Fortified wines aren’t very well known among most consumers, And, no, it has nothing to do with vitamins. Rather, the fortification comes in the form of the addition of a grape-based spirit to raise the alcohol level and consequently halt the fermentation process. As a result, some of the sweetness in the wine remains instead of being fully converted to alcohol as would be the case with a dry wine.
While Port, Sherry and Madeira are more recognizable in this category, Pineau des Charentes is definitely deserving of consideration. It hails from the Charente and Charente-Maritime regions of France, which is where Cognac is made and has had Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status since 1945, which guarantees quality and an adherence to minimum production requirements.
In particular, it must be aged for at least 18 months, 12 of which must be spent in oak. Wines designated as “old” must age for a minimum of seven years, while the “very old” must age for 12 years. Produced from Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Folle Blanche and other local grape varieties, it shares many similarities with Cognac, but are generally sweet wines, with an alcohol level of 17% (compared to 40% proof Cognac).
Not surprisingly, with its freshness and lower alcohol, it is well suited to cocktails. In fact, it is quite versatile and diverse in its expression, yielding a wide range of options. These wines can also be enjoyed on their own and can be a great pairing throughout the meal – not just with dessert – despite their sweetness. Rather, they are quite food friendly, a point made abundantly clear at a recent dinner at l’Accolade in New York City’s West Village neighborhood.
Presided over by Ms. Franky Marshall, who bills herself as a modern bartender, the evening got off to a great start with a Pineau & Tonic with thyme and grapefruit, which beautifully displayed the freshness, balance and aromatics of this wine. Franky has been working with Pineau des Charentes since 2017, and, once we were seated, paired each dish with a different Pineau option. In this fashion, she joked that we were “speed dating” the wines.
I was very impressed with the breadth and depth of what was in the glass and really enjoyed drinking the Pineaus with the meal.
With my Coconut Shrimp appetizer, prepared with coconut, peanut dressing and a pepper cabbage salad, I enjoyed two Pineau des Charentes. The first of which was distinctly floral with maple aromas and flavors, while the second option was more intense and heavier in its texture and weight on the palate. They each matched well, but I was more partial to the former, as a counterpoint to the dressing.
My main course of Monkfish served with zuchini, shrimp nage and mango puree was accompanied by one with caramel notes and a clean finish and another that was lighter, with bright acidity. Both were really lovely with the richness of the dish.
For dessert, I had the chocolate mousse with almondine, orange chocolate cake and almond puree. My Pineau pairings included a wine with light citrus notes that was medium sweet yet well balanced, with an herbal undercurrent. The other was more complex, with fuller body, caramel, burnt orange and rancio aromas and flavors, that had been aged for 15 years. The two wines paired really well, but the second wine was my favorite of the two for its complexity and rancio character.
If these wines are not on your radar (and likely they aren’t), I encourage you to seek them out or perhaps encourage your favorite bartender to try their hand at Pineau cocktails – for a twist on a classic or their own, new creation.
What’s your vice? For Malek Amrani and his wife, Tori Greenberg, the answer is wine. A former sales professional for Moet Hennessy and Diageo, Malek has a keen understanding of the wine world and consumer preferences. He also counts pizza and triathlons among his “moral faults”, while Tori’s other vices include fashion, sleep and rose.
The pair always dreamed of owning their own winery and now they do. In fact, while they launched The Vice several years ago, they recently opened a permanent location in St. Helena in the Napa Valley, further cementing their dream.
On the joint holidays of National Wine Day and National Chardonnay Day, Malek hosted a virtual tasting with members of the media to celebrate the opening as well as the release of their 100th wine. As a self-defined “luxury wine brand,” the wines are produced in small, numbered batches.
Primarily focused on Napa Valley terroir, The Vice’s mission is to make exceptional wines accessible. In pursuit of this goal, Malek currently works with 18 different varieties, sourced from 14 of Napa’s 16 AVAs. Their white label wines are their house tier, while the black label is reserved for single vineyard wines.
Among the most recent batches is the aforementioned 100th wine. Aptly named The Napa Dream (and also referred to as Batch #100), it is a Chardonnay sourced from a Certified Napa Green vineyard situated “at the far eastern edge of Los Carneros AVA”. It spent 30 months in new French Oak barrels.
TASTING NOTES
The Vice The Napa Dream Batch #100 Chardonnay 2020, Los Carneros (CA), USA, $46.00 This wine is deep golden yellow with nutty, butterscotch aromas that persist on the dry, rich full-bodied palate. It has bright acidity and flavors of roasted nuts, caramel, citrus and minerality, culminating in long length. Lovely and complex.
The Vice Orange of Viognier ‘Brooklynites 6.0’ 2022, California, USA, $33.00 With Viognier grapes sourced from Napa’s Oak Knoll District and Brentwood, Contra Costa, this wine brings together two different climates and thus a diversity of expression. It offers up floral and peach aromas, which persist on the palate with fresh acidity, medium body and long length. It is really refreshing, easy to drink (too easy!?!) and food friendly.
