Category Archives: Wine Regions

Ramon Bilbao reinvents Rioja, yet stays true to tradition

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The familiar adage is “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” but when the Zamora family purchased the Ramon Bilbao company in 1999, they had other plans. Admittedly, they didn’t break what was working, but they did choose to expand the way that the company thought about its Riojas.

Originally founded by the Bilbao family, the Ramon Bilbao winery has been making wine in the heart of Rioja, since 1924. Situated in Haro, within the Rioja Alta subzone, the estate’s 180 hectares of vineyards are influenced by both the Cantabrian Mountains and an Atlantic Ocean climate influence, bringing fresh, dry winds and keeping humidity at bay. Here, sandy, yellow-colored soils are favored for their high calcareous content, which is good for retaining acidity in Tempranillo, the key variety in Rioja. And, thanks to careful manual harvesting, vines are able to live a long time, with 50-90-year-old Tempranillo vines being a common occurrence.

Upon making its purchase, Zamora brought in a new winemaker, Rodolfo Bastida, a locally born and bred Spaniard who had been making wine elsewhere before landing at Ramon Bilbao. Among his first tasks in his new role was to make a Rioja that was a radical departure from tradition. Specifically, Bastida crafted a Rioja that was aged, not in traditional American oak, but rather, in French oak.

The thought process was to create a more modern, yet still true to its heritage, wine. Thus, Mirto was born! Named for a local bush that grows wild in the area, when the Mirto bush looks healthy, it indicates that the vintage will be a good one. Not surprisingly, Mirto (the wine) is only made in great vintages (in other words, when its namesake looks especially healthy!). Produced since 1999, the Mirto style has been a more structured wine, which is both fresh and elegant, driven more by fruit than oak influence.

Of course, as noted, there was no reason to completely abandon the tried and true traditional Rioja, so Bastida continues to produce a Gran Reserva Rioja under the Ramon Bilbao brand name, which follows a more traditional production. In this regard, the Ramon Bilbao wine is aged for a longer period of time (36 months) in American oak. Meanwhile, the Mirto generally spends only 24 months in French oak, utilizing a combination of barrels from different coopers. Bastida admits that it is a fun process to create two separate styles of Rioja.

Among the other changes that Zamora has made has been a new-found focus on altitude and one on terroir. Specifically, in 2012 they turned their attention to exploring altitude and new vineyard areas to combat climate change. In this regard, their vineyards are located at 600 to 700 meters above sea level, which might not be excessively high, but compared to other areas in Spain, it is. Then, in 2014, the winery became more terroir driven as they sought out better parcels, which is a departure for a wine that is traditionally a blend of areas.

During a special tasting for press and trade, participants had the opportunity to compare and contrast the traditional Ramon Bilbao Gran Reserva with the more modern Mirto. It was an exciting and illuminating experience to explore these two different styles of wine, both of which reflect the true nature of Rioja wine.


TASTING NOTES
Vina Turzaballa* Gran Reserva 1999
Produced from 100% Tempranillo and aged for 40 months in American oak, this is a typically classic, aged Rioja. It showed some bricking in the glass and some development on the nose, with notes of dried floral and dried fruit. On the palate, it was dry, with high acidity, nice evolution, faded fruit on palate, culminating in long length. It was my favorite wine of the tasting.
*This wine is no longer produced and has been replaced with the Ramon Bilbao Gran Reserva

Mirto 1999
Also made from 100% Tempranillo, but aged for only 24 months in French oak, in comparison, this wine was almost youthful. There was much less evidence of age in both its color and on the nose. Aromas and flavors of strawberry and plum dominated the nicely structured palate, which offered up good acidity and long length.

Ramon Bilbao Gran Reserva 2004
A blend of 90% Tempranillo, 7% Mazuelo and 3% Graciano, this wine was aged for 36 months in American oak. It displayed aromas of strawberry, vanilla, oak, slight floral, which persisted on the dry palate. Medium+ acidity, medium body, flavors of spice and leather, with long length.

Mirto 2004
This 100% Tempranillo wine spent 24 months in French oak. It was brighter with fresher, yet darker (more black than red) fruit, showing some complexity and, in general, a more structured palate. It was my favorite of the Mirtos.

Ramon Bilbao Gran Reserva 2011
Bringing together 90% Tempranillo, 65 Graciano and 4% Mazuelo, this wine spent 26 months in American oak. It had a pronounced nose of strawberry and cherry aromas. The dry palate was dominated by nice spice notes and firm tannins, and long length.

Mirto 2014
Made from 100% Tempranillo and aged for 19 months in French oak, this wine offered up very firm tannins and needs time to age. Dry, with bright acidity, angular, cherry, black cherry, long length.

These latter two wines need time to develop in bottle and soften their tannins.

Oregon’s OG Wines

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Sure, Oregon wines are fashionable now, but back in the 1970s, no one was planting grapes in the Willamette Valley. The area was filled with peach trees, walnuts and blackberries, as many of the vineyard block names at Sokol Blosser can attest. But, in the early part of that decade, three brave families ventured into the region with the deep conviction that this was a very special place in which to make great wine.

