Category Archives: Food and Drink

Georgian culture, Chateau Buera and Gifts from God: An evening at Chama Mama

Posted on by
Reply

While I have previously tasted and written about Georgian wine, it has been from a more clinical vantage point – tasting wines and taking notes at my own dining table or occasionally sampling one at an adventurous wine bar. However, it wasn’t until last week that I had a much more immersive experience with the wines, food and culture of Georgia, which was an absolute privilege and pleasure.

More specifically, in Georgian culture, guests are seen as a gift from God, which is exactly how I felt at a recent press dinner at the Brooklyn outpost of Chama Mama – a top Georgian restaurant with three locations in New York City.

Due to subway signal issues, I arrived slightly late, feeling a bit out of sorts and overwhelmed as I was introduced to a flurry of people and then further greeted a glass of wine: Chateau Buera Ojaleshi Rose 2021. But, within minutes, the group of us were easily comfortable with one another as we acknowledged both our differences and our shared roots of growing up in the Metro New York area.

Chama Mama’s Lasha Tsatava, wine director and Mariam Navdarashvili, chief marketing officer.

Presiding over the dinner were our hosts Nino Chiokadze, executive chef and Lasha Tsatava, wine director. We were also joined by Chama Mama’s chief marketing officer, Mariam Navdarashvili. While long on passion for Georgian wine, Lasha’s tenure in New York is limited to just a handful of weeks (although he has lived in the U.S. since 1998).

But, he is on a mission to share his love and passion for Georgian wine with the United States. In fact, he is so passionate about sharing these wines with the U.S. that he is co-founder with Erica Frey of the non-profit Saperica, whose “mission is to promote Saperavi and other Georgian grape varieties along with Georgian gastronomy and culture in the Finger Lakes, NY and around the U.S., by organizing and facilitating educational seminars and exchange programs between the regions, for wine and culinary professionals and enthusiasts.”

In fact, citing its incredibly long and rich vinous history (in 2017, conclusive evidence proved that Georgia was the birthplace of wines), Lasha was eager to share how Georgia and wine have been inextricably linked forever, which permeates throughout its culture and political history, a point he came back to on several occasions.

After our initial introductions, we gathered around the table to begin our feast, where we were greeted by a beautiful bowl of fresh, seasonal vegetables, including Persian cucumbers, brightly colored red radishes and other farm-fresh produce. From this first taste, our immersion into Georgian culture began.

Lasha explained that the seasoned salt found in a ramekin on the table was typical of NW Georgia, in the mountainous region of Georgia called Svaneti. Associated with the Argonauts and the Golden Fleece (thanks to its mention in Homer’s Odyssey), this area contains the most preserved culture of the country. Bringing together salt and a blend of spices, the mixture was delicious for dipping the aforementioned vegetables and simply enjoying them on their own.

Another important component of Georgian culture was the presence of bread (aka puri) on the table. Joining the vegetables and salt were simple mini baguettes and a flatter, pita-looking bread, both of which had been baked in a wood fired oven. We were encouraged to dip the bread in flavored sunflower oil, known as adjika. This spicy condiment was more flavor than heat and added a delicious dimension to enjoying the bread.

Appetites whetted, we turned our attention to the first course, which further showcased the season with a Spring herb salad, featuring aromatic, springtime tarragon in the dressing. This herby freshness paired beautifully with the white wine served alongside it: Chateau Buera Rkatsiteli 2022. This wine displayed lovely notes of citrus, hazelnut and salinity, with medium acidity, medium body and long length.

At this point, we were provided with a more formal introduction to our other (yet non-present) host of the evening – Château Buera. Buera is situated in Kakheti, an area that Lasha likened to the Napa Valley, and which represents 75% of the country’s plantings and 70% of its total wine production.

Château Buera was established in 2018 by Goga Maisuradze who is also the founder of Lopota Spa Resort and is responsible for spearheading tourism to the region. Here, the focus is on European wine making, while celebrating indigenous varieties (such as Rkatsiteli, Ojaleshi and Saperavi) and centuries-old winemaking. In this regard, Lasha described Buera as a modern, visionary producer and further shared that many of the wines had been aged, not just in oak, but also in clay vessels known as qvevri. Also important to note is that Chateau Buera utilizes sustainable agriculture practices in its vineyards and is in the process of obtaining BIO certification.

Equally important, as the meal progressed, we were given a glimpse into classic Georgian culture – the Supra, which is a feast hosted by a toastmaster, referred to as the Tamada. Clearly serving as our tamada, Lasha held his glass aloft and welcomed us to the table, noting our shared love of food, wine and travel, a very apropos toast and a lovely way to highlight how our shared experiences bring us all together.

Typically, these feasts feature immense tables heavily laden with food, dozens of people and toasts that last well into the night. Some of the extended nature of these events can be attributed to the Tamada’s nomination of an Alaverdi – someone nominated to elaborate on the toast. Fortunately, the nominations were limited and while our evening was no less memorable or special, it gratefully left us only tipsy and home before midnight.

Salad plates cleared, we were brought our second course, which consisted of a “Taste of Georgia,” starring four different pkhali (spreads)  – spinach, cabbage, beans and eggplant  – served alongside two different breads. These spreads are prepared with walnut paste and other seasonings such as garlic, cilantro and pomegranate. The bread options were the open faced, seasonal khachapuri, topped with fresh tarragon and basil and the imeruli khachpuri stuffed with farmers and other cheeses, which was reminiscent (to me) of a cheese borek.

Lasha suggested different combinations of the spreads with the bread options and added to the permutations by serving a trio of Amber wines. The Amber wine style is a category especially close to Lasha’s heart and one that they are actively building at the restaurant. While some people may be familiar with skin-contact, orange wines, they deliberately use the term Amber (instead of orange) as these are skin-contact wines that are specifically aged in clay qvevri.

