavors. It is very oak dominant, with spice, dill, earth, leather, blackberry, cherries, floral and minerality as well as being rich in texture and tannin, culminating in long length.
LOBSTER PLACE Château de Lascaux, Garrigue 2021, Languedoc, France, $20.00 This white blend (35% Vermentino, 20% Roussanne, 15% White Grenache, 15% Clairette, 10% Marsanne, and 5% Viognier) offers up fresh fruit and lively acidity with aromas and flavors of unsweetened limeade and tropical fruit with a lovely texture. It paired extremely well with Avelon oysters from Maine.
Gerard Bertrand, Source of Joy 2020, Languedoc, France, $20.00 This organic rosé had a portion of its wine matured in oak barrels, giving it depth and structure on the palate. It shows lots of fresh floral and strawberry notes, with long length.
DICKSON’s FARMSTAND MEATS Domaine du Pas de l’Escalette, Ze Rozé 2020, Languedoc, France, $13.00 This is a much paler, lighter-bodied rosé, which is the result of a direct press and gentle extraction. With barely any color, it resembles a white more than a rosé, especially with its high acidity, but its berry aromas and flavors belie its true identity as a rosé.
Domaine de Nizas, Le Clos 2018, Languedoc Pézenas, France, $21.00 Half of this Syrah blend (60% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre and 5% Carignan) spent time in three-year-old French oak barrels. Displaying lots of character and finesse, it is fresh yet tannic, with red fruit and spice, with long length.
Looking for a new (to you) white wine? While certainly not new – grapes have been grown in the region since 972 CE and specific mention of it dates to 1782 – Gavi is perhaps less well known, but definitely worth getting to know. In fact, at a recent seminar, “The Hidden Depths of Gavi: Ageing Potential of Piemonte’s Great White “, moderator Walter Speller suggested that Gavi can “play at the level of Chablis.”
Produced from 100% Cortese grapes, the wine hails from southeast Piedmont, Italy (the same region known for Barolo and Barbaresco as well as Moscato d’Asti). This high-quality wine benefits from the continental climate where it can fully ripen in the hot, sunny summers, yet maintain bright acidity thanks to the coastal marin wind.
This great grape can be produced in several different styles, all while keeping within the rules and regulations of the Gavi Consorzio: Still (which represents 99% of all production); Semi-Sparkling (Metodo Classico, with six months aging on the lees); Fully Sparkling; and Riserva. In addition to adhering to lower yields, these latter wines must be aged for one year, with at least six months of that spent in the bottle.
Established as an official denomination in 1974, Gavi was promoted to DOCG in 1998. Yet, more historically, Gavi played an important role in trade. First firmly rooted in the Roman empire, the area was home to Libarna, which was founded in 2nd century BCE as an agricultural and viticultural city. Later, it became crucial to the Republic of Genoa, which served as a defense post and was instrumental in the salt route. The Genovese needed a wine that could be shipped from place to place and being due north of Genoa in the Alessandria province, Gavi became that wine.
More critical than its geographical proximity, Gavi was an especially good choice thanks to its stability. As a white wine with far less polyphenols – especially catechins – than others, it could be shipped to other areas without fear of damage to the wine.
Today, there are 1600 hectares cultivated within the Gavi borders, accounting for 60% of all Cortese planted within Italy. The vines are dispersed among 11 municipalities in the foothills of the Po Valley, some of which are designated as crus. There has also been an increasing focus on single vineyards as the producers seek to better understand their terroir. In this regard, they recently completed a comprehensive map of the territory.
Additionally, sustainable practices have been embraced by the Consorzio with an aim toward promoting organic viticulture and preventing erosion. This commitment has been further reinforced by its 2018 initiative, which monitors bee pollen to measure whether sustainable viticulture is actually being practiced in the region.
Within the area, Cortese thrives on the combination of red clays, white soils, with marl and sandstone, which display as minerality in the wines. In general, these are fresh, elegant white wines, known less for fruit and more for their floral, nut (almond) and mineral characteristics. Most of the wines are fermented in stainless steel, but a few producers do use wood and there has been an emphasis on indigenous yeasts since 2015.
Although the majority of white wines are meant to be enjoyed in their youth, Cortese is a grape that can sustain the test of time. In particular, thanks to the same chemical components that make them stable for shipment, these are wines that can develop beautifully with eight to ten years of age, yet still retain vibrant acidity. As evidence, the wines tasted at the above referenced seminar hailed from vintages 2013-2019 and all showed quite well.
VINTAGE CHART
2021 – 5.0 stars
2020 – 4.5 stars
2019 – 4.5 stars
2018 – 4.5 stars
2017 – 4.0 stars
2016 – 5.0 stars
2015 – 5.0 stars
TASTING NOTES
La Raia Vigna della Madonnina 2019 Gavi DOCG Riserva Acquired by Giorgio Rossi Cairo and his family in 2003, La Raia is an organic and biodynamic property, with Demeter certification. Aged in stainless steel, with one year lees aging, this fresh wine displays apple, slight citrus and mineral notes, with high acidity, medium to full body and long length.