The Vice The OG, Cabernet Franc 2021, Los Carneros (CA), USA, $54.00 As Malek shared at the event, Cabernet Franc is fast becoming the hottest grape in Napa Valley (more so than Cabernet Sauvignon). Leafy and cranberry aromas greet the nose, with a dry palate, bright acidity, medium+ body and flavors of wet leaves and plum, with long length. Powerful, yet balanced.
As I’ve written before, the Malbec grape originated in France and is currently grown in Bordeaux, the Loire Valley and Cahors. But, despite Malbec’s association with France, it is planted in much greater numbers in Argentina. More specifically, Argentina’s long relationship with Malbec dates to 1853 when agronomist Michel Aimé Pouget brought the grape to from Europe to the New World country, having been hired to run an agricultural school there. In addition to the school’s influence, Argentina’s early viticulture was also shaped by Italian and French immigrants, who brought their grape growing experience and expertise with them.
Not surprisingly, I have had the opportunity to compare and contrast Malbec-based wines in the past, both with regard to producer as well as with regard to region of production (i.e. Argentina vs. France).
However, I recently had the particularly interesting chance to taste two Malbecs side-by-side, which differed markedly in winemaking approaches: traditional red wine production vs. carbonic maceration.
Traditional red wine production is fairly well known and understood by consumers, but carbonic maceration is less familiar, since it is mostly confined to the production of Beaujolais Noveau. Utilizing intracellular fermentation, carbonic maceration typically produces lighter style wines with a fresh fruit flavor profile. This was not a winemaking technique brought to bear on the Malbec grape… until now. In fact, there appears to be a trend among Argentine producers (see: this story) in using this unusual approach with Argentinian grapes.
Now, joining this small coterie of carbonic macerators, Domaine Bousquet has added its Gaia Nouveau Malbec to the mix. Produced with certified organic Malbec grapes, winemaker Rodrigo Serrano decided, “Why not try to make a carbonic maceration Malbec?” Answering his own question affirmatively, the first wine was made with the 2022 vintage to rave reviews.
The counter balance, with a more traditional approach, was Antigal’s Uno Malbec 2019, also made with organic Malbec grapes and produced solely in stainless steel tanks (no wood/oak influence).
I was previously introduced to Antigal in 2018 (see story). Obviously a lot has happened in the world since then, so it was a pleasure to receive a sample of the current vintage of this wine to reacquaint myself. Proudly bearing its metallic numeral 1 breast plate, this wine comes from Antigal’s Uno collection.
Domaine Bousquet Gaia Nouveau Malbec 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00 (100% Malbec, certified organic) This wine presents with fresh berry aromas. It is light bodied, with fresh berries and a hint of earth, with lively acidity and bright freshness on the dry palate with long length.
Antigal Uno Malbec 2019, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00 (100% Malbec, organic grapes) This wine has a pronounced nose with black and blue fruit, spice and vanilla, which persist on the dry palate, with ripe, medium-firm tannins, culminating with medium+ length.
Earth Day has come and gone, but while the holiday is a reminder that we must protect and cherish our planet, a single day is obviously not enough to do so. To a very real and certain extent, EVERY day should be Earth Day!
Although we can find fault with many industries and organizations, within the world of wine, there are a number of important and impressive examples of wine regions and individual wineries who are making the investment and having an impact with their actions.
In particular, Domaine Bousquet stands as a beacon, having been organic from the “get go”. Along these lines, winery owner, Anne Bouquet refers to herself as an “Organic Revolutionary” and an “International Citizen”, both of which are well deserved and apt descriptors of her commitment to sustainability in all that they do. She is joined by lead winemaker, Rodrigo Serrano, in their quest to lead the region in organic viticulture and sustainability efforts. This “teacher’s soul” has been at the winery for the past five years, and is truly passionate about details in achieving these overarching goals.
The winery has been Certified Organic for over 25 years and has also been certified by Demeter and Biodyvin for its conversion to biodynamic viticulture. They have recently added ROC (regenerative organic certification) certification to their list of organic certifications and are 360 sustainable.
Equally telling, as of this year (2023), they are now a certified B Corp organization. “B Corp Certification is a designation that a business is meeting high standards of verified performance, accountability, and transparency on factors from employee benefits and charitable giving to supply chain practices and input materials.” (From B Lab) Some of their wines also are certified as organic Kosher, Vegan and Gluten-free.
Yet, they are not content to rest on their laurels; future endeavors seek to reduce their CO2 and H2O footprints, especially as there is less snow in the mountains due to climate change.
The winery is also expanding its focus to address other issues such as making low calorie wine, low alcohol wine and organic wine (as opposed to making wine with organic grapes, but with conventional winemaking). In this regard, the biggest challenge is to avoid using SO2, which is an antioxidant and anti-microbial, among other things. These expansions have been challenging, but rewarding as the results are finally realized in the glass.
Across the pond, the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano consortium in Italy’s Tuscany region has been similarly hard at work in pushing a sustainability agenda. The result of its hard work was its award of the Equalitas standard’s sustainability certification, making it the first (and currently only) Italian wine denomination to achieve this milestone. The certification trademark extends to the entire region and is the result of a program initially implemented in the early 1990s and then built upon over the years.