These self-dubbed “Oregon Originals” – the Ponzi, Campbell and Sokol Blosser families – arrived relatively concurrently in a variety of vehicles ready to hit the ground running, with their kids: Luisa, Anna Maria, Adam (and his siblings), Alex and Allison in tow.

As pioneers clearing the land and putting their faith in Pinot Noir, the three families would get together on a regular basis, sharing ideas and finding community with one another. Similarly, the children grew up as friends and remain so to this day.

Back then, it was not chichi for your family to own a vineyard and the kids were often ridiculed by their peers and their parents called drunkards. Today, these “kids” are all grown up and have taken over the leadership of their family’s wineries, representing the second generation of Oregon wine producers. Their wineries remain committed to Pinot Noir and are still family owned.

Similarly, they are all equally committed to being stewards of the land and the community and feel that it is important to work together. With this overarching philosophy, the three wineries, led by winemakers Luisa Ponzi (Ponzi VIneyards), Adam Campbell (Elk Cove) and Alex Sokol Blosser (Sokol Blosser), recently came together to collaborate on a special cuvée. Each winery contributed fruit from a single block of Pinot Noir, with each winemaker ultimately making three separate wines from the three different parcels of fruit. These nine wines then served as the components for the final blend.

Members of the press and trade were invited to a special seminar to taste through these components in a true demonstration of “land versus hand.” Interestingly, the overwhelming consensus among the winemakers was that the best wines were those that had been produced using one’s own fruit, underscoring the importance of really understanding the grapes to create great wine. Not surprisingly, the finished wine, 2017 2GV Pinot Noir Cuvée, focused heavily on these three components.

As a limited production wine (350 cases), 2GV was crafted primarily as a charitable effort, but is available online for purchase by the bottle, from the Ponzi Vineyards website.



NB: Purchase does not entail being a member of Ponzi’s wine club, and as I understand it, provided an adult is on hand to sign for and accept receipt, Ponzi can ship direct to consumers anywhere within the U.S.

Hess’s Lions Head Luxury Collection, taming lions and tannins

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A few weeks ago, I was about to run out the door to a wine event when I noticed a torn wrapper on the floor. Upon further investigation, I realized that our dog had gotten hold of an unopened chocolate bar and had proceeded to enjoy the taboo treat. Since chocolate is poisonous to canines, I immediately rushed her to the vet who took care of her right away. Thankfully, she has since made a full recovery.

Needless to say, it was a stressful day and that night I very much wanted a glass of wine – a good glass of wine – because life is too short. And, somehow between managing clients and caring for the dog, I felt a bit like I was herding cats.

Or, perhaps, as I reached for the bottle of wine… a lion tamer? I had previously tasted the Hess Collection wines at a luncheon last year and had been quite impressed. Thus, when the opportunity to taste two new releases came up, I pounced (OK, I’m done with the feline puns, I promise).

In any case, the lion has long been associated with the Hess family whose crest proudly features a byzantine-style lion and the animal has always adorned the family’s alcoholic pursuits. It previously graced the labels of the family’s beer business and was then adopted for the winery. More recently, it has been adapted and designed for the label of the “Lion Tamer,” which launched last year and more strongly recalls the history of the original Hess crest.

Not surprisingly, the Hess family motto is “Live Each Day with the Heart and Courage of The Lion.” The lion’s Latin name, Panthera Leo, gives rise to the winery’s newest addition to the Lions Head Luxury Collection. This collection represents the most recent development at Hess, currently under the direction of Donald Hess’ son-in-law Tim Persson, and wife, Sabrina.

Hess Collection Panthera Chardonnay 2016. Russian River Valley, USA, $45.00
This launch release is produced from 100% Chardonnay and was aged in 35% new French oak for 15 months. Slight buttery notes, a hint of oak and vanilla and apple greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is dry, concentrated, rich and ripe, with apple, pear, nuts and butter/creamy flavors. It is medium+-bodied, with medium acidity, good balanced, elegance and long length.

Hess Collection “Lion Tamer” Red Blend 2016, Napa Valley, USA, $45.00
A changing blend, the latest release brings together 40% Malbec, 27%  Zinfandel, 21% Petite Sirah, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Mourvèdre, 1% Petite Verdot, 1% Merlot, which has been aged in 40% new French oak for 22 months. Aromas of plum, blackberries, blueberries and vanilla, give way to a full-bodied, dry, rich and ripe palate, with concentrated fruit of mulberry, bright, juicy acidity, ripe tannins and long length.

Tio Pepe proves that its Sherry is up to the challenge

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I have previously extolled the virtues of Sherry, but it bears repeating: Sherry is super food-friendly, delicious and produced in a wide range of styles suitable for nearly anytime and any occasion. Sherry is also super versatile, as was demonstrated earlier this month at the Tio Pepe Challenge.

The 2019 edition of the Challenge marked the sixth year of this international competition, which brings bartenders and mixologists head to head with the goal of crafting the perfect Sherry cocktail. Held in mid-April, the six national finalists converged in New York city at Osamil to compete.

