I have previously extolled the virtues of Sherry, but it bears repeating: Sherry is super food-friendly, delicious and produced in a wide range of styles suitable for nearly anytime and any occasion. Sherry is also super versatile, as was demonstrated earlier this month at the Tio Pepe Challenge.
The 2019 edition of the Challenge marked the sixth year of this international competition, which brings bartenders and mixologists head to head with the goal of crafting the perfect Sherry cocktail. Held in mid-April, the six national finalists converged in New York city at Osamil to compete.
Each person was required to complete a blind tasting, demonstrate their Sherry pouring technique wielding a venencia and last but not least, participate in a cocktail showdown. The competing cocktails featured different Tio Pepe products and ranged from sweet to super savory (toasted sesame seeds, anyone?).
Judged by Master Blender Antonio Flores, International Brand Ambassador Álvaro Plata, and Courtney Schiessl of The Tasting Panel, the U.S. Final saw Javier Ortega Diaz of Vegas’ The Libertine Social beat out Joshua Fossitt, Carlie Steiner, Tiana Dillard, Alexander Lazzari, and Patrick McDonald. As the winner, Diaz will travel to participate in the International Final on May 15 in Jerez, Spain.
Guests at the event could taste the cocktails and also had the opportunity to taste other Tio Pepe sherries, while enjoying a selection of oysters, tapas and other light bites. Overall, the Challenge proved that Sherry can hold its own in the bar setting as well as it does at the tapas bar or table.
Here is the recipe to the winning cocktail: Sophia by Javier Ortega Diaz, The Libertine Social, Las Vegas. WINNER
2 oz. Tio Pepe Fino Sherry
¾ oz. blood orange liqueur
½ oz. freshly squeezed Lime Juice
½ oz. homemade kumquat, rosemary, thyme syrup
1 oz. homemade sparkling hibiscus water
Garnish with slice kumquats, rosemary, thyme, and edible
flowers.
Life is often about fate. Whether you believe fate is predestined or that you make your own is another story, but it all comes down to series of different choices and their resulting consequences. This is the underpinning of the Story of Esther, which features prominently in the celebration of Purim. The Purim holiday takes its name from the Hebrew word for lots, since the fate of the Jewish people had been sealed by the wicked Haman who had cast lots as to which date their extermination would take place. Fortunately, his plot was foiled by the bravery of Queen Esther, and instead of the Jews being sent to the gallows, it was Haman who met his demise on that fateful day.
With such an emphasis on fate, it was fitting to meet Victor Schoenfeld of Yarden Winery on Purim this month. Thankfully, Victor’s own fate has never been so dire (at least not that I am aware), but it was a series of individual choices that he made that have brought him to his current role and place in the wine industry.
In pursuit of his love of food and the land, Victor first enrolled at UC Santa Cruz to study agriculture and later transferred to UC Davis to pursue a degree in viticulture. It was after spending a year managing a vineyard that convinced him that he needed to expand his knowledge to understand both grape growing and wine making, prompting him to fulfill the degree requirements in the latter as well. His next fateful decision was to accept a three-year contract to work for Yarden Winery, uprooting himself from Glen Ellen, California to the Golan Heights in Israel.
Arriving in 1991, Victor never expected to stay on beyond his initial contract, but today, 28 years later, he still holds the position of Chief Winemaker and is at the helm of 6-person team, all in pursuit of crafting quality wine. Having joined Yarden early on in its creation (the winery was originally established in 1983), Victor has been blessed with an amazing opportunity to truly grow the winery from the ground up. Currently, Yarden is a leader in the Israeli wine industry, making significant investments in research and development that is shaping its winemaking and that of its neighboring wineries.
When Victor first appeared on the scene, little was known about the region, but in the intervening years, he and his colleagues have come to better understand the climate, soils and the best way to grow grapes in the Golan Heights. As a country, Israel is relatively small, but it has a very diverse climate, which significantly impacts grape growing. As Victor notes, the key is to look to elevation to achieve the necessary cooler climate to maintain good acidity and freshness. Accordingly, whites are grown at 3,000-4,000 feet above sea level and reds can be found at an elevation of 2,000 feet. The soils are a combination of volcanic soils and even older mountain soils.
Now that they appreciate the nuances of their terroir, the emphasis is firmly on achieving even ripeness, which they do by carefully planning where the various vines will be planted. This permits them to get a good expression of varietal character. Once the grapes are ready to be picked, their quality control is further aided through hand harvesting and the use of optical sorting, ensuring that only the very best grapes find their way into the wine.