To receive this prestigious certification entails “compliance with a high number of environmental requirements (like biodiversity and the measuring of carbon and water footprints) and socio-economic requirements (like verifying that the principles of freedom of association and equal opportunity are respected).”
Among these efforts, in 2006, the consortium partnered with the municipal government to collect organic waste from the vineyards for use in the production of combustion biomass to supply energy to school and government buildings. Further, the region’s Carbon Footprint project became a national model in 2015.
Of course, these commitments are not at the expense of their commitment to making high quality wine. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is among Italy’s top designated wines having been promoted to DOCG status in 1980. Yet, it often gets overshadowed by its Tuscan neighbors: Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, whose wines also sport the Sangiovese grape.
The good news is that these wines are often well priced and provide great drinking pleasure. So you can feel good about their commitments to the Earth as you enjoy swirling, sipping and savoring them in your glass.
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES: Domaine Bousquet
Domaine Bousquet LO CA Chardonnay 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $14.00 LO CA is a local calorie and low alcohol wine, which required numerous attempts to get it right due to ensure a wine that was stable and of the quality they desired. The resulting wine has 9% abv and 2% residual sugar. Green apple, musk and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate with high acidity, minerality, medium body and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Virgin Red Blend 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $13.00 A combination of 35% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Cabernet Franc, this wine is USDA-certified organic and sulfite-free. A fresh and easy drinking wine, it offers up berries, plum, floral and black cherry, with medium acidity, medium body and good length.
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Pinot Noir 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00 Made with certified organic grapes, this wine took many years to perfect since Anne is very particular about her Pinot Noir. The time and effort were worth it with its complex aromas of smoke, tart cherry, and an earthy undertone. It is medium bodied with bright acidity and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Gran Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00 A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec (both of which are certified organic), this wine presents notes of vanilla, oak, black fruit and a slight leaf character on the nose. With Medium+ body, good acidity, firm ripe tannins, and black and blue fruit, it is ripe yet dry, culminating in long length.
TASTING NOTES: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
A recent walk-around tasting event provided attendees with the opportunity to taste through a collection of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines as well as meet a few of the winery representatives.
Maria Stella Carletti, Winemaker at POLIZIANO Winery
Here are a few of my favorites (notes are limited):
Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy 95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot Fresh, with decidedly herbal characteristics, firmer tannins and floral notes.
Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2018, Tuscany, Italy Sangiovese, Canaiolo and other authorized grapes Meatier, with really nice depth and riper fruit.
Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy 70% Sangiovese and other red grape varieties Floral, powerful, with darker fruit, less tannic than some of the other wines.
Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy 90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino With complex notes of smoke, oak, black fruit, it has a lighter structure and texture, with a distinct cherry and leafy palate.
La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy Sangiovese, Merlot Rich and ripe with dark cherry aromas and flavors, firm tannins.
La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2018, Tuscany, Italy Sangiovese, Mammolo Floral with lush, ripe red fruit, soft tannins and long length.
Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy 90-95% Sangiovese, 5-10% other grapes, including Canaiolo and Colorino Cherry and plum, with dusty tannins, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.
Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano S. Caterina 2019, Tuscany, Italy 100% Sangiovese Intense nose and palate, with ripe red fruit and long length.
Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggio Stella 2017, Tuscany, Italy mostly Sangiovese Lovely and soft, with cherries, berries and vanilla.
Spring has been a long time coming this year. While Mother Nature graced us with a beautiful glimpse of picture-perfect weather in early April, the cold, wet weeks that followed left much to be desired. We are now happy to see the sun and feel its warmth, beckoning us outside. In a word (or more precisely two), it’s Picnic Season!
That means a lot of things, but chief among them is what wines to enjoy al fresco this spring and summer. In that regard, I recently had the very pleasant opportunity to taste through a selection of wines from Spanish wine producer, Hammeken Cellars. With Sailé Ramirez at the helm as CEO, the company has launched six new brands and planted over 250,000 trees as part of their sustainability program.
In fact, during that spring preview weekend in April, my husband and I had a picnic date night in Fort Tryon Park, toting along two rosés from their collection: Radio Boka Rosé and Sedosa Rosé.
Outside was no longer an option for a while, so the Radio Boka Verdejo was enjoyed indoors at the dining table, but the Gotas de Mar Albarino was a welcome companion as I introduced my friend, Sharon, to the joys of fancy picnics when we met up in Prospect Park for lunch and a production of Molière’s Tartuffe.
In keeping with the theme of freshness and al fresco dining, I’m including tasting notes from a recent seminar with Domaine Bousquet, since several of its current releases are also perfect picnic pairings, particularly, their sparkling rose and LO CA Chardonnay.
TASTING NOTES
WHITES
Radio Boka Verdejo 2021, VDT Castilla, Spain, $12.00 Aromas of bitter almond, pear, and citrus on both the nose and palate, this complex wine offers up medium body, medium acidity and long length.
Gotas de Mar Albariño 2022, Rias Baixas, Spain, $25.00 Produced from 100% Albariño from 15-25 year old vines, this wine was aged for six months on its lees. Notes of citrus and riper tree fruit are joined by minerality and salinity, with medium body, good acidity and long length.
