Category Archives: Wine

JBF Chefs and Champagne – Out of the kitchen, but still in the heat

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Martha Stewart, Emeril Lagasse, Pascal and Susan Ungaro

It was hot or, perhaps more accurately, as Matthew Broderick quipped in Biloxi Blues, “It was Africa hot.” Of course, that would be acceptable if we were in Africa, but as we were in The Hamptons, it was less so. Much less so. But despite the record-breaking heat index, chefs and event goers soldiered on and had a wonderful time at The James Beard Foundation (JBF)’s annual Chefs & Champagne event.

Arriving early, we availed ourselves of the Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d’Or 1999 and, glass in hand, set off in search of the best bites. We kicked it off with Richard Grenamyer of Jacksonville, FL’s The Blue Fish Restaurant and Oyster Bar. His soy and ginger-glazed tuna with wakame and wasabi cream provided a touch of heat, which went beautifully with the Champagne as did Marc Forgione’s Chile lobster with local corn and lemon verbena.

Among the notable chefs and their corresponding cuisine was Shea Gallante of Ciano with his yellow Basinga tomato gazpacho soup with Maine lobster, watermelon and basil. This dish was amazingly tasty and refreshing, providing welcome respite in the heat. I asked him if he had consulted the Farmer’s Almanac before submitting his menu, but he explained that previous experiences with these types of events had taught him to stick to cold food.

Perhaps braver for braving the heat, John Doherty, formerly with the Waldorf=Astoria and now ambassador for Certified Angus Beef, offered prime steak and eggs, but didn’t seem too wilted at the grill.

Pitching in to help colleague Spencer Minch (Emeril’s Delmonico), event honoree Emeril Lagasse himself handed me a plate of gulf white shrimp with traditional rémoulade.

Another JBF Award Winner, Marcus Samuelsson (Blue Parrot and Red Rooster) doled out chilled corn soup with marinated bass and tomatillo-cilantro purée, which was a definite crowd pleaser.

A few pastry chefs were also on hand, including Jennifer McCoy of Craft, whose olive oil cake with raspberry-lavender jam was the perfect ending to the evening, with its lightness and combination of savory and sweet.

As part of The James Beard Foundation’s scholarship fundraising event, three scholarships were awarded to local students, including the Christian Wölffer Scholarship, particularly poignant since the event was held at the eponymous winery in Sagaponak, NY. Next year, the JBF will offer a $5,000 scholarship in Emeril’s name.

The Torrontés Project

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Argentina has distinguished itself with not just one, but two signature grape varieties – Malbec and Torrontés. The latter is primarily grown in northern Argentina, with the Cafayate appellation, within the province of Salta, being among the most highly regarded area for production. Generally planted at high altitudes in the Andes Mountains, the grapes receive full sun during the day, while the cooler nights permit the grapes to retain vibrant acidity. Highly aromatic, these fresh, unoaked whites offer floral and fruit aromas that pair well with lightly-spiced Asian cuisine, summer salads and fish.

A blind tasting, affectionately referred to as the Torrontés Project, placed the Terrazas de los Andes Reserva Torrontés 2010 (SRP $15.00) in the company of Xavier Flouret Flaca 2009 (SRP $16.00). Despite being from the same appellation and having been produced in a similar method (stainless steel fermentation), the two wines displayed marked differences.

The Flaca had pronounced floral, spice and tropical fruit notes on the nose, which persisted on the palate. With its medium+ acidity and medium+ body, the wine was bold, but balanced.

The Terrazas wine was paler in color, with less overt aromas consisting of floral and peach, coupled with candied citrus on the palate. Higher in acidity and slightly lighter in body, this wine was more restrained.

A Fresh Look at Frascati

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Fontana Candida's winemaker, Mauro Merz

Long the ambassador for Italian wines, Frascati adopted a low profile as a light-bodied quaffer – easy to drink, but just as easily dismissed. However, when the focus shifts to providing a product that is, above and beyond, authentic and of the highest quality, this is a wine that can also offer a refreshing surprise.

Named for the town of Frascati within Lazio and proximate to Rome, the Frascati DOC was the first one established back in 1966. This traditional wine is a white blend comprised primarily of Malvasia de Lazio and/or Malvasia di Candia, along with Trebbiano Toscano, Trebbiano Gialla, Greco, Bombino (and somewhat more controversial, up to 10% of aromatic, international varieties, ie. Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc).

The leader in this region, Fontana Candida, believes that wine must bring joy; be made naturally; and be an expression of its place. With this philosophy in mind, the company continues to work on improving brand Frascati for both itself and the region at large. To that end, they hired an agronomist and offered his services free of charge to the local growers – small, family farms.