Tenuta La Giustiana Montessora 2018 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi Founded in 1250, Tenuta La Giustiana is one of the oldest and historic estates. Montessora is a single vineyard. This is beautiful wine with wet stone, lanolin, orange peel aromas. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, along with depth and richness and a hint of chalk in the finish, with long length.
Morgassi Superiore Volo 2018 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi Established in 1993, this small estate is family run, currently under the direction of sisters Marina and Cecilia Piacitelli. The wine is very tart, with lemon and mineral aromas and flavors, along with medium+ body, high acidity and good length.
La Mesma Vigna della Rovere Verde 2016 Gavi DOCG Riserva Also a family affair, La Mesma is run by the Rosina sisters: Paola, Francesca and Anna. Notes of pear and apple greet the nose. The palate is dry, with full body, slight tidal pool notes and minerality, culminating in long length.
Tenuta San Pietro in Tassarolo Il Mnadorlo 2015 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Tassarolo Named for the Benedictine convent that was located on the property in the 11th century, Tenuta San Pietro, the estate was purchased in 2002 by Corrado Alota, a Milanese entrepreneur. Hailing from a warmer vintage and with seven years of age on it, this wine displayed beautiful development with almond and caramel aromas. On the palate, it is rich and concentrated, with medium acidity, full body, and notes of peaches, beeswax, petrol and hazelnuts.
Villa Sparina Monterotondo 2014 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi Winner of Wine Enthusiast’s European Winery of the Year for 2021, Villa Sparina has been producing Gavi since 1970. With grapes sourced from their cru, Monterotondo, this wine is intense, with a rich nose redolent of pear and showing some development. It is full bodied, with slight hints of woodiness, peaches and long length.
Bergaglio Nicola Minaia 2014 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi This estate has been making wine since 1945 and is run by the son and grandson of founder: Jean-Luigi and Diego Bergalo. Sourced from grapes grown on the hilly Minaia site, situated directly behind the family cellar, the wine offers up honey, floral and lemon aromas and flavors with medium acidity, medium body and long length.
Broglia Bruno Broglia 2013 Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi The Bruno Broglia acquired his historic estate – La Meirana – in 1972, which is now managed by his sons, Gian Piero and Paolo. With a commitment to modern technology, it was the first estate to collaborate on clonal research related to the Cortese grape and it continues to conduct other studies in concert with local universities. Despite being nearly a decade old, this wine is surprisingly fresh. It provides notes of citrus and mineral, with an undercurrent of anise, with good acidity, medium body and long length.
As previously reported, Washington wine is hot right now and deservedly so. If you are familiar with Washington wine, it is most likely in the guise of industry leader, Chateau Ste. Michelle, which was a pioneer in the state in the early 1970s, but has since grown to become “the nation’s third largest wine company”. Additionally, “the company accounts for about 60% of all Washington wine sales, by volume.”*
However, it’s important to recognize that 90% of the more than 1,000 wineries in the state produce less than 5,000 cases annually. These relatively small producers are no less important or innovative and, in fact, likely more so, as their size enables them to be nimble and experimental. And, as I like to think of them, they are mavericks in the truest sense of the word – finding their way in a challenging, yet creative, industry, crafting quality wines that appeal to their palate as well as those of their customers.
Mav·er·ick (n.): An unorthodox or independent-minded person
In the words of “Law & Order”, these are their stories…
Bledsoe Family: Dream Job x Two Most people are lucky if they get to have one dream job in their lifetime, let alone two, yet Drew Bledsoe is a very lucky person. After a successful career in the NFL, Drew and his wife, Maura, returned to his roots and found land in his hometown with the aim of growing an estate vineyard. He then recruited “winemaking wunderkind” Josh McDaniels and began making wine as Bledsoe Family Winery. Eager to make his mark and assert his passion despite his lack of experience as a winemaker, Drew found an open ear in Josh and the two jointly collaborated on their Doubleback wine, which garnered top ratings nearly immediately.
Browne Family Vineyards: The Spy Who Loved Wine Browne Family Vineyards was inspired and named for William Bitner Browne, the late grandfather of proprietor Andrew Browne. Bitner Browne served as a spy during World War II and the Browne Family Vineyards Spymaster series of Cabernet Sauvignon wines follow his story, which include: The Farm, London is Calling, Liberation of Paris, The Continent and Homecoming. Plus, how can you resist a wine called Do Epic Shit? Adding to their locations in Walla Walla, Tacoma and Seattle, a fourth tasting room will open in Bellevue in Fall 2022.
DeLille Cellars: Always Wine on the Mind Founded in 1992, DeLille Cellars is the third oldest operating winery in Woodinville, WA and is known for pioneering Bordeaux-style blends from Washington State. In 2019, it moved into a large facility previously occupied by Redhook Brewery, which it thoroughly renovated to exacting standards.
