Category Archives: The Wine World

Let’s Hear It for the Bees: Sokol Blosser supports sustainability

Posted on by
Reply

I’ve always been a fan of Sokol Blosser Winery and now there is even more to love about this iconic Oregon wine producer: they are doubling-down on their commitment to the earth!

The winery has been a leader in the sustainability movement since the 1970s, but more recently, they have turned their attention to closures. This is not specifically a rehash of the cork vs. screwcap debate, but rather a recognition that cork is not biodegradeable. Yes, it is a renewable resource, but it is precisely because it doesn’t degrade that makes it such a useful option with which to seal wine and other products.

Consequently, in an effort to reduce its environmental impact, Sokol Blosser was the first winery in the world to place an order for DIAM’s newest product Origine by DIAM. The winery is trialing this new closure on a portion (15%) of its 2015 Dundee Hills Estate Pinot Noir, which was released in May (2018). Like DIAM’s other products, Origine is a technical cork, but utilizes a beeswax emulsion and 100% vegetable polyols. This makes it recyclable and, equally important, able to permit the wine to age, without fear of cork taint.

Given the product’s use of beeswax, DIAM has joined in the effort to bolster the honey bee population by investing in beehives in various French wine regions. Sokol Blosser is also showing its support for bees by donating $1 for every bottle sold under the new Origine cork to the Eugene, OR-based Save the Bee organization through April 2019. This funding will help the Oregon State University and Washington State University honeybee labs, which conduct vital research into the declining honey bee population and also teach beekeeping skills to the community.

But, of course, what’s in the bottle is still important. And, make no mistake, Sokol Blosser continues to live up to its reputation as a producer of high quality Pinot Noir!

Sokol Blosser Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 2015, Dundee Hills (OR), USA, $40.00
A beautiful, complex nose with aromas of earth, barnyard and dried cherries gives way to a dry palate with rich, ripe cherry fruit flavors, along with bright acidity, low tannins, medium body and very long length.

 

NB: If you are looking to be more sustainable yourself, here are some ideas of what to do with your own collections of corks: DIY Projects and Cork Recycling Options.

At Bodegas Beronia, It’s All About that Barrel

Posted on by
Reply

Back in 1973, a group of friends (in Spain) realized that they loved good food and wine and decided to embark on a joint venture in making wine for themselves. Once they got started, they had way too much wine, so they began gifting the wine to business colleagues and selling to local restaurants.

But, their production levels were still too high for personal consumption, prompting them to look for a commercial partner. In 1982, the group crossed paths with Sherry producer (and wine company) Gonzalez Byass and soon entered into a partnership with them, enabling Bodegas Beronia to grow into a successful, international brand.

Concurrent with the partnership, Matias Calleja joined the team as winemaker and has been with Bodegas Beronia ever since. This year, Calleja will celebrate his 37th vintage with the company, having completed only one harvest elsewhere (in Tarragona, his first). Yet, despite his lengthy tenure, he is still enjoying his post and having fun.

Moreover, Calleja has had a lasting influence on Bodegas Beronia in establishing the winery’s distinctive style. In this regard, he has been at the forefront of how best to impart oak into the wine.

As a wine that requires lengthy aging, Rioja has always been about wood and, in particular, about American oak; there was no use of French oak until the 1970s.  Once both types of wood were in play, for many winemakers, it was a matter of determining the best blend of American and French barrels.

American oak imparts cocoa, mocha and a sweeter note to the wine, while French oak gives more spice, clove, vanilla and pepper notes. Calleja initially tried aging some of the wine in American oak and some in French oak and then, ultimately, blending the wine together. But, the results were less than satisfactory. Instead, he had the brainchild to blend the cask itself; all of the barrel staves are made from American oak (representing about 65% of the barrel), while the top and bottom are made from French oak.

Yet, in spite of all this emphasis on oak, he is adamant that the fruit comes first and the oak must be secondary.  So, while it may seem that it is all about that bass (aka the wood influence); it’s actually all about the fruit!

Calleja’s hybrid barrels are primarily used for the Crianza and Reserva levels of his Rioja, while the Gran Reserva spends 26-28 months in French barrels, since French oak is better for longer-aged wines. As Calleja explained, “It respects the fruit better.” Having the opportunity at a recent press lunch to taste through barrel samples of the same wine aged in three different barrel types was extremely instructive in understanding how the oak shows up in the wine.

In addition to its traditional Riojan reds, Bodegas Beronia also produces a Rueda ($13 SRP) and a Rosé (~$13). For the Rueda, the harvest is intentionally staggered and lees contact is undertaken, both of which add fullness to the wine. Plus, the fermentation temperature is carefully controlled. The result is a wine with good aromatics in addition to a rich and round palate, with medium+ body and freshness. The winery’s rosé has recently undergone a makeover due to demand from the market (the U.S. in particular), evolving from a dark-colored Tempranillo to one with a more Provençal style. The new wine brings together Tempranillo and Garnacha, with only three hours of skin contact, producing a more savory, delicate and drier wine than their previous version, with melon, peach and herbal notes.

RIOJA TASTING NOTES

Bodegas Beronia Reserva 2013, Rioja Spain, $20.00
As a Reserva-level Rioja, this wine  was aged for 20 months in hybrid barrels, before spending an additional two years in bottle. The wine offers up strawberry, black cherry, oak, vanilla and spice aromas with juicy fruit, bright acidity and ripe tannins on the medium+-bodied palate.

Bodegas Beronia Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja Spain, $30.00
Aged for  28 months in French oak, this wine displays beautiful fresh and dried floral aromas along with strawberry, clove and oak, which persist on the palate. It has lovely acidity, a full body and long length.

 

 

Everything’s Coming Up Rubies: Hess Collection Celebrates Its 40th Anniversary

Posted on by
Reply

The traditional gift for a 40th anniversary is ruby, so it is especially fitting that the Hess Collection, first established in 1978, should celebrate with several new “ruby red” releases. While many know the wine label for its entry-level Hess Select wines, the company’s more prestigious Hess Collection consists of Napa Valley and sub-Napa Valley appellations, all of which are produced from estate grown fruit and are more complex, site-specific expressions of the Napa Valley terroir.