Domaine Bousquet LO CA Chardonnay 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $14.00 LO CA is a local calorie and low alcohol wine, which required numerous attempts to get it right due to ensure a wine that was stable and of the quality they desired. The resulting wine has 9% abv and 2% residual sugar. Green apple, musk and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate with high acidity, minerality, medium body and long length.
ROSÉS
2021 Radio Boka Rosé, VDT Castilla, Spain, $12.00 Tasted alongside the Sedosa rosé, this wine was less ripe, with slightly higher acidity. It is redolent of fresh raspberries and citrus, with medium body and long length.
Sedosa Organic Rosé 2021, VDT Castilla, Spain, $20.00 Comprised of 100% Bobal from 15 year old vines, this wine is pale salmon in color with aromas of berries, and melon and a hint of floral. The dry palate provides ripe fresh berries, good acidity and long length.
Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose NV, Uco Valley, Argentina, $13.00 This sparkling wine is produced using the Charmat Method, bringing together 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. Deep salmon in color, with a persistent bead, it is fresh and lively with tart cherry notes, a lovely mousse and long length.
While the clouds kept the sun at bay, the view from the Ritz Carlton’s 50th floor was no less stunning. Lower Manhattan as well as Lady Liberty herself were visible just beyond the array of wine glasses as we waited for the tasting event to start.
Here, at Chef José Andrés’ latest NYC outpost, Nubeluz, a unique opportunity to taste the history of Rioja was proffered by Mercedes García Rupérez, Chief Winemaker for Bodegas Montecillo and Paco Fernandez, Area Manager for Bodegas Osborne.
Established in 1870 by the Navajas family and located in the heart of the Rioja region, Bodegas Montecillo is the third oldest winery in Rioja. It was the first winery in Fuenmayor and was named for the small mountain nearby (montecillo literally translates as small mountain). In 1973, Bodegas Montecillo’s third generation winemaker, Jose Luis Navajas, had no descendants and looked to collaborate with Bodegas Osborne as a way of carrying on the winery’s legacy. Hence, Paco Fernandez’s presence at the event. Yet, despite the change in ownership, the winery continues to maintain its strong and proud heritage as it also seeks to maintain its relevance into the far future.
Now at Montecillo for almost 15 years, Mercedes previously spent 16 years at Osborne’s Malpica Estate and vineyards in Chile prior to her arrival in Rioja. When she was first brought on as winemaker, Bodegas Montecillo only specialized in classically styled Rioja. After ensuring the high quality of the existing wines, she turned her attention to expanding the winery’s repertoire to include more modern styles as well. Regardless of the style, like many premium producers, she generally exceeds the minimums in making her wines.
Of note was the beautiful pairing of food and wine, displaying the food friendly, versatile nature of the wines. Although Nubeluz doesn’t typically serve much in the way of food, we were treated to some of the highest quality Serrano ham and other delicious fare. .
In particular, the first Course featured Croquetas de Jamón, Pan Con Tomate, Tomato Goat Cheese Cone and Josés Taco (nori, caviar, jamon and gold leaf). The second Course was a choice between Grilled Seasonal Vegetables with Romesco and China’s Sweetest Tomato Salad. For the third course, I chose the Solomillo Jamon Confit Piquillos. Dessert was a selection of Chef Victor’s Sweet Cones: Smores, mont blanc (caramel milk cream), dulce de leche, and thai basil.
As the tasting underscored, there is a real and distinct history to the company and its wines. They can clearly withstand the test of time, given their excellent quality and aging potential. As a further example of their ageability, Mercedes and Rocio graciously shared one of the few remaining bottles of the Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial 1973 with us. It was also enlightening to be able to compare and contrast the classic and modern wines, finding something to enjoy about each of them. Moreover, it showed that the winery remains au current as it moves into its next chapter.
TASTING NOTES
Singladuras Albariño 2021, Rias Baixas, Spain, $20/bottle Produced from 100% Albarino, this wine undergoes batonage to add depth and complexity to the wine and spends time in the bottle before release to soften the acidity. With aromas of citrus, pith, slight yeast, and minerality, it has bright acidity, medium body, and long length. It is extremely fresh, with a lovely salinity on the palate due to the influence of, and proximity to, the Atlantic Ocean.
Bodegas Montecillo Reserva 2014, Rioja, Spain, $20/bottle A classic style Rioja, with an eye toward producing a complete and balanced wine, this brings together 92% Tempranillo and 8% Mazuelo, which are aged for 24 months in mixed oak barrels (65% French and 35% American). Notes of smoke, oak, strawberry/berries greet the nose. It is dry, with medium+ body, medium acidity, medium, grainy tannins, are joined by spice, vanilla, and marmalade fruit, culminating in long length.
Bodegas Montecillo Gran Reserva 2010, Rioja, Spain, $40/bottle Another classically-styled wine, Mercedes notes her aim in crafting the Gran Reserva is elegance. Hailing from a great vintage, this blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Graciano, is sourced from vines with an average age of 40 years. The wine is aged for 28 months in oak barrels (a combination of French and American) and then rests in bottle for at least 4 years before release. It offers a shy nose, with dark red fruit, dried spice and vanilla, which persist on the palate. Its ripe tannins are firmer than the Reserva 2014, with good acidity and very long length. It can definitely age further.
