Summer Sips 2022, What Wines to Drink Now

Posted on June 28, 2022 by Tracy

Happy Summer! It’s that time of the year when I finally venture outdoors and partake in my favorite pastime – picnics! While I got off to a good start, it’s been a bit quiet lately, but I am looking forward to the holiday weekend to make up for lost time. Regardless, I am super excited about some of my newfound picnic discoveries.

We kicked off the summer season in late April (yes, it is a stretch and it was especially windy on the date in question, but anyway …) with Bisol’s anniversary celebration. This historic Prosecco Superiore producer (see previous stories on Prosecco Superiore here) dates from 1542 and has a member of the 21st generation, Gianluca Bisol, at its helm. The event was held at the Lemon Rooftop in NYC’s Hudson Yards, with its spectacular views of the Hudson River. With free-flowing sparkling wine, guests were provided with the wonderful opportunity to taste through a selection of their Proseccos including:
*Bisol Crede, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
*Jeio Brut, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
*Jeio Prosecco Rosé DOC
NB: Rosé has only recently been approved to be included in the Prosecco DOC and is not permitted for the DOCG.

While you can enjoy these wines anytime of year, the effervescent nature of the wines and celebratory nature of the event, with its great music, good food and delicious wines, were a festive reminder that summer and lighter times were just around the corner.

I am also a bit in love with wines in can from Domaine Bousquet (which I’ve written about previously), which are perfect for their portion control and portability. These lightweight, aluminum cans of 100% certified organic wine are a great option for picnics, beaches that permit alcohol and any other outdoor activities where food and wine are welcome. Plus, they cool quickly and add a lovely flair to your al fresco meals with their food friendly nature and freshness.

A blend of Pinot Noir, Syrah, Pinot Gris and Viognier, Le Petit Verre Bubbly Rosé is slightly effervescent, and offers up lovely citrus and berry notes, with bright acidity on the dry and balanced palate, with long length.

The Le Petit Verre Malbec delivers ripe black fruit aromas and flavors, with good acidity and some complexity, culminating in long length. It was a perfect foil for my BBQ burger craving over Memorial Day Weekend.

These Argentine wines hail from Tupungato,vineyards in the Mendoza region. At an SRP of $13.00 for a four-pack, each 250-ml can provides approximately a glass and a half of wine, at roughly $3.50 per can.

And finally, it was a pleasure to taste two wines from Monte Velho, which provided yet another reminder that Portuguese wines provide great value and great taste. These wines are produced in the Alentejo region and are wonderful examples of indigenous Portuguese varieties. Here, blending has a long history, but today’s wineries are bringing a more modern approach with the deliberate planting of varieties in specific vineyards, rather than relying on the field blends of yesteryear.

A blend of Antão Vaz, Perrum, and Roupeiro, the Monte Velho White 2021 is clean and fresh with medium to full body, with good concentration of ripe white fruits and citrus on the dry palate, with briny minerality and long length.

The Monte Velho Rosé 2021 brings together Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Syrah, Trincadeira and Tinta Caiada, and Arinto, yielding a wine with fresh strawberry and raspberry notes, and a hint of herbaceousness. With medium acidity, medium body and long length, this dry wine was both refreshing and food friendly.

Both wines retail at $12.00/bottle and are certified vegan by the European Vegetarian Union. Moreover, they are shipped in eco-friendly packaging with lighter-weight bottles and 100% varnish-free, recycled cardboard.

I hope these wines inspire your own al fresco dining this summer season!

Alentejo wines are ones to watch

Posted on August 12, 2021 by Tracy

While many people think of Italy, France and Spain when they think of wine, they may be limited in their ideas about Portugal. Yes, Portugal is home to rich, luscious dessert-worthy Port, but the country also produces a wide range of still and sparkling wines. In fact, Portugal has a 2,000-year history of winemaking. Moreover, when Portugal joined the EU in the mid-80s, winemakers were given access to EU funds that permitted them to invest in, and ultimately improve, their vineyards and wineries. And, the wines are still relatively inexpensive, meaning that you can enjoy a great bottle of wine at a great price!

Within Portugal, there are 13 regions that cover the full geography of the country, inclusive of its islands. Among these is Alentejo, just 90-minutes east of Lisbon, which is where the majority of cork comes from. Like the rest of the country, has a lengthy tenure in the wine world with its viticultural roots dating back to the Romans. It was further influenced by the Tartessians, the Phoenicians, and the Greeks.

