Category Archives: Wine

Rediscovering the Many Faces of Valpolicella

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With its long history of wine production dating to the 6th century, Valpolicella is well known. Moreover, it has grown significantly in production over the past 30 years, from 1 million bottles annually to more than 40 million bottles (60 million if you include the full complement of wines). However, as sommelier, Filippo Bartolotta noted, it has been slow to catch up with its reputation, calling it an underdog in the wine world.

At a recent Valpolicella Master Class held in New York City at Café DiPalo, Bartolotta spent time providing a wealth of information to the assembled wine press and trade. In the end, there is a lot to know if one wishes to truly understand this wine, but it is certainly accessible and enjoyable without knowing all of the nuances that make up this family of wines.

Wherefore Art Thou Valpolicella?
Situated north of (the fair city of) Verona in Italy’s Veneto region, the Valpolicella production area comprises three zones: Valpolicella, Valpolicella Classico and Valpantena. Here, east of Lake Garda and protected by the Lessini Mountains, the area is favorably impacted by cool winds and cool nights that fix the color and aroma in the grapes.

Geologically, the area was formed 120 million years ago when two plates collided creating the Alps. The soils are calcareous, with the obvious presence of fossils and dinosaur footprints, imparting minerality to the wines. Volcanic soils are also present underneath the balsamic strata. More recently, major studies on how the varied soils impact on different varieties have been undertaken.

With regard to varieties, Valpolicella is produced from a combination of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara and other local grapes. As the starring players, Corvina and/or Corvinone can account for 45-95% of the blend, which is a recent change to the requirements. Corvina is known for providing backbone, structure and perfume, similar to Pinot Noir, while the thicker- and darker-skinned Corvinone lends power, color and structure to the wines. Rondinella, which is the other mandatory variety and permitted from 5 to 30%, adds both minerality and acidity. Up to 15% of other indigenous varieties can round out the blend.

What’s in a Name?
But, as Bartolotta emphasized, the story is much more complicated than climate and soil because Valpolicella is a wine about process rather than about a single variety or even several varieties. In particular, there are four separate wines produced under the Valpolicella umbrella: Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG and Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG. These differing wines are the result of the historical development of wine in the region. In addition, Valpolicella Superiore DOC are those Valpolicella wines that have been produced from riper grapes, along with one year of aging, which are fuller-bodied in character.

Perhaps the most recognizable of the four, Amarone is produced from the best batches of fruit, which are left to dry in in specialized rooms for a minimum of 100 days. This extended drying period concentrates the sugars and reduces the weight of the grapes by 40%. It is during this process that Corvina truly shines as it undergoes various enzymatic reactions that alters its DNA and ultimately changes its flavor. Further, the grape will defend itself against noble rot, releasing balsamic vinegar aromas. Regardless of the varieties, all of the shriveled grapes are then fermented to dryness, yielding a concentrated, full-bodied wine, which must be aged for at least two years. Amarone Riserva has spent an additional two years of aging.

But, before there was Amarone, there was Recioto, with 2500 years of history! Stemming from the word rece – local lingo for ears – it was the lobes of the berries which garnered more sun exposure and thus higher quantities of sugar. These sugar-laden sections of the grape bunches were dried for lengthy periods of time. Taking advantage of the cold temperatures, the free run juice would be put outside to stop fermentation, the process would then be repeated and eventually the yeast stopped working. Interestingly, the Romans would add sulfur dioxide to kill off the yeast, a practice still used to this day. With high residual sugar levels, these are a rich and decadent dessert wines, which are produced in minute quantities.

Under the less modern and, consequently, less controlled, winemaking conditions of the past, occasionally the result would be Recioto Scapa. If the wine didn’t stop fermenting, it became dry instead of sweet since all of the sugar had been converted into alcohol. Thus, Amarone was originally called Recioto Secco (dry). Taking its name from the word for bitter  – amar – Amarone became the official term for this style of wine as of 1936.

And, sitting somewhere in between Valpolicella and Amarone is Ripasso – translating as one more pass. In this process, Valpolicella wine is added to the leftover Amarone pomace, prompting fermentation to start again, creating wines with higher alcohol, more extraction, fuller body and greater concentrations of  phenolics and sweetness.

Please come and drink a cup of wine
With this wide range of wines under the Valpolicella name, there is a lot of diversity and opportunity to find the perfect wine for the right occasion. During the Master Class, we tasted the full complement of these wines, which provided a wonderful introduction to each wine/style. Some are more suited to casual cuisine, while the beautifully balanced sweetness of Recioto is great with (or instead of) dessert.

