Author Archives: Tracy

Washington Wine Takes Manhatta

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The desert-like landscape of Eastern Washington state is a far cry from the cityscape view from the 60th floor of Manhatta restaurant in New York City. Yet, the two came together beautifully at a recent dinner welcoming the Washington wine industry and members of the press for a long overdue visit.

Assembled in the room, we were introduced to Sadie Drury, vineyard manager/ viticulturist of Seven Hills Vineyard; Alex Stewart and Hal Iverson, two of the three winemakers at Matthews Winery; and Matt and Kelly Austin, owners/winemakers at Grosgrain Vineyards.

While the focus was decidedly on Washington wine, it was clear that everyone was ready to reconnect after the lengthy absence due to the pandemic. It was a pleasure to linger over conversations, foster new friendships and simply enjoy time together over a glass of wine… things we had all missed over the past several years.

And it was a special opportunity to renew my acquaintance with this wine region and expand my knowledge. While I have been aware of Washington wine for some time and understand the basics from a big picture perspective, it is a region with which I am less familiar. With over 1,000 wineries in the state, 90% of them producing less than 5,000 cases annually, our local wine shop shelves predominantly feature wines from the larger estates, thereby telling only a fraction of the story.

Thus, despite being the second largest wine producer in the U.S., this jewel in America’s wine crown is perhaps less recognizable to many wine consumers than California, Oregon or even New York. Yet, this is indeed a region worth knowing and is definitely one to watch. While Hal jokingly referred to Washington’s past as having once been the “wild, wild west”, it was clear that the state is distinguishing itself as a high quality, innovative wine region.

Still in its nascent phase (the majority of wineries didn’t get started until after 2001), the state’s grape growers and winemakers are embracing their innovative spirit. Taking advantage of a blank slate, there are no rules as to what can be grown or what can be produced; there is no signature to follow. Moreover, there is still a lot of trial and error, as newcomers investigate novel (to the region) grapes and winemaking production methods. Given this bent toward experimentation, not surprisingly, folks are reluctant to hang their hat on a single grape. Consequently, Washington holds lots of potential, with its current influx of energy, enthusiasm and outside investment.

Equally important, they recognize the need for flexibility and adaptation. As one of the winemakers said during our dinner, “If you are stuck in your ways, it won’t work.” This is especially true given the recent climatic shifts that they have endured over the past several vintages. In particular, in 2021 they experienced a heat dome event, forcing them to pick very late, based on taste instead of Brix levels or other numerical values. Plus, they found unusual situations with potassium due to the excessive heat, which had an interesting impact on the grapes and wines with regard to their pH, resulting in more alkaline, savory wines. They anticipate the need to pivot on a regular basis going forward. Case in point, the 2022 vintage is expected to be much cooler.

This desire for innovation and enterprise was immediately evident upon arrival, when we were welcomed with a pour of Grosgrain Les Collines Vineyard Sémillon Pétillant Naturel 2020. This sparkling wine offered up beautiful effervescence with a dry palate and was a great introduction to this winery with its unusual treatment of this variety. With a relatively romantic origin story, Matthew Austin and his wide Kelly saw the movie Sideways on their first date, inspiring a joint dream to open their own winery. They eventually left their previous careers, bought property in Walla Walla at a bankruptcy auction and launched Grosgrain Vineyards in 2018, adding a second vineyard on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla valley shortly after.

As further evidence of the pair’s love of trying new things such as unique grape varieties and techniques, we tasted their Grosgrain Philips Vineyard Albariño. Additionally, a Traditional Method sparkling wine produced from Cava grapes is planned. With a focus on sustainability measures in the winery, they use light weight bottles, which purposely don’t sport a capsule on the neck.

With a much lengthier tenure in the state, Matthews Winery was established in 1993. While the winery is situated on the west side of Cascade Mountains, they source grapes from sustainably farmed vineyards in the Columbia Valley and Walla Walla Valley and have established long-term contracts with their growers, nurturing relationships as part of their sustainability practices. Matthews is primarily known for its Bordeaux varieties and Bordeaux-style blends. Harvesting at high ripeness, they describe their style as one pushing extraction. They do use new oak but Alex clarified that there are a wide variety of options available to them ranging from grain texture, vessel capacity, and toast strength and aim to use oak sparingly and thoughtfully.

Equally important to these stories are the farmers who grow the grapes, which is why it was such a treat to meet Sadie. Although she comes from a farming family, she is the first to grow grapes in her lineage. She talked about the vaunted Seven Hills Vineyard under her jurisdiction and we were given the opportunity to taste the literal fruits of her labor.

First planted in 1980 and later expanded, Seven Hills was one of the first commercial vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley and now encompasses over 200 acres. Jointly owned among three wineries who produce wines from 50% of the annual harvest, the remainder is sold to more than 25 other premium wineries. Sadie has overseen the vineyard for ten years and explained that it provides every orientation, high elevations, and is generally self-regulating.

Overall, it was a perfect evening, full of great conversations, delicious cuisine and fabulous wines. In many ways, Washington state wines are still figuring things out, but they are certainly not a diamond in the rough. These vinous gems are definitely worth seeking out!

TASTING NOTES
The Grosgrain Philips Vineyard Albariño Albariño 2021 is farmed organically and then fermented in a combination of concrete eggs, neutral oak and stainless steel. It displayed good acidity with medium body, green apple aromas, lovely minerality and long length.

In describing their Grosgrain Los Rocosos Vineyard Grenache 2018, Matthew finds Grenache to be similar to Pinot in that it reflects the place it is grown. Theirs is fresh, with savory and gamey characteristics, low alcohol and long length.

Matthews Winery 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Barrel Sample 
Fermented in oak (85% of which was new), this wine is dry, rich, round, with medium acidity, medium to full body, with ripe citrus, and depth and complexity, culminating in long length.

We also tasted 2021 barrel samples of Matthews Winery’s Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blends from the Columbia Valley. Both were well balanced, with lush fruit, herbaceous notes and good acidity.