Jason Gorski, Director of Winemaking and Viticulture, has been with DeLille for 11 years and was quick to say that, “I could make wine in Napa Valley, but why would I?” He further added that Washington wine is “the best domestic value since ever.” With over a decade of tenure at the winery, Jason has developed a strong reputation and a high level of trust that extends both within the company and externally. In this regard, there is often an informal nature to collaborations. For example, there is no actual contract with Harrison Hill Vineyard; it’s simply a handshake, but the length of that relationship endures and paperwork is not necessary. Similarly, Jason gets to create smaller batch wines especially for the wine club that permit him to stretch his creativity, experiment with new varieties, test out new vineyards or simply explore new ideas. He does admit that the blessing and the curse is when these small batch productions take off and make it challenging to scale. Yet it continues to be his modus operandi. Among these transformations is his Four Flags Cabernet. Additionally, he has significant latitude to explore outside the Bordeaux box. Case in point, his Riesling.
Clearly he enjoys the challenge of creating new and exciting wines on a regular basis. In fact, Jason jokes with his wife not to ask him about what he’s thinking because, as he notes, in reality he’s always thinking about wine.
Goings on at Goose Ridge With roots in the cattle and orchard industries, the 2200-acre, Goose Ridge estate has been in the Monson family since the early 1900s. After meeting wine consultant, Dr. Walter Clore, Arvid Monson developed a passion for growing wine, shifting the family’s focus from cows and apples to grapes. Consequently, their vineyards were planted in 1998, with its first contract already in place before the soil was tilled – that’s how much potential Chateau Ste. Michelle saw in their land.
Today, they grow 16 varieties, maintain four tasting rooms, and continue to seek out new and innovative projects to expand their offerings. In this vein, they are producing cider from their orchards and recently made vodka from their Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, becoming the only winery in the state with its own distillery. Distilled 24 times, VIDO Vodka is flavorful and has no burn; a gin is coming soon. Other innovations include the use of unconventional packaging such as their still and sparkling canned wines under the Cascadian Outfitters brand and the use of fun and eye-catching designs. Each year, they commission local artists to create new labels for their Wine Club Artist Series.
If all of this wasn’t enough to keep them busy, they helped establish a brand-new American Viticultural Area (AVA), which became official as of July 2021: Goose Gap AVA. This new AVA was essentially superimposed on their property and was established based on the wind conditions and soil type. Here, the temperature is cooler, and the elevation is higher, than the neighboring Red Mountain AVA. despite the proximity; hence the need for this new AVA. They are excited to begin using the new name on their labeling.
Gorman Winery: From Music Maker to Wine Maker Originally from Sunrise, FL, Chris Gorman attended college in Bellingham, WA and aspired to be a musician. Like many aspiring artists, he had to find a day job while he waited to make it big in the industry. In his case, he chose to sell wine and even began making wine as a hobby. He had friends who had wineries and they would do projects together. But, as he jokes, somewhere along the way he became too big for his britches and eventually needed to become legal given the volumes he was creating. Thus Gorman Winery was founded.
In his early stages, Chris was “too cool for school” and did not want to be reviewed by wine critics. But, of course he was and received good scores, ultimately ensuring his success as a winemaker. Today, music is still a passion, but wine is no longer a hobby; it’s his fulltime vocation, yet clearly still a labor of love. Moreover, he is entirely self-taught and considers himself still learning.
Among the wines we tasted with him is Luanne. I asked if this was the name of a former girlfriend, but instead Luanne pays tribute to the wife of Dick Bouchey, a well-regarded, local grower, since Luanne picked the grapes that went into this white Rhone blend. In 2012, he set out to be the (self-proclaimed) Chardonnay King and presently makes six Chardonnays, which he refers to as the tofu of grapes. Big Sissy Chardonnay got its name because, according to Chris, “It is malleable, and you can beat it up.” Perhaps the culprit was his The Bully Cabernet Sauvignon? Most of the Chardonnays are produced under his Ashan Cellars label, which is the Hebrew word for smoky.
Beyond his other passions, Chris loves to cook and is happy to make dishes that take three hours to prepare.
Gramercy Cellars: Have a Dream, Will Travel “A Manhattan-based sommelier tastes some Washington State wines and is so inspired, he sells everything to move across the country to make his own.” If that’s not the opening to a maverick’s story, I don’t know what is. That Manhattan-based somm was Greg Harrington, who moved to Walla Walla in 2005 to focus on “old-world-meets-new Rhône and Bordeaux varietals” and established Gramercy Cellars (yes, that is an ode to New York City’s Gramercy Park). And while the story isn’t over yet, by 2014 he had been named Seattle Magazine’s Winemaker of the Year.
Among his latest ventures is Four Eleven, a wine bar and retail store in collaboration with Josh McDaniels of Bledsoe Family Wines. The two share the philosophy of not wanting to push boundaries with their wines. Rather, they want to maintain freshness and, to this end, they use less new wood and focus on whole cluster fermentation. In tasting his wines, this aim has been realized. Moreover, his Rhone Valley influence is evident in his Viognier, which he refers to as the gateway drug to his reds with its viscous texture, tropical fruit character and full body.
L’Ecole 41: Semillon’s Savior I’ve written about L’Ecole 41 previously, but it was with no less enthusiasm that I looked forward to becoming reacquainted with this winery and its wines on our trip. We met up at Walla Walla Steak Co. for a tasting with L’Ecole 41. No other winery is committed to the Semillon grape variety than L’Ecole 41 and in this regard, it was truly a pleasure to taste their age-worthy 2021 Luminiesce, a 70% Semillon/30% Sauvignon Blanc blend, with fruit sourced from the Seven Hills Vineyard. The 2019 Estate Merlot offered up beautiful plush and lush fruit. Yet, for all of their acclaim, in the end, owner Marty Clubb says we just make wines to drink and and that are well priced. L’Ecole 41 opened a new tasting room in Woodinville in early September 2022.
