‘Tis the Season to Think… Pink

As the old year draws to a close and the new one lingers on the horizon, the arrival of the Winter Solstice (on or about December 21) brings with it the shortest day – and longest night – of the year. From its Latin roots, we are reminded that on this day, the sun stands still; we can take a moment to reflect and look up at the stars.

Gazing upward, Orion greets us from his perch in this sky. Home to three of the 25 brightest stars, Orion’s gleaming placement among the stars permits him to be seen all over the world, regardless of hemisphere. This winter constellation, named for the myth of Orion, and seen so well amidst the darkness, poetically alludes to the regenerative powers of the sun as Orion’s own eyesight was restored by its healing rays. And, just south of his brilliant belt, Orion’s faithful companion, Sirius, also known as the Dog Star, literally sparkles as brightest star in the sky.

In olden days, this moment in the calendar marked the end of harvest (and all of the hard work it entailed) and signaled instead a time to celebrate. Rome’s festival of Saturnalia took place from December 17 to 25 – those Romans knew how to party!

So, taking a cue from these ancient holidays, now is the perfect time to raise a glass (or two) in celebration of this festive season and all that we have to be thankful for!

Of course, you can toast the holidays with red or white, but why not think pink this season? If you’ve put away your rosé, along with your bathing suits and shorts, it’s time to reconsider your rosé routine. Unfortunately, rosé has become nearly synonymous with the lazy, hazy days of summer and relegated to pool parties and picnics.

But, rosé is much more than that! Yes, rosé is perfect for the hot and humid temperatures of June, July and August, but it is not a pair of white pants and can be drunk after Labor Day. If rosé is here to stay (which it most definitely is), it should stay all year round. In fact, rosé is such a versatile wine that it should be a welcome addition to the table any time of year.

So, it was a pleasure to receive a quartet of rosés from Provence, which itself is nearly synonymous with rosé, to mark this year’s holidays and share with friends  at a Solstice celebration. As 2019 looms large and, with it, the sparkle of a brand-new year, fresh with promise, the bright, fresh flavors of rosé, along with their warm pink hues, provide a nice respite from the gloomy grey skies of winter!

TASTING NOTES
Château Coussin  La Croix du Prieur Rosé 2017, Côtes de Provence, France, $14.00
Primarily produced from Grenache, this wine presents intense notes of strawberry, spice, perfume and floral.

Château Henri Bonnaud Terre Promise Rosé, 2017, Côtes de Provence, France, $15.00
Comprised of half Grenache and half Syrah, this wine greets the nose with lovely cherry and berry aromas that persist on the medium-bodied palate, along with a hint of floral.

Château Leoube Le Secret de Leoube Ros
é 2017, Côtes de Provence, France, $40.00
Bringing together Grenache, Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine presents delicate floral aromas with beautiful minerality on the bright and refreshing palate, culminating in long length.

Mirabeau en Provence Pure Rosé 2017, Côtes de Provence, France, $20.00
A blend of Grenache and Syrah, this wine offers up aromas of strawberry, citrus and musk on the nose, which give way to more peachy notes on the medium-bodied palate with long length.

Colome’s winemaker is living the impossible dream

Born, raised and educated in Burgundy, Thibaut Delmotte launched his wine career doing three harvests each in Burgundy and Bordeaux before taking a year off to travel throughout South America. He booked an open ticket, headed to Buenos Aires and visited Argentina, Chile and Brazil, eventually finding himself somewhat settled in Salta teaching French at the local Alliance Française.

When a new acquaintance discovered his background as a winemaker she told him about a high elevation vineyard north of the city. He didn’t believe it was possible to grow vines at such an altitude but was intrigued enough to secure an appointment with the man behind the project: Donald Hess.

Thibaut and Donald arranged to meet at the property at 9:00 AM, which required Thibault to depart Salta at 5:00 AM. By 6:00 AM, the pavement gave way to gravel as he snaked his way up the mountain. By 9:00 AM, there was no sign of life and he was beginning to think that he had been punked. Soon he came to a small village and was assured that he was close to his destination. Another 40 minutes of driving brought him face to face with the tall, Swiss gentleman who promptly laughed at seeing the small, compact rental car in which Thibault had made the journey.