Other areas of exploration undertaken by the winery have focused on ensuring quality rootstocks and vines. In this regard, Yarden has received ENTAV licensing for their own propagation area, growing vines and wood, with the goal of eradicating the country’s problem with leaf roll virus.
Additionally, they received certification from Lodi Rules Sustainable Winegrowing Program for their practices in the vineyard, the first winery outside of California to receive this recognition and a testament to Yarden’s commitment to the environment. This considerable accomplishment is bolstered by the winery’s use of solar power, recycling programs and development of an organic vineyard.
Overall, the various projects have permitted Victor and his team to use high tech tools to measure and understand how to grow great grapes and make excellent wine, such as their creation of a new way to measure vineyard strength. Consequently, they can react to any issues and make corrections as needed. As they continue to discover more about their land and how to best care for it, Victor notes that they are in the middle of a journey and adds that he is excited about what they are doing and learning.
Looking ahead, it is clear that the winery will continue to produce high quality wines that are both age-worthy and worthy of attention. What Victor’s fate will continue to bring, only time will tell, but for now, he continues to lead his team to good fortune and great wine. And, that, is definitely worth celebrating!
TASTING NOTES
Yarden Katzrin Blanc de Blancs late disgorged 2007, $105.99 This Traditional Method sparkling wine spent 10 years on the lees. Fresh with lively acidity, nice perlage, yeasty, toasty and citrus aromas and flavors, with good length.
Yarden Gewurztraminer 2017, $22.99 A pronounced nose of lychee, tropical fruit, spice and jasmine. Dry on the palate, with just a hint of ripeness, good acidity, slight oily texture, long length.
Yarden Chardonnay Odem Organic Vineyard 2016, $22.99 As Victor notes, “Oak is never the point…” of a wine, “It is a tool.” This wine spent 7 months aged in French oak barrels, with the wood well integrated into the wine. Dry, good acidity, good structure, not too heavy, creamy and round on the palate.
Yarden Katzrin Chardonnay 2017, $38.99 This Chardonnay is a blend of several different vineyards, taken from the most concentrated lots. Fresher than the Odem, but with more overt oak due to the lengthier aging (9 months). Still very youthful and will evolve in the bottle with time. Full bodied, apple, spice, angular, long length.
Yarden Merlot 2014, $30.99 Notes of plum, wood, coffee; dry, with ripe fruit, spice and medium tannins, giving way to long length.
Yarden Merlot Odem Organic Vineyard 2014, $105.99 More herbal in character than the previous Merlot. Spice, wood, plum, ripe, firmer tannins with earthy concentration, culminating in long length.
Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, $35.99 As Yarden’s most awarded wine, this iconic Israeli wine is a diplomat for the winery. Beautifully balanced, with black fruit, good acidity, full bodied, firm ripe tannins, can age 15-20 years.
Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon Bar’on Vineyard 2014, $105.99 Aromas and flavors of black berry, slight spice, herbs, it is ripe and fresh, with long length.
Yarden Katzrin 2011, $212.99 A Bordeaux-style blend, this wine is named for the town in which the winery is located. This vintage is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Merlot; more recent vintages include small percentages of Malbec and Petit Verdot. It has been aged for 24 months in French oak barrels. Brooding, menthol, black fruit, showing slight development, intense and concentrated, ripe, yet elegant, herbal, luscious, ripe tannins, with long length.
Yarden T2 2011, $22.50 This fortified, dessert-style wine is a blend of the Portuguese varieties of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao, which took some time to get established in the vineyard. It is aged for 28 months in French oak barrels. It displays a Port-like nose, with concentrated spice, cocoa and red fruit aromas, medium sweet, but beautifully balanced with bright acidity and long length.
Whether you call it Garnacha or Grenache, this great grape is finally getting the recognition it deserves! Last week, in a very special campaign – the first time that two countries are collaborating in the promotion of wine – a unique dinner featuring the wines of Grenache & Garnacha was held at La Nacional Restaurant. The restaurant is operated under the auspices of the Spanish Benevolent Society, first established in 1868 to “promote, encourage and spread the spirit of fraternity and solidarity among Spanish and Hispanic-American residents of this country.”
Although the society’s role has morphed over the years as the Spanish immigrant population has declined, it still exists in the promotion of Spanish culture. To this end, most recently, they have taken back its space to launch a public restaurant, bringing top chefs from Spain to create authentic Spanish meals. And, it was the perfect setting in which to enjoy these wonderful wines.
