Author Archives: Tracy

Where everyday is Earth Day…Domaine Bousquet and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

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Earth Day has come and gone, but while the holiday is a reminder that we must protect and cherish our planet, a single day is obviously not enough to do so. To a very real and certain extent, EVERY day should be Earth Day!

Although we can find fault with many industries and organizations, within the world of wine, there are a number of important and impressive examples of wine regions and individual wineries who are making the investment and having an impact with their actions.

In particular, Domaine Bousquet stands as a beacon, having been organic from the “get go”. Along these lines, winery owner, Anne Bouquet refers to herself as an “Organic Revolutionary” and an “International Citizen”, both of which are well deserved and apt descriptors of her commitment to sustainability in all that they do. She is joined by lead winemaker, Rodrigo Serrano, in their quest to lead the region in organic viticulture and sustainability efforts. This “teacher’s soul” has been at the winery for the past five years, and is truly passionate about details in achieving these overarching goals.

The winery has been Certified Organic for over 25 years and has also been certified by Demeter and Biodyvin for its conversion to biodynamic viticulture. They have recently added ROC (regenerative organic certification) certification to their list of organic certifications and are 360 sustainable.

Equally telling, as of this year (2023), they are now a certified B Corp organization. “B Corp Certification is a designation that a business is meeting high standards of verified performance, accountability, and transparency on factors from employee benefits and charitable giving to supply chain practices and input materials.” (From B Lab) Some of their wines also are certified as organic Kosher, Vegan and Gluten-free.

Yet, they are not content to rest on their laurels; future endeavors seek to reduce their CO2 and H2O footprints, especially as there is less snow in the mountains due to climate change.

The winery is also expanding its focus to address other issues such as making low calorie wine, low alcohol wine and organic wine (as opposed to making wine with organic grapes, but with conventional winemaking). In this regard, the biggest challenge is to avoid using SO2, which is an antioxidant and anti-microbial, among other things. These expansions have been challenging, but rewarding as the results are finally realized in the glass.

Across the pond, the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano consortium in Italy’s Tuscany region has been similarly hard at work in pushing a sustainability agenda. The result of its hard work was its award of the Equalitas standard’s sustainability certification, making it the first (and currently only) Italian wine denomination to achieve this milestone. The certification trademark extends to the entire region and is the result of a program initially implemented in the early 1990s and then built upon over the years.

To receive this prestigious certification entails “compliance with a high number of environmental requirements (like biodiversity and the measuring of carbon and water footprints) and socio-economic requirements (like verifying that the principles of freedom of association and equal opportunity are respected).”

Among these efforts, in 2006, the consortium partnered with the municipal government to collect organic waste from the vineyards for use in the production of combustion biomass to supply energy to school and government buildings. Further, the region’s Carbon Footprint project became a national model in 2015.

Of course, these commitments are not at the expense of their commitment to making high quality wine. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is among Italy’s top designated wines having been promoted to DOCG status in 1980. Yet, it often gets overshadowed by its Tuscan neighbors: Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, whose wines also sport the Sangiovese grape.

The good news is that these wines are often well priced and provide great drinking pleasure. So you can feel good about their commitments to the Earth as you enjoy swirling, sipping and savoring them in your glass.

TASTING NOTES


TASTING NOTES: Domaine Bousquet

Domaine Bousquet LO CA Chardonnay 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $14.00
LO CA is a local calorie and low alcohol wine, which required numerous attempts to get it right due to ensure a wine that was stable and of the quality they desired. The resulting wine has 9% abv and 2% residual sugar. Green apple, musk and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate with high acidity, minerality, medium body and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Virgin Red Blend 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $13.00
A combination of 35% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Cabernet Franc, this wine is USDA-certified organic and sulfite-free. A fresh and easy drinking wine, it offers up berries, plum, floral and black cherry, with medium acidity, medium body and good length.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Pinot Noir 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00
Made with certified organic grapes, this wine took many years to perfect since Anne is very particular about her Pinot Noir. The time and effort were worth it with its complex aromas of smoke, tart cherry, and an earthy undertone. It is medium bodied with bright acidity and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gran Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00
A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec (both of which are certified organic), this wine presents notes of vanilla, oak, black fruit and a slight leaf character on the nose. With Medium+ body, good acidity, firm ripe tannins, and black and blue fruit, it is ripe yet dry, culminating in long length.

TASTING NOTES: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

A recent walk-around tasting event provided attendees with the opportunity to taste through a collection of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines as well as meet a few of the winery representatives.

Here are a few of my favorites (notes are limited):

Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot
Fresh, with decidedly herbal characteristics, firmer tannins and floral notes.

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2018, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Canaiolo and other authorized grapes
Meatier, with really nice depth and riper fruit.

Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy
70% Sangiovese and other red grape varieties
Floral, powerful, with darker fruit, less tannic than some of the other wines.

Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy
90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino
With complex notes of smoke, oak, black fruit, it has a lighter structure and texture, with a distinct cherry and leafy palate.

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Merlot
Rich and ripe with dark cherry aromas and flavors, firm tannins.

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2018, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Mammolo
Floral with lush, ripe red fruit, soft tannins and long length.

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
90-95% Sangiovese, 5-10% other grapes, including Canaiolo and Colorino
Cherry and plum, with dusty tannins, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano S. Caterina 2019, Tuscany, Italy
100% Sangiovese
Intense nose and palate, with ripe red fruit and long length.

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggio Stella 2017, Tuscany, Italy
mostly Sangiovese
Lovely and soft, with cherries, berries and vanilla.


Picnic season returns… wines for spring and summer 2023

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Spring has been a long time coming this year. While Mother Nature graced us with a beautiful glimpse of picture-perfect weather in early April, the cold, wet weeks that followed left much to be desired. We are now happy to see the sun and feel its warmth, beckoning us outside. In a word (or more precisely two), it’s Picnic Season!

That means a lot of things, but chief among them is what wines to enjoy al fresco this spring and summer. In that regard, I recently had the very pleasant opportunity to taste through a selection of wines from Spanish wine producer, Hammeken Cellars. With Sailé Ramirez at the helm as CEO, the company has launched six new brands and planted over 250,000 trees as part of their sustainability program.

In fact, during that spring preview weekend in April, my husband and I had a picnic date night in Fort Tryon Park, toting along two rosés from their collection: Radio Boka Rosé and Sedosa Rosé.

Outside was no longer an option for a while, so the Radio Boka Verdejo was enjoyed indoors at the dining table, but the Gotas de Mar Albarino was a welcome companion as I introduced my friend, Sharon, to the joys of fancy picnics when we met up in Prospect Park for lunch and a production of Molière’s Tartuffe.