The region of Alentejo and its 8 sub-regions.

Unfortunately, Alentejo was forced to uproot many of its vineyard under the Salazar dictatorship (1933-74) and replace them with wheat. Yet, despite this setback, the region has held onto its traditional winemaking practices and, aside from Georgia, is the only region where the use of amphorae has been utilized without interruption for several thousand years. In its current renaissance, the region has continued to focus on these traditional winemaking techniques such as the use of concrete casks and lagares.

Today, this relatively flat region is home to a hot, Mediterranean climate and boasts over 250 native grape varieties; the most prevalent being Antao Vaz, Arinto and Roupeiro among the whites and Alfrocheiro, Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, Castelao, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira among the reds. The international varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are also widely planted.

Additionally, Alentejo has been a big proponent of sustainable agriculture, earning international recognition (including the Drinks Business‘ Green Award 2020) for WASP (Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Program), members of which account for ~50% of Alentejo’s vineyard area. More specifically, the WASP program incorporates both agricultural and vinification aspects, but also includes an emphasis on reducing costs, increasing economic viability, environmental issues and social concerns.

With its twin emphasis on honoring its history and implementing forward-thinking practices, Alentejo wines are definitely ones to watch!

TASTING NOTES

Casa Relvas Herdade São Miguel Rosé 2020, SRP $15
Founded in 1997, Casa Relvas is a family winery with two generations currently involved. This lovely Provencal-style rose is produced from the indigenous Touriga Nacional, along with smaller quantities of Syrah, Aragonez and others. Pale onion skin in color, it has a lovely yeasty note on the nose thanks to its sur lie aging. It is redolent of unripe berries and melon and is dry, fresh, and clean on the palate with long length.

Cartuxa EA Red 2018, SRP $9
Initially founded in 1963, the Fundacao Eugenio de Almeida private foundation whose mission is to aid the development of the Evora region. Among its tasks, it is responsible for running the estate and winery, which has been in the Eugenio de Almeida family since the 19^th century. This wine is a blend of 35% Aragonez, 30% Trincadeira, 20% Alicante Bouschet and 15% Syrah, and offers up jammy red fruit aromas, slight earth and menthol notes. On the palate, it is dry, very fruit forward with medium+ to full body, medium acidity, soft tannins, flavors of red fruit and earthy and good length.

Herdade do Rocim Amphora Tinto 2019, Alentejo, Portugal, SRP $18 The culmination of a dream, Herdade do Rocim was established by Fernando Pessoa whose estate includes both vineyards and olive groves. Produced from a blend of indigenous varieties (including Moreto, Tinta Grossa, Trincadeira and Aragonez), utilizing a large, clay pot in which to ferment the grapes, this wine draws on a 2,000+ year old tradition of amphora wines. The result is a beautifully complex wine with aromas of berries, cranberry, plum and slight spice. The dry palate displays good acidity, medium body, medium tannins, with lots of fresh red fruit and spice, culminating in long length.

Adega de Borba Premium Red 2017, $15
Created in 1955, Adega de Borba was among the first wineries to be part of the national wine planning agency (Junta Nacional do Winho) at a time when wine was less important to the area’s economy. Yet, with time, the winery has sustained itself to its current position of 300 grape growers who cultivate nearly 2,000 hectares of grapes, 70% dedicated to red varieties and 30% to white. The winery is situated with Borba, a sub-region of Alentejo and is home to some of the oldest vines in the area. Bringing together Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouscht and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine offers up lots of red fruit and spice, which persist on the full-bodied palate and are joined by notes of oak and darker fruit, with long length.

CARMIM Monsaraz Reserva Red 2018, SRP $16
The well-respected Cooperativa Agrícola de Reguengos de Monsaraz (aka CARMIM) was created in 1971 and currently counts 900 growers among its membership. With 24 different wines produced, it has quite a diverse portfolio. The wine has a pronounced nose of meat, smoke and red and black fruit that gives way to a dry palate with medium acidity, full body, robust black raspberry, oak, smoke and long length.

NB: All of the above wineries are members of WASP.

The next wave of Vinho Verde makes its way from Monção e Melgaço

Posted on July 11, 2019 by Tracy

While Americans heralded their historic founding on July 4^th, the Portuguese celebrated similarly on June 10th — Portugal Day, which commemorates Portugal’s history and culture. The country’s poet, Luís de Camões, who died on June 10, 1580, was highly regarded for his epic poem praising and recording the accomplishments of the Portuguese Empire, and is now forever linked to this holiday.

