Author Archives: Tracy

Fun times with fresh wines, Rioja’s El Coto wines

Posted on by
Reply

A Not-So-Silent Disco with El Coto…

Last week we were excited to participate in a Silent Disco event at Fort Tryon Park with friends and neighbors. Yet, at the last minute, the event was postponed due to inclement weather. Yuck! (And good call on the organizers’ part as dancing in the rain with expensive headphones isn’t a great idea). But, we were disappointed not to get together and enjoy each other’s company.

Accordingly, we moved the celebration indoors, sans dancing, and invited the group to gather at our apartment. I offered up wine; our neighbors said they’d bring snacks. True to their word, H and T arrived at our door with a tray, bearing cheeses, salami, fruit and crackers. Meanwhile, I had set the table with a few snacks of our own and had chilled several wines from El Coto. Situated in Spain’s Rioja region, this winery was established in 1970 and is still going strong.

Despite the wet weather, it was still a hot and muggy summer night, so we were all eager to enjoy some chilled wines. The El Coto Blanco and El Coto Rose were the perfect options to pair with our impromptu party!

I opened up the rose first and the bottle was soon empty (a clear crowd favorite!), necessitating that we turn our attention to the white, which was also greatly appreciated by our guests. As it grew late, we wrapped up our conversations, and cleaned up as everyone soon cleared out. All in all, it was a lovely evening!

A few days later, I opened up the El Coto Crianza, which had been touted as being a red wine capable of being chilled. My previous experience with chilled reds has been primarily limited to Beaujolais and other fresh and fruity reds; I wondered how the Rioja would fare with time in the fridge. I needn’t have worried; it was really nice and paired well with my leftover paella.

Looking for refreshing wines to enjoy on a hot summer day? Look no further than this trio from El Coto!

TASTING NOTES

El Coto Blanco 2022, Rioja, Spain, SRP $11.99


This wine is a blend of 93% Viura, 4% Sauvignon Blanc and 3% Verdejo. It displays notes of citrus and pear on the nose. The dry palate provides medium acidity, medium body and flavors of citrus, pear and apple, culminating in long length.

El Coto Rose 2021, Rioja, Spain, SRP $11.99

Bringing together Rioja’s traditional Tempranillo (90% ) and Garnacha (10%), this beautifully-hued salmon pink wine offered up aromas and flavors of raspberry and strawberry. It is fresh and lively, with medium acidity, medium body, and medium plus length. Easy drinking and very food friendly.

El Coto Crianza 2019, Rioja, Spain, SRP $16.99

Sporting 100% Tempranillo, this wine was aged in oak for at least 12 months with an additional six months in bottle, prior to release, as befits its Crianza designation. Aromas of wood, blackberry and raspberry greet the nose. The palate is dry, with bright acidity, flavors of berries, oak and spice, with medium plus body and medium length.

It’s Duck Season: Drinking the Natural Path Wines from Duck Pond Cellars

Posted on by
Reply

It’s the duck days of summer. It’s been super hot and then…not! But, if you are a lucky duck, you’ve got Duck Pond Cellars’ wines in your glass. In particular, their Natural Path Production wines perfectly hit the spot whether it’s 70F or 90F.

The Dundee, Oregon-based winery was founded in 1993 and has always been committed to sustainability. Its grapes are organically farmed and hand-harvested, with continued attention to detail once they reach the winery. More recently, they have become involved in the Clean Label Project, a non-profit organization “whose mission is to bring truth and transparency to food and consumer product labeling.”

Launched under the Natural Path Production line, Duck Pond’s first wines were certified by this organization with the 2020 vintage, making them the first wines in America to receive this certification.

In adherence to the certification program, the ingredients are clearly stated on the label. Additionally, they testify to low sulfite use (<=100 PPM), vegan-only fining agents and the non-use of Glyphosate and Neonicotinoid pesticides.

Equally important to Duck Pond’s focus on natural production, is that these wines are well made and well-priced, ranging from $15-$19 per bottle (winery prices; might be higher at your local wine shop). As of now, there are four wines in the Natural Path line up: Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Rose (not tasted) and Pinot Noir.

Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Pinot Gris 2022, Willamette Valley (OR), USA, $16.00
On the nose, this wine displays notes of tangerine and smoke, which persist on the dry palate. The wine is quite luscious, with bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Chardonnay 2021, Oregon, USA, $15.00
This wine offers up melon and butter aromas and flavors, and an oak undercurrent, with medium acidity, medium plus body, and long length. It was a crowd pleaser at a recent gathering of friends.

Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Pinot Noir 2021, Oregon, USA, $19.00
Fresh aromas of cherry and raspberry greet the nose. The dry palate provides ripe black cherries, herbs, and an earthy undercurrent, with medium plus acidity, medium plus body and medium plus length. Really lovely.


Georgia’s Amber Wines: Where Skin is In

Posted on by
Reply

I’ve got Georgia on my mind… the country, not the state. Widely recognized as the birthplace of winemaking, archaeological evidence gives credence to Georgia’s claim as “the world’s oldest wine-producing country.” Today, Georgia boasts 25 Protected Designations of Origin (PDOs) located across its eastern and western regions, Most of these are found in the eastern region of Kakheti, which represents 75% of the country’s plantings and 70% of total wine production. While the western region is smaller, its wines are no less important or of lower quality.

>>Learn more about Georgia’s heritage here.

Image courtesy of https://winesgeorgia.com/

More importantly, its ancient tradition is still relevant today, with modern producers continuing the use of clay vessels called qvevri (alternately kvevri) as well as reviving an emphasis on skin contact. This latter technique involves leaving the juice and skins together during fermentation, thereby resulting in an amber or orange tint to the wines, despite having been made with white grape varieties. Skin contact also imparts a tannic grip and there might be some oxidation intentionally introduced during the production.

Both the eastern and western regions produce wines with skin contact, yielding a diverse set of wines depending upon terroir, grape varieties, and the specific vinification techniques utilized in their production.

Image courtesy of https://winesgeorgia.com/

In Kakheti, the main grape varieties used for amber wine production include Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, Kisi, and Khikhvi. These wines are typically described as being complex and rustic, as well as powerful, with meditation and food friendly options.

Among the western areas, the subregions of Imereti, Racha, Lechkhumi, Guria, Samegrelo, and Adjara are known for their amber wines. The largest of these is Imereti at 15.1% of the country’s production.

Here, the key grape varieties grown for amber wines include Tsolikouri, Tsitska, and Krakhuna. Additionally, these wineries generally utilize smaller-scale production methods. The wines of Imereti are known for being lighter and fresher with less ripeness and extraction.

I recently had the good fortune to taste through three skin contact wines from Georgia, which provided an enlightening and informative look at these wonderful and exciting wines. Two of these were from Kakheti and the third was from Imereti; all of them were delicious!

Tbilvino Qvevris Kisi 2020 (SRP $24)
Made from the Kisi grape, this wine is pale amber /deep gold in color, with honey, apricot, dried fruit, and a slight oxidative note on the nose. The dry palate offers up dried apricots, exotic spices, a noticeable tannic grip, medium body and long length.

Tamada Qvevri White 2015 (SRP $26) This wine brings together Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane and Kisi grapes. Having been aged in the bottle, this wine is deep amber color, showing some development with aromas of nuts, dried fruits, and musk. The complex palate is dry, with medium acidity, full body, a slight tannic grip, flavors of tea, ginger and dried apricots, culminating in long length.

Baia’s Wine Tsitska-Tsolikouri-Krakhuna 2021 (SRP $24.99)
A blend of Tsitska, Tsolikouri and Krakhuna, the grapes were grown in the village of Obcha, Region of Imereti. This wine displays aromas of honey and floral notes. It was rich and unctuous on the dry palate, with Asian pear, peach, and is slightly effervescent, with light to medium body, nice acidity and a slightly oxidative note.


Not just another gadget, Coravin kills at anniversary dinner demo

Posted on by
Reply

Where were you 10 years ago? Some days I have trouble remembering where I was 10 hours ago (let alone 10 years), but in this case, about 10 days ago, I had the distinct pleasure of celebrating Coravin’s 10th anniversary with founder, Greg Lambrecht. It was a wonderful evening spending time with the intelligent and personable Lambrecht as we learned about the genesis of this unique wine device, designed to preserve the integrity of an “open” bottle of wine.

As an inventor and MIT-trained physicist, Lambrecht develops medical devices for spinal injuries through his company, Intrinsic Therapeutics, Inc.  When one has such capacity, it’s hard not to use those same skills to solve your own “problems”.

His “problem”? How to enjoy high quality wine in a single serving without negatively impacting the rest of the bottle/wine (once a wine is opened and has exposure to air/oxygen, it will eventually begin to oxidize). The situation was exacerbated when his wife became pregnant and gave up drinking. A devout, long-time wine aficionado (Lambrecht first fell in love with wine at age 16 on a trip to the Napa Valley), he wanted to be able to enjoy a glass or two with dinner. Thus, he sought to address the problem for his own daily enjoyment.