Founder Donald Hess, who literally turned water into wine when he sold off his bottled water business to buy acreage in the Napa Valley in 1978, has now retired. In 2011, Hess ceded his legacy to the next generation – his daughter Sabrina and son-in-law, Tim Persson – while winemaking operations continue to be overseen by Senior Vice President for Winemaking and Viticulture, Dave Guffy, who has been with Hess since 1999.

Situated on Mount Veeder, next door to the Christian Brothers, Hess winery is one of the largest landowners in the Valley, with 700 planted acres. And, they are constantly on the look out for more. Nicole Carter, Hess Family Wine Estates Director of Winemaking and Chief Marketing Officer, relayed a story about the recent pursuit for a 10-acre Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard in Rutherford on which they were significantly outbid over their $7 million offer. At an average price of $1million per planted acre in the valley, Carter adds, “You have to have the stomach for writing big checks.”

Having been born and raised in Switzerland, Hess, the 4th generation of a brewing family, has always had a more European palate for wines and consequently, the Hess house style tends toward a less oak is more mentality, which is noticeably reflected in the wines.

Another influence from Hess’ early life is his passion for collecting art. Hess grew up in a household with white walls, devoid of any decoration, but was introduced to the artworld by a friend and bought his first painting, a Picasso (why start small?), in 1996, igniting a life-long passion for contemporary art. In addition to limiting his purchases to those pieces he loves, his criteria also require that he only collects art from those artists with whom he has a relationship and, interestingly, will not permit the artist to restore any pieces, preferring to rely on conservators who will not make any changes. Twenty-five percent of his collection is displayed at the Napa Valley winery, adding a museum experience for visitors. The art legacy is carried on by a second daughter, while the third daughter has taken on dad’s real estate interests.

With its storied history, the Hess family crest, which proudly features a byzantine-style lion, has always adorned the family’s alcoholic pursuits. It previously graced the labels of the family’s beer business and was then adopted for the winery. A more recent adaptation of the lion has been designed for the label of the newly created “Lion Tamer” and more strongly recalls the history of the original Hess crest.

Similarly, the Icon family of wines, which are made up of “The Lioness” and “The Lion”, also display the lion and engender the Hess Family credo, “Live each day with the heart and courage of the lion,” as the top wines in the Collection. In particular, “The Lioness”, a Chardonnay, was crafted to honor the Hess women, and was first released in 2015.

Aside from the eponymous winery in Napa Valley, The Hess Collection owns two wineries in Argentina: Colomé and Amalaya; a Pinot Noir property, Macphail Family Wines, on California’s North Coast, and a Zinfandel-focused label, Artezin. So, there are plenty of options for you to choose as you raise a glass and toast Hess’ 40th Anniversary!

TASTING NOTES
Hess Collection Chardonnay 2016. Napa Valley, USA, $22
The grapes for this wine are sourced from 200 acres of vineyards planted in the southern end of the Napa Valley, which is south of Carneros and located in the unincorporated portion of the Valley, formerly home to an ancient sea bed. Featuring the Musque clone, the overtly aromatic character of this clone is immediately apparent in the wine with floral and peach aromas and flavors. During production, 70% is fermented in stainless steel, while the remainder is barrel-fermented, adding depth and texture, but not a distinct oak flavor. It is full bodied, with a fresh and luscious palate, culminating in long length.

Hess Collection “Allomi” Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Napa Valley, USA, $32
Named for the original land grant that established this ranch, the grapes for this wine come from a 75-acre plot in the Pope Valley. It is a Cabernet Sauvignon, with a touch of Petit Sirah and Malbec added and is the only wine in the Collection to be aged in American oak (as opposed to French). It is a really elegant presentation, lightly oaked, with soft tannins, good acidity and medium+ to full body. Its beautiful nose is redolent of blackberry/black fruits, spice and a hint of dried herbs; great value for a Napa Valley Cab!

Hess Collection “Lion Tamer” Red Blend 2015, Napa Valley, USA, $45
Hess is one of the largest growers of Malbec in Napa. Why? Because the tannins of Malbec can tame the tannins of other grapes, prompting the development of this new wine. An interesting blend of 55% Malbec, 23% Zinfandel and a soupcon of Mourvedre for aromatics and acidity, this wine offers up bright red and black fruit, particularly blueberries, soft tannins, medium+ body and fresh acidity. It is intense and powerful, yet fresh and lively on the palate.

Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Mount Veeder-Napa Valley, USA, $65
The company’s flagship wine, this Cabernet Sauvignon hails from the original vineyard, planted in 1978. Its nose was a bit shy, but the palate was more generous. It is very structured, with ripe, yet firm tannins, blackberry, a hint of oak, dried herbs and full bodied, with long length.

Hess Collection “The Lion” Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Mount Veeder-Napa Valley, USA, $185
Of the aforementioned Icon wines, this wine is produced from grapes from a top Mt. Veeder vineyard known as Ridge 4. Aromas of blackberry, oak, smoke and menthol greet the nose and persist on the palate, along with an earthiness that lingers in the long finish. The wine has good acidity and elegance, but is tight and needs time to develop to be truly appreciated.

Celebrating Argentine Wines on World Malbec Day

Posted on by
Reply

It’s time to break out the barbecue as we anticipate the arrival of fairer weather and grilling season this weekend. Plus, it’s time to celebrate Argentina’s signature grape variety on World Malbec Day, which takes place on April 17, 2018.

Admittedly, Malbec got its start in southwest France (think Cahors and – to a lesser extent – Bordeaux), having been cultivated in the area since Roman times. But the grape has been quite successful in making a home for itself in the Mendoza region of Argentina.