While the motive was admittedly selfish — they wanted to source better fruit — growers who bought into these changes have reaped the rewards of Fontana Candida’s largesse. Not only did they receive the free consultation, but now also earn significantly more for their grapes when selling to Fontana Candida. Moreover, at a time when the delimited area is shrinking due to Rome’s urbanization projects and an overall decline in grape prices, Fontana Candida has committed to maintaining its higher prices, paying up to 40% over the base in incentives.

The resulting wines show off the quality of vineyard work coupled with the true expression of tradition and terroir. The flagship Fontana Candida Frascati Superiore DOC (SRP $10.00) is fresh and fruity, but with the weight to stand up to food. And, of particular interest, they are capable of aging.

No really. A mini-vertical of their Vigneto Santa Teresa Frascati Superiore 1997, 2001 and 2004 wines proved the point in spades. Winemaker Mauro Merz stresses that the wines will not necessarily improve with time, they will evolve and last. With a certain gravitas, these wines displayed both elegance and depth. Whereas the young wine displayed fresher notes of green apple and a slightly savory aspect, the older wines showed honey, bruised fruit (pear and apple) and dried herbs. The most mature (1997) showed signs of age with a slightly oxidative character on the nose, but was still enjoyable with its palate cleaner than its nose.

Equally delightful were the producer’s Luna Mater wines (SRP $23.00). First produced in 2008 in celebration of Fontana Candida’s 50th anniversary, the wine is made with select lots from older vines averaging 50 years and aged in large Acacia wood casks (which was selected for its ability to bring out the best characteristics of Malvasia grape). However, the intention is not to dominate the wine with wood. Rather, the aging extracts the wood tannins, lending structure and longevity to the finished wines, the former of which was evident upon tasting these wines as were aromas and flavors of pear and almond.

With its motto “Quality above all,” it is clear that Fontana Candida is producing wines of depth, elegance and richness that can be enjoyed in their youth as well as their more golden years. Either way, the wines offered a fresh look at old faithful Frascati.

Navarra: Ancient Kingdom of Modern Wines

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Our mother made the pimentos, she tells us. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we sit outside under the shade of an arbor on a sun-filled summer’s day. An enormous feast is suddenly set before us – salad, sausages, tortillas, jamon, pimentos, cheese, while bottles of wine, tasted earlier at the Ochoa winery, stand at attention, ready to poured. We are joined by Adrianna, Beatriz and Pablo and are treated like dear old friends of the family.

A few days later, a modern box suspended high above the vineyards serves as the site for lunch. Javier points out the Otazu winery and other buildings on the estate from this vantage point. Juxtaposed, the two scenes seem unlinked, but, in fact, they are indicative of Navarra’s dichotomy of old and new co-existing throughout the region.

Two wolves adorn the Ochoa crest, the Basque word for which is ochoa. The family can trace its winemaking roots to a document dated 1370 in which Queen Juana (Carlos II’s wife) orders payment to wine merchant, Ochoa de Ayanz. Several towns away, in Ujué, a mural in a Romanesque church features a similar crest, almost as further evidence of the Ochoa heritage. Stretching back farther to the Romans, Navarra has been at the crossroads of many cultures for centuries. At Villa Romana de Arellano, the dolias unearthed by a farmer show that wine was an important product from the very beginning.

More currently, Ochoa has played a pivotal role in Navarra’s wine industry with Javier Ochoa’s role in establishing EVENA (Navarra Viticulture and Oenology Station). Continuing the family’s winemaking legacy, daughter Adriana recently took over as head winemaker and sister, Beatriz, handles marketing and sales. Reflective of Navarra’s international outlook, Adriana studied viticulture and enology in Bordeaux, France and worked the harvest in Australia before taking the reins from dad.

This duality of tradition and modernity can be seen over and over again in different forms. When we arrive, the town of Puente la Reina is bustling with activity – people sit outside in cafes and bars enjoying tapas and other treats in the summer’s afternoon. A veritable tower of Babel, a mix of languages and accents are heard as we catch snippets of conversations when we pass by. The year is 2011, but we would have found a nearly identical scene had it been 1211. Situated along the Camino de Santiago, Puente la Reina, in the heart of Navarra, is just one of the many towns that were built to provide the pilgrims with food and shelter as they made their way to Santiago de Campostela, bringing their customs and cultures as they passed through.