Bodegas Montecillo Edición Limitada 2016, Rioja, Spain, $25-27/bottle Stepping out of the traditional mold, Mercedes’ intention with the Edicion Limitada is to produce a different and more modern wine with more fruit and less oak. Comprised of 70% Tempranillo and 30% Graciano, this grapes for this wine come from 40-year-old vines from two special, high altitude plots. After fermentation, it is aged for 25 months in oak and then aged in bottle for another two years. An intense nose of strawberry and blackberry with firm, ripe tannins, fresh acidity, medium+ body, a slight herbal note and long length. It was fruitier than the previous two wines with a softer palate.
Bodegas Montecillo 22 Barricas Gran Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain, $50/bottle Another modern style wine, the 22 Barricas is only made in great vintages such as 2010 and 2015. Mercedes first made this wine by hiding 22 barrels (thus, its name) from the winery owner to take a new approach. All of the grapes (a blend of 50% Tempranillo, 25% Graciano, 15% Garnacha and 10% Mazuelo) are hand harvested and the wine is aged in barrel for 32 months before resting in bottle for at least 38 months. A pronounced nose of vanilla and dark, lush fruit. This wine displays firm tannins – needs time to develop, intense fruit on the palate as well, and, overall, is beautiful and elegant, with long length.
Bodegas Montecillo Gran Reserva Selección Especial 2005 Rioja, Spain, $200/bottle With only a very small quantity produced, this wine was made in honor of the winery’s 150th anniversary. The 70% Tempranillo, 20% Graciano and 10% Maturana Tinta were barrel aged for 62 months and rested in bottle for more than 9 years. It offers up aromas of dried flowers, dried herbs and dried red fruit, joined by flavors of coffee and spice on the beautifully complex palate. It is dry with a sweet attack, still firm, yet ripe, tannins, and long length.
Bodegas Montecillo Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial 1973, Rioja, Spain, N/A Made from 100% Tempranillo sourced from vines with an average age of 50 years, this is the last vintage made by the founding Navajas family. Sweet nose of faded flowers, particularly dried rose, slight spice, faded fruit of dried raspberries, this is a beautifully elegant wine, with long length.
I’ve sung the praises of Domaine Bousquet in the past (See this article and that) and its wines continue to impress. Among the top export wines of Argentina, Domaine Bousquet continues to be the country’s leader in organic wines.
More specifically, Domaine Bousquet has been dedicated to organic viticulture since its very beginning. Today, there continues to be a clear and significant commitment to such activities.
These are well-made wines, available at a reasonable price, and are definitely great go-to wines you can feel confident to serve at your table or to gift to friends and family.
Tasting Notes
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Certified Organic Chardonnay 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, SRP $18 It was fresh and unoaked, with apple and citrus aromas and flavors, bright acidity, medium + body and long length. Overall, it was simply lovely and a big hit at our condo’s holiday party.
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Certified Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina SRP $18 With its intense nose of blackberry, pepper and oak, this wine displays good acidity, medium tannins, medium body and a slight woody note before culminating in long length. It is easy to drink and very enjoyable.
Domaine Bousquet Reserve Certified Organic Malbec 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina SRP $18 Lush dark berry fruit greets the nose, with a fresh palate, medium body, ripe tannins and a hint of spice in the finish, with long length. This was the perfect pairing with bison (our freezer is stocked with tons of bison thanks to a Costco delivery courtesy of my mom).
These wines may be purchased online or at a retailer near you.
Home to the wine-savvy Thomas Jefferson, Virginia saw the early development of viticulture within its borders during colonial times. However, like many places in America, the true creation of a wine industry in Virginia primarily dates to the 1970s, with significant growth occurring during the 1990s. (For a more in depth look at the state’s vinous history, see: Virginia’s Great American Wine Story).
While still fairly small in comparison to states like California and Washington, Virginia is currently crafting high quality wines with its 300 wineries currently spanning over 4,000 acres of grapes, 10 wine regions and 8 AVAs.
As Virginia wine rose to prominence within the state, the Virginia Governor’s Cup was founded. “…[O] ne of the most stringent competitions in the U.S., [it] is hosted by the Virginia Wineries Association in partnership with the Virginia Wine Board and the Virginia Vineyards Association.”
Directed by Jay Youmans, MW, the Governor’s Cup competition consists of Cider Judges (cider was added as its own category as of 2021), Preliminary Judges and Final Judges, with the wines judged on appearance, aroma, flavor, overall quality and commercial suitability. At the conclusion of Stage I: The Preliminary Round, the wines are then tasted and scored by the judges in Stage II: The Final Round. The top 12 wines with the highest average score earn the distinction of Governor’s Cup Case, while the wine with the highest overall score is named Virginia Governor’s Cup winner.
