Category Archives: Travel

Where in the world is Washington wine?

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While many people are familiar with California wine, Washington wine might be a new discovery. Moreover, for those that do know that Washington State makes wine, they are likely thinking of damp, rainy Seattle. But, that’s not the real story. Rather, the majority of Washington grapes are grown east of the Cascade Mountains. What that means is that the cold, wet weather we associate with Seattle stays on the West Coast while the state’s interior provides desert-like conditions. In many cases, grape growing is made possible here due to irrigation. There is also a blend of wide, open land, mountains and hence, altitude, all of which impact the climate and growing conditions of these grapes.

Thanks to this climate, this is Cabernet and Syrah country, not Pinot Noir territory, which is a grape more appropriately correlated with Oregon. Consequently, while only three hours away from Seattle, Washington wine is truly a world away from one’s initial conception. Yet, as I recently discovered, there are many opportunities to become acquainted with these wines without having to travel too far.

Moreover, this is an exciting time for the state and its wines as it stands on a precipice for even further greatness. These are well made, balanced wines, representing good value, diversity and innovation. As I spent three days immersed in Washington wine, I grew more and more bullish about what is to come and treasured the interactions with the passionate people who are behind these amazing wines.

The Washington wine industry is definitely one to watch and I strongly recommend seeking these wines out if and when you have the opportunity. Admittedly, many of these wines never make it beyond the confines of the state, but if you find them at a retailer or restaurant near you, I highly encourage you to check them out.

Further, you can create an exciting, wine-oriented weekend (or longer) with visits to Woodinville or even Seattle, without the lengthier drive to the Columbia Valley and beyond.

Where to weekend:  The Wonders of Woodinville

Situated 25 miles northeast of Seattle, Woodinville, WA was initially home to a logging industry which was then replaced by agriculture. Yet, today, none of that remains and, instead, the area has been thoroughly converted into the epicenter of Washington wine.

With its tagline, “Where Washington pours,” Woodinville is home to 120 wine tasting rooms representing 19 of 20 AVAs (American Viticultural Areas), 10 breweries and five distilleries. Sixty of those wineries actually produce wine in the Woodinville area while the remainder have their winemaking facilities elsewhere.

What makes Woodinville particularly unique is that it makes the wineries accessible to tourists who might be visiting Seattle for a short period of time such as on a business trip or before or after a cruise. This is a perfect foray into Washington wine with a plethora of tasting rooms and restaurants from which to choose.  There is an incredible focus on hospitality and each tasting room has its own unique approach to serving guests, but all are excited to welcome you to taste their wines and enjoy the experience.

Woodinville got its start as a wine-centric town in 1976, when Chateau Ste Michelle established it’s beautiful French-style chateau winery building, vineyards and winemaking facilities there. It took some time for the area to catch on, but it is now in the midst of significant growth and expansion, yielding even more opportunities for people to learn about Washington wine and other state-centric products.

Within the town borders there are four main districts, each with its own personality and focus. Established about 15 years ago, the Warehouse District has become an incubator for up-and-coming producers and small batch productions. This is often a place for hobbyists to get their start. In contrast, the West Valley District has become more industrial and is home to the majority of distilleries and breweries.

Named for an old schoolhouse, which presently serves as the tasting room for Maryhill Winery, the Hollywood Hills District caters to tourism and will soon be home to a 22-acre project in development which will include a 128-room hotel called Somm, under Marriott’s Autograph Collection. The property will also include event space, dining facilities and a custom blending operation. This accommodation will join the existing boutique Willows Lodge, with its Barking Frog restaurant and luxury spa.

Hollywood Hills is also home to Patterson Cellars*, Gorman Winery*, Sparkman Cellars* and DeLillle Winery*, the latter of which launched a full-service, wine-centric restaurant, The Lounge, in 2021.

Most notably, the Downtown District has seen incredible investment in retail and residential real estate. In particular, the area has seen the building of 1,599 new housing units, including high-end apartments and single-family residences, which appeal to both retirees and young, tech folks. With close proximity to Redmond, Bellevue, Tacoma and Seattle (and thus the headquarters for Microsoft, Space X, Amazon, Costco and more), as well as skiing and other activities, there are many people interested in moving in. There are number of new tasting rooms here, too, such as the brand-new outpost for Rocky Pond Estate Winery.*

The job of shepherding and spearheading promotion of the area falls to Woodinville
Wine Country and during my visit, I had the wonderful opportunity to meet Adam Acampora, who joined the organization earlier this year as Executive Director. His background is both on target and unusual coming from Tennessee where he ran the state wine program there, not a place most frequently associated with wine. But he is well versed in wine, marketing and hospitality and is well poised to lead the renaissance well underway.

As new restaurants (such as the newly opened Walla Walla Steak Co.*), wineries (L’Ecole 41* coming soon) and hotels continue to make the move to Woodinville, the town will become an even bigger draw for residents and tourists alike. This is truly a wonderful, weekend getaway to immerse yourself in Washington wine.

Where to weekend: Seattle Sips

If you are more pressed for time or simply don’t want to leave the confines of Seattle proper, you still have tasting options. First and foremost, most Seattle-area restaurants feature Washington wines on their menus, both by the glass and bottle. In particular, check out Purple Café, with locations in both downtown Seattle and Woodinville.

The historic Pioneer Square area counts itself as Seattle’s first neighborhood, incorporated in 1869. The area is currently home to two tasting rooms: Four Eleven Wine and Browne Family Vineyards.

The Four Eleven Wine lounge is collaboration between Bledsoe Family Winery* and Gramercy Cellars*, both of the Walla Walla Valley, who looked to find a shared tasting room on the West side of Washington State. The result is Four Eleven Wine.   Open daily, the space offers a traditional tasting room experience until 5:00pm and wine seminars on Tuesday evenings, along with a wine bar and full retail selection of local and international wine selections.