Among the oldest grape varieties in the world, Grenache (aka Garnacha) is the second most planted red variety in the world. Within the Garnacha grape family, there are actually four different grapes: red, grey, white and velvet. First grown in the Spanish Kingdom of Aragon, Garnacha thrives in the hot and dry climate, suitable for dry farming. Given its ability to do so well in harsh conditions – it is wind resistant, drought resistant, disease resistent and does well in acidic soils – Garnacha has been hailed as one of the most eco-friendly grapes in the world. Interestingly, with the grape’s sensitivity to soil types, it is often referred to as the Pinot Noir of Spain.
Today, 97% of Garnacha vines are found in just two countries: France and Spain. Between the two countries, the majority of the vineyards are located within the adjacent areas of Calatyud, Campo de Borja, Carinena, Somontano, Terra Alta and Roussillon. Yet despite the relatively compact area, the grapes produce a wide range of styles, showcasing the diversity of the variety. In this regard, Grenache produces: sparkling and still wines; light-bodied and full-bodied whites; roses; light-bodied and full-bodied reds; and fortified sweet wines. Additionally, today, many old vines still exist, creating rich, concentrated wines. Moreover, the focus has shifted away from the use of small, new oak barrels to older and larger oak vessels that impart less overt oak flavor and aromas to the resulting wines.
Over the course of our dinner, we had the great opportunity to sample delicious food paired with five beautifully made Garnacha and Grenache wines, illustrating their pleasure-inducing and food-friendly nature.
TASTING NOTES
Las Moradas de San Martin, Senda 2014, Vinos de Madrid, Spain, $14.00 Under the direction of a female winemaker, Las Moradas de San Martin is working toward receiving organic viticulture status and is home to 190 year old vines. This wine is 100% red Garnacha, with notes of cherry, plum, spice, a slight tannic grip, long length and a slight oxidative note. Paired with a selection of Spanish cheeses.
Domaine Gardies, Clos des Vignes 2015, Cotes du Roussillon, France, $33.00 This 5th generation family estate boasts old vines, including the 75 year old vines grown on chalky soils that produced this wine. It is a blend of 60% white Grenache, 35% grey Grenache and 5% Macabeu and Roussanne, vinified in and then aged in large, old, wood vessels for one year before release. Beautifully complex with aromas of floral, acacia, anisette, fennel, wood and a hint of oxidation, along with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, flavors of citrus, stone in finish, culminating in long length. Ageworthy. Paired with Octopus.
Bodegas San Valero Particular Old Vine 2015 Carinena, Spain, $15.00 Bodeas San Valero is a co-op, which is starting to do some single vineyard wines. The grapes for this wine were grown at 650 meters in altitude, in limestone and chalky soils, that are very stony. These rocks hold heat at night, helping to aid in the vine’s ripening. An intense nose of red fruit, on the palate the wine offers up spice, slight tannic grip, ripe red fruit, wild berries, with long length. 100% Garnacha; aged three months in oak. Paired with Grilled Lamb Chops – a very traditional pairing.
Bodegas Paniza (highest village in the appellation) Vinas Viejas de Paniza Garnarcha 2016, Carinena, Spain, $12.00 Produced from 100% Garnacha, on slate soils and grey schist at a high altitude, this wine spends six months in oak. It is very fresh, with herbal aromas and flavors, dark red and black fruit, good acidity, medium tannins and long length. Paired with Chorizo and Bechamel Croquettes.
Les Vignerons de Constance & Terrassous Hors d’Age 12 Ans, Rivesaltes Ambre, Roussillon, France, $30.00 A fortified dessert wine produced from 40-year-old, white Grenache vines, this wine has a slight oxidative note, with rich and complex flavors of apricot, caramel and spice, joined with good acidity, structure and long length. Paired with Chocolate Mousse and Blood Orange Gelato.
It is a challenge to grow grapes and make wine. Fortunately, the Campanian people are a resilient bunch. They have continually overcome volcanoes, earthquakes and economic hardship. In particular, the word resilience holds significant meaning for Ilaria Petitto, CEO of Donnachiara winery. She heard it numerous times growing up in connection with her family’s metalwork business (the resilience of steel). The term is also apt given the resilience of the local people and, more currently, she is applying it to the potential for Falanghina to become well known and well respected, as Grillo has now become in Sicily. Accordingly, her flagship Falanghina is called Resilienza.
