Tag Archives: Argentina

Where everyday is Earth Day…Domaine Bousquet and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

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Earth Day has come and gone, but while the holiday is a reminder that we must protect and cherish our planet, a single day is obviously not enough to do so. To a very real and certain extent, EVERY day should be Earth Day!

Although we can find fault with many industries and organizations, within the world of wine, there are a number of important and impressive examples of wine regions and individual wineries who are making the investment and having an impact with their actions.

In particular, Domaine Bousquet stands as a beacon, having been organic from the “get go”. Along these lines, winery owner, Anne Bouquet refers to herself as an “Organic Revolutionary” and an “International Citizen”, both of which are well deserved and apt descriptors of her commitment to sustainability in all that they do. She is joined by lead winemaker, Rodrigo Serrano, in their quest to lead the region in organic viticulture and sustainability efforts. This “teacher’s soul” has been at the winery for the past five years, and is truly passionate about details in achieving these overarching goals.

The winery has been Certified Organic for over 25 years and has also been certified by Demeter and Biodyvin for its conversion to biodynamic viticulture. They have recently added ROC (regenerative organic certification) certification to their list of organic certifications and are 360 sustainable.

Equally telling, as of this year (2023), they are now a certified B Corp organization. “B Corp Certification is a designation that a business is meeting high standards of verified performance, accountability, and transparency on factors from employee benefits and charitable giving to supply chain practices and input materials.” (From B Lab) Some of their wines also are certified as organic Kosher, Vegan and Gluten-free.

Yet, they are not content to rest on their laurels; future endeavors seek to reduce their CO2 and H2O footprints, especially as there is less snow in the mountains due to climate change.

The winery is also expanding its focus to address other issues such as making low calorie wine, low alcohol wine and organic wine (as opposed to making wine with organic grapes, but with conventional winemaking). In this regard, the biggest challenge is to avoid using SO2, which is an antioxidant and anti-microbial, among other things. These expansions have been challenging, but rewarding as the results are finally realized in the glass.

Across the pond, the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano consortium in Italy’s Tuscany region has been similarly hard at work in pushing a sustainability agenda. The result of its hard work was its award of the Equalitas standard’s sustainability certification, making it the first (and currently only) Italian wine denomination to achieve this milestone. The certification trademark extends to the entire region and is the result of a program initially implemented in the early 1990s and then built upon over the years.

To receive this prestigious certification entails “compliance with a high number of environmental requirements (like biodiversity and the measuring of carbon and water footprints) and socio-economic requirements (like verifying that the principles of freedom of association and equal opportunity are respected).”

Among these efforts, in 2006, the consortium partnered with the municipal government to collect organic waste from the vineyards for use in the production of combustion biomass to supply energy to school and government buildings. Further, the region’s Carbon Footprint project became a national model in 2015.

Of course, these commitments are not at the expense of their commitment to making high quality wine. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is among Italy’s top designated wines having been promoted to DOCG status in 1980. Yet, it often gets overshadowed by its Tuscan neighbors: Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, whose wines also sport the Sangiovese grape.

The good news is that these wines are often well priced and provide great drinking pleasure. So you can feel good about their commitments to the Earth as you enjoy swirling, sipping and savoring them in your glass.

TASTING NOTES


TASTING NOTES: Domaine Bousquet

Domaine Bousquet LO CA Chardonnay 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $14.00
LO CA is a local calorie and low alcohol wine, which required numerous attempts to get it right due to ensure a wine that was stable and of the quality they desired. The resulting wine has 9% abv and 2% residual sugar. Green apple, musk and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate with high acidity, minerality, medium body and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Virgin Red Blend 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $13.00
A combination of 35% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Cabernet Franc, this wine is USDA-certified organic and sulfite-free. A fresh and easy drinking wine, it offers up berries, plum, floral and black cherry, with medium acidity, medium body and good length.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Pinot Noir 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00
Made with certified organic grapes, this wine took many years to perfect since Anne is very particular about her Pinot Noir. The time and effort were worth it with its complex aromas of smoke, tart cherry, and an earthy undertone. It is medium bodied with bright acidity and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gran Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00
A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec (both of which are certified organic), this wine presents notes of vanilla, oak, black fruit and a slight leaf character on the nose. With Medium+ body, good acidity, firm ripe tannins, and black and blue fruit, it is ripe yet dry, culminating in long length.

TASTING NOTES: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

A recent walk-around tasting event provided attendees with the opportunity to taste through a collection of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines as well as meet a few of the winery representatives.

Here are a few of my favorites (notes are limited):

Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot
Fresh, with decidedly herbal characteristics, firmer tannins and floral notes.

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2018, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Canaiolo and other authorized grapes
Meatier, with really nice depth and riper fruit.

Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy
70% Sangiovese and other red grape varieties
Floral, powerful, with darker fruit, less tannic than some of the other wines.

Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy
90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino
With complex notes of smoke, oak, black fruit, it has a lighter structure and texture, with a distinct cherry and leafy palate.

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Merlot
Rich and ripe with dark cherry aromas and flavors, firm tannins.

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2018, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Mammolo
Floral with lush, ripe red fruit, soft tannins and long length.

