Island Wines: Long Island Edition

Posted on September 7, 2015 by Tracy

There is something special about visiting an island. The discrete borders, the intimate setting and the separation from the mainland all conspire to conjure images of a serene paradise. It’s why “Island Getaway” makes a much better headline than “Landlocked Getwaway”!

This summer, I had the pleasure of visiting several different islands, either in body (Long Island) or in spirit (Sicilia and Santorini), open to their charms through the lovely wines that are produced on each.

Close to home (aka New York City), Long Island provides a welcome refuge for city dwellers, with its beaches, farms and vineyards. We returned to the region after a two-year, accidental hiatus, stopping at some of our favorites for a brief refresher and to stock up our cellar, which we were about to deplete as a consequence of hosting our Meet, Meat & Merlot dinner, featuring a selection of aged Long Island Merlots.

The four-course dinner, held at our apartment, was an excellent opportunity to see how Long Island Merlot can develop with time. All of the wines, from the youngest at 12 years old (2003) to the oldest at 23 (1992), proved the point in spades. Between the chaos of cooking an elaborate menu and hosting 11 guests, I admittedly did not take notes on the wines, but the menu and wine selection are listed below.

Tasting notes for the various wines we tasted during our two-day visit to both the North Fork and The Hamptons AVAs are also included below.

Meet, Meat & Merlot Dinner Menu & Wines
Amuse Bouche: Frico Cheese Crisps with Hungarian Paprika

Wild Caught Salmon Sliders with Sage on Crispy Potato “Buns”
Shinn Estate Vineyards Estate Merlot 2003, North Fork of Long Island, USA
Shinn Estate Vineyards Six Barrels Reserve Merlot 2002, North Fork of Long Island, USA

¯
Coq au Vin 8 Hands Farm Organic Chicken Breast with Cipollini Onions & Mushrooms Lenz Estate Selection Merlot 2001, North Fork of Long Island, USA
Lenz Estate Selection Merlot 2000, North Fork of Long Island, USA

¯
Beef Wellington Organic Beef Tenderloin with Mushroom Duxelles and Foie Gras in Puff Pastry served with North Fork Squash and Sugar Snap Peas
Macari Vineyards, Bergen Road 1997, North Fork of Long Island, USA
Rivendell, Merlot 1990, North Fork of Long Island, USA
Rivendell, Merlot 1992, North Fork of Long Island, USA

¯
Dessert
Briermere Farms Raspberry & Peach Pie and
Briermere Farms Gooseberries and Wickham’s Farm Cherries

MACARI VINEYARDS
Macari Sauvignon Blanc 2014, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $23.00
This wine is fresh and bright, with crisp citrus, a hint of green apple and long length.

Macari Dos Aguas Blanc 2013, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $27.00
A blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. The intense nose displays aromas of lush pear and tropical fruit, both of which persist on the palate.

Macari Sauvignon Blanc No. 1 2013, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $27.00 Macari has been actively experimenting with the use of concrete eggs and 60% of this wine was fermented in one. Compared to the regular Sauvignon Blanc, it was much rounder with lots of orange peel aromas and flavors.

Macari Cabernet Franc Lightforce 2013, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $N/A
This wine was also fermented and aged in a concrete vessel. It was fresher and lighter than regular Cabernet Franc, but still very Cab Franc in its characteristics, with beautiful earth and mushroom notes.

Macari Merlot Reserve 2010, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $36.00
From the near perfect 2010 vintage, this wine is absolutely gorgeous with rich notes of coffee and black cherry, culminating in long length.

LENZ ESTATE
Lenz Estate Blanc de Noir Rosé 2013, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $22.00
A light and pleasing rosé with fresh strawberry and slight herbal notes on the nose and palate.

Lenz Estate Old Vine Gewürztraminer 2010, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $30.00
More floral than spice, this dry Gewurztraminer is quite elegant with nice acidity.

Lenz Estate Malbec 2011, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $35.00
With intense and concentrated aromas of smoke, mulberry and blue fruit, this wine is more restrained on the palate, with elegant flavors of spice and blue fruit.

Lenz Estate Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $NA
This wine was showing some development with complex aromas and aromas of red fruit, black fruit and some meatiness. On the dry palate, it displayed ripe and concentrated flavors of blackberry, coffee and slight cedar; lovely.