The Grosgrain Seven Hills Vineyard Syrah 2019 was produced in a cool, delicate, Rhone style, with no new oak and the intention of being a very food friendly wine. It was stunning, with ripe tannins, good fruit character, bright acidity and long length.

I had previously tasted the L’Ecole No. 41 Perigee 2018  (albeit a different vintage) and it was a pleasure to become reacquainted with this wine as well as taste the Pepper Bridge Seven Hills Vineyard Bordeaux blend 2019. Both are Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy blends with fruit from the Seven Hills Vineyard, with structure, power and intensity, yet still retaining elegance.

For more on Washington wine, see this previous post.



Building and sustaining relationships at Loveblock Wine

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Erica Crawford Loveblock Wine

“Everything is based on relationships.” ~ Erica Crawford

As Erica Crawford of Loveblock Wine stated early on in the evening, “Everything is based on relationships…” which is how a South African medical researcher ended up in New Zealand and ultimately became part of the New Zealand wine industry. In sharing her back story, Erica talked about that first, vital relationship when she met “a Kiwi bloke” at a wine fair in Cape Town, a theme that resonated throughout our time together.

After emigrating to New Zealand and marrying Kim Crawford (the aforementioned “Kiwi bloke”), Erica pursued pharmaceutical sales while her husband established his winemaking career. The two eventually started the eponymously named Kim Crawford winery, building a successful business and brand and selling it in 2003. As a condition of the sale, they had to wait several years before they could resume their life in the industry.

The following year, Erica fell in love with the view of a vineyard situated within the Awatere Valley of New Zealand’s Marlborough region, making the purchase with proceeds from the sale. She appropriately named it Loveblock, which gave name to their next venture, Loveblock Wine, which they launched once the embargo was lifted.

I first met Erica in May 2016, when she was in town to share her Loveblock wines with members of the NYC wine press (see previous post). Back in New York City in May 2022 after a lengthy hiatus, Erica once again met with wine journalists, this time at the newly opened Vinyl Steakhouse.

Over dinner, we talked about the relationship between wine and food. Perusing the menu, Erica recommended the potato croquettes, chosen for having been fried, as a perfect foil for her Pinot Gris. She also suggested that we try the shrimp cocktail, crab cakes and the crispy sushi roll. Not surprisingly, her selections were spot on and we all enjoyed the appetizers with the wine.



We next talked about the relationship between farming and the environment. Upon purchase of the Loveblock land, Erica and Kim decided to plant the vineyard utilizing organic farming practices, which they had already begun to embrace in their diet. Today, their Anchor Estate Vineyard is certified organic by BioGro New Zealand. Moreover, as grape growers and winemakers, they are deeply rooted in sustainability and have inculcated this approach into all that they do. They refer to their philosophy as the “’triple bottom line’ concept: (Profit People Place)”.

As we moved on to our main courses, we talked about music, having fun with Vinyl Steakhouse’s collection of… vinyl. Choosing records from Lou Reed, Stevie Nicks and others, we reminisced about our teenage years and the music that accompanied them.

And eventually we talked about wine. In fact, Erica has to be prompted several times to talk about the individual wines because we have become so engrossed in other conversations.

As noted, we kicked off the meal with the Pinot Gris 2020 from Marlborough. Erica advised us that there has been increased interest in New Zealand Pinot Gris, which made me very happy since I had really enjoyed the Pinot Gris wines I had tasted in New Zealand during my visit in 2011. She clarified that they are crafting wines that provide an alternate option to Pinot Grigio, since theirs is more similar in style to Oregon Pinot Gris. For her, the wine is great as an aperitif and walks the tightrope of sugar and alcohol, while providing good fruit flavor. As I taste it, it is lush on the palate, with good acidity, medium body and notes of almond, pear and citrus, with long length.

We then turned our attention to the two Sauvignon Blancs Erica had brought. The first was the Sauvignon Blanc 2020, which is a relatively typical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with fresh herbal characteristics joined by fresh citrus fruit, but with less pronounced notes than other NZ SBs. Erica describes it as being broader on the palate with pineapple, peach and cilantro notes, highlighting this latter aroma as making it a great option to pair with greens, especially kale, which can be a tricky wine partner.

Next up is their newest creation: Tee Sauvignon Blanc 2021. As its origin story, the intent was to keep sulfur levels low, but prevent oxidation. As a solution, they discovered a green tea additive in powder form that blocks the enzymes that cause oxidation in wine. In this way, they are able to produce not just a wine made with organic grapes, but actually a certified organic wine that is stable. This latter point is particularly important.

As a result, they have created a completely different iteration of Sauvignon Blanc. Depicted by Erica as having more mandarin, starfruit and spice aromas, the wine is also lower in acidity, yet richer than the first Sauvignon Blanc. It was really intriguing and exciting to taste this wine with its depth and structure, thanks to the tannins from the green tea as well as the six hours of skin contact that the wine received. It culminated in very long length and was my favorite wine of the night.

Our final wine of the evening was the Pinot Noir 2020 produced from fruit grown in Central Otago. This was really lovely with smoke, herbs, cherry and lots of earthiness on the medium bodied palate, along with nice, ripe tannins and good length.

Even though we were at a steakhouse, I opted to forgo the filet mignon and went with the scallops, accompanied by cauliflower purée and crispy prosciutto. It paired beautifully with both the Tee Sauvignon Blanc and the Pinot Noir.

At the end of the night, we were all reluctant to leave having renewed our relationships among Erica and ourselves. And that is everything.



Chateau Maris, A Sustainability Story

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Reinterpreting the triangle trade in an eco-friendly and fair trade way, the Brittany-based Grain de Sail partners with organic and biodynamic French wine producers to ship the bottles to New York City aboard their carbon-free cargo sailboat. From New York, the boat heads to Central America where it takes on organic coffee and cocoa beans, which will be roasted and produced (respectively) by Grain de Sail’s operation in Brittany.

Grain de Sail’s most recent arrival in Brooklyn’s harbor included 1,200 bottles of “Naïve Wine” from Chateau Maris, a biodynamic producer located in the Languedoc. This is just the latest in a string of Chateau Maris’ sustainable efforts and decarbonized solutions, which became the first winery in all of Europe to become a Certified BCorp.