Established in 2005 by Chiara Petitto (Ilara’s mother),
Donnachiara was named for her aunt Chiara Mazzarelli Petitto, who instilled a
love of the land in her and was the inspiration for starting her own winery in
2005. As the Petitto family has been in the region for more than 5 generations,
cultivating vineyards and making wine, this was a natural progression for the
family.
From the very beginning, Donnachiara has been focused on crafting high quality wines from local grapes, which is apropos of a winery situated in Campania on Italy’s Southwestern coast. Despite perhaps being better known for the Amalfi Coast, Neapolitan pizza and Pompeii, Campania stands out as having the most indigenous (local) grape varieties of all of Italy’s wine regions. Grapes such as Fiano, Greco and Aglianico are not only cultivated, but celebrated, taking center stage in the region’s highest denominations.
For Ilaria, it is Falanghina that she wishes to next elevate and believes that the vines grown in Benevento provide the best expression of the grape. This white variety most frequently display citrus, floral and herbal notes, along with medium body and bright acidity, And, while less structured than the more vaunted Greco and Fiano, Ilaria, in collaboration with Donnachiara’s consultant winemaker, Riccardo Cotarella, is confident that it has the potential to create wines of distinction.
Regionally, the majority of vineyards are primarily situated along the interior border of Campania, where the elevation and distance from the coastline keep the climate cool and green. Accordingly, harvest takes place from October through November while winemakers wait for the grapes to reach full ripeness. And, within this area, there are three DOCGs: Fiano d’Avellino, Greco di Tufo and Taurasi that reflect the region’s top wines. It is here that the Donnachiara winery is located, with an average vineyard elevation of 600 meters above sea level.
Although a handful of larger wineries dominate the vinous landscape, most wineries in Campania are small. This preponderance of tiny ventures makes it challenging to find common ground and promote the region as a whole, but with her recent appointment to the Consorzio, Ilaria is hoping to change that in time. As a medium-sized winery (180,000 bottles annually), Donnachiara has some leverage to make its name in the market, but Ilaria recognizes that they will all be more successful if they can promote Campania as a single brand. Thankfully, she has the resilience to persevere!
TASTING NOTES Falanghina 2017, Beneventano Falanghina IGT, Campania, Italy Aromas of pear and lanolin; dry, rich and concentrated, with medium acidity, full body and long length.
Fiano 2017, Fiano di Avellino DOCG, Campania, Italy Bright, fresh, with a slight nuttiness, lovely citrus and minerality, culminating in long length.
Empatia 2017, Fiano d’Avellino DOCG, Campania, Italy This organically produced Fiano was very aromatic and extremely floral, with fresh acidity, stone fruit, wet stone and long length.
Alatheia 2017, Greco di Tufo DOCG, Campania, Italy This was very structural, with citrus and almond notes, medium acidity and long length.
Greco Riserva 2017, Campania, Italy Having spent more time aging before release, this Greco was more concentrated, with yeasty aromas and fuller body. The Greco di Tufo Riserva will soon be approved as an addition to the DOCG.
Resilienza 2016, Beneventano Falanghina IGT, Campania, Italy Showing some development on both the nose and palate, this wine displays minerality, medium acidity, richness, lanolin, white flowers and apricot, with long length.
All of the Donnachiara Taurasi wines are produced in a very elegant style, with resolved tannins and ready to be enjoyed upon release, although they certainly have the potential to age. Taurasi 2015, Taurasi DOCG, Campania, Italy Hailing from the excellent 2015 vintage, this wine offers up floral and black cherry aromas with soft tannins, an earthy undercurrent and long length.
Taurasi 2013, Taurasi DOCG, Campania, Italy The 2013 vintage was a more challenging one, with lots of rain. Yet despite the less than stellar conditions, the wine is lovely with ripe red fruit, good acidity and long length.
Taurasi Riserva 2012, Taurasi Riserva DOCG, Campania, Italy Only made in select years, the Riserva spent 24 months aging in oak. It displayed darker fruit and a more overt oak influence on both the nose and palate. The vintage was great, but warmer than usual.
Like many people in the wine industry, John Terlato, Vice Chairman of Terlato Wines, is passionate about Burgundy. When Terlato Wines initially purchased Sanford Winery and its vineyards in Santa Barbara, California in 2002, John was strongly advised to look to Burgundy for information and inspiration as they embarked on this new Chardonnay and Pinot Noir venture.
He took the advice to heart and traveled to Burgundy in search of great wine. Of course, he was not disappointed, but, equally important, he discovered great people. He returned to the U.S. not only with new knowledge that he was able to impart at Sanford, but also with a circle of new friends.
