Category Archives: Wine Regions

Navarra Wine

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Yesterday I attended the Navarra wine tasting event at the W Hotel near Union Square. The event featured 20 different producers from this Spanish wine region. While Navarra sits just to the north of the famed Rioja region, it is only becoming known internationally now. It shares some of Rioja’s winemaking heritage and many of the same grapes are planted in both places. However, Navarra has established itself as a modern winemaking region, emphasizing international grapes — Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon — and an international style of production.

Among its more well-received wines, Navarra produces some lovely roses made from the Garnacha grape (also known as Grenache). These fresh and fruity roses are sturdy enough to pair with food, but light enough to enjoy on their own.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Where the Bargains Are…Revisited (November 2009)

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Wow, Fall seems to be literally flying by as Grand Cru Classes completes a whirlwind of projects in October and November. Among our many endeavors, we are thrilled to be providing staff training to the esteemed Four Seasons Restaurant in Manhattan and for Park Place Wines in tony East Hampton.

In between preparing custom training materials and introducing dozens of people to the world of wine, Tracy has had her nose in the books as she studied for Year 1 (of 3) of the American Wine Society’s Wine Judging Certification program. An educational session and Year 1 exam were presented at the annual conference held in Destin, Florida earlier this month. She also “appeared” on Heritage Radio Network’s At the Root of It with Erin Fitzpatrick for the October 27 episode.

November marks the end of our public class sessions in Mattituck for 2009, so if you wish to take a class with us this season, please check our schedule and sign up. Public classes will resume in May. However, private events may be booked with us all year.

In fact, as the allure of the holiday season comes upon us, why not consider a special wine tasting or wine and cheese event in place of your usual holiday party? With years of event planning experience, we can provide you with an elegant affair that your guests will fondly remember.

Beyond entertaining, Grand Cru Classes offers beautifully-packaged gift certificates. Give the gift of a public wine class, a private wine event or consultation services for wine shopping or developing a wine cellar. To make your gift even more special, all gift certificates purchased between now and December 31 will be sent with a set of handmade wine charms.

Finally, if you need to stock up on break-resistant, crystal stemware, now is the time. These glasses also make great gifts. Our next order with Schott-Zweisel will be placed by November 30th. Please contact us directly to receive a catalog of style choices and pricing.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

WHERE THE BUYS ARE…REVISITED

A recent study, commissioned by Italian wine producer Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, revealed interesting differences between Italian and U.S. wine consumers. It seems that Italian wine drinkers are more focused on quality and thus, continue to buy wine at the same quality levels as previously during this economic downturn. However, they are buying fewer bottles. Conversely, according to a Nielsen Group study, during this recession, Americans are drinking in the same quantities, but have adjusted the price point of their purchases. Accordingly, if one used to buy wine in the $15-$20 range, that same consumer is likely now buying wines in the $10-$15 price bracket. With this in mind, we turn our attention to tips and tricks for finding where the bargains are.

Lesser-known Neighbors
In wine, as in real estate, it’s all about location, location, location. With the popularity of key grape varieties, wine regions or both, the price of these wines escalates. Meanwhile, wines that hail from “the wrong side of the tracks” can offer consumers great value. More specifically, if you enjoy the crisp acidity, citrus aromas and flavors and minerality of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé from France’s Loire Valley, look to the villages of Quincy, Reuilly and Menetou-Salon for similarly styled wines at lower price points. The vaunted Sauternes of Bordeaux is prized for its botrytis-affected dessert wines, but the favorable conditions that exist to create these wines are not confined to this single area. Wines from satellite communes Loupiac, Cadillac, Cerons and Ste. Croix du Mont may not have the same longevity, but will provide better bang for your buck for early consumption.

Know thy Vintage and/or Producer
Scaling back on your Burgundy purchases? Generic appellations (AC Bourgogne vs. AC Gevry-Chambertin) from well-regarded négociants (such as Latour, Drouhin and Jadot) will provide good quality wines less expensively. Other Burgundian options are to seek out wines from districts other than the famed Côtes de Nuits and Côtes de Beaune (collectively known as the Côte d’Or) – Côte Chalonnaise offers good Pinot Noirs while Macon, especially Pouilly-Fuissé) is regarded for its Chardonnays. Bordeaux is all about vintage, so choose lesser known producers in great years (2000, 2003, 2005) or search out better producers in “shadow vintages,” those years that got lost in the hoopla of better rated vintages (i.e., 2001 and 2004), for more reasonable options.

Where the Buys Are 2009
Still considered up and coming, Chilean wines are seeing significant improvement in their quality while still being available at the lower end of the market. In particular, Sauvignon Blanc from Leyda and Carmenere from the Maule Valley are terrific choices. Finally, don’t overlook Long Island. While often thought to be expensive wines, a recent blind tasting of Long Island wines pitted against their international peers found that not only did the wines compare favorably on the palate, they usually much less expensive than the competition.