Our flight consisted of an “Intro to Amber” wine, “Combo” and a “ ‘Full-On’ Amber”, denoting three different styles of these wines. Lasha explained that these wines provided a 3D experience with clay serving as a third dimension in addition to the more common use of stainless steel and oak.

Hailing from Western Georgia, the Intro wine (Tsolikouri Amber 2020, with one month of full skin-contact and six months in qvevri) offered up more fresh fruit with low tannins; more tannic than the Intro and with less fresh fruit character, the modern innovation Combo wine (Chateau Buera Qvevri Amber 2019) had been aged in oak. Finally, the “Full-On style (Pat’ra Marani Rkatsiteli 2021) was redolent of rich, dried fruit and was more overtly tannic on the palate. A similar Amber flight is always on offer at the restaurant as are ones featuring white wines, Saperavi wines and a trio of white, amber and red.

From breads and spreads, we shifted to heavier fare, with pork mtsvadi, pork skewers that had been marinated for at least 24 hours. The Chef further clarified that dried vine stems are used alongside the charcoal when cooking the meat. This course was served with the Château Buera Saperavi Reserve 2018, which had been aged in French oak for 12 months and then another 12 months in bottle, before release. This wine offered up beautiful notes of black cherry, chocolate and cocoa powder and toast, with good acidity, ripe tannins, full body and long length. 

The pork plate was followed by lamb chops similarly marinated for a lengthy period of time and also sprinkled with pomegranates, adding sweetness and tartness in contrast to the meaty flavors. The chops were accompanied by the Dekanozishvili Dry Red 2017, a blend of 70% Saperavi, 20% Otskhanuri Sapere and 10% Shavkapito. The wine had been fermented in both qvevri and oak, aged in oak barrel for 18 months and had also been produced using the appassimento method of drying out the grapes over a period of months to naturally reduce their water content and thereby increase the concentration of flavors. At seven years of age, this showed some development on the nose and palate with aromas of smoke, toast, forest floor and black fruit. It was intense with heady flavors, culminating in very long length.

Nearly sated with food and drink, we were presented with one last course: Pelamushi, which is a “traditional Georgian sweet grape pudding topped with glazed walnuts”. To produce this dish, grape juice retained from during harvest is significantly reduced to concentrate the flavors and cooked with flour to produce a gelatinous, yet tasty, dessert. The course was paired with the Royal Khvanchkara Khvanchkara Red Semi-sweet 2018, from NW Georgia featuring a blend of the Alexandrouli and Mujeruli grapes.

As we lingered at the table a little longer, Lasha insisted upon us tasting a little Chacha, Georgian distilled beverage produced similarly to Grappa, produced from the Rkatsiteli grape and “blended with glacier-based water from the Caucasus mountains, aged in qvevri (handcrafted clay vessel) for 3-4 month and charcoal filtered before bottling”. It was very smooth, balanced and a refreshing palate cleanser.

We had finally come to the end of our evening and reluctantly bid our hosts farewell. We might not have quite become friends, but we certainly left feeling more connected, having shared a very special experience that truly immersed us in the ways of Georgian wine and food. Whether or not guests are seen as gifts from God, having been a part of this magical evening was truly a gift! 

LIST of WINES TASTED

  • Chateau Buera Ojaleshi Rose 2021, Lechkhumi, Georgia
  • Chateau Buera Rkatsiteli 2022, Khakheti, Georgia
  • Tsolikouri Amber 2020, Georgia
  • Chateau Buera Qvevri Amber 2019, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Pat’ra Marani Rkatsiteli 2021, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Chateau Buera Saperavi Reserve 2018, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Dekanozishvili Dry Red 2017, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Royal Khvanchkara Khvanchkara Red Semi-sweet 2018, Racha, Georgia
  • AMBE wine spirit from Rkatsiteli grapes

Fun times with fresh wines, Rioja’s El Coto wines

Posted on by
Reply

A Not-So-Silent Disco with El Coto…

Last week we were excited to participate in a Silent Disco event at Fort Tryon Park with friends and neighbors. Yet, at the last minute, the event was postponed due to inclement weather. Yuck! (And good call on the organizers’ part as dancing in the rain with expensive headphones isn’t a great idea). But, we were disappointed not to get together and enjoy each other’s company.

Accordingly, we moved the celebration indoors, sans dancing, and invited the group to gather at our apartment. I offered up wine; our neighbors said they’d bring snacks. True to their word, H and T arrived at our door with a tray, bearing cheeses, salami, fruit and crackers. Meanwhile, I had set the table with a few snacks of our own and had chilled several wines from El Coto. Situated in Spain’s Rioja region, this winery was established in 1970 and is still going strong.

Despite the wet weather, it was still a hot and muggy summer night, so we were all eager to enjoy some chilled wines. The El Coto Blanco and El Coto Rose were the perfect options to pair with our impromptu party!

I opened up the rose first and the bottle was soon empty (a clear crowd favorite!), necessitating that we turn our attention to the white, which was also greatly appreciated by our guests. As it grew late, we wrapped up our conversations, and cleaned up as everyone soon cleared out. All in all, it was a lovely evening!

A few days later, I opened up the El Coto Crianza, which had been touted as being a red wine capable of being chilled. My previous experience with chilled reds has been primarily limited to Beaujolais and other fresh and fruity reds; I wondered how the Rioja would fare with time in the fridge. I needn’t have worried; it was really nice and paired well with my leftover paella.

Looking for refreshing wines to enjoy on a hot summer day? Look no further than this trio from El Coto!

TASTING NOTES

El Coto Blanco 2022, Rioja, Spain, SRP $11.99


This wine is a blend of 93% Viura, 4% Sauvignon Blanc and 3% Verdejo. It displays notes of citrus and pear on the nose. The dry palate provides medium acidity, medium body and flavors of citrus, pear and apple, culminating in long length.