Further down the road, the well-worn and well-signed path snakes its way past a medieval castle at Castillo Monjardin. The castle and its eponymous winery are presided over by Sonia and her husband, Victor. While not part of Spain’s monarchy, there is a royal air about the place, which recalls Navarra’s history as a separate kingdom (maintaining its independence until it succumbed to the Castilian empire in 1512).  Planted to Chardonnay, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, their vineyards underscore Navarra’s link to France. In fact, the Compte de Champagne, Theobald, also held the title of King of Navarra.

Similarly, at Otazu, Javier leads us through the ancient cellars, stopping to point out an alter that dates to the 14th century. After walking the long corridor, we turn to our right and are confronted by a set of glass doors that serve as the entrance to the new barrel room. Though just steps away, we are suddenly transported seven centuries to what is best described as a modern temple truly dedicated to Bacchus, with 1,000+ French oak barrels resting under the vaulted ceiling.

Nearby, St. Martin de Unx’s winemaker proudly professes the winery’s commitment to Spanish varieties: Garnacha, Tempranillo and Viura. While the co-op sticks to traditional grapes, it is experimenting with Navarran oak, grown in local forests, and, as he is quick to point out, are the only ones to be conducting such trials, another point of pride. In a nod to the future, the winery also created a semi-sweet rosé to appeal to the younger generation of Spaniards who crave Coke® instead of wine.

Testing is also alive and well at Inurrieta, which planted Sauvignon Blanc before it became an authorized grape for the DO. Now, its two Sauvignon Blancs garner critical acclaim.

Produced from both native and international grape varieties, Navarra’s wines speak to the history and tradition of the region, while making room for what is to come. However, what is most striking about these wines is their quality. In tasting one after another, there was concentration, complexity and beautiful balance. Even more amazing, when inquiring about retail prices, most wines fall under $20.00, with quite a few under $15.00.

With its long tenure of winemaking, international influences and openness to trying new things, Navarra’s wineries remain true to this heritage. What the future holds for Navarra is anyone’s guess, but it is sure to be focused on innovation, while being strongly anchored in the region’s culturally diverse past.

 

Tasting Notes

Inurrieta Orchidea Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Navarra, Spain, $10.00
While Sauvignon Blanc is newly authorized for the region, Inurrieta produces two, with the Orchidea its unwooded venture with this grape. Aromas of citrus and tropical fruit give way to high acidity, citrus, especially grapefruit, with a slight floral note. The sur lie treatment adds some roundness to the palate, which culminates in medium+ length.

Castillo de Monjardin Chardonnay Reserva 2007, Navarra, Spain, $19.00
Castillo de Monjardin is the only one producing a Reserva-level Chardonnay. Having been barrel fermented and aged in French oak, this wine provides notes of apple, spice, butterscotch and vanilla on the nose. Its palate is full-bodied with apple, lime, spice and slight oak flavors. Overall, this wine is complex, bright and creamy, with long length.

Ochoa Rosado Lágrima 2010, Navarra, Spain, $11.00
Navarra is well-known for its rosés (aka rosados) and with good reason. The more “serious” of Ochoa’s rosés, the Lágrima is comprised of 50% each of Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon, with deep pink hue. Floral and berry aromas persist on the palate, along with depth and structure due to the wine’s slight tannic grip, herbal character and long length.

Senorio de Unx Reserva 2004, Navarra, Spain, $20.00
Produced from 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnarcha, the Reserva spent 15 months in a combination of French and American oak. The nose offers dried herbs, floral, spice and raisin, while the palate emphasizes dried figs, red fruit and sweet spice. With its medium+ tannins, full body and long length, this wine could continue to age and develop with time.

Otazu Pago de Otazu 2006, Navarra, Spain, $32.00
The Pago designation, which supersedes the DOCa level, was added to Spain’s wine laws in 2006 and is only awarded to very best estates (to date, there are only 10 Vinos de Pago throughout all of Spain). A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Tempranillo, this wine displays wet earth, dried herbs, red fruit and cinnamon on the nose. The full-bodied palate has medium+ acidity, medium tannins with notes of red fruit and earth, which linger in the long length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Navarra – Ancient Kingdom of Modern Wines (July 2011)

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With summer in full swing, we hope you are taking advantage of the great weather and having fun!

While there are many fun activities taking place on the East End this season, consider attending the James Beard Foundation’s annual Chefs and Champagne. This star-studded event raises money for the foundation’s scholarships and will honor Emeril Lagasse. Featuring food from top toques (the chefs) and Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne, this gala celebration takes place at Wölffer Estate on Saturday, July 23, 2011. For more information, see the James Beard website.

Also, mark your calendar for the second annual HARVEST: Wine Auction and Celebration of Long Island’s East End, which will take place on September 17, 2011. Leading up to the big event, wine salons will be offered on September 3, 10 and 17, with Grand Cru Classes presenting a special Mad about Merlot session on September 10 at 11:00 AM.