Tasting Notes

Cascina Ca’Rossa, Roero Arneis «Merica» 2008, Piedmont, Italy, $14.95
This wine is made from the Arneis grape, which is indigenous to the Piedmont region, located in northwestern Italy. On the nose, there are aromas of floral, almond and honey. On the palate, flavors of lime, almond, straw and honey linger throughout the long length. 

Pierre Sparr, Selection Series Riesling 2008, Alsace, France, $14.00
As with most Alsatian wines, this one is varietally correct, truly showing off Riesling’s peach and citrus aromas and flavors. The palate is dry with high acidity and medium length. 

Channing Daughters, Scuttlehole Chardonnay 2008, The Hamptons, $16.00
This unoaked Chardonnay held its own when blind tasted amidst wines from Chablis and Pouilly-Fuissé. Youthful aromas of floral, mineral and lime persist on the palate and are joined by lemon and stone. Crisp acidity and concentrated fruit are balanced by its full body.

Château Teyssier, St. Emilion Grand Cru 2006, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
Aromas of black fruit and molasses greet the nose. The palate is dry with medium acidty and medium tannins, along with flavors of blackberry, coffee, and spice. 

Casas Patronales, Carmenere Reserva 2008, Maule Valley, Chile, $10.00
This producer’s Reserva wines spend 6 months aged in oak, but the wines are not overly oaky. The Carmenere is dry with medium body and medium acidity. Its palate is spicy with red fruits/raspberry and slight earth flavors culminating in medium+ length.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Taming of the Brew (October 2009)

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Several years ago, we visited my parents at their home in Ashland, Oregon and had the opportunity to attend their town’s renowned Shakespeare Festival where we saw Taming of the Shrew. While Petruchio worked hard to “tame” Katherina, vintners in Cahors, France have put their energies toward taming the tannins in their wines.

Here at home, Tracy hopes that taming of her students will not be necessary as she begins teaching WSET Intermediate Certificate at the International Wine Center later this month. She completed an intensive teacher training program with the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET) in August and is now ready to hit the ground running.

Jared has been equally busy, completing Murray’s Cheese Boot Camp in late September, which entailed 15 hours of intensive cheese study over three days. All told, he consumed about three pounds of cheese while tasting through over 65 samples.

Both our wine and cheese knowledge are being well-utilized by clients this month as we provide training in French wines for the crew of a private yacht and present a special “Welcome to Long Island” wine and cheese party for a wedding on Shelter Island.

We are also delighted to announce that we were featured in Edible East End’s High Summer issue: To Drink, Perchance to Teach.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

TAMING OF THE BREW

“‘They have tamed the tannins.'” Such was the pronouncement from Elin McCoy, noted wine writer and author, at a tasting event launching the Cahors campaign in the U.S. Traditionally known for extremely tight and tannic wines, Cahors, situated in Southwest France, was called “the black wine” in the 13th century. However, as McCoy explained, today’s wines are much more approachable with less tannic grip than the wines of old. 

The tiny village of Cahors is home to only 5,000 inhabitants, but boasts two UNESCO heritage sites – Valentré Bridge and Cathédrale Saint-Étienne. There are 430 growers producing AOC Cahors, all of which is red and produced with a minimum of 70% Malbec, which hails from this region despite Argentina’s market dominance with this grape. The terrain is divided among the plateau, slope and valley, with grapes from the various parcels blended together to create deeper complexity.

Present day wines can be grouped into one of three wine styles: intense and complex (100% Malbec); feisty and powerful (85-100% Malbec) and tender and fruity (70-85% Malbec). Not surprisingly, the more expensive wines tend to fall into the first category. However these wines still represent good value with the majority of them ranging from $10.00 to $20.00. At this price point, the wines offer ataste of their origin and are really quite interesting, giving the consumer great wines for the price. 

Cahors typically display aromas and flavors of black fruits, such as blackberry and blueberry, and hints of mushrooms (with age). They also show some minerality and finish with fresh acidity and firm, but ripe, tannins. Compared to Argentine Malbecs, Cahors wines are less fruit-driven and retain more elegance with lighter, less jammy aromas and flavors. These wines are food friendly and pair well with local cuisines – notably truffles, foie gras and cassoulet, but could just as easily complement barbecue fare, grilled meats and game. 

Located not too far from Bordeaux, the regions share the same climate and annual weather patterns. Consequently, the two mirror each other in terms of vintage quality and variation. In great vintages such as 2005 and 2008, the wines are capable of ageing well with as much as 10-15 years of cellaring. Less stellar years provide an opportunity to drink the wines young.

As part of the campaign to promote these wines, a special Cahors glass (the only region with its own official stemware) and special bottle were commissioned. The Cahors glass has a ring in the stem, which permits one to place their fingers in it when holding the glass.