In keeping with the theme of freshness and al fresco dining, I’m including tasting notes from a recent seminar with Domaine Bousquet, since several of its current releases are also perfect picnic pairings, particularly, their sparkling rose and LO CA Chardonnay.

TASTING NOTES

WHITES

Radio Boka Verdejo 2021, VDT Castilla, Spain, $12.00
Aromas of bitter almond, pear, and citrus on both the nose and palate, this complex wine offers up medium body, medium acidity and long length.

Gotas de Mar Albariño 2022, Rias Baixas, Spain, $25.00
Produced from 100% Albariño from 15-25 year old vines, this wine was aged for six months on its lees. Notes of citrus and riper tree fruit are joined by minerality and salinity, with medium body, good acidity and long length.

Domaine Bousquet LO CA Chardonnay 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $14.00
LO CA is a local calorie and low alcohol wine, which required numerous attempts to get it right due to ensure a wine that was stable and of the quality they desired. The resulting wine has 9% abv and 2% residual sugar. Green apple, musk and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate with high acidity, minerality, medium body and long length.

ROSÉS

2021 Radio Boka Rosé, VDT Castilla, Spain, $12.00
Tasted alongside the Sedosa rosé, this wine was less ripe, with slightly higher acidity. It is redolent of fresh raspberries and citrus, with medium body and long length.

Sedosa Organic Rosé 2021, VDT Castilla, Spain, $20.00
Comprised of 100% Bobal from 15 year old vines, this wine is pale salmon in color with aromas of berries, and melon and a hint of floral. The dry palate provides ripe fresh berries, good acidity and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose NV, Uco Valley, Argentina, $13.00
This sparkling wine is produced using the Charmat Method, bringing together 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. Deep salmon in color, with a persistent bead, it is fresh and lively with tart cherry notes, a lovely mousse and long length.



At Bodegas Montecillo, A Mix of the Modern and Classic

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While the clouds kept the sun at bay, the view from the Ritz Carlton’s 50th floor was no less stunning. Lower Manhattan as well as Lady Liberty herself were visible just beyond the array of wine glasses as we waited for the tasting event to start.

Here, at Chef José Andrés’ latest NYC outpost, Nubeluz, a unique opportunity to taste the history of Rioja was proffered by Mercedes García Rupérez, Chief Winemaker for Bodegas Montecillo and Paco Fernandez, Area Manager for Bodegas Osborne.

Established in 1870 by the Navajas family and located in the heart of the Rioja region, Bodegas Montecillo is the third oldest winery in Rioja. It was the first winery in Fuenmayor and was named for the small mountain nearby (monte cillo literally translates as small mountain). In 1973, Bodegas Montecillo’s third generation winemaker, Jose Luis Navajas, had no descendants and looked to collaborate with Bodegas Osborne as a way of carrying on the winery’s legacy. Hence, Paco Fernandez’s presence at the event. Yet, despite the change in ownership, the winery continues to maintain its strong and proud heritage as it also seeks to maintain its relevance into the far future.

Now at Montecillo for almost 15 years, Mercedes previously spent 16 years at Osborne’s Malpica Estate and vineyards in Chile prior to her arrival in Rioja. When she was first brought on as winemaker, Bodegas Montecillo only specialized in classically styled Rioja. After ensuring the high quality of the existing wines, she turned her attention to expanding the winery’s repertoire to include more modern styles as well. Regardless of the style, like many premium producers, she generally exceeds the minimums in making her wines.

Of note was the beautiful pairing of food and wine, displaying the food friendly, versatile nature of the wines. Although Nubeluz doesn’t typically serve much in the way of food, we were treated to some of the highest quality Serrano ham and other delicious fare. .

In particular, the first Course featured Croquetas de Jamón, Pan Con Tomate, Tomato Goat Cheese Cone and Josés Taco (nori, caviar, jamon and gold leaf). The second Course was a choice between Grilled Seasonal Vegetables with Romesco and China’s Sweetest Tomato Salad. For the third course, I chose the Solomillo Jamon Confit Piquillos. Dessert was a selection of Chef Victor’s Sweet Cones: Smores, mont blanc (caramel milk cream), dulce de leche, and thai basil.

As the tasting underscored, there is a real and distinct history to the company and its wines. They can clearly withstand the test of time, given their excellent quality and aging potential. As a further example of their ageability, Mercedes and Rocio graciously shared one of the few remaining bottles of the Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial 1973 with us. It was also enlightening to be able to compare and contrast the classic and modern wines, finding something to enjoy about each of them. Moreover, it showed that the winery remains au current as it moves into its next chapter.

TASTING NOTES

Singladuras Albariño 2021, Rias Baixas, Spain, $20/bottle
Produced from 100% Albarino, this wine undergoes batonage to add depth and complexity to the wine and spends time in the bottle before release to soften the acidity. With aromas of citrus, pith, slight yeast, and minerality, it has bright acidity, medium body, and long length. It is extremely fresh, with a lovely salinity on the palate due to the influence of, and proximity to, the Atlantic Ocean.

Bodegas Montecillo Reserva 2014, Rioja, Spain, $20/bottle
A classic style Rioja, with an eye toward producing a complete and balanced wine, this brings together 92% Tempranillo and 8% Mazuelo, which are aged for 24 months in mixed oak barrels (65% French and 35% American). Notes of smoke, oak, strawberry/berries greet the nose. It is dry, with medium+ body, medium acidity, medium, grainy tannins, are joined by spice, vanilla, and marmalade fruit, culminating in
long length.

Bodegas Montecillo Gran Reserva 2010, Rioja, Spain, $40/bottle
Another classically-styled wine, Mercedes notes her aim in crafting the Gran Reserva is elegance. Hailing from a great vintage, this blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Graciano, is sourced from vines with an average age of 40 years. The wine is aged for 28 months in oak barrels (a combination of French and American) and then rests in bottle for at least 4 years before release. It offers a shy nose, with dark red fruit, dried spice and vanilla, which persist on the palate. Its ripe tannins are firmer than the Reserva 2014, with good acidity and very long length. It can definitely age further.

Bodegas Montecillo Edición Limitada 2016, Rioja, Spain, $25-27/bottle
Stepping out of the traditional mold, Mercedes’ intention with the Edicion Limitada is to produce a different and more modern wine with more fruit and less oak. Comprised of 70% Tempranillo and 30% Graciano, this grapes for this wine come from 40-year-old vines from two special, high altitude plots. After fermentation, it is aged for 25 months in oak and then aged in bottle for another two years. An intense nose of strawberry and blackberry with firm, ripe tannins, fresh acidity, medium+ body, a slight herbal note and long length. It was fruitier than the previous two wines with a softer palate.