The partnership between Chateau Maris and Grain de Sail was a natural one (pun intended), since both companies share the same set of values. Equipped with solar panels, an insulated hull and a heat exchange system, the cargo ship is outfitted with the latest and greatest technology to ensure that the boat is ecologically sound and the products are safely transported.

Making the trans-Atlantic voyage in 24 days, Grain de Sail’s reliance on wind power makes the crossing 50x greener than sending the wines by the usual container ship. And, these days, with the backlog of containers in the U.S.’ Port Elizabeth, the producers can actually get their wines into the market faster, despite the lengthier trip (24 days via sailboat vs 5 days via container ship).

“If the wine sucks, the conversation ends.” ~Jacques Herviou

At an event showcasing both the sailboat and Chateau Maris’ “Naïve Wine”, members of the press had the opportunity to meet representatives from both companies, taste the wines and enjoy a beautiful Manhattan sunset.

Back in the day, Jacques Herviou, one of Chateau Maris’ three partners, used to sell high end wine such as Grand Cru Burgundy. But, during his visits to various less developed countries, he saw pollution and other environmental issues that upset him. Returning home, it became hollow to sell luxury products to the rich, sparking his desire to be a part of the solution instead.

In 1996, Jacques made the acquaintance of a New York-based investor, Kevin Parker, who is passionate about sustainability and biodynamic winemaker Robert Eden. The trio purchased the well-regarded Chateau Maris only to discover that they had been sold a lemon of a vineyard.

More specifically, they realized that the soil was completely depleted as a result of years of being poisoned with pesticides, insecticides and fertilizers. Thus, it was incumbent upon them to breath new life back into the soil in order to create a wine with life.

They experimented with various compost piles, treating one with a biodynamic preparation, which they found to be substantially better than the non-treated pile.
They became certified through EcoCert in 2002, by Biodyvin in 2004 and by Demeter in 2008. But, Jacques is quick to note it was a business decision to go biodynamic rather than a romantic or marketing one. As he so eloquently put it, “If the wine sucks, the conversation ends.”

These wines assuredly do NOT suck! Over the course of the evening, we tasted:
–Rose de Nymphe Emue 2021: A pale-hued pink, this rose is similar in style to its neighboring Provence and was crisp and refreshing with lovely fresh fruit.
–Naive 2020: The wine of the hour, having made its maiden voyage on the Grain de Sail, this Grenache-based wine has no added sulfur, yet it is stable and redolent of red fruit, with good acidity and medium body. It fittingly features a label with a drawing by surrealist painter, Henri Rousseau.
–Dynamic 2016: This beautiful Syrah is bold, full-bodied and meaty, yet still elegant with dark fruit and ripe tannins.

Beyond the vineyard, Chateau Maris strives to implement its sustainability efforts throughout the entire process. In this regard, as a certified BCorp, this commitment extends to the company’s governance, environment, community, workers and customers, which has led to its designation as “Best for the World” Environment in both 2017 and 2018. Moreover, Wine Spectator magazine has named it, “One of the 5 most environmentally friendly wineries in the world.” Further efforts include the planting of trees through Trees for Jane as well as donations to ASPAS to restore a wildlife area in the Languedoc and La Maison de l’ Abeille de Cassagnoles to preserve and protect the bee population.

Moreover, they are constantly looking at new ways to reduce their carbon footprint, which is why the partnership with Grain de Sail was such a good fit. Herviou was very pleased with the way that things had gone with the maiden voyage and was excited about Grain de Sail’s newest ship slated for completion in 2024, which will have a much larger shipping capacity. Wishing them all smooth sailing!

From Burgenland with Love: Food Friendly Reds and Whites

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Austrian wines are less well-known than those from say Italy or Spain, but they are definitely deserving of one’s attention. Austria had a wine scandal back in the 1980s, but with swift action, the implementation of stringent production laws and a re-dedication to quality, the country came back stronger than ever. Since then, further steps toward quality wine production, such as the creation of the DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) system in 2001, which designates regions, grape varieties and general typicity.

Home to three quality wine regions: Niederosterreich, Burgenland and Steiermark, there is a rich diversity in climate, soil and typicity among Austrian wines. Yet, they are all firmly focused on producing the highest quality.

Moreover, given the need to walk the straight and narrow in the wake of the scandal, for decades winemakers stuck to a completely clean style of winemaking, ensuring the consumer that their wines were fresh and unadulterated. Yet, today, with renewed consumer support and trust, winemakers have felt the leeway to experiment with more modern techniques and new styles, resulting in more diversity and modernity.

A recent tasting at Café Katja in New York’s Lower East Side was the perfect setting in which to receive a more formal introduction to the diversity of Austrian wine and, in particular, to Burgenland’s reds and whites. More specifically, the options offered up a sampling of different wine styles, both traditional and modern. With this aim, four different flights, each paired with a different dish prepared by Chef Erwin Schrottner, provided an opportunity to taste a selection of whites, lighter reds, heavier reds and a dessert wine alongside traditional Austrian cuisine.

Within Burgenland, the majority (52%) of vineyards are found nestled around the shallow Lake Neusiedler, which has an important climatic influence on the vines, moderating what would otherwise be a continental climate. This area is known primarily for its reds, which account for 56% of plantings, with Blaufrankisch and Zweigelt taking the top two spots. The cooler southern section of Burgenland is known more for its fresh, white wines. And, although international varieties are found in the region, the emphasis is on indigenous varieties, which might be challenging to pronounce, but are a pleasure to drink.

FLIGHT 1
The dill cured salmon with shaved cucumber and sour cream was presented with four whites:
*Zantho Gruner Veltliner 2020
*Thomas Straka Welschriesling Rechnitz 2020
*Kolfok Vulkan Alte Reben Gruner Veltliner 2019
*Heinrich Naked White 2018 (a blend of Chardonnay, Pnot Blanc, Muscat and Pinot Grigio)

The Naked White was my favorite pairing with the salmon for its smokiness, which echoed the smokiness in the cured fish, along with its freshness that cut through the oil of the fish.

