Category Archives: Wine

Campania’s Sannio Wines Delight at Del Posto

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Although I am generally familiar with the wines of Italy’s Campania region, namely through visits to Feudi di San Gregorio and Mastroberadino, I had never heard of Sannio. Or, admittedly, if I had, it was likely memorized for a wine exam and then promptly forgotten. My mistake…and my misfortune for overlooking these wines.

Thankfully the error of my ways has been rectified, thanks to a beautiful introduction to these wines back in October. We were welcomed to a sumptuous lunch at Del Posto restaurant by Consorzio President, Dr. Libero Rillo, who provided some background on this tiny territory in the province of Benevento. But, despite its small size (~10,000 hectares), it is important to the Campania region. Here, the emphasis is on the indigenous grape varieties of Aglianico, Falanghina and others.

The Consorzio itself dates in 1999 and comprises 400 members. It overseas several denominations including Aglianico del Taburno DOCG, which produces red or rose wines, Falanghina del Sannio DOP, which is restricted to white and sparkling as well as the Sannio DOP which offers a full range of styles. An IGP Benevento or Beneventano also exists. 

The 10,000 hectares are allocated among nearly 10,000 wineries, including two cooperatives. Most are small and medium in size, producing a total of 25 million bottles annually among the IGT, DOC and DOCG designations. However, the consorzio is eager to increase its production, especially at the quality levels.

Attendees at the aforementioned press luncheon has the opportunity to explore the two vaunted denominations: Falanghina Sannio DOC and Aglianico del Tabruno DOCG, under the tutelage of Somm In the City, Sara Lehman. While the Falanghina grape has ancient roots, its name has much more modern origins thanks to the trellis poles aka “falanga” that were used to support the vines. The wine received its DOP status in 2013, and is known for its minerality, good acidity, and ability to age for 10-15 years, during which time it develops complexity. These grapes must be sourced from the hillsides where there is some elevation, which helps to avoid the humidity found on the valley floor.

The Aglianico del Tabruno DOCG harkens back to the Greeks who came to the area centuries ago, settling near Mt. Taburno. The wine’s DOCG status was bestowed in 2011 and comprises both red and rose wines. The rose, which doesn’t require any aging, is currently the only Italian rose to hold this designation level. The reds must be aged for a minimum of two years in wood and bottle, with the Riservas aged for three years in wood and another 12 months in bottle. These are powerful, tannic wines with complexity and good aging potential, known for aromas of blackberry, plum, violet and black pepper.

WHITE WINE TASTING NOTES
I deliberately limited my consumption of the Falanghinas knowing that we were going to taste a lot of reds with the seated lunch (we tasted 13 and I’ve included my notes on my 8 favorites). Accordingly, I limited my tasting to the sparkling Falanghina del Sannio DOP – V.S.Q. Brut from Cantina di Solopaca, which is one of the oldest co-ops in the area, with grapes sourced from the slopes of Mt. Taburno. It was refreshing, with good acidity and nice fruit aromas and flavors.

I also tasted the Mustilli Vigna Segreta Falanghina 2016, a wine produced from a cru vineyard known for its volcanic and limestone soils. It was rich and concentrated with good minerality and long length.

RED WINE TASTING NOTES
2018 Elena Catalano Sannio Aglianico 2018, Italy
This wine, produced solely in stainless steel, was youthful, with robust red and black fruit, firm tannins and good length.

Fattoria la Rivolta Pediarosso Taburno Sannio DOP 2018, Italy
Made from hand-harvested grapes grown on clay and volcanic soil, this wine offered up bright red fruit, lovely freshness and notes of pepper that lingered in the finish.

Cantina di Solopaca Barbera 2017, Italy
This wine is produced from 20 year old vines grown on clay and limestone soils on the slopes of Mt. Taberno, It offers up a very earthy nose, with a clay undercurrent and red fruit aromas and flavors.
  
Cautiero Sannio DOC Aglianico 2016, Italy
After moving to the city as adults, the winery’s owners returned to the countryside to pursue their love of wine and the land, choosing to focus on organic farming. The wine is tight and needs time, but displays nice black fruit and long length.