Bodegas Montecillo 22 Barricas Gran Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain, $50/bottle
Another modern style wine, the 22 Barricas is only made in great vintages such as 2010 and 2015. Mercedes first made this wine by hiding 22 barrels (thus, its name) from the winery owner to take a new approach. All of the grapes (a blend of 50% Tempranillo, 25% Graciano, 15% Garnacha and 10% Mazuelo) are hand harvested and the wine is aged in barrel for 32 months before resting in bottle for at least 38 months. A pronounced nose of vanilla and dark, lush fruit. This wine displays firm tannins – needs time to develop, intense fruit on the palate as well, and, overall, is beautiful and elegant, with long length.

Bodegas Montecillo Gran Reserva Selección Especial 2005 Rioja, Spain, $200/bottle
With only a very small quantity produced, this wine was made in honor of the winery’s 150th anniversary. The 70% Tempranillo, 20% Graciano and 10% Maturana Tinta were barrel aged for 62 months and rested in bottle for more than 9 years. It offers up aromas of dried flowers, dried herbs and dried red fruit, joined by flavors of coffee and spice on the beautifully complex palate. It is dry with a sweet attack, still firm, yet ripe, tannins, and long length.

Bodegas Montecillo Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial 1973, Rioja, Spain, N/A
Made from 100% Tempranillo sourced from vines with an average age of 50 years, this is the last vintage made by the founding Navajas family. Sweet nose of faded flowers, particularly dried rose, slight spice, faded fruit of dried raspberries, this is a beautifully elegant wine, with long length.


Domaine Bousquet wine for the win

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I’ve sung the praises of Domaine Bousquet in the past (See this article and that) and its wines continue to impress. Among the top export wines of Argentina, Domaine Bousquet continues to be the country’s leader in organic wines.

More specifically, Domaine Bousquet has been dedicated to organic viticulture since its very beginning. Today, there continues to be a clear and significant commitment to such activities.

These are well-made wines, available at a reasonable price, and are definitely great go-to wines you can feel confident to serve at your table or to gift to friends and family.

Tasting Notes

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Certified Organic Chardonnay 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, SRP $18
It was fresh and unoaked, with apple and citrus aromas and flavors, bright acidity, medium + body and long length. Overall, it was simply lovely and a big hit at our condo’s holiday party.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Certified Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina SRP $18
With its intense nose of blackberry, pepper and oak, this wine displays good acidity, medium tannins, medium body and a slight woody note before culminating in long length. It is easy to drink and very enjoyable.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Certified Organic Malbec 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina SRP $18
Lush dark berry fruit greets the nose, with a fresh palate, medium body, ripe tannins and a hint of spice in the finish, with long length. This was the perfect pairing with bison (our freezer is stocked with tons of bison thanks to a Costco delivery courtesy of my mom).

These wines may be purchased online or at a retailer near you.

Yes, Virginia, there are world-class wines in Virginia

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Home to the wine-savvy Thomas Jefferson, Virginia saw the early development of viticulture within its borders during colonial times. However, like many places in America, the true creation of a wine industry in Virginia primarily dates to the 1970s, with significant growth occurring during the 1990s. (For a more in depth look at the state’s vinous history, see: Virginia’s Great American Wine Story).

While still fairly small in comparison to states like California and Washington, Virginia is currently crafting high quality wines with its 300 wineries currently spanning over 4,000 acres of grapes, 10 wine regions and 8 AVAs.

Additional maps and details are available here: https://wineandcountrylife.com/virginia-wine-regions/

As Virginia wine rose to prominence within the state, the Virginia Governor’s Cup was founded. “…[O] ne of the most stringent competitions in the U.S., [it] is hosted by the Virginia Wineries Association in partnership with the Virginia Wine Board and the Virginia Vineyards Association.”

Directed by Jay Youmans, MW, the Governor’s Cup competition consists of Cider Judges (cider was added as its own category as of 2021), Preliminary Judges and Final Judges, with the wines judged on appearance, aroma, flavor, overall quality and commercial suitability. At the conclusion of Stage I: The Preliminary Round, the wines are then tasted and scored by the judges in Stage II: The Final Round. The top 12 wines with the highest average score earn the distinction of Governor’s Cup Case, while the wine with the highest overall score is named Virginia Governor’s Cup winner.

In 2022, the 40th year of this competition, the winners of the Governor’s Cup Case included:

  • 50 West Vineyards 2019 Ashby Gap
  • Barboursville Vineyards 2020 Vermentino Reserve
  • Cana Vineyards and Winery of Middleburg 2019 LeMariage
  • Cana Vineyards and Winery of Middleburg 2019 Unitè Reserve *
  • Maggie Malick Wine Caves 2020 Albariño
  • Michael Shaps Wineworks 2019 Chardonnay
  • Pollak Vineyards 2017 Meritage
  • Rockbridge Vineyard 2018 V d’Or
  • Shenandoah Vineyards 2019 Reserve Red
  • Stinson Vineyards 2017 Meritage
  • Trump Winery 2015 Brut Reserve
  • Wisdom Oak Winery 2019 NINETEEN

*Virginia Governor’s Cup Winner

Beyond those above, numerous wines were awarded Gold, Silver and Bronze medals, depending on the score received.

This formal evaluation of Virginia wines gives praise to those wines and wineries that are raising the vinous bar in the state. The corresponding Virginia Governor’s Cup Gala, held in Richmond, VA, provides a fundraising effort in support of the V Foundation’s cancer research as well as an opportunity for the public to taste through the Gold medal winners for 2023! Tickets are available online.

I recently had the opportunity to taste through a selection of the winning wines, as well as bottles from Early Mountain Vineyards. To help me out, I enlisted the assistance of a friend who happily obliged, as we tasted our way through the assortment of whites and reds. We were impressed by what was in our glass and only lamented that the economics of Virginia viticulture (similar to that of Long Island and other boutique regions) necessitates a price point of $30 and up. Yet despite these higher price points, they are worth it and worth seeking out.