Tasting Notes

TENDER & FRUITY
Château Croze de Pys, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $10.00
Aromas of plum and blackberry greet the nose of this 100% Malbec wine. With an attractive freshness and good fruit, the palate offers vibrant acidity and firm tannins along with notes of blackberry and slight earth. 

Château Les Croisille, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $12.00
Blended with approximately 15% Merlot, this deep ruby wine has black fruit aromas. Blackberry and herbal, spice, savory and olive, well-balanced with long length. 

FEISTY & POWERFUL
Château La Caminade, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $21.00
A pronounced nose of smoke, bramble fruit and a hint of savory leaps from the glass. Similarly, the wine is powerful on the palate, with deep and rich flavors of blackcherry, herbal, wood/oak and earth, coupled with firm, but ripe tannins, 

INTENSE & COMPLEX
Château de Haute-Serre, Cahors 2004, Cahors, France, $18.00
Made from 100% Malbec, black fruits, spice and pepper notes fill the nose. However, on the palate, the wine is brighter, showing raspberry, earth and gamey flavors. 

Domaine Cosse Masionneuve, « Les Laquets » Cahors 2004, Cahors, France, $45.00
Proprietors Mathieu Cosse and Catherine Maisonneuve started their small domaine in 1999 and make their wines as naturally as possible, practicing biodynamic principles. Nearly opaque, the wine shows mineral/flint notes along with floral and blueberry aromas. On the palate, lush fruit flavors of blackcherry and blackberry are joined by vanilla and hints of stone and herbal.

Gentlemen prefer blondes – Xavier Flouret French Blonde

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They say gentlemen prefer blondes. Here, the “blonde” in question is Xavier Flouret’s French Blonde.

This wine hails from Sancerre, a wine region located within the Central Vineyards section of France’s Loire Valley. As an appellation wine from Sancerre, the wine is produced from 100% Sauvignon Blanc.

Distributed by Cognac One, the Xavier Flouret Wines consist of a curated portfolio of boutique wines from established family vineyards around the world. In the case of the French Blonde, the wines are crafted by the Chatelain family, which has been growing vines since 1630, with the 12th generation family members – Jean-Claude Chatelain and son Vincent – currently at the helm. The vines themselves average 30 years old.

The wine was fermented in stainless steel neither adding nor subtracting flavor from this aromatic grape variety, followed by four months of ageing on the lees (spent yeast cells), and two month bottle ageing before release.

On the nose, the wine displays youthful citrus/lime aromas. On the palate, it has vibrant acidity with concentrated fruit flavors of lime, grapefruit and hay, finishing with a slight undercurrent of stone.

Grand Cru Grapevine: Oregon, but not forgotten (August 2009)

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As mentioned previously, we had the wonderful opportunity to visit Oregon in May of this year, visiting downtown Portland as well as spending time in the Willamette Valley. This wine region is producing spectacular wines and, while we have left the area, the memories of its wines are certainly not forgotten. To that end, we revisit its history and provide you with a brief introduction this month.

Among other travels, Tracy has just returned from Sacramento where she attended the Society of Wine Educators’ annual conference, reconnected with many colleagues and participated in a wide variety of educational seminars. Meanwhile, Jared has completed the last of the infrastructure projects for our educational vineyard, installing several hundred feet of irrigation hose. True to Murphy’s Law, the continued downpour has precluded the need for irrigation this year.

Apropos all of the rain, we have been busy offering our services at a number of bridal showers and, additionally, have created a new theme for bachelorette parties – Aphrodite meets Bacchus & Lady Godiva. If you are planning a wedding celebration, let us help you design the perfect wine-themed event.

On a final note, we will be placing a new order for Schott-Zwiesel titanium crystal and invite you to add to your own stemware collection. You may have seen us strike these amazing glasses against our granite counter-top and held your breath as you expected them to break only to watch them remain perfectly intact. This stemware is available in a wide range of styles from classic to modern and can be purchased for as little as $8.00/stem, plus shipping and handling. We’ll soon add more details to our website, so please check back if you are interested in placing an order, or email us directly for a catalog.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

OREGON, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN

Despite its youth as a wine-producing state, Oregon has become nearly synonymous with quality wine and notably its Pinot Noir. Yet, only a few decades ago, early settlers were laughed at by their peers. In 1966, David Lett was fresh out of UC Davis and determined to plant a vineyard and begin making wine. He found what he felt to be suitable land in the Dundee Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, founding the Eyrie Vineyard in 1970, and the rest, as they say, is history. 

David was joined by other wine pioneers shortly thereafter, setting the stage for this nascent wine region. Seeing similarity between their terroir and that of Burgundy (heartland of Pinot Noir), they set about crafting wines that emulated these icons while respecting their own unique soils and climate. Perhaps the most ringing endorsement of their success was the investment made by a top Burgundy négociant and producer, Maison Joseph Drouhin, when it established Domaine Drouhin in Willamette in 1988. Today, Oregon ranks as the fourth largest in U.S. wine production and its wines are highly acclaimed both here and abroad.