Still disbelieving, Thibaut permitted Donald to give him a tour of the mountainous property, which was barren desert – more suited to cacti than Cabernet. Then, he saw the eight hectares of pre-phylloxera vines and was duly impressed.

Hess spoke about his grand plans for multiple vineyards and a large capacity winery. Thibaut was excited about the opportunity, but readily admitted to his lack of experience to take on such a project. Undeterred, Donald continued with the tour and invited Thibaut to lunch that afternoon. But, before the meal, he was to take part in a blind tasting during which he was asked to taste and rank 10 wines in order of his preference. It was the ultimate job interview! When Thibaut’s least favorite wine was revealed to be the Colome Malbec Reserva he was certain he had blown his chance, but Donald appreciated his feedback as to why the French-born and bred winemaker didn’t find the overt/powerful wine to his liking. Hess offered him the job on the condition that he commit to the post for at least three years. That was fifteen years ago.

In the early years, the emphasis was on building the new winery, developing the vineyards and, equally important, investing in the local village to upgrade its infrastructure, increase its access to education and solve social ills such as alcoholism and teen pregnancy. It was also necessary to create own electricity

Despite its initial rusticity, the Colome property itself dates to 1831, when it was established by the Isasmendi-Dávalos family. It remained in the Dávalos family until 2001, when Hess was finally able to purchase the property. Hess himself was first acquainted with Colome and its potential while visiting his great aunt in Buenos Aires several years prior and had the opportunity to taste an old bottle of its wine.

In addition to the state-of-the-art winery, Colome’s estate is home to the James Turrell Museum. Turrell is a California-based, light and space artist, whose experiential installations defy explanation. To get a better sense of his art, please see: http://www.bodegacolome.com/museo/?lang=en  The winery attracts 8,000 visitors each year who usually spend half a day tasting wine and visiting the museum. A nine-room hotel is also available on the estate for those who wish to stay over.

More recently, the focus has been on two special projects: Autentico and Altura Maxima (maximum height). The Autentico project relies on doing things the “old way.” In this regard, the best blocks of 100 year+ vines are still trained using the pergola system, watered with flood (instead of drip) irrigation, treated without chemicals and generally approached with a low intervention philosophy. This approach continues in the winery, where the use of oak is eschewed in favor of showing the true (authentic) wine in the glass, uncovered by wood aromas and flavors.

At a height of 3,111 meters (10,200 feet) in altitude, Altura Maxima is the highest vineyard in the world (although a recently planted plot in Tibet threatens to take this title away). It was initially planted in 2007 to Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as Malbec. Given the elevation, the vines receive more ultraviolet light, forcing them to develop thicker skins on the grapes. This ultimately produces wines with more structure and concentration, while the 25 degree diurnal difference ensures that the wines retain high levels of acidity and elegance. All of this comes at a price; the very extreme conditions mean that wasps, donkeys and frost are all threats to the fruit. Thus, the vineyard only yields a small production of grapes (4 kilos per hectare compared to 7 kilos per hectare).

TASTING NOTES
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is IMG_20181118_191526_076-1024x1024.jpgColome Autentico 2017, Salta, Argentina, $on-premise only
This 100% Malbec is deep purple in color with intense aromas of wood, plum, black fruit. The dry palate displays very ripe blackberry and blueberry joined by floral and spice, with firm, ripe tannins, full body and medium+ length. It is released young, but can age five to seven years.

Colome Altura Maxima 2014, Salta, Argentina, $125.00
Also 100% Malbec, this wine spends 23 months in old oak and one year in bottle before release. It is a very floral Malbec with fine grained tannins.

All I want for Christmas: Things that sparkle

Regardless of which winter holidays you do or don’t celebrate, who doesn’t want to be on the receiving end of presents? So, with that in mind, I am starting a list just in case anyone wants to know what to get me. Next up, all that glitters!

One of the things I always say is that everything is better that sparkles. This is true of water, wine, diamonds and personalities!