Maggie Malick Wine Caves, Albariño 2020, Hillsboro, VA, $36.00
An aerospace engineer, Maggie Malick first embraced wine as a hobby in 2004. By 2011, her wines were winning awards at amateur competitions, prompting her to establish a commercial winery. Named Loudoun’s Winemaker of the Year for 2021, she and her husband, Mark, maintain 30 acres of vineyard, planted to 15 different grape varieties. Her Albariño 2020 is 100% Albarino, fermented and aged solely in stainless steel. This wine has a pronounced nose of citrus and stone fruits, with bright acidity and green apple, lemon oil and pith notes on the medium-bodied palate, with long length.
http://www.maggiemalickwinecaves.com

Michael Shaps Wineworks, Chardonnay 2019, Monticello AVA (Charlottesville, VA), $28.00
After studying enology and viticulture in Burgundy, France, Michael Shaps spent a year working in that region before settling in Charlottesville. After serving as winemaker for Jefferson Vineyards, Shaps began producing his own label in 2000. Not surprisingly given his background, this 100% Chardonnay was produced using Burgundian methods, with fermentation in new and used French oak barrels, along with lees stirring and malolactic fermentation. This wine has a decidedly fresh palate, with citrus and apple aromas, along with minerality and luscious buttery notes, with full body and long length.
https://www.virginiawineworks.com/

Stinson Vineyards, Meritage 2017, Monticello AVA (Crozet, VA) $37.00
Initially produced by Scott Stinson and his daughter, Rachel Stinson Vrooman, they were joined by Rachel’s husband Nathan Vrooman in 2015. They take their inspiration from French winemaking practices, with a focus on complexity and an elegant expression of the grapes. As a Meritage wine, this is a Bordeaux-style blend. Specifically, it brings together 50% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Petit Verdot. Aged in 20-50% new oak barrels for 15 months before being blended. Red and black fruit greet the nose with leafy notes, dusty tannins and medium+ body, culminating in long length.
https://stinsonvineyards.com

Wisdom Oak Winery, Nineteen 2019, Monticello AVA (North Garden, VA)  $37.00
Owner and self-taught winemaker, Jason Lavallee, established Wisdom Oak Winery in 2016, growing his own grapes and making wine through a process of trial and error. Aged in a combination of new Virginia oak barrels and neutral oak, the 50% Petit Verdot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon blend offers up red fruit, spice, oak on the nose and palate. It has medium+ ripe tannins and full body, displaying a more angular, structural wine with warmth and long length.
https://www.wisdomoakwinery.com

Early Mountain Vineyards
Although not part of the Governor’s Cup case, Early Mountain’s wines are finding their footing at top restaurants nationwide. For example, coincidentally in October, I dined at NYC’s Luthun restaurant and, at the sommelier’s recommendation, enjoyed a glass of the Early Mountain Petit Manseng. Thus, it was a pleasant surprise to have the opportunity to taste it again as part of this sampling experience.

Initially planted in 2005 by Jess and Sharon Sweely, the Early Mountain property was purchased in 2010 by Jean Case and her husband, Steve. Two years later, they re-opened under the Early Mountain brand, expanding acreage to include Quaker Run Vineyard in 2015 and increasing their emphasis on Bordeaux grape varieties.
https://www.earlymountain.com/ 

Early Mountain Vineyards, Petit Manseng 2020, Virginia, $30.00
Winner of a Silver Medal in the Governor’s Cup, this wine comprises 93% Petit Manseng, 4% Pinot Gris and 3% Chardonnay. It was fermented in a combination of oak vessels, large Acacia and concrete. Deep in color, with apricot, spice and nut aromas and flavors, the wine is full bodied with long length.

Early Mountain Vineyards, Foothills 2021, Virginia, $27.00
During our tasting, we affectionately referred to this wine as the “kitchen sink” given the lengthy and varied blend of 28% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Petit Verdot, 8% Tanat, 8% Petit Manseng, and 5% Cabernet Franc. With black, juicy fruit, bright acidity and medium body, the wine is fresh and easy drinking.

Early Mountain Vineyards, Shenandoah Valley Cabernet Franc 2021, Virginia, $30.00
This 100% Cabernet Franc is produced with fruit sourced exclusively from the Shenandoah Valley and, in particular, the Shenandoah Springs Vineyard and Baer Ridge Vineyard. Aromas of smoke, mulberry and wet leaves persist on the dry palate with good acidity, medium+ body and long length. The 2020 vintage earned a Silver Medal in the Governor’s Cup.

Mediterranean Aperitivo: Delicious Products of Place on Your Plate

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I’ve noticed an interesting trend recently of food and wine products banding together to take their message to the masses. Case in point, the Charming Taste of Europe Consortium dinner I attended a few weeks ago. I think this is a great idea and, frankly, it makes a lot of sense since it can be challenging to showcase a single product and moreover, we don’t eat and drink in a vacuum.

This type of collaborative effort was also seen at the Mediterranean Aperitivo event, which was held at Eataly Flatiron’s winter wonderland rooftop in mid-December. As I was unable to attend, the organizers offered me the opportunity to recreate the festivities at home and I happily accepted.

Admittedly unsure what to expect, I was pleasantly surprised to receive a cute package revealing Vermouth di Torino PGI, Pecorino Toscana PDO, a Costa d’Amalfi PGI Lemon and Greek olives, along with an informative guide. You’ll spot a lot of letters in the above product names and that’s both intentional and important.

Specifically, PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) are legal terms that mean that the products have been deemed by the European Union to be of high quality and of particular connection to a territory or geographical area. Much like Champagne (a sparkling wine that only comes from the Champagne region in France), these labels signal to the consumer that this is a special product coming from a very specific place.

Vermouth di Torino PGI: While many people are familiar with vermouth in the context of a martini, they may not know precisely what vermouth is. It is, in fact, an aromatized wine. In this regard, a local wine has been infused with local, aromatic plants. Think of it as the gin of wine! Vermouth is commonly produced in alpine areas and Piedmont’s Torino, at the foothills of the Alps, is no exception. The region’s vermouth developed its stellar reputation in the 18th century and has continued to uphold the same standards and receive continued recognition.

While the guide suggested making a classic martini, paired with the enclosed Greek olives, our household was a bit shy of the required quantities of either gin or vodka at that moment. Instead, I opted to mix up a slightly altered version of the guide’s other recipe, Contessa of Piedmont, substituting the sweet vermouth for the dry and Campari for the Aperol. It was well balanced and delicious with floral and botanical notes!

Pecorino Toscano PDO: While pecorino is a general term for cheese produced from sheep’s milk, Pecorino Toscano PDO hails specifically from sheep’s milk produced in Tuscany and a few municipalities in Umbria and Lazio. It can be made as a soft or semi-hard cheese, depending on the maturation (20 days and four months minimums, respectively). It was relatively mild and slightly salty, with nice richness.

Costa d’Amalfi PGI: Groves for the Costa d’Amalfi PGI lemons were first planted between the 10th and 12th centuries along the coast from Positano and Cetara in Campania. Interestingly, these should not be confused with the lemons of Sorrento, which have their own PGI and are a different variety of lemon. The Costa d’Amalfi lemons are quite large, weighing a minimum of 100 grams and are less acidic than the typical, store-bought lemon. These lemons frequently find their way into limoncello, but as was evidenced by enjoying it on its own, they are great in their unadulterated form, with freshness, beautiful fragrance and bright acidity.