In fact, Argentina’s long relationship with Malbec dates to 1853 when agronomist Michel Aimé Pouget brought the grape to the New World country, having been hired to run an agricultural school there. On April 17th of that year, a bill was submitted to the legislature to establish the new school and was passed into law by early September. In addition to the school’s influence, Argentina’s early viticulture was also shaped by Italian and French immigrants, who brought their grape growing experience and expertise with them. Moreover, Malbec quickly adapted to its new home, rising in popularity and prominence. However, it wasn’t until 2011 that World Malbec Day took place for the first time.

On its own, this variety offers up fresh fruit aromas of black and bramble fruit and violet, usually joined by oak, vanilla due to barrel aging regimens. It generally produces wines with medium-to-full body, moderate-to-firm tannins and medium-to-high alcohol levels. Malbec grapes grown at the higher elevations found in the Andes Mountains benefit from the good diurnal variation and long hang time, developing thick skins and concentrated flavors.

But, while World Malbec Day is a great excuse to open up a Malbec wine, it is also a wonderful opportunity to celebrate Argentina’s wines in all their splendor and diversity. At the 11th edition of the Argentina Wine Awards, well titled as “Breaking New Ground,” 47 wines earned a score of 95 points and 17 wines received trophies: 6 red blends, 5 Malbecs, 1 Cabernet Sauvignon, 1 Cabernet Franc, 1 Chardonnay, 1 sparkling wine, 1 white blend and 1 sweet wine, proving that Argentina can produce more than just Malbec.

Of course, like wines from elsewhere, Argentine wines can be enjoyed with nearly any cuisine. However, with its adopted home being among the steak capitals of the world, it can be the perfect pairing partner for these wines.

In gearing up for the “holiday,” Hess Family Wine Estates sent out recipes for meals featuring Grilled Tomahawk Steak with Squash And Zesty Watercress Salad (Amalaya recipe) and another for Seared Lamb with Fresh Corn & Quinoa Soup (Colomé recipe), to be enjoyed with its Colomé Malbec 2015, Salta, Argentina, $25.00 (100% Malbec)* and Amalaya Malbec 2016, Salta, Argentina, $16.00 (85% Malbec, 10% Tannat, 5% Petit Verdot) wines. I happily indulged in the recipes, tweaking them a bit to fit our tastes and our pantry.

Specifically, we decided to cook our steaks in our cast iron skillet using a spice rub (we live in a NYC apartment and don’t have access to a grill), substituted a very large sweet potato in place of butternut squash and chose to forgo the other vegetables in the “squash with vegetable chips.” For the watercress salad, we skipped the habanero peppers and used lemon juice instead of lemon zest, with salt, pepper and good quality EVOO.

We also added the corn and quinoa soup to our meal from the Colome menu since it sounded so good. If you can grill your corn, it will definitely add a layer of depth and complexity, but you can just as easily “cheat” like I did and use a bag of frozen corn (much easier than wrestling the kernels off an ear of corn). The recipe calls for white quinoa, but we only had red quinoa and you can use the general quinoa ratio (1 cup quinoa to 2 cups water) rather than try to figure out 5.3 oz of quinoa. If you are dairy-free, substitute ghee or olive oil. I also added in some Cayenne pepper to give the soup a bit of a welcome (to us) kick.

All in all, it was a delicious dinner and went quite well with the two Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

TASTING NOTES
Viña Cobos Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Chardonnay 2016, Perdriel/Lujan de Cuyo, Argentina, $42.00
This wine was barrel fermented with native yeasts and underwent malolactic fermentation while in barrel. It then spent 12 months in French oak barrels, 50% of which were new. Despite the oak treatment, the oak character was relatively integrated and balanced, along with rich apple and tropical fruit flavors.

Amalaya Malbec 2016, Salta, Argentina, $16.00
This wine brings together 85% Malbec with 10% Tannat and 5% Petit Verdot. On the nose, the wine shows an intensity of berries, bramble fruit and a hint of smoke, which persist on the dry, full-bodied palate, balanced out with medium+ acidity and  medium+ ripe tannins.

Andeluna Altitud Malbec 2014, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina, $20.00
Deep inky purple in color, this wine displays berries, oak, vanilla and a hint of earth on the nose. On the palate, it is dry with ripe black cherry and blackberry fruit, joined by some oak and herbal notes, with medium+ acidity, firm tannins, full body and medium+ length.

Colomé Malbec 2015, Salta, Argentina, $25.00
This wine spent 15 months aging in French oak barrels, which comes across as smoke and oak on both the nose and palate, joined by a slight floral note. It offers up good acidity with lots of blackberry and plum flavors, along with an herbal undercurrent and a long finish.

Vincentin Colosso 2014, Luyan de Cuyo and Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina, $45.00
A blend of 94% Malbec, with 3% each of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this wine was aged for 24 months in new French oak barrels. It has an intense woody, red fruit, berries, spice and vanilla nose, which all persist on the dry, medium+-bodied palate, culminating in long length.

Bodega Sottano Reserva de Familia Malbec 2015, Luyan de Coyo, Mendoza, Argentina, $30.00
This wine spent 15 months in new oak (70% French and 30% American) barrels. The wine’s intense nose provides notes of plum, bramble fruit, oak and a hint of perfume, all of which persist on the luscious palate. An intensity of fruit character dominates, but the wine is also very fresh, with balance and long length.

Bodegas Norton Gernot Langes 2012, Luyan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, $100.00
This 80% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc blend has an intense nose of violets, oak, cedar, berries and vanilla. Its palate is dry with a sweet attack of ripe fruit of blackberries, black cherry, firm tannins, full body and long length. It is a powerful and concentrated wine that will improve with bottle age.

Viña Cobos Cocodrilo Corte 2015, Luyan de Cuyo and Valley de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina, $28.00*
Bringing together 77% Cabernet Sauvignon with 15% Malbec and 8% Cabernet Franc, this Bordeaux-style blend is lush with ripe fruit on the nose and palate, redolent of blackberry, black cherry and a woody undercurrent. It shows good acidity, with firm tannins and medium+ body on the powerful and rich palate.