Do chocolate and wine pair well together? Some say yes, some say no way! Settle the debate with our wine and chocolate tasting event on August 14. Roxanne Browning of Exotic Chocolate Tasting will share the world of artisanal chocolate from bean to bar, while Tracy will focus on the world of wine, with a delicious line-up of wines carefully selected to pair with Roxanne’s chocolates. Visit our website to sign up for this and all other classes.

Finally, we are also pleased to announce the Grand Cru Classes was featured in the first edition of CRAVE New York City – The Urban Girl’s Manifesto, which profiles local, women-owned businesses.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

Navarra: Ancient Kingdom of Modern Wines

Our mother made the pimentos, she tells us. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we sit outside under the shade of an arbor on a sun-filled summer’s day. An enormous feast is suddenly set before us – salad, sausages, tortillas, jamon, pimentos, cheese, while bottles of wine, tasted earlier at the Ochoa winery, stand at attention, ready to poured. We are joined by Adrianna, Beatriz and Pablo and are treated like dear old friends of the family.

A few days later, a modern box suspended high above the vineyards serves as the site for lunch. Javier points out the Otazu winery and other buildings on the estate from this vantage point. Juxtaposed, the two scenes seem unlinked, but, in fact, they are indicative of Navarra’s dichotomy of old and new co-existing throughout the region.

Two wolves adorn the Ochoa crest, the Basque word for which is ochoa. The family can trace its winemaking roots to a document dated 1370 in which Queen Juana (Carlos II’s wife) orders payment to wine merchant, Ochoa de Ayanz. Several towns away, in Ujué, a mural in a Romanesque church features a similar crest, almost as further evidence of the Ochoa heritage. Stretching back farther to the Romans, Navarra has been at the crossroads of many cultures for centuries. At Villa Romana de Arellano, the dolias unearthed by a farmer show that wine was an important product from the very beginning.

More currently, Ochoa has played a pivotal role in Navarra’s wine industry with Javier Ochoa’s role in establishing EVENA (Navarra Viticulture and Oenology Station). Continuing the family’s winemaking legacy, daughter Adriana recently took over as head winemaker and sister, Beatriz, handles marketing and sales. Reflective of Navarra’s international outlook, Adriana studied viticulture and enology in Bordeaux, France and worked the harvest in Australia before taking the reins from dad.

This duality of tradition and modernity can be seen over and over again in different forms. When we arrive, the town of Puente la Reina is bustling with activity – people sit outside in cafes and bars enjoying tapas and other treats in the summer’s afternoon. A veritable tower of Babel, a mix of languages and accents are heard as we catch snippets of conversations when we pass by. The year is 2011, but we would have found a nearly identical scene had it been 1211. Situated along the Camino de Santiago, Puente la Reina, in the heart of Navarra, is just one of the many towns that were built to provide the pilgrims with food and shelter as they made their way to Santiago de Campostela, bringing their customs and cultures as they passed through.

Further down the road, the well-worn and well-signed path snakes its way past a medieval castle at Castillo Monjardin. The castle and its eponymous winery are presided over by Sonia and her husband, Victor. While not part of Spain’s monarchy, there is a royal air about the place, which recalls Navarra’s history as a separate kingdom (maintaining its independence until it succumbed to the Castilian empire in 1512). Planted to Chardonnay, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, their vineyards underscore Navarra’s link to France. In fact, the Compte de Champagne, Theobald, also held the title of King of Navarra.

Similarly, at Otazu, Javier leads us through the ancient cellars, stopping to point out an alter that dates to the 14th century. After walking the long corridor, we turn to our right and are confronted by a set of glass doors that serve as the entrance to the new barrel room. Though just steps away, we are suddenly transported seven centuries to what is best described as a modern temple truly dedicated to Bacchus, with 1,000+ French oak barrels resting under the vaulted ceiling.

Nearby, St. Martin de Unx’s winemaker proudly professes the winery’s commitment to Spanish varieties: Garnacha, Tempranillo and Viura. While the co-op sticks to traditional grapes, it is experimenting with Navarran oak, grown in local forests, and, as he is quick to point out, are the only ones to be conducting such trials, another point of pride. Testing is also alive and well at Inurrieta, which planted Sauvignon Blanc before it became an authorized grape for the DO. Now, its two Sauvignon Blancs garner critical acclaim.

Produced from both native and international grape varieties, Navarra’s wines speak to the history and tradition of the region, while making room for what is to come. However, what is most striking about these wines is their quality. In tasting one after another, there was concentration, complexity and beautiful balance. Even more amazing, when inquiring about retail prices, most wines fall under $20.00, with quite a few under $15.00.