Patterson Cellars: In Close Collaboration with Community Launched in 2000, John Patterson founded Patterson Cellars with his father, Jack, who has been an instrumental part of the project, helping to support John both emotionally and financially. Today, Patterson produces 20,000 cases of wine utilizing Washington fruit from a variety of well-respected vineyards as well as the 14 acres he purchased in Walla Walla. In fact, John is known for his collaboration and community building, working closely with local growers as well as area wineries and collaborating with more than 40 in Woodinville alone.
Due to the significant growth, they are currently moving their production from Woodinville to Walla Walla since they’ve outgrown the space. This will also allow them to increase case production further. But, the Woodinville tasting room, which has been open since 2007, will continue to operate, along with the other four tasting rooms, including his newest one in downtown Seattle, which opened in 2018.
Here, the emphasis is on affordable prices and hospitality, the former of which is attributed to their good relationship with growers. With a burgeoning wine club of 2,000 members (and growing), they seek to curate high end food and wine experiences and have been working with local restaurants, chocolate and charcuterie partners and have developed a Late Harvest Roussanne gelato with Seattle’s Gelatiamo. In addition, they offer virtual classes. As additional evidence of the community they are building, Heidi West, their Director of Sales & Operations, is a former club member who became so enamored with the wines and the company that she completely changed careers and began working for them, eventually becoming a partner.
Rocky Pond Estate Winery: Getting a Label of the Land Owned by David and Michelle Dufenhorst, Rocky Pond Winery is situated on Lake Chelan and the Columbia River, directly three hours east of Woodinville in what is considered the northern tip of Washington wine. Their winery and two of their vineyards are situated within the latest AVA: Rocky Reach, which was designated in 2022 as Washington’s 20th American Viticultural Area. The Dufenhorsts hired Kevin Pogue, Professor of Geology at Whitman College to help write the petition for the new AVA to help delineate the unique characteristics of the area, which previously fell solely under the much larger Columbia Valley AVA.
In particular, the soils are significantly different with cobblestones and boulders; in fact, they found a 60-foot sized rock in one of the vineyards. These large stones are accompanied by quartz and mica, over a predominantly granitic bedrock, a feature it shares only with Lake Chelan. With lower elevations, and a resulting warmer climate and long growing season, the area is particularly lauded for its Cabernet Sauvignon, although the Rocky Pond grows over 20 different grape varieties.
The family’s further emphasis on their property is reflected in their participation in the Sustainable Washington’s pilot program (now an official certification program), which has been focused on seeing the bigger picture and making sure that everything is sustainable from the very start, not just with regard to the environment, but also with regard to elements such as the economy and safety training. Moreover, they have been able to recruit top talent to the winery, bringing on Elizabeth Keyser from Napa’s HALL Family Wines as well as make important investments in technology such as a recently acquired optical sorter. Adding to these enhancements, they will be opening up a boutique hotel and spa on their property in the near future.
Most recently, Rocky Pond opened a tasting room in Woodinville near Wine Alley. Like many of the tasting rooms they are very serious about hospitality and food and maintain two chefs on staff.
Sparkman Cellars: Damn Fine Wine Founded by Chris Sparkman and his wife, Kelly, a former wildlife biologist, Sparkman Cellars was launched in 2004 with the mantra, “Family. Good Livin’. Damn Fine Wine.” During our visit, we met up with Linn Scott, Sparkman’s Vice President and Winemaker at Walla Walla Steak Co. to taste a selection of foods from the new steakhouse menu as well as several of the Sparkman wines. While Linn advised that, “We make a lot of Cabernet Sauvignon,” interestingly, we tasted Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache and Malbec; not a Cabernet in sight on this particular occasion.
In this regard, the tasting underscored his other point: “Our weaknesses are our strengths, with Washington wine having such a diverse portfolio and no signature grape on which to hang its hat.” In perusing their website, they do have five Cabernet Sauvignons, but they are clearly willing to experiment and take risks. For example, the Preposterous Malbec was launched in 2009 as “a complete shot in the dark.” Yet the gamble paid off in spades: Their receipt of 94 points from Wine Spectator on the 2010 vintage “is still the highest scoring Malbec in Washington State history.” Some might say that’s simply preposterous 😉.
Time and Direction: Taking Direction of One’s Life Originally from Wisconsin, Steve Wells later settled in New York City (and coincidentally briefly lived on the same street as I do) under the tutelage of Master Sommelier, Laura Maniec (now Fiorvanti), at Blue Water Grill and Blue Fin restaurants. There, he developed a true love of wine and service. When he traveled to Washington state as part of the Washington Wine Commission‘s Road Trip Washington Wine in 2008, it was love at first taste. By 2011, he had convinced his wife and kids to make the move and they landed in Walla Walla where he began working in the tasting room at Gramercy Cellars (very fitting given the similarity in their origin stories).