His initial thoughts on how to build a better mouse trap (such as mimicking tools like the Vacuvin) didn’t seem to yield the correct solution. Thus, while he felt that he needed a better way to solve this conundrum, it wasn’t until he came upon the key thought – to not open the bottle – that idea for Coravin came about.

The first prototype debuted in 1999 and was dubbed the “mosquito” by his young son. Prototype 1.5 included the all-important regulator, which he quickly discovered was essential due to the extreme pressure of the gases (argon or nitrogen) being pumped into the bottle to replace the lost (aka drink) wine.

It took 14 iterations to get it right. But, despite the time and energy invested in these iterations, it wasn’t until 2011 that he founded the company, Coravin, recognizing that it could become a commercial product able to solve the same issue for other people. The Coravin product was officially launched in 2013.

Building on that success, his latest product is Vinitas, which came about as a request from wine director, Daniel Johannes during the Pandemic. Johannes wanted to be able to send out samples of high-end wines for his La Paulee event since meeting in person wasn’t an option. Lambrecht took on the challenge, but it took a full three years to develop the tool. The resulting machine breaks down the volume of a bottle of wine into fractions, while ensuring that the wine remains unharmed by exposure to air. Lambrecht joked it is the “smallest bottling line”.

While not ready in time to address Johannes’ quandary over La Paulee, Vinitas is useful for wineries and wine stores to permit the customer to more easily sample wine with a smaller commitment and is currently available to be leased.

Today, Coravin is available in 60 different countries and Lambrecht now spends only 50% of his time in medical devices development, traveling worldwide to promote his vinous inventions.

Not surprisingly, as someone who invents devices that improve people’s health, Lambrecht has always been motivated by the desire to positively influence people’s lives. Consequently, he is extremely gratified by the positive impact that Coravin has had on the wine world and in the way that people drink wine. is also proud to be a disrupter and shared stories of how he was initially met with skepticism or even outright disdain. In this regard, the sommelier of a prestigious German restaurant refused to take a meeting with him and the owner of a French chateau threatened to thwart his product by the insertion of a metal strip under the capsule. Both of whom eventually saw Coravin’s benign benefit. Similarly, wine critic Robert Parker made it clear that he had no interest in “gadgets” yet by the end of the meal he shared with Lambrecht, he was a true convert.

Which brings me back to the Coravin celebration with Lambrecht at Le Pavillion restaurant in New York City, at which we tasted a 2001 Bordeaux, which had been “opened” 19 years ago under Coravin. It was still very enjoyable and showed no signs of oxidation. It was quite a triumph, even to Lambrecht who had only previously anticipated a 15-year window. Equally impressive, if not more so, we tasted Rare Champagne 2008, which had been opened under Coravin for two weeks and was still very effervescent, displaying small, persistent bubbles for over an hour in my glass!  

Coravin is not particularly intended for the average consumer to purchase directly (although if you have the means, I am sure they would be happy to sell it to you). Rather, the average consumer can certainly benefit from Coravin by having the opportunity to taste high end wines at restaurants and wine bars without having to invest in an entire bottle.

So, on the arrival of Coravin’s anniversary, I invite you to raise a glass and toast the ingenuity of a wine-obsessed physicist. Cheers to Lambrecht and cheers to Coravin!


Summer Sippers: 2023 Edition

Posted on by
Reply

Summertime… and the living is easy (or at least less encumbered compared to winter – no hats, gloves or scarves or bulky winter coats).

The Summer Solstice is upon us, and, although the weather doesn’t quite feel like it, it is indeed summertime and the season for barbecues, picnics and other outdoor endeavors. It’s a great time to gravitate towards fresh whites, lighter reds and the ubiquitous roses. Sparkling wines are also a fabulous option for this time of year (check out my story on Moscato d’Asti).

Villa Maria EarthGarden Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, New Zealand, $20.00
From one of my favorite NZ producers, this wine is produced as a blend of 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes harvested from several vineyards, all of which are sustainably grown. What that means is that the vineyards are free from synthetic pesticides and herbicides and are planted with a plethora of wildflowers to attract bees and beneficial insects. The nose offers up pronounced aromas of grapefruit and a slight herbal note. The medium bodied palate is fresh and bright, with grapefruit, herbs and the addition of lime, culminating in long length.

Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2021, Barossa Valley, Australia, $14.00
This wine underwent wild fermentation and lees aging, both of which add depth and complexity to the wine. With distinct floral, tangerine and tropical fruit aromas on the nose, the full bodied palate provides good acidity, joined by flavors of ginger and citrus, with long length.


C’Est La Vie Pinot Noir Syrah 2020, Vin de Pays, France, $13.00
From Burgundian producer, Albert Bichot, this red blend (60% Pinot Noir and 40% Syrah) is a fresh and lively, easy drinking wine that’s perfect for a picnic or barbecue. With aromas of spice, earth, smoke and berries, it is dry, yet ripe, on the palate with medium+ acidity, medium+ body and medium+ length.

Moscato d’Asti: In an Asti vibe

Posted on by
Reply

Are you in an Asti vibe? A recent Masterclass was the perfect opportunity to reacquaint myself with these sweet, sparkling wines from Italy’s Piedmont region. With the goal of transferring the grape to the glass, these wines benefit from the Moscato Bianco grape variety’s highly aromatic character.

Situated within Piedmont is the province of Asti, at the foot of the Italian Alps. The climate is influenced by both the mountains and its proximity to the sea and the soils are comprised of ancient sea beds. Viticulture must be manual due to the significantly steep vineyards. The various altitudes and variety of soils conspire to produce a range of aromatic compounds that provide complexity in the glass.

Here, Moscato Bianco grapes have been grown in the area since 1510, a transplant from the Middle East. There are 51 towns who lay claim to the Moscato d’Asti DOCG, which was the first sparkling wine produced in Italy back in 1865 by Carlo Gancia.

Utilizing the Charmat Method, the wines are pressurized in stainless steel tanks,
preserving the aromatics in the wine and adding a slight effervescence, with a maximum of 2 bars of pressure (by contrast Champagne and other fully sparkling wines have 5 yo 6 bars of pressure).

The production method also requires that the wines maintain sweetness. Consequently, they generally range from 120-150 g/l of residual sugar, which is well balanced with sufficient acidity and bubbles. This also means that these wines are much lower in alcohol with 5-6% alcohol by volume.

With this lightness, freshness and lower alcohol, these are great wines for the heat of summer and are a perfect pairing with fruit, light desserts or an excellent counterbalance to a salty, savory dish such as prosciutto with melon.

TASTING NOTES

Coppo Moncalvina Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
Coppo has been making Moscato since day one of the winery, among its other wines. Aromas of floral notes, gardenia and pear greet the nose. The palate is medium sweet, light bodied, with good effervescence and freshness. The acidity and sweetness are well balanced, with flavors of lemon candy and floral, culminating in long length.

Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
At Chiarlo, they take great pride in managing the Moscato vineyards with the same care they give to Barolo vines. The wine displayed lots of visible bubbles, with aromas of peach and blossom. The palate was less sweet than the Coppo, with great acidity, light body, peach flavors, persistent bubbles, and long length.

Caudrina La Caudrina Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
Redolent of honeysuckle, this wine is medium sweet, yet fresh, with lovely effervescence; flavors of honey, honeysuckle and hint of herbs; culminating in medium+ length.

I Vignaioli di Santo Stefano – Ceretto Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
A fresh nose with honey and cantaloupe aromas and flavors, this wine is off dry, with bright and lively acidity on the palate. The mouthwatering character of the wine lingers in the medium+ length.

Marenco Scrapona Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
The mention of Scrapona on the label refers to a specific vineyard from which the grapes for this wine are harvested. Slight skin contact resulting in a hint of color. White flowers, fresh, balanced, lightly sweet, pear, honey, long length with a clean finish.

Let’s hear it for Grenache/Garnacha: Winners of the International Competition Grenaches du Monde just announced

Posted on by
Reply

I had the pleasure of serving as a juror for the 11th annual International Competition Grenaches du Monde. As such, I tasted through 80 wine samples featuring the Grenacha, aka Garnacha, grape, in all of its guises: white, rosé, red, and fortified sweet wines. This grape variety is capable of creating world class wines and, from the blind samples I tasted, it was clear that there is a lot of wonderful wine being produced and expertly showcasing this great grape.

Organized by the Asociación Garnacha Origen of Spain and the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Roussillon/ CIVR of France, this year’s competition was held outside of Europe for this very first time. It featured over 800 Garnacha/Grenache wines from producers across France, Spain, Italy, and the US, which were judged by a panel of 80 U.S. wine industry jurors, including sommeliers, media, distributors, importers, and influencers.