While wine regions exist in Oregon’s other valleys – namely Umpqua and Rogue, it is the Willamette Valley that has achieved the most fame. Situated only one hour from Portland, the Willamette is divided into six sub-appellations: Dundee Hills, Ribbon Ridge, Eola Amity Hills, McMinneville, Yamhill-Carlton District and Chehalem Mountains. Beyond Pinot Noir, the Willamette is also known for its Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and sparkling wines. To a lesser extent, some producers are working with Rhone varieties – Syrah and Viognier, most of which is sourced from the warmer Rogue Valley in southern Oregon.

Unfortunately, Oregon Pinot Noir can be quite pricey, due to its limited, labor-intensive, quality-conscious production. However, among New World Pinot Noirs, they are considered to be among the best. Thus, you will be well rewarded for your investment. At the more affordable end, A to Z Wineworks, WillaKenzie and Anne Amie’s Cuvée A provide good value. If you are feeling more flush and wish to splurge a bit, seek out Elk Cove, Bergström, and Cristom.

Tasting Notes

Adelsheim, Pinot Blanc 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $22.00
Among the early pioneers, Adelsheim was established in 1971. Its Pinot Blanc shows citrus, mineral and pear aromas. On the palate, it is dry with medium acidity, medium body and notes of citrus and minerality. 

Anne Amie, Cuvée A Amrita 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $16.00
Named for the Buddhist equivalent of ambrosia, Amrita is a white blend of Pinot Blanc (47%), Muller-Thurgau (25%), Chardonnay (15%), and Riesling (13%). Aromas of tropical fruit and grass give way to a dry palate with citrus and herbal flavors. 1,700 cases produced. 

Jezebel, Pinot Noir 2007, Oregon, $18.00
From Daedalus Cellars, Jezebel is produced as their second label, with grapes sourced from throughout the state for wines intended to be drunk early in their life. This Pinot Noir displays aromas and flavors of barnyard, raspberry and earth. 

Bergström, de Lancellotti Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Chehalem Mountains, OR, $65.00
With a focus on vineyard expression, Bergstrom produces several vineyard designate Pinot Noirs. The de Lancellotti Vineyard shows floral, raspberry and stone aromas and flavors, which combine with an earthy undercurrent that persists throughout its long length. 455 cases produced.

Penner-Ash, Syrah 2006, Oregon, $32.00
Produced in the northern Rhone Valley tradition, this Syrah is co-fermented with 1.5% Viognier. The nose is a mix of plum, berries and floral. Its dry, medium+-bodied palate has a nice, ripe tannic grip with flavors of plum, spice and leather, culminating in long length.

Amity Vineyards, Late Estate Harvest Riesling 2004, Willamette Valley, OR, $15.00 (375 ml)
Owner Myron Redford began making wine in the Eola-Amity appellation in 1974. His late harvest Riesling offers peach, apricot and honey aromas on the nose, joined by developing and floral notes in the mouth. A true dessert wine, it provides significant sweetness on the palate, which is beautifully balanced with vibrant acidity.

On the radio tonight – French wines

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I will “appear” on Blog Talk radio this evening on the Eat, Drink, Be Merry show. The show starts at 7:00 PM EST; my segment will begin around 8:35 PM EST.

The topic will be French wines, in honor of Bastille Day, which is July 14.

Tune in tonight at:
http://www.blogtalkradio.com/Big-Blend-Radio/2009/07/06/Eat-Drink-Be-Merry

Bordeaux futures — the 2008 en primeur campaign

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The Bordeaux Futures campaign kicked off this month, providing consumers with the opportunity to purchase wines from this vintage. The wines are currently still in barrel, ageing in the cellars of their respective Chateaux. Accordingly, wines bought now won’t be delivered until 2011. Robert Parker and other wine critics have declared this to be a good vintage, but note that it is not on par with 2000 or 2005. More specifically, they are comparing it to 2001.

Given the economic climate, the initial prices have been dropped with some wines being offered at the same prices as 2004. However, some of the prices have since increased as purchases have been made, indicating more interest from the trade than was initially expected.

While some people have cautioned that it is not necessary to buy this vintage during the Futures campaign given the economic climate, others have suggested that this is a great opportunity to buy Bordeaux from a quality year, at more reasonable prices than we had seen.

As an indication of the mixed messages, some wine merchants who traditionally offer a large selection of Bordeaux wines through a Futures campaign have decided to forgo participation this year or will be offering only a small set of wines to their customers.

For consumers who do choose to buy en primeur, it is extremely important to buy from a reputable merchant to ensure that you will actually receive the wine you purchase. The key issues are that the store will still be in business when 2011 rolls around and, more importantly, that you are not being scammed as had been the case with a number of dishonest people in 2003 with the 2000 campaign.