With its long tenure of winemaking, international influences and openness to trying new things, Navarra’s wineries remain true to this heritage. What the future holds for Navarra is anyone’s guess, but it is sure to be focused on innovation, while being strongly anchored in the region’s culturally diverse past.

 

Tasting Notes

Inurrieta Orchidea Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Navarra, Spain, $10.00
While Sauvignon Blanc is newly authorized for the region, Inurrieta produces two, with the Orchidea its unwooded venture with this grape. Aromas of citrus and tropical fruit give way to high acidity, citrus, especially grapefruit, with a slight floral note. The sur lie treatment adds some roundness to the palate, which culminates in medium+ length.

Castillo de Monjardin Chardonnay Reserva 2007, Navarra, Spain, $19.00
Castillo de Monjardin is the only one producing a Reserva-level Chardonnay. Having been barrel fermented and aged in French oak, this wine provides notes of apple, spice, butterscotch and vanilla on the nose. Its palate is full-bodied with apple, lime, spice and slight oak flavors. Overall, this wine is complex, bright and creamy, with long length.

Ochoa Rosado Lágrima 2010, Navarra, Spain, $11.00
Navarra is well-known for its rosés (aka rosados) and with good reason. The more “serious” of Ochoa’s rosés, the Lágrima is comprised of 50% each of Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon, with deep pink hue. Floral and berry aromas persist on the palate, along with depth and structure due to the wine’s slight tannic grip, herbal character and long length.

Senorio de Unx Reserva 2004, Navarra, Spain, $20.00
Produced from 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnarcha, the Reserva spent 15 months in a combination of French and American oak. The nose offers dried herbs, floral, spice and raisin, while the palate emphasizes dried figs, red fruit and sweet spice. With its medium+ tannins, full body and long length, this wine could continue to age and develop with time.

Otazu Pago de Otazu 2006, Navarra, Spain, $32.00
The Pago designation, which supersedes the DOCa level, was added to Spain’s wine laws in 2006 and is only awarded to very best estates (to date, there are only 10 Vinos de Pago throughout all of Spain). A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Tempranillo, this wine displays wet earth, dried herbs, red fruit and cinnamon on the nose. The full-bodied palate has medium+ acidity, medium tannins with notes of red fruit and earth, which linger in the long length.

Avoid regret, attend JBF’s Chefs and Champagne

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On his deathbed, John Maynard Keynes, English economist, uttered these last words, “My only regret in life is that I did not drink more Champagne.” Such regret can easily be avoided.

The James Beard Foundation’s Chefs and Champagne returns to Wölffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack, NY on Saturday, June 23, 2011. This star-studded event brings together top toques to showcase their haute cuisine in a truly grand tasting. Culinary luminaries include Matteo Bergamini of SD26; JBF Award Winner Daniel Boulud of Daniel; Marc Forgione of Marc Forgione; George Mendes of Aldea; JBF Award Winner Marcus Samuelsson of The Blue Parrot and Red Rooster; and many more. Chefs from Long Island, New Jersey, Washington, D.C. and the British West Indies will also be present.

Wash it all down with Nicolas Feuillatte, the only Champagne sponsor of this year’s gala and the #1 best-selling Champagne in France and #3 in the world.

Emeril Lagasse will be honored at the event, which raises money for the Beard Foundation’s scholarship fund. Accordingly, the 2011 recipient of the Christian Wölffer Scholarship for wine and food studies will be announced that evening.

Tickets for the event may be purchased online and are as follows:

• 4:30–10:30 P.M.: VIP Experience* – JBF members and General Public $375; VIP tables of 10: $3,500

• 5:30–8:00 P.M.: General Admission – JBF Members $200, General Public $275

*The VIP Experience includes an exclusive, one-hour access to all tastings; advanced silent auction bidding; reserved seating; VIP after-party access; and a gift bag.

Can’t get to the event? Make a donation to the James Beard Foundation and stop by your local retailer to pick up the Nicolas Feuillatte Brut, reading available at Astor, Garnet, Heights Chateau and Sherry-Lehmann among others). Or, treat yourself to its prestige cuvée, Palmes d’Or, in its signature cut-crystal bottle.

Either way, you’ll have no regrets.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Yours ’til Niagara Falls (June 2011)

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We hope this missive finds you well and enjoying the newly arrived summer season.

In just a few days, Tracy will be off to the Kingdom of Navarra in Spain’s Basque region visiting wineries and historic sites.