Bodega Luigi Bosca Finca Los Nobles Field Blend Cabernet Bouchet, 2012, Mendoza, Argentina, $70.00*
Produced from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouchet grapes that have been grown together for more than 90 years, at an altitude of 1,050 meters above sea level, this wine is then aged for 24 months in new French oak barrels. This is an elegant, yet powerful wine, with classic Cabernet Sauvignon characteristics. It displays aromas and flavors of blackberry, oak, smoke, herbs and dried flowers with bright acidity, firm tannins, and full body.

Proemio Reserve Syrah Garnacha 2015, Mendoza, Argentina, $20.00
The 50-50 blend was co-fermented before being aged for 12 months in French oak. With aromas of cloves, leather and black cherry, the dry wine then offers up bright acidity, black cherry, oak, spice, firm tannins and long length on its palate. A really lovely wine, especially for the price.

*Argentina Wine Awards Trophy Winner

Tannat: The Wine Bar Where Helen Knows Your Name

Posted on by
Reply

With many people bemoaning the closures of well-loved, long-time establishments lately, it is nice to see new places springing up to take their place in our hearts. Like Tannat Wine & Cheese. Tannat is the hot new wine bar you’ve never heard of…until now.

Opened in December 2017, Tannat took over a former razor store (the vagaries of questionable businesses in New York) in Inwood and is breathing new life into the neighborhood.

The small storefront, situated on Broadway, just a few blocks south of Dyckman, is the brainchild of business (and life) partners, William Emery and Sarah Goler. Billed as “Natural Wine & Rustic Cuisine,” their cute and clever watering hole is described as a cross between a wine bar and a farm to table restaurant. The pair further note that their wines can be summed up as “S.N.O.B.S.” given that they are S-ustainable, N-atural, O-rganic, B-iodynamic and S-mall Lot.

Will and Sarah are anything, but snobs. Rather, they are focused on simple ideas such as sustainable ingredients, fair practices and quality food and wine. To this end, they are working toward B-corp status for the business, which is named for a French grape variety (now finding a home in Uruguay). Yet, despite the name, the duo appear to be more inclined toward palindromes than toward Tannat itself, although it does garner a spot on the wine list, as evidenced by the inclusion of
TANNAT
wine & cheese
eseehc & eniw
TANNAT
at the top of the food menu.

On our first visit, I kicked off the evening with a rosé sparkler, while hubby homed in on the Pét-Nat.* We eventually strayed into the Orange Wine # section, which offers not one, not two, but 3 or 4 orange wines! To accompany our wine choices, we tasted a variety of small dishes including a sea bass crudo with sun-dried tomato and a porridge that featured a unique, perennial (and hence, more sustainable) grain called Kernza (See: https://landinstitute.org/our-work/perennial-crops/kernza/ for more information on this great (but, sadly not gluten-free, grain.)

The menu changes daily depending upon what’s available in the market. Visiting on back to back evenings, I can attest to the variance. The selection includes local cheeses, meat boards and some interesting spreads such as a butternut squash spread we enjoyed during our date night.

While the emphasis is on fresh and seasonal ingredients, the menu does sport a few recurring dishes such as house made pickled vegetables and Pao de Queijo, a Brazilian cheese bread, touted on the menu as being addictive, but which, thankfully, is delicious, but not as dangerous as advertised ? The menu also includes a category called, “But I Shoulds,” listing several different chocolate truffles, making it hard to resist a small bite of dessert.

The sophisticated and well curated list of wines can be enjoyed by the “splash,” glass or bottle. Splashes are generally quite generous and permit customers to enjoy a wide range of wines rather than committing to a full glass of something. Moreover, with unusual wines from the Jura and Slovenia starring grapes such as Trousseau and Rkatsiteli from well-regarded producers, guests are invited to venture outside their comfort zone of Chardonnay, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc. For the less vinous-inclined, Tannat also has a selection of beers.

For our second visit, we explored more food and shifted our attention to the reds, sampling a Turley Cinsault and Domaine Ouled Thaleb’s Syrocco – a Syrah from Morocco that was on special that evening due to the wine class they had taught earlier in the day. Visits three and four provided the opportunity to taste the KTW Rkatsiteli Qvevri from Georgia (the country, not the state), an orange wine fermented in a clay amphora and a sparkling Arneis from Piedmont producer, Malvira.

Tannat offers two happy hours (happy, happy!) Monday through Friday; first at 5:00-7:00 and then again from 11:00 PM to close (2:00 AM), during which customers receive a discount on full glass prices. Wine school classes are held on Saturdays from 3:00-5:00.

In addition to bar seating, couples and trios can sit along the banquette and tables that run parallel to the bar, while larger groups are more easily accommodated at the high-top tables in the front of the room.

Shuttling between the bar and tables throughout the night, Helen Pitkowsky is warm, welcoming and knowledgeable. The experienced hospitality professional was lured uptown for the role and seems to very much enjoy her new post (and presumably the shorter commute – she’s a WaHi gal).

As I sat watching her on a Friday night, Helen greeted many customers by name and even reminded two men sitting at the bar that they had met each other previously. Her sincerity and kindness greatly add to the bar’s atmosphere and instill a true neighborhood vibe. And while I hope to spend less time at the bar than Norm Peterson, I do aspire to be a regular here; Helen already knows my name. Cheers to Tannat!

*Pét-Nat (short for Pétillant-naturel) is a sparkling wine produced in a more ancient and rustic production method, with the wine bottled prior to the completion of primary fermentation, thus trapping the carbon dioxide (a by-product of alcoholic fermentation) in the bottle and producing an effervescent wine.

#Orange wines are those produced with white grapes that have had some skin contact, thereby infusing some color – an orange hue – and are often given some intentional exposure to air, thereby imparting an oxidative character to the wines.

Tannat
4736 Broadway
New York, NY 10040
Monday to Sunday: 5PM to 2AM

Prosecco Superiore: The Perfect Partner for Celebrating Your Partner

Posted on by
Reply

While sparkling wine is chiefly associated with New Year’s Eve, I think it is an equally lovely accompaniment to Valentine’s Day! A glass of effervescent bubbles always elevates the occasion and, while it might be a so-called “Hallmark holiday,” there’s no reason not to celebrate love in all of its many forms.