After two years at Gramercy, he had the opportunity to pursue an Associate’s Degree at the Center for Enology and Viticulture at Walla Walla Community College, while also working with Aryn Morell, as a production assistant at M&L Production. In 2016, he launched his own brand, Time and Direction, taking its name from the distinctive tattoos that run the length of each of his arms that mark momentous moments in his life.*
I was initially introduced to Steve through a chance encounter with his 2020 Space Pants Mourvèdre at the Auction of Washington Wines’ Winemaker Picnic. This intriguing label caught my eye and its delicious palate caught my attention further. I then had the pleasure of sitting with him at the Gala Dinner the next night (another coincidence). As a further reflection of his engaging personality, his 2021 ‘1.21 Gigawatts’ White Rhone Blend is a nod to “Back to the Future” and his self-appointed title is Director of Awesome.
*From his website: “The clock and the compass tattoos are of my own design and are full of symbolism and meaning for me. The hands on the clock point to 1:02, the time my daughter was born and the face has her initials and birth date written on it. The compass is a reference to my family and is the reason that I work as hard as I do. The letters on the points may look like directions but are actually our initials and the symbols in the middle are our astrological symbols.”
Despite being in Woodinville for only three days, which included three food-focused events in connection with Auction of Washington Wines, I also managed to enjoy meals (or at least light bites) at three of the area restaurants.
For a casual, yet delicious Italian lunch or dinner, check out Vivi Pizzeria, which is perfectly situated alongside both the Gorman and Patterson tasting rooms in the Hollywood Hills District of Woodinville. Vivi is owned by husband and wife team of Rick and Riesa Ragan, who met and fell in love while they both worked at the Hyatt Regency in Bellevue. The pizza was yummy, but I especially appreciated the tip to try to fried artichokes, thanks to Carrie of the Pacific Northwest Wine Life & Style blog.
More upscale, yet still laid back is the brand-new Walla Walla Steak Co., which opened in Woodinville in late July. As I was advised by Executive Chef, Adam Reece, they focus on buying the freshest meat, limiting their purchase windows to certain times of the year. The restaurant is actually a connected restaurant concept with Walla Walla Steak Co. and Crossbuck Brewing each sharing the space, centered around a live-fire grill. The upstairs offers space for private events and group dining.
Finally, the date-night worthy The Lounge is a food porn dream. During the pandemic lockdown, DeLille Cellars did its best to remain solvent and busy by partnering with a local caterer with whom they previously worked. As a result, wine club members were able to drive up to the winery’s Woodinville location and depart with a delicious dinner and accompanying wines. It was a successful venture that they have since parlayed into a full-scale restaurant on site, which has quickly gained a well-deserved reputation. Managed by Executive Chef Michael C. Toni and Chef de Cuisine Taylor Kinnebrew, this gastronomic destination was recently named as the 4th best winery restaurant in the U.S. by USA TODAY.
Our multi-course lunch featured the following dishes:
5 spice yellowfin tuna with compressed watermelon macerated chilies citrus caviar ash farms micro pea shoots
Pork ragu al latte with fresh strozzopreti pasta lemon sage and pecorino
Cascadia Creamery Sleeping Beauty with house made bread crisps and fruit preserves
On a closing note, while we did not dine at the Woodinville Cut Shop, I did enjoy their signage and its nod to Tommy Tutone’s 1980s song. From their website: “The Woodinville Cut Shop is your neighborhood, good-timin’ roadhouse restaurant and lounge located on the Slough in Woodinville, WA. Open seating, order-at-the-bar kinda place. Burgers, sandwiches, salads, ribs, tacos, fries, local craft beers, and the rough stuff done right. Covered & heated outdoor seating, fire pit, big screen TVs and always kid-friendly until we’re definitely not.”
While many people are familiar with California wine, Washington wine might be a new discovery. Moreover, for those that do know that Washington State makes wine, they are likely thinking of damp, rainy Seattle. But, that’s not the real story. Rather, the majority of Washington grapes are grown east of the Cascade Mountains. What that means is that the cold, wet weather we associate with Seattle stays on the West Coast while the state’s interior provides desert-like conditions. In many cases, grape growing is made possible here due to irrigation. There is also a blend of wide, open land, mountains and hence, altitude, all of which impact the climate and growing conditions of these grapes.
Thanks to this climate, this is Cabernet and Syrah country, not Pinot Noir territory, which is a grape more appropriately correlated with Oregon. Consequently, while only three hours away from Seattle, Washington wine is truly a world away from one’s initial conception. Yet, as I recently discovered, there are many opportunities to become acquainted with these wines without having to travel too far.
Moreover, this is an exciting time for the state and its wines as it stands on a precipice for even further greatness. These are well made, balanced wines, representing good value, diversity and innovation. As I spent three days immersed in Washington wine, I grew more and more bullish about what is to come and treasured the interactions with the passionate people who are behind these amazing wines.
The Washington wine industry is definitely one to watch and I strongly recommend seeking these wines out if and when you have the opportunity. Admittedly, many of these wines never make it beyond the confines of the state, but if you find them at a retailer or restaurant near you, I highly encourage you to check them out.
