Category Archives: Bordeaux

Naturally Bordeaux, the Bordelais Go Organic

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With her very apt metaphor, at the recent Naturally Bordeaux event, Mary Gorman-McAdams, MW, explained that big ships are hard to change course, but, with time, they do make the transformation. Similarly, Bordeaux, which is the largest quality wine region in France, has finally made a turn of its own with its more recent embrace of sustainable agriculture. Now that Bordeaux is moving in this new direction, it has been full steam ahead.

Consequently, Bordeaux has significantly increased its acreage of organic vineyards, which, as reported by James Lawther, MW currently stands at 34,333 acres. He further noted that this figure, when added to the biodynamically-certified acreage, accounts for 14% of the region’s vineyards.

Moreover, Mary shared that there has been a collective focus throughout the region on implementing the new Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) certification, a three-tiered system that was launched in France in 2001. This program “encourages farms and vineyards to focus on increasing biodiversity, decreasing the negative environmental impact of their phyto-sanitary strategy (i.e., measures for the control of plant diseases, reducing the use of pesticides and fungicides), managing their fertilizer inputs, and improving water management.” ~Discover Sustainable Wine

The HVE program has been whole-heartedly adopted by the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux which plans to have 100% compliance among Bordeaux producers by 2030. Early adopters, the Cru Bourgeois du Médoc mandated that each chateau must have achieved at least minimum level HVE certification requirements as part of the application process to be considered for Cru Bourgeois status. Lawther advised that it has also been implemented as a requirement by the St.-Emilion appellation. Overall, the Bordelais are taking a holistic picture, including measures that address corporate responsibility.

Other changes in the region include not only an increase in rosé production, but a shift in its approach to producing these wines. To this end, rosé now makes up 4% of Bordeaux’s production and producers are making rosé on purpose these days. Accordingly, today’s wines utilize direct press production instead of the saignée method, which had previously been implemented primarily as a way to beef up the reds. For the most part, the resulting rosé wine made in this manner was an afterthought.

I recently had the pleasure of being introduced (or in one case, reintroduced) to three Bordeaux producers who are actively engaged in organic viticulture at the Naturally Bordeaux event, which was held at Clay Restaurant in New York city’s Harlem neighborhood. Clay was chosen because it is farm-to-table, serving only seasonal, locally-sourced products on its menu. Thus, it was the perfect setting for a dinner featuring sustainable Bordeaux wines.

The wines showed beautifully, providing the opportunity to taste white, rosé and red wines from a variety of vintages. They say the proof is in the pudding and it was clear from this tasting that these are fabulous, well-made wines that you can feel good about drinking given their commitment to the environment. And Clay’s chocolate budino (an Italian pudding) (as well as the entire meal) was fantastic too!

Chateau Fourcas Hosten
Owned by two brothers, Chateau Fourcas-Hosten has a long history on the Left Bank and has been focused on organics and sustainability for the past decade. They achieved HVE3 certification in 2017 and have taken the further step to convert their vines to organic viticulture, starting first with their whites and then expanding to their reds. Full certification of their 50 hectares was received in 2021. Of course, their first goal is to make good wines, and, in this manner, they have recognized the need to adapt the right variety to the right terroir. They have also made investments in the winery as well.

Chateau La Dauphine
Situated on the Right Bank, this historic chateau comprises 160 acres of vineyards with a mix of limestone, clay and molasse soils. The property itself dates to the late 1600s, with a more modern history dating to 2001 when the Halley family purchased the estate and invested 10 million Euros to significantly improve the land and winery. Chateau de la Dauphine earned organic certification in 2015, the same year that the property was sold to the Labrune family. It has since added biodynamic methods as well. Among other changes in the vineyards, they have been increasing their plantings of Cabernet Franc due to their soil types as well as due to climate change.

Chateau Jean Faure
This St.-Emilion Grand Cru Classé producer can trace its origins to a deed dated 1526. It has, of course, changed hands numerous times since then, with its latest acquisition in 2004, when it was purchased by Anne and Olivier Decelle. Their first certified organic vintage was 2017. Since 2020, they have engaged in biodynamic practices and will earn full certification from Biodyvin in 2023. Extensive research has been done on the estate’s predominantly clay terroir, which has always been heavily planted to Cabernet Franc (60%). This will prove to be even more useful as temperatures rise, given that Cabernet Franc has a longer maturity than Merlot.