Two doors down, situated in the 1906 Sellar Building, designed by architect A. Warren Gould, Brown Family Vineyards* opened their Seattle tasting room in 2017. The winery was inspired and named for William Bitner Browne, the late grandfather of proprietor Andrew Browne. The tasting room offers various tasting flights and is also available for private parties and events.

Just steps from Pike Place Market, The Tasting Room offers a selection of wines from winemaker owned wineries in the state. On any given day, over 60 different wines are available to taste in flights (four one-ounce pours) or by the glass. Open daily, with live music on Friday nights.

And, if you didn’t get enough wine while in Woodinville or in town, there’s always a final hurrah at the airport. Located in the Central Terminal and open daily 12pm – 9pm, Vyne Washington Tasting Room exclusively serves Washington state wines and was awarded “Best New Food and Beverage” full-service concept by the Airports Council International – North America.

Where in the world is Washington wine? It’s at the top of its game and hopefully in your glass. Now you just have to start planning your weekends away!

*NB: More to come in a future story or stories on these wineries and restaurants.

Oh the Places You’ll Go…in a Glass

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My passport expires at the end of this year, but this has definitely not been a year where it is getting much use. In fact, it’s been a full year since my last international trip, with no plans on the horizon. I know that this is temporary, but travel has always been an important part of my life, so it feels strange to be so rooted in one place without the pleasure of exploring new (to me) and exciting places.

Interestingly, I remember a friend telling me once that the number of Americans that hold valid passports is relatively small compared to the overall population. Now, we are all stuck at home, unable to experience the culture and cuisines of the world firsthand.

However, while we are all on lockdown, we can choose to travel from the safety of our dining rooms. We can open up a bottle of wine from nearly anywhere in the world and travel in an instant — no passport or security check needed. You can leave your shoes on, although perhaps you haven’t put on shoes in weeks?

In addition to traveling to other locales, we can also travel in time and space. This past week marked my husband’s 49th birthday, which we celebrated at home in style, setting up a bistro table in the living room, instead of eating at the dining table, which is now shared with the impossi-puzzle (a 2,000 piece jigsaw puzzle of Van Gogh’s A Starry Night). We had a delicious gourmet pantry-raid meal with souvenirs from various trips to Italy (truffle cream, tomato jam, true Balsamic vinegar and other finds), served with vintage Champagne (2008) and a wine from his birth year (1971). It was magical to be transported from the present to the past in a single sip, thinking about what had occurred during those growing seasons.

In addition, I had the wonderful opportunity to taste through a selection of Spanish wines recently, ready for spring. I had been overly optimistic about preparing Spanish cuisine to accompany them and further expand my non-travel horizons, but, no matter, the wines were still enjoyable without a perfect pairing. The Rosado (aka rose) was a great option for a Zoom happy hour, the Godello went well with stir-fry and the Monopole was the perfect picnic partner on a rare visit to the park.

Virgen del Galir Pagos del Galir Godello 2018, Valdeorras, Spain, $21.00
Notes of smoke and spice greet the nose, giving way to melon and minerality on the palate, along with a slight oxidative/yeasty note, likely due to the 4 months aging on the lees, culminating in long length.

Vina Real Rosado 2019, Rioja, Spain, $14.00
A blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo and Viura, this wine is very lovely, redolent of tart, strawberries and watermelon, with lively acidity and freshness on the palate. Long length.

CVNE Monopole 2019, Rioja, Spain, $15.00
This 100% Viura white wine was first produced by CVNE in 1915 and is full-bodied with floral and apple aromas and flavors, along with good length.

For more information on CVNE and Vina Real, please see my previous story.


Never Say Never at Domaine Bousquet

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Growing up in a winegrowing family near Carcassonne, Anne Bousquet wanted nothing to do with the industry. It didn’t appeal to her in the least and she was determined to get an education, open up her options and pursue financial independence among other lifelong goals. No one told her resistance is futile.

In pursuit of her dreams, Anne attended college in Toulouse to study economics. During her studies, she moved to Minnesota as an exchange student in order to improve her English (and also ended up meeting her future husband – an exchange student from Spain). As a result of this experience, she was offered the opportunity to earn a master’s degree in economics, becoming an economist and eventually moving to Boston where she analyzed the wood and paper industries. Anne was very happy with her life and was doing well in her career.

During this time, her father had launched Domaine Bousquet. While most people go on vacation and bring home a crappy t-shirt 😊, Anne Bousquet’s father ended his Argentine vacation with the purchase of land. His dream was to plant one of the first vineyards in the Tupungato area. He planted his vines between 1998-2000 and produced his first wine in 2003.

With wine ready to sell, Anne’s father turned to her for assistance. Anne’s husband jumped at the chance, and, while Anne agreed, she kept her economics job to pay the bills. The two moved to Europe in the mid-2000s, introducing the European market to their organic Argentine wines. Anne and her husband attended their first ProWein in 2005 and, by 2008, Domaine Bousquet was selling 1 million bottles annually, entering the U.S. market around this time. In 2009, Anne resigned from economics altogether to devote herself full-time to the winery, moving from Europe to Tupungato. Two years later, Anne’s father retired, placing her directly in charge of production and finance, while her husband is responsible for sales.

In 2015, Anne and her family moved yet again, this time to Miami, when they decided to start their own import company. The winery presently exports 98% of its production, thanks to strong demand outside of the country, selling 4.5 million bottles annually worldwide.

From the very beginning, Domaine Bousquet has been keenly focused on organic farming, receiving its organic certification in 2005. This approach has been very important to them and has been a point of differentiation in the market. Not surprisingly, Domaine Bousquet has always been a leader in organic production in Argentina. As a Certified Organic winery, Domaine Bousquet takes this commitment very seriously. While some vineyards may ascribe to organics during favorable years and use chemicals during tough times, they are not permitted to make such adjustments if they wish to keep their organic certification.