El Coto Rose 2021, Rioja, Spain, SRP $11.99

Bringing together Rioja’s traditional Tempranillo (90% ) and Garnacha (10%), this beautifully-hued salmon pink wine offered up aromas and flavors of raspberry and strawberry. It is fresh and lively, with medium acidity, medium body, and medium plus length. Easy drinking and very food friendly.

El Coto Crianza 2019, Rioja, Spain, SRP $16.99

Sporting 100% Tempranillo, this wine was aged in oak for at least 12 months with an additional six months in bottle, prior to release, as befits its Crianza designation. Aromas of wood, blackberry and raspberry greet the nose. The palate is dry, with bright acidity, flavors of berries, oak and spice, with medium plus body and medium length.

Mediterranean Aperitivo: Delicious Products of Place on Your Plate

Posted on by
Reply

I’ve noticed an interesting trend recently of food and wine products banding together to take their message to the masses. Case in point, the Charming Taste of Europe Consortium dinner I attended a few weeks ago. I think this is a great idea and, frankly, it makes a lot of sense since it can be challenging to showcase a single product and moreover, we don’t eat and drink in a vacuum.

This type of collaborative effort was also seen at the Mediterranean Aperitivo event, which was held at Eataly Flatiron’s winter wonderland rooftop in mid-December. As I was unable to attend, the organizers offered me the opportunity to recreate the festivities at home and I happily accepted.

Admittedly unsure what to expect, I was pleasantly surprised to receive a cute package revealing Vermouth di Torino PGI, Pecorino Toscana PDO, a Costa d’Amalfi PGI Lemon and Greek olives, along with an informative guide. You’ll spot a lot of letters in the above product names and that’s both intentional and important.

Specifically, PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) are legal terms that mean that the products have been deemed by the European Union to be of high quality and of particular connection to a territory or geographical area. Much like Champagne (a sparkling wine that only comes from the Champagne region in France), these labels signal to the consumer that this is a special product coming from a very specific place.

Vermouth di Torino PGI: While many people are familiar with vermouth in the context of a martini, they may not know precisely what vermouth is. It is, in fact, an aromatized wine. In this regard, a local wine has been infused with local, aromatic plants. Think of it as the gin of wine! Vermouth is commonly produced in alpine areas and Piedmont’s Torino, at the foothills of the Alps, is no exception. The region’s vermouth developed its stellar reputation in the 18th century and has continued to uphold the same standards and receive continued recognition.

While the guide suggested making a classic martini, paired with the enclosed Greek olives, our household was a bit shy of the required quantities of either gin or vodka at that moment. Instead, I opted to mix up a slightly altered version of the guide’s other recipe, Contessa of Piedmont, substituting the sweet vermouth for the dry and Campari for the Aperol. It was well balanced and delicious with floral and botanical notes!

Pecorino Toscano PDO: While pecorino is a general term for cheese produced from sheep’s milk, Pecorino Toscano PDO hails specifically from sheep’s milk produced in Tuscany and a few municipalities in Umbria and Lazio. It can be made as a soft or semi-hard cheese, depending on the maturation (20 days and four months minimums, respectively). It was relatively mild and slightly salty, with nice richness.

Costa d’Amalfi PGI: Groves for the Costa d’Amalfi PGI lemons were first planted between the 10th and 12th centuries along the coast from Positano and Cetara in Campania. Interestingly, these should not be confused with the lemons of Sorrento, which have their own PGI and are a different variety of lemon. The Costa d’Amalfi lemons are quite large, weighing a minimum of 100 grams and are less acidic than the typical, store-bought lemon. These lemons frequently find their way into limoncello, but as was evidenced by enjoying it on its own, they are great in their unadulterated form, with freshness, beautiful fragrance and bright acidity.

Greek olives: Finally, we have the olives produced in Western Greece, which has a biblical history of olive groves. Formal cultivation of olives within Greece dates to 3500-2500 BCE. Today, the area is home to 150 million olive trees, 600,000 olive farmers and 2,800 mills. The type of olives wasn’t specified, but I suspect them to be Kalamata olives, with their intense briny, acidic and salty flavors.

After making my cocktail and plating up the cheese, olives and crackers, I sat down to enjoy a wonderful collection of tastes and flavors, all of which proved to be a perfect pairing. Overall, I encountered lots of freshness on the plate and in the glass. The next time you are shopping for various ingredients, reward your palate by seeking out the unique products that are produced in very special places. Salut!

Where to eat in Woodinville, WA

Posted on by
Reply

Despite being in Woodinville for only three days, which included three food-focused events in connection with Auction of Washington Wines, I also managed to enjoy meals (or at least light bites) at three of the area restaurants.

For a casual, yet delicious Italian lunch or dinner, check out Vivi Pizzeria, which is perfectly situated alongside both the Gorman and Patterson tasting rooms in the Hollywood Hills District of Woodinville. Vivi is owned by husband and wife team of Rick and Riesa Ragan, who met and fell in love while they both worked at the Hyatt Regency in Bellevue. The pizza was yummy, but I especially appreciated the tip to try to fried artichokes, thanks to Carrie of the Pacific Northwest Wine Life & Style blog.

More upscale, yet still laid back is the brand-new Walla Walla Steak Co., which opened in Woodinville in late July. As I was advised by Executive Chef, Adam Reece, they focus on buying the freshest meat, limiting their purchase windows to certain times of the year. The restaurant is actually a connected restaurant concept with Walla Walla Steak Co. and Crossbuck Brewing each sharing the space, centered around a live-fire grill. The upstairs offers space for private events and group dining.