MENU & TASTING NOTES

First course: Radicchio, spiced walnut, aged balsamic, parmigiano

Chateau Fourcas Hosten Blanc 2020, Listrac-Medoc, Bordeaux
Planted on limestone soils, which helps preserve the beautiful acidity, this wine is a blend of 67% Sauvignon Blanc, 18% Sauvignon Gris, and 15% Semillon. It offers up herbal and citrus aromas on the nose, giving way to riper pineapple on the bright palate, culminating with long length.

Chateau La Dauphine Rosé 2021, Fronsac, Bordeaux
This very pale hued rosé brings together 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, grown on a plot earmarked specifically for the production of rosé. Instead of a maceration, they use a pneumatic press to extract the juice and a touch of color. This wine was first made in 2016, when Monsiur Labrune decided to produce a rosé especially for his wife. With slight herbs and delicate strawberry and melon fruit, the palate is vibrant with a hint of salinity and long length.

Main course: Confit duck leg, carrot, smoked farro, collard greens, sumac
Side dishes: Mushrooms with thyme and shallot | Duck fat potatoes, with parsley and parmigiano

Chateau Fourcas Hosten 2018, Listrac-Medoc, Bordeaux
This blend of 58% Merlot, 38.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc displays plum, other black fruit, oak and vanilla, with firm ripe tannins and good length.

Chateau Jean Faure 2015, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, St.-Emilion, Bordeaux
Produced with 50% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot and 5% Malbec from a very sunny vintage, this wine offered up ripe, spicy, red fruit, along with freshness, culminating in long length.

Chateau La Dauphine 2012, Fronsac, Bordeaux
A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, this is beautifully developed with black and red fruit, ripe tannins, and very long length.

Dessert: Chocolate budino, spiced candied pecan, meringue

Chateau Jean Faure 2010, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, St.-Emilion, Bordeaux
Bring together the same blend as the 2015 vintage, this wine was still quite fresh despite its age. Showing some development, with aromas and flavors of blackberry, herbs, oak, and vanilla, with ripe tannins and long length.


Behind Big Bottles of Bordeaux

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Kicking off Women’s History Month, a group of female wine professionals descended upon New York with big bottles (3-Liters, to be specific) of Bordeaux. These rare, double-magnum sized wines were poured by the glass during the week of March 2-8 at 66 restaurants around the city. The wines and the women showcased the diversity of Bordeaux with dry and sweet whites as well as the more well-known reds.

In conjunction with this state-wide promotion of “Strong Women Make Big Bordeaux Bottles,” members of the press were invited to take a VIP wine tour to visit four restaurants featured in the event to taste the wines and meet some of the women behind the bottles: Rita Jammet, Sophie Solnicki-Thierry, Caroline Perromat and Sylvia Courselle.

Our first stop was Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, where we were introduced to Rita, who is the former owner of the esteemed (and now closed) La Caravelle restaurant. She and her husband began producing wines for the restaurant, launching first a Champagne and then a Bordeaux in 1995, which they continued making after the restaurant closed. Their small production La Caravelle wine is made from grapes sourced within the Listrac-Medoc appellation and is made only in good years. At the wine bar, sommelier André Compeyre paired her La Caravelle 2008 with Beef Bressola Croque with Comte cheese.

Next, we arrived at 701 West at the Edition Hotel in the heart of Times Square. This luxury restaurant and cocktail bar is the first and only fine dining establishment in the neighborhood and was awarded three stars from The New York Times. Among the beautifully appointed dark wood, Sophie Solnicki-Thierry of Chateau Forcas-Hosten provided us with the history of the estate. The property was previously owned by a group of Americans, but has more recently been under new ownership, which has breathed new life into the property. JF Restaurants’ Beverage Director, Amy Racine, matched her Cedres d’Hosten 2012 with braised lamb flatbread and eggplant.