In keeping with the shift toward less clean wine styles, two of the whites had been oak aged and one had a reductive quality to it.

FLIGHT 2
Roasted Moulard Duck with red cabbage and dumpling was paired with four “red delights”:
*Kolfok Querschnitt Rotburger & Co 2019
*Nitenhaus Blaufrankisch 2017
*Hareter Pinot Noir ohne 2018
*Falstaff Das Federviech Zweigelt Reserve 2018

I preferred the Pinot Noir with the duck for its gaminess, which matched nicely with the duck, but was very intrigued by the freshness of the Querschnitt, which utilized carbonic maceration in its production.

In this initial introduction to Austrian reds, we were advised that Blaufrankisch is usually more tannic than Zweigelt.

FLIGHT 3
Dry aged sirloin with vegetable linguine, cheese dumplings and a Zweigelt reduction was the last savory dish, served with:
*Prieler Blaufrankisch Johanneshohe 2018
*Iby Ried Hochäcker Blaufränkisch 2018
*Jalits Ried Diabas Blaufrankisch 2017
*Eichenwald Ried Durrau
Blaufrankisch 2017

Here, my pick was the Prieler, which was just lovely and had sufficient fruit, body and tannins to balance with the sirloin.

FLIGHT 4
A duo of chocolate mousse (white and dark), brandied cherries and pistachios was the final course. Featured with the “sought after” flight, it was accompanied by two reds and a dessert wine. In truth, I only enjoyed the dessert with the dessert wine, being very sensitive to the need for a wine to be as sweet (if not sweeter) than the food.

*Prieler Blaufrankisch Ried Mariental 2017
*Eichenwald, THE OAK Cuvee 2017 (a blend of Blaufrankisch, Zweigelt, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon)
*Heidi Schrock Ruster Ausbruch 2018 On the Wings of Dawn

While I did not enjoy these two reds with the food pairing, I did find them to be enjoyable overall and an example of some of the higher end reds coming out of Austria today. In this regard, the Prieler Blaufrankisch Ried Mariental 2017 garnered 97 points from Wine Enthusiast and retails at $108/bottle.

The botrytized Ruster Aubruch was lovely with honeyed sweetness, yet sufficient acidity to keep it from being too cloying and was a nice foil with dessert.

The key takeaway for me was that Austrian wines and especially those from Burgenland, offer up great quality, diversity and food-friendly options. There is a lot to learn (and, for the average consumer maybe too much), but ask your trusted wine associate to help guide you on your next trip to the wine store and you’ll open up a whole new world of wines.



 

A New Look at Long Island Wines

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With the first vineyard planted in 1973 by a young, starry-eyed couple fresh out of Harvard, the first seeds (or rather vines) of the Long Island wine region were sown. That couple, Louisa and Alex Hargrave, were true pioneers, bringing vision and bravado to their newly purchased farm. Much like the early English settlers that preceded them, Alex and Louisa came to the task with limited knowledge, but unlimited passion and drive, pushing them to succeed where others were sure they would fail. Before long, they were joined in their efforts by other adventurous souls, all of whom were in love with wine. As time flew by, a fledgling wine region was born, eventually becoming an internationally recognized producer of quality wine.

Today, there are 48 winery members of Long Island Wine Country, situated among the North Fork, South Fork (aka The Hamptons) and Long Island’s Western Suffolk County. The region has garnered repeated praise in both consumer and trade publications. Moreover, the bucolic region has retained much of its rural charm, making it a true escape from the hustle and bustle of New York City, located only two hours away.  Accordingly, the region makes a great getaway to visit the vineyards, taste some wines and stock up for the summer.

I have been familiar with Long Island wines since the early 2000s. In particular, when I first joined the wine industry in mid-2005, I set up a wine education business in Mattituck, adjacent to Macari Vineyards.  As our lives changed, we sold our Long Island real estate in 2013 and have only been back to the region a handful of times since then (see Island Wines), not for any other reason that being busy with other things. For me, Long Island wines are the jewel in New York State’s vinous crown, with high quality wines, exciting innovations in winemaking and warm-hearted people. At nearly 50 years old, the region has indeed found its footing and honed its knowledge of the terroir. Thus, it was a pleasure as well as a trip down memory lane as I recently tasted through a half case of Long Island wines.

TASTING NOTES

Sparkling Pointe Topaz Imperial Rose 2019, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $44.00
Produced in the same method as those from Champagne, this wine was produced with 50% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir and 16% Pinot Meunier, the same grape varieties used in that vaunted region. Sparkling Pointe is dedicated solely to sparkling wines and with few things more festive than bubbles, it was the perfect way to ring in the new year when we spent New Year’s Eve at the winery one year. More recently, we enjoyed the wine for an at-home date night of oysters, charcuterie and cheeses. The nose offers up intense fruit character of raspberry and strawberry, while the palate displays a fine and persistent perlage, good acidity, and lovely fruit flavors, culminating in long length.

Anthony Nappa Wines, Frizzante NV, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $22.00
Originally a winemaker for Shinn Estate (now known as Rose Hill Vineyards), Anthony launched his own eponymous brand in 2007 and has been pushing the envelope since the beginning as evidenced by his white Pinot Noir aptly named Anomaly. This blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 30% Viognier, 25% Moscato Giallo, undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle and is then aged sur lie (known in Italy as the Col Fondo method) yielding a lightly sparkling wine (hence the name frizzante). Somewhat cloudy, thanks to the production methods, this wine shows aromatic fruit and floral notes, slightly reminiscent of cider, on the nose and palate, with slight effervescence, good acidity, depth and concentration, and long length.

Macari Sauvignon Blanc “Katherine’s Field” 2016, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $24.00
The Macari family has been active in the region since 1960s, planting vines in 1995. The third generation of the family is now involved in the business. Today, they are firmly focused on sustainability and implement biodynamic farming practices in the vineyards. This 100% stainless steel fermented, Sauvignon Blanc shows slight smoke, citrus and tropical fruit on the nose. Citrus and tropical fruit persist on the dry palate, joined by a hint of savory herbal notes, with fresh, crisp acidity, a slight prickle, and long length.