Thankfully, the climate and terrain of Argentina and the Mendoza region (more specifically) lend themselves well to growing grapes organically. As the driest wine region in the world, Argentina’s vineyards are generally free from mold and mildew issues that require extensive spraying and intervention elsewhere. Additionally, the high altitude of Argentina’s winegrowing regions maintains acidity and crispness in the grapes and thus the resulting wines.

More recently, under Anne’s direction, Domaine Bouquet wanted to get to the next level of organic certification, especially in the U.S. Although all their wines have always had lower sulfite levels than conventional wines, they have chosen to achieve USDA Organic certification for their new Virgen wines by excluding the addition of any sulfites at all. These wines are also Certified Sustainable, Gluten-Free and Vegan Friendly (they use bentonite to fine their wines rather than egg- or fish-derived fining agents).

The first Virgen wine was a red blend (bringing together Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec), made in 2018. It sold out in three months, prompting them to increase production with the next vintage, adding a Malbec and a Cabernet Sauvignon to the lineup in addition to the original red blend.

In speaking about these new wines, Anne acknowledges that the biggest risk to the Virgen line  is temperature fluctuation during travel and stocking issues with exposure to heat. “It’s pure; it’s a naked baby.” Yet, when tasting the wine two years later, they have found it still to be fresh and clean, despite its lack of added sulfites, which generally act as a preservative and anti-oxidant.

Moreover, they want to boost production of their sparkling wines (which they produce using both the Charmat and Traditional Methods) since they can give consumers Certified Organic sparkling wines – something they can’t really get from Champagne and many other regions. And, they can scale their production to meet perceived demand, due to their 700 acres and supplemental growing contracts.

The winery’s Gaia line, named for a goddess from Greek mythology, is now available only on-premise (at restaurants / not for retail sale). Initially developed with a red blend and a white blend, it also now includes a varietal Cabernet France (a first for them) and a Malbec. Anne notes that Cabernet Franc has been gaining in popularity in the region, prompting them to craft this wine.

Finally, Anne presented us with Ameri, Domaine Bousquet’s top icon wine. As she explained, all of the wines have Anne’s name on it, so they decided to create one wine with her husband’s name – his last name is Alimeri!

All in all, despite her initial resistance, Anne has made a good life for herself and her family in the industry she swore she’d never work. And, the wines that she produces are not only well made, they are quite economic to buy. As for whether Anne’s pre-teen daughter will try to eschew the family business as her mother did, for now, she wants to be an actress or a chef. We’ll have to wait to see if her resistance is futile!

TASTING NOTES
Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose Brut NV, Tupungato, Argentina, $13.00
Produced via the Charmat Method, this blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay has a beautiful, medium salmon color and a nice mousse. The dry palate offers up refreshing acidity, ripe berries and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Chardonnay 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $18.00
Aromas of nuts, apples and pear greet the nose and persist on the tongue. On the palate, the wine is dry with good acidity and a rich, round, full body, culminating in long length.

Domaine Bousquet Virgen USDA-certified organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Tupungato, Argentina, 13.00
This is a beautifully light Cabernet Sauvignon, with medium body and light tannins. It is fresh and clean, with black fruit, a slightly leafy note and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Virgen USDA-certified organic Malbec 2019, Tupungato, Argentina, $13.00
Much more intense than its sister Cab, the Malbec is concentrated with juicy, ripe fruit of plum and blackberries with light to medium tannins, medium body and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Cabernet Franc 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $20.00
A lovely wine with good complexity of aromas and flavors including cranberry, blueberry and dried herbs. The palate provides a beautiful texture. culminating in long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Malbec 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $20.00
This wine is fresh with lush, dark red and black fruit, along with peppery, spicy notes and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Ameri 2017, Tupungato, Argentina, $36.00
Bringing together Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot and then aged in French oak for 16 months, this wine displays strength and elegance, with medium tannins, red and black fruit and long length.

My Heart Belongs to Sicily and its Wines

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Sicily will always have a cherished place in my heart. I visited the Italian region in 2013 and spent a week crisscrossing the island, learning its history and immersing myself in its wine culture. At the end of my visit, I found myself at Palermo Airport crying…and I wasn’t even heading home; I still had another two weeks in Italy before I returned to the U.S.!

Something about the magical week struck me hard and stuck with me. A Siren song, perhaps? In truth, Sicily is more associated with other mythical creatures than the sirens, but regardless, I was thankfully lulled to its vinous pleasures not to my untimely death.

Since that visit, I have been thrilled to watch Sicily’s dedication to improving excellence in its wine production. Under the leadership of Antonio Rallo president of Wines of Sicilia DOC (and agronomist and winemaker for his family’s Donnafugata winery), the region has seen the creation of the Sicilia DOC category, increasing the quality level and prominence of Sicilian wines.

Accordingly, well-established wineries have risen to the challenge, elevating their wines with an eye toward innovation, yet maintaining tradition. In this regard, they remain true to their culture and heritage with an emphasis on local varieties such as Grillo, Nero d’Avola and Frappato, grapes which have been cultivated in the area for centuries.

More specifically, the modern winery at Stemmari was built to reflect the rural architectural structure known as the baglio. Similarly, Baglio di Pianetto has embraced environmental sustainability and adopted organic farming practices while the ancient feudal domain of Feudo Principi di Butera once belonged to Sicily’s first prince (Ambrogio Branciforte), but has been restored by the well-known Zonin family. And all three producers respect and understand the various terroirs of the island region.

TASTING NOTES
Baglio di Pianetto Timeo Grillo 2018, Sicilia DOC, Italy, $13.00
Lovely notes of musk, minerality and wax greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is dry, with fresh acidity and medium body. It is more structured and less fruit focused, showing notes of pear and citrus, with elegance and long length.