McCALL WINES
McCall Pinot Noir 2012, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $28.00
This wine offers fresh, bright fruit with notes of cherries, herbs and earth.

McCall Pinot Noir Hillside 2013, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $39.00
This Pinot Noir is more complex and intense than the entry-level wine, with more meaty and spice notes.

McCall Merlot Reserve 2010, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $30.00
This pretty and elegant wine displays rich black cherry aromas that pervade the palate as well.

McCall Ben’s Blend 2010, North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, $54.00
Bringing together, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this Bordeaux-style blend provides velvety tannins and nice complexity with gorgeous black fruit aromas and flavors.

CHANNING DAUGHTERS
Channing Daughters Tocai Mudd Vineyard 2012 North Fork of Long Island (NY), USA, 24.00
A combination of minerality and salinity greet the nose, while the palate is rewarded with apple and mineral notes and long length.

Channing Daughters Rosato di Refosco 2014, The Hamptons (NY), USA, $20.00 This rosé is distinctly herbal with sour cherry and a hint of salinity that lingers throughout the finish.

Channing Daughters Envelope 2011, The Hamptons (NY), USA, $42.00
Produced from 62% Chardonnay, 28% Gewurztraminer and 10% Malvasia Bianca, which were co-fermented with ambient yeast on the skins, this wine offers up pronounced aromas of floral and spice. This wine is rich, with concentrated fruit flavors of floral and pear on the palate.

Channing Daughters Ribolla Gialla 2013, The Hamptons (NY), USA, $35.00
This wine displays rich aromas of honey and marzipan. Its palate is dry with flavors of honey and white flowers.

Channing Daughters Sculpture Garden 2011, The Hamptons (NY), USA, $30.00
A blend of Merlot, Teroldego and Blaufrankisch, this wine spent 22 months in oak and 18 months in bottle before release. It has soft tannins, with notes of cherries, cocoa, and spice, which persist through the long finish.

NB: While I don’t have precise tasting notes, we absolutely adored Channing’s range of VerVino Vermouths.

WÖLFFER ESTATE
Wölffer Estate Noblesse Oblige Extra Brut Sparkling Rosé 2011, The Hamptons (NY), USA, $54.00
This elegant sparkling wine was very yeasty on the nose, with flavors of berries and cream on the palate.

Wölffer Estate Rosé 2014, Long Island (NY), USA, $18.00
Considered among the official rosés of the Hamptons, this fresh, Provencal-style rose is the perfect wine for summer with its purity of melon and berry fruit and refreshing acidity.

Wölffer Estate Summer in a Bottle 2014, Long Island (NY), USA, $24.00
This white blend offered up ripe, lush fruit with flavors of floral, peach and pear.

Grapes of Roth Dry Riesling 2014, Long Island (NY), USA, $26.00
Produced by Wölffer’s winemaker and partner Roman Roth, this is classic Riesling with citrus, slight pith, mineral, just a hint of off-dry sweetness on the attack.

Wölffer Estate Descencia Botrytis Chardonnay 2012, Long Island (NY), USA, $40.00
A late-harvest Chardonnay dessert wine with medium-sweetness, this wine is beautifully balanced by its bright acidity along with notes of honey, spice and Asian pear, culminating in long length.

Island Wines: Sicily Edition

Posted on September 5, 2015 by Tracy

There is something special about visiting an island. The discrete borders, the intimate setting and the separation from the mainland all conspire to conjure images of serene beauty. It’s why “Island Getaway” makes a much better headline than “Landlocked Getwaway”!

This summer, I had the pleasure of visiting several different islands, either in body (Long Island) or in spirit (Sicilia and Santorini). As much as I would have loved to return to Sicily this summer, I had to make do with a sampling of wines from one of my favorite Sicilian wineries: Donnafugata. But, with that first sip, I was instantly transported back to Sicily and Pantelleria, reminiscing about my visit to the region in May 2013. Owned by the Rallo family, Donnafugata has been actively engaged in raising the quality of Sicilian wines for decades and is a true champion for the region.

DONNAFUGATA ANTHILIA 2014, BIANCO SICILIA DOC, SICILIA, ITALY
This blend of Catarratto and Ansonica offers up pear, citrus and floral aromas with ripe orchard fruit on the palate, medium” body and medium acidity. It is a very pretty wine.

