Category Archives: Lifestyle

Georgian culture, Chateau Buera and Gifts from God: An evening at Chama Mama

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While I have previously tasted and written about Georgian wine, it has been from a more clinical vantage point – tasting wines and taking notes at my own dining table or occasionally sampling one at an adventurous wine bar. However, it wasn’t until last week that I had a much more immersive experience with the wines, food and culture of Georgia, which was an absolute privilege and pleasure.

More specifically, in Georgian culture, guests are seen as a gift from God, which is exactly how I felt at a recent press dinner at the Brooklyn outpost of Chama Mama – a top Georgian restaurant with three locations in New York City.

Due to subway signal issues, I arrived slightly late, feeling a bit out of sorts and overwhelmed as I was introduced to a flurry of people and then further greeted a glass of wine: Chateau Buera Ojaleshi Rose 2021. But, within minutes, the group of us were easily comfortable with one another as we acknowledged both our differences and our shared roots of growing up in the Metro New York area.

Chama Mama’s Lasha Tsatava, wine director and Mariam Navdarashvili, chief marketing officer.

Presiding over the dinner were our hosts Nino Chiokadze, executive chef and Lasha Tsatava, wine director. We were also joined by Chama Mama’s chief marketing officer, Mariam Navdarashvili. While long on passion for Georgian wine, Lasha’s tenure in New York is limited to just a handful of weeks (although he has lived in the U.S. since 1998).

But, he is on a mission to share his love and passion for Georgian wine with the United States. In fact, he is so passionate about sharing these wines with the U.S. that he is co-founder with Erica Frey of the non-profit Saperica, whose “mission is to promote Saperavi and other Georgian grape varieties along with Georgian gastronomy and culture in the Finger Lakes, NY and around the U.S., by organizing and facilitating educational seminars and exchange programs between the regions, for wine and culinary professionals and enthusiasts.”

In fact, citing its incredibly long and rich vinous history (in 2017, conclusive evidence proved that Georgia was the birthplace of wines), Lasha was eager to share how Georgia and wine have been inextricably linked forever, which permeates throughout its culture and political history, a point he came back to on several occasions.

After our initial introductions, we gathered around the table to begin our feast, where we were greeted by a beautiful bowl of fresh, seasonal vegetables, including Persian cucumbers, brightly colored red radishes and other farm-fresh produce. From this first taste, our immersion into Georgian culture began.

Lasha explained that the seasoned salt found in a ramekin on the table was typical of NW Georgia, in the mountainous region of Georgia called Svaneti. Associated with the Argonauts and the Golden Fleece (thanks to its mention in Homer’s Odyssey), this area contains the most preserved culture of the country. Bringing together salt and a blend of spices, the mixture was delicious for dipping the aforementioned vegetables and simply enjoying them on their own.

Another important component of Georgian culture was the presence of bread (aka puri) on the table. Joining the vegetables and salt were simple mini baguettes and a flatter, pita-looking bread, both of which had been baked in a wood fired oven. We were encouraged to dip the bread in flavored sunflower oil, known as adjika. This spicy condiment was more flavor than heat and added a delicious dimension to enjoying the bread.

Appetites whetted, we turned our attention to the first course, which further showcased the season with a Spring herb salad, featuring aromatic, springtime tarragon in the dressing. This herby freshness paired beautifully with the white wine served alongside it: Chateau Buera Rkatsiteli 2022. This wine displayed lovely notes of citrus, hazelnut and salinity, with medium acidity, medium body and long length.

At this point, we were provided with a more formal introduction to our other (yet non-present) host of the evening – Château Buera. Buera is situated in Kakheti, an area that Lasha likened to the Napa Valley, and which represents 75% of the country’s plantings and 70% of its total wine production.

Château Buera was established in 2018 by Goga Maisuradze who is also the founder of Lopota Spa Resort and is responsible for spearheading tourism to the region. Here, the focus is on European wine making, while celebrating indigenous varieties (such as Rkatsiteli, Ojaleshi and Saperavi) and centuries-old winemaking. In this regard, Lasha described Buera as a modern, visionary producer and further shared that many of the wines had been aged, not just in oak, but also in clay vessels known as qvevri. Also important to note is that Chateau Buera utilizes sustainable agriculture practices in its vineyards and is in the process of obtaining BIO certification.

Equally important, as the meal progressed, we were given a glimpse into classic Georgian culture – the Supra, which is a feast hosted by a toastmaster, referred to as the Tamada. Clearly serving as our tamada, Lasha held his glass aloft and welcomed us to the table, noting our shared love of food, wine and travel, a very apropos toast and a lovely way to highlight how our shared experiences bring us all together.

Typically, these feasts feature immense tables heavily laden with food, dozens of people and toasts that last well into the night. Some of the extended nature of these events can be attributed to the Tamada’s nomination of an Alaverdi – someone nominated to elaborate on the toast. Fortunately, the nominations were limited and while our evening was no less memorable or special, it gratefully left us only tipsy and home before midnight.

Salad plates cleared, we were brought our second course, which consisted of a “Taste of Georgia,” starring four different pkhali (spreads)  – spinach, cabbage, beans and eggplant  – served alongside two different breads. These spreads are prepared with walnut paste and other seasonings such as garlic, cilantro and pomegranate. The bread options were the open faced, seasonal khachapuri, topped with fresh tarragon and basil and the imeruli khachpuri stuffed with farmers and other cheeses, which was reminiscent (to me) of a cheese borek.

Lasha suggested different combinations of the spreads with the bread options and added to the permutations by serving a trio of Amber wines. The Amber wine style is a category especially close to Lasha’s heart and one that they are actively building at the restaurant. While some people may be familiar with skin-contact, orange wines, they deliberately use the term Amber (instead of orange) as these are skin-contact wines that are specifically aged in clay qvevri.

