Located in Italy’s Lombardy region, Oltrepo Pavese gets its name from its location on the “other side” of the Po River, the longest in Italy. Home to over 220 indigenous grape varieties, this region is extremely diverse, producing wines that range from still and sparkling, to dry and sweet and everything in between. Additionally, it’s shared borders with the regions of Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna and Liguria have exerted their influence on the resulting wines as well.

As the third largest grower of Pinot Noir (lagging only behind Burgundy and Champagne), Pinot in its many guises is well represented here. Known by the Italian Pinot Nero, the grape is made into sparkling, white and red wines. Pinot Grigio is also widely planted. Interestingly, due to Lombardy’s historic ties to the Savoy kingdom, Riesling is also found in its vineyards.

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The diversity is further reflected in its many different sub-denominations. For example, there are four alone just for Metodo Classico sparkling wines. Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese refers to a lightly sparkling (frizzante) red wine produced from a minimum of 85% Croatina, supplemented with up to 15% of Barbera, Ughetta, and/or Uva Rara. Finally, the unusually titled Sangue di Giuda is named for the legend that Judas came back to life to atone for his betrayal of Jesus, ultimately helping to end an epidemic in the vineyards. This sweet red can be lightly or fully sparkling and may be produced from 25-65% Barbera, 25-65% Croatina, with the remainder being Uva Rara, Ughetta and/or Pinot Nero, up to a maximum of 45%.

Thus, it was a fun and festive introduction to these wines at Sottocasa, an authentic thin-crust pizza restaurant in Harlem, which was the site for an informal wine dinner. Our meal featured an assortment of Oltrepo Pavese wines paired with a selection of salads, pizzas and people. Yet, the informal nature of the event did not mean that the wines were any less complex or of low quality. In fact, they were quite delicious and easy to pair with both the savory and sweet dishes on the crowded table.

Moreover, the diversity of vinous flavors, coupled with the hodge podge of people and food, was the perfect proving ground for Thanksgiving, which we will celebrate in the U.S. this week. While Oltrepo Pavese may be situated on the other side of the Po, this time of year in the U.S. we are metaphorically heading “Over the river and into the woods… to grandmother’s house…” to celebrate Thanksgiving with family, friends or both, with our own assortment of culinary traditions on the table.

The sparkling, white and red wines of Oltrepo Pavese should be a welcome addition to your feast throughout the holiday season and beyond with their flexible, food-friendly nature.

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TASTING NOTES

The following wines were those we tasted at Sottacasa, but you can search out whatever Oltrepo Pavese are available at your local wine store.

Defilippi Gessi Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC Crocetta 2021, $25
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks

Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks
This was my preference among the Pinot Grigios, but they were all quite good.

Ca di Frara Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks

Ca Montebello Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pinot Nero Vinificato in Bianco 2021, $25
100% Pinot Nero. Vinified as a white wine, this Pinot was extremely fresh and lively, light bodied, really beautiful and super easy to drink. It was a crowd favorite at our meal.

Castello di Luzzano Sommossa Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021, $23
100% Croatina. This dry, sparkling red, was produced using the tank method, with raspberries and blackberries, and long length.

Losito & Guarini Giovannella Fugazza Bonarda Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC C’Era Una Volta NV, $20
100% Croatina, tank method.

Dino Torti Oltrepo Pavese DOC Barbera Route 66, 2019, $25
100% Barbera, aged in Fench barrique for 18 months. I didn’t take good notes, but I did enjoy this fresh, medium-bodied red.

Tenuta Travaglino Pinot Nero Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pernero 2021
100% Pinot Nero, tank fermentation, 6 months aging on the lees. A light-bodied red, with good cherry fruit, a hint of herbaceousness and lively acidity.

Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Sangue di Guida Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021
Croatina, Uva Rara, Barbera, field blend, Martinotti Method. This off dry, red sparkling wine was lovely and fresh and a good pairing with dessert.