Greek olives: Finally, we have the olives produced in Western Greece, which has a biblical history of olive groves. Formal cultivation of olives within Greece dates to 3500-2500 BCE. Today, the area is home to 150 million olive trees, 600,000 olive farmers and 2,800 mills. The type of olives wasn’t specified, but I suspect them to be Kalamata olives, with their intense briny, acidic and salty flavors.

After making my cocktail and plating up the cheese, olives and crackers, I sat down to enjoy a wonderful collection of tastes and flavors, all of which proved to be a perfect pairing. Overall, I encountered lots of freshness on the plate and in the glass. The next time you are shopping for various ingredients, reward your palate by seeking out the unique products that are produced in very special places. Salut!

From Europe with Love: Abruzzo and the Sweet Wines of Bordeaux

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Looking for some new wines to grace your holiday table this season? Or, just want to expand your wine knowledge? Check out the dry wines from Abruzzo and the sweet wines from Bordeaux!

A recent dinner at Lincoln Ristorante welcomed members of the wine press and trade in an effort to better acquaint us with the wines from Abruzzo (Italy) and the sweet wines from Bordeaux (France). This was a wonderful opportunity to reconnect with colleagues after a lengthy hiatus as well as taste through a selection of amazing wines (and delicious food).

Prior to the evening, I had only limited exposure to the wines from Abruzzo, mostly aware of its Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines, but the meal provided a much more in-depth look at the region and the high quality wines it produces.

An historic region, the wines from Abruzzo were mentioned by Pliny the elder. In particular, the centrally located Abruzzo is home to both the Adriatic Sea as well as steep mountains (65% of the region is mountainous and 30% of the land is protected by natural parks) and has a mild climate that becomes more continental in character as one moves inland. Consequently, one can ski during the day and then be at the sea within 30 minutes.

Wine production includes 2 DOCG-level wines, 7 DOCs and 7 IGT (regional) wines. As with elsewhere in Italy, co-ops are very important to the scene, but there are also 200 private wineries in Abruzzo.

Here, the two main varieties are the two already mentioned: the red Montepulciano, which accounts for 80% of production and the white Trebbiano, which is the second most planted grape in the region. This latter variety dates to the 16th century and is considered to be a more more elegant version of the Trebbiano variety, and has the ability to age well.

Another grape of note in the region is Pecorino, which had almost become extinct, but thankfully has had a revival. Grown in both the Le Marche and Abruzzo regions, it is a variety with great acidity, structure and good aging potential.

We next enjoyed a Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, which, when established in 2010, was the first designation in Italy dedicated exclusively to rosé wine. The word cerasuolo refers to the deep pink color of these wines, which are produced from the Montepulciano grape.

Finally, we had a Riserva-level Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which displayed the beauty of these wines, which have elegance and powerful, along with good fruit character, complexity, balance and length.

After our foray into the Abruzzian wines, we turned our attention to dessert. As their name implies, the Sweet Wines of Bordeaux offer up beautiful sweetness in the glass and make for a perfect liquid dessert. Yet, they are versatile enough to pair with savory foods as well, with bright acidity and balance accompanying the sweet notes. At dinner, one had a choice between a cheese course or a chocolate-based dessert, both of which paired equally well with the two Bordeaux wines.

Bordeaux’s sweet wines feature the grape varieties of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and (in some cases) Muscadelle and are produced in several styles as well as several different appellations.

The Bordeaux Moelleux are among the lighter-style wines with nice freshness and sweetness. Conversely, those produced as Bordeaux Supérieur are fuller-bodied, can include Muscadelle in the cepage and are aged for a period of 6 to 18 months in wood vessels.

Additionally, Côtes de Bordeaux Saint-Macaire, covers a geographic area along the right bank of the Garonne River, while Premières Côtes de Bordeaux is used for those made from grapes grown in the vineyards of 39 towns that extend across the right bank of the Garonne river located south of Bordeaux.

However, the wines from the more specific appellations are the ones perhaps best compared with their siblings from Sauternes. In this regard are the wines from Cadillac,
Cérons, Loupiac and Saint-Croix-Du-Mont. The Cadillac appellation (AOC) was established in 1972, while Cérons AOC dates to 1936. The Cadillac wines are produced from late harvest grapes, while grapes for Cerons are affected by noble rot. Regardless, both adhere to strict selections during harvest, all of which is done by hand, with the wines aged for 12 to 18 months. Two other well-regarded appellations are Loupiac, which is the largest of them all, and Saint-Croix-Du-Mont, both of which are produced similarly to Cadillac and Cérons.

While these may not be familiar names to you, the bottom line is that one should keep Bordeaux in mind when it comes to the dessert course.

In this day and age, we are blessed to have access to a wealth of wonderful wines from all over the world, but it is easy to fall into a rut and reach for the same wines time and again. If that sounds like you, I urge you to step out of your comfort zone and explore these two sets of wines; your palate will thank you!

Wishing you all the best for the holiday season and beyond!

TASTING NOTES

Nic Tartaglia Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy
Aromas and flavors of pear and white flowers, with bright acidity, medium body, and long length.
Paired with Long Island Fluke Crudo or Misticanza Salad

Fontefico La Canaglia Pecorino d’Abruzzo Superiore DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy
As a wine with the Superiore designation, it has been aged for one year, but, in this case, in stainless steel, not wood. Notes of apricot and smoke greet the nose, with a dry palate of medium acidity, medium+ body, culminating in long length.
Paired with Risotto.

Velenosi Prope Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy
Beautiful in color, this wine offers up fresh berries and zippy acidity, with good minerality, It is complex and structured, with medium+ body and is much more substantial on the palate than a Provencal-style rose. Good length.
Paired with Branzino or Dry Age Strip Loin.

Masciarelli Villa Gemma Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Riserva 2017, Abruzzo, Italy
Intense nose of red and black fruit, with firm, yet ripe tannins, this wine was aged for 24 24 months before release. It had lovely complexity, good fruit and very long length.
Paired with Branzino or Dry Age Strip Loin.

Chateau de Garbes Cuvee Fut de chene Cadillac AOC 2019, Bordeaux, France
Produced from old vines, this wine was aged for 12 months in oak. It was luscious, with good acidity to balance the sweetness and notes of apricot and other stone fruit.
Paired with Cheese (Aged Parmesan) or Pinola Al Cioccolato.

Chateau Loupiac-Gaudiet Loupiac AOC 2017, Bordeaux, France
Made from botrytized grapes (90% Semillion; 10% Sauvignon Blanc) from 45-year-old vines, this wine displays lovely fruit, spice and vanilla, culminating in long length.
Paired with Cheese (Aged Parmesan) or Pinola Al Cioccolato.


Oltrepo Pavese wines, perfect pairings for pizza, Thanksgiving and just about anything else

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Located in Italy’s Lombardy region, Oltrepo Pavese gets its name from its location on the “other side” of the Po River, the longest in Italy. Home to over 220 indigenous grape varieties, this region is extremely diverse, producing wines that range from still and sparkling, to dry and sweet and everything in between. Additionally, it’s shared borders with the regions of Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna and Liguria have exerted their influence on the resulting wines as well.