Also see this story.

Peconic Bay Vineyards Riesling 2020, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $28.00
One of the first wineries we visited back in the day was Peconic Bay winery. The winery has recently re-opened after a lengthy closure, but vines were tended to during this interim period, so there is no loss to the quality of the fruit. Peconic Bay has always been well respected for its Riesling, which is classic in nature. slightly off dry, but mostly dry, crisp acidity, medium body, long length.

McCall Wines, Estate Pinot Noir 2015, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $30.00
As part of his efforts to save the farmland adjacent to his family’s property from the threat of development, Russ McCall planted his fields with twenty-one acres of vineyards, eventually making his first wines in 2007. The tasting room opened in 2010. I have a been a big fan of his Pinot Noirs since I first tasted them, and they continue to impress me. This latest bottle was no exception. Beautiful notes of earth and herbs greet the nose and persist on the dry palate, joined by tart cherry and berry flavors, with good acidity, medium body and long length.

The Lenz Winery, Estate Selection Merlot 2015, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $35.00
Originally established by the Lenz family, in 1988 the winery was sold to Peter and Deborah Carroll who have continued to maintain the highest standards for their wines, pitting them against world renowned wines in blind tastings where they hold their own and then some. The winemaking team is led by Eric Fry, who has been with Lenz since 1989. This lovely Merlot offers up smoky, plum and coffee notes on the nose, which persist on the palate, which is dry, with medium body, medium+ acidity, and long length.

Dining at Home: Elevating Mundane Mondays with Fine Wine

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Having arrived at the 2nd anniversary of Covid’s official designation as a global pandemic, the world is slowly returning to a pre-pandemic normal. Yet, in many ways, the world has significantly changed and the way we live is not necessarily the same normal we used to know.

For many, the realities of inflation are further hampering their ability to dine out as before, especially as restaurants try to make up for lost time, lost patrons and lost income. Plus, understandably some people are still wary of dining indoors or being out in big crowds.

In light of these social and economic changes, the way we socialize is in flux. Yet, the need for human connection has never been greater. But staying in to save money and maintain safety doesn’t have to impede one’s plans. Dining at home easily puts the emphasis on what’s important: enjoying quality time with friends and loved ones. Moreover, it is easier and less expensive than finding a mutually agreeable restaurant.

In this vein, I have been returning to hosting people in our apartment much more frequently these days, but in different ways than before. Given this shift, I have been desiring to entertain more lavishly when it comes to cuisine, cocktails and wines. Thus, we are following suit by cooking more elaborate meals and upgrading our wine choices.

As of late, we are inviting couples and small groups for dinner, both on weeknights and weekends, as a way to renew acquaintances, reconnect and recharge. One Monday night, neighborhood friends joined us for a casual dinner of paprika chicken and butternut squash, which was easily enlivened with the Biserno Insoglio del Cinghiale. Similarly, a cold, snowy Saturday was the perfect excuse to skip a walk in the wet weather and host a friend for charcuterie, cheeses and olives in my apartment and break open the Nardi Brunello. And, a Chianti Classico Riserva is always a welcome addition to one’s table.

Your guests certainly won’t complain about being served higher end wines with more complexity and concentration. Such selections can take a mundane Monday and elevate the occasion with the simple twist of a cork.

>>Read on for tasting notes and information on the properties.

TASTING NOTES

Tenuta di Nozzole 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, Italy, $24.99
Owned by the Folonari family, which has been in the winemaking industry since the 1700s, Tenuta di Nozzole was purchased in 1971, with vineyards dating 700 years.
This wine is produced solely from Sangiovese grapes and then spends 24 months in oak barrels with another 3 months in bottle before being released. The extra ageing earns this wine its Riserva designation and adds to the depth and development of the resulting wine.  

Aromas of red cherry, black cherry, slight oak and wood greet the nose. The dry palate has high acidity, medium+ body and ripe, resolved tannins. It displays more secondary characteristics than primary fruit flavors, culminating in long length.

Tenuta di Biserno 2019 Insoglio del Cinghiale, Tuscany, Italy, $42.99
The Tenuta di Biserno property stems from a partnership between Marchese Lodovico Antinori, creator of Italian legends Ornellaia and Masseto, and his brother Marchese Piero Antinori, President of acclaimed Antinori Wines, in collaboration with legendary Oenologist, Michel Rolland. Situated in the Upper Maremma, the vineyards are home to a unique microclimate, which the collaborators felt well suited to Cabernet Franc, which is less common in the region. This particular wine is an interesting blend of 33% Syrah, 33% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot.

With notes of smoke, oak, blackberry and earth, the beautifully balanced wine offers up good acidity, full body and ripe tannins. The dry, complex palate shows flavors of blackberry, smoke, a hint of raisin, and earth, along with long length.

Tenute Silvio Nardi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $83.00
Founded by Silvio Nardi who purchased Casale del Bosco estate in 1950 and became a leader in the establishment of the Brunello di Montalcino denomination, Tenuta Silvio Nardi has become a highly regarded producer of these wines. Today, Silvio’s youngest daughter, Emilia Nardi, is at the helm of the winery, working in consultation with enologist Eric Boissenot, one of the world’s top ten winemaking consultants. As a Brunello, this wine is made entirely of Sangiovese and, as per law, is aged for 30 months in wood barrels and 12 months in bottle.  

On the nose, this wine displays notes of ripe cherries, oak, and a slight leafy note. The dry, full-bodied palate has bright acidity, with rich, concentrated fruit of cherry and berry, along with a hint of oak and very long length. It is still quite tannic and needs time In bottle to develop.

Stuck at home for Holiday 2021? Your Plan B awaits…

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Baby, it’s Covid outside! With the Omicron variant running rampant, the number of people testing positive for the Covid virus has increased significantly these past few weeks.

For many, that means that long-awaited holiday plans to go out and celebrate or to visit loved ones might have to be postponed yet again. It is certainly regrettable, but, your Plan B doesn’t have to feel like one.