Terre Stregate Manent Sannio Aglianico 2016, Italy
This is a beautiful and balanced wine with lovely aromas and flavors of red fruit, earth and herbs, along with good structure. It spent 6-8 months aging in barriques.

Azienda Agricola Scompiglio Barbera del Sannio 2016, Italy
Lush and gorgeous on the nose and palate, this Barbera was floral in character with blueberry and blackcherry notes, lingering in the long length.

Azienda Agricola Castelle Aglianico Riserva 2015, Italy
As a Riserva-level wine, it spent the minimum three years aging in oak. It was lovely, yet tannic and will be better in time.
 
Torre del Pagus Aglianico Taburno DOCG 2013, Italy
This wine spent 12 months in oak, with another year aging in bottle before release. It was  elegant, with good structure and lots of red fruit notes.


My Heart Belongs to Sicily and its Wines

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Sicily will always have a cherished place in my heart. I visited the Italian region in 2013 and spent a week crisscrossing the island, learning its history and immersing myself in its wine culture. At the end of my visit, I found myself at Palermo Airport crying…and I wasn’t even heading home; I still had another two weeks in Italy before I returned to the U.S.!

Something about the magical week struck me hard and stuck with me. A Siren song, perhaps? In truth, Sicily is more associated with other mythical creatures than the sirens, but regardless, I was thankfully lulled to its vinous pleasures not to my untimely death.

Since that visit, I have been thrilled to watch Sicily’s dedication to improving excellence in its wine production. Under the leadership of Antonio Rallo president of Wines of Sicilia DOC (and agronomist and winemaker for his family’s Donnafugata winery), the region has seen the creation of the Sicilia DOC category, increasing the quality level and prominence of Sicilian wines.

Accordingly, well-established wineries have risen to the challenge, elevating their wines with an eye toward innovation, yet maintaining tradition. In this regard, they remain true to their culture and heritage with an emphasis on local varieties such as Grillo, Nero d’Avola and Frappato, grapes which have been cultivated in the area for centuries.

More specifically, the modern winery at Stemmari was built to reflect the rural architectural structure known as the baglio. Similarly, Baglio di Pianetto has embraced environmental sustainability and adopted organic farming practices while the ancient feudal domain of Feudo Principi di Butera once belonged to Sicily’s first prince (Ambrogio Branciforte), but has been restored by the well-known Zonin family. And all three producers respect and understand the various terroirs of the island region.

TASTING NOTES
Baglio di Pianetto Timeo Grillo 2018, Sicilia DOC, Italy, $13.00
Lovely notes of musk, minerality and wax greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is dry, with fresh acidity and medium body. It is more structured and less fruit focused, showing notes of pear and citrus, with elegance and long length.

Stemmari Cantodoro Rosso Riserva 2014, Sicilia DOC, Italy, $14.00
A blend of 80% Nero dA’Avola and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this rich and concentrated red wine features aromas of plums and earth. The dry palate offers up medium+ acidity, medium+ body, light tannins, and shows some development, with long length.

Feudo Principi di Butera Deliella Nero d’Avola 2014, Sicila DOC, Italy, $90.00
This wine is among the three esteemed cru level wines produced by Feudo Principi di Butera. It is a 100% Nero d’Avola from a single vineyard Deliella, named for the local district. The full-bodied wine is elegant with bright acidity, beautiful red fruit aromas and flavors, slight herbal characteristics on the nose and palate, which linger in the very long length.

Loire Valley Reds: Of Castles, Kings and Cabernet Franc

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As a former playground for the Kings of France, the Loire Valley is awash in luxurious castles, but it is equally awash in wonderful wine! Here, grapes have been grown for centuries, dating to the Romans who first planted in the Pays Nantais. Yet it wasn’t until the 5th century that things really got started with some of the earliest mentions of the area’s vineyards made in 528 by Gregoire of Tours in which he cited those in Sancerre and Touraine.

Later, the Loire’s viticultural heritage was squarely in the hands of the church, strongly influenced by both the Augustine and Benedictine monks who understood not only how to make great wine but also how to communicate about and distribute the wines. In this regard, they took full advantage of the local rivers’ safer travel (compared with the roads).