Stemmari Cantodoro Rosso Riserva 2014, Sicilia DOC, Italy, $14.00
A blend of 80% Nero dA’Avola and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this rich and concentrated red wine features aromas of plums and earth. The dry palate offers up medium+ acidity, medium+ body, light tannins, and shows some development, with long length.

Feudo Principi di Butera Deliella Nero d’Avola 2014, Sicila DOC, Italy, $90.00
This wine is among the three esteemed cru level wines produced by Feudo Principi di Butera. It is a 100% Nero d’Avola from a single vineyard Deliella, named for the local district. The full-bodied wine is elegant with bright acidity, beautiful red fruit aromas and flavors, slight herbal characteristics on the nose and palate, which linger in the very long length.

Colome’s winemaker is living the impossible dream

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Born, raised and educated in Burgundy, Thibaut Delmotte launched his wine career doing three harvests each in Burgundy and Bordeaux before taking a year off to travel throughout South America. He booked an open ticket, headed to Buenos Aires and visited Argentina, Chile and Brazil, eventually finding himself somewhat settled in Salta teaching French at the local Alliance Française.

When a new acquaintance discovered his background as a winemaker she told him about a high elevation vineyard north of the city. He didn’t believe it was possible to grow vines at such an altitude but was intrigued enough to secure an appointment with the man behind the project: Donald Hess.

Thibaut and Donald arranged to meet at the property at 9:00 AM, which required Thibault to depart Salta at 5:00 AM. By 6:00 AM, the pavement gave way to gravel as he snaked his way up the mountain. By 9:00 AM, there was no sign of life and he was beginning to think that he had been punked. Soon he came to a small village and was assured that he was close to his destination. Another 40 minutes of driving brought him face to face with the tall, Swiss gentleman who promptly laughed at seeing the small, compact rental car in which Thibault had made the journey.

Still disbelieving, Thibaut permitted Donald to give him a tour of the mountainous property, which was barren desert – more suited to cacti than Cabernet. Then, he saw the eight hectares of pre-phylloxera vines and was duly impressed.

Hess spoke about his grand plans for multiple vineyards and a large capacity winery. Thibaut was excited about the opportunity, but readily admitted to his lack of experience to take on such a project. Undeterred, Donald continued with the tour and invited Thibaut to lunch that afternoon. But, before the meal, he was to take part in a blind tasting during which he was asked to taste and rank 10 wines in order of his preference. It was the ultimate job interview! When Thibaut’s least favorite wine was revealed to be the Colome Malbec Reserva he was certain he had blown his chance, but Donald appreciated his feedback as to why the French-born and bred winemaker didn’t find the overt/powerful wine to his liking. Hess offered him the job on the condition that he commit to the post for at least three years. That was fifteen years ago.

In the early years, the emphasis was on building the new winery, developing the vineyards and, equally important, investing in the local village to upgrade its infrastructure, increase its access to education and solve social ills such as alcoholism and teen pregnancy. It was also necessary to create own electricity

Despite its initial rusticity, the Colome property itself dates to 1831, when it was established by the Isasmendi-Dávalos family. It remained in the Dávalos family until 2001, when Hess was finally able to purchase the property. Hess himself was first acquainted with Colome and its potential while visiting his great aunt in Buenos Aires several years prior and had the opportunity to taste an old bottle of its wine.

In addition to the state-of-the-art winery, Colome’s estate is home to the James Turrell Museum. Turrell is a California-based, light and space artist, whose experiential installations defy explanation. To get a better sense of his art, please see: http://www.bodegacolome.com/museo/?lang=en  The winery attracts 8,000 visitors each year who usually spend half a day tasting wine and visiting the museum. A nine-room hotel is also available on the estate for those who wish to stay over.

More recently, the focus has been on two special projects: Autentico and Altura Maxima (maximum height). The Autentico project relies on doing things the “old way.” In this regard, the best blocks of 100 year+ vines are still trained using the pergola system, watered with flood (instead of drip) irrigation, treated without chemicals and generally approached with a low intervention philosophy. This approach continues in the winery, where the use of oak is eschewed in favor of showing the true (authentic) wine in the glass, uncovered by wood aromas and flavors.

At a height of 3,111 meters (10,200 feet) in altitude, Altura Maxima is the highest vineyard in the world (although a recently planted plot in Tibet threatens to take this title away). It was initially planted in 2007 to Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as Malbec. Given the elevation, the vines receive more ultraviolet light, forcing them to develop thicker skins on the grapes. This ultimately produces wines with more structure and concentration, while the 25 degree diurnal difference ensures that the wines retain high levels of acidity and elegance. All of this comes at a price; the very extreme conditions mean that wasps, donkeys and frost are all threats to the fruit. Thus, the vineyard only yields a small production of grapes (4 kilos per hectare compared to 7 kilos per hectare).

TASTING NOTES
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is IMG_20181118_191526_076-1024x1024.jpgColome Autentico 2017, Salta, Argentina, $on-premise only
This 100% Malbec is deep purple in color with intense aromas of wood, plum, black fruit. The dry palate displays very ripe blackberry and blueberry joined by floral and spice, with firm, ripe tannins, full body and medium+ length. It is released young, but can age five to seven years.

Colome Altura Maxima 2014, Salta, Argentina, $125.00
Also 100% Malbec, this wine spends 23 months in old oak and one year in bottle before release. It is a very floral Malbec with fine grained tannins.

All I Want for Christmas: Papapietro Perry Pinot

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Regardless of which winter holidays you do or don’t celebrate, who doesn’t want to be on the receiving end of presents? So, with that in mind, I am starting a list just in case anyone wants to know what to get me. First up, Pinot Noir from Papapietro Perry!

I first became acquainted with Papapietro Perry Winery back in 2008 when I compiled a lengthy list of Sonoma County producers to potentially visit for our upcoming trip. We would be in Sonoma for an extended weekend (Thursday through Tuesday), first to attend the very first Wine Bloggers’ Conference and then to enjoy a few days tasting and touring throughout the county.