So, you can be sure that I had to have one of these Goldish aura-activated sparkling body chains when I first saw them in the Journelle email that featured them… until I saw the price (but that’s why they make such a perfect gift).

 

 

 

Also not in the budget, but definitely on the Desire List are almost any of Christian Louboutin‘s embellished pumps collection as seen in an email from Nordstrom, although the one pictured is my favorite of the lot. Oh well, a girl can dream.

 

Thankfully, the Gaudi-inspired, beautifully-packaged,  duo of Cavas from Vilarnau is an affordable option to imbue your holidays with glitz and glamour. Named for the Arnau family’s castle that stood on the banks of the Anoia River, the Vilarnau property, situated just outside Barcelona, evokes a magical scene right out of a fairy tale. Available in a classic Brut Reserva (SRP $14.99) and a Brut Reserva Rosé (SRP $15.99), these sparkling wines will be a welcome addition to any celebration.

And you’ll still have money left over to gift me a pair of shoes!

All I Want for Christmas: Marta Scarampi dresses

Regardless of which winter holidays you do or don’t celebrate, who doesn’t want to be on the receiving end of presents? So, with that in mind, I am starting a list just in case anyone wants to know what to get me. Next up, a fabulous dress from Marta Scarampi!

Thanks to a holiday invite from my friend Susannah Gold of Vigneto Communications, I had the pleasure of meeting the Torino-based designer and browsing her wares while sipping wines from Lugana, a unique DOC that spans two Italian regions – Lombardia and the Veneto. Here, the white grape variety Turbiana, which is closely related to Trebbiano di Soave, reigns supreme, finding its way into a wide range of wine styles from still to sparkling and from dry to sweet. [NB: I previously wrote about Lugana’s wines last year.]

 

Italian native Marta Scarampi studied at FIT before returning home to launch her fashion line. Her line features a selection of capes and her travel and business collection – dresses and jackets that easily go from the boardroom to the boarding queue.

These capes are much better to keep a super woman warm on a cold day and can be customized with faux fur collars, rainproof hoods and are available in a range of fabrics and styles. They looked uber chic and sophisticated on my friend, Lisa, who tried on several different options.

Always and forever the dress girl, I was smitten by two styles in Marta’s collection. The first was her Lucca stretch dress (pictured left), while the other was a more celebratory number with metallic threads, worthy of the holiday season. Like the capes, the dress styles can also be made-to-order with the client’s preferred fabric choice.

All I Want for Christmas: Papapietro Perry Pinot

Regardless of which winter holidays you do or don’t celebrate, who doesn’t want to be on the receiving end of presents? So, with that in mind, I am starting a list just in case anyone wants to know what to get me. First up, Pinot Noir from Papapietro Perry!

I first became acquainted with Papapietro Perry Winery back in 2008 when I compiled a lengthy list of Sonoma County producers to potentially visit for our upcoming trip. We would be in Sonoma for an extended weekend (Thursday through Tuesday), first to attend the very first Wine Bloggers’ Conference and then to enjoy a few days tasting and touring throughout the county.

We had arranged to meet our San Francisco-based friends, Peter and Nicole, for the day and set off in pursuit of Pinot. With our focus on Healdsburg, that day included visits to Ridge, Seghesio and Papapietro Perry. Well-known and respected for their Pinot and Zinfandel, Papapietro Perry had ended up on the list thanks to the favorable reviews they garnered in Wine Spectator magazine (and continue to receive in that and in other publications).

The winemakers behind the label are Bruce Perry and Ben Papapietro. With their mutual love of food and wine, the two friends began making wine together in a shared pursuit of Pinot Noir. Starting in Ben’s San Francisco garage back in 1980s, their homemade attempts turned out to be quite good, eventually permitting them to quit their “day jobs” to pursue wine full-time. And, keeping it all in the family, they are joined by their wives, Renae Perry (who is responsible for winery operations) and Yolanda Papapietro (who handles distribution).

During our 2008 visit, I was very impressed with the wines, tasting two Pinots (Charles Vineyard ~ Anderson Valley and Leras Family Vineyards ~ Russian River Valley) and two Zins (both from the Russian River Valley). So, it was a pleasure to reacquaint myself with Papapietro Perry wine again more recently. Trust me, if someone gifts you their wines, you will not be unhappy!