Further, you can create an exciting, wine-oriented weekend (or longer) with visits to Woodinville or even Seattle, without the lengthier drive to the Columbia Valley and beyond.
Where to weekend: The Wonders of Woodinville
Situated 25 miles northeast of Seattle, Woodinville, WA was initially home to a logging industry which was then replaced by agriculture. Yet, today, none of that remains and, instead, the area has been thoroughly converted into the epicenter of Washington wine.
With its tagline, “Where Washington pours,” Woodinville is home to 120 wine tasting rooms representing 19 of 20 AVAs (American Viticultural Areas), 10 breweries and five distilleries. Sixty of those wineries actually produce wine in the Woodinville area while the remainder have their winemaking facilities elsewhere.
What makes Woodinville particularly unique is that it makes the wineries accessible to tourists who might be visiting Seattle for a short period of time such as on a business trip or before or after a cruise. This is a perfect foray into Washington wine with a plethora of tasting rooms and restaurants from which to choose. There is an incredible focus on hospitality and each tasting room has its own unique approach to serving guests, but all are excited to welcome you to taste their wines and enjoy the experience.
Woodinville got its start as a wine-centric town in 1976, when Chateau Ste Michelle established it’s beautiful French-style chateau winery building, vineyards and winemaking facilities there. It took some time for the area to catch on, but it is now in the midst of significant growth and expansion, yielding even more opportunities for people to learn about Washington wine and other state-centric products.
Within the town borders there are four main districts, each with its own personality and focus. Established about 15 years ago, the Warehouse District has become an incubator for up-and-coming producers and small batch productions. This is often a place for hobbyists to get their start. In contrast, the West Valley District has become more industrial and is home to the majority of distilleries and breweries.
Named for an old schoolhouse, which presently serves as the tasting room for Maryhill Winery, the Hollywood Hills District caters to tourism and will soon be home to a 22-acre project in development which will include a 128-room hotel called Somm, under Marriott’s Autograph Collection. The property will also include event space, dining facilities and a custom blending operation. This accommodation will join the existing boutique Willows Lodge, with its Barking Frog restaurant and luxury spa.
Most notably, the Downtown District has seen incredible investment in retail and residential real estate. In particular, the area has seen the building of 1,599 new housing units, including high-end apartments and single-family residences, which appeal to both retirees and young, tech folks. With close proximity to Redmond, Bellevue, Tacoma and Seattle (and thus the headquarters for Microsoft, Space X, Amazon, Costco and more), as well as skiing and other activities, there are many people interested in moving in. There are number of new tasting rooms here, too, such as the brand-new outpost for Rocky Pond Estate Winery.*
The job of shepherding and spearheading promotion of the area falls to Woodinville Wine Country and during my visit, I had the wonderful opportunity to meet Adam Acampora, who joined the organization earlier this year as Executive Director. His background is both on target and unusual coming from Tennessee where he ran the state wine program there, not a place most frequently associated with wine. But he is well versed in wine, marketing and hospitality and is well poised to lead the renaissance well underway.
As new restaurants (such as the newly opened Walla Walla Steak Co.*), wineries (L’Ecole 41* coming soon) and hotels continue to make the move to Woodinville, the town will become an even bigger draw for residents and tourists alike. This is truly a wonderful, weekend getaway to immerse yourself in Washington wine.
Where to weekend: Seattle Sips
If you are more pressed for time or simply don’t want to leave the confines of Seattle proper, you still have tasting options. First and foremost, most Seattle-area restaurants feature Washington wines on their menus, both by the glass and bottle. In particular, check out Purple Café, with locations in both downtown Seattle and Woodinville.
The historic Pioneer Square area counts itself as Seattle’s first neighborhood, incorporated in 1869. The area is currently home to two tasting rooms: Four Eleven Wine and Browne Family Vineyards.
The Four Eleven Wine lounge is collaboration between Bledsoe Family Winery* and Gramercy Cellars*, both of the Walla Walla Valley, who looked to find a shared tasting room on the West side of Washington State. The result is Four Eleven Wine. Open daily, the space offers a traditional tasting room experience until 5:00pm and wine seminars on Tuesday evenings, along with a wine bar and full retail selection of local and international wine selections.
Two doors down, situated in the 1906 Sellar Building, designed by architect A. Warren Gould, Brown Family Vineyards* opened their Seattle tasting room in 2017. The winery was inspired and named for William Bitner Browne, the late grandfather of proprietor Andrew Browne. The tasting room offers various tasting flights and is also available for private parties and events.
Just steps from Pike Place Market, The Tasting Room offers a selection of wines from winemaker owned wineries in the state. On any given day, over 60 different wines are available to taste in flights (four one-ounce pours) or by the glass. Open daily, with live music on Friday nights.
And, if you didn’t get enough wine while in Woodinville or in town, there’s always a final hurrah at the airport. Located in the Central Terminal and open daily 12pm – 9pm, Vyne Washington Tasting Room exclusively serves Washington state wines and was awarded “Best New Food and Beverage” full-service concept by the Airports Council International – North America.
Where in the world is Washington wine? It’s at the top of its game and hopefully in your glass. Now you just have to start planning your weekends away!