Although Portugal Day is generally only observed in Portugal, this year, two wonderful wine events provided a great way to hail Portugal’s vinous culture: Esporão Day and a luncheon featuring wines from Vinho Verde’s Monção e Melgaço subregion. And, after tasting through glass after glass, it is evident that Portugal has reason to rejoice these days!

Situated in Portugal’s northwest corner, abutting Spain, the Vinho Verde region is one of the oldest in the country. This wine growing area was demarcated in 1908 and is dominated by a maritime climate thanks to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. While many people are more familiar with Vinho Verde as a whole, the recent lunch provided a more in-depth look at one of Vinho Verde’s subregions: Monção e Melgaço.

Of the nine subregions, Monção e Melgaço has garnered one of the top reputations for its wine and features a unique microclimate due to its location at the northernmost point of the Vinho Verde region. Here, because the mountain chain cuts off access to the ocean, there is less marine influence, resulting in hotter and drier summers than in the other subregions. Monção e Melgaço also boasts granitic soils that further influence the wines.

Although several grape varieties are grown in Monção e Melgaço, it is most prized for its Alvarinho (grown and known in Spain as Albarino). The variety was thought to have been introduced to Vinho Verde by the Cluny monks in the 12^th century and has become one of Portugal’s highly respected white grapes.

There were three producers represented at the lunch: the family-owned winery, Soalheiro; Provam, which was established in 1992 by 10 winegrowers; and Adega Cooperativa e Regional de Moncao, which is 60 years old. As we tasted through a selection of their wines, we had the opportunity to explore their quality and caliber.

Overall, they possess more structure and complexity compared with more generic Vinho Verde wines. And, in fact, the consortium and producers confirmed that the trend has been to craft wines with more body, structure and complexity. To this end, some of the producers are utilizing barrel fermentation, oak aging and/or batonnage (lees stirring) in pursuit of adding depth and structure.

TASTING NOTES
The Adega Cooperativa Alvarinho Deu La Deu 2018 is a fresh and fruit-forward wine with vibrant acidity and lots of citrus notes. It was a great aperitif to accompany the passed appetizers: shrimp ceviche and cucumber and lettuce cups and poached salmon and capers.

Once seated, we were served a beautiful dish of scallops and spring greens garnished with beet and pomegranate. This was paired with the Adega Cooperativa Alvarinho Deu La Deu Reserva 2015, which offered up lovely freshness, aromas of apricot and pear, with a rich and round, medium+-bodied palate, culminating in long length. In addition, the Soalheiro Alvarinho 2018 provided a classic style with tropical fruit, nice depth and concentration, with flavors of pear, spice and apricot.

The main course of grilled octopus, marinated tomatoes, pickled onions and herbs was outstanding and a terrific match for the two wines. First up was the Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas 2018, which was one of the first wines produced by this company. They age 15% of the wine in oak for added roundness. It displayed bright acidity, with slight tropical fruit and tangerine notes, along with medium body and long length. It was rounder and more food friendly than the other Soalheiro wine.

Next, we tasted the Provam Portal do Fidalgo 25 Anos Reserva 2015, which is made from old vines and had been fermented and aged in oak. The resulting wine showed lovely oak and honey on the nose, with medium+ acidity, a fuller body, very integrated oak and slight citrus notes on the dry palate, along with long length.

Finally, a dessert of pound cake, strawberries and a yuzu-lemon jam delighted the palate, served alongside the Provam Vinha Antiga Reserva 2017, with its fresh, bright acidity, citrus, apricot and minerality, with medium body and long length. It was an unexpected, yet perfect, pairing.

Esporão Day, in praise of Portugal and its wines

Posted on July 8, 2019 by Tracy

While Americans observed their historic founding on July 4^th, the Portuguese celebrated similarly last month. In particular, June 10 marked the occasion of Portugal Day, a celebration of Portugal’s history and culture, first championed by the country’s poet Luís de Camões. Camões, who died on June 10, 1580, was highly regarded for his epic poem praising and recording the accomplishments of the Portuguese Empire, forever linking him to this holiday.

Although Portugal Day is generally only acknowledged at home (in Portugal), this year, two wonderful wine events provided a great way to hail Portugal’s vinous culture: Esporão Day and a luncheon featuring wines from Vinho Verde’s Monção and Melgaço subregion. And, after tasting through glass after glass, it is evident that Portugal has reason to rejoice these days!