There certainly is no specific sparkler for the holiday, but Prosecco Superiore is a great place to start for several reasons (For more details on what makes Prosecco Superiore so superior, please check out this previous article.) In particular, these Italian bubbles are becoming more well known and thus, easy to find on restaurants’ wine lists and retailers’ shelves. In addition, these wines carry the higher quality designation – DOCG – which signals to your date that you care about them to invest in the good stuff.

But, even better, this isn’t a major investment. These wines are generally priced under $25.00, so your upgrade in quality doesn’t break the bank. Plus, their popularity is well deserved – they are beautifully balanced, with a lovely mousse and floral and fresh fruit flavors such as pear, peach, apple and citrus.

Their lively acidity makes them very food friendly. Hence, they marry well at the table, but are easily well suited as an aperitif to kickoff the dining experience. Or, perhaps to toast an engagement at the end of a meal!

Happy Valentine’s Day!

Tasting Notes

BiancaVigna Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG Brut Prosecco Superiore 2015, Veneto, Italy, $23.00
This winery was established in 2004 by the brother and sister team of Elena and Enrico Moschetta. This wine is very floral on the nose with a slight note of spiced pear. It is dry and crisp on the palate, with white flowers, nectarine, pear and long length. It pairs especially well with food due to its vibrant acidity and clean finish.

 

Ruggeri Vecchie Viti Valdobbiadene DOCG Brut Prosecco Superiore NV, Veneto, Italy, $22.00
Produced from vines that average 80 to 100 years old, this wine has been given the designation “Vecchie Viti” (old vines). The nose is redolent of flowers and pears. The slightly off-dry palate displays medium to high acidity, with peach, pear and floral notes, along with long length. With its hint of sweetness, this wine would pair well with spicy foods or with rich, fatty meats.

 

 

Le Colture Fagher Valdobbiadene DOCG Brut Prosecco Superiore NV, Veneto, Italy, $16.00
The “Fagher” is the most modern in style of Le Colture’s Prosecco Superiore offerings, putting it at a
It offers up an intense nose of flowers, pear and slight citrus aromas. On the palate, it is dry with a creamy mousse, along with crisp acidity and citrus and green apple flavors, culminating in long length. Another food friendly option.

 

A Plethora of Prosecco for the Holiday Season

Posted on by
Reply

One of my biggest (wine) pet peeves, is when people use the word Champagne as a generic term for sparkling wine. But, while all Champagne is sparkling wine, only those bottles of bubbly that come from the Champagne region in France are entitled to that protected term.

Another well-known sparkler is Prosecco and, as my friend Dan lately noted, Prosecco has become a safe word. Admittedly, he wasn’t referring to the bedroom, but rather, to the bar, where Prosecco’s familiarity offers an easy way to order an effervescent option amidst the hustle and bustle of an overwhelming wine list.

Yet, despite its long history – mention of Prosecco dates as far back as Roman times – this Venetian sparkling wine hasn’t always been as popular as it is today. But, it is precisely this newfound fame that was almost its undoing.

In fact, given its broad name recognition, Prosecco had become a victim of its own success, with fraudulent products flooding the market and its name appropriated much like Champagne as a catch-all for a glass or bottle of bubbles. It was this proliferation of non-Prosecco Prosecco that prompted the consortium to radically revise its rules back in 2009.

Chief among these changes was the introduction of Glera as the name of the grape formerly referred to as Prosecco and the designation of a delimited area as the Prosecco territory: a swath of land that spans nine provinces within two Italian wine regions (Veneto and Friuli), formally codifying the historic and existing production zones and the production procedures themselves. Accordingly, Prosecco DOC is now a protected geographic indication (PGI) and wannabe wines are forbidden from affixing the term Prosecco to their labels. Additionally, a second designation, Prosecco Superiore DOCG was simultaneously created (See Promoting Prosecco, Parlare Prosecco Superiore and Slowing Down in Asolo). These new regulations have helped to protect Prosecco from copycats, but vigilance by the consortium is still required.

The continued growth in demand (and sales) for Prosecco has been met with a steady swell in supply from just under 1.5 million hectoliters in 2011 to just over 3.5 million hectoliters in 2016, with a current volume of over 400 million bottles annually. Three-quarters of these bottles find their way outside of Italy, namely the UK and the U.S.

As a fresh, fruit-driven sparkler, Prosecco gets its aromatic character from the Glera grape, which must make up 85% of the wine and the use of the Charmat, instead of the Traditional, Method of sparkling wine production. Charmat production relies exclusively on stainless steel and omits the lengthy ageing on the lees that Champagne and other similar wines undergo. In addition to preserving fresh and fragrant aromas, this process results in lower costs and speedier sparkles.

Not surprising, Prosecco’s pleasant fruity and floral aromas, low alcohol, lively acidity and persistent effervescence account for its wide appeal. Yet, despite its increased popularity, Prosecco should not be dismissed as merely a cheap and cheerful sparkler. Yes, these are relatively inexpensive ($15-20) compared with their costly ($40 and up) counterparts: Champagne, Franciacorta (page 17) and luxury Cava. But, they still offer complexity and balance on the nose and palate.

In fact, I was reminded of this diversity at a recent comparative tasting of ten Proseccos. While there was a common wine style of peach, pear and/or apple aromas among the selection, they differed in intensity, acidity and sweetness levels.

Admittedly, all of the wines showed well, but I did have a few favorites of the line-up which included: La Jara Prosecco di Treviso Frizzante, Perlage Sgajo Extra Dry Prosecco di Treviso, La Marca Prosecco, Bianca Vigna Brut Prosecco, Astoria Extra Dry Prosecco di Treviso, and Villa Sandi Il Fresco Prosecco di Treviso (tasting notes below).