If you don’t have a trusted store (or if yours isn’t offering Bordeaux Futures), here are a few recommendations. I have personally had continued success with Sherry-Lehmann, which has posted a list of 59 wines to its site for the 2008 campaign. I have not bought Futures from, but would also recommend, Zachy’s (located in Scarsdale, but you can do a search on their site with key words: Bordeaux 2008) and Acker, Merrall & Condit (no information is on their site, but you can call and speak with a salesperson to discuss availability). In addition, while I am less familiar with Gary’s Wine & Marketplace, they, too, are offering Bordeaux futures (there are 38 wines listed on their site) and they have a good reputation. Obviously, this is not an exhaustive list.

Oregon, but not forgotten: A Visit to the Willamette Valley

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We had the wonderful opportunity to travel to Oregon in May 2009, visiting downtown Portland and spending time in the Willamette Valley. While wine regions exist in Oregon’s other valleys, namely the Umpqua and Rogue, it is the Willamette Valley that has achieved the most fame. This wine region is producing spectacular wines and while we have left the area, the memories of its wines are certainly not forgotten. Despite its youth as a wine-producing state, Oregon has become nearly synonymous with quality wine. Yet, only a few decades ago, early settlers were laughed at by their peers. In 1966, David Lett was a newly minted UC Davis graduate determined to plant a vineyard and begin making wine. He found what he felt to be suitable land in the Dundee Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, founding the Eyrie Vineyard in 1970, and the rest, as they say, is history.

 

David was joined by other wine pioneers shortly thereafter, setting the stage for this nascent wine region. Seeing similarity between their terroir and that of Burgundy (heartland of Pinot Noir), they set about crafting wines that emulated these icons while respecting their own unique soils and climate. Perhaps the most ringing endorsement of their success was the investment made by top Burgundy négociant and producer, Maison Joseph Drouhin, when it established Domaine Drouhin in Willamette in 1988. Today, Oregon ranks as the fourth largest in U.S. wine production and its wines are highly acclaimed both here and abroad. In fact, Oregon Pinot Noirs are considered to be among the best New World Pinot Noirs.

Situated only one hour south from Portland, the Willamette Valley is home to varied volcanic soils and a cool climate. The Valley is divided into six sub-appellations: Dundee Hills, Ribbon Ridge, Eola-Amity Hills, McMinneville, Yamhill-Carlton District and Chehalem Mountains. Beyond world class Pinot Noir, the Willamette is also known for its Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and sparkling wines. To a lesser extent, some producers are working with Rhone varieties – Syrah and Viognier – most of which is sourced from the warmer Rogue Valley in southern Oregon. The majority of Willamette’s wineries are open to the public for tastings and sales and readily welcome visitors.

 

Thus, we arrived in Portland, OR on a Wednesday evening, ready for a long weekend of wonderful food and wine. From the airport, downtown Portland is easily accessible via public transportation and, once there, easily navigated on foot, trolley or bus. As a relatively major city, Portland is home to a wide range of neighborhoods as well as museums, historic sites and other points of interest. Due to our limited time in town, our cultural visit was restricted to the Rose (gratis) and Japanese Gardens ($8.00/adult), both of which were beautiful. The Japanese Garden was particularly lovely for its amazing view of Mount Hood.|

East of the city, visitors can escape to the “wilderness” and enjoy white water rafting, hiking and other outdoor activities. We spent a half-day rafting down the Clackamas River (www.riverdrifters.net; $60/adult), which was full of fury with the recent snow melt, but a lot of fun. We then returned to Portland and splurged on dinner at Paley’s Place (www.paleysplace.net), a local favorite that specializes in locavore cuisine, with a wine list to match. We were impressed by the food as well as with the excellent customer service and knowledgeable waitstaff, who not only expertly advised us on our wine selection, but also on the cheese selections at dessert.  

Saturday morning found us at the local craft market (known as the Saturday Market, www.saturdaymarket.org), which is host to hundreds of vendors peddling their wares from candles and clothing to jewelry, pottery and glass art. This outing was followed by a visit to the Portland Farmers’ Market (www.portlandfarmersmarket.org), where we stocked up on local produce, fresh strawberries, smoked fish, artisan bread and a host of other homegrown food. The reason for this latter stop was that, instead of staying at a hotel or bed and breakfast, we had opted to rent a cottage in Carlton while staying in Willamette. This arrangement provided us with a good excuse to buy a few bottles of wine each day to enjoy with dinner prepared on the grill at “home”, without worrying about driving while intoxicated.

 

Carlton, we were told, is the “center of the Willamette universe.” Compared to New York City (or even Portland), it is a very small town, but there is some merit to that statement. Carlton is home to a number of wineries and tasting rooms, along with several restaurants and wine and cheese bar, The Horse Radish (www.thehorseradish.com). Aside from being a great place to stock up on Oregonian and international cheeses, The Horse Radish features live music on Friday and Saturday nights and not just local bands; on the night we were there, the musical duo was from Arizona.

