Category Archives: France

Naturally Bordeaux, the Bordelais Go Organic

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With her very apt metaphor, at the recent Naturally Bordeaux event, Mary Gorman-McAdams, MW, explained that big ships are hard to change course, but, with time, they do make the transformation. Similarly, Bordeaux, which is the largest quality wine region in France, has finally made a turn of its own with its more recent embrace of sustainable agriculture. Now that Bordeaux is moving in this new direction, it has been full steam ahead.

Consequently, Bordeaux has significantly increased its acreage of organic vineyards, which, as reported by James Lawther, MW currently stands at 34,333 acres. He further noted that this figure, when added to the biodynamically-certified acreage, accounts for 14% of the region’s vineyards.

Moreover, Mary shared that there has been a collective focus throughout the region on implementing the new Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) certification, a three-tiered system that was launched in France in 2001. This program “encourages farms and vineyards to focus on increasing biodiversity, decreasing the negative environmental impact of their phyto-sanitary strategy (i.e., measures for the control of plant diseases, reducing the use of pesticides and fungicides), managing their fertilizer inputs, and improving water management.” ~Discover Sustainable Wine

The HVE program has been whole-heartedly adopted by the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux which plans to have 100% compliance among Bordeaux producers by 2030. Early adopters, the Cru Bourgeois du Médoc mandated that each chateau must have achieved at least minimum level HVE certification requirements as part of the application process to be considered for Cru Bourgeois status. Lawther advised that it has also been implemented as a requirement by the St.-Emilion appellation. Overall, the Bordelais are taking a holistic picture, including measures that address corporate responsibility.

Other changes in the region include not only an increase in rosé production, but a shift in its approach to producing these wines. To this end, rosé now makes up 4% of Bordeaux’s production and producers are making rosé on purpose these days. Accordingly, today’s wines utilize direct press production instead of the saignée method, which had previously been implemented primarily as a way to beef up the reds. For the most part, the resulting rosé wine made in this manner was an afterthought.

I recently had the pleasure of being introduced (or in one case, reintroduced) to three Bordeaux producers who are actively engaged in organic viticulture at the Naturally Bordeaux event, which was held at Clay Restaurant in New York city’s Harlem neighborhood. Clay was chosen because it is farm-to-table, serving only seasonal, locally-sourced products on its menu. Thus, it was the perfect setting for a dinner featuring sustainable Bordeaux wines.

The wines showed beautifully, providing the opportunity to taste white, rosé and red wines from a variety of vintages. They say the proof is in the pudding and it was clear from this tasting that these are fabulous, well-made wines that you can feel good about drinking given their commitment to the environment. And Clay’s chocolate budino (an Italian pudding) (as well as the entire meal) was fantastic too!

Chateau Fourcas Hosten
Owned by two brothers, Chateau Fourcas-Hosten has a long history on the Left Bank and has been focused on organics and sustainability for the past decade. They achieved HVE3 certification in 2017 and have taken the further step to convert their vines to organic viticulture, starting first with their whites and then expanding to their reds. Full certification of their 50 hectares was received in 2021. Of course, their first goal is to make good wines, and, in this manner, they have recognized the need to adapt the right variety to the right terroir. They have also made investments in the winery as well.

Chateau La Dauphine
Situated on the Right Bank, this historic chateau comprises 160 acres of vineyards with a mix of limestone, clay and molasse soils. The property itself dates to the late 1600s, with a more modern history dating to 2001 when the Halley family purchased the estate and invested 10 million Euros to significantly improve the land and winery. Chateau de la Dauphine earned organic certification in 2015, the same year that the property was sold to the Labrune family. It has since added biodynamic methods as well. Among other changes in the vineyards, they have been increasing their plantings of Cabernet Franc due to their soil types as well as due to climate change.

Chateau Jean Faure
This St.-Emilion Grand Cru Classé producer can trace its origins to a deed dated 1526. It has, of course, changed hands numerous times since then, with its latest acquisition in 2004, when it was purchased by Anne and Olivier Decelle. Their first certified organic vintage was 2017. Since 2020, they have engaged in biodynamic practices and will earn full certification from Biodyvin in 2023. Extensive research has been done on the estate’s predominantly clay terroir, which has always been heavily planted to Cabernet Franc (60%). This will prove to be even more useful as temperatures rise, given that Cabernet Franc has a longer maturity than Merlot.