TASTING NOTE
Papapietro Perry Pinot Noir Nunes Vineyard 2016 Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $60.00
This 100% Pinot Noir wine spent 11 months in French oak, 50% of which was new and 50% of which was 1 and 2 years old. Pale garnet with a paler rim, typical of Pinot Noir, this wine offered up spice, earth and cherry aromas. It was dry, with bright acidity, fresh cherries and raspberries, spice, a slight woody note, and an undercurrent of earthiness on the medium-bodied palate, culminating in very long length. A truly beautiful wine.

 

You Can Go Home Again: A Visit to Macari Vineyards

They say you can’t go home again, but our visits to the North Fork of Long Island, post-real estate sale, continue to make us feel welcome.  And nowhere was that more apparent than at our former next door neighbor, Macari Vineyards.

Living next door to a winery is great! As I liked to joke when we visited the tasting room with house guests – it was stagger distance. But, all kidding aside, they truly were great neighbors. From the very beginning, the Macari’s were helpful, kind, warm and generous. While most people consider borrowing a cup of sugar from their neighbors in a pinch, we borrowed their winemaking expertise in the form of a chemical analysis of the wine that my husband made with two friends from Macari fruit. Plus, they produce amazing wine, currently under the direction of winemaker Kelly Urbanik Koch.

So, when my husband’s employer decided to do an event on the North Fork, we knew that Macari would figure prominently on the agenda. Upon arrival, the assembled guests (a group of employees, management and advisory board members) were provided with a tour of the winery, followed by a guided tasting with Alexandra Macari in their beautiful, Private Barrel Cellar. Afterward, we enjoyed dinner on the deck, accompanied by an assortment of Macari wines.

All in all, it was a wonderful visit and we definitely felt at home!

TASTING NOTES

Macari Sparkling Pinot Noir Gabriella 2012, $35.00
Named in honor of Alexandra and Joe’s daughter – and an integral part of the Macari team – Gabriela, this effervescent wine offered up aromas of cotton candy, cherries and yeastiness. On the palate, it is dry with medium+ acidity, ripe berries, cream and melon.


Macari Sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon “Horses” (2015 or 2016), $N/A

Unfiltered and cloudy wine due to the minimal intervention used to produce this non-disgorged sparkler, it is named for a vineyard area called horse head bluff because well, it looks like a horse’s head. Pale salmon in color, the wine is slightly off-dry, with slight cherry fruit, strawberry cream and toasted marshmallow on the cleansing palate. It is currently sold out; make sure to catch it next time around.

Macari Sauvignon Blanc “Katherine’s Field” 2016, $24.00
Fermented in 100% stainless steel, this wine displays notes of slight smoke, citrus, and tropical fruit, which persisted on the clean, fresh palate, with a slight spritz and long length.

Macari Sauvignon Blanc Lifeforce (2016), $28.00
In contrast to the Katherine’s Field Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is fermented in concrete egg-shaped tanks yielding an edgier, more structural wine with angularity, heaviness and a fuller body, along with intense acidity (whereas the other SB is softer and rounder).

Macari Chardonnay Reserve 2014, $27.00

This full-bodied white was barrel fermented in two- and three-year old French oak, resulting in aromas and flavors of toothpick, apple and spice, along with medium+ acidity.

Macari Bergen Road 2013, $50.00
This Bordeaux-style wine leads with 51% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Aromas of black cherry, oak, balsamic vinegar, give way to flavors of herbs, earth, oak and spice on the dry, full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.

Macari Alexandra 2010, $85.00
A flagship red blend made only in top vintages, it is primarily produced with Merlot. Compared to the Bergen Road, it presents with darker fruit, smoke, vanilla as well as beautiful dried fruit, dried herbs and resolved tannins on the full-bodied, lush, palate. Only 200 cases were made.