She’ll return in plenty of time for our 2011 Season launch on June 25, 2011. You won’t want to miss this special evening, which will feature a brief wine class on Australian wine, followed by a concert and story-telling by Australian folksinger, Susanna Carman, as part of her U.S. tour. Enjoy wines and cheeses as you listen to Susanna sing and share her tales of living Down Under.

Another new and exciting class this year is a wine and chocolate tasting with Roxanne Browning of Exotic Chocolate Tasting on August 14 (this is a date change from what was previously announced). Roxanne will share the world of artisanal
chocolate from bean to bar, while Tracy will focus on the world of wine, with a delicious line-up of wines carefully selected to pair with Roxanne’s chocolates.

Visit our website to sign up for these and all other classes.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer
Yours ‘til Niagara Falls

Last month, we had the pleasure of visiting the Niagara wine regions in both Canada and the U.S. Within the region, which centers around Lake Ontario, a wide range of microclimates is made possible by not only the maritime influence, but also, the Niagara Escarpment. The escarpment is a ridge of cliffs, which was formed by millions of years of uneven erosion (softer rocks eroded more quickly than harder rocks) and is responsible for the sheer drop of Niagara Falls. As a result, agricultural areas south of the escarpment are warmer due to the protection that the escarpment provides. As a prominent topographical feature, the Niagara Escarpment is recognized by UNESCO as a World Biosphere Reserve and extends on both sides of the border.

Within Canada’s Niagara Peninsula Viticultural Area are 10 different sub-appellations. Interestingly, the diverse variety of these microclimates has carved out areas that emulate Burgundy and Germany, while the warmer areas look to Bordeaux as their model. While the northerly location of this area likely brings cold weather to mind, some areas, such as the St. David’s Bench, experience sufficiently high temperatures in the summer, permitting Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc to ripen to maturity. In the U.S., the Niagara Escarpment American Viticultural Area (AVA) is a recent addition to New York’s wine region having only been established in 2005. With a much younger history, the American wineries are taking advice and cues from their Canadian cousins, whose region dates back to the 1970s.

Of course, it does get quite cold in the late fall and throughout the winter season, which provides ideal conditions for the production of true icewine/Eiswein (as opposed to man-made ice wine). Waiting until the grapes freeze naturally on the vine – at great risk – the frozen grapes are picked in during the last days of December into the month of February. This harvest work is not for the faint of heart given the brutally frigid weather (10-14oF) in which it must be conducted. With the grapes significantly longer tenure on the vines, the sugar levels have risen dramatically while the action of freezing allows much of the water content to be removed, thereby concentrating the juice.

Although there are numerous soil types throughout the region, areas with limestone rich soils account for distinct minerality in many of the wines and the opportunity to blind taste two Chardonnays (from different vineyards, but produced in an identical way) at Tawse Winery (Canadian Winery of the Year 2010) reinforced the impact of soil or as the French would say le gout de terroir (taste of the terroir). While there were some misses among the wines we tasted, overall, we were impressed with the quality of the wines, particularly those from Canada. Several of the American wineries are still focused on American grape varieties as well as fruit wines and nearly all are only a few years old and the lack of maturity (as did their potential) showed.

TASTING NOTES

Tawse Winery, Quarry Road Chardonnay 2009, Niagara Escarpment, Canada, $34.95
The aforementioned Tawse produces its wines following the principles of biodynamics and whether you ascribe to their philosophies or not, there is no denying that they are producing great wines. Reminiscent of Burgundian Chardonnays, this wine is dry with vibrant acidity, medium to full body and notes of mineral, melon and citrus.

Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery, Cuvée Catherine Rosé Brut Sparkling Wine NV, Niagara Escarpment, Canada, $30.00
Established in 1988, this winery is a true family affair with a lineage dating back to 1842. This Traditional Method sparkler is named for the matriarch of the family, Catherine Smith, and is a product of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and 30 months of aging on the lees (dead yeast cells). The yeasty notes showed on both the nose and palate, joined by aromas and flavors of strawberry and a refreshingly clean finish.

Thirty Bench Wine Makers, Small Lot Triangle Vineyard Riesling 2009, Beamsville Bench, Canada, $30.00
While not exclusively devoted to Riesling, Thirty Bench does produce several different “small lot” Rieslings. Harvested from the estate’s Triangle Vineyard, this dry wine has high acidity, with bright fruit aromas and flavors of citrus and melon, culminating in a long finish.

Vineland Estates Winery, Riesling 1989, Niagara Escarpment, Canada
Among the oldest vineyards in the region, Vineland was initially founded in 1979 by the Weiss family from Mosel, Germany. Graciously pulled from the winery’s library by winemaker Brian Schmidt, this wine 20+ year old was pure proof that these Rieslings can go the distance. Aged characteristics of petrol and honey greeted the nose, while the palate was still fresh and alive with high acidity. Slightly off-dry with rich honey and citrus flavors, the wine lingered for a long time.