Recovering from Covid this past weekend, my husband and I were forced to cancel our date night plans for our health and the safety of others. We were, of course, disappointed to be stuck at home for the duration of the weekend (and beyond), but, as I was finally feeling better, we wanted the opportunity to enjoy a festive evening.

Cue the goodies we recently purchased from Gourmet Food Store. What the online store lacks in creativity, it makes up for in a large selection of treats from cheeses and charcuterie to caviar and candy and a lot of other yummy items.

Taking advantage of the store’s Thanksgiving weekend sale, I had stocked up on caviar, blini, Serrano ham, escargot and chocolates. Thus, we were nearly there with our delicious feast. We added some cheeses we already had in the fridge, drizzled on some high end Balsamic vinegar and, equally important, opened up a bottle of bubbly!

It was a wonderful evening of decadence as we sipped and savored the Champagne, connected with each other and simply enjoyed our gourmet goodies. Not so bad for Plan B!


Bruno Paillard Extra Brut Première Cuvée SRP $60, Champagne, France, $60
Aromas of bruised apple, toast and slight nuttiness greet the nose. There is a hint of fruit on the attack, but it is generally dry on the palate with crisp acidity, a creamy mousse and persistent perlage, culminating in very long length.



Wonderful wines for the table

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There are meditation wines, cocktail-party wines and those that are really best enjoyed with food. With the holiday season upon us, the latter two are in particular demand as we head to family gatherings, holiday parties and other social events.

Wines best for the table generally have bright, vibrant acidity, which I have heard by one sommelier described as a “highlighter” of the meal, underscoring the flavor of the food. In this regard, there are a wide variety of choices with all colors (white, orange, rose and red) as well as both the absence and presence of effervescence very welcome in one’s glass.

Here are a wealth of options to consider as you shop the wine aisle or webpage of your favorite retailer or peruse the wine list while dining out.

Sparkling wines
As noted above, sparkling wines are very food friendly and most have beautiful acidity. Moreover, the sparkle in sparkling wines further cleanses the palate and makes them great for toasting at the table. Plus, we can’t discount the fun factor that bubbles add to any occasion, so they are especially appropriate for the celebratory season.

I’ve written about Prosecco Superiore numerous times (see this, this and this) because these are well-made wines at a great price. Produced via the tank method, these wines emphasize fruit and floral aromas and flavors and some have a slight sweetness (but are still decidedly dry) that can pair well with spice.

Albino Armani Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Veneto, Italy $19.99
Aromas and flavors of floral and pear, with nice consistent perlage, freshness on the palate, culminating in long length.

White and Orange Wines
Many white wines are good pairing partners due to their acidity, light to medium body and range of flavors to mix and match with what is being served. This is equally true of Chardonnay, plus it has some additional characteristics which work well with food such as its fuller body, which means it can stand up to richer, heavier fare. Similarly, those Chardonnays with buttery or woody notes are great options if you wish to echo these flavors in the food. For example, a rich, buttery Chardonnay paired with lobster tails in a creamy butter sauce.

Merry Edwards 2019 Olivet Lane Chardonnay, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00
Aromas of butter and smoke greet the nose and persist on the elegant palate, with apple and citrus flavors, good acidity, medium+ body and very long length.

Another “white” variety with some chameleon properties is Pinot Grigio (also known as Pinot Gris). In fact, the grape is not white, but rather gray (hence its name — both grigio and gris translate as gray in Italian and French, respectively). Yet, it can be produced in shades of white as well as orange.

Albino Armani Corvara Pinot Grigio 2019, Valdadige DOC, Italy, $14.99
Notes of smoke and tangerine give way to pear and minerality on the dry palate, with medium acidity, medium+ body and long length.

About Albino Armani
Albino Armani is a family-owned winery with five wineries situated in Northeast Italy and is particularly well regarded as a producer of Pinot Grigio (the family has been producing it for 400 years). In fact, Mr. Armani is presently President of the Consorzio Pinot Grigio delle Venezie.  He believes that the best climate for this grape is a cool climate with temperatures that range 55-59F, otherwise the resulting wines are lacking in acidity. In this regard, the Alto Adige region is perfect with its continental climate, good diurnal shifts and extended daylight hours. He produces several Pinot Grigio wines, including two single vineyard bottlings: one from the Corvara Vineyard and the other from the Colle Ara Vineyard. 

Found within Valdadige, the Corvara Vineyard is surrounded by mountains, whose limestone rock reflects sunlight onto the vines. Constant winds from these mountains and nearby Lake Garda help ward off disease.

From the Colle Ara Vineyard within the Terra dei Forti denomination (which was created 25 years ago), Albino produces a ramato style Pinot Grigio. Pale copper in color, this hue of this wine stems from skin contact: the grape juice is macerated with the grape skins for a brief period of time leaching color from the skins.  Recalling the wines of his childhood, Albino sought to reintroduce this traditional production method in creating this wine.

Lighter-bodied Reds: Schiava and Pinot Noir
Lighter bodied reds, especially ones with bright acidity, are another terrific option since they won’t overpower the food, but still have freshness to cleanse the palate. Two such grapes that fit this bill are Schiava and Pinot Noir.

Certainly not a household name (at least not yet), the Schiava grape variety
(also known as Vernatsch or Trollinger) hails from the Alto Adige region of Italy, where It has been cultivated since the 16th century. The variety is also grown in Germany, especially in the Baden-Wurttemberg area. Overall, these wines are lighter bodied, dry reds with aromas and flavors of berries, almonds and violets.

Today, the grape is finding renewed favor in the region, with more attention paid to quality both in the vineyard areas and in the winery. Thankfully, many older (80-100 year old) vines still exist, which adds complexity to the wines. With their vibrant acidity, light body and low tannins, Schiava wines are well suited to a wide range of cuisine including charcuterie, cheeses, pasta dishes, pizza as well as Asian cuisine.

Alois Lageder Vernatsch – Schiava 2020, Alto Adige, Italy, ~$20.00
Pale garnet in color, this wine has a stunning nose of cranberry and earth. The palate is dry, with tart acidity, medium- body and flavors of earth, cranberry, pomegranate, and smoke, finishing with medium+ length.