TASTING NOTES

Sartori Di Verona Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore 2015
Sartori di Verona is situated in the Negar area, with 50 hectares of vineyards. This wine sees no oak and is more about simple fruit flavors than complexity. It is dry with high acidity, medium tannins and flavors of cherries and a slight herbal note, culminating in long length. With its lively acidity, this is a great match for calamari or pasta pomodoro.

Novaia, Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore 2016 I Cantoni
This tiny producer has 7 hectares and its vineyards are certified organic. There is some volcanic presence in the soils and a small percentage of dried grapes are incorporated into the wine. Compared to the Sartori di Verona Valpolicella (above), this wine is more concentrated, with riper cherry fruit and more noticeable herbal character. It also displayed greater minerality, a fuller body, slightly lower acidity, lovely tannins and longer length.

Villa Mattielli, Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG 2015
Villa Mattielli is owned by Roberta Roncolato and her husband, Giacomo, a former F1 pilot. Roberta takes a modern approach to her winemaking, crafting robust wines, which are aged in French oak. This dry, full-bodied wine offered up lots of ripe black fruit, blueberries, dried fruit, a hint of oak and long length.  

Secondo Marco, Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2011
This winery’s name literally translates to according to Marco – in this case the wine is made according to owner Marco Speri.  The grapes spent 150 days of drying and then went through 45 days of fermentation and maceration, followed by 48 months aging in big Slavonian oak. It is very floral with aromas of rose and violets, as well as gunflint. On the full-bodied palate, it shows flavors of blueberry, blackberry, citrus, and an undercurrent of menthol. Overall, it is hedonistic, sensual, with a ripe sweetness, balanced with good acidity, culminating in very long length.

Villa San Carlo, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Superiore 2013
Home to a beautiful Venetian villa, Villa San Carlo was purchased by the Pavesi family in 1958. While they planted vineyards early on, they only chose to begin making their own wine in 2009. The oak aged wine offers up smokey, barbecue, earthy, mushroom and black fruit aromas, which persist on the dry, medium+-bodied palate. It has high acidity, good tannins and lush fruit and spice flavors. While not as complex as the Amarone, it provides good value for the money and is lower in alcohol.

Degani, Recioto Della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2016
Located in the Classico valley, the three Degani brothers took over after their uncle’s death, maintaining the vineyards and winery as a family business.  This wine offers up a complex and intense nose of dried fruit, prunes, raisins, burnt sugar, smoke and spice. It is medium sweet with high acidity, full body, yet is elegant, balanced, and beautiful with a fruit-driven palate along with hints of cocoa in the finish and long length. Filippo suggested pairing it with brownies with cranberries.

Looking for Affordable Burgundy Bottles? Look to Elden Selections for holiday pours and gifts.

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I recently taught a wine class for the IWAGY wine club in Poughkeepsie, NY titled, “Affordable Southern Burgundy: Great Wines that Won’t Break the Bank.” While the presentation was primarily designed to introduce the audience to the lesser-known Burgundian districts of the Macon and the Cote Chalonnaise, they were eager to know about affordability.

Why? Well, it should come as no surprise to ardent wine lovers that Burgundy is often price prohibitive. As Ethan Fixell wrote in “The Hidden (Affordable) Gems of Burgundy” (1/2/2018), “There’s no gentle way to put this: Burgundy has become stupidly expensive.” And, in his NY Times article, “The Value of Burgundy, Regardless of the Price,” (May 9, 2019), Eric Asimov reinforced this sentiment, saying, “Speaking generally, Burgundy is nowadays the most coveted wine on the planet.[,]” citing the small production capacity and further noting, “The prices of Burgundy have shot upward in the last 20 years, to the point where the best wines are far beyond the means of most people.”

Asimov’s claims are backed by numbers: a Grand Cru Vineyard in the Cote d’Or that was valued at 7 million Euros in 2008 had jumped to 14 million Euros in 2018. And regional vineyards, though much cheaper (70,500 Euros/ha in 2017) are still not a bargain.