In 2022, the 40th year of this competition, the winners of the Governor’s Cup Case included:
50 West Vineyards 2019 Ashby Gap
Barboursville Vineyards 2020
Vermentino Reserve
Cana Vineyards and Winery of
Middleburg 2019 LeMariage
Cana Vineyards and Winery of
Middleburg 2019 Unitè Reserve *
Maggie Malick Wine Caves 2020
Albariño
Michael Shaps Wineworks 2019 Chardonnay
Pollak Vineyards 2017 Meritage
Rockbridge Vineyard 2018 V d’Or
Shenandoah Vineyards 2019 Reserve
Red
Stinson Vineyards 2017 Meritage
Trump Winery 2015 Brut Reserve
Wisdom Oak Winery 2019 NINETEEN
*Virginia Governor’s Cup Winner
Beyond those above, numerous wines were awarded Gold, Silver and Bronze medals, depending on the score received.
This formal evaluation of Virginia wines gives praise to those wines and wineries that are raising the vinous bar in the state. The corresponding Virginia Governor’s Cup Gala, held in Richmond, VA, provides a fundraising effort in support of the V Foundation’s cancer research as well as an opportunity for the public to taste through the Gold medal winners for 2023! Tickets are available online.
I recently had the opportunity to taste through a selection of the winning wines, as well as bottles from Early Mountain Vineyards. To help me out, I enlisted the assistance of a friend who happily obliged, as we tasted our way through the assortment of whites and reds. We were impressed by what was in our glass and only lamented that the economics of Virginia viticulture (similar to that of Long Island and other boutique regions) necessitates a price point of $30 and up. Yet despite these higher price points, they are worth it and worth seeking out.
Maggie Malick Wine Caves, Albariño 2020, Hillsboro, VA, $36.00 An aerospace engineer, Maggie Malick first embraced wine as a hobby in 2004. By 2011, her wines were winning awards at amateur competitions, prompting her to establish a commercial winery. Named Loudoun’s Winemaker of the Year for 2021, she and her husband, Mark, maintain 30 acres of vineyard, planted to 15 different grape varieties. Her Albariño 2020 is 100% Albarino, fermented and aged solely in stainless steel. This wine has a pronounced nose of citrus and stone fruits, with bright acidity and green apple, lemon oil and pith notes on the medium-bodied palate, with long length. http://www.maggiemalickwinecaves.com
Michael Shaps Wineworks, Chardonnay 2019, Monticello AVA (Charlottesville, VA), $28.00 After studying enology and viticulture in Burgundy, France, Michael Shaps spent a year working in that region before settling in Charlottesville. After serving as winemaker for Jefferson Vineyards, Shaps began producing his own label in 2000. Not surprisingly given his background, this 100% Chardonnay was produced using Burgundian methods, with fermentation in new and used French oak barrels, along with lees stirring and malolactic fermentation. This wine has a decidedly fresh palate, with citrus and apple aromas, along with minerality and luscious buttery notes, with full body and long length. https://www.virginiawineworks.com/
Stinson Vineyards, Meritage 2017, Monticello AVA (Crozet, VA) $37.00 Initially produced by Scott Stinson and his daughter, Rachel Stinson Vrooman, they were joined by Rachel’s husband Nathan Vrooman in 2015. They take their inspiration from French winemaking practices, with a focus on complexity and an elegant expression of the grapes. As a Meritage wine, this is a Bordeaux-style blend. Specifically, it brings together 50% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Petit Verdot. Aged in 20-50% new oak barrels for 15 months before being blended. Red and black fruit greet the nose with leafy notes, dusty tannins and medium+ body, culminating in long length. https://stinsonvineyards.com
Wisdom Oak Winery, Nineteen 2019, Monticello AVA (North Garden, VA) $37.00 Owner and self-taught winemaker, Jason Lavallee, established Wisdom Oak Winery in 2016, growing his own grapes and making wine through a process of trial and error. Aged in a combination of new Virginia oak barrels and neutral oak, the 50% Petit Verdot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon blend offers up red fruit, spice, oak on the nose and palate. It has medium+ ripe tannins and full body, displaying a more angular, structural wine with warmth and long length. https://www.wisdomoakwinery.com
Early Mountain Vineyards Although not part of the Governor’s Cup case, Early Mountain’s wines are finding their footing at top restaurants nationwide. For example, coincidentally in October, I dined at NYC’s Luthun restaurant and, at the sommelier’s recommendation, enjoyed a glass of the Early Mountain Petit Manseng. Thus, it was a pleasant surprise to have the opportunity to taste it again as part of this sampling experience.
Initially planted in 2005 by Jess and Sharon Sweely, the Early Mountain property was purchased in 2010 by Jean Case and her husband, Steve. Two years later, they re-opened under the Early Mountain brand, expanding acreage to include Quaker Run Vineyard in 2015 and increasing their emphasis on Bordeaux grape varieties. https://www.earlymountain.com/
Early Mountain Vineyards, Petit Manseng 2020, Virginia, $30.00 Winner of a Silver Medal in the Governor’s Cup, this wine comprises 93% Petit Manseng, 4% Pinot Gris and 3% Chardonnay. It was fermented in a combination of oak vessels, large Acacia and concrete. Deep in color, with apricot, spice and nut aromas and flavors, the wine is full bodied with long length.