Castel Sallegg Wine Estate Schiava Bischofsleiten 2020 Sudtirol, Alto Adige Lago di Caldaro Scelto Classico, ~$20.00
Slight herbal aromas on the nose become more pronounced on the dry palate and are joined by cherry and berry notes. High acidity, medium body and long length. This was beautiful with roasted chicken.

Likewise, Pinot Noir is a quintessential quaffer at the table. With its bright acidity and depth of flavors from fruity to floral and herbal to earthy, it provides a robust palette from which to pair various dishes. Moreover, the range of styles currently produced (cooler climate vs. warmer climate) adds to the options from which to choose.

About Merry Edwards

I've once again had the pleasure of tasting through a number of Merry Edwards single vineyard Pinot Noirs, which I've discussed previously (see here, here and here). It was wonderful to revisit some favorites, especially the Bucher Vineyard.

Merry Edwards PINOT NOIR 2019, Sonoma Coast(CA), USA, $54.00
Aromas of cherries, earth and spice repeat on the palate, along with flavors of plum and berry. The dry palate has medium acidity, medium body, soft tannins, and long length. 

Merry Edwards BUCHER PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00
This wine offers up deeper, darker notes of spice, black cherries and an undercurrent of earth, with bright acidity, medium+ body, medium tannins and very long length.
 
Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00
Red and black fruit and slight herbal notes pervade the nose, while the dry, yet very ripe palate presents flavors of black cherry, spice, and dried herbs, with medium acidity, medium to full body, ripe tannins and long length.

Yet, even with the fruitier styles of Pinot Noir available in the market, they might not be the perfect foil for heartier fare. For dishes such as beef stews and pork chops, one might prefer a full-bodied red with good acidity, ripe tannins and lovely fruit flavors such as an Amarone or Cabernet Sauvignon.

Albino Armani Amarone Riserva Cuslanus 2015, Veneto, Italy, $59.99
Beautiful nose, showing some development, with spice, wood, dried cherries and plum. The dry palate offered up medium+ acidity, medium+-to-full body and long length.

To learn more about Valpolicella and Amarone, please see this issue of Drinking Wisely & Well.




Domaine Bousquet Grows Vines and a Village

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While Peter Gabriel sings about “Digging in the Dirt,” Franco Bastias, Chief Agronomist for, and Anne Bousquet, owner of, Domaine Bousquet were “Dishing the Dirt” at a recent seminar presented over Zoom. I had previously met Anne (see this story) and it was a pleasure to see her again and make Franco’s acquaintance.

More specifically, while this presentation touched briefly on the history of Domaine Bousquet, the primary focus was on Domaine Bousquet’s dedication to organic viticulture and the way in which the existing soil types (aka dirt) influence the various wines they produce. The buzzword of the day was sustainability, but this isn’t just lip service; there is a clear and significant commitment to such activities.

This emphasis on sustainability can be traced to Domaine Bousquet’s very beginning when Anne’s father initially built a well and planted vines in 1998, choosing to farm organically from the start. By 2005 they had earned full certification.

In this and many other practices, Domaine Bouquet has set the stage for the region with several area wineries and vineyards following suit and converting to organic viticulture. Not surprisingly, this is a point of pride for Anne. As she noted, it is imperative that we keep the land we have for the next generation. Thus, it is an easy decision for her to not use chemicals.

As a consequence of their fully organic vineyard status, Domaine Bousquet started strong in Europe (in Switzerland, in particular). But, although Anne is understandably proud of the financial success of the winery, it is apparent that her real passion is on sustainable efforts.

Building on these initial efforts, more recently, a 360o sustainability commitment has been formally implemented to extend these practices to all areas of the venture. Taking a three-pronged approach, they apply this philosophy on social, economic and environmental levels. In this regard, they are actively reducing their carbon footprint and implementing water saving measures such as the use of recycled water for irrigation. Not content to rest on their laurels, they are presently pursuing multiple organic certifications as well as Demeter certification for biodynamic farming.

Yet, they realize that their company is so much more than vineyards and a winery; it is also people. Having made the decision to construct their winery in Tupungato, a small village with limited commerce, they knew that they would have to train and develop local talent to get the staff they needed to run the operation. In fact, most of their employees are from the local area and have since been trained in various areas of grape growing and winemaking. As a further responsibility to their human resources, part of the decision for Anne and her family to give up living in Argentina full-time (she splits her time between Tupungato and Miami), was to give the team a chance to grow.

Beyond the confines of Domaine Bousquet, Anne has focused on community development through the Fair for Life initiative. Recognizing the need to help others – which is particularly important in a rural area – they have provided money to those in economic hardship and have supported local children’s homes.

As an additional measure of their devotion to these issues, they recently hired a full-time employee to oversee environmental issues. Moreover, in 2015, they started their own import company, which has now become a leader in organic wine imports.

Most recently, Anne is in the process of setting up a website called “World of Organic,” which she hopes to complete by the end of the year. This consumer-facing site will pull together various resources, and share information and knowledge — all in a simple, clear, transparent format.

In the end, Domaine Bousquet has invested time, energy and talent to ensure that its vineyards are kept in the healthiest condition for generations to come, ensuring that they are well suited for grape growing and, ultimately, making great wine.

Furthermore, they have taken care to become intimately familiar with each parcel of land, matching individual soil characteristics to the grape varieties that will most benefit from those conditions. For example, calcareous soils lend a distinct minerality to Cabernet Franc; sandy soils maintain ripeness and permit irrigation without fear of fungus for Pinot Noir; and the ability to establish deep roots, enables Malbec to avoid rot due to humidity.

With its multi-level approach, Domaine Bousquet’s commitment to sustainability permeates throughout the company and permits Anne to accomplish her simple desire, “We just want to make the finest wines possible and sell them at prices people can afford.” This is a sentiment worth sustaining.