MENU & TASTING NOTES

First course: Radicchio, spiced walnut, aged balsamic, parmigiano

Chateau Fourcas Hosten Blanc 2020, Listrac-Medoc, Bordeaux
Planted on limestone soils, which helps preserve the beautiful acidity, this wine is a blend of 67% Sauvignon Blanc, 18% Sauvignon Gris, and 15% Semillon. It offers up herbal and citrus aromas on the nose, giving way to riper pineapple on the bright palate, culminating with long length.

Chateau La Dauphine Rosé 2021, Fronsac, Bordeaux
This very pale hued rosé brings together 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, grown on a plot earmarked specifically for the production of rosé. Instead of a maceration, they use a pneumatic press to extract the juice and a touch of color. This wine was first made in 2016, when Monsiur Labrune decided to produce a rosé especially for his wife. With slight herbs and delicate strawberry and melon fruit, the palate is vibrant with a hint of salinity and long length.

Main course: Confit duck leg, carrot, smoked farro, collard greens, sumac
Side dishes: Mushrooms with thyme and shallot | Duck fat potatoes, with parsley and parmigiano

Chateau Fourcas Hosten 2018, Listrac-Medoc, Bordeaux
This blend of 58% Merlot, 38.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc displays plum, other black fruit, oak and vanilla, with firm ripe tannins and good length.

Chateau Jean Faure 2015, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, St.-Emilion, Bordeaux
Produced with 50% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot and 5% Malbec from a very sunny vintage, this wine offered up ripe, spicy, red fruit, along with freshness, culminating in long length.

Chateau La Dauphine 2012, Fronsac, Bordeaux
A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, this is beautifully developed with black and red fruit, ripe tannins, and very long length.

Dessert: Chocolate budino, spiced candied pecan, meringue

Chateau Jean Faure 2010, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, St.-Emilion, Bordeaux
Bring together the same blend as the 2015 vintage, this wine was still quite fresh despite its age. Showing some development, with aromas and flavors of blackberry, herbs, oak, and vanilla, with ripe tannins and long length.


The Diversity and Delight of Languedoc Wines

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Nestled in the south of France between the French Riviera and the region of Roussillon, the wines of Languedoc are impressive as well as both food and wallet friendly. If these are not on your radar, they should be given their diversity and sheer delight!

I recently had the pleasure of tasting through a selection of Languedoc wines in a guided tasting with Master Sommelier and owner of Corkbuzz, Laura Maniac. Each wine was beautifully (and deliciously) paired with a small bite, underscoring the ease with which these wines pair with a wide range of cuisine. After our time with Laura, we were led on a brief culinary tour of the Chelsea Market, becoming familiar with other vendors in the venue and the opportunity to sample a few more glasses of Languedoc.



Languedoc’s sunny, Mediterranean climate is tempered with cooling breezes and warm winds, which results in ripe fruit that retains its bright acidity. Thanks to the area’s dry nature, the region has one of the largest organic productions in France with over 30% of producers practicing organic viticulture; another 27% are in progress of converting from conventional practices. In fact, Languedoc launched the world’s first all organic expo — Millesime Bio — in 1993. Additionally, many producers are embracing biodynamics as well. And, with a strong research emphasis on viticulture, centered at L’INRA in Montpellier, the region is well equipped to handle climate change. Moreover, today, the area is home to a quiet revolution as winemakers from elsewhere in France are feeling the pull to make high quality wine within its borders.

Yet, Languedoc is not part of some passing fad. The region boasts 2500 years of wine making history and also lays claim to the discovery of fortification (thanks to Arnaud de Villeneuve in 1285) and sparkling wine production (in 1544 with the creation of Blanquette de Limoux).

The 90,000+ acres of vineyards are planted to 26 different grape varieties, with the majority (59%) of wine production given over to red wine. The balance is equally split among rosé and white wines. Within the vast acreage, there are 20 different appellations within Languedoc, but producers can also choose to bottle their wine under the broader Languedoc AOP. Regardless of the appellation, the wines coming from the region include everyday, inexpensive options, but also collectibles that are showing that this is a region capable of producing at the very top levels.

During the Languedoc event, the wines were custom paired by Chef Yovet Calvario of Corkbuzz; David Seigal, Culinary Director of Lobster Place; and Pablo Lopez, Chef Charcutier of Dickson’s Farmstand Meats.

We started off the tasting with a lusciously aged white wine served with lemon butter shrimp, matching the decadent and rich nature of both the wine and the food. The next bite was arancini with mushrooms, which paired well with a fresh, fruity red. Ricotta crostini (using Laura’s grandmother’s recipe for homemade ricotta) showed spectacularly with a more robust red. The next set of reds went well with an eggplant caponata dish, meatballs in a tomato sauce and chimichurri steak.