The region’s wine acclaim was further boosted by Henry II Plantagenet, Count of Anjou, when he became king of England in 1154 and permitted only Anjou wines to be served at court (it’s good to be king!), a custom continued by his successors, John Lackland and Henry III.

Today, while often known for its aromatic whites, the Loire Valley is also very adept at crafting high quality reds, namely from Pinot Noir, Gamay and Cabernet Franc. These grapes and others typically deliver fresh, fruity, food-friendly options and should be easily found in your local wine store.

Need some inspiration? Befitting the region’s long and illustrious history, these three wines beautifully illustrate the elegance and ease that the reds of the Loire Valley provide.

Hippolyte Reverdy 
It’s possible that the Hippolyte Reverdy family has made wine as far back as 1600, but it wasn’t until the end of World War II that they began to increase their production, eventually bottling greater and greater quantities under their own label and no longer selling their grapes to the local coopérative. The winery is presently in the hands of Michel Reverdy who joined in his family’s estate in 1971.

Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre Rouge 2016, Loire Valley, France
Sourced from 30-year old Pinot Noir vines, this wine displays aromas of berries, cherries and dried herbs. The light-bodied palate is really nice, with fruit-driven cherry flavors, a slightly rustic character, along with an earthy/herbal undercurrent in the long finish.

Domaine du Petit Clocher
Presently managed by the fourth successive generation, this estate has grown from 5 to 80 hectares over 50 years. Yet, it remains true to its roots, favoring traditional wine making practices.

Domaine du Petit Clocher, Anjou 2016, Loire Valley, France
This 100% Cabernet Franc offers up wet leaves, dried herbs. The dry palate displays medium+ acidity, medium to full body, grainy, textural tannins, raspberry, herbaceous notes and long length.

Chateau de Coulaine
This family-owned winery has been operating continuously since 1300! Etienne de Bonnaventure has been at the helm of viticulture and winemaking responsibilities since 1988 and was joined by his son, Jean, in 2014. The 12-hectare estate is planted exclusively to Cabernet Franc, with the vineyards farmed organically.

Chateau de Coulaine Chinon 2017, Loire Valley, France
A beautiful nose of mulberry, blueberry and cranberry gives way to wet leaves, with a textural palate of medium, ripe tannins, medium+ body, high acidity, oak and leafy flavors and long length.

The Wonderful Wines of Domane Wachau

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On what was a long overdue visit to the U.S. (and only his first time in New York), Domane Wachau’s winemaker Heinz Frischengruber poured a collection of his wines for the media at Aureole restaurant. Owned by 250 families, the Domane Wachau estate is located in Austria’s highly esteemed Wachau wine region, which is an UNESCO heritage site for both its natural beauty and its culture. Viticulturally, the region is known for its cool climate, diverse soils, river influence and abundant sunshine.

Originally born and raised in the region, Heinz has been at Domane Wachau for fifteen years and has become an integral part of the team, focusing his quality efforts on viticulture and traditional winemaking techniques. Heinz’ family is also in the wine industry (his brother currently runs the family business), so he grew up with wine in his blood (or at least in his backyard).

Before arriving at Domane Wachau, Heinz previously worked in Germany, gaining experience at Geisenheim and also studied overseas as well to build his knowledge base. But, he had always wanted to work at Domane Wachau, which is very well known and respected in the area. Its 1,000 hectares are considered to be the best terroir in the region, many of which are situated directly on the Danube.  Here, the steeply terraced vineyards must be worked by hand; in fact, one-fifth of the vineyards are not accessible by tractor due to the vertical nature of the terrain. In recognition for the challenges inherent in maintaining such vineyards, an association has been created to save the terraced vineyards for the next generation.