Switching gears from red to white, we headed to O Ya at the ParkSouth Hotel. Here, we heard from Caroline Perromat, of Chateau de Cerons. Perromat and her husband Xavier, took over management of the family estate in 2012, situated within the tiny sub-appellation of Cerons, within the Graves area. Caroline shared that she and her husband now work together at the estate and talked about the complexity and challenges in making a white wine compared to making a red one. Her Chateau de Cerons 2017 was beautifully paired with shima aji sashimi by Chelsea Carrier, Beverage Director for the hotel.

  • La Caravelle
  • Amy Racine and Sophie Solnicki-Thierry
  • Chateau de Cerons
  • Caroline Perromat
  • Sushi at O Ya
  • Sylvie Courselle
  • Bruno Almeida

Last, but certainly not least, we joined Sylvie Courselle, from Chateau Thieuley at Tocqueville. The family-owned estate of Chateau Thieuley was initially in the hands of Francis Courselle, but when his two daughters, Sylvie and Marie, graduated with degrees in agricultural engineering and enology, it was clear that they were ready to take over the business. Today, Sylvie focuses on sales, while Marie manages the technical aspects of winemaking. Tocqueville’s sommelier, Bruno Almeida chose to show the Chateau Thieuley 2015 with gougeres and steak au poivre with bone marrow.
Beyond the female focus, there was much to learn about Bordeaux itself, which has undergone quite a transformation as of late. Today’s Bordeaux has embraced sustainability, with an aggressive agenda to shift toward organic farming, which is particularly difficult in Bordeaux’s maritime climate.

While the emphasis on indigenous grapes remains, there has been a shift from exclusively blended wines to the production of some single variety wines and a stronger promotion of dry whites, which account for 9% of total production. Moreover, the region is keenly aware of the impact of climate change, which, for the most part, has been favorable in terms of more consistent quality from vintage to vintage, but looms large as a potential threat in the future as things (literally) heat up. Accordingly, last year Bordeaux became the first French region to permit new grape varieties to be used in an effort to combat rising temperatures. There are four new red and three new white grape varieties that have been added to the list of authorized grapes.

And, while what happens in the vineyard is extremely important, the people behind the wine are equally important. In this regard, a new generation of winemakers and vineyard managers have come to the forefront of the industry. These professionals have often grown up in the region, but are much more well-traveled with experience beyond Bordeaux than their predecessors were. Consequently, they bring back diverse expertise which informs their winemaking and grape growing. And, as was evident with this campaign – many of those newcomers are female, taking on the roles of owners, winemakers, cellar masters and marketers. A new day has certainly dawned in Bordeaux and it is exciting to see what is happening.

Michelin Guide Takes on Full Ownership of Parker’s Wine Advocate

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At a press conference for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, wherein they announced that Michelin Guide had upped its stake in the wine publication to full ownership, we were introduced to ten discoveries of the year from each of the magazine’s wine reviewers.

A South African Chardonnay had been chosen by Anthony Mueller (who focuses on South Africa and Washington State) for its precision and focus as well as the maverick behind the wine ‘s Lismore label, Samantha O’Keefe. He noted that the wine’s characteristics harken back to the grape’s Burgundian roots.

California and Oregon Editor, Erin Brooks, offered up a California Chardonnay from Mikey Giugni, owner and winemaker of Scar of the Sea. I was impressed by the youthful exuberance of Mikey as well as the depth of his wine. The 32-year old engineer turned winemaker uses old, neutral oak for his wines, resulting in an integrated wine, with a richness and roundness on the palate.

Editor-in-Chief, Lisa Perrotti-Brown, wanted remind readers that St. Emilion is capable of delivering elegance and finesse with her choice of Poesia coming into its own after having been purchased in 2013 by Helene Garcin-Leveque and her husband, Patrice. The wine is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc and provides floral, earth and mineral character on the nose and palate.

It was lovely to taste the Domaines Lupier La Dama, the discovery from reviewer Luis Gutierrez. And, interesting and fun to meet the winery’s owner, Elisa Ucar, who seemed familiar (and which I later confirmed), I had met when I visited Navarra back in 2011. A beautiful Austrian Riesling and elegant Champagne rounded out the tasting discoveries for me.