DONNAFUGATA SURSUR 2014, GRILLO SICILIA DOC, SICILIA, ITALY
Chirping with crisp acidity and fresh fruit (the name SurSur is Arabic for cricket), this 100% Grillo is distinctly mineral, with white flowers and spice pervading the nose and palate, well balanced with long length.

DONNAFUGATA LIGHEA 2014, ZIBIBBO TERRE SICILIANE IGT, SICILIA, ITALY Hailing from an island off the coast of an island, this wine is produced on Pantelleria from the Muscat of Alexandria grape. It has a pronounced, tropical fruit aromas with floral and musky notes. Dry, with intense flora and fruit flavors, this wine always has a special place in my heart.

DONNAFUGATA SEDARA 2013, ROSSO SICILIA DOC, SICILIA, ITALY
This unoaked Nero d’Avola displays berries, earth and spice, which persist on the palate, with medium body, medium tannins and long length. A perfect red for warmer temperatures.

Drink Wisely and Well – A Fresh Look at France issue

Posted on September 4, 2015 by Tracy

A Re-introduction to Roussillon

Posted on August 28, 2015 by Tracy

I first visited Roussillon in 2001, but it wasn’t until I started studying wine in 2005 that I truly became acquainted with the wines of this region. Several recent tastings re-introduced these wines to me, reminding me that their diversity, quality and appealing price points make them worthy of renewed interest.

Admittedly, a large portion of production is handled by large co-operatives, but co-op is no longer a four letter word around here. In fact, today, many of the cooperatives function more like custom-crush facilities than the typical co-op of yesteryear. Plus, many small family wineries also exist, such as the Nadal family of Château Nadal Hainaut, whom I met at the Wines of Roussillon’s Roussillon Day in New York.

I also had the pleasure of meeting husband and wife team, Dominque and Claude Ortal, at the same walk-around tasting and took an instant liking to the friendly couple who have guided Clos Saint Georges and its related brands (Château de Canterrane, Collections Emotion d’Oc and others) since 1970. Their property is scattered among seven towns within the Aspres area of Languedoc-Roussillon. I also took an instant liking to their wines.

Another immediate “crush” at the tasting was Jean Boucabeille, winemaker for Domaine Boucabeille, a 28-hectare estate, situated due east of Perpignan. Unfortunately, at the time of the tasting, my new “boyfriend” didn’t have U.S. representation, but I really enjoyed his wines and hope he made a successful match in finding someone to bring them in soon.

While I didn’t get the chance to meet all of the producers whose wines I tasted, I was generally impressed with the region’s refreshing rosés; its eager embrace of indigenous varieties; and its rich and decadent dessert wines. There were also some very interesting dry whites and reds, which were a welcome change. I also had the opportunity to taste a number of these wines with a colleague who works for an importer heavy with this region.

If you are not already familiar with these wines, I urge you to become acquainted. Your palate will thank me!

WHITE WINES
Emotion d’Oc, Cuvée de Paul-Muscat Sec 2012, IGP d’Oc, France, $NA
Made from Muscat grapes usually reserved for the production of fortified whites, this wine offered up exotic fruit aromas yet was dry, with ripe fruit character on the palate. Very pleasing.

Terrassous, Muscat Sec 2014, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France, $14.00
Another dry Muscat, this wine was nice with more limited fruit expression and an interesting waxy texture on the palate.

Domaine Treloar, One Block Muscat 2013, IGP Pays d’Oc, France, $10.00
Rounding out the discussion of dry Muscats, this selection was richly layered with lots of depth and a similar waxy texture.

La Noble Chardonnay 2013, IGP Pays d’Oc, France, $12.00
This brand works with small producers and local co-ops to source fruit from Limoux. The wine is an unoaked version of the ubiquitous grape, which I was hesitant to try, but was duly rewarded with fresh citrus and melon fruit aromas and flavors, medium+ acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Le Cirque Grenache Gris 2012, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France, $18.00
This 100% Grenache Gris is produced solely in stainless steel by a modern cooperative, Les Vignerons de Tautavel Vingrau, which serves more as a custom crush facility than as an old-fashioned co-op. Nicely textural with waxy notes and aromas of pear and melon, the wine is dry on the palate with ripe pear, slight apple and melon, medium acid and medium body.