Each person was required to complete a blind tasting, demonstrate their Sherry pouring technique wielding a venencia and last but not least, participate in a cocktail showdown. The competing cocktails featured different Tio Pepe products and ranged from sweet to super savory (toasted sesame seeds, anyone?).

Judged by Master Blender Antonio Flores, International Brand Ambassador Álvaro Plata, and Courtney Schiessl of The Tasting Panel, the U.S. Final saw Javier Ortega Diaz of Vegas’ The Libertine Social beat out Joshua Fossitt, Carlie Steiner, Tiana Dillard, Alexander Lazzari, and Patrick McDonald. As the winner, Diaz will travel to participate in the International Final on May 15 in Jerez, Spain.

Guests at the event could taste the cocktails and also had the opportunity to taste other Tio Pepe sherries, while enjoying a selection of oysters, tapas and other light bites. Overall, the Challenge proved that Sherry can hold its own in the bar setting as well as it does at the tapas bar or table.

Here is the recipe to the winning cocktail:
Sophia by Javier Ortega Diaz, The Libertine Social, Las Vegas. WINNER

2 oz. Tio Pepe Fino Sherry

¾ oz. blood orange liqueur

½ oz. freshly squeezed Lime Juice

½ oz. homemade kumquat, rosemary, thyme syrup

1 oz. homemade sparkling hibiscus water

Garnish with slice kumquats, rosemary, thyme, and edible flowers.

Yarden and Purim: A Day of Lots with Lots to Celebrate

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Life is often about fate. Whether you believe fate is predestined or that you make your own is another story, but it all comes down to series of different choices and their resulting consequences. This is the underpinning of the Story of Esther, which features prominently in the celebration of Purim. The Purim holiday takes its name from the Hebrew word for lots, since the fate of the Jewish people had been sealed by the wicked Haman who had cast lots as to which date their extermination would take place. Fortunately, his plot was foiled by the bravery of Queen Esther, and instead of the Jews being sent to the gallows, it was Haman who met his demise on that fateful day.

With such an emphasis on fate, it was fitting to meet Victor Schoenfeld of Yarden Winery on Purim this month. Thankfully, Victor’s own fate has never been so dire (at least not that I am aware), but it was a series of individual choices that he made that have brought him to his current role and place in the wine industry.

In pursuit of his love of food and the land, Victor first enrolled at UC Santa Cruz to study agriculture and later transferred to UC Davis to pursue a degree in viticulture. It was after spending a year managing a vineyard that convinced him that he needed to expand his knowledge to understand both grape growing and wine making, prompting him to fulfill the degree requirements in the latter as well. His next fateful decision was to accept a three-year contract to work for Yarden Winery, uprooting himself from Glen Ellen, California to the Golan Heights in Israel.

Arriving in 1991, Victor never expected to stay on beyond his initial contract, but today, 28 years later, he still holds the position of Chief Winemaker and is at the helm of 6-person team, all in pursuit of crafting quality wine. Having joined Yarden early on in its creation (the winery was originally established in 1983), Victor has been blessed with an amazing opportunity to truly grow the winery from the ground up. Currently, Yarden is a leader in the Israeli wine industry, making significant investments in research and development that is shaping its winemaking and that of its neighboring wineries.

When Victor first appeared on the scene, little was known about the region, but in the intervening years, he and his colleagues have come to better understand the climate, soils and the best way to grow grapes in the Golan Heights. As a country, Israel is relatively small, but it has a very diverse climate, which significantly impacts grape growing. As Victor notes, the key is to look to elevation to achieve the necessary cooler climate to maintain good acidity and freshness. Accordingly, whites are grown at 3,000-4,000 feet above sea level and reds can be found at an elevation of 2,000 feet. The soils are a combination of volcanic soils and even older mountain soils.

Now that they appreciate the nuances of their terroir, the emphasis is firmly on achieving even ripeness, which they do by carefully planning where the various vines will be planted. This permits them to get a good expression of varietal character. Once the grapes are ready to be picked, their quality control is further aided through hand harvesting and the use of optical sorting, ensuring that only the very best grapes find their way into the wine.  

Other areas of exploration undertaken by the winery have focused on ensuring quality rootstocks and vines. In this regard, Yarden has received ENTAV licensing for their own propagation area, growing vines and wood, with the goal of eradicating the country’s problem with leaf roll virus.

Additionally, they received certification from Lodi Rules Sustainable Winegrowing Program for their practices in the vineyard, the first winery outside of California to receive this recognition and a testament to Yarden’s commitment to the environment. This considerable accomplishment is bolstered by the winery’s use of solar power, recycling programs and development of an organic vineyard.

Overall, the various projects have permitted Victor and his team to use high tech tools to measure and understand how to grow great grapes and make excellent wine, such as their creation of a new way to measure vineyard strength. Consequently, they can react to any issues and make corrections as needed. As they continue to discover more about their land and how to best care for it, Victor notes that they are in the middle of a journey and adds that he is excited about what they are doing and learning.

Looking ahead, it is clear that the winery will continue to produce high quality wines that are both age-worthy and worthy of attention. What Victor’s fate will continue to bring, only time will tell, but for now, he continues to lead his team to good fortune and great wine. And, that, is definitely worth celebrating!