The fictitious, yet no less delicious, “Esporão Day,” was hosted in New York by Master Sommelier, Alex LaPratt, and included a guided tasting of six whites and six reds, expertly paired with two savory courses prepared by Hearth Restaurant in the East Village. The whites were accompanied by head-on prawns with spring vegetable ragu, butter and white wine, while the reds were served alongside beef and ricotta meatballs with “cacio e pepe” polenta.

At the center of the event was Portuguese wine brand Esporão. Established in 1973 with the aim of producing fine wine in the Alentejo region, its first foray into the industry was with the acquisition of the Herdade do Esporão estate. With 750 years of history, this storied land is home to three historical monuments – tower, arch and a chapel – as well as cork oak forests and 1710 acres of vineyards, olive groves and fruit orchards. The vineyards are planted to 40 different grape varieties and there are four different types of olives grown. The cellars were built in 1987, with separate facilities for red and white production.

After achieving success in the Alentejo, Esporão set its sights on the Douro, purchasing the Quinta dos Murcas estate in 2008. Another historic property, Quinta dos Murcas has been growing grapes since 1714, with 383 acres spread over 8 diverse terroirs. In 1947, the estate was the first to be planted vertically, with high density to stabilitze the soil against erosion on the steep (42 degree) incline.

Both estates emphasize sustainability practices and a dedication to organic farming. In this regard, Esporão hopes to be fully organically certified by 2021.

Today, the company is presently comprised of the two wine labels, olive oil production and, since 2018, the addition of a brewery, Sovina, which was the first craft beer in Portugal when founded in 2008.

Esporao’s chief winemaker, David Baverstock, is originally from Adelaide, Australia and has been with the company since 1992. He was joined in his efforts in 2016 by colleague Sandra Alves who oversees the red wines. Meanwhile, in the Douro, wine production is directed by Jose Luis Moreira da Silva.

TASTING NOTES
WHITES
*Assobio Branco 2018 – Named for the word whistle due to the sound that the wind makes as it travels through this 2300-foot-elevation vineyard, the wine offers up aromas of floral and peach. The palate is dry, with concentrated fruit flavors, medium acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Monte Velho Branco 2018 – Produced with 50% estate and 50% purchased fruit, this wine features citrus, grapefruit and pith notes, and, while dry, there is a hint of ripeness on the attack; medium+ acidity, long length.

Esporão Verdelho Branco 2017 – With Verdelho being the 6^th most planted grape in Alentejo, this grape has become much more well known. This wine displays smoke, richness and nuttiness on the full-bodied palate with medium acidity and long length.

*Esporão Colheita Branco 2018 – A beautiful wine with lovely freshness, salinity, medium+ body, flavors of pear and spice, culminating in long length.

Esporão Reserva Branco 2017 – This barrel-fermented, white blend shows spice, oak, bruised apple and nuts, along with its full body and long length.

*Esporão Private Selection Branco 2016 – Bringing together 95% Semillon and 5% field blend, sourced from a clay soil vineyard, this wine has a gorgeous nose, showing some slight development with hints of smoke, lees and oak. Full-bodied with long length, the oak lingers in finish of this very textural wine.

REDS
*Assobio Tinto 2011 – This medium-bodied red offers up aromas of berries and smoke. It is fresh with lively acidity on the palate and can take a chill, making it an excellent choice for warmer weather.

*Esporão Colheita Tinto 2017 – With a dark and brooding nose, this wine delivers more red fruit on the palate, with slight oak, medium- tannins, bright acidity and long length.

Quinta dos Murcas Minas Tinto 2017 – Intense aromas of bramble fruit, dried herbs, and a hint of oak greet the nose, with these flavors persisting on the palate and culminating in long length.

Quinta dos Murcas Reserva Tinto 2012 – This wine spends one year in barrel and four years in bottle before its release. It displays notes of oak, smoke, black fruit, and meatiness. The palate is intense and concentrated with black fruit, granite/ mineral, firm tannins, full body and long length.

Esporão Reserva Tinto 2011 – This powerful, yet restrained, wine was first produced in 1985 and sports attractive artwork on the label each year. The nose and palate feature red and black fruit, well integrated oak, firm tannins, full body and long length.