These exorbitant real estate prices, coupled with scant quantities – Burgundy production accounts for only 8.6% of all French AOP (quality) wine, 4.1% of all French production overall and only 0.6% of world production – means that it is challenging to find reasonably priced wines from the region. (Source: Vins de Bourgogne)

Burgundy has been producing wine for centuries, with its vignerons honing their craft and truly understanding the nuances of the region’s soils, climate and vineyards. Principally planted to Chardonnay (51%) and Pinot Noir (41%), these wines have become the benchmark for all others of these varieties and, not surprisingly, are highly regarded and sought after.

Yet, despite the dire outlook on overall affordability, it is possible to find more reasonably priced Burgundian wines if you know where to look. One place to check out is online e-tailer, Elden Selections. Founded in 1992 by Eleanor Garvin and Dennis Sherman, expats who have lived and worked in Burgundy for over 30 years, Elden Selections is a direct-to-consumer wine store focused almost exclusively on Burgundy. As such, it is unique in the U.S. and, equally important, they provide a wide range of Burgundian bottles from various appellations and price points within the region.

Elden offers a large selection of “everyday Burgundy” under $40.00 featuring regional and village level wines as well as those from smaller, hard to find appellations such as Irancy. And, in keeping with their desire to satisfy wine-drinking consumers, not wine collectors, the top priced wine is $300; not cheap by any means, but definitely more palatable than the staggering $1,500 or more per bottle that some rare wines can fetch.

Moreover, the wines are sourced from small quantity, minimal-intervention, farmer-made producers, rather than stocking wines from the large negociants. Having lived in the region for years, Eleanor and Dennis have strong relationships with the producers, tasting the wines multiple times to ensure quality.

Further, their site is easy to navigate, packed with educational information about the wines and their producers and permits consumers to purchase as few as one or as many wines as they wish. Case orders are shipped free of charge. Plus, they tout a no-questions-asked return policy (though, to date, no one has exercised this option).

Now is a great time to pick up a mixed case of Burgundy wines to serve with holiday dinners or to give as gifts.

Ferraton’s La Matiniere offers up quality and excellence in the glass

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I have been blessed to have a wide range of wonderful wines in my glass lately, reflecting the diverse array of wines in the world. One wine in particular that stood out is Ferraton Pere & Fils La Matiniere Crozes-Hermitage.

A midway point between Côtes du Rhone and Côte Rôtie in terms of budget, Crozes-Hermitages is a fabulous option when looking to the Rhone Valley. As the Northern Rhône’s largest appellation, it produces 6 to 7 million bottles annually, under similar climatic conditions to nearby Hermitage, featuring the Syrah grape.

Ferraton Père & Fils was founded by Jean Orens Ferraton in 1946. Today, his son Michel serves as winemaker, having inherited the winery from his father. During the 1960s, Michel bought up prime parcels of land, enlarging the estate’s holdings. The company committed to farming biodynamically in 1998 and continues to pursue this approach currently. Not surprising, Ferraton initially established its reputation as a quality producer of estate-bottled wines, but it also serves as a well-regarded négociant, buying up top grapes from local vineyards.

The La Matinière (which translates as early bird) Crozes-Hermitage is named for Michel’s wife, Colette, who is an early riser, and is produced solely from Syrah. The wine is aged for 12 months in oak barrels before being bottled.

TASTING NOTE
Ferraton Père & Fils La Matinière Crozes-Hermitage 2017, Rhone Valley, France, $26.00
Aromas of black cherry, blackberry, sage, dried herbs and a hint of earth greet the nose. The dry palate displays high acidity, medium+ body, and flavors of earth, black cherry, dried herbs, slight woody note and iodine, with long length. This wine offers great value and a spectacular experience.

Rediscovering Harveys Bristol Cream

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I have been blessed to have a wide range of wonderful wines grace my glass lately, reflecting the diverse array of wines in the world. One wine that particularly stood out is Harvey’s Bristol Cream Sherry.

I first enjoyed a glass of this medium-sweet Sherry while having high tea at the Empress Hotel on Victoria Island off the coast of Vancouver. It was a lovely treat and added to the experience, but not something I think about often. But the opportunity to renew my acquaintance with the class was welcomed as I discovered its equal affinity for cheese and chocolate.

While the name might be confusing, the reference to “cream” is simply based on the wine’s full-bodied, creaminess; it is, rather, a Sherry, not a cream liquor. The wine was first developed in 1882, blending four different styles of Sherry, which were aged from 3 to 20 years in a solera (a fractional-aging system).