Our flight consisted of an “Intro to Amber” wine, “Combo” and a “ ‘Full-On’ Amber”, denoting three different styles of these wines. Lasha explained that these wines provided a 3D experience with clay serving as a third dimension in addition to the more common use of stainless steel and oak.

Hailing from Western Georgia, the Intro wine (Tsolikouri Amber 2020, with one month of full skin-contact and six months in qvevri) offered up more fresh fruit with low tannins; more tannic than the Intro and with less fresh fruit character, the modern innovation Combo wine (Chateau Buera Qvevri Amber 2019) had been aged in oak. Finally, the “Full-On style (Pat’ra Marani Rkatsiteli 2021) was redolent of rich, dried fruit and was more overtly tannic on the palate. A similar Amber flight is always on offer at the restaurant as are ones featuring white wines, Saperavi wines and a trio of white, amber and red.

From breads and spreads, we shifted to heavier fare, with pork mtsvadi, pork skewers that had been marinated for at least 24 hours. The Chef further clarified that dried vine stems are used alongside the charcoal when cooking the meat. This course was served with the Château Buera Saperavi Reserve 2018, which had been aged in French oak for 12 months and then another 12 months in bottle, before release. This wine offered up beautiful notes of black cherry, chocolate and cocoa powder and toast, with good acidity, ripe tannins, full body and long length. 

The pork plate was followed by lamb chops similarly marinated for a lengthy period of time and also sprinkled with pomegranates, adding sweetness and tartness in contrast to the meaty flavors. The chops were accompanied by the Dekanozishvili Dry Red 2017, a blend of 70% Saperavi, 20% Otskhanuri Sapere and 10% Shavkapito. The wine had been fermented in both qvevri and oak, aged in oak barrel for 18 months and had also been produced using the appassimento method of drying out the grapes over a period of months to naturally reduce their water content and thereby increase the concentration of flavors. At seven years of age, this showed some development on the nose and palate with aromas of smoke, toast, forest floor and black fruit. It was intense with heady flavors, culminating in very long length.

Nearly sated with food and drink, we were presented with one last course: Pelamushi, which is a “traditional Georgian sweet grape pudding topped with glazed walnuts”. To produce this dish, grape juice retained from during harvest is significantly reduced to concentrate the flavors and cooked with flour to produce a gelatinous, yet tasty, dessert. The course was paired with the Royal Khvanchkara Khvanchkara Red Semi-sweet 2018, from NW Georgia featuring a blend of the Alexandrouli and Mujeruli grapes.

As we lingered at the table a little longer, Lasha insisted upon us tasting a little Chacha, Georgian distilled beverage produced similarly to Grappa, produced from the Rkatsiteli grape and “blended with glacier-based water from the Caucasus mountains, aged in qvevri (handcrafted clay vessel) for 3-4 month and charcoal filtered before bottling”. It was very smooth, balanced and a refreshing palate cleanser.

We had finally come to the end of our evening and reluctantly bid our hosts farewell. We might not have quite become friends, but we certainly left feeling more connected, having shared a very special experience that truly immersed us in the ways of Georgian wine and food. Whether or not guests are seen as gifts from God, having been a part of this magical evening was truly a gift! 

LIST of WINES TASTED

  • Chateau Buera Ojaleshi Rose 2021, Lechkhumi, Georgia
  • Chateau Buera Rkatsiteli 2022, Khakheti, Georgia
  • Tsolikouri Amber 2020, Georgia
  • Chateau Buera Qvevri Amber 2019, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Pat’ra Marani Rkatsiteli 2021, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Chateau Buera Saperavi Reserve 2018, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Dekanozishvili Dry Red 2017, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Royal Khvanchkara Khvanchkara Red Semi-sweet 2018, Racha, Georgia
  • AMBE wine spirit from Rkatsiteli grapes

Making Merry Memories with Merry Edwards wines

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I’ve been in a different phase of my life right now, particularly marked by a shift toward drinking much less frequently and with much more intention. In this regard, I kicked off 2024 with what I referred to as “not quite a dry month, but definitely less of the hurricane that was December 2023”. As I have cut back my consumption, I have also sought out higher end wines that bring me much pleasure and savor them all the more as I am being more present and mindful of what’s in my glass.

I am also dealing with a breakup that has hit me really hard. I know that I will survive and come out the other side of this much stronger, but it has been challenging, especially since my last breakup was so long ago that I had forgotten how much it hurts. Moreover, while my consumption of Merry Edwards wines was never solely connected to my ex, we did enjoy a number of bottles together and the Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc was one of his favorites well before he met me, so drinking these wines is somewhat of a reminder of what was and will no longer be. A bittersweet note for sure, but, thankfully, not sufficient to keep me from enjoying them.

With these two influences on my drinking habits, I have been seeking out different ways to indulge in wine than I had done so previously. What this has meant has been a shift away from opening up a bottle of wine just to have a glass (although there is certainly nothing wrong with that) and more frequently, choosing, instead, to share it with dear friends or at least make it the centerpiece of a meal. And, in doing so, it has been a joy to open up and share the beauty and  magic of Merry Edwards wines over the course of several months.

The world is also shifting, with both physical and metaphorical upheaval. Is it any wonder we are besieged by earthquakes and eclipses? In early April, we turned our attention skyward as the sun and moon chased each other across the celestial sky. While many were blasé about the event, others flocked to places near and far in search of totality. What is totality? It is “the whole of something” – a state of completeness. To a certain extent, we are all in search of that, whether we look upwards or inward.

Our friends at Merry Edwards were equally enamored with the eclipse, which coincided with the release of their Cuvée Eclipse Sparkling Wine. Not just labeled with this astronomical event, the grapes for this wine were harvested on August 21, 2017, the date of the last total solar eclipse visible from North America. Sourced from the Richaven Pinot Noir Vineyard at Merry’s home, this wine was aged for six years on the lees, and launched into the world just in time to enjoy with the most recent one.