At Lobster Place, which has been in business for 45 years, we enjoyed raw oysters and
grilled shrimp, coupled with a fresh white and a fruit-forward rosé, respectively. Then, at Dickson’s, we had the pleasure of seeing how the range of charcuterie brought out the flavors of the wine — a pale rosé and an intense red.

TASTING NOTES

CORKBUZZ
Domaine Les Aurelles, Aurel Blanc 2013, Languedoc, France, $80.00
There are two ex-Bordeaux winemakers behind this wine, which is produced from 100% Roussanne and provides a perfect example of an age-worthy white from this region. Aromas of hazelnut, beeswax and pineapple greet the nose and persist on the dry palate. It is ripe and rich, with good acidity and notes of honey in the long finish.

Cave de Roquebrun, Chemin des Olivettes 2020, Languedoc, France, $13.00
Established in 1967, the Cave de Roquebrun co-op represents 70 winegrowers. This wine brings together 45% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre and 10% Cinsault and displays lots of fresh, red fruit with garrigue/dried herbs, with lavender and pepper especially in finish.

Domaine d’Aupilhac, Lou Maset 2019, Languedoc, France, $23.00
Named for an old, stone hut found in the vineyards of this biodynamic producer, the Lou Maset is intense and angular with fresh, lifted black fruit. A blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, 10% Carignan, 5% Syrah, and 5% Alicante Bouchet, it is quite tannic, with lingering notes of dried orange peel, pepper and herbs.

Jeff Carrel, Les Darons 2019, Languedoc, $15.00
Named “Les Darons” which is an affectionate term used in Parisian suburbs for one’s parents, this is a blend of 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 5% Carignan. It is lush with red and black fruit, woody notes, good, ripe tannins, lots of spice and full body, culminating in long length.

Devois de Perret, Cellier du Pic 2020, Languedoc, France, $14.00
Primarily Syrah, with 25% Grenache, this wine offers up complex aromas of smoke, leather, and dark red cherry. The medium+-bodied palate is fresh with good fruit character and long length.

Château La Negly, Clos des Truffiers 2018, Languedoc, France, $200.00
Originally called Ancely, Château La Negly dates to 1781. Consequently, this wine is produced from some of oldest vines in the region. Bringing together 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache, this is a stunning wine with layers of aromas and flavors. It is very oak dominant, with spice, dill, earth, leather, blackberry, cherries, floral and minerality as well as being rich in texture and tannin, culminating in long length.

LOBSTER PLACE
Château de Lascaux, Garrigue 2021, Languedoc, France, $20.00
This white blend (35% Vermentino, 20% Roussanne, 15% White Grenache, 15% Clairette, 10% Marsanne, and 5% Viognier) offers up fresh fruit and lively acidity with aromas and flavors of unsweetened limeade and tropical fruit with a lovely texture. It paired extremely well with Avelon oysters from Maine.

Gerard Bertrand, Source of Joy 2020, Languedoc, France, $20.00
This organic rosé had a portion of its wine matured in oak barrels, giving it depth and structure on the palate. It shows lots of fresh floral and strawberry notes, with long length.

DICKSON’s FARMSTAND MEATS
Domaine du Pas de l’Escalette, Ze Rozé 2020, Languedoc, France, $13.00
This is a much paler, lighter-bodied rosé, which is the result of a direct press and gentle extraction. With barely any color, it resembles a white more than a rosé, especially with its high acidity, but its berry aromas and flavors belie its true identity as a rosé. 

Domaine de Nizas, Le Clos 2018, Languedoc Pézenas, France, $21.00
Half of this Syrah blend (60% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre and 5% Carignan) spent time in three-year-old French oak barrels. Displaying lots of character and finesse, it is fresh yet tannic, with red fruit and spice, with long length.




Chenin Blanc: A Grand Grape from the Loire Valley

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The Loire Valley is home to grand chateaux and the equally grand, but, perhaps, lesser known grape variety, Chenin Blanc. Discovered between the 10th and 15th centuries, Chenin Blanc has a lengthy history in the Loire Valley, with its name supposedly derived from the monastery of Mont-Chenin near Cormery in Touraine.  

Although Chenin was somewhat abandoned in the Loire in the 1970’s in favor of Cabernet Franc and Gamay, it is finding its deserved resurgence, becoming more popular within wine circles as of late. Moreover, Master Sommelier, Pascaline Lepeltier has been championing the variety for quite some time.

And, while the grape has since migrated to other parts of France, notably the South West, as well as California and South Africa, it is in the Loire Valley (which accounts for 95% of France’s plantings of the variety) that it really shines.