This classic wine has recently received a make-over, sporting a new label that is not only modern in design, but also turns blue when the wine is properly (50-55oF) chilled. At 17.5% alcohol by volume, which is typical for this style of fortified (i.e. Sherry, Port) wine, it is something that should be drunk in smaller quantities than non-fortified wines. However, an opened bottle will easily last for up to a month if kept in the refrigerator

This is a great wine to serve for holiday gatherings, pairing well with pumpkin pie and holiday cookies as well as with salty/savory foods such as unctuous cheeses and charcuterie platters.

TASTING NOTE
Harveys Bristol Cream Sherry, Jerez, Spain, $24.99
Deep amber in color, this wine offers up aromas of dried apricots, spice, candied orange, honey and a hint of nuttiness, all of which persist on the medium-sweet, yet balanced, full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.

Campania’s Sannio Wines Delight at Del Posto

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Although I am generally familiar with the wines of Italy’s Campania region, namely through visits to Feudi di San Gregorio and Mastroberadino, I had never heard of Sannio. Or, admittedly, if I had, it was likely memorized for a wine exam and then promptly forgotten. My mistake…and my misfortune for overlooking these wines.

Thankfully the error of my ways has been rectified, thanks to a beautiful introduction to these wines back in October. We were welcomed to a sumptuous lunch at Del Posto restaurant by Consorzio President, Dr. Libero Rillo, who provided some background on this tiny territory in the province of Benevento. But, despite its small size (~10,000 hectares), it is important to the Campania region. Here, the emphasis is on the indigenous grape varieties of Aglianico, Falanghina and others.

The Consorzio itself dates in 1999 and comprises 400 members. It overseas several denominations including Aglianico del Taburno DOCG, which produces red or rose wines, Falanghina del Sannio DOP, which is restricted to white and sparkling as well as the Sannio DOP which offers a full range of styles. An IGP Benevento or Beneventano also exists. 

The 10,000 hectares are allocated among nearly 10,000 wineries, including two cooperatives. Most are small and medium in size, producing a total of 25 million bottles annually among the IGT, DOC and DOCG designations. However, the consorzio is eager to increase its production, especially at the quality levels.

Attendees at the aforementioned press luncheon has the opportunity to explore the two vaunted denominations: Falanghina Sannio DOC and Aglianico del Tabruno DOCG, under the tutelage of Somm In the City, Sara Lehman. While the Falanghina grape has ancient roots, its name has much more modern origins thanks to the trellis poles aka “falanga” that were used to support the vines. The wine received its DOP status in 2013, and is known for its minerality, good acidity, and ability to age for 10-15 years, during which time it develops complexity. These grapes must be sourced from the hillsides where there is some elevation, which helps to avoid the humidity found on the valley floor.

The Aglianico del Tabruno DOCG harkens back to the Greeks who came to the area centuries ago, settling near Mt. Taburno. The wine’s DOCG status was bestowed in 2011 and comprises both red and rose wines. The rose, which doesn’t require any aging, is currently the only Italian rose to hold this designation level. The reds must be aged for a minimum of two years in wood and bottle, with the Riservas aged for three years in wood and another 12 months in bottle. These are powerful, tannic wines with complexity and good aging potential, known for aromas of blackberry, plum, violet and black pepper.

WHITE WINE TASTING NOTES
I deliberately limited my consumption of the Falanghinas knowing that we were going to taste a lot of reds with the seated lunch (we tasted 13 and I’ve included my notes on my 8 favorites). Accordingly, I limited my tasting to the sparkling Falanghina del Sannio DOP – V.S.Q. Brut from Cantina di Solopaca, which is one of the oldest co-ops in the area, with grapes sourced from the slopes of Mt. Taburno. It was refreshing, with good acidity and nice fruit aromas and flavors.

I also tasted the Mustilli Vigna Segreta Falanghina 2016, a wine produced from a cru vineyard known for its volcanic and limestone soils. It was rich and concentrated with good minerality and long length.

RED WINE TASTING NOTES
2018 Elena Catalano Sannio Aglianico 2018, Italy
This wine, produced solely in stainless steel, was youthful, with robust red and black fruit, firm tannins and good length.

Fattoria la Rivolta Pediarosso Taburno Sannio DOP 2018, Italy
Made from hand-harvested grapes grown on clay and volcanic soil, this wine offered up bright red fruit, lovely freshness and notes of pepper that lingered in the finish.

Cantina di Solopaca Barbera 2017, Italy
This wine is produced from 20 year old vines grown on clay and limestone soils on the slopes of Mt. Taberno, It offers up a very earthy nose, with a clay undercurrent and red fruit aromas and flavors.
  