As the third largest grower of Pinot Noir (lagging only behind Burgundy and Champagne), Pinot in its many guises is well represented here. Known by the Italian Pinot Nero, the grape is made into sparkling, white and red wines. Pinot Grigio is also widely planted. Interestingly, due to Lombardy’s historic ties to the Savoy kingdom, Riesling is also found in its vineyards.

The diversity is further reflected in its many different sub-denominations. For example, there are four alone just for Metodo Classico sparkling wines. Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese refers to a lightly sparkling (frizzante) red wine produced from a minimum of 85% Croatina, supplemented with up to 15% of Barbera, Ughetta, and/or Uva Rara. Finally, the unusually titled Sangue di Giuda is named for the legend that Judas came back to life to atone for his betrayal of Jesus, ultimately helping to end an epidemic in the vineyards. This sweet red can be lightly or fully sparkling and may be produced from 25-65% Barbera, 25-65% Croatina, with the remainder being Uva Rara, Ughetta and/or Pinot Nero, up to a maximum of 45%.

Thus, it was a fun and festive introduction to these wines at Sottocasa, an authentic thin-crust pizza restaurant in Harlem, which was the site for an informal wine dinner. Our meal featured an assortment of Oltrepo Pavese wines paired with a selection of salads, pizzas and people. Yet, the informal nature of the event did not mean that the wines were any less complex or of low quality. In fact, they were quite delicious and easy to pair with both the savory and sweet dishes on the crowded table.

Moreover, the diversity of vinous flavors, coupled with the hodge podge of people and food, was the perfect proving ground for Thanksgiving, which we will celebrate in the U.S. this week. While Oltrepo Pavese may be situated on the other side of the Po, this time of year in the U.S. we are metaphorically heading “Over the river and into the woods… to grandmother’s house…” to celebrate Thanksgiving with family, friends or both, with our own assortment of culinary traditions on the table.

The sparkling, white and red wines of Oltrepo Pavese should be a welcome addition to your feast throughout the holiday season and beyond with their flexible, food-friendly nature.

TASTING NOTES

The following wines were those we tasted at Sottacasa, but you can search out whatever Oltrepo Pavese are available at your local wine store.

Defilippi Gessi Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC Crocetta 2021, $25
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks

Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks
This was my preference among the Pinot Grigios, but they were all quite good.

Ca di Frara Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks

Ca Montebello Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pinot Nero Vinificato in Bianco 2021, $25
100% Pinot Nero. Vinified as a white wine, this Pinot was extremely fresh and lively, light bodied, really beautiful and super easy to drink. It was a crowd favorite at our meal.

Castello di Luzzano Sommossa Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021, $23
100% Croatina. This dry, sparkling red, was produced using the tank method, with raspberries and blackberries, and long length.

Losito & Guarini Giovannella Fugazza Bonarda Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC C’Era Una Volta NV, $20
100% Croatina, tank method.

Dino Torti Oltrepo Pavese DOC Barbera Route 66, 2019, $25
100% Barbera, aged in Fench barrique for 18 months. I didn’t take good notes, but I did enjoy this fresh, medium-bodied red.

Tenuta Travaglino Pinot Nero Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pernero 2021
100% Pinot Nero, tank fermentation, 6 months aging on the lees. A light-bodied red, with good cherry fruit, a hint of herbaceousness and lively acidity.

Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Sangue di Guida Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021
Croatina, Uva Rara, Barbera, field blend, Martinotti Method. This off dry, red sparkling wine was lovely and fresh and a good pairing with dessert.

Naturally Bordeaux, the Bordelais Go Organic

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With her very apt metaphor, at the recent Naturally Bordeaux event, Mary Gorman-McAdams, MW, explained that big ships are hard to change course, but, with time, they do make the transformation. Similarly, Bordeaux, which is the largest quality wine region in France, has finally made a turn of its own with its more recent embrace of sustainable agriculture. Now that Bordeaux is moving in this new direction, it has been full steam ahead.

Consequently, Bordeaux has significantly increased its acreage of organic vineyards, which, as reported by James Lawther, MW currently stands at 34,333 acres. He further noted that this figure, when added to the biodynamically-certified acreage, accounts for 14% of the region’s vineyards.

Moreover, Mary shared that there has been a collective focus throughout the region on implementing the new Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) certification, a three-tiered system that was launched in France in 2001. This program “encourages farms and vineyards to focus on increasing biodiversity, decreasing the negative environmental impact of their phyto-sanitary strategy (i.e., measures for the control of plant diseases, reducing the use of pesticides and fungicides), managing their fertilizer inputs, and improving water management.” ~Discover Sustainable Wine

The HVE program has been whole-heartedly adopted by the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux which plans to have 100% compliance among Bordeaux producers by 2030. Early adopters, the Cru Bourgeois du Médoc mandated that each chateau must have achieved at least minimum level HVE certification requirements as part of the application process to be considered for Cru Bourgeois status. Lawther advised that it has also been implemented as a requirement by the St.-Emilion appellation. Overall, the Bordelais are taking a holistic picture, including measures that address corporate responsibility.

Other changes in the region include not only an increase in rosé production, but a shift in its approach to producing these wines. To this end, rosé now makes up 4% of Bordeaux’s production and producers are making rosé on purpose these days. Accordingly, today’s wines utilize direct press production instead of the saignée method, which had previously been implemented primarily as a way to beef up the reds. For the most part, the resulting rosé wine made in this manner was an afterthought.

I recently had the pleasure of being introduced (or in one case, reintroduced) to three Bordeaux producers who are actively engaged in organic viticulture at the Naturally Bordeaux event, which was held at Clay Restaurant in New York city’s Harlem neighborhood. Clay was chosen because it is farm-to-table, serving only seasonal, locally-sourced products on its menu. Thus, it was the perfect setting for a dinner featuring sustainable Bordeaux wines.

The wines showed beautifully, providing the opportunity to taste white, rosé and red wines from a variety of vintages. They say the proof is in the pudding and it was clear from this tasting that these are fabulous, well-made wines that you can feel good about drinking given their commitment to the environment. And Clay’s chocolate budino (an Italian pudding) (as well as the entire meal) was fantastic too!

Chateau Fourcas Hosten
Owned by two brothers, Chateau Fourcas-Hosten has a long history on the Left Bank and has been focused on organics and sustainability for the past decade. They achieved HVE3 certification in 2017 and have taken the further step to convert their vines to organic viticulture, starting first with their whites and then expanding to their reds. Full certification of their 50 hectares was received in 2021. Of course, their first goal is to make good wines, and, in this manner, they have recognized the need to adapt the right variety to the right terroir. They have also made investments in the winery as well.