*Esporão Private Selection Tinto 2011 – A pronounced nose of black and blue fruit, gives way to vanilla, oak, iron and meatiness on the dry, full-bodied palate along with very firm tannins and long length.

*Denotes my favorite wines of the tasting.

Time in a Bottle: The Pleasures and Treasures of Old Liquors

Posted on July 17, 2016 by Tracy

If we are lucky, we live in the present moment, enjoying and savoring the here and now, rather than constantly worrying about the future still to come. Yet, the opportunity to virtually travel back in time, uniting us with the past, can be a special experience. It is why, at least in part, we visit historic places and hold onto souvenirs imbued with memories from time gone by. Most mementos are a tangible, but fleeting glimpse, crumbling with the passage of years. For most things, we rely on museums to carefully preserve the past under lock and key and precise storage conditions.

While a stroll through an ancient site or viewing an antique document can bring the past to life, there is something inherently unique in partaking in a gustatory experience asynchronously shared with those who lived long ago. Much more than simply opening up a bottle of wine from a previous vacation destination (which momentarily brings us back to that seaside table in sleepy coastal town), older wines and spirits from decades — even centuries ago — can transport us to another era. In this way, an extremely rare tasting of 19th century Cognac, Armagnac, Port and Madeira provided the sensory time machine to visit the more distant past.

Held in connection with an auction at Christie’s featuring 39 bottles of Cognac and Armagnac, each dating to a presidential term of office, from 1789 to 1977, the tasting was presented by Old Liquors, a wine shop specializing in vintage wines and spirits.

The tasting event was hosted by Old Liquors’ CEO, Bart Laming at New York’s Brandy Library. Interestingly, Brandy Library owner, Flavien Desoblin, a specialist in Cognac, noted that, “The U.S. palate has matured to appreciate older brandies, but is still whisky focused.”

Also present that evening was Christie’s Head of Wine, Edwin Vos, who painstakingly opened each bottle and shared tips for cellaring such treasures such as the admonition to store Madeira upright due to its high alcohol and high acidity content, which would damage the cork if left horizontally.

Admittedly, indulging in such wines is an expensive and limited proposition – there are scant bottles remaining. However, it was truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience to taste these rare wines and recall the world as it once was even if none of us had been there ourselves.

For those with the means and interest in pursuing their own sensory experiences, Old Liquors bills itself as the “World’s largest Old Liquors Store,” with a robust website that accepts orders from around the world.
By Phone: +31 76 5416227
By Email: info@oldliquors.com

TASTING NOTES
Madeira 1865 Café Anglais Madere Vieux, Bual
Aromas of candied ginger, honey and spice; medium sweet palate with high acidity, flavors of coconut, yeast, rancio, ginger bread and orange peel; long length.

Port 1887 Brand unknown, Unknown shipper
A slight rancio note gives way to floral, cherries and bacon on the nose; medium sweet palate, with dried red fruit dominating; much fruitier than the Madeira; long length.

Cognac 1928 Croizet B. Léon Grande Réserve
Greeted by orange peel, spice and slight honey aromas; dry palate with high alcohol, displaying spices, oak and vanilla with elegance and long length.

Cognac 1914 Maxim’s, Caves du Restaurant, Fine Champagne, Réserve
This has an intense nose with woody and vanilla aromas and flavors; it is fuller-bodied on the palate than the above Cognac.

Armagnac 1893 Jacques Marou, Vieil, Handwritten label
This spirit offers concentrated dried fruit, most notably prunes and dates, along with oak and vanilla; simply lovely.

Cognac 1811 Napoléon, Grand Réserve, Imperial glass shoulder, button ‘N’
Aromas of bruised banana, vanilla, dried fruit and orange rind; dry on the palate with high alcohol, offering up spice and floral notes.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Portuguese Wines ~ A Fun Lesson in Diversity Awareness (October 2012)

Posted on October 5, 2012 by Tracy

Long known for its high quality fortified wines – namely Port and Madeira – Portugal’s reputation for its non-fortified wines was less than stellar. Thanks to a renewed focus on quality, most notably in the wineries themselves, things are changing. The country now has an expanded repertoire of quality wines, which offer diverse styles at excellent values for today’s consumer.