I admittedly forgot about opening this wine to celebrate the eclipse (see aforementioned break up), but was thrilled to spread the sparkle with my dear friend, Gisela, when she joined me for dinner one night. It was absolutely stunning both visually and on the palate, with a lovely salmon color, tiny bead, complex aromas of cherry, citrus, yeastiness and nuttiness, all of which persist on the palate, with a creamy mousse and extremely long length.

For my husband’s birthday, we opened up the 2022 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc, always a family favorite and a beautiful example of this herbal grape variety. Having undergone barrel fermentation and lees-stirring, the wine has nice weight to it on the palate. More specifically, the wine offered up bright acidity, aromas and flavors of citrus and tropical fruit, floral notes and a touch of herbaceous character, culminating with long length.

The Olivet Lane Chardonnay 2021 was a welcome way to celebrate the end of a stressful work week and usher in a quiet weekend. As one of the oldest existing vineyards in the Russian River Valley appellation, this vineyard is considered to be a heritage property and has long been known as a producer of exceptional Chardonnay. Redolent of nuts, butterscotch, minerality and vibrant citrus aromas and flavors, this full-bodied wine offers up medium-to-high acidity and very long length.

Earlier on in the year, a cold, Sunday night in January found me enjoying the Merry Edwards Pinot Noir 2021, which displayed tart cherry, coffee and violet aromas, all of which persisted on the palate. With good acidity, medium body and long length, it was a wonderful accompaniment to my home cooked dinner.

More recently, we hosted an impromptu dinner party with our neighbors, Temple and Derek. What was supposed to be girls’ night out for drinks in the neighborhood, was amended to drinks in our apartment, thanks to very wet weather. When Temple and I realized that both of our spouses were also home, we eagerly engaged them in our plans, dashed back and forth between the apartments to gather the makings of our feast, and broke out the Meredith Estate Pinot Noir 2021, which was welcomed by all in attendance. While the Meredith Estate vineyard has always been farmed sustainably, it is now being farmed organically. It offered up deep plum, forest floor, floral, fresh berry and cherry aromas and flavors with medium body, bright acidity and very long length.

And, just a few days ago, a date night at home was the perfect reason to open up the Richaven Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021. This is Merry Edwards’ newest offering, sourced from the eponymous vineyard “located on Merry Edwards’ personal home ranch”. It was a true delight with meaty, dark cherry, plum and cocoa notes; firm, dusty tannins; medium acidity; full body; and very long length.

While I am still finding my footing in this post-break up world, I am surrounding myself more often with friends and family. It has certainly not been a total eclipse of my heart, as it is still open to love and pleasures of the world, especially those of the vinous variety. May you find your own footing in this weird world and may you always have something delicious in your glass. Salut!

LIST of WINES TASTED

  • Cuvée Eclipse Sparkling Wine 2017, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $100.00
  • Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $48.00
  • Olivet Lane Chardonnay 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00
  • Pinot Noir 2021, Sonoma Coast (CA), USA, $60.00
  • Meredith Estate Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $90.00
  • Richaven Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00

The wonderful wines from Gonzalez Byass USA

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Based in Jerez de la Frontera, the González Byass company dates to 1835 and is a family-owned collection of highly respected wineries in Spain. Notably, its collection includes Bodegas Beronia (producing wine in both Rioja and Rueda), Dominio Fournier (Ribera del Duero producer), Cavas Vilarnau (Cava producer), Finca Constancia (producer of wines in Vino de la Tierra de Castilla), Finca Moncloa (based in Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz), Viñas del Vero (Somontano producer) and Pazos de Lusco (Rías Baixas wines).

Stateside, its U.S. subsidiary, González Byass USA, is an importer of these and other fine wines and spirits.

A recent event brought together a group of wine media professionals to Tasca a Spanish Caribbean restaurant on Manhattan’s Upper West Side to taste through numerous wines in the portfolio alongside tasty bites. According to Professor Henry Higgins, “The rain in Spain falls mostly on the plain…,” but the on the night in question, it was wet and cold. Thankfully, the event itself was warm and inviting, with an opportunity to meet new people and reconnect with colleagues over good wine and food.

More specifically, the evening was an informal celebration of the elegance and food friendly nature of these wines as we sipped and savored the wonderful wines and delicious cuisine. Overall, it was an important reminder to seek out Spanish wines given their quality and diversity and, in particular, to drink sherry and vermouth, which are less trendy, but deserve to be drunk more often.

We kicked off the tasting with a selection of charcuterie and small bites, served with Tio Pepe Fino (sherry) NV, La Copa Gonzalez Byass’s Vermut (vermouth) Extra Seco and Vilarnau Brrut Nature 2017 Cava. As we whetted our appetite with the aperitifs and appetizers, we turned our attention to a lovely Albarino (2022 vintage) from Pazos de Lusco from Rias Baixas.

An assortment of reds was on offer as well including Beronia’s Rioja Vareira 2019, Rioja Reserva 2018 and Beronia’s Graciano 2017 (Graciano is one of the permitted grapes in Rioja, but which is less frequently made into a single variety wine) as well as a Ribero del Duero 2019 from Dominio Fournier. To accompany the array of decadent desserts, we enjoyed an aged sherry, the Gonzalez Byass Apostoles 30 Year Sherry, which paired beautifully with all four, but especially the flan and the banana bread.

As we departed the restaurant and headed for home, we were well sated with great company, an exquisite meal and… a lull in the rain. A convivial evening indeed!

NB: Given the informality and conviviality of the event, I neglected to take notes, but to learn more about some of these wines, I invite you to check out the related, previous stories included below the photo gallery.

(Retail pricing is listed below.)