Over time, these friendships have continued to grow and blossom and it is from this collection of great people that John has now assembled a collection of world-class Burgundy wines, which he is importing under Terlato Wines’ CRU Selections division. The portfolio includes an impressive array of Who’s Who in Burgundy, but John stresses that he wants to work with friends, not all Burgundy producers.
And, such friendships have also resulted in joint projects such as the wine he recently made with Chateau de la Tour at Sanford Winery, bringing together California Pinot Noir, with Burgundian expertise. He enjoyed the project very much and admits that the experience will influence the way he does things going forward, since it is difficult to ignore what you have learned.
Among other things that John has gleaned from his Burgundian friends is the concept that vines can be classified as either introverts or extroverts and, by understanding which vines are which, one can best manage the vines to produce their highest quality. Accordingly, extroverted vines need more attention, while introverted vines should be left alone. He has since adopted this philosophy to other vines, which compliments his focus on making wines of place instead of wines of taste.
John himself is an extrovert, which comes across in his warm, generous approach to life and to people. But, he doesn’t want to interact just for the sake of interacting; in his words, “the ideal dinner party is made up of more than the [three] Graces and less than the [nine] Muses,” giving him the opportunity to have meaningful conversations with a variety of people over the course of a delicious meal and a glass of wine.
Terlato recently hosted a tasting of a subset of the Cru Selections portfolio, including: Domaine Michel Niellon, Chateau de la Tour, Domaine Pierre Label and Domaine Ramonet. It was truly an impressive tasting and an absolute treat to taste some of these very limited wines. And a welcome reminder as to why people are so passionate about Burgundy!
NB: If you would like to get to know John Terlato even better, why not join him on a cruise this December?
TASTING NOTES
Domaine Michel Niellon This fourth-generation family affair is located in Chassagne-Montrachet and produces the full range of wines from the basic Bourgogne appellation to Grand Crus, including Chevalier-Montrachet. The vineyards are managed using sustainable agriculture.
*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Champgains” 2016 Rich, lovely, apple, woody, full bodied, long length.
*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Clos de la Maltroie” 2016 Mineral, wet stone, fresh, mineral, apple, toothpick, very long length.
*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Vergers” 2006 Developing, rich, full body, mineral, caramel, waxy, peach, long length.
Chateau de la Tour Established in 1889 and situated in Vougeot, Chateau de la Tour is presently the largest landowner of the Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru, with a holding of 15 acres. The vines are farmed organically and the wines are aged in custom barrels. The estate’s Clos-Vougeot wines are typically produced from vineyards that average 65 years old, while those under the Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes (old vines) label are made from vines of a minimum of 100 years old.
*Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2015 Intense and concentrated fruit, cherry, herbs, earth, very long length.
*Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2007 Floral, red fruit, earthy and herbal, long length.
Domaine Pierre Labet This domaine dates back to the 15th century with its headquarters built on the battlements surrounding the city of Beaune. The Labet family itself also has a long history in the region, having been in Beaune for 500 years. The family’s holdings include 25 acres spread throughout different appellations, with all of the vineyards farmed organically since 1992.
*Beaune “Clos du Dessus des Marconnets” 2015 Lovely nose, spice, apple, full body, medium acidity, good length.
*Meursault “Les Tillets” 2015 Mineral, green apple, toothpick, nuts, rich and round, long length.
*Beaune “Clos du Dessus des Marconnets” 2015 Ripe, rich, fresh, herbal, cherry, wood, long length.
*Gevry-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2015 Ripe berry, cherry, herbal, earthy, fruit on palate, bright acidity, woody finish, long length.
Domaine Ramonet The Ramonet family settled in Burgundy in the 19th century and it was Pierre Ramonet, grandfather to the current owner, Jean-Claude, who established the (now vaunted) domaine in 1935. While Domaine Ramonet produces both red and white wines, it is most known for its top Chadonnays. Today, Jean-Claud is joined in the business by his daughters Anne-France and Clarisse.
*Puligny-Montrachet 2016 Slight nuttiness, apple, wood, nuts, rich and round, slight buttery note, long length.
*Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Boudriotte” 2016 Woody and apple on the nose, fresh, elegant and rich on the palate with apple, woodiness lingers in finish, long length.
*Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Ruchottes” 2014 Green apple, hint of oak, fresh acidity, full body, VERY long length.
*Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet 2001 Caramel, apple custard, good acidity, full body, caramel, butter, very long length. Wow!