Yet, despite Chenin Blanc’s long tenure in the Loire, it is not easily recognized on the shelf given that it is labeled by geographic appellation, rather than grape name. In this case, some of the important names to know are Saumur and Savennières.

Additionally, Chenin can be somewhat of a chameleon in that it takes well to different types of wine production, producing a wide range of wine styles from bone dry to lusciously sweet, still and sparkling and with or without oak, malo-lactic fermentation and lees aging. Given this diversity of styles, there is a wealth of options from which to choose.

Regardless of production style, among its various characteristics, Chenin is high in acidity making it very food friendly as it cleanses the palate between bites. Its aromas and flavors tend toward fruit: citrus, apples and (the more exotic) quince; floral: honeysuckle and chamomile; and honey, wax, and lanolin.

During this time of social distancing and a greater emphasis on staying home, this is a wonderful option to try a selection of wines paired with your delivery or take-out.

In this vein, I was recently given the opportunity to taste through several iterations of this grape, paired with the Mediterranean cuisine of Extra Virgin NYC. This black owned restaurant, situated in the West Village, draws from “coastal fare from Italy and France” and has been open for 16 years.

My delicious dinner consisted of a pistachio-crusted goat cheese salad with roasted beets, endive, watercress, granny smith apple vinaigrette, followed by mushroom crusted virgin chicken with sweet pea risotto, Cipollini onions and truffle broth. Both dishes were a great match for the Chenin wines.

TASTING NOTES
Domaine de l’Enchantoir Saumur Blanc “Terres Blanches” 2018, Loire Valley, France, $20.00
Run by the Brunet family, this domaine has been farming organically since 2010. Aromas of stone fruit/apricot on the nose give way to a dry, rich and round palate with medium+ acidity, medium body, notes of red apple and very long length.

Chateau d’Epire Savennières 2017, Loire Valley, France, $25.00
Chateau d’Epire is one of the oldest domaines in the Savennières appellation, with a history that dates back to Roman times with ownership by the Bizard family continuously since the 17th century. Exotic notes of lanolin, peach and white flowers dominate the nose and persist on the dry palate, along with high acidity, medium+ body, some minerality and long length.

La Forcine Vouvray Demi Sec 2018, Loire Valley, France, $13.00
Produced by August Bonhomme, La Forcine is widely applauded as a value driven Vouvray. With a pronounced nose of floral and stone fruit notes, this off-dry wine is balanced with medium+/high acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Extra Virgin NYC
259 West 4th Street, New York, NY 10014
Currently open for delivery and take-out as well as limited outdoor dining, proprietors Michelle Gaton and Joey Fortunato are asking for support to close their block to vehicular traffic and permit more space for outdoor eating.

Behind Big Bottles of Bordeaux

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Kicking off Women’s History Month, a group of female wine professionals descended upon New York with big bottles (3-Liters, to be specific) of Bordeaux. These rare, double-magnum sized wines were poured by the glass during the week of March 2-8 at 66 restaurants around the city. The wines and the women showcased the diversity of Bordeaux with dry and sweet whites as well as the more well-known reds.

In conjunction with this state-wide promotion of “Strong Women Make Big Bordeaux Bottles,” members of the press were invited to take a VIP wine tour to visit four restaurants featured in the event to taste the wines and meet some of the women behind the bottles: Rita Jammet, Sophie Solnicki-Thierry, Caroline Perromat and Sylvia Courselle.

Our first stop was Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, where we were introduced to Rita, who is the former owner of the esteemed (and now closed) La Caravelle restaurant. She and her husband began producing wines for the restaurant, launching first a Champagne and then a Bordeaux in 1995, which they continued making after the restaurant closed. Their small production La Caravelle wine is made from grapes sourced within the Listrac-Medoc appellation and is made only in good years. At the wine bar, sommelier André Compeyre paired her La Caravelle 2008 with Beef Bressola Croque with Comte cheese.

Next, we arrived at 701 West at the Edition Hotel in the heart of Times Square. This luxury restaurant and cocktail bar is the first and only fine dining establishment in the neighborhood and was awarded three stars from The New York Times. Among the beautifully appointed dark wood, Sophie Solnicki-Thierry of Chateau Forcas-Hosten provided us with the history of the estate. The property was previously owned by a group of Americans, but has more recently been under new ownership, which has breathed new life into the property. JF Restaurants’ Beverage Director, Amy Racine, matched her Cedres d’Hosten 2012 with braised lamb flatbread and eggplant.