  • Vilarnau Brut Nature 2017: $20.99
  • La Copa Vermut Extra Seco: $24.99
  • Tio Pepe Fino NV: $19.99
  • Pazo de Lusco 2022: $24.99
  • Beronia Reserva 2018: $24.99
  • Dominio Fournier 2019: $29.99
  • Beronia Graciano 2017: $29.99
  • Beronia Vareia 2019: $79.99
  • Gonzalez Byass Apostoles: $49.99
  • Gonzalez Byass Matusalem: $49.99 (not tasted, but also present at the event)
Tio Pepe proves that its Sherry is up to the challenge
The Sheer Perfection of Sherry
Stop and smell the La Copa! Gonzalez-Byass releases two Vermouth options
At Bodegas Beronia, It’s All About that Barrel
Beronia Offers Up Perfect Picnic-sized Wine
All I want for Christmas: Things that sparkle


 

The More the Merrier with Merry Edwards Wines

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Each year, I have the good fortune to hear from the PR person who represents Merry Edwards Winery offering me the opportunity to taste through the current selection of releases. And, every year, I gratefully accept and yet somehow take months to drink through the wines. I am a diligent and dependable person who meets deadlines at the office and yet these bottles linger in my wine cellar for months. Case in point, I received this latest set of wines in late May and yet here it is mid-September and I have only just finished tasting the last of the wines this week. Why?

Why indeed? I gave this quite some thought as the item to taste (and then write) about these wines languished on my “to do” list month after month.

Well, for one thing, I generally prefer to taste these wines alongside a lovely meal, share them with friends and family or both. These are special wines that I truly enjoy drinking with good company, eager to give others the opportunity to taste them as well. In this regard, I sometimes wait for the “perfect” dinner or the “special” occasion rather than just opening them up on a random Tuesday with leftovers. And, while there is nothing wrong with this in theory, in practice it means that lots of time lapses in between tastings.

Recognizing this propensity in myself, I chose to adopt a different philosophy over the past two weeks. We are likely all familiar with the phrase “Life’s too short to drink bad wine,” but it is true in that life is too short… period. End of sentence. We should celebrate the time we have and enjoy it to the best of our abilities. For some (myself included), the price point on these wines means that you can only indulge in them occasionally, but really, while these are, indeed, special wines, they don’t require a special occasion or the perfect moment to drink them. Thus, in accordance with this new approach, I changed tactics and drank the last three bottles in close proximity to each other. I was now done with tasting and could move on to writing. 

In this regard, I often write about the climate and soil of the vineyards where the grapes for these wines are grown (see here for previous stories), which is relevant given that five of the wines below are of the same grape variety and it is their distinct environment that sets them apart from one another and accounts for many of the differences among them. But, at the end of the day, it is what the wine tastes like in your glass that has the most meaning, irrespective of microclimates and soil types.

Thus, what is perhaps more important to you, the reader, is identifying the style of the resulting wine and equally critical, the set and setting in which one drinks it. We all have preferences for different styles of wine, all of which are valid. Taking time to savor the aromas and flavors, seeing how the wine develops in the glass over the course of one’s meal and simply being in a great frame of mind — whether alone or joined by others — all contribute to our enjoyment, much more so than the formality of the meal or day of the week.

So, here are my tasting notes for each of these wines, along with the set and setting (to the best of my recollection as I wasn’t planning on including that information). I hope you will find a style that appeals to your palate and seek it out to sip and savor as we celebrate this thing called life!

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc
2021, Sonoma County (CA), USA, $48.00
Complex aromas of herbs, smoke, citrus/tangerine greet the nose and persist on the palate with vibrant acidity, medium+ body and long length. I opened up this bottle with dinner featuring tuna steaks on Monday, July 3 (the eve of the July 4th holiday) to celebrate the deep bonds of friendship that my husband and I share with our dear friend Gisela, all of whom greatly appreciated this wonderful wine.

Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $75.00
Redolent of ripe, dark cherries, herbs, cocoa and a hint of leather, this rich and robust wine was dry on the palate with bright acidity, medium+ body and very long length. My friend Rob and I spent the weekend of June 30-July 2 at the Riverwind Inn B&B in Deep River, CT and opened up this bottle to toast our weekend away, sitting on balcony and taking in the view of the property’s gardens.

Merry Edwards Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $65.00
Very herbal in character, this wine offers up plum and cherries, with notes of both fresh and dried herbs. The dry palate had medium acidity, medium+ body, noticeable yet ripe tannins and long length. While not deliberately opened up in honor of Bastille Day, I did enjoy this wine with dinner with my husband on Friday, July 14. I don’t recall what we ate, but we definitely loved the wine!

Merry Edwards Georganne Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $70.00
This wine was more fruit driven than the others, but was still quite elegant, with dark cherry aromas and flavors and a slight earthy character. The palate displayed bright acidity, medium+ body and dusty tannins, culminating in long length. I shared this wine on Saturday, September 9 with my aforementioned friend, Rob, at his home in Stamford, CT where we collaborated on creating a delicious lentil and sweet potato dish from the New York Times (find the recipe online here). NB: Dish is pictured above.

Merry Edwards Coopersmith Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $70.00
This wine displayed floral aromas along with red and black cherries and berries on the nose and palate. It had good acidity, with medium body and long length. As a quiet moment before the hustle and bustle of the week ahead, my husband and I shared this bottle of wine over dinner (pasta with pesto sauce and parmesan cheese) on Sunday, September 10.

Merry Edwards Dach Pinot Noir 2021, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $75.00
The most structured of the bunch, this wine provided a variety of aromas and flavors including herbs, dark red fruit and earth, with an herbal undercurrent. It had firm tannins, full body and long length on the dry, vibrant palate. While my husband was away for the weekend,
on Friday, September 15, I celebrated the end of my work week with dinner on my own, which consisted of yummy pork chops wrapped in bacon and rosemary and this beautiful wine. Then I continued to enjoy the wine as I binge-watched Glow Up on Netflix.