Chateau de Lancyre, Roussanne 2012, IGP Monferrand, France, $22.00
This wine was one of my favorite discoveries. The Durand and Valentin families purchased the estate in 1970, taking on a 16th century chateau situated on the ruins of a 12th century fortress, with winemaking records that date to 1550. Today, they own 135 acres of vineyards planted to local varieties close to the Pic St. Loup area. The wine is made with 90% Roussanne spiked with some Viognier and Marsanne and displays aromas of flowers and marzipan, which persist on the dry, medium- to full-bodied palate. Just beginning to show some development, this wine can age well, becoming more complex and weighty with time.

Domaine Boucabeille, Terrasses 2014, Cotes du Roussillon, France, €NA
A blend of Grenache Blanc and Macabeo, this wine was fresh, fruity and complex on both the nose and palate, culminating in long length.

Domaine Boucabeille, Les Orris Blanc 2013 Cotes du Roussillon, France, €27.00
Bringing together 60% Grenache Blanc and 40% Rousanne, this wine was distinctly floral and mineral, with some spice and pear notes lingering in the finish.

Mas de Lavail, Terre d’Ardoise Old Vine Carignan Blanc 2014, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France, $14.00
A unique wine given its white color and production from a deeply pigmented red variety. Fresh and clean with white flowers, this is a very food friendly wine.

Domaine Cazes Le Canon du Marechal Blanc 2014, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France, $11.00
Not surprising given the 60% Muscat-40% Viognier blend, this wine is extremely aromatic with floral and exotic fruit aromas. Its dry palate, medium+ body, offered up depth and complexity with floral, melon and mineral flavors and long length.

Domaine Vacquer, Esquisse 2014, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France, $14.00
This blend of 40% Roussane, 40% Macabeo and 20% Grenache Blanc was fresh and clean with melon, pear and spice notes.
ROSÉ WINES
Le Pot du Clos, Rosé 2014, IGP Pays d’Oc, France, $NA
This was very fresh with good acidity, medium body and flavors of melon and berry fruit; really lovely.

Domaine Cazes, Le Canon Rosé 2014, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France, $11.00
Produced from a blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre, this rosé was more Provençal in style than the others I tasted, with slight berry fruit on the nose and palate.

Domaine Vacquer, L’Ephémère Rosé 2014, Cotes du Roussillon, France, $14.00
Produced from a blend of 1/3 each: Carignan, Grenache Noir and Syrah, this wine was subdued, but elegant, with mineral, melon and long length.

Penya, Rosé 2014, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France $11.00
Cooperative Penya is located in the French Catalan area, just north of Spain. The 96% Grenache Noir and 4% Syrah blend, produced from vines with an average age of 25-35 years displays aromas of under-ripe strawberry and slight herbs on the nose. It is dry, but with a hint of sweetness on the attack, with crisp acidity and a clean finish.

RED WINES
Penya, Rouge 2013, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France $10.00
An unoaked blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 15% Carignan and 5% Mourvèdre, this wine offers up intense berry aromas on the nose with herbs; dry rich, concentrated berries, dried herbs, good acidy, really nice.

Domaine Vaquer, Cuvée Bernard 2012, IGP Cotes Catalanes, France $20.00
Another one of my top picks! The Vaquer family has owned the property for more than 100 years. Bernard Vaquer, for whom this wine is named, passed away in 2001; the 25-hectare, high altitude property is currently managed by his wife, Frederique, who was born and raised in Burgundy. Bringing together 33% each of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, aromas of red fruit and herbs greet the nose. On the palate, it is quite elegant, with medium+ body; medium tannins; cherry, berry and herbal flavors; and long length.

Domaine Cabirau Serge & Nicolas 2012, Maury Sec, France $22.00
From one of the newer Roussillon appellations, this wine is a blend of 60% Grenache, 28C% Syrah and 12% Carignan. The 13.5-acre property was purchased by Hand Picked Selections President, Dan Kraitz, with this wine named for the vineyard manager – Serge Soulatge – and winemaker – Nicolas Burger – who are responsible for assisting Dan in crafting this wine. The wine was aged for 5 months in large oak vats yielding intense and concentrated fruit, with notes of smoke and herbs. It is dry with a sweet attack of red fruit, with medium acidity, medium+ body and lovely freshness that pervades the palate.