 

Excited to have arrived in the valley, we walked up to the Zenas Wines’ (www.zenaswines.com) tasting room. Zenas produces three of its four wines with fruit sourced from the Del Rio Vineyards in the Rogue Valley and its Riesling with Willamette Valley fruit. The Southern Oregon wines include a Meritage (Bordeaux-style blend), Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Named for Zenas Howard, an early (1856) settler in the Rogue Valley, the winery is currently owned by his descendents.

We then headed out to Anne Amie (www.anneamie.com; $5.00 tasting fee/ $10.00 for the Reserve flight). This property was formally known as Chateau Benoit Winery, but was purchased by its new owner, Dr. Robert Pamplin, in 1999. Dr. Pamplin has been focused on elevating the quality and reputation of his winery ever since and is producing primarily Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc on its L.I.V.E. certified sustainable vineyards. The tasting room is located at the top of a hill and provides beautiful views of the vineyards and Pacific Coast Range.

 

We kicked off the following morning at Penner Ash (http://pennerash.com), which focuses on both Burgundy (Pinot Noir) & Rhone (Syrah and Viognier) varieties. Founded by winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash in 1998, along with husband Ron, Penner-Ash has evolved from an initial 125 production to 8,000 cases annually. Another hilltop tasting room, the vistas are quite incredible as one walks amidst the lush landscaping.

 

From Penner-Ash, it was off to Adelsheim (www.adelsheim.com). Among the early pioneers, Adelsheim was established in 1971 by Ginny and David Adelsheim and several of its labels feature portraits of family members and friends of the winery. The newly renovated tasting room also offers outdoor seating, where one can enjoy a bottle of wine with a picnic lunch (we picked up our lunch ahead of time in Carlton at the Filling Station).

Our next stop was Daedalus Cellars (www.daedaluscellars.com), a small, family-owned and operated winery which specializes in Pinot Noir, but also makes small amounts of Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay and Grüner Veltliner. Additionally, Daedalus produces a second label, Jezebel, with grapes sourced from throughout the state for wines intended to be drunk early in their life. The tasting room is rather small, but is conveniently located on the main drag (99W in Dundee).

 

Exclusively devoted to Pinot Noir, White Rose Wines (www.whiterosewines.com) was planted in 1980. Its vineyard is a high-elevation sight on top of the famous Dundee Hills, permitting views of Mount Hood in the distance. Owned by Greg Sanders, the winery has developed several different wines, with four of the six wines named for Greg’s children.

 

We capped off the day at Carlton Winemakers’ Studio (www.winemakersstudio.com), which is a joint venture among several different wine producers. Launched in 2002, the studio is currently home to ten artisan vintners and serves as a great incubator for up and comers; past alumni include Penner-Ash, Soter Vineyards and Ribbon Ridge Vineyards. The facility itself is designed to maximize daylight and is produced from recycled and sustainable materials. On the day of our visit, we tasted wines from several producers including Hamacher Wines and Andrew Rich.

The second full day of tasting began at Bergström Wines (www.bergstromwines.com; $25.00 tasting fee). Founded by John and Karen Bergström, the couple’s five children and spouses now co-own the winery with their parents, with son Josh Bergström presently serving as winemaker. Known for ultra premium wines and a focus on vineyard expression, Bergstrom produces several limited production, vineyard-designate Pinot Noirs.

The next stop on our itinerary was WillaKenzie Estate (www.willakenzie.com; $15.00 tasting fee, refundable with $25.00 wine purchase), where we were greeted by co-owner, Ronnie LaCroute, who graciously provided us with a tour. As Ronnie likes to remind folks, “Dirt matters.” Therefore, it is no surprise to learn that WillaKenzie is named for a type of soil that originates from the pushed up sea floor found in the Yamhill-Carlton and Ribbon Ridge areas. Among the larger properties we visited, WillaKenzie is situated on a 420-acre, former cattle ranch and practices sustainable viticulture.

 

We ended our tastings at Amity Vineyards (www.amityvineyards.com), where we met with owner, Myron Redford, who began making wine in the Eola-Amity appellation (the southernmost Willamette AVA) in 1974. Myron has an extremely diverse portfolio at Amity, ranging from his EcoWine® range of organic and sulfite-free wines to the Reserve and single-vineyard wines.

 

SELECTED TASTING NOTES
Anne Amie, Cuvée A Amrita 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $16.00
Named for the Buddhist equivalent of ambrosia, Amrita is a white blend of Pinot Blanc (47%), Muller-Thurgau (25%), Chardonnay (15%), and Riesling (13%). Aromas of tropical fruit and grass give way to a dry palate with citrus and herbal flavors. 1,700 cases produced.

Adelsheim, Pinot Blanc 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $22.00
This Pinot Blanc shows citrus, mineral and pear aromas. On the palate, it is dry with medium acidity, medium body and notes of citrus and minerality.