Established in 1978 by Robert Parker as a bi-monthly newsletter, with only himself as the wine reviewer, the Wine Advocate has grown significantly in the past 41 years, with 10 reviewers, 400,000 wine reviews and generating 30,000 new reviews annually. This recent acquisition by Michelin brings together enology and gastronomy and seeks to raise the global presence of the Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate brand, with an emphasis on emerging wine markets and an enlarged digital presence. It will be interesting to see what happens with this next chapter of this storied wine review publication.

LIST of WINES
Lismore Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2017, Western Cape, South Africa, $45.00
94 points

Scar of the Sea Chardonnay Seven Leagues 2017, Santa Maria Valley (CA), USA, $37.00
93 points

Chateau Poesia 2016, Saint Emilion, Bordeaux, France, $39.00
94 points

Domaines Lupier La Dama 2015, Navarra, Spain, $43.00
96 points

Martin Muthenthaler Riesling Viesslinger Stern 2017, Wachau, Austria, $48.00
Score not yet published

Ulysse Collin Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Roises NV, Champagne, France, $146.00
98 points

NB: Wines are listed in the order mentioned in the article; scores are from the respective editor.

Pairing Beyond the Ordinary

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Once, at a trade event, a woman advised me that the wine I was tasting went well with food. Well, duh! Wine has always been a beverage meant to be enjoyed with a meal and is among the only ones where both are enhanced by one another. In some cultures, drinking wine without food is anathema.

More recently the trend has been to look well beyond the axiom, “What grows together goes together,” in favor of showcasing the flexibility of a given wine by pairing it with less expected culinary options. Think Alsatian Gewürztraminer with Indian curries or Prosecco with sushi.

At Atla, Michelin-starred Cosme’s younger, more casual sibling, Mexican inspired food was served alongside a selection of New Zealand wines from Kim Crawford. This NZ producer has always been one of my go-tos for Sauvignon Blanc, but it was nice to see that the range seems to have been expanded stateside, as we also had the opportunity to taste the Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Rosé and Pinot Noir. Adding a further twist to the evening, dessert was a Mexican Hot Chocolate (recipe below), featuring the Pinot Noir. This was served after I left, so I didn’t get a chance to taste it, but with the cold rain pouring down that evening, I am sure it was a welcome treat.

Image courtesy of Susannah Gold

A few blocks away, I was introduced to the wines of Lugana, a small Italian wine region, which spans both Lombardy and the Veneto. These wines, primarily produced from the Trebbiano di Soave grape variety, may be dry, sparkling or, in the case of late harvest, sweet, dessert style wines. During the dinner at La Pizza Fresca, these beautiful white wines were more traditionally matched with a traditional Italian meal of arugula salad, beets, pizzas and a selection of fish, chicken and meat.

Among the less traditional decisions was choosing to pair these white wines with short ribs, but it worked well due to the richness, depth and full-bodied nature of many of the wines. My tasting notes are a bit spotty, but I was particularly impressed with the light, freshness of the Olivini Lugana DOC 2016, the complexity and richness of the Selva Capuzza Lugana Riserva DOC Menasso 2013 and the beautiful balance of the Margona Lugana DOC Vendemmia Tardiva dessert wine.

Both the Kim Crawford and Lugana events worked well primarily due to the basic pairing principle of ensuring that the wines had sufficient acidity to go well with the various dishes. Accordingly, their crisp, clean nature meant that one’s palate was cleansed between bites and ready for more, while simultaneously they highlighted the flavors in the accompanying food; an overall reminder that simple rules can serve us well even when we think we are breaking them.

The next night found us in Williamsburg at an unusual venue for the launch of Enjoy la Vie from Bordeaux negociant, Cordier. Entering through a loading dock, we were immediately struck by the quirky, high-ceilinged, warehouse-style space of ACME Studios. The space appears to be more regularly used for photo shoots, but it was a fun place to explore these new, entry-level wines.

The focus was on decidedly on France, with the classic pairing of cheeses and charcuterie. Similarly, attendees were invited to don a beret, grab a baguette and pose for a photo, instantly transformed (and immortalized) into cute, French clichés. But, despite the expected match, the event was far from boring and not all things were classically French. Namely, the brass band with its bold and boisterous jazz music meant that this was not a typical Bordeaux tasting.