Domaine de l’Edre, L’Edre 2011, Cotes du Roussillon Villages, France $30.00
A blend of 46% Syrah, 26% Grenache, 19% Carignan and 9% Mourvèdre, this wine is produced at the extremely low yield of only 1.27 tons/acre from a sustainably grown vineyard in Vingrau, jointly farmed by friends Jacques Castany and Pascal Dienunidou. This wine is produced in two versions – unoaked and oaked. Aromas of berries and pomegranate dominate the nose and palate, it is very polished and focused. The dry palate offers medium+ acidity with bramble fruit and juicy berries and ripe, rich tannins.

Domaine de l’Edre, L’Edre 2010, Cotes du Roussillon Villages, France $30.00
A nearly identical production to the wine above, but this time aged in oak (12 months in 2nd use French oak barrels), this wine displays a slight aroma of oak on nose, joined by blackberry and leather. The full-bodied palate shows well-integrated oak, rich black fruit and long length; really beautiful.

FORTIFIED WINES
Clos Saint Georges Muscat de Rivesaltes Cuvée Eva 2014, Rivesaltes, France, $15.00
Offering lovely, floral aromas, this wine is nicely balanced, with slight licorice and anise notes in the finish.

Domaine Treloar Muscat de Rivesaltes 2013, Rivesaltes, France, $14.00
This wine is so beautifully balanced that its sweetness is almost imperceptible at first. Mineral and anise notes linger in the long length.

Domaine Boucabeille Rivesaltes Ambré Hors d’Age, Rivesaltes, France, €27.00
A vin doux rancio wine, it is showing some initial development, with lots of spice on the nose and palate.

Domaine Cazes Rivesaltes Ambré 1997, Rivesaltes, France $30.00
Produced from Grenache Blanc, this wine spent considerable time in cask before being bottled in 2013. It is complex and rich with dried fruit and spice and would pair beautifully with pumpkin pie.

Terrassous Rivesaltes Ambré 1992, Rivesaltes, France, $50.00
This wine was almost Cognac-like in its aromas and flavors, displaying complex and developing notes on both the nose and palate.

Terrassous Rivesaltes Ambré 1981, Rivesaltes, France, $66.00
Spicy, stunning and simply amazing; my favorite of the three Terrassous Rivesaltes Ambré selections listed here.

Terrassous Rivesaltes Ambré 1974, Rivesaltes, France, $83.00
Intense aromas and flavors; quite lovely, with lots of life still remaining.

A Time and a Place for Hungarian Wines

Posted on July 26, 2015 by Tracy

It’s easy to get lost on the shelf. Depending upon the wine shop, there are hundreds, if not thousands, of wines all eagerly vying for attention and hoping to catch the consumer’s eye.

It’s challenging enough to stand out in the sea of Merlots or Cabs or Chardonnays. But how does a Hungarian wine make its mark, especially when – at least in one sad, but true story – it is relegated to the sake section?

Admittedly, the number of imports from Hungary is relatively small compared to those from other countries and consumer recognition is even smaller, so it can be complicated to know where to merchandise these wines. But, that shouldn’t stand in the way of getting great wines into the glasses of obliging consumers.

Although some consumers might be familiar with Hungary’s Tokaji Aszu dessert style wines, more recently, a new wave of Hungarian wines are being brought to the U.S. market. One campaign seeks to promote dry Furmint wines, the same grape responsible for Tokaji, but equally capable of producing food-friendly, crisp whites.

Another project in this regard comes from a collaboration between Hungarian producer Bognar-Vin and Monika Elling of Foundations Marketing Group (FMG). In addition to pulling from her Hungarian background, Monika has the experience and savvy to understand the U.S. wine market as well as what does and doesn’t work, and has parlayed her intelligence into this new crop of wines.

Her partner, Bognar-Vin, is among the largest family-owned wineries in Hungary, with several different brands under the corporate umbrella. They also produce cordials. After achieving success in other export markets, Bognar-Vin’s BGV brand is its first American launch.

The pair debuted the new collection in New York in May. The wines are well made, market friendly and represent a perfect combination of pleasing the palate at an appealing price point. The eye catching labels delight rather than dumb down or insult the wine drinker, while the wines themselves are full of fresh fruit and are well balanced.