Giving Thanks for the Magic of Merry Edwards Wines

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Happy November! Thanksgiving is around the corner, which means that you are likely busy planning holiday menus and wondering what wines should grace your table.

For the past several years, I have had the great pleasure of having at least one bottle of Merry Edwards wines paired with my Thanksgiving meal (see especially this post). In fact, I am very grateful to have been able to sample these wines since 2020. They have been a bright spot in what has been a challenging period for us all.

This year (thankfully) is no exception. Yet, rather than wait to taste my final bottle to share my tasting notes with you, I wanted to post this now to encourage you to take advantage of this special offering to ensure that you, too, can enjoy a bottle (or more) of Merry Edwards as part of your festivities.

SPECIAL THANKSGIVING SET

The folks at Merry Edwards have curated a special Thanksgiving set of wines featuring one bottle each of:
–  2020 Olivet Lane Chardonnay*
–  2020 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir*
–  2020 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir*

The wines also include a wooden etched logo box, making it a very gift-worthy option. 

Note: There are a limited number of Thanksgiving Sets available, so don’t delay if you feel the pull. Plus, the shipping deadline for guaranteed Thanksgiving delivery is: Friday, November 11th.  
–>To purchase, visit their website or call the winery at: 888-388-9050.

Of course, any of the Merry Edward wines would be a great addition to your table now and throughout the year and are perfect gifting wines as well.

*Tasting notes for the Pinot Noirs are included below as is my tasting note for a previous vintage of the Olivet Lane Chardonnay.

TASTING NOTES

Merry Edwards 2019 Olivet Lane Chardonnay, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00
Aromas of butter and smoke greet the nose and persist on the elegant palate, with apple and citrus flavors, good acidity, medium+ body and very long length.
NB: The offer above includes the 2020 vintage; this note is for the 2019 vintage.

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00
This continues to be a favorite Sauvignon Blanc of mine. The wine is fresh, with a pronounced nose of ripe citrus and tropical fruit aromas. The palate is dry, with ripe citrus fruit on the attack, bright acidity, medium+ body, and long length. Overall, it is mouth filling and delicious.

Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2020, Sonoma County (CA), USA, $48.00
From the larger Sonoma Coast AVA, this wine is sourced from grapes that are grown in the cool, coastal climate. The nose and palate are redolent of fresh and dried herbs, with dark cherry aromas and flavors. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, soft, ripe tannins, culminating in long length.

Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2020, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $58.00
From Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, which is situated further inland, these vineyards are warmer than the coast, but still influenced by the fog, maintaining good acidity levels and freshness in the grapes. Concentrated, with ripe, dark cherry fruit, and notes of earth, pomegranate, and a hint of coffee. The wine is layered and complex, with bright acidity and nice length on the palate.

Merry Edwards Meredith Estate Pinot Noir 2020, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00
Selfishly, I am going to save this to enjoy for Thanksgiving 2022 and will include my tasting note after the holiday.

However, here is my note from the 2018 vintage of this same wine:

Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $72.00
With 20 planted acres, the Meredith Estate vineyard is one of the larger single-vineyard productions from Merry Edwards. This abandoned apple orchard in the Sebastopol Hills was purchased by Merry in 1996 and planted to Pinot in 1998. They practice sustainable agriculture, with the use of cover crops and other earth-friendly farming approaches.
Red and black cherries feature prominently on the nose, with cherry and berry fruit, along with notes of wet leaves and an herbal undercurrent. The dry palate provides a decidedly savory note, with medium+ body, high acidity and very long length.

Where in the world is Washington wine?

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While many people are familiar with California wine, Washington wine might be a new discovery. Moreover, for those that do know that Washington State makes wine, they are likely thinking of damp, rainy Seattle. But, that’s not the real story. Rather, the majority of Washington grapes are grown east of the Cascade Mountains. What that means is that the cold, wet weather we associate with Seattle stays on the West Coast while the state’s interior provides desert-like conditions. In many cases, grape growing is made possible here due to irrigation. There is also a blend of wide, open land, mountains and hence, altitude, all of which impact the climate and growing conditions of these grapes.

Thanks to this climate, this is Cabernet and Syrah country, not Pinot Noir territory, which is a grape more appropriately correlated with Oregon. Consequently, while only three hours away from Seattle, Washington wine is truly a world away from one’s initial conception. Yet, as I recently discovered, there are many opportunities to become acquainted with these wines without having to travel too far.

Moreover, this is an exciting time for the state and its wines as it stands on a precipice for even further greatness. These are well made, balanced wines, representing good value, diversity and innovation. As I spent three days immersed in Washington wine, I grew more and more bullish about what is to come and treasured the interactions with the passionate people who are behind these amazing wines.

The Washington wine industry is definitely one to watch and I strongly recommend seeking these wines out if and when you have the opportunity. Admittedly, many of these wines never make it beyond the confines of the state, but if you find them at a retailer or restaurant near you, I highly encourage you to check them out.

Further, you can create an exciting, wine-oriented weekend (or longer) with visits to Woodinville or even Seattle, without the lengthier drive to the Columbia Valley and beyond.

Where to weekend:  The Wonders of Woodinville

Situated 25 miles northeast of Seattle, Woodinville, WA was initially home to a logging industry which was then replaced by agriculture. Yet, today, none of that remains and, instead, the area has been thoroughly converted into the epicenter of Washington wine.

With its tagline, “Where Washington pours,” Woodinville is home to 120 wine tasting rooms representing 19 of 20 AVAs (American Viticultural Areas), 10 breweries and five distilleries. Sixty of those wineries actually produce wine in the Woodinville area while the remainder have their winemaking facilities elsewhere.