Thanksgiving with an Indian accent

The first time I hosted Thanksgiving, it was actually the day AFTER Thanksgiving. So, we decided to spice things up a bit by re-imagining the traditional holiday meal, southwestern style. Accordingly, we served up turkey fajitas, salsa and chips, cornbread stuffing and pumpkin flan. It was perfect and well received.

Now that my parents are retired and living in Florida, my husband’s and my new tradition is making reservations at a nice restaurant that offers up some version of the customary menu (it is the only time of the year that I eat turkey), but not too traditional or limited since hubby could care less about the traditional fare.

In a similar twist to that first Thanksgiving dinner, this year we were enticed by the prix fixe menu presented by Indian Accent, which offered up a multi-course meal featuring the usual suspects, but, (pardon the pun) with an Indian accent (see menu below). The restaurant has three locations: New York, New Delhi and London and prides itself on reinterpreting traditional Indian cuisine.

A friend had mentioned that the restaurant’s cocktails were outstanding (they were), but we were even more pleased with the jewel of a wine list curated by sommelier, Edwin J. Davila. Both wide ranging and eclectic, there were a significant number of delicious options under $100 and many under $75, which was wonderful. With Edwin’s guidance, we ordered the Sybille Kuntz Riesling Spatlese Trocken 2011 (Mosel, Germany), which was absolutely perfect with our dinner. Edwin noted that with the diversity of flavors and textures on the menu and no obvious geographic constraints (i.e. Italian fare with Italian wines), he was able to be very creative with his list. He also likes to make unusual marriages as evidenced by the vermouth he deliciously paired with the bacon kulcha.

INDIAN ACCENT THANKSGIVING MENU sesame chili sweet potato
sweet pickle ribs, sundried mango, onion seeds
mathri: duck khurchan or smoked eggplant bharta

***

roast turkey pinwheels, sage, paneer, chili tomato glaze
or
paneer and sage kofta, chili tomato glaze

served with
cumin maple Brussels sprout
tandoori cauliflower, spicy almond
kadhai potato, truffle cream
pumpkin and cranberry kulcha, sage butter
bacon kulcha, rosemary butter
christmas ham basmati pulao/ wild mushroom pulao

* * *

doda barfi treacle tart, vanilla bean ice cream
saffron pear petha, rice kheer, pecan candy

Keeping up with Italian Wines

With its wealth of wines and wine regions, there is a lot to know about Italian wine! Plus, Italy seems to be in a constant state of flux with regard to rules and regulations as it continually seeks to improve the quality of its production. In October, I attended the Simply Italian Great Wines U.S. Tour 2018, organized by IEEM USA, to get the scoop on a new DOC as well as update my knowledge on Lambrusco. Similarly, some recent press releases have also kept me up-to-date on changes in Piedmont.

 

65 Shades of Grey
At the Simply Italian event, attendees had the opportunity to taste through 65 shades of grey (or more correctly in Italian, grigio). All of the wines were produced from the Pinot Grigio grape variety and were part of the new DOC delle Venezie.  This new denomination was established in 2017, implementing new rules such as lower yields, and elevating Pinot Grigio from IGP status.

One of the largest production areas in all of Europe, the DOC comprises 30,000 hectares spread over three regions. The DOC delle Venezie bills itself as “Italian style Pinot Grigio,” but there is still plenty of room for diversity with wines at the event ranging from still to sparking and one with a hint of color from brief skin contact. Although I tasted through quite a few of the wines on offer, I wisely did not attempt to try all 65. Of the ones I tasted, my favorites included those from Tomassi, Perlage, SalvaTerra and Tre.

The (Un)usual Suspects

Whereas Pinot Grigio is quite well-known in the U.S., Lambrusco is less ubiquitous, but definitely worth knowing about. In a session titled, “Lambrusco D.O.C. & Sangiovese D.O.C.: The Cultural Heritage of the Territory,” Professor Giammario Villa explained that the Emilia Romagna region’s main cultural focus is food, as evidenced by talk about dinner as early as breakfast. This emphasis is likely a result of the Via Emilia Road built by the Roman consults in 187 BCE, which created the hubs of Reggio, Parma, Bologna, all of which are synonymous with food. Vinously, the region has numerous geological differences that have influenced the local wine legislation. The Professor also noted that the region is marked by a preponderance of cooperatives (responsible for 75% of the wines produced), which has kept wine prices relatively inexpensive.