While I enjoyed all of the wines I tasted at the lunch, the real standouts for me were the Jazmin 2014 sparkling wine, BGV Kekfrankos Rose 2014 and the BGV Cabernet Franc 2013.

Unfortunately, word on the street is that this partnership has since dissolved. Perhaps it isn’t quite the time for Hungarian wines (or at least not these Hungarian wines). But, if these examples were anything to go by, there is certainly a place in the market for them when the time comes…

When Wealth & Wine Mix: Family Business and the Pursuit of Excellence

Posted on July 12, 2015 by Tracy

Usually, when discussing wealth and wine, the joke is that to make a small fortune in wine, you start with a large one. However, a recent dinner featuring some of the leading businessmen of our time brought wealth and wine together in a different way, proving that two can co-exist, but perhaps not in the way that most vignerons would prefer.

The illustrious Le Cirque restaurant served as the setting for this special dinner, which brought together the heads of several prestigious corporations to consider the question on how best to preserve wealth from generation to generation. But, seeing themselves as “dolphins and not sharks,” they want to do so while also giving back to society and leaving a positive mark on the world.

In addition to mixing and mingling with one another and hearing from Uri Levine, who recently sold Waze to Google for a vast sum of money, the event participants had the opportunity to taste through a lovely selection of wines, carefully selected to pair with the delicious dinner. As successful leaders in their various fields, they shared much in common with the wines being presented and paired that evening – representing family businesses and the continued pursuit of excellence.

In a nod to summer, the event kicked off with a Provençal rosé, even though Mother Nature refused to acknowledge that spring had arrived, serving up cool temperatures and a string of rainy days in place of sunshine and warmth. I inwardly smiled as I got the mostly male audience to indulge in pink wine!

With its ability to pair well with a diverse selection of passed hors d’oeuvres, the Chateau d’Esclans was a good option to pour during the cocktail reception. It was also an excellent example of how owner Sacha Lichine has built a world class brand and contributed to the growth of the rosé category through the development and creation of high end, luxury rosé. Lichine originally hails from a renowned Bordeaux family, but has since pursued other regions and projects, recognizing opportunities for innovation such as what he has achieved in Provence.

During Levine’s presentation, the participants sipped on Lanhaus Meyer Grüner Veltliner. The winery’s Production Manager, Gerhard J. Lobner, has established a cooperation with wine growers in lower Austria, who had been farming vineyards for generations. He works closely with these owners to identify the best grapes and, as a result, has helped to save these vineyards that had otherwise been in danger of being abandoned.

It was then time to enjoy the main event – dinner! The mushroom risotto was a perfect companion to the Moniker Pinot Noir 2012 from Mendocino, California. Moniker is the result of the Thornhill family’s desire to bring their family together, both in business and in everyday life. The family purchased the winery in 2004 and as befitting a family business, each member of the family holds a different role in the organization. And the winemaker married into the family. Moreover, they are good stewards of the land; the property is Certified Fish Friendly and they use an innovative drip irrigation.

The main course of fillet of beef was beautifully paired with Wente Nth Degree Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 from the Livermore Valley. The name Wente has been around for 130 years, earning the title as the country’s oldest, continuously operated family-owned winery. Today, the fourth and fifth generations are at the helm of this company. With an extreme focus on quality, the Nth degree line is artisanal and handcrafted. For example, the vineyard sees as many as 15 passes through the vines over the growing season to tend the grapes and ensure that they are in excellent health.

As a sweet ending to the evening, the Marenco Brachetto d’Acqui Pineto 2013 from Piedmont, Italy was exquisite with the strawberry pavlova. The Marenco family has been in the wine industry since the 1900s, developing the business throughout the 20th century. The first winery was built near the Strevi train station to get the wine direct to the customers. Today, the three daughters – Michela, Doretta and Patrizia – run the company.

All in all, the confluence of wealth and wine flowed in many directions over the course of the meal, bringing everyone together in the enjoyment of great food, lovely wine and good company!

Buena Vista Winery unveils new Wine Tool Museum

Posted on March 15, 2015 by Tracy

Sharp edges glisten in the spotlight, looking more like an executioner’s axe than something wielded by an enologist. But, these blades actually belong to a collection of pomace cutters, used for removing grape skins from the press.