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
90-95% Sangiovese, 5-10% other grapes, including Canaiolo and Colorino
Cherry and plum, with dusty tannins, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano S. Caterina 2019, Tuscany, Italy
100% Sangiovese
Intense nose and palate, with ripe red fruit and long length.

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggio Stella 2017, Tuscany, Italy
mostly Sangiovese
Lovely and soft, with cherries, berries and vanilla.


Colome’s winemaker is living the impossible dream

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Born, raised and educated in Burgundy, Thibaut Delmotte launched his wine career doing three harvests each in Burgundy and Bordeaux before taking a year off to travel throughout South America. He booked an open ticket, headed to Buenos Aires and visited Argentina, Chile and Brazil, eventually finding himself somewhat settled in Salta teaching French at the local Alliance Française.

When a new acquaintance discovered his background as a winemaker she told him about a high elevation vineyard north of the city. He didn’t believe it was possible to grow vines at such an altitude but was intrigued enough to secure an appointment with the man behind the project: Donald Hess.

Thibaut and Donald arranged to meet at the property at 9:00 AM, which required Thibault to depart Salta at 5:00 AM. By 6:00 AM, the pavement gave way to gravel as he snaked his way up the mountain. By 9:00 AM, there was no sign of life and he was beginning to think that he had been punked. Soon he came to a small village and was assured that he was close to his destination. Another 40 minutes of driving brought him face to face with the tall, Swiss gentleman who promptly laughed at seeing the small, compact rental car in which Thibault had made the journey.

Still disbelieving, Thibaut permitted Donald to give him a tour of the mountainous property, which was barren desert – more suited to cacti than Cabernet. Then, he saw the eight hectares of pre-phylloxera vines and was duly impressed.

Hess spoke about his grand plans for multiple vineyards and a large capacity winery. Thibaut was excited about the opportunity, but readily admitted to his lack of experience to take on such a project. Undeterred, Donald continued with the tour and invited Thibaut to lunch that afternoon. But, before the meal, he was to take part in a blind tasting during which he was asked to taste and rank 10 wines in order of his preference. It was the ultimate job interview! When Thibaut’s least favorite wine was revealed to be the Colome Malbec Reserva he was certain he had blown his chance, but Donald appreciated his feedback as to why the French-born and bred winemaker didn’t find the overt/powerful wine to his liking. Hess offered him the job on the condition that he commit to the post for at least three years. That was fifteen years ago.

In the early years, the emphasis was on building the new winery, developing the vineyards and, equally important, investing in the local village to upgrade its infrastructure, increase its access to education and solve social ills such as alcoholism and teen pregnancy. It was also necessary to create own electricity

Despite its initial rusticity, the Colome property itself dates to 1831, when it was established by the Isasmendi-Dávalos family. It remained in the Dávalos family until 2001, when Hess was finally able to purchase the property. Hess himself was first acquainted with Colome and its potential while visiting his great aunt in Buenos Aires several years prior and had the opportunity to taste an old bottle of its wine.

In addition to the state-of-the-art winery, Colome’s estate is home to the James Turrell Museum. Turrell is a California-based, light and space artist, whose experiential installations defy explanation. To get a better sense of his art, please see: http://www.bodegacolome.com/museo/?lang=en  The winery attracts 8,000 visitors each year who usually spend half a day tasting wine and visiting the museum. A nine-room hotel is also available on the estate for those who wish to stay over.

More recently, the focus has been on two special projects: Autentico and Altura Maxima (maximum height). The Autentico project relies on doing things the “old way.” In this regard, the best blocks of 100 year+ vines are still trained using the pergola system, watered with flood (instead of drip) irrigation, treated without chemicals and generally approached with a low intervention philosophy. This approach continues in the winery, where the use of oak is eschewed in favor of showing the true (authentic) wine in the glass, uncovered by wood aromas and flavors.

At a height of 3,111 meters (10,200 feet) in altitude, Altura Maxima is the highest vineyard in the world (although a recently planted plot in Tibet threatens to take this title away). It was initially planted in 2007 to Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as Malbec. Given the elevation, the vines receive more ultraviolet light, forcing them to develop thicker skins on the grapes. This ultimately produces wines with more structure and concentration, while the 25 degree diurnal difference ensures that the wines retain high levels of acidity and elegance. All of this comes at a price; the very extreme conditions mean that wasps, donkeys and frost are all threats to the fruit. Thus, the vineyard only yields a small production of grapes (4 kilos per hectare compared to 7 kilos per hectare).

TASTING NOTES
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is IMG_20181118_191526_076-1024x1024.jpgColome Autentico 2017, Salta, Argentina, $on-premise only
This 100% Malbec is deep purple in color with intense aromas of wood, plum, black fruit. The dry palate displays very ripe blackberry and blueberry joined by floral and spice, with firm, ripe tannins, full body and medium+ length. It is released young, but can age five to seven years.

Colome Altura Maxima 2014, Salta, Argentina, $125.00
Also 100% Malbec, this wine spends 23 months in old oak and one year in bottle before release. It is a very floral Malbec with fine grained tannins.