Chateau La Dauphine
Situated on the Right Bank, this historic chateau comprises 160 acres of vineyards with a mix of limestone, clay and molasse soils. The property itself dates to the late 1600s, with a more modern history dating to 2001 when the Halley family purchased the estate and invested 10 million Euros to significantly improve the land and winery. Chateau de la Dauphine earned organic certification in 2015, the same year that the property was sold to the Labrune family. It has since added biodynamic methods as well. Among other changes in the vineyards, they have been increasing their plantings of Cabernet Franc due to their soil types as well as due to climate change.

Chateau Jean Faure
This St.-Emilion Grand Cru Classé producer can trace its origins to a deed dated 1526. It has, of course, changed hands numerous times since then, with its latest acquisition in 2004, when it was purchased by Anne and Olivier Decelle. Their first certified organic vintage was 2017. Since 2020, they have engaged in biodynamic practices and will earn full certification from Biodyvin in 2023. Extensive research has been done on the estate’s predominantly clay terroir, which has always been heavily planted to Cabernet Franc (60%). This will prove to be even more useful as temperatures rise, given that Cabernet Franc has a longer maturity than Merlot.

MENU & TASTING NOTES

First course: Radicchio, spiced walnut, aged balsamic, parmigiano

Chateau Fourcas Hosten Blanc 2020, Listrac-Medoc, Bordeaux
Planted on limestone soils, which helps preserve the beautiful acidity, this wine is a blend of 67% Sauvignon Blanc, 18% Sauvignon Gris, and 15% Semillon. It offers up herbal and citrus aromas on the nose, giving way to riper pineapple on the bright palate, culminating with long length.

Chateau La Dauphine Rosé 2021, Fronsac, Bordeaux
This very pale hued rosé brings together 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, grown on a plot earmarked specifically for the production of rosé. Instead of a maceration, they use a pneumatic press to extract the juice and a touch of color. This wine was first made in 2016, when Monsiur Labrune decided to produce a rosé especially for his wife. With slight herbs and delicate strawberry and melon fruit, the palate is vibrant with a hint of salinity and long length.

Main course: Confit duck leg, carrot, smoked farro, collard greens, sumac
Side dishes: Mushrooms with thyme and shallot | Duck fat potatoes, with parsley and parmigiano

Chateau Fourcas Hosten 2018, Listrac-Medoc, Bordeaux
This blend of 58% Merlot, 38.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc displays plum, other black fruit, oak and vanilla, with firm ripe tannins and good length.

Chateau Jean Faure 2015, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, St.-Emilion, Bordeaux
Produced with 50% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot and 5% Malbec from a very sunny vintage, this wine offered up ripe, spicy, red fruit, along with freshness, culminating in long length.

Chateau La Dauphine 2012, Fronsac, Bordeaux
A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, this is beautifully developed with black and red fruit, ripe tannins, and very long length.

Dessert: Chocolate budino, spiced candied pecan, meringue

Chateau Jean Faure 2010, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, St.-Emilion, Bordeaux
Bring together the same blend as the 2015 vintage, this wine was still quite fresh despite its age. Showing some development, with aromas and flavors of blackberry, herbs, oak, and vanilla, with ripe tannins and long length.


Uruguayan Wines: It’s Time to Get to Know U

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Already know your South American ABC’s? Now it’s time to get to know U!

You are likely very familiar with wines from Argentina, Brazil and Chile, but if you are not aware of the wines from Uruguay, you are not alone. Yet, this oversight is worth correcting, especially given the country’s emphasis on further improving quality and care in crafting their wines. Moreover, its winemakers have learned to tame the tannins in its home-spun grape, Tannat, producing a plethora of styles to meet a range of palate preferences.

Although Uruguay is the second smallest country in South America, nestled between Argentina and Brazil, it has a lot of claims to fame. Most notably, Uruguay was the first country to host the World Cup. In addition to sharing a wine heritage with its neighbors, Uruguay also gives them a run for their money rivaling Argentina in tango and steak and Brazil with the longest carnival in the world at 50 days long. Perhaps most impressive, Uruguay boasts a 99% literacy rate and the country has given every school child a laptop since 2009.

Despite a less obvious presence on the world wine stage, Uruguay has been making wine since 1720s, and saw significant growth in the 1800s. However, it wasn’t until the 1990s that the country began to focus on premium wines, with the planting of the more noble, European grape varieties.

Climatically, Uruguay is home to a maritime climate, such as that of Bordeaux and Galicia. Within this climatic condition, the country comprises 1200 vineyards and 160 wineries. Today’s plantings total 12,000 acres and the land is composed of 99 different varieties of soil. The majority of production (75%) centers in two main regions along the coast: Canelones and Montevideo (shaded in yellow in the map below). Here, the vines are planted on gently sloping hillsides and, tend to be older, due to the lengthier history of viticulture in the region.

Similarly, the industry is seeking out new areas for planting such as Maldonado (shaded in blue), which is also coastal, but with granite soils. Another frontier area is Rivera (shared in gray), in the north, near the border of Brazil, with a distinctly more continental climate thanks to its location further inland.

For what little reputation Uruguay does have, it is perhaps most well-known and regarded for Tannat. This highly tannic variety of French origin was first planted in Uruguay in the 1860s, with 3,950 acres currently planted. With its thick skin, Tannat is less susceptible to disease, which makes it a good option to combat the country’s humid climate.

Yet, beyond the climate-conducive nature of Tannat, the Uruguayans are quick to note that with the preponderance of cows in the country, they make wine to eat with meat. In fact, one producer proclaimed, “We eat the cows or we will be eaten by them.” NB: Cows outnumber people 4 to 1. For this reason, they like to think that, “Tannat chose us,” rather than the other way around. Thus, Tannat’s high tannin content, which reacts favorably with the protein in steak, provides another reason for Tannat to be such an important grape for the country.

Regardless of the reason for Tannat’s initial take-off, it is clear that Uruguayan winemakers have become very adept at handling Tannat and, in particular, have learned to expertly manage those high tannins. The tannins are still generally intense and structural, yet they are more balanced. Plus, today’s Tannat wines offer a variety of styles from which the consumer can choose.

In fact, in a recent tasting at City Winery, members of the press and trade had a unique opportunity to taste through nine different Tannat wines (including a Tannat-based vermouth), which clearly illustrated the diversity being produced right now. Moreover, tasting through an assortment of varietal wines as well as blends revealed how the current crop of winemakers has implemented their experience and expertise to produce
high-end wines and provided a showcase of what Tannat can truly do.