Indeed, getting from grape to glass takes a series of labor-intensive, time-consuming tasks. Just as diverse and varied are the specialized tools used in each step along the way. From planting vines and harvesting grapes to crafting oak barrels, each instrument has a distinct purpose, propelling the process forward.

Though technology has evolved with time, these implements still hold interest and fascination as well as provide a glimpse back into the past. A unique look at these historic devices will be made public at the equally historic Buena Vista Winery in Somona, CA when it unveils its Wine Tool Museum on March 24, 2015.

Established in 1857 by Agoston Haraszthy, Buena Vista Winery is among the oldest wineries in the U.S. Haraszthy was a true pioneer in the wine industry, leading the way for the use of European varieties and (then) modern methods in the vineyard and winery. After much exploration throughout California (including a stint as San Diego’s first elected sheriff), he was among the first to recognize the potential of Carneros (the southern sub-AVA that spans both Napa and Sonoma), where he chose to locate his Buena Vista Vinicultural Society.

Unfortunately, Haraszthy’s legacy languished first under Prohibition and then under a revolving door of ownership. However, in 2011, the estate was purchased by Jean-Charles Boisset, whose Boisset Collection of wineries also spans Napa and Sonoma as well as Europe.

Boisset was intent on restoring glory to the storied winery and has since invested heavily in the infrastructure. Most notably, the original land-marked cellar building received a full renovation, including a state-of-the-art reinforcement of its walls to protect against earthquakes. While certainly not planned, the seismic retrofit passed its August 2014 test with flying colors; the building didn’t sustain any damage at all!

With the interior renovations now completed, the ground floor serves as home to Jean Charles’ Bubble Lounge, a place to enjoy a range of sparkling wines produced by Buena Vista and several other Boisset properties.

Display cases line the walls of the stairwell and show off a beautiful collection of decanters, setting the stage for the exhibit to come. Upon arrival on the third floor, visitors will be greeted by a 20 minute video presentation guiding them through exhibit and introducing them to the tools, their respective functions and the history of Buena Vista.

The unique opportunity to visually experience the tools of the trade will provide tasters with a deeper understanding of how wine is made and perhaps a greater appreciation for those who toil to make it.

The Art of Storytelling

Posted on September 15, 2014 by Tracy

Once upon a time (aka earlier this month), I traveled to Seattle, which was initially founded with a settlement called New York-Alki, located across Elliott Bay from the present-day city. Established back in 1851, the settlement’s name meant “New York-in a little while,” supposedly for the site’s resemblance to Manhattan island, but also perhaps some wishful thinking on the part of the settlers?

While the early families were lured by land grants given to them by the U.S. government to protect the U.S. from Canada, I was drawn by the opportunity to catch up with friends and colleagues who were in town for the Society of Wine Educators’ annual conference. Although admittedly, my only official conference attendance was at a reception at the Chihuly Garden and Glass exhibit at Seattle Center.

For the remainder of my visit, I played the role of tourist making sure to hit all of the top spots – the Space Needle, Pike Market and the Underground Tour. This latter attraction proved to be among the highlights of my trip despite its lack of a connection to wine.*

Created by Bill Speidel in 1965 as part of his efforts to save the historic neighborhood of Pioneer Square, the tour takes tourists on an adventure one story below Seattle’s streets, Strewn with ancient artifacts (frescoes, building facades and an original Crapper toilet) and more modern detritus (movie props left behinds from the 1970s), the journey is truly a walk back through time.

But, the environment itself would fall flat if it wasn’t for the guides who regale participants with well-rehearsed stories, punctuated by well-timed humor. Suddenly, the cast of characters are brought to life and history is exciting instead of boring.

For example, early resident (and madam) Lou Graham was among those responsible for an intriguing discovery during one of the city’s first censuses. The study revealed that loggers, who accounted for the vast majority of workers in Seattle at the time, made any average of $20/month. Meanwhile, members of the seamstress circle were bringing home $400/month; not bad for a town with limited need for bespoke garments and haberdashery. The astute city council saw their opportunity and levied a $10/week tax for all 2,700 seamstresses on their non-existent sewing machines.

The 1.5 hours flew by rather quickly, bringing the tour to an end, but my interest in Seattle history was piqued and the stories remained fresh in my mind even a week later.

Stories engage us, fascinate us and challenge us much more than simple facts and figures. Yet, when we talk about wine, how frequently do we find ourselves speaking about varietal percentages, acidity levels and types of oak trees.