We had arranged to meet our San Francisco-based friends, Peter and Nicole, for the day and set off in pursuit of Pinot. With our focus on Healdsburg, that day included visits to Ridge, Seghesio and Papapietro Perry. Well-known and respected for their Pinot and Zinfandel, Papapietro Perry had ended up on the list thanks to the favorable reviews they garnered in Wine Spectator magazine (and continue to receive in that and in other publications).

The winemakers behind the label are Bruce Perry and Ben Papapietro. With their mutual love of food and wine, the two friends began making wine together in a shared pursuit of Pinot Noir. Starting in Ben’s San Francisco garage back in 1980s, their homemade attempts turned out to be quite good, eventually permitting them to quit their “day jobs” to pursue wine full-time. And, keeping it all in the family, they are joined by their wives, Renae Perry (who is responsible for winery operations) and Yolanda Papapietro (who handles distribution).

During our 2008 visit, I was very impressed with the wines, tasting two Pinots (Charles Vineyard ~ Anderson Valley and Leras Family Vineyards ~ Russian River Valley) and two Zins (both from the Russian River Valley). So, it was a pleasure to reacquaint myself with Papapietro Perry wine again more recently. Trust me, if someone gifts you their wines, you will not be unhappy!

TASTING NOTE
Papapietro Perry Pinot Noir Nunes Vineyard 2016 Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $60.00
This 100% Pinot Noir wine spent 11 months in French oak, 50% of which was new and 50% of which was 1 and 2 years old. Pale garnet with a paler rim, typical of Pinot Noir, this wine offered up spice, earth and cherry aromas. It was dry, with bright acidity, fresh cherries and raspberries, spice, a slight woody note, and an undercurrent of earthiness on the medium-bodied palate, culminating in very long length. A truly beautiful wine.

 

You Can Go Home Again: A Visit to Macari Vineyards

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They say you can’t go home again, but our visits to the North Fork of Long Island, post-real estate sale, continue to make us feel welcome.  And nowhere was that more apparent than at our former next door neighbor, Macari Vineyards.

Living next door to a winery is great! As I liked to joke when we visited the tasting room with house guests – it was stagger distance. But, all kidding aside, they truly were great neighbors. From the very beginning, the Macari’s were helpful, kind, warm and generous. While most people consider borrowing a cup of sugar from their neighbors in a pinch, we borrowed their winemaking expertise in the form of a chemical analysis of the wine that my husband made with two friends from Macari fruit. Plus, they produce amazing wine, currently under the direction of winemaker Kelly Urbanik Koch.

So, when my husband’s employer decided to do an event on the North Fork, we knew that Macari would figure prominently on the agenda. Upon arrival, the assembled guests (a group of employees, management and advisory board members) were provided with a tour of the winery, followed by a guided tasting with Alexandra Macari in their beautiful, Private Barrel Cellar. Afterward, we enjoyed dinner on the deck, accompanied by an assortment of Macari wines.

All in all, it was a wonderful visit and we definitely felt at home!

TASTING NOTES

Macari Sparkling Pinot Noir Gabriella 2012, $35.00
Named in honor of Alexandra and Joe’s daughter – and an integral part of the Macari team – Gabriela, this effervescent wine offered up aromas of cotton candy, cherries and yeastiness. On the palate, it is dry with medium+ acidity, ripe berries, cream and melon.


Macari Sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon “Horses” (2015 or 2016), $N/A
Unfiltered and cloudy wine due to the minimal intervention used to produce this non-disgorged sparkler, it is named for a vineyard area called horse head bluff because well, it looks like a horse’s head. Pale salmon in color, the wine is slightly off-dry, with slight cherry fruit, strawberry cream and toasted marshmallow on the cleansing palate. It is currently sold out; make sure to catch it next time around.

Macari Sauvignon Blanc “Katherine’s Field” 2016, $24.00
Fermented in 100% stainless steel, this wine displays notes of slight smoke, citrus, and tropical fruit, which persisted on the clean, fresh palate, with a slight spritz and long length.

Macari Sauvignon Blanc Lifeforce (2016), $28.00
In contrast to the Katherine’s Field Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is fermented in concrete egg-shaped tanks yielding an edgier, more structural wine with angularity, heaviness and a fuller body, along with intense acidity (whereas the other SB is softer and rounder).

Macari Chardonnay Reserve 2014, $27.00
This full-bodied white was barrel fermented in two- and three-year old French oak, resulting in aromas and flavors of toothpick, apple and spice, along with medium+ acidity.

Macari Bergen Road 2013, $50.00
This Bordeaux-style wine leads with 51% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Aromas of black cherry, oak, balsamic vinegar, give way to flavors of herbs, earth, oak and spice on the dry, full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.

Macari Alexandra 2010, $85.00
A flagship red blend made only in top vintages, it is primarily produced with Merlot. Compared to the Bergen Road, it presents with darker fruit, smoke, vanilla as well as beautiful dried fruit, dried herbs and resolved tannins on the full-bodied, lush, palate. Only 200 cases were made.

Desperately Seeking…a Suitcase

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Some might say I have a long history with suitcases. Yes, of course, for travel, but I was also once voted, “Most likely to lock herself in a suitcase.” Admittedly, it was a joke, but I had fallen asleep in my suitcase only the week before (see photo), so the superlative was a bit apt.

But seriously, I still remember my earliest suitcase – a big, light blue American Tourister (yes, the one I took a nap in), that made its way to Saint Croix, Florida, Hawaii and Israel. Later on, I was gifted with a matching duffle and suiter, which served me well for many years.