Cautiero Sannio DOC Aglianico 2016, Italy
After moving to the city as adults, the winery’s owners returned to the countryside to pursue their love of wine and the land, choosing to focus on organic farming. The wine is tight and needs time, but displays nice black fruit and long length.

Terre Stregate Manent Sannio Aglianico 2016, Italy
This is a beautiful and balanced wine with lovely aromas and flavors of red fruit, earth and herbs, along with good structure. It spent 6-8 months aging in barriques.

Azienda Agricola Scompiglio Barbera del Sannio 2016, Italy
Lush and gorgeous on the nose and palate, this Barbera was floral in character with blueberry and blackcherry notes, lingering in the long length.

Azienda Agricola Castelle Aglianico Riserva 2015, Italy
As a Riserva-level wine, it spent the minimum three years aging in oak. It was lovely, yet tannic and will be better in time.
 
Torre del Pagus Aglianico Taburno DOCG 2013, Italy
This wine spent 12 months in oak, with another year aging in bottle before release. It was  elegant, with good structure and lots of red fruit notes.


My Heart Belongs to Sicily and its Wines

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Sicily will always have a cherished place in my heart. I visited the Italian region in 2013 and spent a week crisscrossing the island, learning its history and immersing myself in its wine culture. At the end of my visit, I found myself at Palermo Airport crying…and I wasn’t even heading home; I still had another two weeks in Italy before I returned to the U.S.!

Something about the magical week struck me hard and stuck with me. A Siren song, perhaps? In truth, Sicily is more associated with other mythical creatures than the sirens, but regardless, I was thankfully lulled to its vinous pleasures not to my untimely death.

Since that visit, I have been thrilled to watch Sicily’s dedication to improving excellence in its wine production. Under the leadership of Antonio Rallo president of Wines of Sicilia DOC (and agronomist and winemaker for his family’s Donnafugata winery), the region has seen the creation of the Sicilia DOC category, increasing the quality level and prominence of Sicilian wines.

Accordingly, well-established wineries have risen to the challenge, elevating their wines with an eye toward innovation, yet maintaining tradition. In this regard, they remain true to their culture and heritage with an emphasis on local varieties such as Grillo, Nero d’Avola and Frappato, grapes which have been cultivated in the area for centuries.

More specifically, the modern winery at Stemmari was built to reflect the rural architectural structure known as the baglio. Similarly, Baglio di Pianetto has embraced environmental sustainability and adopted organic farming practices while the ancient feudal domain of Feudo Principi di Butera once belonged to Sicily’s first prince (Ambrogio Branciforte), but has been restored by the well-known Zonin family. And all three producers respect and understand the various terroirs of the island region.

TASTING NOTES
Baglio di Pianetto Timeo Grillo 2018, Sicilia DOC, Italy, $13.00
Lovely notes of musk, minerality and wax greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is dry, with fresh acidity and medium body. It is more structured and less fruit focused, showing notes of pear and citrus, with elegance and long length.

Stemmari Cantodoro Rosso Riserva 2014, Sicilia DOC, Italy, $14.00
A blend of 80% Nero dA’Avola and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this rich and concentrated red wine features aromas of plums and earth. The dry palate offers up medium+ acidity, medium+ body, light tannins, and shows some development, with long length.

Feudo Principi di Butera Deliella Nero d’Avola 2014, Sicila DOC, Italy, $90.00
This wine is among the three esteemed cru level wines produced by Feudo Principi di Butera. It is a 100% Nero d’Avola from a single vineyard Deliella, named for the local district. The full-bodied wine is elegant with bright acidity, beautiful red fruit aromas and flavors, slight herbal characteristics on the nose and palate, which linger in the very long length.

Loire Valley Reds: Of Castles, Kings and Cabernet Franc

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As a former playground for the Kings of France, the Loire Valley is awash in luxurious castles, but it is equally awash in wonderful wine! Here, grapes have been grown for centuries, dating to the Romans who first planted in the Pays Nantais. Yet it wasn’t until the 5th century that things really got started with some of the earliest mentions of the area’s vineyards made in 528 by Gregoire of Tours in which he cited those in Sancerre and Touraine.

Later, the Loire’s viticultural heritage was squarely in the hands of the church, strongly influenced by both the Augustine and Benedictine monks who understood not only how to make great wine but also how to communicate about and distribute the wines. In this regard, they took full advantage of the local rivers’ safer travel (compared with the roads).