Instead, isn’t it more interesting to know that Chateau de Villambis in Bordeaux operates its vineyard under a Help Center for Work permitting them to offer work to people with disabilities or that Mas Blanch I Jove in Catalonia supports the arts by commissioning a new sculpture for its vineyard each year?

Just something to consider the next time you teach wine or any other subject for that matter.

*If you take the more adult-themed tour at night (when it is renamed the Underworld Tour), the ticket price includes one cocktail.

Southern Burgundy and Beaujolais offer great wine options with good value

Posted on August 23, 2014 by Tracy

Image of Julienas, courtesy of DiscoverBeaujolais.com

Georges Dubouef Chateau des Capitans 2011 Juliénas, France, $19.00 Beaujolais bashers need not apply. We typically think of Beaujolais in the fall when Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé – the third Thursday of November. But, Beaujolais is much more than Nouveau and, as a lighter-bodied red, it’s perfect for summer sipping. Produced from the thin skinned Gamay grape, Beaujolais is generally low in tannins, high in acidity, with bright cherry fruit and capable of taking a slight chill.

Nouveau aside, the Beaujolais hierarchy starts at the base with Beaujolais, while wines produced with grapes sourced from the better vineyards (located in 39 well regarded villages) are a step above and labeled as Beaujolais-Villages. Even more rarified as those wines designated as crus, which are named and labeled for one of the ten villages their grapes respectively come from.

Belying its Roman origin having been named for Julius Cesar, Juliénas is located quite northerly in the Beaujolais region where the more granitic soils are found. Situated within the heart of Juliénas, the Chateau des Capitans estate is home to a 19th century castle. Since the site is thought to have been a headquarters for military staff during the Gallo-Roman period, the castle’s name pays homage to the captains who presumably lived there once upon a time.

Tasting note: Aromas of fresh cherries, cinnamon and wet leaves persist on the palate with high acidity, light body and low tannins; nice round mouthfeel and good length.

Georges Duboeuf Domaine les Chenevières 2011, Mâcon-Villages, France, $14.00 Just north of Beaujolais, the Mâconnais district is part of the Burgundy region and is known for its Chardonnay. The district is structured similarly to Beaujolais in that wines feature either the basic appellation of Mâcon, the higher appellation of Mâcon-Villages or the more prized appellations of Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Saint-Véran and Viré-Clessé. However, the district also permits village level wines to append the name of specific villages or communes, as in the case of Mâcon-Lugny.

With a warmer climate than that found in the Cote d’Or district, Mâconnais Chardonnays generally offer up riper and more tropical fruit notes as well as lower price points. Domaine les Chenevières has been the setting for five generations of winemaking for the family that owns it, with portions of the family’s residence built over 300 years ago.

Tasting note: On the nose, this wine displays damp earth, butter and apple notes. The dry palate offers bright acidity, medium-full body and an elegant richness; unwooded with 100% malolactic fermentation.

The new question: To beef or not to beef?

Posted on July 11, 2014 by Tracy

Dario Cecchini, Butcher of Panzano with Julien Niccolini of the Four Seasons

The Four Seasons restaurant welcomed members of the Chianti Classico consorzio at a special dinner last month, in concert with the U.S. Premiere Tasting of Chianti Classico Gran Selezione wines. The dinner featured Chef Dario Cecchini who posed the very important question: To beef or not to be? Since Cecchini is the renowned “Butcher of Panzano,” I think you can guess where his answer lies. The Gran Selezione producers/winery owners were also present at the dinner.

The Chianti Classico Gran Selezione is a relatively new category for these wines, added by the Consorzio in 2013. This category ranks higher than the Chianti Classico Riserva wines (see pyramid image) and is used only for the top wines of the region, which are produced exclusively from estate-grown grapes and follow stricter parameters. The Gran Selezione wines must also adhere to longer aging requirements.

Among my favorite wines poured at the dinner were the Castello Vicchimaggio Vigna La Prima 2010, Greve in Chianti (which was lucky because the owner was sitting at my table), Bibbiano Vigna del Capannino 2010, Castellina in Chianti; and Casaloste Don Vincenzo 2009, Greve in Chianti.

It's A Winederful Life

Living la vita del vino with Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

Author Archives: Tracy