TASTING NOTES
Yarden Katzrin Blanc de Blancs late disgorged 2007, $105.99
This Traditional Method sparkling wine spent 10 years on the lees. Fresh with lively acidity, nice perlage, yeasty, toasty and citrus aromas and flavors, with good length.

Yarden Gewurztraminer 2017, $22.99
A pronounced nose of lychee, tropical fruit, spice and jasmine. Dry on the palate, with just a hint of ripeness, good acidity, slight oily texture, long length.

Yarden Chardonnay Odem Organic Vineyard 2016, $22.99
As Victor notes, “Oak is never the point…” of a wine, “It is a tool.” This wine spent 7 months aged in French oak barrels, with the wood well integrated into the wine. Dry, good acidity, good structure, not too heavy, creamy and round on the palate.

Yarden Katzrin Chardonnay 2017, $38.99
This Chardonnay is a blend of several different vineyards, taken from the most concentrated lots. Fresher than the Odem, but with more overt oak due to the lengthier aging (9 months). Still very youthful and will evolve in the bottle with time. Full bodied, apple, spice, angular, long length.

Yarden Merlot 2014, $30.99
Notes of plum, wood, coffee; dry, with ripe fruit, spice and medium tannins, giving way to long length.

Yarden Merlot Odem Organic Vineyard 2014, $105.99
More herbal in character than the previous Merlot. Spice, wood, plum, ripe, firmer tannins with earthy concentration, culminating in long length.

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, $35.99
As Yarden’s most awarded wine, this iconic Israeli wine is a diplomat for the winery. Beautifully balanced, with black fruit, good acidity, full bodied, firm ripe tannins, can age 15-20 years.

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon Bar’on Vineyard 2014, $105.99
Aromas and flavors of black berry, slight spice, herbs, it is ripe and fresh, with long length.

Yarden Katzrin 2011, $212.99
A Bordeaux-style blend, this wine is named for the town in which the winery is located. This vintage is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Merlot; more recent vintages include small percentages of Malbec and Petit Verdot. It has been aged for 24 months in French oak barrels. Brooding, menthol, black fruit, showing slight development, intense and concentrated, ripe, yet elegant, herbal, luscious, ripe tannins, with long length.

Yarden T2 2011, $22.50
This fortified, dessert-style wine is a blend of the Portuguese varieties of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao, which took some time to get established in the vineyard. It is aged for 28 months in French oak barrels. It displays a Port-like nose, with concentrated spice, cocoa and red fruit aromas, medium sweet, but beautifully balanced with bright acidity and long length.

You say Garnacha, I say Grenache

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Whether you call it Garnacha or Grenache, this great grape is finally getting the recognition it deserves! Last week, in a very special campaign – the first time that two countries are collaborating in the promotion of wine – a unique dinner featuring the wines of Grenache & Garnacha was held at La Nacional Restaurant. The restaurant is operated under the auspices of the Spanish Benevolent Society, first established in 1868 to “promote, encourage and spread the spirit of fraternity and solidarity among Spanish and Hispanic-American residents of this country.”

Although the society’s role has morphed over the years as the Spanish immigrant population has declined, it still exists in the promotion of Spanish culture. To this end, most recently, they have taken back its space to launch a public restaurant, bringing top chefs from Spain to create authentic Spanish meals. And, it was the perfect setting in which to enjoy these wonderful wines.

Among the oldest grape varieties in the world, Grenache (aka Garnacha) is the second most planted red variety in the world. Within the Garnacha grape family, there are actually four different grapes: red, grey, white and velvet. First grown in the Spanish Kingdom of Aragon, Garnacha thrives in the hot and dry climate, suitable for dry farming. Given its ability to do so well in harsh conditions – it is wind resistant, drought resistant, disease resistent and does well in acidic soils – Garnacha has been hailed as one of the most eco-friendly grapes in the world. Interestingly, with the grape’s sensitivity to soil types, it is often referred to as the Pinot Noir of Spain.

Today, 97% of Garnacha vines are found in just two countries: France and Spain. Between the two countries, the majority of the vineyards are located within the adjacent areas of Calatyud, Campo de Borja, Carinena, Somontano, Terra Alta and Roussillon. Yet despite the relatively compact area, the grapes produce a wide range of styles, showcasing the diversity of the variety. In this regard, Grenache produces: sparkling and still wines; light-bodied and full-bodied whites; roses; light-bodied and full-bodied reds; and fortified sweet wines. Additionally, today, many old vines still exist, creating rich, concentrated wines. Moreover, the focus has shifted away from the use of small, new oak barrels to older and larger oak vessels that impart less overt oak flavor and aromas to the resulting wines.

Over the course of our dinner, we had the great opportunity to sample delicious food paired with five beautifully made Garnacha and Grenache wines, illustrating their pleasure-inducing and food-friendly nature.