What makes Woodinville particularly unique is that it makes the wineries accessible to tourists who might be visiting Seattle for a short period of time such as on a business trip or before or after a cruise. This is a perfect foray into Washington wine with a plethora of tasting rooms and restaurants from which to choose.  There is an incredible focus on hospitality and each tasting room has its own unique approach to serving guests, but all are excited to welcome you to taste their wines and enjoy the experience.

Woodinville got its start as a wine-centric town in 1976, when Chateau Ste Michelle established it’s beautiful French-style chateau winery building, vineyards and winemaking facilities there. It took some time for the area to catch on, but it is now in the midst of significant growth and expansion, yielding even more opportunities for people to learn about Washington wine and other state-centric products.

Within the town borders there are four main districts, each with its own personality and focus. Established about 15 years ago, the Warehouse District has become an incubator for up-and-coming producers and small batch productions. This is often a place for hobbyists to get their start. In contrast, the West Valley District has become more industrial and is home to the majority of distilleries and breweries.

Named for an old schoolhouse, which presently serves as the tasting room for Maryhill Winery, the Hollywood Hills District caters to tourism and will soon be home to a 22-acre project in development which will include a 128-room hotel called Somm, under Marriott’s Autograph Collection. The property will also include event space, dining facilities and a custom blending operation. This accommodation will join the existing boutique Willows Lodge, with its Barking Frog restaurant and luxury spa.

Hollywood Hills is also home to Patterson Cellars*, Gorman Winery*, Sparkman Cellars* and DeLillle Winery*, the latter of which launched a full-service, wine-centric restaurant, The Lounge, in 2021.

Most notably, the Downtown District has seen incredible investment in retail and residential real estate. In particular, the area has seen the building of 1,599 new housing units, including high-end apartments and single-family residences, which appeal to both retirees and young, tech folks. With close proximity to Redmond, Bellevue, Tacoma and Seattle (and thus the headquarters for Microsoft, Space X, Amazon, Costco and more), as well as skiing and other activities, there are many people interested in moving in. There are number of new tasting rooms here, too, such as the brand-new outpost for Rocky Pond Estate Winery.*

The job of shepherding and spearheading promotion of the area falls to Woodinville
Wine Country and during my visit, I had the wonderful opportunity to meet Adam Acampora, who joined the organization earlier this year as Executive Director. His background is both on target and unusual coming from Tennessee where he ran the state wine program there, not a place most frequently associated with wine. But he is well versed in wine, marketing and hospitality and is well poised to lead the renaissance well underway.

As new restaurants (such as the newly opened Walla Walla Steak Co.*), wineries (L’Ecole 41* coming soon) and hotels continue to make the move to Woodinville, the town will become an even bigger draw for residents and tourists alike. This is truly a wonderful, weekend getaway to immerse yourself in Washington wine.

Where to weekend: Seattle Sips

If you are more pressed for time or simply don’t want to leave the confines of Seattle proper, you still have tasting options. First and foremost, most Seattle-area restaurants feature Washington wines on their menus, both by the glass and bottle. In particular, check out Purple Café, with locations in both downtown Seattle and Woodinville.

The historic Pioneer Square area counts itself as Seattle’s first neighborhood, incorporated in 1869. The area is currently home to two tasting rooms: Four Eleven Wine and Browne Family Vineyards.

The Four Eleven Wine lounge is collaboration between Bledsoe Family Winery* and Gramercy Cellars*, both of the Walla Walla Valley, who looked to find a shared tasting room on the West side of Washington State. The result is Four Eleven Wine.   Open daily, the space offers a traditional tasting room experience until 5:00pm and wine seminars on Tuesday evenings, along with a wine bar and full retail selection of local and international wine selections.

Two doors down, situated in the 1906 Sellar Building, designed by architect A. Warren Gould, Brown Family Vineyards* opened their Seattle tasting room in 2017. The winery was inspired and named for William Bitner Browne, the late grandfather of proprietor Andrew Browne. The tasting room offers various tasting flights and is also available for private parties and events.

Just steps from Pike Place Market, The Tasting Room offers a selection of wines from winemaker owned wineries in the state. On any given day, over 60 different wines are available to taste in flights (four one-ounce pours) or by the glass. Open daily, with live music on Friday nights.

And, if you didn’t get enough wine while in Woodinville or in town, there’s always a final hurrah at the airport. Located in the Central Terminal and open daily 12pm – 9pm, Vyne Washington Tasting Room exclusively serves Washington state wines and was awarded “Best New Food and Beverage” full-service concept by the Airports Council International – North America.

Where in the world is Washington wine? It’s at the top of its game and hopefully in your glass. Now you just have to start planning your weekends away!

*NB: More to come in a future story or stories on these wineries and restaurants.

Summer Sips 2022, What Wines to Drink Now

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Happy Summer! It’s that time of the year when I finally venture outdoors and partake in my favorite pastime – picnics! While I got off to a good start, it’s been a bit quiet lately, but I am looking forward to the holiday weekend to make up for lost time. Regardless, I am super excited about some of my newfound picnic discoveries.

We kicked off the summer season in late April (yes, it is a stretch and it was especially windy on the date in question, but anyway …) with Bisol’s anniversary celebration. This historic Prosecco Superiore producer (see previous stories on Prosecco Superiore here) dates from 1542 and has a member of the 21st generation, Gianluca Bisol, at its helm. The event was held at the Lemon Rooftop in NYC’s Hudson Yards, with its spectacular views of the Hudson River. With free-flowing sparkling wine, guests were provided with the wonderful opportunity to taste through a selection of their Proseccos including:
*Bisol Crede, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
*Jeio Brut, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
*Jeio Prosecco Rosé DOC
NB: Rosé has only recently been approved to be included in the Prosecco DOC and is not permitted for the DOCG.