Arrowhead Spring Vineyards, Estate Syrah 2008, Niagara Escarpment, U.S., $34.95
Arrowhead is the culmination of Duncan and Robin Ross’ dream to own a vineyard, which they launched in the early part of the previous decade.  This full-bodied, medium-tannic wine showed classic Rhone-style Syrah character with notes of meat, red fruits, spice, leather and black pepper.

Leonard Oakes Estate Winery, Vidal IceWine 2009, Niagara Escarpment, U.S., $49.95
A recent graduate (2008), Jonathan Oakes serves as viticulturist to this estate as well as winemaker for this and Schulze Vineyards and Winery. While medium-sweet on the palate, the bright acidity shines through avoiding any cloying sensations. Notes of honey, spice and apple linger in the long finish.

 

Desperately Seeking Clarity in Chianti

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Chianti DOCG is the largest Italian region producing 105,000,000 bottles annually from 2,650 producers with a total of 10,500 hectares planted in the region. However, its landscape is quite fragmented with more than 1,000 Chianti producers owning less than 1 hectare. With the U.S. as a major market for this wine, Chianti is trying to reshape its image in the minds of the American consumer. To that end, Chianti has seen some rebounding as the economy has improved, with significant growth in the over $29.00 sector and smaller gains in the $10.00-$15.00 retail band.

Among its efforts, a trade tasting was held in New York on behalf of Chianti’s Consortio. Welcoming everyone, panel moderator Robin Kelley-O’Connor, set the stage stating that the day’s event was all about “Taking the confusion out of Chianti.” He underscored his point, promising to provide attendees with “clarity.”

Robin then proceeded to go through a Powerpoint presentation, which began with Chianti’s timeline, beginning in 1932 with the first formal demarcation of the area. By 1967, Chianti regulations were updated to establish the region as a DOC and then, in 1984, to promote its status to DOCG. Since 1996, there have been numerous regulation changes, but most of them have been minor as far as the consumer is concerned, i.e. reorganization of the Consorzio.

The presentation also highlighted the historic grape varieties permitted in Chianti – Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Trebbiano and Malvasia, the latter two are white grapes. Among Sangiovese, there are 20 approved clones in total, with C Futuro 1, C Futuro 2, C Futuro 3, and C Futuro 4 being the most used.

The region’s emphasis on clones addresses the climatic and soil differences within the large geographic area. The Consorzio’s President, Giovanni Busi, stressed that the use of clones has significantly improved Chianti’s quality, which ultimately led to the changes in the Chianti “formula” which now permit the use of 100% Sangiovese and mandate a minimum of 70%. However, Busi also stressed that 40% of the vineyards need to be replanted in the next few years to achieve further quality and improve productivity.

Aside from Sangiovese, the balance of the wine may be produced from 30% Tuscan regional varieties (such as Canaiolo), of which a maximum of 10% may be white varieties. This is a big change from the original legislation which required producers to blend with white grapes. A producer looking to incorporate Cabernet Franc or Cabernet Sauvignon in his or her wine is limited to a maximum of 15%.

To achieve the Chianti Superiore DOCG designation, the wines must be produced from lower yields and a slightly higher minimum alcohol level (10.5% for Chianti, 11% for Chianti from the subdistricts and 11.5% for Superiore).

So far, the audience seemed to be following the presentation. Then things got tricky when the conversation turned to the Riserva designation. The regulation was stated as being a minimum of two years of aging from January 1 following the harvest, plus an even higher minimum alcohol level of 12%. But, it was far from clear as to whether and, if so, for how long, the wine must be aged in wood to earn the title of Riserva.

At first we were told 18 months, but later this period was amended to 6 months when we tasted the first wine and there was no mention of oak aging on the tasting sheet. This oversight was attributed to a typo rather than a lack of wood by the producer. Unfortunately, in an attempt to confirm the actual law, neither the Consorzio’s website nor the beautiful brochure distributed at the event included a definitive answer. A brief search on the Internet later on did not yield one either.

After the formal presentation, Robin led the group is a tasting of Chianti Riserva DOCG wines from the 2007 vintage, which is considered to be a good vintage. While there were differences in styles among the wines, they all showed the classic Chianti aromas and flavors of tart red fruit (especially cherry) and leathery notes, with astringency on the palate.

Merlot Match-up

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When possible, I prefer to taste wine samples in flights rather than singularly. These two California Merlots were tasted together as a way to compare and contrast their aromas, flavors and structure.