*NB: More to come in a future story or stories on these wineries and restaurants.
What’s in your glass? If you answered Merlot or Chardonnay, you’re only half right. The truth is that wine is a product of grapes and place (and to a slightly lesser extent, people), so what’s in your glass also includes where the grapes were grown and how those who made the wine chose to interpret them.
When I taught consumer wine classes on a regular basis, I used to have my “Great Grape” series, which I affectionately referred to as “Same Grape, Different Neighborhood”. In each class, I guided the group through a selection of wines all produced from the same grape variety (i.e. Chardonnays or Merlots), but which had been grown in different places around the world. The intention was to familiarize them with the general characteristics of a given grape, while providing them with concrete evidence of how climate, soil and winemaking techniques ultimately impacted the finished wine.
So I was extremely excited when I received the unusual invitation to similarly compare and contrast wines from Italy’s Alto Adigewith those from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. I had written about Alto Adige previously, having attended various seminars and also having visited the region, but this was a unique look for sure. The seminar, held at Manhatta Restaurant, was moderated by Laura Williamson, MS and mostly presented by Martin Foradori Hofstatter from Tenuta J. Hofstatter. Davide Ungaro from Cantina Bolzano, Remy Drabkin of Remy Wines and David Adelsheim of Adelsheim Vineyards were also present to share about Willamette and its wines. Overall, the seminar itself was quite technical and, while interesting to the trade, the details of which are likely too mundane to share with the average wine consumer. Yet, it was a wonderful opportunity to use a unique lens to look at two fascinating and fabulous wine regions.
Ultimately, these two winegrowing regions have a lot in common, but, not surprisingly, produce different styles due to the differences underscored during the seminar such as climatic conditions (see chart below). In that vein, fans of one should definitely venture out and try the other. Moreover, they are both equally at home at the table and offer up diversity and a range of styles from which to choose. Love Pinot Grigio? Enjoy Alto Adige’s options tonight and Oregon’s tomorrow. No need to get stuck in a vinous rut.
At the end of the day, it’s all about high quality wines made by real people who are focused on understanding their land to craft the very best wines from it.
BY the NUMBERS… Comparing & Contrasting Top Grapes by Region
Remy Wines Fischerman’s Pinot Gris 2021, Yamhill-Carlton, OR From grapes sourced from the Walker Vineyard, on ungrafted vines, with notes of smoke, higher acidity, fresh, medium body, long length (lovely and fresh).
Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco 2019 Vorberg, Alto Adige Medium to full bodied, with medium acidity, red apple, slight citrus, and a hint of wood in the undercurrent. Long length.
Adelsheim Vineyards, Staking Claim Chardonnay 2019, Chehalem Mountains, OR Austere and elegant, with medium body, medium+ acidity, minerality, citrus and slight green apple, barely perceptible oak, and a slight reductive note.
Castel Juval Unterortl Pinot Nero Riserva 2018, Alto Adige Val Venosta From the most northly Pinot Noir vineyards of Alto Adige, this wine has aromas of cherries and fresh and dried herbs. Dry and fresh, with medium body, very herbal in undercurrent, earthy in the finish, with long length.
Tenuta J. Hofstatter Pinot Nero 2017, Alto Adige Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano Sourced from older parcels planted in 1962 and 1990, notes of earth, darker cherries and a hint of wood greet the nose. Fresh, fruit driven, with a slight herbal hint in the finish. This is a lighter style wine with lighter body but still good concentration of fruit.
Adelsheim Vineyards, Breaking Ground Pinot Noir 2019, Chehalem Mountains, OR This wine is blend of grapes grown on three different soil types in an effort to figure out how to make great wine. Of the two Adelsheim Pinots, this one is less ripe, with cherries and orange peel aromas. Dry, with medium acidity, medium body, cherry, herbs, and long length.
Adelsheim Vineyards, Quarter Mile Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018, Chehalem Mountains, OR This wine is more ripe, with a sweeter, jammier red fruit nose. The palate offers up riper fruit of rich cherries and spice with fuller body, and long length.
The Lagrein variety is related to Pinot Noir, but not sure of total origin, grape with lots of acid and aggressive tannins.
Cantina Bolzano Lagrein Riserva 2018 Taber Alto Adige This is a single vineyard wine, which underwent two years of aging, one of them in oak. It has an intense nose of black fruit and floral, with firm, medium++ tannins, medium+ body, and flavors of intense, concentrated candied violets and blueberry, culminating in long length.
Peter Zemmer Lagrein Riserva Furggl 2018, Alto Adige As a Riserva wine, this wine also spent two years aging, with six months in large oak vessels and 12 months in barriques. This wine has aromas of smoke and black fruit, and is more tannic with fuller body than the Cantina Bolzano Lagrein.
Remy Wines, Lagrein 2019, Dundee Hills, OR In addition to making wine from traditional Oregon varieties, Remy also focuses on those from Northern Italy, including Lagrein. Hers is floral, with tart cherry fruit, and oak notes, and full bodied with firm tannins.