With its crowd-pleasing characteristics, Prosecco is a perfect option for the holiday season, which can easily work as an aperitif, a food-friendly pairing at the table and as a toast to health, happiness and prosperity!

Just don’t call it Champagne.

TASTING NOTES
La Jara NV, Prosecco di Treviso DOC Frizzante, Veneto, Italy
While most Prosecco wines are fully sparkling, a small fraction is produced in a lightly fizzy (aka frizzante) style as is this one. Fresh aromas of peach and honeysuckle greet the nose. The dry palate displays bright acidity and a lighter body, with flavors of lemon curd and white flowers. This is a very fresh and pleasant wine with plenty of acidity to pair well with food. Medium+ length.

Perlage Sgajo Extra Dry NV, Prosecco di Treviso DOC, Veneto, Italy
This Vegan wine is a bit shy on the nose, but its dry palate offers up ripe citrus and floral notes, along with medium+ acidity, nice, creamy mousse and long length with a slight fruitiness lingering in the finish coupled with some minerality and salinity. Good complexity.

La Marca NV, Prosecco, Veneto, Italy
Pronounced pear aromas with some peach and floral notes on the nose give way to a dry, yet fruity palate with flavors of honey, honeysuckle and pear plus a hint of lime. There is a lovely richness on the palate, with a creamy mousse and medium+ length.

Bianca Vigna Brut NV Prosecco, Veneto, Italy
This wine is very floral on the nose with an interesting richness and complexity on the palate reminiscent of Riesling – displaying an oily/petrol character – joined by pear and apple flavors and culminating in long length.

Astoria Extra Dry NV, Prosecco di Treviso DOC, Veneto, Italy
Aromas of pear and apple dominate the nose while the dry palate features apple, citrus and slight minerality, along with medium+ acidity, a very clean finish and medium+ length.

Villa Sandi Il Fresco NV, Prosecco di Treviso DOC, Veneto, Italy
This wine shows floral and peach aromas, with a slightly off-dry palate that is round and creamy, balanced by medium+ acidity. Its ripe peach and floral flavors are joined by honey in the finish, culminating in long length.

Pairing Beyond the Ordinary

Posted on by
Reply

Once, at a trade event, a woman advised me that the wine I was tasting went well with food. Well, duh! Wine has always been a beverage meant to be enjoyed with a meal and is among the only ones where both are enhanced by one another. In some cultures, drinking wine without food is anathema.

More recently the trend has been to look well beyond the axiom, “What grows together goes together,” in favor of showcasing the flexibility of a given wine by pairing it with less expected culinary options. Think Alsatian Gewürztraminer with Indian curries or Prosecco with sushi.

At Atla, Michelin-starred Cosme’s younger, more casual sibling, Mexican inspired food was served alongside a selection of New Zealand wines from Kim Crawford. This NZ producer has always been one of my go-tos for Sauvignon Blanc, but it was nice to see that the range seems to have been expanded stateside, as we also had the opportunity to taste the Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Rosé and Pinot Noir. Adding a further twist to the evening, dessert was a Mexican Hot Chocolate (recipe below), featuring the Pinot Noir. This was served after I left, so I didn’t get a chance to taste it, but with the cold rain pouring down that evening, I am sure it was a welcome treat.

Image courtesy of Susannah Gold

A few blocks away, I was introduced to the wines of Lugana, a small Italian wine region, which spans both Lombardy and the Veneto. These wines, primarily produced from the Trebbiano di Soave grape variety, may be dry, sparkling or, in the case of late harvest, sweet, dessert style wines. During the dinner at La Pizza Fresca, these beautiful white wines were more traditionally matched with a traditional Italian meal of arugula salad, beets, pizzas and a selection of fish, chicken and meat.

Among the less traditional decisions was choosing to pair these white wines with short ribs, but it worked well due to the richness, depth and full-bodied nature of many of the wines. My tasting notes are a bit spotty, but I was particularly impressed with the light, freshness of the Olivini Lugana DOC 2016, the complexity and richness of the Selva Capuzza Lugana Riserva DOC Menasso 2013 and the beautiful balance of the Margona Lugana DOC Vendemmia Tardiva dessert wine.

Both the Kim Crawford and Lugana events worked well primarily due to the basic pairing principle of ensuring that the wines had sufficient acidity to go well with the various dishes. Accordingly, their crisp, clean nature meant that one’s palate was cleansed between bites and ready for more, while simultaneously they highlighted the flavors in the accompanying food; an overall reminder that simple rules can serve us well even when we think we are breaking them.

The next night found us in Williamsburg at an unusual venue for the launch of Enjoy la Vie from Bordeaux negociant, Cordier. Entering through a loading dock, we were immediately struck by the quirky, high-ceilinged, warehouse-style space of ACME Studios. The space appears to be more regularly used for photo shoots, but it was a fun place to explore these new, entry-level wines.

The focus was on decidedly on France, with the classic pairing of cheeses and charcuterie. Similarly, attendees were invited to don a beret, grab a baguette and pose for a photo, instantly transformed (and immortalized) into cute, French clichés. But, despite the expected match, the event was far from boring and not all things were classically French. Namely, the brass band with its bold and boisterous jazz music meant that this was not a typical Bordeaux tasting.

With regard to the wines themselves, I was more impressed with the Bordeaux Blanc and Bordeaux Rouge wines than the varietally-labeled Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. Regardless, I had a great time at the event. Most likely because I was paired with my wonderful husband. Which just underscores that context and company are is often just as important as the cuisine.

 

 

 

MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE
INGREDIENTS:
4 oz Kim Crawford Pinot Noir
2 oz dairy milk or non-dairy milk (almond is a good option)
3 Tbsp powdered baking cocoa
1 oz coffee liqueur
1 Tbsp brown sugar
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
Pinch chili powder

DIRECTIONS:
Pre-warm an 8-10 oz coffee mug. In a saucepan, combine chocolate powder and brown sugar with milk to make into a rich syrup. Add coffee liqueur and Kim Crawford Pinot Noir. Stir until ingredients are hot. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla extract and ground cinnamon. Pour into pre-warmed mug and garnish with whole cinnamon stick and pinch of chili powder.