Finally, the date-night worthy The Lounge is a food porn dream. During the pandemic lockdown, DeLille Cellars did its best to remain solvent and busy by partnering with a local caterer with whom they previously worked. As a result, wine club members were able to drive up to the winery’s Woodinville location and depart with a delicious dinner and accompanying wines. It was a successful venture that they have since parlayed into a full-scale restaurant on site, which has quickly gained a well-deserved reputation. Managed by Executive Chef Michael C. Toni and Chef de Cuisine Taylor Kinnebrew, this gastronomic destination was recently named as the 4th best winery restaurant in the U.S. by USA TODAY.  

Our multi-course lunch featured the following dishes:

  • 5 spice yellowfin tuna with compressed watermelon macerated chilies citrus caviar ash farms micro pea shoots
  • Pork ragu al latte with fresh strozzopreti pasta lemon sage and pecorino
  • Filet Mignon
  • Crispy gnocchi, roasted mushroom conserva, four flags demiglace, olive oil verde
  • Cascadia Creamery Sleeping Beauty with house made bread crisps and fruit preserves

On a closing note, while we did not dine at the Woodinville Cut Shop, I did enjoy their signage and its nod to Tommy Tutone’s 1980s song. From their website: “The Woodinville Cut Shop is your neighborhood, good-timin’ roadhouse restaurant and lounge located on the Slough in Woodinville, WA.  Open seating, order-at-the-bar kinda place. Burgers, sandwiches, salads, ribs, tacos, fries, local craft beers, and the rough stuff done right. Covered & heated outdoor seating, fire pit, big screen TVs and always kid-friendly until we’re definitely not.” 

Making Merry for the Holidays

Posted on by
Reply

It continues to be a weird year, one which has spilled over into the holiday season as we ushered in Thanksgiving and now await the arrival of the December celebrations. While some people did observe their usual traditions and headed home for the holidays, many took heed and stayed home, gathering around much tinier tables than in years past.

Moreover, we searched for new ways to mark the occasion taking public safety, risk tolerance and other factors into consideration. In this vein, the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade went ahead (sort of) as usual, but with previously taped segments and a lack of crowds.

Similarly, after half a decade of celebrating as a twosome, my husband and I decided to break with our own tradition and welcome a small group of friends (bringing us to a total of 6 people) for the Thanksgiving meal. We planned our menu to incorporate fresh ideas (waffled turkey burger sliders on Hawaiian Dinner Rolls and Mexican Chocolate Spiced Pumpkin Pie) and some old favorites (Butternut Squash Soup and Cranberry-Citrus Chutney), alongside some staples: Brussel Sprouts and Mashed Potatoes.

As we sat down to dinner, we welcomed everyone to the table and dusted off our well-loved tradition of encouraging each guest to share a brag, a gratitude and a desire. We were also delighted to add in a new tradition – choosing American wine for an American holiday. Accordingly, it was a pleasure to share several recently released Merry Edwards’ wines with our assembled guests.

Pinot Noir is always a favorite of mine for Thanksgiving because it is very versatile to pair with the plethora of flavors that permeate the diverse dishes of the holiday. This year was no exception and it was a delight to open up these bottles with our guests who very much enjoyed the delicious indulgence. These wines are similarly suited to other celebratory meals for this same reason.

And, our friend Aleksandra suggested another new tradition, asking each person to list their “firsts” for this year, reframing some of the chaos and confusion the pandemic has wrought on our lives. Among my firsts was making macrons and performing burlesque.

With Thanksgiving in the rearview mirror, it’s time to turn our attention to Chanukah, Kwanza, Christmas and New Year’s, which again will require restraint and resolve as we navigate these times. Yet, we can still enjoy the holidays with good food, good wine and good company, even if the group is smaller than usual.

As the year draws to a close, it is the perfect time to acknowledge all that we are grateful for, while raising a glass in anticipation of better times. Cheers!

TASTNG NOTES

Merry Edwards BUCHER PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00
Named for the Bucher family who founded their dairy here back in 1958, the Bucher Vineyard was initially planted to Pinot in 1997 as part of the family’s initiative to branch out to other industries. The partnership between John and Diane Bucher and Merry and Ken began in 2016 during which Merry selected two hillside blocks to produce this single vineyard wine. These two Butcher blocks total 2.13 acres – essentially just a small spit of land; consequently only 230 cases of this wine are produced. This is the third vintage under this partnership.
Aromas of earth, spice, and dried flowers greet the nose. The palate is dry with medium+ body and flavors of black pepper, spice, earth and dried cherries, culminating in long length. We especially enjoyed this one!

Merry Edwards FLAX VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00
Merry has been working with the Flax family since 2004 and has been a strong supporter of this vineyard, expanding the quantity of fruit she purchased as it became available. Her dedication further grew when she made the commitment to take on a long-term lease of the property in 2009. The Flax’ have since sold to Steve and Donna Hicks in 2012, but the relationship continues to this day as the new owners have continued to collaborate with Merry and have also made important improvements such as the installation of pig- and deer-proof fence. Fruit is sourced from a total of 6.9 acres, yielding 720 cases.
Fresh floral and berry notes give way to lusher, riper red fruit along with dried and fresh herbs on the palate. The wine offers up bright acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $72.00
With 20 planted acres, the Meredith Estate vineyard is the largest property of those featured in this article, resulting in a much larger case production of 1,400. This abandoned apple orchard in the Sebastopol Hills was purchased by Merry in 1996 and planted to Pinot in 1998. They practice sustainable agriculture, with the use of cover crops and other earth-friendly farming approaches.
Red and black cherries feature prominently on the nose, with a fruitier profile than the Warren’s Hill, along with notes of wet leaves and an herbal undercurrent. The dry palate provides a decidedly savory note, with medium+ body, high acidity and very long length.