With regard to Lambrusco itself, there are 6 DOCs: Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa and Reggiano within Reggio Emilia and four more in Modena. Wine produced in the more flexible designation of Lambrusco di Modena has been made as early as the middle of the 10th century and currently permits higher yields than the more specific Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce and Lambrusco di Sorbara.

While there are stylistic differences among the various DOCs, in general, Lambrusco is produced via the Charmat Method and the resulting wines typically display high acidity, at least some effervescence, low alcohol and fruity and floral aromas. However, they are more varied with regard to tannins and body/structure.

Coming from the northern part of the region, the wines of Lambrusco di Sorbara are usually quite light in color, while those from Reggiano are deep in color with a lively foam. Located in the central part of the region, with vines grown at a higher altitude, the wines of Lambrusco Grasparosa di Castelvetro hail from the clay soils and hilly slopes and offer up earthy, spicy notes along with more tannin and structure.

Tasting through a selection of these wines, I was reminded just how much I enjoy Lambrusco and wondered why I don’t remember to drink them more often. My tasting notes are included below.

Updates in Piedmont
Within Piedmont, perhaps best-known for Barbaresco and Barolo, attention has been turned to its Barbera variety. Specifically, the Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini del Monferrato has partnered with the Università di Torino – Disafa to conduct a scientific study to create a sensory map of the Barbera d’Asti DOCG appellation. Called Barbera d’Asti 2.0, the focus of this study is to better understand the influence of geological and climatic conditions and how these growing conditions relate to the wine profiles of the wines produced in each area. The study took a year to complete and the results (aka the map) have just been published.

Shining light on another grape variety, the same Consorzio has also received approval to modify the specifications of the Monferrato DOC, which has now been expanded to include two additional DOCs: Monferrato Nebbiolo and Monferrato Nebbiolo Superiore. The new denomination will take effect with the 2019 harvest, with the first wines released into the market in 2020, after the requisite aging periods (12 and 18 months, respectively). The main impetus for this change was to permit producers to include the grape variety on the label. Given that the Monferrato designation by itself has limited consumer recognition, this should give the participating wineries a better opportunity to market their wines.

TASTING NOTES
Cleto Chiarli ‘Vecchia Modena’ Lambrusco NV
Aromas of strawberry greeted the nose. On the palate it was very tart and fresh with underripe strawberry flavors and and long length.

For.Mo.Sa Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOP NV
With deeper, darker red fruits, bright acidity, this was relatively full bodied with good length.

Ca’ Montanari ‘Opera 02’ Lambrusco di Modena DOP NV
Displaying a cocoa note as well as red fruit on nose, this wine was fuller in body, offering up darker fruits and good acidity.

Lombardini ‘Il Signore Campanone’ Lambrusco Reggiano DOP NV
A shier nose with less fruity aromas, this wine was earthy with slight cherry notes on the palate.

 

 

Table set, match: A meeting of the food and wine minds of Janssens and Kornack

Two trailblazing women joined forces last week for a one-of-a-kind dinner featuring the incredible wines of Robert Mondavi Winery (produced under the direction of Chief Winemaker Genevieve Janssens) and the exquisite food of Chef Elise Kornack. Both women have distinguished themselves in their respective fields, earning well deserved and well-earned accolades and awards.

 

 

 

Marrying their individual expertise, Genevieve and Elise collaborated on an amazing menu that paired harmoniously with the wines. In speaking about the partnership, Elise explained that it had been a wonderful opportunity “to partner with someone who loves what she does as much as I do,” and noted that the experience working together had been quite fun, providing her with a different perspective as she considered the food in context with the wines.