TASTING NOTES

Las Moradas de San Martin, Senda 2014, Vinos de Madrid, Spain, $14.00
Under the direction of a female winemaker, Las Moradas de San Martin is working toward receiving organic viticulture status and is home to 190 year old vines. This wine is 100% red Garnacha, with notes of cherry, plum, spice, a slight tannic grip, long length and a slight oxidative note.
Paired with a selection of Spanish cheeses.

Domaine Gardies, Clos des Vignes 2015, Cotes du Roussillon, France, $33.00
This 5th generation family estate boasts old vines, including the 75 year old vines grown on chalky soils that produced this wine. It is a blend of 60% white Grenache, 35% grey Grenache and 5% Macabeu and Roussanne, vinified in and then aged in large, old, wood vessels for one year before release. Beautifully complex with aromas of floral, acacia, anisette, fennel, wood and a hint of oxidation, along with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, flavors of citrus, stone in finish, culminating in long length. Ageworthy.
Paired with Octopus.

Bodegas San Valero Particular Old Vine 2015 Carinena, Spain, $15.00
Bodeas San Valero is a co-op, which is starting to do some single vineyard wines. The grapes for this wine were grown at 650 meters in altitude, in limestone and chalky soils, that are very stony. These rocks hold heat at night, helping to aid in the vine’s ripening.
An intense nose of red fruit, on the palate the wine offers up spice, slight tannic grip, ripe red fruit, wild berries, with long length. 100% Garnacha; aged three months in oak.
Paired with Grilled Lamb Chops – a very traditional pairing.

Bodegas Paniza (highest village in the appellation) Vinas Viejas de Paniza Garnarcha 2016, Carinena, Spain, $12.00
Produced from 100% Garnacha, on slate soils and grey schist at a high altitude, this wine spends six months in oak. It is very fresh, with herbal aromas and flavors, dark red and black fruit, good acidity, medium tannins and long length.
Paired with Chorizo and Bechamel Croquettes.

Les Vignerons de Constance & Terrassous Hors d’Age 12 Ans, Rivesaltes Ambre, Roussillon, France, $30.00
A fortified dessert wine produced from 40-year-old, white Grenache vines, this wine has a slight oxidative note, with rich and complex flavors of apricot, caramel and spice, joined with good acidity, structure and long length.
Paired with Chocolate Mousse and Blood Orange Gelato.

Donnachiara and the Resilience of Wine

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Ilaria Petitto, CEO of Donnachiara

It is a challenge to grow grapes and make wine. Fortunately, the Campanian people are a resilient bunch. They have continually overcome volcanoes, earthquakes and economic hardship. In particular, the word resilience holds significant meaning for Ilaria Petitto, CEO of Donnachiara winery. She heard it numerous times growing up in connection with her family’s metalwork business (the resilience of steel). The term is also apt given the resilience of the local people and, more currently, she is applying it to the potential for Falanghina to become well known and well respected, as Grillo has now become in Sicily. Accordingly, her flagship Falanghina is called Resilienza.

Established in 2005 by Chiara Petitto (Ilara’s mother), Donnachiara was named for her aunt Chiara Mazzarelli Petitto, who instilled a love of the land in her and was the inspiration for starting her own winery in 2005. As the Petitto family has been in the region for more than 5 generations, cultivating vineyards and making wine, this was a natural progression for the family.

From the very beginning, Donnachiara has been focused on crafting high quality wines from local grapes, which is apropos of a winery situated in Campania on Italy’s Southwestern coast. Despite perhaps being better known for the Amalfi Coast, Neapolitan pizza and Pompeii, Campania stands out as having the most indigenous (local) grape varieties of all of Italy’s wine regions. Grapes such as Fiano, Greco and Aglianico are not only cultivated, but celebrated, taking center stage in the region’s highest denominations.

For Ilaria, it is Falanghina that she wishes to next elevate and believes that the vines grown in Benevento provide the best expression of the grape. This white variety most frequently display citrus, floral and herbal notes, along with medium body and bright acidity, And, while less structured than the more vaunted Greco and Fiano, Ilaria, in collaboration with Donnachiara’s consultant winemaker, Riccardo Cotarella, is confident that it has the potential to create wines of distinction.

Regionally, the majority of vineyards are primarily situated along the interior border of Campania, where the elevation and distance from the coastline keep the climate cool and green. Accordingly, harvest takes place from October through November while winemakers wait for the grapes to reach full ripeness. And, within this area, there are three DOCGs: Fiano d’Avellino, Greco di Tufo and Taurasi that reflect the region’s top wines. It is here that the Donnachiara winery is located, with an average vineyard elevation of 600 meters above sea level.

Although a handful of larger wineries dominate the vinous landscape, most wineries in Campania are small. This preponderance of tiny ventures makes it challenging to find common ground and promote the region as a whole, but with her recent appointment to the Consorzio, Ilaria is hoping to change that in time. As a medium-sized winery (180,000 bottles annually), Donnachiara has some leverage to make its name in the market, but Ilaria recognizes that they will all be more successful if they can promote Campania as a single brand. Thankfully, she has the resilience to persevere!

TASTING NOTES
Falanghina 2017, Beneventano Falanghina IGT, Campania, Italy
Aromas of pear and lanolin; dry, rich and concentrated, with medium acidity, full body and long length.