Daedalus, Lia’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2006, Chehalem Mountain, OR, $25.00
After spending 500 days on the lees, along with 18 months in neutral oak, this wine displays aromas and flavors of yeast, citrus and toothpick.

 

White Rose Wines, White Rose Estate 2006, Dundee Hills, OR, $75.00
Produced from 30 year-old vines, cropped at only 1 ton per acre, this wine is very concentrated on both the nose and palate. Aromas of floral and earth give way to more fruity flavors of raspberry and cherry. 198 cases produced.

Bergström, de Lancellotti Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Chehalem Mountains, OR, $65.00
The de Lancellotti Vineyard bottling shows floral, raspberry and stone aromas and flavors, which combine with an earthy undercurrent that persists throughout its long length. 455 cases produced.

WillaKenzie Estate, Pierre-Léon Pinot Noir 2006, Willamette Valley, OR, $38.00
With a beautifully perfumed nose accompanied by a note of fresh raspberries, this wine continues to deliver on the palate with raspberry, earth, minerality and an undercurrent of wet leaves.

Penner-Ash, Syrah 2006, Oregon, $32.00
Produced in the northern Rhone Valley tradition, this Syrah is co-fermented with 1.5% Viognier. The nose is a mix of plum, berries and floral. Its dry, medium+-bodied palate has a nice, ripe tannic grip with flavors of plum, spice and leather, culminating in long length.

Amity Vineyards, Late Estate Harvest Riesling 2004, Willamette Valley, OR, $15.00 (375 ml)
This late harvest Riesling offers peach, apricot and honey aromas on the nose, joined by developing and floral notes in the mouth. A true dessert wine, it provides significant sweetness on the palate, which is beautifully balanced with vibrant acidity.

California wine is not just for dummies – book review

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I was delighted to have the opportunity to review the newly released California Wine for Dummies book by Ed McCarthy and Mary Ewing-Mulligan since the pair are so well respected as writers and educators.

However, I admit to a certain negative bias given that it was part of the “for Dummies” series. I had never read any of the “for Dummies” books previously distaining the assumption that a lack of knowledge on the subject made one a dummy. Moreover, I think it is somewhat insulting to address people in this manner. Accordingly, upon receiving the book, when I read the book in public (i.e. on the subway), I found myself wishing that it had been prominently marked as a “Review” copy.

Despite my predisposition toward the book, I was pleasantly surprised at its quality given the format and premise.

Ed and Mary have a great sense of humor and forthright approach, both of which are infused throughout the book. The book is really well designed with a series of icons that permits the reader to easily navigate each chapter in search of the desired information.

The book is great as a reference on California wines, but would also be useful as an adjunct to other travel resources, when planning a trip to a particular California wine region. It may also be of assistance with wine purchases with Ed and Mary’s lists of reliable wines for each grape variety and within various price bands.

Grand Cru Grapevine: A River Runs Through It (March 2009)

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With the excessively snow-filled season, I think most of us are ready for winter to be over. Accordingly, March’s arrival and its hints at Spring, which is yet to come, is most welcome. However, despite the bad weather, February found Grand Cru Classes keeping busy with media appearances and teaching opportunities.

In concert with Valentine’s Day, Tracy “appeared” on Big Blend magazine’s Champagne Sundays radio show in early February to talk about Sex, Wine & Chocolate. If you missed this broadcast, you can hear the interview online. She will be penning a new column for Big Blend magazine – Words of Winedom – under the title of Grand Cru Guru and will be periodically featured on their radio shows. Her next “appearance” will be April 27 at 3:30 PM EST on Eat, Drink & Be Merry on the topic of wines to accompany burgers & BBQ.

Also, while not wine related, both Tracy and Jared taped a segment for the Tyra Banks Show, which should air later this month.

Of course, live appearances included our Long Island wines class at City Winery, held on February 26. We are grateful to: Comtesse de Therese, Macari Vineyards, Martha Clara Vineyards, Peconic Bay Winery, Waters Crest and Wölffer Estate for their generosity and support in making this event a success!

Looking ahead, Sex, Wine & Chocolate returns to New York on March 19. Women only are invited to please join us at 7:00 PM for an evening of sensuality and decadence. Please see our website to sign up or see more details.

In addition, Tracy’s Great Grapes! series at New York University’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies begins March 24 at 6:30. As a reminder, registration is through NYU only.

And, for your drinking pleasure at home, this month we turn our attention to the wine regions scattered along the Loire River, which should delight your palate as well as your pocketbook.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick

COO: Cork Opening Officer

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

The Loire River is the longest navigable river in France, covering a distance of 629 miles and stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the center of France before heading south. Here, in the land of castles and Kings, French royalty would spend their summers in the countryside away from the hustle and bustle of Parisian city life, a precursor to the Hamptons summer season. From West to East, there are four wine areas within the greater Loire Valley region: Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine and Central Vineyards. With the vast distance covered, a diversity of climates, grapes and wines exist, making the river among the only threads that tie this large wine region together. However, despite their differences, most of these wines are quite food friendly and offer great value.