Ancient Lakes AVA: A Meeting of Mountains, Music and Merlot

Posted on by
Reply

Arriving in Seattle on an unusually clear day, we could see the majestic Mount Rainier through the airplane window, which we took as a good omen of the trip to come – our first foray into Central Washington and our maiden voyage in an RV.

Although the impetus for this visit to the Pacific Northwest was a two-day music festival at The Gorge Amphitheater, as wine lovers we could not resist the siren call of the local vinous culture and were excited about exploring this region along with immersing ourselves into the music.

We loaded up the vehicle with our possessions and hit the road, essentially heading due east. Our route took us through the Cascade Mountain range, which offers up beautiful views and is also responsible for keeping most moisture to the west. Consequently, Washington State’s eastern areas are sunny and dry (and well-suited to irrigated agriculture), while Seattle is steeped in foggy, wet weather.

Our final destination was in George, WA (someone had a sense of humor), but we found a welcoming oasis along Interstate 90 in Ellensburg. This small town (Population: 19,786) is home to Central Washington University and several wineries. We selected Brix Wine Bar as our early dinner option. Owned by Elevage Wine Co/Raised by Wolves, the restaurant lists several wines by the glass (or bottle), but doesn’t provide a tasting option. Surprisingly, they do have gluten-free pizza on the menu, which was quite delicious. We ordered one glass of Malbec and one of Cabernet Sauvignon, with a unanimous preference for the latter.

Thus, we added a bottle of the Cab Sav to our tab to enjoy later, before heading around the corner to Gard Vintners. Its Ellensburg tasting room is open late on Friday nights (4:00-9:00 PM) with the winery’s full range available for tastings as well as by the glass and by the bottle. Live music was a welcome treat as we sampled several different wines, under the tutelage of Riley, our tasting guide that evening. Founded in 2006, this family winery has garnered high scores from the wine media and it was easy to see why. We were wowed by the Roussanne, Vaucluse (a Rhone-style red blend of Syrah and Viognier) and their Provencal-style rosé and added these to our growing collection.

Before we headed out, Riley recommended visits to: Cave B Winery, Beaumont Cellars and Jones of Washington, all of which are in Quincy, WA and situated within the Ancient Lakes AVA.

Created in 2012, the Ancient Lakes AVA’s geology is the result of being carved out by ancient ice age floods, leaving behind 35 namesake lakes. It encompasses 1,600 planted acres with Riesling and Chardonnay as the most planted varieties due to the relatively northern latitude and cooler weather compared to other areas within Columbia Valley.

As a state, Washington ranks as the second largest premium producer of wine in the U.S. Grapes were planted as early as 1825, but today’s vineyards were more recently established during the 1970s. Currently, there are 900 wineries, spread out over 14 AVAs, with the majority (75%) of production centered on Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah. However, diversity does still exist with more than 40 different grapes grown within the state.

Beyond the Ancient Lakes AVA, the wider wine touring region is known as the Cascade Valley and North Central, which is situated between Seattle and Spokane. Within this area, there are 34 wineries or tasting rooms on the Cascade Valley & North Central map in Washington State Wine’s magazine, with another 21 listed in nearby Leavenworth and 7 in Wenatchee, providing tourists with plenty of places to taste.

After departing Gard Vintners, we arrived at The Gorge, queuing up behind a long line of fellow RVs. As we made our way, we were both welcomed and warned to adhere to the campground rules. First and foremost, we were admonished to have a fkin’ good time! In truth, the rules do forbid weapons, but, thankfully, alcohol is permissible (at least for the show we attended). Once in place in our assigned campsite, we unpacked our bags before setting off to explore the venue, then it was time for bed.

The next morning, well-fortified with a hearty breakfast of eggs, bacon and toast, we walked the two miles to Cave B Winery (Riley’s other suggestions were too far for a walk and getting the RV out of camp was just too difficult a proposition). Originally founded as Champs de Brionne by Dr. (a neurosurgeon) and Mrs. Bryan in 1980, Cave B Winery’s vast estate boasts 140 acres of vines comprised of 17 different varieties; orchards; a spa; a restaurant with stunning views of the Columbia River; and a myriad of lodging options, including yurts and cave rooms.

All of Cave B’s wines are produced with estate-grown fruit and a $10 tasting fee will get you a sample of 3 whites and 3 reds. While I liked all six wines, I was especially enamored with the Tempranillo. Among the whites, their off-dry Riesling stood out. Overall, this region and its wines were quite unfamiliar to me before our arrival, but I was impressed with what we tasted.

During Champs de Brionne’s early days, a natural bowl on the property was discovered to have near-perfect acoustics and the idea of a music venue was born as a way to draw people to the winery “in the middle of nowhere.” Before long, the popularity of these summer music began to grow, transforming the original concept from a small theater into the grander The Gorge Amphitheater, accompanied by the build out of a much larger stage and capacity for 20,000+ participants.

By 1993, the Bryans divested themselves of The Gorge Amphitheater and its campgrounds, but retained the vineyards and additional acreage. During this period, they continued to grow grapes, which they sold to other wine producers. But, in 2000, the couple was ready to re-enter winemaking with the creation of Cave B Winery, a smaller, premium winery. They added the inn and restaurant in 2005.

Given this history, it was fitting to have tasted at Cave B before heading back to our campsite for the main event: ABGT250.

DJs and musicians, Above & Beyond, comprise three London-based guys (Jono Grant, Tony McGuinness, and Paavo Siljamäki) who started making music together in 1999. They have cultivated a rabid following that spans the globe and inculcated a special ethos among them. They have also launched record labels Anjunabeats and Anjunadeep, giving a start to other EDM artists. Fans assert that their concerts are life-changing experiences after attending just a single one, so it is no surprise that their events are well attended.