Wines were judged in early to mid-June, with the results announced this week. A total of 233 wines of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and 35 wines from the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) earned medals.

To view the 286 medalists, visit International Competition Grenaches du Monde Medalists 

LEARN MORE | OTHER LINKS

Link to INTRODUCTION TO GARNACHA/GRENACHE

Link for GARNACHA/GRENACHE BACKGROUND INFORMATION

Link to Wines of Garnacha/Grenache Infographics

Link to GarnachaGrenache 

Another Pineau to Know: Pineau des Charentes

Posted on by
Reply

Fortified wines aren’t very well known among most consumers, And, no, it has nothing to do with vitamins. Rather, the fortification comes in the form of the addition of a grape-based spirit to raise the alcohol level and consequently halt the fermentation process. As a result, some of the sweetness in the wine remains instead of being fully converted to alcohol as would be the case with a dry wine.

While Port, Sherry and Madeira are more recognizable in this category, Pineau des Charentes is definitely deserving of consideration. It hails from the Charente and Charente-Maritime regions of France, which is where Cognac is made and has had Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status since 1945, which guarantees quality and an adherence to minimum production requirements.

In particular, it must be aged for at least 18 months, 12 of which must be spent in oak. Wines designated as “old” must age for a minimum of seven years, while the “very old” must age for 12 years. Produced from Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Folle Blanche and other local grape varieties, it shares many similarities with Cognac, but are generally sweet wines, with an alcohol level of 17% (compared to 40% proof Cognac).

Not surprisingly, with its freshness and lower alcohol, it is well suited to cocktails. In fact, it is quite versatile and diverse in its expression, yielding a wide range of options. These wines can also be enjoyed on their own and can be a great pairing throughout the meal – not just with dessert – despite their sweetness. Rather, they are quite food friendly, a point made abundantly clear at a recent dinner at l’Accolade in New York City’s West Village neighborhood.

Presided over by Ms. Franky Marshall, who bills herself as a modern bartender, the evening got off to a great start with a Pineau & Tonic with thyme and grapefruit, which beautifully displayed the freshness, balance and aromatics of this wine. Franky has been working with Pineau des Charentes since 2017, and, once we were seated, paired each dish with a different Pineau option. In this fashion, she joked that we were “speed dating” the wines.

I was very impressed with the breadth and depth of what was in the glass and really enjoyed drinking the Pineaus with the meal.

With my Coconut Shrimp appetizer, prepared with coconut, peanut dressing and a pepper cabbage salad, I enjoyed two Pineau des Charentes. The first of which was distinctly floral with maple aromas and flavors, while the second option was more intense and heavier in its texture and weight on the palate. They each matched well, but I was more partial to the former, as a counterpoint to the dressing.

My main course of Monkfish served with zuchini, shrimp nage and mango puree was accompanied by one with caramel notes and a clean finish and another that was lighter, with bright acidity. Both were really lovely with the richness of the dish.

For dessert, I had the chocolate mousse with almondine, orange chocolate cake and almond puree. My Pineau pairings included a wine with light citrus notes that was medium sweet yet well balanced, with an herbal undercurrent. The other was more complex, with fuller body, caramel, burnt orange and rancio aromas and flavors, that had been aged for 15 years. The two wines paired really well, but the second wine was my favorite of the two for its complexity and rancio character.

If these wines are not on your radar (and likely they aren’t), I encourage you to seek them out or perhaps encourage your favorite bartender to try their hand at Pineau cocktails – for a twist on a classic or their own, new creation.

For more information on Pineau des Charentes, check out the Pineau Academy: https://pineauacademy.com/


What’s your vice? Consider The Vice wines your next vice.

Posted on by
Reply

What’s your vice? For Malek Amrani and his wife, Tori Greenberg, the answer is wine. A former sales professional for Moet Hennessy and Diageo, Malek has a keen understanding of the wine world and consumer preferences. He also counts pizza and triathlons among his “moral faults”, while Tori’s other vices include fashion, sleep and rose.

The pair always dreamed of owning their own winery and now they do. In fact, while they launched The Vice several years ago, they recently opened a permanent location in St. Helena in the Napa Valley, further cementing their dream.

On the joint holidays of National Wine Day and National Chardonnay Day, Malek hosted a virtual tasting with members of the media to celebrate the opening as well as the release of their 100th wine. As a self-defined “luxury wine brand,” the wines are produced in small, numbered batches.