Merry Edwards WARRENS’ HILL PINOT NOIR 2018, Green Valley and Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $66.00
While Merry and Ken have leased this vineyard site since 2009, as the vineyard hit its 20th year, it became evident that replanting was needed. Cuttings from an old vineyard of Lee Martinelli’s were propagated in the nursery and replanted on the site in 2012. The vineyard, formerly planted by Warren Dutton, has now been renamed Warren’s Hill, in memory of Merry’s son, Warren, who passed away in 2006 and had been named in honor of Merry’s friends Warren Dutton and Warren Arnold. Thus, the site’s new name recognizes and honors all three Warrens in Merry’s life.  The 5.5 acres produced 440 cases.
This wine displays notes of mushroom, herbs, spice, cherry on both the nose and palate with an earthy finish. It offers up bright acidity, medium+ body and long length and was a more elegant expression than the Meredith Estate.

Merry Edwards LATE HARVEST SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $48.00
As a new addition to the Merry Edwards portfolio, this is the first vintage which saw a harvest of Sauvignon Blanc grapes from the Maefield Vineyard, which had been planted in 2015. The vineyard yielded both regularly harvested and late harvest grapes, the latter of which was affected by noble rot and thus permitted the production of this sweet wine. This is not an easy feat in the Russian River Valley, where fog and moisture can easily turn to grey rot instead of the more beneficial botrytis cinera, responsible for creating luscious dessert wines. Not surprisingly, only a small production (250 cases) was made.
A pronounced nose of apricots, oranges, flowers with medium sweetness beautifully balanced by high acidity. It is medium+ bodied with flavors of apricot, dried orange, white flowers and long length. It would be lovely paired with custards, fresh fruit and other lighter desserts such as apple pie.

For more information on Merry Edwards, you check out her website and read my previous articles:
-Drinking Wine in Interesting Times
-In Pursuit of Pleasure, Promise and Pinot





Enjoying sweet treats with Gonzalez Byass Sherries

Posted on by
1

I used to love trick-or-treating as a kid – between costumes and candy, what more could any child want? Those days are somewhat over – you can still dress up, but folks might look askance if you showed up at their door begging for treats (or maybe not, perhaps your neighbors are more open minded).

In any case, it was with light-hearted fun that the folks from Gonzalez Byass Sherries reached out and offered up the opportunity to do a candy and Sherry pairing in honor of Halloween. They sent out three different Sherries and an assortment of decadent sweets. They say, “Candy is dandy, but liquor is quicker,” but this “food” and wine pairing was the best of both worlds, with the chance to indulge our inner child while indulging in adult beverages.

In anticipation of the holiday, I eagerly opened up the wines and dived into the candy on the day before Halloween. Interestingly, while it has been proposed that all three Sherries would be a match for at least one of the candies, I was surprised at how dry the Gonzalez Byass Alfonso Oloroso was (I hadn’t paid close attention before tasting and presumed that it was a sweet Oloroso; it was not).

I later checked the technical sheet and noticed that the residual sugar* was less than 4 g/l, further confirming the dry character of the wine. Of course, while I didn’t
personally enjoy the Oloroso with any of the sugary snacks, everyone has their own, absolutely valid, palate preferences. Moreover, I loved this wine on its own and found it to be a wonderful addition to a tapas-themed dinner the next night.


The Harvey’s Bristol Cream – always one of my favorites – was delicious with the caramel- and nut-infused treats such as the Milky Way, Payday and 100 Grand bars. Meanwhile, the intense Gonzalez Byass Nectar PX paired beautifully with rich chocolates and, most especially, with Reece’s Peanut Butter Cups. I really enjoyed the balance that the candy provided to this super sweet wine.

Although Halloween has come and gone, this tasting exercise is equally applicable to the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday where there will be treats aplenty on the table. I would serve the Oloroso with appetizers, especially dried fruits, nuts, charcuterie and cheeses. The Harvey’s Bristol Cream would be nice with lighter flavored desserts such as apple pie and cheesecake, with the PX being perfect with pecan or pumpkin pies. Or, if you are too full from the meal, you could simply pour a glass of the sweet nectar as you sit back and appreciate all that you are grateful for this year.

TASTING NOTES

Harvey’s Bristol Cream NV DO Jerez, Spain, $20.00 R/S 138 g/l*
An historic wine, Harvey’s was established in Bristol, England in 1796 and this wine in particular was first produced in 1882. Creamier in style than their other Bristol Milk product, the wine was given the name of Bristol Cream although it is not actually a cream liquor. It is a blend of 80% Palomino and 20% Pedro Ximenez, which have been solera aged for an average of 7 years. With aromas and flavors of orange peel, spice, caramel, this wine is off-dry to medium sweet, with medium+ body and long length.

Gonzalez Byass Alfonso Oloroso, DO Jerez, Spain, $25.00 R/S <4 g/l*
Produced from 100% Palomino grapes, this wine is aged for an average of 8 years in oak casks in a solera system. It is made in an oxidized style as a result of leaving air space in the casks, thereby adding color and depth to the finished wine. It is dry with baked apple, candied apple and baking spices, medium body and very long length.

Gonzalez Byass Nectar PX, DO Jerez, Spain, $25.00   R/S 138 g/l*
After being harvested, the 100% Pedro Ximenez grapes are dried in the sun on mats for up to two weeks, losing water content and concentrating flavors and aromas in the grapes. After fermentation and fortification, the wine is aged in solera for an average of 8 years. It is extremely rich and unctuous, with full body and notes of molasses, anise, raisins and other dried fruits, culminating in long length.


*Residual sugar (R/S) is a measure of how much sugar remains in the wine after fermentation has been completed and is expressed in grams per liter (g/l).

Finding Hope in Dreams, Ron Rubin Winery

Posted on by
Reply

This moment in time continues to be challenging for us all as the world grapples with both the pandemic and protests. The uncertainty for what it will all mean in the future is unsettling, but I am choosing to find hope amidst the pain.