But, as a newly-wed adult, it was time for larger, more sturdy cases, so we christened our marriage with a set purchased at Macy’s, opting to buy three different sizes of the same bag: large, medium and small. This was in the days before airlines charged for luggage (yes, I am that old!). We eventually ran them ragged and decided to up our luggage game, falling in love with Tumi, which we purchased at their outlet. Our twin, T-Tech carry-ons took us all around the world, journeying to Mexico, Morocco, South Africa, New Zealand and many more destinations. However, on a trip to Italy, I found a new love and vowed that my next suitcase would be a Rimowa, planning to splurge on the luxury case when the time came.

The time came last fall, when hubby and I decided that we needed to replace our dearly beloved, yet tired, Tumis. Recalling my desire to invest in Rimowa, I looked up the options, but wasn’t so sure this was the way to go after all. And, damn, they were expensive if you wanted all the bells and whistles!

Around the same time, I had started to see the ads for Away on the subway and was intrigued by these streamlined cases, which offered up integrated TSA-approved locks, charging stations for powering your phone on the fly and were well priced. We headed to the NYC store to check them out and were duly impressed. Hubby pulled the trigger a few weeks later, ready to take his on an upcoming business trip.

Not quite convinced, I questioned if the Away format was indeed the way to go as I watched my husband pack his new case and pondered my choices. I soon realized that the clam-shell format was actually a deal-breaker. The idea of having to figure out, which things to pack in which half of the case seemed troublesome at best. So, I set about finding the few cases that still offered a traditional format. And, while the original brief had been focused on finding a four-wheeled, hard-side option, it was clear that I would have to rethink this as very few hard-side suitcases were available in my preferred, single-compartment format.

So, I went back to the drawing board and resorted to doing what I always do – research. Lots (and lots) of research! Overall, my guiding principles was in finding the best suitcase for the best price. And, by best, I meant: a traditional format with 4 spinner wheels, outside pockets, the ability to expand and an affordable price.

Part of my research included searches and sorts on Macy’s and ebags, helping me to narrow down my options. Next, I read reviews on these retail sites and on numerous forums. But, I felt that I needed to see the top contenders in person to get a better feel for them. I initially headed to Innovation Luggage to view the Delsey (Helium Shadow 4.0 21″ Hardside Spinner Suitcase) I was eyeing, only to discover two things: 1) Innovation Luggage no longer carries Delsey products and 2) Briggs and Riley!

I added Briggs & Riley to the list, did my due diligence and then made the trek to Macy’s to compare it to the Delsey side by side. I probably opened and closed both cases a dozen times before leaving the store empty-handed, but time was running out. Our early January trip to Florida would provide a good maiden voyage for my new suitcase in advance of our lengthier Australian holiday in February. Thus, mid-December became my deadline for finding the perfect travel companion.

After reading still more reviews and spending way too much time agonizing over a few inches and pounds, comparing and contrasting features and simply stalling, I finally purchased the Briggs & Riley Baseline CX International Carry-On Expandable Wide-body Spinner on ebags (benefiting from ebates rewards as well as ebags’ own rewards program).

When the Briggs and Riley bag arrived, I was excited, but, despite my pleasure with the purchase, I wasn’t certain that it was worth the hefty price tag given that I travel several times a year, not several times a month.

Consequently, I sent it back (thanks, Shop Runner), and, instead, selected the TravelPro Platinum Magna 2 Expandable Spinner Luggage, which ranked very highly in various reviews and was very well priced. But, I still wasn’t 100% satisfied when I received it. It seemed much smaller in person despite its stated measurements being very similar to the Briggs & Riley (see chart below). So, back it went, too.

Fortunately, the third time was a charm with the purchase of the Briggs and Riley Transcend VX Wide 21″ Carry-On Expandable Spinner. It is less flashy than the Baseline, but with nearly all of the same features and considerably less expensive. And, most importantly, it has proven to be the best suitcase for me.

In the past year, my new suitcase has seen me successfully through trips to Florida, Australia, Italy and Spain, plus the occasional weekend visit to see friends. I can easily pack all of my clothes, shoes, toiletries and anything else I need the way that I am used to packing. Plus, because the handle is affixed to the exterior of the bag, you have a nice, flat surface on which to pack. Additionally, its ability to expand a full two inches has been fantastic, permitting me to guiltlessly shop on vacation knowing that my suitcase will easily accommodate my souvenirs. Admittedly, the Transcend’s expansion mechanism is less elegant than the one in the Baseline, but it still accomplishes the same task and this difference was worth overlooking for the savings.

I also love having an exterior pocket in the front of the suitcase for easy access to paperwork or for storing my toiletry case. The “lid” also boasts a separate suiter-style compartment, which has a hanging mechanism that can be easily removed and simply used to keep items/clothing apart from others. While not must-haves, I also like the hidden luggage tag, which provides a bit of privacy, while still labeling your luggage, as well as the small, zippered pocket located between the handlebars, which is the perfect size for a small travel umbrella (or could easily accommodate cables and power cords).

When comparing Briggs & Riley’s Tall vs Wide carry-on formats, it is mostly a matter of preference, since the cases are essentially the same with regard to overall capacity. However, the 21″ height gives you more flexibility in meeting carry-on standards.

Yes, I probably spent way more time and effort than was warranted in my search for the perfect suitcase, but at the end of this journey, I now have the perfect travel companion for all of my trips (in addition to Darling Husband!), which is a good thing, since the Briggs & Riley bags come with a Lifetime Warranty.

NB: Travel tip: When checking your luggage (yes, you have to do that once in awhile,  especially if you want to bring back a bottle or two of wine), take a photo on your phone so you’ll have the image to share with the airline agent in the event of loss or delay.