Among Spain’s most vaunted wines, Rioja wines offer up “something for everyone.” And, while that phrase comes straight from the “Rioja 101” brochure I received at a recent Rioja tasting, I believe it to be much more than marketing hype. The wines are produced as white, red, or rosé, covering the full (wine) color spectrum, as well as in a range of styles.
White wines primarily feature local grape varieties such as Viura, Garnacha Blanca and Verdejo, while rosés are generally made from Garnacha or Tempranillo. The red wines may be produced from one or more of the following varieties: Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo. Aside from the differing blends, the wines vary based on length of aging and use (or lack thereof) of wood vessels.
In particular, wines that spend long aging in wood — typically American oak — qualify for specific labeling terms based on the Rioja regulations. Specifically, non-oaked/unaged wines carry no additional terminology on the label. Those wines bearing the designation “Crianza” have been aged for at least three years with one in cask. Reserva wines spend three years aging with one in wood and then an additional six months in bottle. Grand Reserva wines, usually only produced in top vintages, spend a minimum of five years aging with two of those in oak and an additional two in bottle before release. As minimums, winemakers are permitted to exceed these regulations and often do. Whites and rosés follow similar, but shorter, aging regimens within each aging category.
What this means for you, as a consumer, is that you will find a variety of Rioja options depending upon your palate and other preferences. In general, the unoaked wines will be fresher, more fruit forward and potentially more simple, but equally delicious. Conversely, the longer aged wines typically offer oaky/woody notes, often accompanied by notes of vanilla and spice, along with more robust flavor characteristics with firmer tannins and less fruit, but still remain fresh.
More recently, several new zone classifications have been created and now don labels as well. Vino de Zona permits wines that are produced exclusively in one of the three zones (Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental) to designate this on the label. Similarly, wines from a particular village or town (Vino de Municipio) may bear that name if nearly all of the grapes come from that particular area. And finally, Vinedo Singular is a new term used for wines produced from single vineyard that is at least 35 years old and must meet other quality requirements.
At the tasting mentioned above, I had the opportunity to taste among whites, rosés and reds from a variety of different producers and, not surprisingly, found numerous wines to enjoy. In addition to their food friendly versatility, Riojas are also well priced, particularly among older wines and offer good value. So, the next time you are looking for great wine, look no further than Rioja. You’re sure to find something for everyone!
[For additional information on Rioja, please see my previous stories on CVNE, Bodegas Beronia and Vintae.]
Among my favorites of the tasting were: CVNE Monopole Rioja Blanco 2017, Rioja, Spain, $15 – rich, full-bodied and complex with long length.
Muriel Fincas de la Villa Blanco 2017, Rioja, Spain, $15 – fresh, with citrus and pear notes.
Faustino VII Rioja Rosado 2018, Rioja, Spain, $11 – slight floral nose with notes of under-ripe strawberries.
Palacios Remondo La Vendimia Rioja 2016, Rioja, Spain, $16 – beautiful nose, with balanced, ripe fruit and long length.
Bodegas Taron Taron Reserva 2006, Rioja, Spain, $18 – well integrated tannins, herbal and floral notes, with rich concentrated fruit and a slight balsamic character.
Bodegas Olarra, Cerro Anon Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja, Spain, $17 – tart, berries, spice and wood, concentrated, long length.
Bodegas Campillo Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja, Spain, $35 – Produced by the daughter of Faustino, fresh with lots of herbaceous notes, long length.
Faustino Barrel Select Gran Reserva 2001, Rioja, Spain, $50 – beautifully complex nose, spice, fruit, herbs, stunning, long length.
Tuesday morning, I wiped the sleep from my eyes, dressed up as nicely as possible considering the arctic temps and headed downtown to the iPic Theaters on Fulton Street. My plans to watch the Oscar nominations at Piper-Heidsieck’s viewing breakfast were derailed by crazy traffic on the West Side Highway, getting me to the venue over an hour late.
But, all was not lost. Upon my arrival, I was warmly greeted and promptly handed a glass of Piper-Heidsieck to start the day. There are worse ways to wake up!
Despite missing the broadcast, my fellow writers happily filled me in on some of the details and I quickly realized that apparently not much had changed since last year, as I once again had only seen one of the Best Picture nominees. This time, it was Black Panther, the first superhero film to ever be nominated in this category. The movie also scored noms in numerous other categories, including Original Score, Best Song, Costume Design and Production Design. I think we could all use a superhero about now!