Early Mountain Vineyards, Foothills 2021, Virginia, $27.00 During our tasting, we affectionately referred to this wine as the “kitchen sink” given the lengthy and varied blend of 28% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Petit Verdot, 8% Tanat, 8% Petit Manseng, and 5% Cabernet Franc. With black, juicy fruit, bright acidity and medium body, the wine is fresh and easy drinking.
Early Mountain Vineyards, Shenandoah Valley Cabernet Franc 2021, Virginia, $30.00 This 100% Cabernet Franc is produced with fruit sourced exclusively from the Shenandoah Valley and, in particular, the Shenandoah Springs Vineyard and Baer Ridge Vineyard. Aromas of smoke, mulberry and wet leaves persist on the dry palate with good acidity, medium+ body and long length. The 2020 vintage earned a Silver Medal in the Governor’s Cup.
I’ve noticed an interesting trend recently of food and wine products banding together to take their message to the masses. Case in point, the Charming Taste of Europe Consortium dinner I attended a few weeks ago. I think this is a great idea and, frankly, it makes a lot of sense since it can be challenging to showcase a single product and moreover, we don’t eat and drink in a vacuum.
This type of collaborative effort was also seen at the Mediterranean Aperitivo event, which was held at Eataly Flatiron’s winter wonderland rooftop in mid-December. As I was unable to attend, the organizers offered me the opportunity to recreate the festivities at home and I happily accepted.
Admittedly unsure what to expect, I was pleasantly surprised to receive a cute package revealing Vermouth di Torino PGI, Pecorino Toscana PDO, a Costa d’Amalfi PGI Lemon and Greek olives, along with an informative guide. You’ll spot a lot of letters in the above product names and that’s both intentional and important.
Specifically, PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) are legal terms that mean that the products have been deemed by the European Union to be of high quality and of particular connection to a territory or geographical area. Much like Champagne (a sparkling wine that only comes from the Champagne region in France), these labels signal to the consumer that this is a special product coming from a very specific place.
Vermouth di Torino PGI: While many people are familiar with vermouth in the context of a martini, they may not know precisely what vermouth is. It is, in fact, an aromatized wine. In this regard, a local wine has been infused with local, aromatic plants. Think of it as the gin of wine! Vermouth is commonly produced in alpine areas and Piedmont’s Torino, at the foothills of the Alps, is no exception. The region’s vermouth developed its stellar reputation in the 18th century and has continued to uphold the same standards and receive continued recognition.
While the guide suggested making a classic martini, paired with the enclosed Greek olives, our household was a bit shy of the required quantities of either gin or vodka at that moment. Instead, I opted to mix up a slightly altered version of the guide’s other recipe, Contessa of Piedmont, substituting the sweet vermouth for the dry and Campari for the Aperol. It was well balanced and delicious with floral and botanical notes!
Pecorino Toscano PDO: While pecorino is a general term for cheese produced from sheep’s milk, Pecorino Toscano PDO hails specifically from sheep’s milk produced in Tuscany and a few municipalities in Umbria and Lazio. It can be made as a soft or semi-hard cheese, depending on the maturation (20 days and four months minimums, respectively). It was relatively mild and slightly salty, with nice richness.
Costa d’Amalfi PGI: Groves for the Costa d’Amalfi PGI lemons were first planted between the 10th and 12th centuries along the coast from Positano and Cetara in Campania. Interestingly, these should not be confused with the lemons of Sorrento, which have their own PGI and are a different variety of lemon. The Costa d’Amalfi lemons are quite large, weighing a minimum of 100 grams and are less acidic than the typical, store-bought lemon. These lemons frequently find their way into limoncello, but as was evidenced by enjoying it on its own, they are great in their unadulterated form, with freshness, beautiful fragrance and bright acidity.
Greek olives: Finally, we have the olives produced in Western Greece, which has a biblical history of olive groves. Formal cultivation of olives within Greece dates to 3500-2500 BCE. Today, the area is home to 150 million olive trees, 600,000 olive farmers and 2,800 mills. The type of olives wasn’t specified, but I suspect them to be Kalamata olives, with their intense briny, acidic and salty flavors.
After making my cocktail and plating up the cheese, olives and crackers, I sat down to enjoy a wonderful collection of tastes and flavors, all of which proved to be a perfect pairing. Overall, I encountered lots of freshness on the plate and in the glass. The next time you are shopping for various ingredients, reward your palate by seeking out the unique products that are produced in very special places. Salut!
Looking for some new wines to grace your holiday table this season? Or, just want to expand your wine knowledge? Check out the dry wines from Abruzzo and the sweet wines from Bordeaux!
A recent dinner at Lincoln Ristorante welcomed members of the wine press and trade in an effort to better acquaint us with the wines from Abruzzo (Italy) and the sweet wines from Bordeaux (France). This was a wonderful opportunity to reconnect with colleagues after a lengthy hiatus as well as taste through a selection of amazing wines (and delicious food).
Prior to the evening, I had only limited exposure to the wines from Abruzzo, mostly aware of its Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines, but the meal provided a much more in-depth look at the region and the high quality wines it produces.