At the western coast, along the Atlantic Ocean, visitors find themselves in Nantes, where the Melon de Bourgogne grape is produced into Muscadet, a wine with dry, crisp acidity and citrus and mineral notes. The best wines hail from Sevre-et-Maine and are labeled as such. In addition, wines labeled “sur lie” are those which have sat on the lees (spent yeast cells) for at least six months, which imparts a yeastiness, and are generally richer and fuller-bodied. Muscadets pair beautifully with the shellfish which abound in the port, especially oysters and mussels.

Moving inland and east, the climate changes as do the grape varieties. In Anjou-Saumur, we find Chenin Blanc, which has versatility and then some, with the ability to produce outstanding wines in nearly all styles – dry, sweet, still, sparkling, youthful and aged. Dry whites include Savennieres (which is particularly age worthy) while Coteaux du Layon, Quarts de Chaume and Bonnezeaux are the product of grapes, which have been affected by noble rot, creating unctuous dessert wines. Sparkling wines from this area are made in both fully sparkling and petillant (1/2 pressure) styles. A profusion of rosés abound ranging from dry (Rosé de Loire) and slightly sweet (Cabernet d’Anjou and Cabernet de Saumur) to sweet (Rosé d’Anjou). In addition, some Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Gamay are grown here to produce dry, fruity light-bodied reds found under the appellations of AC Anjou, AC Saumur and AC Saumur-Champigny.

Further inland, Touraine sports a continental climate, with more extreme temperature variations from winter to summer. This is the largest area within the Loire, with a wide variety of wines produced. White wines range from the dry Sauvignon de Touraine and AC Touraine, both made from Sauvignon Blanc, to AC Vouvray, produced from 100% Chenin Blanc. As with the Chenin Blanc in Anjou-Saumur, Vouvrays may be dry, medium-sweet or sweet, and may be still or sparkling. The wine style may be designated on the label, i.e. sec (dry) or moelleux(sweet). High quality red wines, made from Cabernet Franc, tend to exhibit herbaceous and raspberry notes in AC Chinon, with similar, but fuller-bodied wines coming from AC Bourgeuil and AC St-Nicholas-de-Bourgeuil. Red wines labeled as AC Touraine are a blend of Gamay and Cabernet Franc.

At the furthest point east, the Central Vineyards serve as the heartland of Sauvignon Blanc, producing wines, which are more mineral and less fruit-forward than their New Zealand brethren, primarily due to the complex soils found here. Key appellations include: AC Sancerre, AC Pouilly Fume, AC Menetou-Salon, AC Quincy and AC Reuilly. With its reputation for high quality wines, Sancerre can become a little pricey, but these latter appellations are less well-known and are thus, generally less expensive. Produced in smaller quantities, red Sancerre is made from Pinot Noir, which makes sense given the region’s close proximity to Burgundy.

Tasting Notes

Bouvet Rosé Excellence Brut NV, Loire Valley, France, $13.00
This sparkling wine has a beautiful pale salmon color. Medium aromas of cotton candy, yeasty/leesy notes, floral/blossom and under-ripe strawberries. Dry with medium acidity and medium mousse, it has flavors of ripe strawberry, yeast and watermelon Jolly Rancher, along with its long length. 

Domaine Les Hautes Noëlles, Les Grange Muscadet sur lie, 2005, Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu, France, $10.00
A youthful wine with leesy aromas and notes of apple, citrus, it has medium+ acidity and medium body. The palate includes flavors of lime, yeast and minerality. 

Vincent Raimbault, Vouvray Sec 2004, Vouvray, France, $15.00
On the nose, the youthful aromas of apples, almond and lanolin linger, giving way to flavors of almond, apple and honey and crisp acidity on the palate.

Vincent Gaudry, Sancerre, Melodie de Vielles Vignes 2006 Sancerre, France $22.00
Produced from 50-year old vines, this wine has pronounced aromas of minerality, citrus and grapefruit. The medium+ acidity is joined by flavors of citrus and apple which persist on the palate, followed by a hint of stone in the finish.

Joguet Chinon Cuvee Terroir 2005 Touraine, France $18.00
The nose shows limited fruit notes of berries, oak and vanilla. In the mouth, it is dry, with ripe berry fruit, medium acidity, medium+ tannins, and herbal and woody notes in the finish.

Chateau de Fesle Bonnezeaux 2003, Anjou-Saumur, France, $63.00
This dessert wine provides developing aromas of apricot, orange peel, honey, floral and spice. It is medium sweet on the palate with medium+ acidity and pronounced flavors of apricot, honey, spice coupled by a nutty note underneath its long length.