Long associated with the movie industry, having first appeared on the scene (and screen) in Laurel and Hardy’s debut film, Sons of the Desert in 1933, Piper-Heidsieck is now in its fifth year of a long-time partnership with the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. Thus, Piper-Heidsieck will be the only Champagne served on February 24 at the awards ceremony and Governors Ball (as well as at related events).
As in previous years, the Champagne house once again designed a limited edition bottle for the occasion. While last year’s bottle was all about the “Golden Age” of Hollywood with an Art Deco design and emphasis on the color green, this newest label brings together two inseparable components of the awards — the red carpet and the golden Oscar statuette — in its red and gold design.
Yet, unlike the statuette, which is solid bronze and only plated in 24-karat gold, Piper-Heidsieck is the real thing — true Champagne. And, whichever movie gets your vote, the award-winning Piper-Heidsieck is the perfect Champagne, with which to toast your favorite film. Lights, camera, cheers!
As the old year draws to a close and the new one lingers on the horizon, the arrival of the Winter Solstice (on or about December 21) brings with it the shortest day – and longest night – of the year. From its Latin roots, we are reminded that on this day, the sun stands still; we can take a moment to reflect and look up at the stars.
Gazing upward, Orion greets us from his perch in this sky. Home to three of the 25 brightest stars, Orion’s gleaming placement among the stars permits him to be seen all over the world, regardless of hemisphere. This winter constellation, named for the myth of Orion, and seen so well amidst the darkness, poetically alludes to the regenerative powers of the sun as Orion’s own eyesight was restored by its healing rays. And, just south of his brilliant belt, Orion’s faithful companion, Sirius, also known as the Dog Star, literally sparkles as brightest star in the sky.
In olden days, this moment in the calendar marked the end of harvest (and all of the hard work it entailed) and signaled instead a time to celebrate. Rome’s festival of Saturnalia took place from December 17 to 25 – those Romans knew how to party!
So, taking a cue from these ancient holidays, now is the perfect time to raise a glass (or two) in celebration of this festive season and all that we have to be thankful for!
Of course, you can toast the holidays with red or white, but why not think pink this season? If you’ve put away your rosé, along with your bathing suits and shorts, it’s time to reconsider your rosé routine. Unfortunately, rosé has become nearly synonymous with the lazy, hazy days of summer and relegated to pool parties and picnics.
But, rosé is much more than that! Yes, rosé is perfect for the hot and humid temperatures of June, July and August, but it is not a pair of white pants and can be drunk after Labor Day. If rosé is here to stay (which it most definitely is), it should stay all year round. In fact, rosé is such a versatile wine that it should be a welcome addition to the table any time of year.
So, it was a pleasure to receive a quartet of rosés from Provence, which itself is nearly synonymous with rosé, to mark this year’s holidays and share with friends at a Solstice celebration. As 2019 looms large and, with it, the sparkle of a brand-new year, fresh with promise, the bright, fresh flavors of rosé, along with their warm pink hues, provide a nice respite from the gloomy grey skies of winter!
TASTING NOTES Château Coussin La Croix du Prieur Rosé 2017, Côtes de Provence, France, $14.00 Primarily produced from Grenache, this wine presents intense notes of strawberry, spice, perfume and floral.
Château Henri Bonnaud Terre Promise Rosé, 2017, Côtes de Provence, France, $15.00 Comprised of half Grenache and half Syrah, this wine greets the nose with lovely cherry and berry aromas that persist on the medium-bodied palate, along with a hint of floral.
Château Leoube Le Secret de Leoube Rosé 2017, Côtes de Provence, France, $40.00 Bringing together Grenache, Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine presents delicate floral aromas with beautiful minerality on the bright and refreshing palate, culminating in long length.
Mirabeau en Provence Pure Rosé2017, Côtes de Provence, France, $20.00 A blend of Grenache and Syrah, this wine offers up aromas of strawberry, citrus and musk on the nose, which give way to more peachy notes on the medium-bodied palate with long length.
Born, raised and educated in Burgundy, Thibaut Delmotte launched his wine career doing three harvests each in Burgundy and Bordeaux before taking a year off to travel throughout South America. He booked an open ticket, headed to Buenos Aires and visited Argentina, Chile and Brazil, eventually finding himself somewhat settled in Salta teaching French at the local Alliance Française.
When a new acquaintance discovered his background as a winemaker she told him about a high elevation vineyard north of the city. He didn’t believe it was possible to grow vines at such an altitude but was intrigued enough to secure an appointment with the man behind the project: Donald Hess.