With the region’s mosaic of different soil types, microclimates, higher and lower altitudes, Heinz loves to play with single vineyards. In this regard, he noted, “You have to know your soils,” in determining which style of wine to make. Further, he understands his grape varieties, explaining that Riesling can adapt even better than Gruner Veltliner, calling Gruner a luxury variety due to its heightened need for water. Yet, it, too, can be grown on a variety of different soils, producing a versatility in wine styles, attributing marked spiciness in the variety when grown on terraced vineyards and stone fruit with a rounder, fatty profile when grown on loess soils.

In the vineyards, there is a strong commitment to sustainable agriculture and biodiversity. When asked about climate change, Heinz reported that there has been significantly less rainfall and the occasional crazy high temperatures (greater than 35o C) in recent years. Accordingly, canopy management is more important than ever to shade the grapes, retain acidity and avoid burning.

Once the grapes are in the winery, Heinz declares, “I’m a caretaker, not a winemaker.” A big fan of traditional winemaking, he prefers to utilize skin contact to produce fresh, elegant and spicy (read a peppery note – similar to the pyrazines found in Sauvignon Blanc) in his Gruner Veltliners. This skin contact also gives some tannic grip that adds to the complexity of the wines.

As we tasted through a collection of wines at lunch, it was clear that these were well-made, elegant and concentrated wines that provided beauty, balance and bang for your buck. In other words, they were simply wonderful!

TASTING NOTES

Domane Wachau Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen 2018 – $18.00
Grown on steep terraced vineyards, this entry-level Gruner Veltliner offers up citrus and minerality on the nose. On the dry, medium-to-full bodied palate, it is rich and mineral on the palate with good acidity, stone fruit, peach pit and very long length.

Domane Wachau Riesling Federspiel Terrassen 2018 – $20.00
From the same entry-level line, the Riesling was more aromatic, with pronounced aromas of peaches, apricot, exotic fruit, pineapple, spiciness, flinty, and a hint of black pepper, which Heinz attributed to the soil. It was more concentrated, fuller-bodied and richer than a German Riesling, with medium acidity and long length.
Domane Wachau Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Ried Liebenberg 2018 – $25.00
Produced from the Ried Liebenberg single vineyard, which consists of very steep terraces and poor sandy soils, this wine offers up concentrated stone and mineral aromas. It was dry, but with riper fruit than the Terrassen GV, with apricot, stone, slight spice, displaying a structured, more terroir driven wine, with medium acidity, medium body and culminating in long length.

Domane Wachau Riesling Federspiel Ried Bruck 2018 – $25.00
Sourced from the winery’s coolest area, with grapes grown on south facing slopes, the Ried Bruck single vineyard Riesling greets the nose with white peaches, mandarin oranges, and marzipan. It had higher acidity than the Gruner Veltliner, with notes of smoke, petrol and wet stone on the long finish.

Domane Wachau Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten 2016 – $46.00
We finished the meal with the outstanding Achleiten, a very steep single vineyard made up of dark stones and flinty soils that fades right into the Danube. The resulting wine was well structured with good aging potential, dominated by peach and mineral aromas and flavors. The fresh palate was concentrated with long length and sufficient body and complexity to pair with heavier dishes such as duck or beef.

NB: Established in 1983, Vinea Wachau celebrates wines of provenance made only from Wachau grapes. There are three different (and hierarchal) style categories ranging from lightest to the most concentrated, each represented visually by an Austrian symbol to reflect the unique style and heritage of each wine.

Steinfeder: Feather
Lightest in style, with a maximum alcohol by volume (abv) of 11.5%.

Federspiel: Falcon
Medium bodied, with an abv of 12-12.5% abv, always fermented dry, elegant

Smaragd: Lizard
This highest category is reserved for dry, concentrated and complex wines, made from very ripe/late harvest grapes sourced from the best vineyards and fermented dry.

Who Runs the (Wine) World: Susana Balbo, Wines of Sicily and the Women in Australian Wine Awards makes the answer abundantly clear

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A flurry of events featuring the women of wine kicked off the season’s return after the summer hiatus. Admittedly, women in wine is both new and nothing new. As they say, behind every great man is a great woman. But, perhaps the more novel news is that women are now standing (in) front and center of (or at least next to) many men in the vineyards and wineries the world over.