With regard to the wines themselves, I was more impressed with the Bordeaux Blanc and Bordeaux Rouge wines than the varietally-labeled Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. Regardless, I had a great time at the event. Most likely because I was paired with my wonderful husband. Which just underscores that context and company are is often just as important as the cuisine.

 

 

 

MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE
INGREDIENTS:
4 oz Kim Crawford Pinot Noir
2 oz dairy milk or non-dairy milk (almond is a good option)
3 Tbsp powdered baking cocoa
1 oz coffee liqueur
1 Tbsp brown sugar
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
Pinch chili powder

DIRECTIONS:
Pre-warm an 8-10 oz coffee mug. In a saucepan, combine chocolate powder and brown sugar with milk to make into a rich syrup. Add coffee liqueur and Kim Crawford Pinot Noir. Stir until ingredients are hot. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla extract and ground cinnamon. Pour into pre-warmed mug and garnish with whole cinnamon stick and pinch of chili powder.

France and India, A Marriage Made in the Kitchen

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In an interesting twist to the typical press lunch, wine brand Vinadeis presented a subset of its portfolio alongside Indian cuisine at New York City’s Junoon restaurant.  Named for the Hindi word for passion, the Michelin-starred, fine dining establishment fuses together India’s culinary history and the Chef’s modern sensibility. Wine Director, Michael Dolinski carefully curated the restaurant’s existing menu to identify the best pairings to show off the selection of whites, rosés and reds.

Formerly known as Val d’Orbieu, Vinadeis was founded in Corbières back in 1967. The company has now expanded its purview beyond the borders of Languedoc and includes activities in the Rhone Valley as well as in Bordeaux. Today, there are approximately 20,000 hectares of vineyards under its management.

While many of its projects involve bulk wine, large brands and cooperatives, Vinadeis is especially proud of the estates and chateaux under its umbrella. Benoit Roussillon, Head of North America for Vinadeis (pictured above), was quick to point out that behind each estate, there is a family and a story. And, moreover, their aim is to respect the story of those families in pursuit of crafting the highest quality wines.

Held just the week before the Thanksgiving holiday, a time when many consumers panic about the best wine(s) to serve with the cacophony of food on the bountiful table, the Vinadeis event was a unique illustration of how well the French wines lent themselves to an unlikely pairing of the diverse flavors and textures of Indian food. Presented family-style, attendees had the opportunity to sample several dishes with each course, matched with two or three wines.

The luncheon first kicked off with Butter Garlic Shrimp and Saloni Macchi, a salmon dish, served with pickled cucumber, onion relish. These two dishes were paired with the rosé and white.

The dry and fresh Château de Jonquières Rosé Cuvée Cersius 2015 AOP Languedoc, a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Cinsault, matched nicely with the shrimp with its cherry and herb aromas and flavors. Situated near Narbonne, the Château de Jonquières property was previously a Cistercian granary, which belonged to the Abbey of Fontfroide.

The 100% Chardonnay Domaine de Cazelles Verdier, Les pierres qui chantent 2015 IGP Pays d’Oc, was unusually aged in Acacia wood, given it a woody and spicy, yet not oaky, flavor with lots of cloves, and married beautifully with the salmon. Owned by the Verdier family since 1713, Domaine de Cazelle Verdier is known for its chalky soils.

The Murg Roulade Korma – minced chicken with a purée of nuts – was served with two reds: Château Notre Dame du Quatourze Rouge Nautica 2014, AOP Languedoc and Domaine de Cazelles Verdier, Les pierres qui chantent 2014, AOP Minervois. Both wines are Rhone-style blends with Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Carignan.

Presently owned by Georges and Suzanne Ortola, the name Chateau Notre Dame du Quatourze refers to a tax paid to the castle (formerly owned by the archdiocese) by the local farmers. This unoaked red is organic and biodynamic, with nice, bright red fruit.

From the same producer as the Chardonnay, the Domaine de Cazelles Verdier Minervois offers up intense, concentrated red and black fruit.