Primarily focused on Napa Valley terroir, The Vice’s mission is to make exceptional wines accessible. In pursuit of this goal, Malek currently works with 18 different varieties, sourced from 14 of Napa’s 16 AVAs. Their white label wines are their house tier, while the black label is reserved for single vineyard wines.

Among the most recent batches is the aforementioned 100th wine. Aptly named The Napa Dream (and also referred to as Batch #100), it is a Chardonnay sourced from a Certified Napa Green vineyard situated “at the far eastern edge of Los Carneros AVA”. It spent 30 months in new French Oak barrels.

TASTING NOTES

The Vice The Napa Dream Batch #100 Chardonnay 2020, Los Carneros (CA), USA, $46.00
This wine is deep golden yellow with nutty, butterscotch aromas that persist on the dry, rich full-bodied palate. It has bright acidity and flavors of roasted nuts, caramel, citrus and minerality, culminating in long length. Lovely and complex.

The Vice Orange of Viognier ‘Brooklynites 6.0’ 2022, California, USA, $33.00
With Viognier grapes sourced from Napa’s Oak Knoll District and Brentwood, Contra Costa, this wine brings together two different climates and thus a diversity of expression. It offers up floral and peach aromas, which persist on the palate with fresh acidity, medium body and long length. It is really refreshing, easy to drink (too easy!?!) and food friendly.

The Vice The OG, Cabernet Franc 2021, Los Carneros (CA), USA, $54.00
As Malek shared at the event, Cabernet Franc is fast becoming the hottest grape in Napa Valley (more so than Cabernet Sauvignon). Leafy and cranberry aromas greet the nose, with a dry palate, bright acidity, medium+ body and flavors of wet leaves and plum, with long length. Powerful, yet balanced.

Make Mine A Malbec, 2023 edition, a reflection on winemaking style

Posted on by
Reply

As I’ve written before, the Malbec grape originated in France and is currently grown in Bordeaux, the Loire Valley and Cahors. But, despite Malbec’s association with France, it is planted in much greater numbers in Argentina. More specifically, Argentina’s long relationship with Malbec dates to 1853 when agronomist Michel Aimé Pouget brought the grape to from Europe to the New World country, having been hired to run an agricultural school there. In addition to the school’s influence, Argentina’s early viticulture was also shaped by Italian and French immigrants, who brought their grape growing experience and expertise with them.

Not surprisingly, I have had the opportunity to compare and contrast Malbec-based wines in the past, both with regard to producer as well as with regard to region of production (i.e. Argentina vs. France).

However, I recently had the particularly interesting chance to taste two Malbecs side-by-side, which differed markedly in winemaking approaches: traditional red wine production vs. carbonic maceration.

Traditional red wine production is fairly well known and understood by consumers, but carbonic maceration is less familiar, since it is mostly confined to the production of Beaujolais Noveau. Utilizing intracellular fermentation, carbonic maceration typically produces lighter style wines with a fresh fruit flavor profile. This was not a winemaking technique brought to bear on the Malbec grape… until now. In fact, there appears to be a trend among Argentine producers (see: this story) in using this unusual approach with Argentinian grapes.

Now, joining this small coterie of carbonic macerators, Domaine Bousquet has added its Gaia Nouveau Malbec to the mix. Produced with certified organic Malbec grapes, winemaker Rodrigo Serrano decided, “Why not try to make a carbonic maceration Malbec?” Answering his own question affirmatively, the first wine was made with the 2022 vintage to rave reviews.

The counter balance, with a more traditional approach, was Antigal’s Uno Malbec 2019, also made with organic Malbec grapes and produced solely in stainless steel tanks (no wood/oak influence).

I was previously introduced to Antigal in 2018 (see story). Obviously a lot has happened in the world since then, so it was a pleasure to receive a sample of the current vintage of this wine to reacquaint myself. Proudly bearing its metallic numeral 1 breast plate, this wine comes from Antigal’s Uno collection.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Nouveau Malbec 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00
(100% Malbec, certified organic)
This wine presents with fresh berry aromas. It is light bodied, with fresh berries and a hint of earth, with lively acidity and bright freshness on the dry palate with long length.

Antigal Uno Malbec 2019, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00
(100% Malbec, organic grapes)
This wine has a pronounced nose with black and blue fruit, spice and vanilla, which persist on the dry palate, with ripe, medium-firm tannins, culminating with medium+ length.