While you can enjoy these wines anytime of year, the effervescent nature of the wines and celebratory nature of the event, with its great music, good food and delicious wines, were a festive reminder that summer and lighter times were just around the corner.

I am also a bit in love with wines in can from Domaine Bousquet (which I’ve written about previously), which are perfect for their portion control and portability. These lightweight, aluminum cans of 100% certified organic wine are a great option for picnics, beaches that permit alcohol and any other outdoor activities where food and wine are welcome. Plus, they cool quickly and add a lovely flair to your al fresco meals with their food friendly nature and freshness.

A blend of Pinot Noir, Syrah, Pinot Gris and Viognier, Le Petit Verre Bubbly Rosé is slightly effervescent, and offers up lovely citrus and berry notes, with bright acidity on the dry and balanced palate, with long length.

The Le Petit Verre Malbec delivers ripe black fruit aromas and flavors, with good acidity and some complexity, culminating in long length. It was a perfect foil for my BBQ burger craving over Memorial Day Weekend.

These Argentine wines hail from Tupungato,vineyards in the Mendoza region. At an SRP of $13.00 for a four-pack, each 250-ml can provides approximately a glass and a half of wine, at roughly $3.50 per can.

And finally, it was a pleasure to taste two wines from Monte Velho, which provided yet another reminder that Portuguese wines provide great value and great taste. These wines are produced in the Alentejo region and are wonderful examples of indigenous Portuguese varieties. Here, blending has a long history, but today’s wineries are bringing a more modern approach with the deliberate planting of varieties in specific vineyards, rather than relying on the field blends of yesteryear.

A blend of Antão Vaz, Perrum, and Roupeiro, the Monte Velho White 2021 is clean and fresh with medium to full body, with good concentration of ripe white fruits and citrus on the dry palate, with briny minerality and long length.

The Monte Velho Rosé 2021 brings together Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Syrah, Trincadeira and Tinta Caiada, and Arinto, yielding a wine with fresh strawberry and raspberry notes, and a hint of herbaceousness. With medium acidity, medium body and long length, this dry wine was both refreshing and food friendly.

Both wines retail at $12.00/bottle and are certified vegan by the European Vegetarian Union. Moreover, they are shipped in eco-friendly packaging with lighter-weight bottles and 100% varnish-free, recycled cardboard.

I hope these wines inspire your own al fresco dining this summer season!

Dining at Home: Elevating Mundane Mondays with Fine Wine

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Having arrived at the 2nd anniversary of Covid’s official designation as a global pandemic, the world is slowly returning to a pre-pandemic normal. Yet, in many ways, the world has significantly changed and the way we live is not necessarily the same normal we used to know.

For many, the realities of inflation are further hampering their ability to dine out as before, especially as restaurants try to make up for lost time, lost patrons and lost income. Plus, understandably some people are still wary of dining indoors or being out in big crowds.

In light of these social and economic changes, the way we socialize is in flux. Yet, the need for human connection has never been greater. But staying in to save money and maintain safety doesn’t have to impede one’s plans. Dining at home easily puts the emphasis on what’s important: enjoying quality time with friends and loved ones. Moreover, it is easier and less expensive than finding a mutually agreeable restaurant.

In this vein, I have been returning to hosting people in our apartment much more frequently these days, but in different ways than before. Given this shift, I have been desiring to entertain more lavishly when it comes to cuisine, cocktails and wines. Thus, we are following suit by cooking more elaborate meals and upgrading our wine choices.

As of late, we are inviting couples and small groups for dinner, both on weeknights and weekends, as a way to renew acquaintances, reconnect and recharge. One Monday night, neighborhood friends joined us for a casual dinner of paprika chicken and butternut squash, which was easily enlivened with the Biserno Insoglio del Cinghiale. Similarly, a cold, snowy Saturday was the perfect excuse to skip a walk in the wet weather and host a friend for charcuterie, cheeses and olives in my apartment and break open the Nardi Brunello. And, a Chianti Classico Riserva is always a welcome addition to one’s table.

Your guests certainly won’t complain about being served higher end wines with more complexity and concentration. Such selections can take a mundane Monday and elevate the occasion with the simple twist of a cork.

>>Read on for tasting notes and information on the properties.

TASTING NOTES

Tenuta di Nozzole 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, Italy, $24.99
Owned by the Folonari family, which has been in the winemaking industry since the 1700s, Tenuta di Nozzole was purchased in 1971, with vineyards dating 700 years.
This wine is produced solely from Sangiovese grapes and then spends 24 months in oak barrels with another 3 months in bottle before being released. The extra ageing earns this wine its Riserva designation and adds to the depth and development of the resulting wine.  

Aromas of red cherry, black cherry, slight oak and wood greet the nose. The dry palate has high acidity, medium+ body and ripe, resolved tannins. It displays more secondary characteristics than primary fruit flavors, culminating in long length.

Tenuta di Biserno 2019 Insoglio del Cinghiale, Tuscany, Italy, $42.99
The Tenuta di Biserno property stems from a partnership between Marchese Lodovico Antinori, creator of Italian legends Ornellaia and Masseto, and his brother Marchese Piero Antinori, President of acclaimed Antinori Wines, in collaboration with legendary Oenologist, Michel Rolland. Situated in the Upper Maremma, the vineyards are home to a unique microclimate, which the collaborators felt well suited to Cabernet Franc, which is less common in the region. This particular wine is an interesting blend of 33% Syrah, 33% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot.

With notes of smoke, oak, blackberry and earth, the beautifully balanced wine offers up good acidity, full body and ripe tannins. The dry, complex palate shows flavors of blackberry, smoke, a hint of raisin, and earth, along with long length.