The third course consisted of Awadhi Raan, a leg of lamb with saffron and nuts; Nadru Matar Makhana with lotus root, English peas, and roasted tomato sauce; and Daal Makhni, black lentils, kidney beans, chickpeas in a tomato cream sauce, as well as sides of Pulao Rice and Butter Naan.

With this last set of savory dishes, we headed to Bordeaux for a trio of reds: Château Valade “Cuvée Renaissance” 2012, AOP Saint-Émilion Grand Cru; Château Brown 2012, AOP Pessac-Léognan; and Prieuré des Couleys de Meyney 2010, AOP Saint-Estèphe.

The Merlot-dominant (90%) Château Valade “Cuvée Renaissance” 2012 was bright with red fruit and slight spice notes. The property has been in the family since 1878, with the current generation Paul and Lorette Valade at the helm for more than 30 years.

With an almost equal proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the Château Brown 2012 displayed darker red fruit, with a plush texture and firmer tannins. The chateau dates to the medieval period but was named for the Scottish merchant John Lewis Brown, in the late 18th century.

Given its blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Petit Verdot, the Prieuré des Couleys de Meyney 2010 was the most full-bodied and tannic of the three, with lots of black fruit, herbal, spice and cedar aromas and flavors. Originally built as a convent, the Château de Meyney property dates to 1662, placing it among the oldest in the Médoc.

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A Celebration of Love, Life & Bordeaux

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It was time. The older Bordeaux wines we had collected were coming into their own and it was time to taste them.

We selected ten wines from the cellar and assembled an equally stellar group of friends for a multi-course dinner at our home in September.

The line-up was impressive, but perhaps the piece de resistance was the Carruades de Lafite 2000, Château Lafite Rothschild’s second wine. Purchased through Sherry-Lehmann back in 2001 through a Future’s campaign*, the wine represented our first major foray into the wine world and marked the occasion of our fifth year of marriage.

The traditional gift for a fifth wedding anniversary is wood and I racked my brain for months on what to get hubby. Finally, I discovered the concept of wine futures: buying wine before it has been bottled and released (and, generally, still aging in oak barrels at the time). Consequently, it was an appropriate gift and one that we would both appreciate as we were just getting our bearings in wine.

We had visited Bordeaux on our belated honeymoon trip in 1999 and very much enjoyed these wines, but still didn’t know a lot about wine in general. Accordingly, we associated much of our love of wine with Bordeaux.

As luck would have it, the object of the Futures were the much vaunted 2000s, which meant high praise and high prices. Getting over my initial sticker shock, I pulled out my copy of Kevin Zraly’s Windows on the World Complete Wine Course (who incidentally teaches his 40th and last class this fall) and read up on the Bordeaux Classification of 1855. I couldn’t afford the top growths; instead, I selected seven different bottles of wine, choosing third growths, a fifth growth, several second wines from top producers and a St. Emilion Grand Cru for a total expenditure of $236.00 – quite pricey for us at the time.

With only a single bottle of each, we had been reluctant to open any of these special wines previously, but with over 40 bottles of Bordeaux in our cellar, the impending arrival of our 20th wedding anniversary was as good as an excuse as any to justify their consumption.

We carefully crafted a menu to highlight the wines and chose pairings from the Left and Right Banks to provide the opportunity to compare Cabernet-dominant and Merlot-dominant wines, respectively.

And, of course, we ended the meal with a lovely aged Sauternes, giving guests the option of finishing off on a sweet or savory note, or both!

Overall, the dinner was a perfect marriage of good food, good wines and good company as well as a wonderful celebration of our continued partnership both in the kitchen and out.

Dinner
Hamachi Crudo
Marinated Yellowtail Tuna with Jicama & Greens
Château La Louvière Blanc 2011, Pessac-Léognan

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rack of Lamb
Herb & Mustard-Crusted Islandic Lamb with Zucchini and Carrot Purée
Château La Fleur Peyrabon 2010, Pauillac
Château La Tour Figeac 2008, St. Emilion Grand Cru

 

 

 

 

 

 

Magret de Canard
Roasted Duck Breast with Blackberries and a side of Duck Fat Potatoes
Château d’Armailhac 2005, Pauillac
Château Les Hauts-Conseillants 2005, Lalande de Pomerol