The region’s wine acclaim was further boosted by Henry II Plantagenet, Count of Anjou, when he became king of England in 1154 and permitted only Anjou wines to be served at court (it’s good to be king!), a custom continued by his successors, John Lackland and Henry III.

Today, while often known for its aromatic whites, the Loire Valley is also very adept at crafting high quality reds, namely from Pinot Noir, Gamay and Cabernet Franc. These grapes and others typically deliver fresh, fruity, food-friendly options and should be easily found in your local wine store.

Need some inspiration? Befitting the region’s long and illustrious history, these three wines beautifully illustrate the elegance and ease that the reds of the Loire Valley provide.

Hippolyte Reverdy 
It’s possible that the Hippolyte Reverdy family has made wine as far back as 1600, but it wasn’t until the end of World War II that they began to increase their production, eventually bottling greater and greater quantities under their own label and no longer selling their grapes to the local coopérative. The winery is presently in the hands of Michel Reverdy who joined in his family’s estate in 1971.

Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre Rouge 2016, Loire Valley, France
Sourced from 30-year old Pinot Noir vines, this wine displays aromas of berries, cherries and dried herbs. The light-bodied palate is really nice, with fruit-driven cherry flavors, a slightly rustic character, along with an earthy/herbal undercurrent in the long finish.

Domaine du Petit Clocher
Presently managed by the fourth successive generation, this estate has grown from 5 to 80 hectares over 50 years. Yet, it remains true to its roots, favoring traditional wine making practices.

Domaine du Petit Clocher, Anjou 2016, Loire Valley, France
This 100% Cabernet Franc offers up wet leaves, dried herbs. The dry palate displays medium+ acidity, medium to full body, grainy, textural tannins, raspberry, herbaceous notes and long length.

Chateau de Coulaine
This family-owned winery has been operating continuously since 1300! Etienne de Bonnaventure has been at the helm of viticulture and winemaking responsibilities since 1988 and was joined by his son, Jean, in 2014. The 12-hectare estate is planted exclusively to Cabernet Franc, with the vineyards farmed organically.

Chateau de Coulaine Chinon 2017, Loire Valley, France
A beautiful nose of mulberry, blueberry and cranberry gives way to wet leaves, with a textural palate of medium, ripe tannins, medium+ body, high acidity, oak and leafy flavors and long length.

The Wonderful Wines of Domane Wachau

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On what was a long overdue visit to the U.S. (and only his first time in New York), Domane Wachau’s winemaker Heinz Frischengruber poured a collection of his wines for the media at Aureole restaurant. Owned by 250 families, the Domane Wachau estate is located in Austria’s highly esteemed Wachau wine region, which is an UNESCO heritage site for both its natural beauty and its culture. Viticulturally, the region is known for its cool climate, diverse soils, river influence and abundant sunshine.

Originally born and raised in the region, Heinz has been at Domane Wachau for fifteen years and has become an integral part of the team, focusing his quality efforts on viticulture and traditional winemaking techniques. Heinz’ family is also in the wine industry (his brother currently runs the family business), so he grew up with wine in his blood (or at least in his backyard).

Before arriving at Domane Wachau, Heinz previously worked in Germany, gaining experience at Geisenheim and also studied overseas as well to build his knowledge base. But, he had always wanted to work at Domane Wachau, which is very well known and respected in the area. Its 1,000 hectares are considered to be the best terroir in the region, many of which are situated directly on the Danube.  Here, the steeply terraced vineyards must be worked by hand; in fact, one-fifth of the vineyards are not accessible by tractor due to the vertical nature of the terrain. In recognition for the challenges inherent in maintaining such vineyards, an association has been created to save the terraced vineyards for the next generation.

With the region’s mosaic of different soil types, microclimates, higher and lower altitudes, Heinz loves to play with single vineyards. In this regard, he noted, “You have to know your soils,” in determining which style of wine to make. Further, he understands his grape varieties, explaining that Riesling can adapt even better than Gruner Veltliner, calling Gruner a luxury variety due to its heightened need for water. Yet, it, too, can be grown on a variety of different soils, producing a versatility in wine styles, attributing marked spiciness in the variety when grown on terraced vineyards and stone fruit with a rounder, fatty profile when grown on loess soils.