Part of the secret to Portugal’s success is owed to its range of climates. Despite its small size, the country has three distinct zones, which influence the styles of wine that can be produced. Due to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, the coastal part of northern Portugal is lush and green with abundant rainfall. Here, temperatures are moderate and humidity is high. Continuing south along the coast, the climate becomes more Mediterranean, with warmer summers, mild winters, and less precipitation. Meanwhile, a series of mountain ranges in the interior blocks the moderating influence of the ocean and the climate becomes decidedly continental and arid. These inland valleys, especially those close to the Spanish border, feature blistering hot summers and very cold winters, with minimal precipitation.

Along with its diverse climate, Portugal has embraced a wide variety of grapes, choosing to rely on native varieties instead of the more internationally known Cabernet Sauvignon and the like. Instead, grapes such as Castelão and Fernão Pires, essentially found nowhere else, dominate the vineyards. Mostly planted in the south, Castelão can produce red wines with complex, herbaceous character, but can also be vinified in a more easy-drinking style. Fernão Pires, alternately called Maria Gomes, is a very aromatic white grape variety, made into dry and dessert, as well as sparkling, wines.

Red grapes take the lead, with two-thirds of all wine production being red. Aside from the aforementioned Castelão, Portuguese reds frequently feature one or more of the preferred Port varieties. Specifically, Touriga Nacional, capable of producing complex wines with firm structure and black fruit; Touriga Franca, with its floral, blackberry and plum notes; and Tinta Roriz, known elsewhere in as Tempranillo, with red fruit, olive and herbal characteristics. Another variety with significant acreage is the extremely tannic Baga grape, which is often aged in older barrels so as not to add additional tannins, yielding wines with robust wines with plum and tobacco notes, capable of aging for a long time.

White grapes are regionally prominent, especially in the cooler areas in the north and on the islands. In Vinho Verde, Loureiro and Alvarinho (synonymous with Loureira and Albariño in Spain’s Rías Baixas) are the stars. Alvarinho is distinctly tart and mineral in character with peach and citrus aromas and flavors, whereas Loureiro offers less acidity and more richness on the palate. Wines can be produced as single varietal wines or several grapes may be blended together. Compared to Rias Baixas wines, Alvarinho-led Vinho Verde is more petillant, mineral and tart.

Regardless of the varieties used, white (red and rosé versions also exist) Vinho Verde is generally low in alcohol, high in acidity with fresh citrus character. Also grown in the Vinho Verde area, as well as in Lisboa, Arinto is known for high acidity, with moderate alcohol and has to potential to age, especially if aged in oak.

With a wealth of wines from which to choose, Portuguese wines might be the perfect thing to help you break your Chardonnay habit. Because, not only is life too short to drink bad wine; it’s too short to get stuck in a rut.

Aveleda Alvarinho 2011, Vinho Verde, Portugal, $11.00
This is always one of my favorites when tasting a range of Vinho Verdes. While a bit pricier than some others, it delivers with floral, nectarine and citrus aromas and flavors. With its high acidity, dry palate and light body, this is a perfect aperitif wine.

Quinta da Romeira Arinto 2010, Bucelas, Portugal, $11.00
This wine hails from the Bucelas denomination, located close to Lisbon. It has notes of citrus, and yeast on the nose. Another relatively light-bodied wine, the palate has high acidity, along with green apples, grassiness and minerality.

Casa Ermelinda de Freitas Dona Ermelinda Reserva 2010, Palmela, Portugal, $13.00
A blend of Castelao (70%), Touriga Nacional (10%), Trincadeira (10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), this wine spent 12 months in French oak barrels. It offers red berries, perfume, oak and plum on the nose. Its palate provides vibrant acidity, dusty tannins, as well as minerality and an herbal character.

Herdade de la Malhadinha Nova Aragonês da Peceguina 2009, Alentejo, Portugal, $21.00
Unlike Rioja, which relies on Tempranillo, but usually includes at least one blending partner, this wine is 100% Tempranillo (simply masquerading under its Portuguese pseudonym). Showing ripe and jammy black berries, oak, medium tannins and some minerality, this wine seems more new world than old world, but still has nice balance.

Quinta de Vesuvio Pombal de Vesúvio 2008, Douro, Portugal, $27.00
At 803 acres, Quinta de Vesuvio is one of the largest estates within the Douro Valley. This blend of Touriga Franca (55%), Touriga Nacional (35%) and Tinta Amarela (10%) was aged in barrel for 9 months in French oak. It displays black and bramble fruit aromas along with smoky notes, both of which are repeated on the full-bodied palate, and joined by vibrant acidity.