While I missed it due to ill health, the Women in Australian Wine Awards honored the women who have made their mark in Australian wine. The world’s “first and only awards platform for women in wine,” was held on September 17 in New York.

Similarly, an event earlier in the month presented a wide range of Wines of Sicily, recognizing the women in this region. I had the opportunity to meet Lilly Ferro Fazio, Export Manager of Casa Vinicola Fazio, who shared her experiences in bringing together the women of her region and noting the challenges they faced amidst a very traditional/male-dominated society. She addressed the need to find support and resources to successfully manage both her job and the family household because her husband still expects her to fulfill a traditional spousal role in addition to her career.

Another wine woman bucking the trend of being a simple, stay-at-home mom, is Argentine winemaker, Susana Balbo who initially applied to study nuclear physics in Bariloche. Her parents would not permit her to leave Mendoza, but, not one to be deterred, she eventually became the first woman in Argentina to earn a degree in enology. By 2012 she had been named as one of the “Most influential women wine-makers” by The Drink Business magazine, and, six years later, was listed among “The 10 most influential women in the wine world” in the same publication.

Today, Susana Balbo produces wines in both Mendoza and Salta regions. Her wines are well respected and can be found in the market under two labels: her namesake Susana Balbo and her Crios line. The Crios portfolio recently underwent a makeover, sporting new packaging that emphasizes the wines’ elegance and classic nature. Available in four different varietal options, the wines were recently released in the New York market.

Crios Torrontes 2018, Cafayate (Salta) and Valle de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00
Pronounced nose with floral, tropical fruit, hint of cotton candy and a dry, yet ripe, palate with medium-to-full body, medium acidity and long length.

Crios Rose 2018 of Malbec, Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00
Notes of strawberry, cherry and watermelon greet the nose. The palate is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, culminating in long length.

Crios Malbec 2018 Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00
Deep in color, this wine displays fresh and dried herbs and blackberry aromas, which are joined by spice and red fruit flavors on the dry, full-bodied palate, with good length.

Crios Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00
The nose offers up lovely red and black fruit, which persist on the dry, full-bodied palate, with textural tannins, blackberry, black cherry, oak, with good acidity and long length.

Alto Adige: Where the Hills Are Alive with the Sound of Viticulture

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Upon arrival in the Italian region of Alto Adige, the scenery and topography make a powerful statement. Greeted by snow-topped peaks, verdant mountains and Swiss chalet-style architecture, you would half expect Julie Andrews to suddenly appear and belt out songs from the Sound of Music. This northern-most province borders both Austria and Switzerland and was under Austrian rule until 1919. And, to this day, both Italian and a dialect of German are the official languages, with over two-thirds of the population speaking German as their native tongue.

Rather, instead of hearing from Julie or the von Trapp family, the hills of South Tyrol (Südtirol) are alive with the sound of viticulture. And, despite its limited size (when considered separate from Trentino, Alto Adige is the smallest of Italy’s 20 regions), 98% of its production is at the Protected Designation of Origin level – the most of any Italian region!

With the Dolomites to the East and the Alps to the north, these mountain ranges shelter the area from the cold forces of the North and trap air from the lakes and limit the annual rainfall, resulting in 300 sunny days per year. Conversely, the strong Ora winds coming off nearby Lake Garda help to temper the summer heat. Given this duality of cooling and warming influences, Alto Adige is home to both Mediterranean and Alpine botany along with vineyards and apple orchards.

Not surprisingly, given these climatic conditions, the region is highly regarded for its white wines, which account for 60% of regional production. However, it also boasts some spectacular reds as well. In general, the steep slopes at the highest elevations (820 to 2800 feet) are given over to white varieties, while the lower, rolling hills are planted to reds. The high-altitude vineyards benefit especially from the area’s wide diurnal shift, permitting the grapes to ripen fully, while retaining high levels of acidity. Moreover, the region’s diverse soils, which include limestone, quartz and volcanic porphyry, further retain acidity and add minerality to the wines.