Last week found me on a socially distant, “Pandemic Playdate” in the local park with my friend. She supplied the colored pencils and I brought a bottle of wine. The page I had selected to color that day read:

It is at this moment, when things appear so bleak that we must redouble our efforts and not give up. We must believe that we can remake the world in a more peaceful reality.
~Cynthia McKinney

I was in a dark place that afternoon, but this quote touched me deeply.

As we move forward to remake the world, I am holding my hopes and dreams in my heart and in my mind even though I don’t know when they will come to fruition. Along these lines, while some people leap straight into pursuing their passions, others wait patiently for their dreams to come true.

Ron Rubin first dreamt of having his own winery while a student at UC Davis. That was back in 1971. But life had other plans for Ron. In 1972, he returned home to Illinois and entered the family business, Central Wholesale Liquor Co., bringing innovation and expansion over his 22 year tenure with the company before moving on to become a top seller of Clearly Canadian Sparking Water.

Yet, he never forgot about his dream.

Forty years later, Ron parlayed his success into the purchase of River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, in the Russian River Valley’s Green Valley, renaming the winery Ron Rubin Winery. He had finally manifested his dream!

Not one to rest on his laurels, Ron threw himself into his new venture, earning himself the honor of Innovator of the Year Award from the North Bay Business Journal in 2016.

And, interestingly, while wine continues to be an important passion, his love of beverages is quite broad. In this regard, Ron was so inspired by the book The Republic of Tea that he made an offer to the authors (and owners of The Republic of Tea), Mel and Patricia Ziegler, to purchase their company back in 1994.

Beyond beverages, Ron’s other guiding passion is philanthropy, giving both his financial support and business acumen to numerous causes including serving on the Board for Sonoma State University’s Wine Business Institute; donating to Wine Spectator Learning Center’s state-of-the-art education complex; funding The Maynard Amerine Wine Label and Menu Collection, at U.C. Davis; and establishing the Ron Rubin Winery TRAINED FOR “SAVING LIVES” program.

This latter program was launched in 2017 in collaboration with the American Red Cross and ZOLL Medical Corporation, with the Ron Rubin Winery covering the cost of supplying qualifying California wineries with a ZOLL AED PLUS (Automated External Defibrillator) unit.

In keeping with his life-long pursuit, Ron’s top wines are part of his Dream Series and include two Chardonnays and a Pinot Noir.

TASTING NOTES
Ron Rubin Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2018, $20.00
A bit shy on the nose, but really lovely on the dry palate with medium acidity, medium+ body and complex flavors of melon, apple, a slight woody note and vanilla, culminating in long length.

Ron Rubin Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2017, $25.00
With berry and cherry aromas on the nose, this beautiful wine offers up good acidity, fresh cherry fruit, slight leafy notes and long length on the palate.


Drinking Wine in Interesting Times: Hess Select Edition

Posted on by
Reply

As Natalie Merchant, of 10,000 Maniacs, once sang,
“These are Days you’ll remember
Never before and never since
I promise”

I know that I have been fortunate thus far and am choosing to see the beauty amidst the chaos, so I am proceeding to sing the whole song in all its positivity.

Yes, these are interesting, challenging, unprecedented times. We don’t know what will happen. There is so much uncertainly, but I am choosing to live day by day — to celebrate my life and all that I have right now. I realize that this may be much more difficult for others and I send them much love and healing.

All of this is not to say that everything is perfect. I am doing my fair share of stress eating and drinking. Not the best self care plan, but sometimes the creature comforts work.

Despite the stress and overwhelm, I am trying to follow my mantra of “Everything in moderation…including moderation,” and, to that end, am enjoying a glass or two of wine with meals. It brings a sense of normalcy and elevates our home cooking. We have also adopted the practice of ordering in once a week in an effort to support local businesses specifically and the food industry in general.

This week found me enjoying a trio of wines from the Hess Select collection: a white, rose and red. I have previously tasted wines from Hess’ more upscale production and have always been impressed with them and their winemaking. With 40 years of experience, it is not surprising that they are so well made.

While the Hess Select wines are produced on a much larger production scale and offer less complexity than higher end wines, they definitely deliver. They are the perfect go-to wines when you want to pour a food-friendly option that won’t break the bank, require significant thought or seem like an extravagance.

My favorite of the three was the Pinot Noir from California’s Central Coast. It was really lovely and provided a great Pinot Noir experience at a very reasonable Pinot price point ($19 SRP). The nose offered up herbal and mushroom aromas, giving way to a ripe palate of spice, dried herbs and rich cherry and berry flavors, with long length.

With the arrival of Spring, the rose was a welcome ray of sunshine, greeting the nose with watermelon and cotton candy, both of which persisted on the dry, crisp palate. Finally, the full-bodied Pinot Gris presented with ripe melon notes and paired well with our Mexican take-out.

When not eating or drinking, in order to keep busy and step away from the computer, I have taken up painting-by-numbers. This has become a meditative practice for me as well as a creative outlet. May you each find your own way to navigate these days with health, sanity and (perhaps) a glass of wine!

WINES MENTIONED ABOVE
Hess Select Pinot Gris 2019, California, USA, $12.00
Hess Select Rose 2019, California, USA, $12.00
Hess Select Pinot Noir 2018, Central Coast (CA), USA, $19.00

Full Lyrics: These are days

These are days you’ll remember
Never before and never since
I promise
Will the whole world be warm as this
And as you feel it
You’ll know it’s true
That you are blessed and lucky
It’s true that you
Are touched by something
That will grow in you, in you

These are days you’ll remember
When May is rushing over you with desire
To be part of the miracles you see in every hour
You’ll know it’s true that you are blessed and lucky
It’s true that you
Are touched by something
That will grow and bloom in you

These are days
These are the days you might fill with laughter until you break
These days you might feel a shaft of light
Make its way across your face
And when you do you’ll know how it was meant to be
See the signs and know their meaning
It’s true
You’ll know how it was meant to be
Hear the signs and know they’re speaking to you, to you

Source: LyricFind
Songwriters: Buck Robert / Jerome Augustyniak / Natalie Merchant / Natalie A Merchant / Robert Buck
These Are Days lyrics © Words & Music A Div Of Big Deal Music LLC

Never Say Never at Domaine Bousquet

Posted on by
Reply

Growing up in a winegrowing family near Carcassonne, Anne Bousquet wanted nothing to do with the industry. It didn’t appeal to her in the least and she was determined to get an education, open up her options and pursue financial independence among other lifelong goals. No one told her resistance is futile.