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheese Course
Fort Saint Antoine Comté (Aged 36 mos), Burgundy, France
~and~
Mrs. Quicke’s Cheddar (Aged 24 mos), Devonshire, England
Château Giscours 2001, Margaux
Château Beau-Séjour Bécot 2001, St. Emilion Grand Cru
Carruades de Lafite 2000, Pauillac
Château Certan de May 1998, Pomerol

Dessert
Bloc de Foie Gras
Served with Roasted Figs and Toast Points
~and~
Crème Brûlée
Caramel Custard with Burnt Sugar Crust
Château Doisy-Védrines 1998, Sauternes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*NB: When buying wine futures, it is imperative that you work with a trusted agent or retailer since the company will take your money now, but you won’t receive the wines for two years.

 

Goldilocks and the Crus Bourgeois

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Once upon a time, there was a little girl named Goldilocks who went for a walk in the forest. After walking for awhile, she came upon a house. She knocked and, when no one answered, she walked right in.

At the table in the kitchen, there were three bowls of porridge. Goldilocks was hungry (walks in the forest tend to do that) and proceeded to taste the porridge from the first bowl.

“This porridge is too hot!” she exclaimed.

Next, she tasted the porridge from the second bowl.

“This porridge is too cold,” she said

So (ever the optimist), she tasted the last bowl of porridge.

“Ahhh, this porridge is just right,” she said happily and ate it all up.

While we know that the bears soon returned home to find Goldilocks fast asleep in Baby Bear’s bed, we can learn a lot from Goldilocks (and not just the part about staying out of people’s –and bear’s– homes).

I recently had the opportunity to present a class on the Crus Bourgeois wines to the staff members of Bottle Rocket Wine & Spirit.

Since it was late (9:00 PM on a Thursday night), cold (polar vortex anyone?) and that they were likely to be tired (did I mention it was late?), I knew that I couldn’t give them too many facts and details. Not only would they easily forget them, it would simply be “too much” information.

I also knew that I couldn’t just talk about the Crus Bourgeois because the assembled group of employees possessed a varied set of existing knowledge about Bordeaux. Such an approach would provide “too little” information. I had to ensure that everyone had at least a basic understanding of the Bordeaux wine region.

Thus, I spent some time reviewing the essential elements of Bordeaux – climate, grape varieties, wine styles and appellations – before discussing and tasting the Crus Bourgeois wines. I acknowledged that some of this would be review for them and was careful not to dwell on irrelevant details. In addition, I made sure to emphasize the information that would be most useful to them in selling Bordeaux wine to their customers.

When I was finished with my presentation, the General Manager pronounced that what I had delivered to his staff was “just right.” I’m sure Goldilocks would be pleased.

Looking to expand your knowledge on Bordeaux and the Crus Bourgeois?

The inaugural issue of my Drink Wisely magazine was “All About Bordeaux,” but admittedly might be “too much” content for some readers. For a more general introduction to Bordeaux, see my Examiner article on Decoding Bordeaux (possibly “too little” for others). Finally, my Wine Portfolio article on the current status of the Crus Bourgeois might be “just right” to bring you up to speed on this important Bordeaux wine category.

Searching High and Low for Bordeaux (Grand Cru Grapevine: April 2012)

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At a recent Wine Media Guild lunch featuring Château d’Issan and Château Rauzan-Segla, it was stated that, “as Bordeaux goes, so does the whole industry,” with the further comment that, it was a “lynchpin by which other regions measure themselves.” And, with the iconic nature of these two Margaux producers, it is not surprising that the wines showed quite well that afternoon. Several months earlier, four Pauillac châteaux – Château Lynch Bages, Château Pontet-Canet, Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Clerc-Milon – gave equal pleasure to the assembled journalists.

However, with the price of the classified growths reaching astronomical figures, many wine drinkers feel priced out of the Bordeaux market. Yes, it’s true, wines from pedigreed châteaux have become the object of collectors who may never drink a drop rather than the cherished claret they once were. Such wines are the result of high scores and top reputations, which have made them more prized for their investment value than for their hedonistic value. But, thankfully, the majority of Bordeaux is still very much for drinking.