Aside from Tannat, Uruguay is home to other French varieties, including: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, as well as Marselan, Syrah and Pinot Noir. Although whites comprise a much smaller percentage of total plantings, Sauvignon Blanc is the 8th most planted variety, Chardonnay is ninth and Albarino comes in at number 10.

Today’s producers run the gamut from historic family properties to experimental newcomers and everything in between, all of whom are embracing this latest chapter of Uruguay’s vinous history. There are some very interesting and exciting wines being exported to the U.S. and most of them are well priced. If you don’t know Uruguayan wines, now is the time to get to know them.

The Uruguayan masterclass at City Winery was led by award-winning wine journalist, Amanda Barnes, author of the The South America Wine Guide, joined above by a representative from Cerro Chapeu winery.

TASTING NOTES

Cerro Chapeu Castel Pujol Folklore Petillant Naturel 2022, Rivera, Uruguay
Planted in the early 1970s, there are only two wineries in this tiny region, bordering Brazil. Produced in the Ancestral Method, this sparkling wine is a blend of 80% Trebbiano and 20% Malvasia. It is lightly sparkling, with nice citrus fruit, minerality, and long length.

Familia Traversa Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Montevideo, Uruguay
The Traversa family hails from the Veneto in Italy, emigrating to Uruguay in 1904. In 1937, they purchased land in Montevideo and established the winery in 1956. This Sauvignon Blanc is treated to some barrel fermentation, giving it more weight and presence on the plate. It is very fresh, with a slight wood note, medium bodied, with mineral and citrus on the palate.

Marichal Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Canelones, Uruguay
Founded in 1916, the Marichal brothers are members of the 4th generation to run the family business. They shifted their focus to fine wine in 2002 and have been improving quality ever wine. Compared to the Traversa Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is more herbal, with more tropical fruit.

Cerro del Toro Albarino Sobre Lias 2021, Maldonado, Uruguay
This wine project is run by a Japanese businessman, who bought the land in the late 1980s. The winery itself was started in 2015 and comprises 70 acres. The wine spends some time sur lie. Aromas of apple and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate, with high acidity, medium body and long length.

Los Cerros de San Juan Lahusen Riesling 2020, Colonia, Uruguay
Established in 1854 by the Lahusen family from Germany, this is the oldest winery in Uruguay. The vines are planted on rocky soils and the wine was fermented in clay amphora. This Riesling shows lots of freshness with lime and minerality along with long length.

Antigua Bodega Bella Donna Tannat 2020, Canelones, Uruguay
Since 1928, this Canelones-based winery has been family owned and female led, with the 6th generation currently at the helm. This Tannat is produced in a fresh, unoaked style with berries, black fruits, medium body, good acidity and long length.

Vina Progreso overground (revolution) Tannat 2020, Canelones, Uruguay
Well respected winemaker, Gabriel Pisano has been exploring numerous projects since 2009 and established Vina Progreso as his “Experimental Winery” upon his return home to Uruguay. Fresh, with lively acidity, this Tannat is slightly reminiscent of Beaujolais, with light tannins and bright, red fruit aromas and flavors.

Artesana Devocion 2020, Canelones, Uruguay
This boutique winery in Las Brujas was co-founded by Californian and Uruguayan winemakers, which explains why they grow Zinfandel in addition to Cabernet Franc, Tannat and Merlot and use a combination of both French and American oak. This blend of Cabernet Franc, Tannat and Merlot shows juicy red and black fruit. It is weighty, complex, and nicely balanced with ripe, firm tannins, good acidity, full body and long length.

Bracco Bosca Gran Ombu Cabernet Franc 2021, Atlantida, Uruguay
Situated in Atlantida, a coastal area located just 8km from the sea, this winery was started in 2005, A member of the 5th generation of her Italian-heritage family (they are originally from Piedmont), Fabiana came back to the winery six years ago to take the lead. One of their top wines, the Gran Ombu Cabernet Franc spends ten months in New French oak and displays aromas and flavors of dried and fresh herbs, mulberry and cranberry, with good acidity and length.

Alto de la Ballena Tannat Viognier 2018, Maldonado, Uruguay
The husband-and-wife owners of Alto de la Ballena have no family background in the wine industry, but simply wanted to seek out new areas (Maldonado) and pioneer new wines, getting their start in 2001. This wine takes its cue from the Northern Rhone, where the white variety, Viognier, is added to the red grape, Syrah. In this case, Tannat stands in for Syrah. With dark red fruit, dried herbs and vanilla on the nose and palate, the fruit is ripe yet restrained, culminating in long length.

Montes Toscanini Gran Tannat Premium 2019, Canelones, Uruguay
In 1894, the family arrived from Geneva, eventually establishing the winery in 1979 in Canelones. Today, the 4th generation of the family is actively involved in the business. They only produce this specific wine in the best years, and from the best parcels. Offering up intense, firm, yet ripe tannins, this wine is well structured with long length, showing black fruit, oak, vanilla.

Familia Deicas Preludio Tinto 2016, Canelones, Uruguay
This historic winery was purchased in 1979 and most recently established in 2000. This is a barrel select wine, which is a blend of Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Marselan. The selection is made by a large committee of family members after the wine has been aged for 24 months in oak barrels. It is redolent of red and black fruits and oak, with ripe tannins, good acidity, full body and long length.

Bouza Monte vide eu 2020, Montevideo, Uruguay
Founded in 1999, the owners have been pioneers in new regions and with Albarino and are classic car enthusiasts. Bringing together 55% Tannat, 27% Merlot, and 18% Tempranillo, this wine takes its name from a Portuguese phrase, and has a sweet attack, with fresh, ripe fruit, violets, and oak. The full-bodied wine has firm tannins and long length.

Bodega Garzon Balasto 2018, Maldonado, Uruguay
Bodega Garzon was established in 2009 in Maldonado by Argentine oil billionaire Alejandro Bulgheroni, in conjunction with an Italian wine consultant, Alberto Antonini. With a tribute to the terroir of decomposed granite soil and a strong emphasis on sustainability, the owners are more excited about their Silver LEED certification than any wine awards they may have won, which says a lot considering that the winery won Wine Enthusiast’s Wine Star Award for Best New World Winery in 2018. A blend of 45% Tannat, 25% Cabernet Franc, 18% Petit Verdot, and 12% Marselan, this wine is aged in untoasted botti, and offers up black fruit, berries and coffee, with full body and firm tannins. It is quite powerful, yet balanced and complex.

Basta Spirit Vermut Flores Rose NV, Uruguay
An artisanal vermouth collaboration produced from Canelones-sourced grapes, this project started in 2019. With a tradition from Italy and Spain, interest in vermouth has been growing among consumers in Uruguay. There are four different flowers included in the 27-ingredient, botanical recipe. It starts with a base of Tannat rose. It is very fresh and lively.