Wine glasses are given over to over 20 different varieties, with many indigenous grapes taking center stage. In addition to Pinot Grigio and Gewurztraminer, the white Kerner, an aromatic hybrid of Trollinger and Riesling, has been widely grown in the area. Among the reds, Lagrein, a descendant of Teroldego has strong roots in Bolzano and stands out for its tannic structure.
 
Beyond the glass, the mix of German and Italian cultures extends to the kitchen where speck, knödel dumplings, brown breads and fruit strudels make their way to the plate. But, regardless of what you have on your plate, these two wines should be equally welcome in your home.

Strasserhof Kerner 2017 Valle Isarco Alto Adige, Italy
This wine offers up a limited fruit profile on the nose and palate, but makes up for it in fresh acidity, beautiful minerality, lean body and long length.

Castelfeder Burgum Novum Lagrein Riserva 2014, Alto Adige, Italy
Inky, deep ruby in color, this wine displayed a brooding, intense nose of wet leaves, plum and dried red fruit, giving way to a dry, full-bodied palate, with bright acidity, medium+ ripe and resolved tannins, and long length with a smoky finish.

Stop and smell the La Copa! Gonzalez-Byass releases two Vermouth options

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Vermouth is more often tossed into cocktails than sipped on its own. But, good Vermouth is great on its own. These aromatized wines combine fortified wine with an array of fruit, spices and herbs to create an intriguing combination of aromas and flavors.

Recently released by Gonzalez-Byass, the La Copa Vermouths feature not just any fortified wine, but Sherry! Available in two options: Extra dry and Rojo (Red), the La Copa Vermouths are definitely worth mixing into your next cocktail, but can easily be enjoyed as an aperitif or digestif.

Famed Sherry producer Gonzalez-Byass has a long history of producing Vermouth, with historical references at the company that date back to 1896. These new releases are based on the original recipes and the labels echo those found in their archives.

TASTING NOTES

Gonzalez-Byass La Copa Vermouth Extra Seco, $24.99
100% Palomino
For this wine, Gonzalez-Byass selects a number of dry Fino Sherries, which have been aged for an average of 3 years and then are infused with an assortment of botanicals of wormwood, savory, clove, cinnamon as well as as red fruits. It is very floral on the nose, with herbs and baking spices. On the palate, it is dry, with just a hint of sweetness on the attack, beautifully balanced and fresh, with herbs, flowers and citrus lingering in the long finish.

Gonzalez-Byass La Copa Vermouth Rojo, $24.99
75% Palomino, 25% Pedro Ximenez
This Vermouth brings together Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez Sherries that are more than 8 years old, with a blend of botanicals including wormwood, clove, orange peel, nutmeg and cinnamon. The wine is pale mahogany in color, with notes of mushrooms, herbs, spices, clove and cinnamon are most prominent. It is off-dry to medium sweet on the palate, full-bodied with medium+ length and flavors of bitter orange and spice. Overall, it is complex and very refreshing despite the sweetness.

Cool as a Cucumber! Chablis 2017

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While we are blessed to have thousands of grape varieties from which to choose, sometimes returning to an old favorite is a nice surprise. So, it you have been giving shade to Chardonnay lately, perhaps it’s time to turn your attention back to this great grape. And, Chablis is a perfect expression of this wonderful variety!

Located in the northernmost area of France’s Burgundy region, Chablis offers up fresh, pure fruit with predominant notes of citrus, green apple, limestone and other minerality. On the palate, it displays bright acidity, medium to full body and overall, well-made wines with balance and complexity.

The 2017 vintage was a classic one, but with smaller yields. Accordingly, there are fewer wines available, but those that were made are excellent. These wines are infinitely food friendly, ready to drink now, but will definitely develop more complexity with time in bottle.

The 2017 growing season’s weather conditions permitted the grapes to achieve full ripeness, but it was not overly hot, so acidity levels were retained – a hallmark of Chablis wines. Consequently, these wines are crisp, bright and fresh…. and perfect for the dog days of summer!

TASTING NOTES
Domaine Chantemerle Chablis 2017, $27.00
Aromas of flint, apple and smoke greet the nose. On the palate, it is dry and full-bodied with high acidity, notes of apple, pear, a hint of melon and nuttiness, with long length.