As an extremely large French wine region, representing 26% of all AOC (quality) wine produced in the country, Bordeaux is home to 63 appellations. Yet, Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC together comprise 55% of the total production. And, despite the volume this entails, Bordeaux has thousands of small, family-run estates such as Château Penin run by Patrick Carteyon, the fifth generation of his family to work in wine. Similarly, at Château de Bonhoste, winemaking is the domain of Yannick Fournier, while his sister, Sylvaine, and mother, Colette, tend to the vineyard.

Although these two appellations stem from grapes grown on both sides of the Garonne River, on its own, the Right Bank has been the scene of recent change. A new appellation – Côtes de Bordeaux – was established in 2009, providing these wines with more market recognition. For example, wines previously labeled as Blaye or Côtes de Francs were not instantly recognizable. Now, the name Bordeaux is featured prominently on their labels.

While not as prestigious as the wines from the various classifications, wines from these three appellations offer great value, with most under $20.00 and many in the $10.00-13.00 range. And, at these prices, you can take a chance on a bottle or two to try before splashing out on a whole case.

Château La Rivalerie, Côtes de Bordeaux Blanc 2009, Bordeaux, France, $N/A
(60% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sauvignon Gris and 20% Semillon)
This wine offers aromas of oak, bruised apple, citrus and ginger on the nose. With bright acidity and medium body, the flavors echo the nose and linger throughout the long finish.

Château La Goutere, Bordeaux Rouge 2009, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
(77% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc)
Hailing from vineyards located near Saint Emilion, this wine showed aromas of blackcherry, vanilla and a hint of oak on the nose. Its palate also offered notes of earth and herbs along with medium tannins.

Château Penin, Grande Selection Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2008, Bordeaux, France, $13.00
(100% Merlot)
Blackberry, plum and some herbal character were present on the nose. Showing a supple texture, the wine had good acidity, with flavors of blackberry, plum, dried herbs and slight oak notes.

Château Peynaud, Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2009, Bordeaux, France, $12.00
(50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc)
Aromas of spice, oak, vanilla and black cherry greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is very fruity, with similar notes.

Château Saincrit, Vieilles Vignes Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge 2008, Bordeaux, France, $18.00
(70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvigon and Cabernet Franc)
This château is owned by Florence Prudhomme who took over the property in 2003. Showing aromas of plum, raisin and spice on the nose, the palate gives way to blackcherry and oak.

The Circle of Life

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From year to year, winemakers get the opportunity to begin again and make a new wine from a new harvest. Each vintage sharing some of the same elements as the one before, yet making its own mark on the world.

The newest vintage of wines from Bordeaux’s Right Bank (Rive Droite) was premiered at a Le Cercle Rive Droite tasting in March. Accordingly, barrel samples from 2010 were on offer from chateau in Pomerol, St. –Emilion and other Right Bank appellations.

Baronne Guichard owns three separate properties, each with a unique terroir – Chateau Vray Croix de Gay in Pomoerol with gravely soils; Chateau Siaurac in Lalande de Pomerol with clays and gravels; and Chateau Le Prieure in St.-Emilion with soils of limestone and clay. Accordingly, the ability to do a mini-vertical and mini-horizontal tasting presented itself.

Proprietor Paul Goldschmidt describes the Chateau Le Prieure wine as being feminine and notes that the slopes are south-facing. The 2010 was very mineral in character with herbal notes (which Paul qualified as “Herbs de Provence, but under the shade”) and red fruit. The 2008 was similarly herbal with red fruit, but the minerality wasn’t present.

Paul characterizes the wines from Chateau Siaurac as being more masculine and explained that its appellation is known as the “poor man’s Pomerol” due to its lower price. The 2010 was intense with a concentrated nose of blackcherry, while the 2008 had mellowed and showed more red than black fruit.

The sample of Chateau Vray Croix de Gay has a slightly different make-up than its brethren, featuring more Merlot (90% vs. 80%) and thus less Cabernet Franc. The 2010 was concentrated with floral aromas while the palate had firm, tight tannins, blackcherry, some spice and long length. Similarly, the 2008 was rich, lush and ripe, but with the flavors and structure more closely knitted together with time.