Luna Vineyards Merlot 2006, Napa Valley, CA, $40.00
Winemaking: Aged for 20 months in 50% new French oak barrels
Aromas: Plum, berries, vanilla and oak
Flavors: Plum, berries, vanilla and oak
Structure: Full-bodied, ripe tannins, medium+ alcohol, medium length

Napa Cellars Merlot 2007, Napa Valley, CA, $22.00
Winemaking: 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon; Aged for 20 months, predominantly in French oak
Aromas: Black cherry, mint, cocoa
Flavors: Cherries, spice and vanilla
Structure: Medium+ acidity, full-bodied, medium tannins, long length
The alcohol was more balanced on this wine than on the Luna Vineyards Merlot.

Zen and the Art of Cabernet Sauvignon

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At 25, Laurel Glen’s owner belonged to a Zen Buddhist colony in Sonoma County. Although he already possessed a master’s degree in religion and was a professional musician, he wasn’t certain what his ultimate path would be. Among his first tasks at the colony, Patrick Campbell was assigned to tend the community vineyards, which ignited his passion for viticulture.

Three years later, Campbell had left the Buddhists to pursue his new path and, with the help of a small inheritance, purchased vineyard land in the Sonoma Mountain AVA, which had originally been planted in the late 1880s.

Patrick spent his initial years selling grapes to Chateau St. Jean and Kenwood until the lure of making his own wine became too powerful to ignore. He experimented with a barrel or two at a time until he felt confident that he could make wine on a larger scale. Consequently, he produced his first vintage in 1981—the Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon.

In fact, Cabernet Sauvignon is all that Campbell does. More specifically, Campbell’s vineyards are planted with the Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon clone, which was certified by the University of California at Davis.

While Cabernet Sauvignon is more commonly associated with Napa than with Sonoma, this grape variety can equally thrive in the western county. As a mountain appellation, the grapes are planted at an elevation of 800-1,000 feet. Here, the climate is slightly cooler, with the grapes receiving sunlight earlier in the day and avoiding the hotter afternoon rays of the valley floor. Thus, the height and exposure permit the grapes to retain acidity well and, ultimately, keep the wines balanced. Campbell’s light hand with French oak further adds to the elegance of these wines.

This was evidenced at a recent vertical tasting in New York. While the inaugural 1981 showed signs on age with its brick rim and developing aromas, it was still alive with medium+ acidity and notes of herbs, spice, cedar and blackberry on both the nose and palate.  Subsequent wines tasted at the event showed a similar hallmark, although vintage variation and a slight style change over the years was evident.

Today, Laurel Glen includes 16 planted acres and produces 1,300-1,500 cases annually. A second wine, Counter Point, debuted in 1987 as an earlier-maturing option, and accounts for an additional 700-900 cases. Wine that doesn’t meet the standards for either the flagship wine or Counter Point is sold off as private label or on the bulk market, maintaining Campbell’s commitment to quality.

Thirty vintages on, Campbell has much of which to be proud. Laurel Glen was included in Paul Lukac’s book, Great Wines of America: The Top Forty Vintners, Vineyards, and Vintages (talk about a short list) and has developed a loyal following. So much so that he has been able to succeed without submitting wines to publications for review.

However, for Campbell, his path with Laurel Glen has come to an end. Instead, with Campbell’s recent sale of the winery, Bettina Sichel picks up where he leaves off, continuing her own family’s path in wine (she represents the 5th generation to work in the wine industry).

Sichel’s current journey began in November 2008 when a conversation with a friend ended with his statement, “We should buy a winery together some day.” After hanging up the phone, Sichel realized that it was the perfect time to consider such an opportunity and the two went on to raise money from investors to help move their goal forward. By July 2009, an action plan was in place, which included what they were looking for in a winery and why. Knowing that they wanted a winery with name recognition and a good history, Sichel went out to find a winery that fit the bill. After discovering that they couldn’t afford Napa, Sichel extended the search and found Laurel Glen to be a perfect fit. She acknowledges that it wasn’t easy and that she had to obtain a bank loan on top of the financing to make the dream a reality. However, she notes that buying Laurel Glen “is the culmination of everything I’ve worked for.”

Sichel is joined by winemaker Randall Watkins, consultant winemaker, David Ramey and viticulturist, Phil Coturri. Under Coturri’s tutelage, the vineyards are being farmed organically, along with a focus on dry farming, a more open canopy and fewer clusters per shoot.

But, despite these changes, Sichel holds fast to Laurel Glen’s illustrious history and stressed that the vibrant acidity that is characteristic of Laurel Glen will remain untouched. With Sichel at the helm, the winery is poised for continued success.