Thibaut and Donald arranged to meet at the property at 9:00 AM, which required Thibault to depart Salta at 5:00 AM. By 6:00 AM, the pavement gave way to gravel as he snaked his way up the mountain. By 9:00 AM, there was no sign of life and he was beginning to think that he had been punked. Soon he came to a small village and was assured that he was close to his destination. Another 40 minutes of driving brought him face to face with the tall, Swiss gentleman who promptly laughed at seeing the small, compact rental car in which Thibault had made the journey.
Still disbelieving, Thibaut permitted Donald to give him a tour of the mountainous property, which was barren desert – more suited to cacti than Cabernet. Then, he saw the eight hectares of pre-phylloxera vines and was duly impressed.
Hess spoke about his grand plans for multiple vineyards and a large capacity winery. Thibaut was excited about the opportunity, but readily admitted to his lack of experience to take on such a project. Undeterred, Donald continued with the tour and invited Thibaut to lunch that afternoon. But, before the meal, he was to take part in a blind tasting during which he was asked to taste and rank 10 wines in order of his preference. It was the ultimate job interview! When Thibaut’s least favorite wine was revealed to be the Colome Malbec Reserva he was certain he had blown his chance, but Donald appreciated his feedback as to why the French-born and bred winemaker didn’t find the overt/powerful wine to his liking. Hess offered him the job on the condition that he commit to the post for at least three years. That was fifteen years ago.
In the early years, the emphasis was on building the new winery, developing the vineyards and, equally important, investing in the local village to upgrade its infrastructure, increase its access to education and solve social ills such as alcoholism and teen pregnancy. It was also necessary to create own electricity
Despite its initial rusticity, the Colome property itself dates to 1831, when it was established by the Isasmendi-Dávalos family. It remained in the Dávalos family until 2001, when Hess was finally able to purchase the property. Hess himself was first acquainted with Colome and its potential while visiting his great aunt in Buenos Aires several years prior and had the opportunity to taste an old bottle of its wine.
In addition to the state-of-the-art winery, Colome’s estate is home to the James Turrell Museum. Turrell is a California-based, light and space artist, whose experiential installations defy explanation. To get a better sense of his art, please see: http://www.bodegacolome.com/museo/?lang=en The winery attracts 8,000 visitors each year who usually spend half a day tasting wine and visiting the museum. A nine-room hotel is also available on the estate for those who wish to stay over.
More recently, the focus has been on two special projects: Autentico and Altura Maxima (maximum height). The Autentico project relies on doing things the “old way.” In this regard, the best blocks of 100 year+ vines are still trained using the pergola system, watered with flood (instead of drip) irrigation, treated without chemicals and generally approached with a low intervention philosophy. This approach continues in the winery, where the use of oak is eschewed in favor of showing the true (authentic) wine in the glass, uncovered by wood aromas and flavors.
At a height of 3,111 meters (10,200 feet) in altitude, Altura Maxima is the highest vineyard in the world (although a recently planted plot in Tibet threatens to take this title away). It was initially planted in 2007 to Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as Malbec. Given the elevation, the vines receive more ultraviolet light, forcing them to develop thicker skins on the grapes. This ultimately produces wines with more structure and concentration, while the 25 degree diurnal difference ensures that the wines retain high levels of acidity and elegance. All of this comes at a price; the very extreme conditions mean that wasps, donkeys and frost are all threats to the fruit. Thus, the vineyard only yields a small production of grapes (4 kilos per hectare compared to 7 kilos per hectare).
TASTING NOTES Colome Autentico 2017, Salta, Argentina, $on-premise only
This 100% Malbec is deep purple in color with intense aromas of wood, plum, black fruit. The dry palate displays very ripe blackberry and blueberry joined by floral and spice, with firm, ripe tannins, full body and medium+ length. It is released young, but can age five to seven years.
Colome Altura Maxima 2014, Salta, Argentina, $125.00
Also 100% Malbec, this wine spends 23 months in old oak and one year in bottle before release. It is a very floral Malbec with fine grained tannins.
Born, raised and educated in Burgundy, Thibaut Delmotte launched his wine career doing three harvests each in Burgundy and Bordeaux before taking a year off to travel throughout South America. He booked an open ticket, headed to Buenos Aires and visited Argentina, Chile and Brazil, eventually finding himself somewhat settled in Salta teaching French at the local Alliance Française.
Colome Autentico 2017, Salta, Argentina, $on-premise only