Originally from France, Genevieve was born into a viticultural family and studied with many luminous wine professionals including Emile Peymaud, eventually earning a Diploma of Enology at the University of Bordeaux. News about the exciting things going on in the Napa Valley and, in particular, at Robert Mondavi Winery, inspired her to arrive on Mondavi’s doorstep in 1978. She was promptly hired as a lab technician by his Chief Enologist, Zelma Long, another pioneering woman in the industry. Although that initial post lasted only a year, Genevieve returned to work closely with Mondavi for several decades, including a ten-year stint at Opus One Winery, a joint venture between Mondavi and the Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Château Mouton Rothschild. During that time, she rose to the rank of Chief Winemaker for Robert Mondavi Winery. Among her numerous honors, Genevieve was named Wine Enthusiast‘s  2010 Winemaker of the Year and was recognized by the French government as an “Officier” of the The Ordre National du Mérite Agricole.

In keeping with Mondavi’s emphasis on food and wine pairing, the winery recently partnered with the James Beard Foundation to create a five-year scholarship for the advancement of wine education in the U.S. Accordingly, as a thrice nominated James Beard “Rising Star Chef,” it was especially fitting for Elise to have been chosen as Chef for the dinner event. Previously, Elise created the Michelin-starred restaurant Take Root in Brooklyn, which she ran from 2013-2017. Recognized as one of Conde Nast’s “10 Young Chefs to Watch,” among her lengthy list of superlatives; last year, Elise and her wife moved to the Catskills region in upstate New York, where she is at work on a new restaurant in Phoenicia. (As a part-time resident of Saugerties, NY, I am eagerly anticipating its opening.)

As she spoke about her approach to food, Elise shared her preference for humble ingredients, varied textures, earthy flavors and notes of nostalgia, as we head into the fall and winter seasons. But, while her palate colors and flavors might be “humble,” – starring such vegetables as rutabaga, celery and turnips – she elevates them to high art on the plate.

The meal opened with a dish comprised of celery, turnip and pear with ginger, almond and sheep’s milk cheese, served alongside the 2016 Robert Mondavi Winery Chardonnay Reserve, Carneros, CA, Napa Valley. The crunchy texture of the vegetables balanced well with the creaminess of the cheese, while the acidity of the wine provided a lovely counterpoint, along with the interplay of the slight woody notes of the wine with the ginger and almond on the plate.

The second course featured beluga lentils and wild mushrooms with cranberry, coffee and truffle, presented with the 2015 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Franc, Oakville, Napa Valley and 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa Valley. I especially enjoyed the herbaceous character of the Cabernet Franc with the rich, earthy flavors of the mushrooms and truffles as well as the echoed notes of fruitiness between the wine and cranberry.

The third plate brought together New York strip, rutabaga and a sauce of smoked corn, peppercorn and mustard seed, paired with a duo of Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignons: 2015 The Reserve To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville, Napa Valley and 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Napa Valley. Genevieve explained that 2015 had been a drought year, yielding highly concentrated wines, with firm tannins, yet a softness as well. In this regard, the wine was a perfect example of Mondavi’s philosophy to, “Make Cabernet Sauvignon as soft as a baby’s bottom and powerful as Pavarotti.” While both wines were absolutely beautiful, I favored the 2008 for its development and tertiary aromas, though still quite fresh at ten years old.

Noting that she was a big fan of cream pies, the meal concluded with Elise’s riff on one that included apple and fig leaf with seeds, tumeric and honey, served with the 2017 Robert Mondavi Winery Moscato d’Oro, Napa Valley. The pie was creamy, yet light, and was well matched with the acidity and sweetness of the dessert wine.

During the reception, we had the opportunity to taste the Fumé Blanc (aka Sauvignon Blanc) Reserve 2016 To Kalon Vineyard, Napa Valley. This wine, along with the 2015 Cab Sav we tasted, hail from the famed To Kalon vineyard, which is Greek for beautiful. First planted (and named) in the late 1800s by Hamilton Walker Crabb, an early Napa pioneer, the vineyard was initially re-established by Mondavi on a 12-acre site. Today, the historic property, known for its optimum conditions, now comprises 550 acres, with 435 under Mondavi’s ownership.

As the evening winded down, it was clear that the food and wine had been impeccable, made more so not only by the intentional collaboration between Genevieve and Elise, but also by the collegial atmosphere in which they had been served; an experience that will not be easily matched.