Gilbert Picq et ses Fils Chablis 2017, $21.00
Displaying a shy nose with mineral and stone, this dry wine offers up high acidity, medium+ body, tidal pool and apple flavors, along with long length.

Chateau de Maligny Chablis 2017, $25.00
With an intense nose of minerality and green apple, this wine is dry, with very high acidity, medium+ body and flavors of green apple and flint, with very long length.

Domaine Vocoret & Fils Chablis 2017, $30.00
Notes of stone, gunmetal and green apple dominate the nose, giving way to more citrus flavors on the dry, bright full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.

Peter Zemmer Picked a Pinot Grigio that Packs a Punch

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Pinot Grigio can be challenging. There is a lot of insipid Pinot Grigio out there. As the grape became very popular, it prompted many producers to make cheap and cheerful wines that really don’t deliver on the quality and caliber that this grape has to offer. This wine is not one of those. Rather, Peter Zemmer’s Pinot Grigio is a delicious iteration of this great grape, that provides beautiful aromas and flavors and is wonderful on its own or with a meal.

Winemaker Peter Zemmer is a member of the third-generation of his family to take over the estate, which his grandfather established in  1928. Since that time, the brand has become widely recognized as a quality producer in Italy’s Alto Adige region. Previously part of Austria, this Italian region is known for its alpine vineyards, which see a significant number of hours of sunshine annually, ensuring that the grapes reach full maturity, but the high elevation means that they also maintain beautifully bracing acidity.

Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio 2018, Alto Adige, Italy, $18.00
Aromas of tangerine, citrus, mineral and hint of petrol greet the nose. On the palate, the wine offers up a hint of ripeness, but is generally dry, with medium+ luscious body, rich and concentrated, slightly oily texture unctuous, citrus, mineral, long length.


Living la vie en rose with the Provence Rose Group

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There’s just something about rosé that invites in the fun! Perhaps it’s its pale pink hue which is a bit flirty and doesn’t take itself too seriously. Regardless, despite the rain, the Mondrian Park Avenue’s rooftop terrace bar still enticed with a selection of Provençal rosés from Château de Berne and Ultimate Provence on Thursday evening.

The former winery sits on a 1,235-acre estate and has been producing wine since 1776, with roots that date back to the Romans, and is home to a Relais et Chateau hotel. Despite having vineyards that were planted in 1956, the latter is a more recent addition to the Provençal scene, with its state-of-the-art, hospitality destination estate (think winery, hotel, tasting bar, restaurant, fitness center and concept store), making its debut this summer.

From romance and inspiration to a rosé for all seasons
The three wines being poured provided a range of drinking options from a poolside quaffer (Romance) to a classic style rosé (Inspiration) and a more serious pink performer capable of pairing with sturdier fare.

In conversation with Bob Gaudreau, CEO of Provence Rosé Group, we spoke about the food-friendly nature of rosés and, in particular, their ability to match well at Thanksgiving dinner. He was especially bullish about pairing the Ultimate Provence wine with dark meat turkey.

Produced from younger vines at lower elevations, the Château de Berne Romance IGP Mediterannée ($14.99) is an easy to drink, fruit-forward option, getting color, structure and flavors from the inclusion of 15% Merlot, which is not permitted in the AOP wines.

With slightly more substance and structure, Château de Berne Inspiration AOP Côtes de Provence 2018 ($20.00) brings together 50% Grenache Noir, 30% Cinsault, 20% Syrah and is made by the same winemaker, Alexis Cornu.

Finally, also produced by Cornu, the Ultimate Provence UP Rosé 2018 Côtes de Provence ($21.99) offers up less fruit and more mineral and spice characteristics, with good acidity and structure, making it a welcome addition at the dinner table.

Provence Rosé Group has teamed up with Park Mondrian to present a Rosé Terrace to give consumers an opportunity to become better acquainted with these wines in a festive setting that puts the emphasis squarely on the wines. They have also partnered with Topping Rose House in Bridgehampton, NY to create a similarly-themed Rosé Garden. Either location is a lovely environment in which to sit back, relax and enjoy some rosé!