Fiano 2017, Fiano di Avellino DOCG, Campania, Italy
Bright, fresh, with a slight nuttiness, lovely citrus and minerality, culminating in long length.

Empatia 2017, Fiano d’Avellino DOCG, Campania, Italy
This organically produced Fiano was very aromatic and extremely floral, with fresh acidity, stone fruit, wet stone and long length.

Alatheia 2017, Greco di Tufo DOCG, Campania, Italy
This was very structural, with citrus and almond notes, medium acidity and long length.

Greco Riserva 2017, Campania, Italy
Having spent more time aging before release, this Greco was more concentrated, with yeasty aromas and fuller body. The Greco di Tufo Riserva will soon be approved as an addition to the DOCG.

Resilienza 2016, Beneventano Falanghina IGT, Campania, Italy
Showing some development on both the nose and palate, this wine displays minerality, medium acidity, richness, lanolin, white flowers and apricot, with long length.

All of the Donnachiara Taurasi wines are produced in a very elegant style, with resolved tannins and ready to be enjoyed upon release, although they certainly have the potential to age.
Taurasi 2015, Taurasi DOCG, Campania, Italy
Hailing from the excellent 2015 vintage, this wine offers up floral and black cherry aromas with soft tannins, an earthy undercurrent and long length.

Taurasi 2013, Taurasi DOCG, Campania, Italy
The 2013 vintage was a more challenging one, with lots of rain. Yet despite the less than stellar conditions, the wine is lovely with ripe red fruit, good acidity and long length.

Taurasi Riserva 2012, Taurasi Riserva DOCG, Campania, Italy
Only made in select years, the Riserva spent 24 months aging in oak. It displayed darker fruit and a more overt oak influence on both the nose and palate. The vintage was great, but warmer than usual.

Terlato’s CRU Collection: A Circle of Burgundian Friends

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Like many people in the wine industry, John Terlato, Vice Chairman of Terlato Wines, is passionate about Burgundy. When Terlato Wines initially purchased Sanford Winery and its vineyards in Santa Barbara, California in 2002, John was strongly advised to look to Burgundy for information and inspiration as they embarked on this new Chardonnay and Pinot Noir venture.

He took the advice to heart and traveled to Burgundy in search of great wine. Of course, he was not disappointed, but, equally important, he discovered great people. He returned to the U.S. not only with new knowledge that he was able to impart at Sanford, but also with a circle of new friends.

Over time, these friendships have continued to grow and blossom and it is from this collection of great people that John has now assembled a collection of world-class Burgundy wines, which he is importing under Terlato Wines’ CRU Selections division. The portfolio includes an impressive array of Who’s Who in Burgundy, but John stresses that he wants to work with friends, not all Burgundy producers.

And, such friendships have also resulted in joint projects such as the wine he recently made with Chateau de la Tour at Sanford Winery, bringing together California Pinot Noir, with Burgundian expertise. He enjoyed the project very much and admits that the experience will influence the way he does things going forward, since it is difficult to ignore what you have learned.

Among other things that John has gleaned from his Burgundian friends is the concept that vines can be classified as either introverts or extroverts and, by understanding which vines are which, one can best manage the vines to produce their highest quality. Accordingly, extroverted vines need more attention, while introverted vines should be left alone. He has since adopted this philosophy to other vines, which compliments his focus on making wines of place instead of wines of taste.

John himself is an extrovert, which comes across in his warm, generous approach to life and to people. But, he doesn’t want to interact just for the sake of interacting; in his words, “the ideal dinner party is made up of more than the [three] Graces and less than the [nine] Muses,” giving him the opportunity to have meaningful conversations with a variety of people over the course of a delicious meal and a glass of wine.

Terlato recently hosted a tasting of a subset of the Cru Selections portfolio, including: Domaine Michel Niellon, Chateau de la Tour, Domaine Pierre Label and Domaine Ramonet. It was truly an impressive tasting and an absolute treat to taste some of these very limited wines. And a welcome reminder as to why people are so passionate about Burgundy!

NB: If you would like to get to know John Terlato even better, why not join him on a cruise this December?

TASTING NOTES

Domaine Michel Niellon
This fourth-generation family affair is located in Chassagne-Montrachet and produces the full range of wines from the basic Bourgogne appellation to Grand Crus, including Chevalier-Montrachet. The vineyards are managed using sustainable agriculture.

*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Champgains” 2016
Rich, lovely, apple, woody, full bodied, long length.

*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Clos de la Maltroie” 2016
Mineral, wet stone, fresh, mineral, apple, toothpick, very long length.

*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Vergers” 2006
Developing, rich, full body, mineral, caramel, waxy, peach, long length.

Chateau de la Tour
Established in 1889 and situated in Vougeot, Chateau de la Tour is presently the largest landowner of the Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru, with a holding of 15 acres. The vines are farmed organically and the wines are aged in custom barrels. The estate’s Clos-Vougeot wines are typically produced from vineyards that average 65 years old, while those under the Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes (old vines) label are made from vines of a minimum of 100 years old.

*Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2015
Intense and concentrated fruit, cherry, herbs, earth, very long length.

*Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2007
Floral, red fruit, earthy and herbal, long length.

Domaine Pierre Labet
This domaine dates back to the 15th century with its headquarters built on the battlements surrounding the city of Beaune. The Labet family itself also has a long history in the region, having been in Beaune for 500 years. The family’s holdings include 25 acres spread throughout different appellations, with all of the vineyards farmed organically since 1992.

*Beaune “Clos du Dessus des Marconnets” 2015
Lovely nose, spice, apple, full body, medium acidity, good length.

*Meursault “Les Tillets” 2015
Mineral, green apple, toothpick, nuts, rich and round, long length.

*Beaune “Clos du Dessus des Marconnets” 2015
Ripe, rich, fresh, herbal, cherry, wood, long length.

*Gevry-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2015
Ripe berry, cherry, herbal, earthy, fruit on palate, bright acidity, woody finish, long length.

Domaine Ramonet
The Ramonet family settled in Burgundy in the 19th century and it was Pierre Ramonet, grandfather to the current owner, Jean-Claude, who established the (now vaunted) domaine in 1935. While Domaine Ramonet produces both red and white wines, it is most known for its top Chadonnays. Today, Jean-Claud is joined in the business by his daughters Anne-France and Clarisse.

*Bougogne Aligote 2016
Beautifully fresh, round, soft ripe pear/peach, pith, slight tropical, long length.

*Puligny-Montrachet 2016
Slight nuttiness, apple, wood, nuts, rich and round, slight buttery note, long length.

*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Boudriotte” 2016
Woody and apple on the nose, fresh, elegant and rich on the palate with apple, woodiness lingers in finish, long length.

*Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Ruchottes” 2014
Green apple, hint of oak, fresh acidity, full body, VERY long length.

*Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet 2001
Caramel, apple custard, good acidity, full body, caramel, butter, very long length.
Wow!

The Wines of Rioja: Something for Everyone

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Among Spain’s most vaunted wines, Rioja wines offer up “something for everyone.” And, while that phrase comes straight from the “Rioja 101” brochure I received at a recent Rioja tasting, I believe it to be much more than marketing hype. The wines are produced as white, red, or rosé, covering the full (wine) color spectrum, as well as in a range of styles.

White wines primarily feature local grape varieties such as Viura, Garnacha Blanca and Verdejo, while rosés are generally made from Garnacha or Tempranillo. The red wines may be produced from one or more of the following varieties: Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo. Aside from the differing blends, the wines vary based on length of aging and use (or lack thereof) of wood vessels.

In particular, wines that spend long aging in wood — typically American oak — qualify for specific labeling terms based on the Rioja regulations. Specifically, non-oaked/unaged wines carry no additional terminology on the label. Those wines bearing the designation “Crianza” have been aged for at least three years with one in cask. Reserva wines spend three years aging with one in wood and then an additional six months in bottle. Grand Reserva wines, usually only produced in top vintages, spend a minimum of five years aging with two of those in oak and an additional two in bottle before release. As minimums, winemakers are permitted to exceed these regulations and often do. Whites and rosés follow similar, but shorter, aging regimens within each aging category.

What this means for you, as a consumer, is that you will find a variety of Rioja options depending upon your palate and other preferences. In general, the unoaked wines will be fresher, more fruit forward and potentially more simple, but equally delicious. Conversely, the longer aged wines typically offer oaky/woody notes, often accompanied by notes of vanilla and spice, along with more robust flavor characteristics with firmer tannins and less fruit, but still remain fresh.

More recently, several new zone classifications have been created and now don labels as well. Vino de Zona permits wines that are produced exclusively in one of the three zones (Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental) to designate this on the label. Similarly, wines from a particular village or town (Vino de Municipio) may bear that name if nearly all of the grapes come from that particular area. And finally, Vinedo Singular is a new term used for wines produced from single vineyard that is at least 35 years old and must meet other quality requirements.

At the tasting mentioned above, I had the opportunity to taste among whites, rosés and reds from a variety of different producers and, not surprisingly, found numerous wines to enjoy. In addition to their food friendly versatility, Riojas are also well priced, particularly among older wines and offer good value. So, the next time you are looking for great wine, look no further than Rioja. You’re sure to find something for everyone!

[For additional information on Rioja, please see my previous stories on CVNE, Bodegas Beronia and Vintae.]

Among my favorites of the tasting were:
CVNE Monopole Rioja Blanco 2017, Rioja, Spain, $15 – rich, full-bodied and complex with long length.

Muriel Fincas de la Villa Blanco 2017, Rioja, Spain, $15 – fresh, with citrus and pear notes.

Faustino VII Rioja Rosado 2018, Rioja, Spain, $11 – slight floral nose with notes of under-ripe strawberries.

Palacios Remondo La Vendimia Rioja 2016, Rioja, Spain, $16 – beautiful nose, with balanced, ripe fruit and long length.

Bodegas Taron Taron Reserva 2006, Rioja, Spain, $18 – well integrated tannins, herbal and floral notes, with rich concentrated fruit and a slight balsamic character.