An historic region, the wines from Abruzzo were mentioned by Pliny the elder. In particular, the centrally located Abruzzo is home to both the Adriatic Sea as well as steep mountains (65% of the region is mountainous and 30% of the land is protected by natural parks) and has a mild climate that becomes more continental in character as one moves inland. Consequently, one can ski during the day and then be at the sea within 30 minutes.
Wine production includes 2 DOCG-level wines, 7 DOCs and 7 IGT (regional) wines. As with elsewhere in Italy, co-ops are very important to the scene, but there are also 200 private wineries in Abruzzo.
Here, the two main varieties are the two already mentioned: the red Montepulciano, which accounts for 80% of production and the white Trebbiano, which is the second most planted grape in the region. This latter variety dates to the 16th century and is considered to be a more more elegant version of the Trebbiano variety, and has the ability to age well.
Another grape of note in the region is Pecorino, which had almost become extinct, but thankfully has had a revival. Grown in both the Le Marche and Abruzzo regions, it is a variety with great acidity, structure and good aging potential.
We next enjoyed a Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, which, when established in 2010, was the first designation in Italy dedicated exclusively to rosé wine. The word cerasuolo refers to the deep pink color of these wines, which are produced from the Montepulciano grape.
Finally, we had a Riserva-level Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which displayed the beauty of these wines, which have elegance and powerful, along with good fruit character, complexity, balance and length.
After our foray into the Abruzzian wines, we turned our attention to dessert. As their name implies, the Sweet Wines of Bordeaux offer up beautiful sweetness in the glass and make for a perfect liquid dessert. Yet, they are versatile enough to pair with savory foods as well, with bright acidity and balance accompanying the sweet notes. At dinner, one had a choice between a cheese course or a chocolate-based dessert, both of which paired equally well with the two Bordeaux wines.
Bordeaux’s sweet wines feature the grape varieties of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and (in some cases) Muscadelle and are produced in several styles as well as several different appellations.
The Bordeaux Moelleux are among the lighter-style wines with nice freshness and sweetness. Conversely, those produced as Bordeaux Supérieur are fuller-bodied, can include Muscadelle in the cepage and are aged for a period of 6 to 18 months in wood vessels.
Additionally, Côtes de Bordeaux Saint-Macaire, covers a geographic area along the right bank of the Garonne River, while Premières Côtes de Bordeaux is used for those made from grapes grown in the vineyards of 39 towns that extend across the right bank of the Garonne river located south of Bordeaux.
However, the wines from the more specific appellations are the ones perhaps best compared with their siblings from Sauternes. In this regard are the wines from Cadillac, Cérons, Loupiac and Saint-Croix-Du-Mont. The Cadillac appellation (AOC) was established in 1972, while Cérons AOC dates to 1936. The Cadillac wines are produced from late harvest grapes, while grapes for Cerons are affected by noble rot. Regardless, both adhere to strict selections during harvest, all of which is done by hand, with the wines aged for 12 to 18 months. Two other well-regarded appellations are Loupiac, which is the largest of them all, and Saint-Croix-Du-Mont, both of which are produced similarly to Cadillac and Cérons.
While these may not be familiar names to you, the bottom line is that one should keep Bordeaux in mind when it comes to the dessert course.
In this day and age, we are blessed to have access to a wealth of wonderful wines from all over the world, but it is easy to fall into a rut and reach for the same wines time and again. If that sounds like you, I urge you to step out of your comfort zone and explore these two sets of wines; your palate will thank you!
Wishing you all the best for the holiday season and beyond!
TASTING NOTES
Nic Tartaglia Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy Aromas and flavors of pear and white flowers, with bright acidity, medium body, and long length. Paired with Long Island Fluke Crudo or Misticanza Salad
Fontefico La Canaglia Pecorino d’Abruzzo Superiore DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy As a wine with the Superiore designation, it has been aged for one year, but, in this case, in stainless steel, not wood. Notes of apricot and smoke greet the nose, with a dry palate of medium acidity, medium+ body, culminating in long length. Paired with Risotto.
Velenosi Prope Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy Beautiful in color, this wine offers up fresh berries and zippy acidity, with good minerality, It is complex and structured, with medium+ body and is much more substantial on the palate than a Provencal-style rose. Good length. Paired with Branzino or Dry Age Strip Loin.
Masciarelli Villa Gemma Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Riserva 2017, Abruzzo, Italy Intense nose of red and black fruit, with firm, yet ripe tannins, this wine was aged for 24 24 months before release. It had lovely complexity, good fruit and very long length. Paired with Branzino or Dry Age Strip Loin.
Chateau de Garbes Cuvee Fut de chene Cadillac AOC 2019, Bordeaux, France Produced from old vines, this wine was aged for 12 months in oak. It was luscious, with good acidity to balance the sweetness and notes of apricot and other stone fruit. Paired with Cheese (Aged Parmesan) or Pinola Al Cioccolato.
Chateau Loupiac-Gaudiet Loupiac AOC 2017, Bordeaux, France Made from botrytized grapes (90% Semillion; 10% Sauvignon Blanc) from 45-year-old vines, this wine displays lovely fruit, spice and vanilla, culminating in long length. Paired with Cheese (Aged Parmesan) or Pinola Al Cioccolato.