TASTING NOTES

Domaine Bousquet Sauvignon Blanc 2021 / SRP $13
Pronounced nose of citrus, mineral. Dry palate with high acidity, medium body, fresh and lively flavors of candied lemon, minerality and green apple, with long length.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Chardonnay 2019 / SRP $18
Fermented in oak, then aged in wood for 6 months. Aromas of bruised apple, oak. Dry, medium to full bodied with medium+ acidity, slight smoke/oak on palate, culminating in long length.

Domaine Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 / SRP $13
Blackberry and herbal notes on the nose. This easy drinking wine is dry, with medium acidity, medium body, berries, herbs, and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Cabernet Franc 2018 / SRP $20
Displays woodsy, wet leaves and black fruit aromas. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium+ to full body, flavors of oak, spice, black fruit, medium+ tannins, and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Pinot Noir 2019 / SRP $18
On the nose, this wine offers up notes of smoke, herbs and black cherry. A very elegant wine, it is dry with good acidity, medium body, light to medium tannins, earthy and cherry flavors and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gran Malbec 2018 / SRP $25
This is a blend of 85% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah. Aged in French oak for 10 months. Smoke, black and blue fruits greet the nose. The dry palate shows medium acidity, full body, black and blue fruits, slight oak, spice, firm tannins, intensity, concentration and long length.

Alentejo wines are ones to watch

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While many people think of Italy, France and Spain when they think of wine, they may be limited in their ideas about Portugal. Yes, Portugal is home to rich, luscious dessert-worthy Port, but the country also produces a wide range of still and sparkling wines. In fact, Portugal has a 2,000-year history of winemaking. Moreover, when Portugal joined the EU in the mid-80s, winemakers were given access to EU funds that permitted them to invest in, and ultimately improve, their vineyards and wineries. And, the wines are still relatively inexpensive, meaning that you can enjoy a great bottle of wine at a great price!

Within Portugal, there are 13 regions that cover the full geography of the country, inclusive of its islands. Among these is Alentejo, just 90-minutes east of Lisbon, which is where the majority of cork comes from. Like the rest of the country, has a lengthy tenure in the wine world with its viticultural roots dating back to the Romans. It was further influenced by the Tartessians, the Phoenicians, and the Greeks.

The region of Alentejo and its 8 sub-regions.

Unfortunately, Alentejo was forced to uproot many of its vineyard under the Salazar dictatorship (1933-74) and replace them with wheat. Yet, despite this setback, the region has held onto its traditional winemaking practices and, aside from Georgia, is the only region where the use of amphorae has been utilized without interruption for several thousand years. In its current renaissance, the region has continued to focus on these traditional winemaking techniques such as the use of concrete casks and lagares.

Today, this relatively flat region is home to a hot, Mediterranean climate and boasts over 250 native grape varieties; the most prevalent being Antao Vaz, Arinto and Roupeiro among the whites and Alfrocheiro, Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, Castelao, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira among the reds. The international varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are also widely planted.

Additionally, Alentejo has been a big proponent of sustainable agriculture, earning international recognition (including the Drinks Business‘ Green Award 2020) for WASP (Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Program), members of which account for ~50% of Alentejo’s vineyard area. More specifically, the WASP program incorporates both agricultural and vinification aspects, but also includes an emphasis on reducing costs, increasing economic viability, environmental issues and social concerns.

With its twin emphasis on honoring its history and implementing forward-thinking practices, Alentejo wines are definitely ones to watch!

TASTING NOTES

Casa Relvas Herdade São Miguel Rosé 2020, SRP $15
Founded in 1997, Casa Relvas is a family winery with two generations currently involved. This lovely Provencal-style rose is produced from the indigenous Touriga Nacional, along with smaller quantities of Syrah, Aragonez and others. Pale onion skin in color, it has a lovely yeasty note on the nose thanks to its sur lie aging. It is redolent of unripe berries and melon and is dry, fresh, and clean on the palate with long length.

Cartuxa EA Red 2018, SRP $9
Initially founded in 1963, the Fundacao Eugenio de Almeida private foundation whose mission is to aid the development of the Evora region. Among its tasks, it is responsible for running the estate and winery, which has been in the Eugenio de Almeida family since the 19th century. This wine is a blend of 35% Aragonez, 30% Trincadeira, 20% Alicante Bouschet and 15% Syrah, and offers up jammy red fruit aromas, slight earth and menthol notes. On the palate, it is dry, very fruit forward with medium+ to full body, medium acidity, soft tannins, flavors of red fruit and earthy and good length.


Herdade do Rocim Amphora Tinto 2019, Alentejo, Portugal, SRP $18 The culmination of a dream, Herdade do Rocim was established by Fernando Pessoa whose estate includes both vineyards and olive groves. Produced from a blend of indigenous varieties (including Moreto, Tinta Grossa, Trincadeira and Aragonez), utilizing a large, clay pot in which to ferment the grapes, this wine draws on a 2,000+ year old tradition of amphora wines. The result is a beautifully complex wine with aromas of berries, cranberry, plum and slight spice. The dry palate displays good acidity, medium body, medium tannins, with lots of fresh red fruit and spice, culminating in long length.

Adega de Borba Premium Red 2017, $15
Created in 1955, Adega de Borba was among the first wineries to be part of the national wine planning agency (Junta Nacional do Winho) at a time when wine was less important to the area’s economy. Yet, with time, the winery has sustained itself to its current position of 300 grape growers who cultivate nearly 2,000 hectares of grapes, 70% dedicated to red varieties and 30% to white. The winery is situated with Borba, a sub-region of Alentejo and is home to some of the oldest vines in the area. Bringing together Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouscht and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine offers up lots of red fruit and spice, which persist on the full-bodied palate and are joined by notes of oak and darker fruit, with long length.

CARMIM Monsaraz Reserva Red 2018, SRP $16
The well-respected Cooperativa Agrícola de Reguengos de Monsaraz (aka CARMIM) was created in 1971 and currently counts 900 growers among its membership. With 24 different wines produced, it has quite a diverse portfolio. The wine has a pronounced nose of meat, smoke and red and black fruit that gives way to a dry palate with medium acidity, full body, robust black raspberry, oak, smoke and long length.

NB: All of the above wineries are members of WASP.