In the vineyards, there is a strong commitment to sustainable agriculture and biodiversity. When asked about climate change, Heinz reported that there has been significantly less rainfall and the occasional crazy high temperatures (greater than 35o C) in recent years. Accordingly, canopy management is more important than ever to shade the grapes, retain acidity and avoid burning.

Once the grapes are in the winery, Heinz declares, “I’m a caretaker, not a winemaker.” A big fan of traditional winemaking, he prefers to utilize skin contact to produce fresh, elegant and spicy (read a peppery note – similar to the pyrazines found in Sauvignon Blanc) in his Gruner Veltliners. This skin contact also gives some tannic grip that adds to the complexity of the wines.

As we tasted through a collection of wines at lunch, it was clear that these were well-made, elegant and concentrated wines that provided beauty, balance and bang for your buck. In other words, they were simply wonderful!

TASTING NOTES

Domane Wachau Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen 2018 – $18.00
Grown on steep terraced vineyards, this entry-level Gruner Veltliner offers up citrus and minerality on the nose. On the dry, medium-to-full bodied palate, it is rich and mineral on the palate with good acidity, stone fruit, peach pit and very long length.

Domane Wachau Riesling Federspiel Terrassen 2018 – $20.00
From the same entry-level line, the Riesling was more aromatic, with pronounced aromas of peaches, apricot, exotic fruit, pineapple, spiciness, flinty, and a hint of black pepper, which Heinz attributed to the soil. It was more concentrated, fuller-bodied and richer than a German Riesling, with medium acidity and long length.
Domane Wachau Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Ried Liebenberg 2018 – $25.00
Produced from the Ried Liebenberg single vineyard, which consists of very steep terraces and poor sandy soils, this wine offers up concentrated stone and mineral aromas. It was dry, but with riper fruit than the Terrassen GV, with apricot, stone, slight spice, displaying a structured, more terroir driven wine, with medium acidity, medium body and culminating in long length.

Domane Wachau Riesling Federspiel Ried Bruck 2018 – $25.00
Sourced from the winery’s coolest area, with grapes grown on south facing slopes, the Ried Bruck single vineyard Riesling greets the nose with white peaches, mandarin oranges, and marzipan. It had higher acidity than the Gruner Veltliner, with notes of smoke, petrol and wet stone on the long finish.

Domane Wachau Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten 2016 – $46.00
We finished the meal with the outstanding Achleiten, a very steep single vineyard made up of dark stones and flinty soils that fades right into the Danube. The resulting wine was well structured with good aging potential, dominated by peach and mineral aromas and flavors. The fresh palate was concentrated with long length and sufficient body and complexity to pair with heavier dishes such as duck or beef.

NB: Established in 1983, Vinea Wachau celebrates wines of provenance made only from Wachau grapes. There are three different (and hierarchal) style categories ranging from lightest to the most concentrated, each represented visually by an Austrian symbol to reflect the unique style and heritage of each wine.

Steinfeder: Feather
Lightest in style, with a maximum alcohol by volume (abv) of 11.5%.

Federspiel: Falcon
Medium bodied, with an abv of 12-12.5% abv, always fermented dry, elegant

Smaragd: Lizard
This highest category is reserved for dry, concentrated and complex wines, made from very ripe/late harvest grapes sourced from the best vineyards and fermented dry.

Who Runs the (Wine) World: Susana Balbo, Wines of Sicily and the Women in Australian Wine Awards makes the answer abundantly clear

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A flurry of events featuring the women of wine kicked off the season’s return after the summer hiatus. Admittedly, women in wine is both new and nothing new. As they say, behind every great man is a great woman. But, perhaps the more novel news is that women are now standing (in) front and center of (or at least next to) many men in the vineyards and wineries the world over.

While I missed it due to ill health, the Women in Australian Wine Awards honored the women who have made their mark in Australian wine. The world’s “first and only awards platform for women in wine,” was held on September 17 in New York.

Similarly, an event earlier in the month presented a wide range of Wines of Sicily, recognizing the women in this region. I had the opportunity to meet Lilly Ferro Fazio, Export Manager of Casa Vinicola Fazio, who shared her experiences in bringing together the women of her region and noting the challenges they faced amidst a very traditional/male-dominated society. She addressed the need to find support and resources to successfully manage both her job and the family household because her husband still expects her to fulfill a traditional spousal role in addition to her career.