Brand Model Dimensions (Height x Width x Depth) Linear inches Weight Price (SRP)
Away The Bigger Carry-On 22.7” x 14.7” x 9.6” 46L 7.3 lbs. $245
Away The Carry-On 21.7” x 13.7” x 9.0” 38L 7.0 lbs. $225
Briggs & Riley Baseline CX Int’l Carry-On Expandable Wide-body Spinner 21.0″ x 15.0″ x 9.0″ 44 L 9.0 lbs. $599
Briggs & Riley Sympatico CX Int’l Carry-On Expandable Spinner 21.0″ x 14.0″ x 9.0″ 44 L 8.0 lbs. $579
Briggs & Riley Transcend Tall 22″ Carry-On Expandable Spinner 22.0″ x 14.0″ x 9.0″ 45 L 8.6 lbs. $469
Briggs & Riley Transcend Wide 21″ Carry-On Expandable Spinner 21.0″ x 15.0″ x 9.0″ 45 L 8.6 lbs. $469
Delsey Helium Shadow 4.0 21″ Hardside Spinner 23.6″ x 15.8” x 10.2″ N/A 6.5 lbs. $280
Rimowa Salsa Air Ultralight Cabin Multi-wheel 21.7” x 15.7” x 9.1” 37 L 4.4 lbs. $495
Rimowa Salsa Multi-wheel 22.0″ x 17.7″ x 9.8″ 47 L 8.4 lbs. $550
TravelPro Platinum Magna 2 Expandable Spinner 21.0″ x 14.0″ x 9.0″ 44 L 7.9 lbs. $270
Tumi V3 International Expandable Carry-On 22.0” x 14.0” x 9.0” 37L 7.1 lbs. $525
Tumi V3 International Slim Carry-On 21.75” x 15.7” x 7.9” 37L 6.4 lbs. $475

 

Gaetano Marangelli: A Man on a Mission

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Gaetano Marangelli is a man on a mission. The owner of Cantine Menhir Salento in Italy’s Puglia region, he has been seeking to re-establish indigenous grape varieties since he was a teenager. Today, his mentor has moved on, but Marangelli is still committed to growing grapes such as Minutolo and Susumaniello.

A member of the Muscat family, Minutolo is also known as Fiano bianco, but it is not related to Campania’s Fiano; instead this association is due to the fact that the word fiano means honey/sweet. Like other Muscat varieties, Minutolo offers up pronounced floral and honey aromas. And, thanks to Marangelli’s efforts, this variety is finding new favor; he presently has about 5 hectares planted.

And, his passion for diversity doesn’t stop at grapes. He is currently in the process of comparing and contrasting different chicken varieties to see if there are differences in the resulting eggs. He also grows numerous varieties of basil, believing that different types of the herb go better in some dishes than others. All of the results of these experiments are incorporated into his restaurant menu.

Marangelli’s Puglian property is situated in Minervino di Lecce, just inland from Otrano in the southeastern portion of Puglia. It boasts 10 hectares of vineyards and is home to a 40-hectare organic farm from which he sources much for his aforementioned, on-site restaurant, Origano – Osteria & Store.

As a company, Mehhir Salento dates to 2005, but the estate is much older, with some Primitivo vineyards planted 80+ years ago. The vineyards are currently undergoing conversion to organic viticulture and Marangelli is on track to receive formal certification in 2019.

In the meantime, he continues to pursue his preservation mission and pouring his passion into his winemaking (and his omelettes).

TASTING NOTES

Pietra Rosato 2017 IGP Salento, Puglia, Italy
This blend of Negroamaro and Susumaniello offers up bright aromas of red apple, cranberries and spice. It is dry with good acidity, nice depth and long length, on the palate.

Passo-O 2017 IGP Puglia, Puglia, Italy
During the Crusades, Otranto, situated on the Apian Way, was a door to the Middle East and a church here was the last spot before one left Italy. This wine honors that legacy with its name. Produced from 100% Minutolo, this wine displays aromas and flavors of pear, floral and a hint of dried herbs, along with medium acidity, medium body and long length.

Pietra Salice Salento DOC 2015 Puglia, Italy
Bringing together 80% Negroamaro, 20% Malvasia Nera, this wine features herbal notes, along with red and black bramble fruits and a hint of oak, with silky tannins and long length.

Anna Pietra Primitivo Susumaniello 2015, Puglia, Italy
Paying tribute to his mother and daughter, both named Anna, this blend of 60% Primitivo 40% Susumaniello sees no oak and, consequently, is a fresher style of red, with ripe black fruit, vibrant acidity and long length.

Ancient Lakes AVA: A Meeting of Mountains, Music and Merlot

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Arriving in Seattle on an unusually clear day, we could see the majestic Mount Rainier through the airplane window, which we took as a good omen of the trip to come – our first foray into Central Washington and our maiden voyage in an RV.

Although the impetus for this visit to the Pacific Northwest was a two-day music festival at The Gorge Amphitheater, as wine lovers we could not resist the siren call of the local vinous culture and were excited about exploring this region along with immersing ourselves into the music.

We loaded up the vehicle with our possessions and hit the road, essentially heading due east. Our route took us through the Cascade Mountain range, which offers up beautiful views and is also responsible for keeping most moisture to the west. Consequently, Washington State’s eastern areas are sunny and dry (and well-suited to irrigated agriculture), while Seattle is steeped in foggy, wet weather.

Our final destination was in George, WA (someone had a sense of humor), but we found a welcoming oasis along Interstate 90 in Ellensburg. This small town (Population: 19,786) is home to Central Washington University and several wineries. We selected Brix Wine Bar as our early dinner option. Owned by Elevage Wine Co/Raised by Wolves, the restaurant lists several wines by the glass (or bottle), but doesn’t provide a tasting option. Surprisingly, they do have gluten-free pizza on the menu, which was quite delicious. We ordered one glass of Malbec and one of Cabernet Sauvignon, with a unanimous preference for the latter.