Named for their podcast series, Above & Beyond Group Therapy (ABGT), their ABGT live events draw fans from around the globe. The group began doing live shows on the occasion of the 50th podcast (ABGT50), a tradition that has carried forward each year (coincident with the next 50th show). The first was held in London, followed by New York, Sydney, Amsterdam and now Washington State. Rumors have it that ABGT300 will be in Asia.

The festival itself kicked off with a free screening of Above & Beyond’s live filming of a recent performance on Friday night as a thank you to those who arrived early, but the main event took place on Saturday evening with a special set by Above & Beyond. The line-up included Luttrell, Yotto, Oliver Smith, Genix & Sunny Lax, a reprise from the headliners at 11:00 PM, accompanied by fireworks and glowing digital bracelets (from sponsor TMobile), before concluding with Seven Lions & Jason Ross.

Sunday’s daytime set was more mellow, with Above & Beyond’s music as the backdrop for a morning yoga practice and the use of the venue’s smaller stage. Highlights included Moon Boots, Eli & Fur, Jody Wisternoff & James Grant, 16 Bit Lolitas, and a joint return to the stage by Yotto and Luttrell at the end. A brief rain shower on Sunday evening did not seem to put a damper on anyone’s spirits, with music continuing long into the night, thanks to “pop-up” concerts embedded in the food court area and the campgrounds.

We were up early Monday morning ready to return to civilization, but would certainly consider the trip a success. Admittedly, it was an interesting combination of hobbies, but this meeting of mountains, music and Merlot was a perfect balance for us, as we navigated new adventures and divergent musical tastes. And, I didn’t hate the RV; it was definitely much more comfortable and luxurious that a tent would have been.

 

Terlato launches next chapter in Pinot Grigio story with Italy’s Simonit & Sirch

Posted on by
Reply

They wear plaid and are forced to check their pint-sized chainsaws in their luggage when they travel. They are the SVU – Special Vine Unit – not the investigators of crimes, but rather the investigators and proponents of healthy grapevines.

The Friuli-born Marco Simonit and Pierpaolo Sirch met in high school, having spent their childhoods running around their respective village farms, both clearly at home in the outdoors. After attending viticultural school, they worked at the Istituto Agrario, went on to other posts and then renewed their acquaintance several years later when they noted that what they had been taught in school wasn’t actually working in the vineyard.

The duo spent considerable time researching and observing what was going on and ultimately developed their trademarked Simonit & Sirch pruning strategies, which seek to promote sap flow and reduce pruning wounds (which are susceptible to disease).

Interestingly, in an age when the words “natural” and “organic” are bandied about as being superior, we tend to forget about the importance of the role of humans in the vineyard. Vineyard pruning practices have not been a major focus; however, as Simonit and Sirch discovered, these practices can limit the health and life expectancy of a vine.

Accordingly, their intervention techniques improve the overall health of the vine, eliminate potential weakness and, when necessary, they eradicate disease with the aforementioned mini-chainsaws. Further, their approach concentrates on saving prized, older vines, which have the capacity to extract the characteristics of the soil, as opposed to the more common alternative of grubbing up diseased vines and replacing them with new plants that will take years to develop quality grapes.

Now they have become celebrity pruners, traveling the globe to save the world’s greatest vineyards and preserve their longevity. As a result, they have a robust client roster that reads like a wine list at a Michelin-starred restaurant. Sometimes they can’t believe it themselves. When famed Sauternes producer, Chateau d’Yquem, came calling, they initially thought it was a prank call!

Several years ago, the pair were introduced to Bill Terlato through a mutual friend, kicking off what was to become a fruitful partnership. At the time, Terlato was ready to write the next chapter of his company’s Pinot Grigio story and was looking for great grapes.

Terlato’s father, Anthony Terlato, was responsible for launching the Santa Margherita brand in the U.S. back in the 1970s, but, despite the profitability of the lengthy Terlato-Santa Margherita partnership (now dissolved), Terlato had become disillusioned with the product. A victim of its own success, Terlato felt that the wine’s quality had diminished over time as quantity was increased to accommodate growing demand. He believes that a product becomes commercial, rather than artisanal, when you make hundreds of thousands of cases.

While the original intent was for Simonit & Sirch to simply supply the contacts for Terlato’s project, they saw the opportunity for their hometown region – Friuli’s Colli Orientali – to gain the global exposure they felt it deserved. Colli Orientali is known for crafting some of the best Pinot Grigio in the world, but, since the region is made up of many, small growers who produce many wines with limited production, it is very difficult for them to get traction in the market.

Thus, the viticulturists decided to participate as full collaborators with Terlato. They underscore that what makes this particular wine project different from others is that not only is the quality of the wine evident, but it is scalable. a situation which Terlato describes as “1 + 1 = 3; We [Terlato] bring the marketability on a global basis.”

Overall, the goal is to produce “Grand Cru quality” Pinot Grigio that is evocative of its place, with both character and ageability. Speaking highly of this much-maligned grape – thanks to the glut of insipid Pinot Grigio on lists and shelves – Simonit stresses that, as a relative of Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio has good genetics and has the capacity to produce excellent wines.

In general, the fruit is sourced and hand harvested at low yields from 20-to-40-year-old vines grown on marl and schist soils on hillside plots. Recognizing the subtle differences among various soil types and microclimates, grapes from different plots are vinified separately and then blended together to produce a balanced and complex wine. As Terlato explains, “We want something distinctive, with complexity, salinity, minerality and length.”

Vintage variation is evident and, while they hope Mother Nature will be kind to them each year, such variation is not discouraged or covered up. The first vintage of the project was 2014 (although they produced Friulano in 2013), which proved to be a challenging harvest. The 2015 vintage was more bountiful, permitting them to expand their reach, which they are growing cautiously, primarily targeting on-premise accounts.

Present production stands at 40,000 cases and Terlato believes that a maximum output of 150,000 cases is feasible before the quality is compromised – a far cry from the current Santa Margherita case production of 700,000 annually.

Time will tell how this newest Pinot Grigio chapter will end, but so far the wine has been well received in the market.