In pursuit of her dreams, Anne attended college in Toulouse to study economics. During her studies, she moved to Minnesota as an exchange student in order to improve her English (and also ended up meeting her future husband – an exchange student from Spain). As a result of this experience, she was offered the opportunity to earn a master’s degree in economics, becoming an economist and eventually moving to Boston where she analyzed the wood and paper industries. Anne was very happy with her life and was doing well in her career.

During this time, her father had launched Domaine Bousquet. While most people go on vacation and bring home a crappy t-shirt 😊, Anne Bousquet’s father ended his Argentine vacation with the purchase of land. His dream was to plant one of the first vineyards in the Tupungato area. He planted his vines between 1998-2000 and produced his first wine in 2003.

With wine ready to sell, Anne’s father turned to her for assistance. Anne’s husband jumped at the chance, and, while Anne agreed, she kept her economics job to pay the bills. The two moved to Europe in the mid-2000s, introducing the European market to their organic Argentine wines. Anne and her husband attended their first ProWein in 2005 and, by 2008, Domaine Bousquet was selling 1 million bottles annually, entering the U.S. market around this time. In 2009, Anne resigned from economics altogether to devote herself full-time to the winery, moving from Europe to Tupungato. Two years later, Anne’s father retired, placing her directly in charge of production and finance, while her husband is responsible for sales.

In 2015, Anne and her family moved yet again, this time to Miami, when they decided to start their own import company. The winery presently exports 98% of its production, thanks to strong demand outside of the country, selling 4.5 million bottles annually worldwide.

From the very beginning, Domaine Bousquet has been keenly focused on organic farming, receiving its organic certification in 2005. This approach has been very important to them and has been a point of differentiation in the market. Not surprisingly, Domaine Bousquet has always been a leader in organic production in Argentina. As a Certified Organic winery, Domaine Bousquet takes this commitment very seriously. While some vineyards may ascribe to organics during favorable years and use chemicals during tough times, they are not permitted to make such adjustments if they wish to keep their organic certification.

Thankfully, the climate and terrain of Argentina and the Mendoza region (more specifically) lend themselves well to growing grapes organically. As the driest wine region in the world, Argentina’s vineyards are generally free from mold and mildew issues that require extensive spraying and intervention elsewhere. Additionally, the high altitude of Argentina’s winegrowing regions maintains acidity and crispness in the grapes and thus the resulting wines.

More recently, under Anne’s direction, Domaine Bouquet wanted to get to the next level of organic certification, especially in the U.S. Although all their wines have always had lower sulfite levels than conventional wines, they have chosen to achieve USDA Organic certification for their new Virgen wines by excluding the addition of any sulfites at all. These wines are also Certified Sustainable, Gluten-Free and Vegan Friendly (they use bentonite to fine their wines rather than egg- or fish-derived fining agents).

The first Virgen wine was a red blend (bringing together Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec), made in 2018. It sold out in three months, prompting them to increase production with the next vintage, adding a Malbec and a Cabernet Sauvignon to the lineup in addition to the original red blend.

In speaking about these new wines, Anne acknowledges that the biggest risk to the Virgen line  is temperature fluctuation during travel and stocking issues with exposure to heat. “It’s pure; it’s a naked baby.” Yet, when tasting the wine two years later, they have found it still to be fresh and clean, despite its lack of added sulfites, which generally act as a preservative and anti-oxidant.

Moreover, they want to boost production of their sparkling wines (which they produce using both the Charmat and Traditional Methods) since they can give consumers Certified Organic sparkling wines – something they can’t really get from Champagne and many other regions. And, they can scale their production to meet perceived demand, due to their 700 acres and supplemental growing contracts.

The winery’s Gaia line, named for a goddess from Greek mythology, is now available only on-premise (at restaurants / not for retail sale). Initially developed with a red blend and a white blend, it also now includes a varietal Cabernet France (a first for them) and a Malbec. Anne notes that Cabernet Franc has been gaining in popularity in the region, prompting them to craft this wine.

Finally, Anne presented us with Ameri, Domaine Bousquet’s top icon wine. As she explained, all of the wines have Anne’s name on it, so they decided to create one wine with her husband’s name – his last name is Alimeri!

All in all, despite her initial resistance, Anne has made a good life for herself and her family in the industry she swore she’d never work. And, the wines that she produces are not only well made, they are quite economic to buy. As for whether Anne’s pre-teen daughter will try to eschew the family business as her mother did, for now, she wants to be an actress or a chef. We’ll have to wait to see if her resistance is futile!

TASTING NOTES
Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose Brut NV, Tupungato, Argentina, $13.00
Produced via the Charmat Method, this blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay has a beautiful, medium salmon color and a nice mousse. The dry palate offers up refreshing acidity, ripe berries and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Chardonnay 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $18.00
Aromas of nuts, apples and pear greet the nose and persist on the tongue. On the palate, the wine is dry with good acidity and a rich, round, full body, culminating in long length.