Thus, we added a bottle of the Cab Sav to our tab to enjoy later, before heading around the corner to Gard Vintners. Its Ellensburg tasting room is open late on Friday nights (4:00-9:00 PM) with the winery’s full range available for tastings as well as by the glass and by the bottle. Live music was a welcome treat as we sampled several different wines, under the tutelage of Riley, our tasting guide that evening. Founded in 2006, this family winery has garnered high scores from the wine media and it was easy to see why. We were wowed by the Roussanne, Vaucluse (a Rhone-style red blend of Syrah and Viognier) and their Provencal-style rosé and added these to our growing collection.

Before we headed out, Riley recommended visits to: Cave B Winery, Beaumont Cellars and Jones of Washington, all of which are in Quincy, WA and situated within the Ancient Lakes AVA.

Created in 2012, the Ancient Lakes AVA’s geology is the result of being carved out by ancient ice age floods, leaving behind 35 namesake lakes. It encompasses 1,600 planted acres with Riesling and Chardonnay as the most planted varieties due to the relatively northern latitude and cooler weather compared to other areas within Columbia Valley.

As a state, Washington ranks as the second largest premium producer of wine in the U.S. Grapes were planted as early as 1825, but today’s vineyards were more recently established during the 1970s. Currently, there are 900 wineries, spread out over 14 AVAs, with the majority (75%) of production centered on Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah. However, diversity does still exist with more than 40 different grapes grown within the state.

Beyond the Ancient Lakes AVA, the wider wine touring region is known as the Cascade Valley and North Central, which is situated between Seattle and Spokane. Within this area, there are 34 wineries or tasting rooms on the Cascade Valley & North Central map in Washington State Wine’s magazine, with another 21 listed in nearby Leavenworth and 7 in Wenatchee, providing tourists with plenty of places to taste.

After departing Gard Vintners, we arrived at The Gorge, queuing up behind a long line of fellow RVs. As we made our way, we were both welcomed and warned to adhere to the campground rules. First and foremost, we were admonished to have a fkin’ good time! In truth, the rules do forbid weapons, but, thankfully, alcohol is permissible (at least for the show we attended). Once in place in our assigned campsite, we unpacked our bags before setting off to explore the venue, then it was time for bed.

The next morning, well-fortified with a hearty breakfast of eggs, bacon and toast, we walked the two miles to Cave B Winery (Riley’s other suggestions were too far for a walk and getting the RV out of camp was just too difficult a proposition). Originally founded as Champs de Brionne by Dr. (a neurosurgeon) and Mrs. Bryan in 1980, Cave B Winery’s vast estate boasts 140 acres of vines comprised of 17 different varieties; orchards; a spa; a restaurant with stunning views of the Columbia River; and a myriad of lodging options, including yurts and cave rooms.

All of Cave B’s wines are produced with estate-grown fruit and a $10 tasting fee will get you a sample of 3 whites and 3 reds. While I liked all six wines, I was especially enamored with the Tempranillo. Among the whites, their off-dry Riesling stood out. Overall, this region and its wines were quite unfamiliar to me before our arrival, but I was impressed with what we tasted.

During Champs de Brionne’s early days, a natural bowl on the property was discovered to have near-perfect acoustics and the idea of a music venue was born as a way to draw people to the winery “in the middle of nowhere.” Before long, the popularity of these summer music began to grow, transforming the original concept from a small theater into the grander The Gorge Amphitheater, accompanied by the build out of a much larger stage and capacity for 20,000+ participants.

By 1993, the Bryans divested themselves of The Gorge Amphitheater and its campgrounds, but retained the vineyards and additional acreage. During this period, they continued to grow grapes, which they sold to other wine producers. But, in 2000, the couple was ready to re-enter winemaking with the creation of Cave B Winery, a smaller, premium winery. They added the inn and restaurant in 2005.

Given this history, it was fitting to have tasted at Cave B before heading back to our campsite for the main event: ABGT250.

DJs and musicians, Above & Beyond, comprise three London-based guys (Jono Grant, Tony McGuinness, and Paavo Siljamäki) who started making music together in 1999. They have cultivated a rabid following that spans the globe and inculcated a special ethos among them. They have also launched record labels Anjunabeats and Anjunadeep, giving a start to other EDM artists. Fans assert that their concerts are life-changing experiences after attending just a single one, so it is no surprise that their events are well attended.

Named for their podcast series, Above & Beyond Group Therapy (ABGT), their ABGT live events draw fans from around the globe. The group began doing live shows on the occasion of the 50th podcast (ABGT50), a tradition that has carried forward each year (coincident with the next 50th show). The first was held in London, followed by New York, Sydney, Amsterdam and now Washington State. Rumors have it that ABGT300 will be in Asia.

The festival itself kicked off with a free screening of Above & Beyond’s live filming of a recent performance on Friday night as a thank you to those who arrived early, but the main event took place on Saturday evening with a special set by Above & Beyond. The line-up included Luttrell, Yotto, Oliver Smith, Genix & Sunny Lax, a reprise from the headliners at 11:00 PM, accompanied by fireworks and glowing digital bracelets (from sponsor TMobile), before concluding with Seven Lions & Jason Ross.

Sunday’s daytime set was more mellow, with Above & Beyond’s music as the backdrop for a morning yoga practice and the use of the venue’s smaller stage. Highlights included Moon Boots, Eli & Fur, Jody Wisternoff & James Grant, 16 Bit Lolitas, and a joint return to the stage by Yotto and Luttrell at the end. A brief rain shower on Sunday evening did not seem to put a damper on anyone’s spirits, with music continuing long into the night, thanks to “pop-up” concerts embedded in the food court area and the campgrounds.

We were up early Monday morning ready to return to civilization, but would certainly consider the trip a success. Admittedly, it was an interesting combination of hobbies, but this meeting of mountains, music and Merlot was a perfect balance for us, as we navigated new adventures and divergent musical tastes. And, I didn’t hate the RV; it was definitely much more comfortable and luxurious that a tent would have been.