Another wine woman bucking the trend of being a simple, stay-at-home mom, is Argentine winemaker, Susana Balbo who initially applied to study nuclear physics in Bariloche. Her parents would not permit her to leave Mendoza, but, not one to be deterred, she eventually became the first woman in Argentina to earn a degree in enology. By 2012 she had been named as one of the “Most influential women wine-makers” by The Drink Business magazine, and, six years later, was listed among “The 10 most influential women in the wine world” in the same publication.

Today, Susana Balbo produces wines in both Mendoza and Salta regions. Her wines are well respected and can be found in the market under two labels: her namesake Susana Balbo and her Crios line. The Crios portfolio recently underwent a makeover, sporting new packaging that emphasizes the wines’ elegance and classic nature. Available in four different varietal options, the wines were recently released in the New York market.

Crios Torrontes 2018, Cafayate (Salta) and Valle de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00
Pronounced nose with floral, tropical fruit, hint of cotton candy and a dry, yet ripe, palate with medium-to-full body, medium acidity and long length.

Crios Rose 2018 of Malbec, Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00
Notes of strawberry, cherry and watermelon greet the nose. The palate is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, culminating in long length.

Crios Malbec 2018 Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00
Deep in color, this wine displays fresh and dried herbs and blackberry aromas, which are joined by spice and red fruit flavors on the dry, full-bodied palate, with good length.

Crios Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Vallee de Uco (Mendoza), Argentina, $15.00
The nose offers up lovely red and black fruit, which persist on the dry, full-bodied palate, with textural tannins, blackberry, black cherry, oak, with good acidity and long length.

Alto Adige: Where the Hills Are Alive with the Sound of Viticulture

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Upon arrival in the Italian region of Alto Adige, the scenery and topography make a powerful statement. Greeted by snow-topped peaks, verdant mountains and Swiss chalet-style architecture, you would half expect Julie Andrews to suddenly appear and belt out songs from the Sound of Music. This northern-most province borders both Austria and Switzerland and was under Austrian rule until 1919. And, to this day, both Italian and a dialect of German are the official languages, with over two-thirds of the population speaking German as their native tongue.

Rather, instead of hearing from Julie or the von Trapp family, the hills of South Tyrol (Südtirol) are alive with the sound of viticulture. And, despite its limited size (when considered separate from Trentino, Alto Adige is the smallest of Italy’s 20 regions), 98% of its production is at the Protected Designation of Origin level – the most of any Italian region!

With the Dolomites to the East and the Alps to the north, these mountain ranges shelter the area from the cold forces of the North and trap air from the lakes and limit the annual rainfall, resulting in 300 sunny days per year. Conversely, the strong Ora winds coming off nearby Lake Garda help to temper the summer heat. Given this duality of cooling and warming influences, Alto Adige is home to both Mediterranean and Alpine botany along with vineyards and apple orchards.

Not surprisingly, given these climatic conditions, the region is highly regarded for its white wines, which account for 60% of regional production. However, it also boasts some spectacular reds as well. In general, the steep slopes at the highest elevations (820 to 2800 feet) are given over to white varieties, while the lower, rolling hills are planted to reds. The high-altitude vineyards benefit especially from the area’s wide diurnal shift, permitting the grapes to ripen fully, while retaining high levels of acidity. Moreover, the region’s diverse soils, which include limestone, quartz and volcanic porphyry, further retain acidity and add minerality to the wines.

Wine glasses are given over to over 20 different varieties, with many indigenous grapes taking center stage. In addition to Pinot Grigio and Gewurztraminer, the white Kerner, an aromatic hybrid of Trollinger and Riesling, has been widely grown in the area. Among the reds, Lagrein, a descendant of Teroldego has strong roots in Bolzano and stands out for its tannic structure.
 
Beyond the glass, the mix of German and Italian cultures extends to the kitchen where speck, knödel dumplings, brown breads and fruit strudels make their way to the plate. But, regardless of what you have on your plate, these two wines should be equally welcome in your home.

Strasserhof Kerner 2017 Valle Isarco Alto Adige, Italy
This wine offers up a limited fruit profile on the nose and palate, but makes up for it in fresh acidity, beautiful minerality, lean body and long length.

Castelfeder Burgum Novum Lagrein Riserva 2014, Alto Adige, Italy
Inky, deep ruby in color, this wine displayed a brooding, intense nose of wet leaves, plum and dried red fruit, giving way to a dry, full-bodied palate, with bright acidity, medium+ ripe and resolved tannins, and long length with a smoky finish.