Domaine Bousquet Virgen USDA-certified organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Tupungato, Argentina, 13.00
This is a beautifully light Cabernet Sauvignon, with medium body and light tannins. It is fresh and clean, with black fruit, a slightly leafy note and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Virgen USDA-certified organic Malbec 2019, Tupungato, Argentina, $13.00
Much more intense than its sister Cab, the Malbec is concentrated with juicy, ripe fruit of plum and blackberries with light to medium tannins, medium body and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Cabernet Franc 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $20.00
A lovely wine with good complexity of aromas and flavors including cranberry, blueberry and dried herbs. The palate provides a beautiful texture. culminating in long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Malbec 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $20.00
This wine is fresh with lush, dark red and black fruit, along with peppery, spicy notes and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Ameri 2017, Tupungato, Argentina, $36.00
Bringing together Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot and then aged in French oak for 16 months, this wine displays strength and elegance, with medium tannins, red and black fruit and long length.

Bodega Norton and the Love of a Good Woman

Posted on by
Reply

It’s Valentine’s Day week, with the addition of the newly created Galentine’s Day and the usual backlash against this “Hallmark Holiday.” But, whether you are reaching for all things red and romantic or boycotting it altogether, there’s no denying the love that exudes from wine brand Bodega Norton, which celebrates its 125th anniversary this year.  Sharing lots of love with the New York wine press, the brand’s Chief Winemaker (David Bonomi) and Sales & Marketing Director (Santiago Galli) visited New York earlier this month as the third visit of a total of 125 to mark this momentous occasion.

Founded in 1895, Bodega Norton got its start when a British engineer, Edmund James Palmer Norton, was stationed in South America to build a rail line connecting Chile and Argentina and fell in love with an Argentine woman. Completely smitten and unwilling to leave her, he gave up his engineering career and established the winery in Mendoza, Argentina.

The winery continued to grow and flourish under the Norton family until it was purchased in 1989 by Gernot Langes-Swarovski of the Austrian crystal company. Drawn by his passion for wine, Gernot recognized the beauty and quality of Bodega Norton. To protect his investment, he sent his son, Michael Halstrick, to Argentina to lead the winery as CEO. Equally charmed as the original founder, Michael, too, met and fell in love with an Argentine woman, married her and now lives full-time in Argentina with his family, shepherding the winery towards ever-continuing excellence.

Joining Michael in his pursuit of excellence, David Bonomi has held the post as Chief Winemaker since 2014, and is only the 3rd winemaker at the winery in the past 50 years, maintaining its heritage and legacy. He had been with the company previously and his deep affection for Bodega Norton was evident as he spoke about the vineyards and wines.

Named a Top 10 South American winemaker by Decanter magazine, David was born into an Italian winemaking family (originally from Piedmont) and fell in love with wine at an early age. His first passion was viticulture, and, while he eventually studied enology as well, it is clear that he comes alive in the vineyard. With 33 years as a professional winemaker and viticulturist, David loves discovering the capabilities of new (to Argentina) varieties, such as Gruner Veltliner as well as new vineyards (in Uco Valley and Patagonia). He then crafts his interpretation of a place into wine.

Speaking about the Swarovski family, David described their arrival as a merger between Latin passion and European vision. He further noted the influence that the family’s attention to detail in the crystal business was infused into the existing culture at Bodega Norton, along with a strong emphasis on sustainability and best practices. Moreover, their commitment to quality production extends to their growers; the minimum contract is 10 years with shared investment in netting and other necessary equipment.

The winery’s five estate vineyards are all found in the foothills of the Andes Mountains, comprising a total of 1,750 planted acres that range in age from 30 to 80 years old. They are situated within Mendoza’s Lujan de Cuyo district and further delineated in a special area known as primera zona (first zone) for the quality of the grapes.

This is truly the desert, with limited water (they are limited to irrigating with snow melt from the mountains) and challenging conditions to create wine. As David explained, there are two climates here: hot and dry and, in more difficult vintages, cool and rain. But, their long-term vision keeps them going. And, that is a true labor of love!


TASTING NOTES

During the lunch celebration, we had the great fortune to taste through a selection of current wines as well as a vertical of the winery’s top wine, Gernot Langes. The Gernot Langes was first produced in 2003 and honors Bodega Norton’s current owner, Gernot Langes Swarovski. Assessing seven vintages ranging from 2006 to 2016, it was apparent that the wine is not a photocopy, but rather, it is a wine that differs from vintage to vintage. Moreover, while only the 2016 vintage is available, the exercise demonstrated the wine’s ability to age and develop with time.

Bodega Norton: 1010 Bubbles NV, Mendoza, Argentina, $13.00
Produced via a special Charmat Method to create fine bubbles and retain the fresh fruit aromas of Gruner Veltliner, the wine is bright with slight floral and citrus and pear notes, delicate mousse, long length.

Bodega Norton Reserva Malbec 2018, Luyan de Cuyo, Argentina, $19.00
Made with 100% Malbec, David now adds a small mount of fruit from the Uco Valley to the wine to give it additional complexity. It offered up notes of plums, figs, black current with a savory and leafy undercurrent. The palate displayed good acidity, with medium-firm tannins, medium+ body and long length.

Bodega Norton Privada Family Blend 2016, Luyan de Cuyo, Argentina, $22.00
Bringing together 40% Malbec (for structure) , 30% Cabernet Sauvignon (for body) and 30% Merlot (for acidity), this wine was originally kept just for the family to enjoy with friends, but has since been produced as a commercial wine.  The use of oak is very limited, so it is not overt on the palate. Notes of spice, black cherry and blackberry greet the nose. On the palate, it is more structured than Reserva Malbec, as well as richer and rounder with a smoky note in the very long finish.

Bodega Norton Gernot Langes 2016, Mendoza, Argentina, $105.00
A blend of 30% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine was aged in oak for 16 months, with an additional 14 months in bottle before release. Of the vintages we tasted, it was the freshest with an expressive, concentrated nose of black fruit, dried herbs, smoke, with good acidity, firm tannins, medium+ body, culminating in long length.