Madeira: Perhaps a true desert island wine

Posted on July 3, 2010 by Tracy

Courtesy Vinho Madeira - IVBAM

OK, yes, I wrote about desert island wines previously, but what if you were truly stranded on a desert island? You certainly wouldn’t have temperature-controlled wine storage available to you and eventually your wines would spoil in the heat. But what about a wine that was designed to withstand the heat and would even continue to improve on the voyage to said desert island? Madeira — a wine created to survive the long sea voyage from Europe to the New World– would be the perfect wine for such circumstances.

Madeira is a volcanic island off the coast of Portugal and is the home of Madeira wine. Here, Tinta Negra Mole, Sercial, Verdelho, Bual and Malmsey (aka Malvasia) are grown on the steep slopes of the island. All, but the Tinta Negra, are white grape varieties. The wine itself owes its taste and character to its fortification (through the addition of a neutral grape-based spirit similar to Port or Sherry) and its prolonged exposure to the heat. The fortification interrupts the fermentation process and, depending upon when it occurs, generally prevents some of the sugar from being converted into alcohol, thereby creating a wine with some sweetness.

Four styles of wine — dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet and sweet — are produced, corresponding to the grape variety used. Sercial is the driest style, followed by Verdelho and Bual, with Malmsey being the sweetest. However, despite being labeled as “sweet”, these wines are drier than you might think and can actually pair nicely with savory foods, such as cheeses, wild game and nuts, as well as, if not better than, desserts.

After the fortification, the wine is subjected to high temperatures in either a heated, concrete vat (an estufa) for several months or through prolonged storage in oak casks in naturally warm rooms (canteiros) over several years, recreating the conditions found when the wine was shipped over lengthy distances. Given the slow and steady process, the Canteiro method is considered to be of higher quality and thus generally reserved for the Sercial, Verdelho, Bual and Malmsey grapes, while Tinta Negra Mole are most often heated in Estufagem. A minimum of 85% of the grapes must be from the named grape variety if it is stated on the label.

With its ability to withstand the heat, Madeira would do well in the sans-refrigerator environment of the desert island. For those of us on Manhattan island (hot right now, but fortunately, not under desert conditions) as well as elsewhere in the United States, Madeira is a perfect wine to enjoy now. And, as some of my colleague, Rebecca Chapa, has pointed out, it is timely too, as George Washington toasted the first Independence Day back in 1776 with a glass of Madeira.

A June tasting, sponsored by the Madeira Wine, Embroidery and Handcraft Institute (IVBAM), showcased some of the top Madeira producers, including Blandy’s, Broadbent, Henriques & Henriques, Justino’s, Pereira d’Oliveira and Vinhos Barbeito. Here are a few tasting notes from that event:

Henriques & Henriques 10 Years Old Verdelho, Portugal
Dating back to 1850, Henriques & Henriques is the largest independent producer and shipper of Madeira. Medium mahoghany in color with aromas of honey, burnt orange and oxidation, this wine is off-dry with rich flavors of orange peel, honey and raisin that linger in its long length.

Vinhos Berbeito Historic Series Malmsey New York Special Reserve, Portugal
Established in 1946 by Mario Barbeito, this Madeira producer has a shorter history than many other firms, but has created an historic series based on the styles of wine preferred by various colonial cities. Colonial New Yorkers preferred a richer style of wine compared to their colleagues in Charleston and Savannah, with coffee, toffee and raisin notes on the nose and medium-sweet palate, culminating in long length.

Broadbent Madeira Malmsey 10 Years Old, Portugal
Bartholemew Broadbent imports Madeira wines under his own label. This sweet wine has aromas of burnt sugar, oxidation and dried oranges, with flavors of spice, dried fruits and dried herbs on the palate.

D’Oliveira Reserve Sercial 1969, Portugal
A small producer, Pereira d’Oliveira is known for its large stocks of old and rare wines. This older vintage is still showing some color with notes of burnt sugar and honey. It is dry with oxidized notes, honey and spice on the palate.

Blandy’s Madeira Vintage Bual 1968, Portugal
Blandy’s was named for a soldier who landed on Madeira in 1808 and eventually settled on the island as a general trader in 1811. This vintage wine is pale in color, but still shows hues of mahoghany. The nose is rich and deep with notes of caramel and burnt sugar. On the palate, it is medium-sweet, with a hint of oxidation, caramel, burnt orange and treacle flavors that persist.

It's A Winederful Life

Living la vita del vino with Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

Category Archives: Portugal