Additional Wines Served with Lunch (more limited tasting notes)
With the First Course: Snap pea panzanella with grapefruit and pink peppercorn
Tenuta J. Hofstatter Barthenau Vigna S. Michele Pinot Bianco 2020 – tree and stone fruit
What’s the story, morning glory? As written previously, Chile is hot! And, as I discovered recently, it’s Sauvignon Blancs are really cool. These fresh, crisp white wines are a great option for summer especially with the heat waves we’ve experienced recently on both sides of the Atlantic.
But, more importantly, the story is that Chile is defining and refining what it wants to produce when it comes to Chilean Sauvignon Blanc.
Moreover, this grape is going gangbusters. First brought to Chile by Claudio Gray in 1841, it had a slow start. In fact, the variety represented only a small portion of vineyard plantings by the mid-2000s. Yet, it has seen a significant rise in plantings since that time, growing from 18,300 acres (Oxford Companion to Wine, 4th edition, Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, Oxford University Press, 2015) to 37,614 as of 2019 (Wines of Chile seminar, 7/26/2022). Today, Sauvignon Blanc represents Chile’s second most widely planted variety and accounts for 40% of all white grapes grown in the country with vines found mainly across the Coastal and Central Valley regions. This sustained growth period has been coincident with Chile’s increased expertise and knowledge.
In particular, it was Pablo Morandé of Viña Morandé who, influenced by cool climate whites from California’s Sonoma County, sought to recreate Chile’s own version, noticing how the cool breeze impacted the wines. He selected Sauvignon Blanc as his grape of choice and the Chilean Coastal Range as his terroir.
As more growers have gotten on board with this vision, the country has developed its own unique style of Sauvignon Blanc that is heavily influenced by the cool climate that Chile provides. Specifically, the vast 600-mile wide, Humboldt current that runs from Antarctica to the North Pole is responsible for cool temperatures (52-57°F), fog and morning mist that maintain high acidity, keep the pyrazines (which translate into herbaceous characteristics) and purity of fruit flavors.
Within Chile, the wineries are further delineating their regions and sub regions. As was heard by Sofia Araya of Veramonte (see story), there is a philosophical shift from grape to geography as the climate conditions now take center stage when considering what grapes to grow where and what style of wine is desired.
In this vein, there are three distinct Sauvignon Blanc growing regions: >>Coastal Sauvignon Blanc: Humboldt and Coastal Range These tend to be very herbaceous with jalapeno, grass and asparagus notes and high acid citrus including lime and lemon, along with full bodies with good acidity. >>Inland Sauvignon Blanc: Central Valley and the Andes Slopes A slightly warmer climate, this area produces Sauvignon Blancs with more grapefruit and topical fruit notes. >>Southern Sauvignon Blanc: The Deep South – Patagonia and Bio Bio These wines typically have really high acidity due to the soil and climate.
The finished wines are further impacted by the diversity of soils within the Coastal Range. For example, Casablanca has iron and marcillo soils, while Limari is dominant in limestone and granite.
As a result, there is a recognizable thread that runs through all of these wines, while each has its own unique flavor profile and attributes, due to microclimates as well as different winemaking approaches.
And, as Chilean winemakers seek to produce for the higher end of the market, these are wines with complexity, concentration and balance. Admittedly, they share the same DNA as New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs and Sancerre, but they offer their own, distinct style, character and expression.
At a recent virtual seminar, members of the wine press were given the opportunity to taste through a selection of eight Coastal Range Sauvignon Blancs, learning more about these wines from Joaquín Hidalgo of Vinous.com, an authority on South American wines as well as about Chile’s market in general from Julio Alonso, Executive Director USA for Wines of Chile.
TASTING NOTES
Viña Morandé Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $20 Pablo Morandé is a pioneer in the area. This is a single vineyard in the warmest part of Casablanca, away from ocean. The wine displays high acidity, with lime, lemon and a slightly woody note.
Matetic Vineyards EQ Coastal Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $20 This family owned winery practices organic viticulture and is situated in the Rosario Valley of Casablanca. There is black mica in the soils. The wine is predominantly citrus and white nectarine, with some salinity.
Casas del Bosque La Cantera Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $18 Hailing from the coldest spot in Casablanca, closest to the ocean, this wine is very fresh, concentrated and expressive, undergoing lees contact, with notes of grapefruit and herbs.
Montes Wines Limited Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $15 With grapes sourced from Leyda, close to the Pacific Ocean, this fresh wine shows very lemony in character with good acidity and minerality.
Viña Koyle Costa La Flor Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $18 An organic and biodynamic producer, this is situated in San Antonio, Leyda. The wine has more weight and soil presence on the palate, with riper apricot and tropical fruit flavors.
Viña Garcés Silva Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2020 / SRP $25 Also from Leyda, this wine has well integrated acidity and fresh flavors of citrus, herbs, white flowers with some lees contact.
Ventisquero Wine Estates Grey Sauvignon Blanc 2019 / SRP $25 These grapes are grown in granitic and gravel soils along the Huasco River in the Atacama Desert, one of the driest places on earth. The wine is aged over its lees for ten months in large foudres to soften the wine, with offers up lots of lime, minerality and salinity.
Viña Tabalí Talinay Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $24 Next to the ocean near the Limari River, these grapes are also grown in desert conditions. This wine is citrus dominant with a distinct herbal undercurrent.