Tenute Silvio Nardi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $83.00
Founded by Silvio Nardi who purchased Casale del Bosco estate in 1950 and became a leader in the establishment of the Brunello di Montalcino denomination, Tenuta Silvio Nardi has become a highly regarded producer of these wines. Today, Silvio’s youngest daughter, Emilia Nardi, is at the helm of the winery, working in consultation with enologist Eric Boissenot, one of the world’s top ten winemaking consultants. As a Brunello, this wine is made entirely of Sangiovese and, as per law, is aged for 30 months in wood barrels and 12 months in bottle.  

On the nose, this wine displays notes of ripe cherries, oak, and a slight leafy note. The dry, full-bodied palate has bright acidity, with rich, concentrated fruit of cherry and berry, along with a hint of oak and very long length. It is still quite tannic and needs time In bottle to develop.

Beronia Offers Up Perfect Picnic-sized Wine

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For most of us, this moment marks an anniversary of sorts as we acknowledge that one year ago, we were put on lockdown and admonished to stay home and stay distant.

But, as we welcomed in the Spring Equinox and the increase in daylight and warmth that it brings, many of us found ourselves reveling in the outdoors as a way to stay sane and connected with friends and loved ones.

In fact, as a self-proclaimed Picnic Princess (hey, don’t judge, if Elon Musk can call himself TechnoKing…), I held my first pandemic picnic on March 27, 2020, which was followed by many more over the next half year. Of course, nearly all of these picnics involved wine (and admittedly some were solely about wine), which I was happy to share with friends.

However, if your friends and family don’t have the same taste in wine as you or abstain from alcohol or you simply want your own single-serve bottle, the folks at Beronia have got you covered this season.

Bodegas Beronia, a highly regarded wine producer in Rioja, Spain, was founded in 1973 by a group of friends (see article) and has always been about a love for gastronomy and companionship – two very important ingredients for a great picnic!

In recognition of the way the world is right now, Beronia has just released its Crianza 2017 in a 375ml bottle for the very first time. This half-size container of wine is a great option for picnics, but also works just as well indoors at the dining table when you drink alone or want to drink less. Of course, they also produce the wine in its regular 750ml bottle for when you want to share it with others.

Bodegas Beronia Crianza 2017, Rioja, Spain,
SRP: $7.99 (375ml); $14.99 (750ml)
A blend of 94% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha and 1% Mazuelo, this wine offers up aromas of black fruit, strawberry, a hint of oak and leafiness. The dry palate presents juicy, ripe strawberry fruit with medium+ acidity, medium body and long length.

Chenin Blanc: A Grand Grape from the Loire Valley

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The Loire Valley is home to grand chateaux and the equally grand, but, perhaps, lesser known grape variety, Chenin Blanc. Discovered between the 10th and 15th centuries, Chenin Blanc has a lengthy history in the Loire Valley, with its name supposedly derived from the monastery of Mont-Chenin near Cormery in Touraine.  

Although Chenin was somewhat abandoned in the Loire in the 1970’s in favor of Cabernet Franc and Gamay, it is finding its deserved resurgence, becoming more popular within wine circles as of late. Moreover, Master Sommelier, Pascaline Lepeltier has been championing the variety for quite some time.

And, while the grape has since migrated to other parts of France, notably the South West, as well as California and South Africa, it is in the Loire Valley (which accounts for 95% of France’s plantings of the variety) that it really shines.

Yet, despite Chenin Blanc’s long tenure in the Loire, it is not easily recognized on the shelf given that it is labeled by geographic appellation, rather than grape name. In this case, some of the important names to know are Saumur and Savennières.

Additionally, Chenin can be somewhat of a chameleon in that it takes well to different types of wine production, producing a wide range of wine styles from bone dry to lusciously sweet, still and sparkling and with or without oak, malo-lactic fermentation and lees aging. Given this diversity of styles, there is a wealth of options from which to choose.

Regardless of production style, among its various characteristics, Chenin is high in acidity making it very food friendly as it cleanses the palate between bites. Its aromas and flavors tend toward fruit: citrus, apples and (the more exotic) quince; floral: honeysuckle and chamomile; and honey, wax, and lanolin.

During this time of social distancing and a greater emphasis on staying home, this is a wonderful option to try a selection of wines paired with your delivery or take-out.

In this vein, I was recently given the opportunity to taste through several iterations of this grape, paired with the Mediterranean cuisine of Extra Virgin NYC. This black owned restaurant, situated in the West Village, draws from “coastal fare from Italy and France” and has been open for 16 years.

My delicious dinner consisted of a pistachio-crusted goat cheese salad with roasted beets, endive, watercress, granny smith apple vinaigrette, followed by mushroom crusted virgin chicken with sweet pea risotto, Cipollini onions and truffle broth. Both dishes were a great match for the Chenin wines.

TASTING NOTES
Domaine de l’Enchantoir Saumur Blanc “Terres Blanches” 2018, Loire Valley, France, $20.00
Run by the Brunet family, this domaine has been farming organically since 2010. Aromas of stone fruit/apricot on the nose give way to a dry, rich and round palate with medium+ acidity, medium body, notes of red apple and very long length.

Chateau d’Epire Savennières 2017, Loire Valley, France, $25.00
Chateau d’Epire is one of the oldest domaines in the Savennières appellation, with a history that dates back to Roman times with ownership by the Bizard family continuously since the 17th century. Exotic notes of lanolin, peach and white flowers dominate the nose and persist on the dry palate, along with high acidity, medium+ body, some minerality and long length.

La Forcine Vouvray Demi Sec 2018, Loire Valley, France, $13.00
Produced by August Bonhomme, La Forcine is widely applauded as a value driven Vouvray. With a pronounced nose of floral and stone fruit notes, this off-dry wine is balanced with medium+/high acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Extra Virgin NYC
259 West 4th Street, New York, NY 10014
Currently open for delivery and take-out as well as limited outdoor dining, proprietors Michelle Gaton and Joey Fortunato are asking for support to close their block to vehicular traffic and permit more space for outdoor eating.