Bodegas Olarra, Cerro Anon Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja, Spain, $17 – tart, berries, spice and wood, concentrated, long length.

Bodegas Campillo Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja, Spain, $35 – Produced by the daughter of Faustino, fresh with lots of herbaceous notes, long length.

Faustino Barrel Select Gran Reserva 2001, Rioja, Spain, $50 – beautifully complex nose, spice, fruit, herbs, stunning, long length.

Colome’s winemaker is living the impossible dream

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Born, raised and educated in Burgundy, Thibaut Delmotte launched his wine career doing three harvests each in Burgundy and Bordeaux before taking a year off to travel throughout South America. He booked an open ticket, headed to Buenos Aires and visited Argentina, Chile and Brazil, eventually finding himself somewhat settled in Salta teaching French at the local Alliance Française.

When a new acquaintance discovered his background as a winemaker she told him about a high elevation vineyard north of the city. He didn’t believe it was possible to grow vines at such an altitude but was intrigued enough to secure an appointment with the man behind the project: Donald Hess.

Thibaut and Donald arranged to meet at the property at 9:00 AM, which required Thibault to depart Salta at 5:00 AM. By 6:00 AM, the pavement gave way to gravel as he snaked his way up the mountain. By 9:00 AM, there was no sign of life and he was beginning to think that he had been punked. Soon he came to a small village and was assured that he was close to his destination. Another 40 minutes of driving brought him face to face with the tall, Swiss gentleman who promptly laughed at seeing the small, compact rental car in which Thibault had made the journey.

Still disbelieving, Thibaut permitted Donald to give him a tour of the mountainous property, which was barren desert – more suited to cacti than Cabernet. Then, he saw the eight hectares of pre-phylloxera vines and was duly impressed.

Hess spoke about his grand plans for multiple vineyards and a large capacity winery. Thibaut was excited about the opportunity, but readily admitted to his lack of experience to take on such a project. Undeterred, Donald continued with the tour and invited Thibaut to lunch that afternoon. But, before the meal, he was to take part in a blind tasting during which he was asked to taste and rank 10 wines in order of his preference. It was the ultimate job interview! When Thibaut’s least favorite wine was revealed to be the Colome Malbec Reserva he was certain he had blown his chance, but Donald appreciated his feedback as to why the French-born and bred winemaker didn’t find the overt/powerful wine to his liking. Hess offered him the job on the condition that he commit to the post for at least three years. That was fifteen years ago.

In the early years, the emphasis was on building the new winery, developing the vineyards and, equally important, investing in the local village to upgrade its infrastructure, increase its access to education and solve social ills such as alcoholism and teen pregnancy. It was also necessary to create own electricity

Despite its initial rusticity, the Colome property itself dates to 1831, when it was established by the Isasmendi-Dávalos family. It remained in the Dávalos family until 2001, when Hess was finally able to purchase the property. Hess himself was first acquainted with Colome and its potential while visiting his great aunt in Buenos Aires several years prior and had the opportunity to taste an old bottle of its wine.

In addition to the state-of-the-art winery, Colome’s estate is home to the James Turrell Museum. Turrell is a California-based, light and space artist, whose experiential installations defy explanation. To get a better sense of his art, please see: http://www.bodegacolome.com/museo/?lang=en  The winery attracts 8,000 visitors each year who usually spend half a day tasting wine and visiting the museum. A nine-room hotel is also available on the estate for those who wish to stay over.

More recently, the focus has been on two special projects: Autentico and Altura Maxima (maximum height). The Autentico project relies on doing things the “old way.” In this regard, the best blocks of 100 year+ vines are still trained using the pergola system, watered with flood (instead of drip) irrigation, treated without chemicals and generally approached with a low intervention philosophy. This approach continues in the winery, where the use of oak is eschewed in favor of showing the true (authentic) wine in the glass, uncovered by wood aromas and flavors.

At a height of 3,111 meters (10,200 feet) in altitude, Altura Maxima is the highest vineyard in the world (although a recently planted plot in Tibet threatens to take this title away). It was initially planted in 2007 to Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as Malbec. Given the elevation, the vines receive more ultraviolet light, forcing them to develop thicker skins on the grapes. This ultimately produces wines with more structure and concentration, while the 25 degree diurnal difference ensures that the wines retain high levels of acidity and elegance. All of this comes at a price; the very extreme conditions mean that wasps, donkeys and frost are all threats to the fruit. Thus, the vineyard only yields a small production of grapes (4 kilos per hectare compared to 7 kilos per hectare).

TASTING NOTES
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is IMG_20181118_191526_076-1024x1024.jpgColome Autentico 2017, Salta, Argentina, $on-premise only
This 100% Malbec is deep purple in color with intense aromas of wood, plum, black fruit. The dry palate displays very ripe blackberry and blueberry joined by floral and spice, with firm, ripe tannins, full body and medium+ length. It is released young, but can age five to seven years.

Colome Altura Maxima 2014, Salta, Argentina, $125.00
Also 100% Malbec, this wine spends 23 months in old oak and one year in bottle before release. It is a very floral Malbec with fine grained tannins.