Switching gears from red to white, we headed to O Ya at the ParkSouth Hotel. Here, we heard from Caroline Perromat, of Chateau de Cerons. Perromat and her husband Xavier, took over management of the family estate in 2012, situated within the tiny sub-appellation of Cerons, within the Graves area. Caroline shared that she and her husband now work together at the estate and talked about the complexity and challenges in making a white wine compared to making a red one. Her Chateau de Cerons 2017 was beautifully paired with shima aji sashimi by Chelsea Carrier, Beverage Director for the hotel.

  • La Caravelle
  • Amy Racine and Sophie Solnicki-Thierry
  • Chateau de Cerons
  • Caroline Perromat
  • Sushi at O Ya
  • Sylvie Courselle
  • Bruno Almeida

Last, but certainly not least, we joined Sylvie Courselle, from Chateau Thieuley at Tocqueville. The family-owned estate of Chateau Thieuley was initially in the hands of Francis Courselle, but when his two daughters, Sylvie and Marie, graduated with degrees in agricultural engineering and enology, it was clear that they were ready to take over the business. Today, Sylvie focuses on sales, while Marie manages the technical aspects of winemaking. Tocqueville’s sommelier, Bruno Almeida chose to show the Chateau Thieuley 2015 with gougeres and steak au poivre with bone marrow.
Beyond the female focus, there was much to learn about Bordeaux itself, which has undergone quite a transformation as of late. Today’s Bordeaux has embraced sustainability, with an aggressive agenda to shift toward organic farming, which is particularly difficult in Bordeaux’s maritime climate.

While the emphasis on indigenous grapes remains, there has been a shift from exclusively blended wines to the production of some single variety wines and a stronger promotion of dry whites, which account for 9% of total production. Moreover, the region is keenly aware of the impact of climate change, which, for the most part, has been favorable in terms of more consistent quality from vintage to vintage, but looms large as a potential threat in the future as things (literally) heat up. Accordingly, last year Bordeaux became the first French region to permit new grape varieties to be used in an effort to combat rising temperatures. There are four new red and three new white grape varieties that have been added to the list of authorized grapes.

And, while what happens in the vineyard is extremely important, the people behind the wine are equally important. In this regard, a new generation of winemakers and vineyard managers have come to the forefront of the industry. These professionals have often grown up in the region, but are much more well-traveled with experience beyond Bordeaux than their predecessors were. Consequently, they bring back diverse expertise which informs their winemaking and grape growing. And, as was evident with this campaign – many of those newcomers are female, taking on the roles of owners, winemakers, cellar masters and marketers. A new day has certainly dawned in Bordeaux and it is exciting to see what is happening.

Looking for Affordable Burgundy Bottles? Look to Elden Selections for holiday pours and gifts.

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I recently taught a wine class for the IWAGY wine club in Poughkeepsie, NY titled, “Affordable Southern Burgundy: Great Wines that Won’t Break the Bank.” While the presentation was primarily designed to introduce the audience to the lesser-known Burgundian districts of the Macon and the Cote Chalonnaise, they were eager to know about affordability.

Why? Well, it should come as no surprise to ardent wine lovers that Burgundy is often price prohibitive. As Ethan Fixell wrote in “The Hidden (Affordable) Gems of Burgundy” (1/2/2018), “There’s no gentle way to put this: Burgundy has become stupidly expensive.” And, in his NY Times article, “The Value of Burgundy, Regardless of the Price,” (May 9, 2019), Eric Asimov reinforced this sentiment, saying, “Speaking generally, Burgundy is nowadays the most coveted wine on the planet.[,]” citing the small production capacity and further noting, “The prices of Burgundy have shot upward in the last 20 years, to the point where the best wines are far beyond the means of most people.”

Asimov’s claims are backed by numbers: a Grand Cru Vineyard in the Cote d’Or that was valued at 7 million Euros in 2008 had jumped to 14 million Euros in 2018. And regional vineyards, though much cheaper (70,500 Euros/ha in 2017) are still not a bargain.

These exorbitant real estate prices, coupled with scant quantities – Burgundy production accounts for only 8.6% of all French AOP (quality) wine, 4.1% of all French production overall and only 0.6% of world production – means that it is challenging to find reasonably priced wines from the region. (Source: Vins de Bourgogne)

Burgundy has been producing wine for centuries, with its vignerons honing their craft and truly understanding the nuances of the region’s soils, climate and vineyards. Principally planted to Chardonnay (51%) and Pinot Noir (41%), these wines have become the benchmark for all others of these varieties and, not surprisingly, are highly regarded and sought after.

Yet, despite the dire outlook on overall affordability, it is possible to find more reasonably priced Burgundian wines if you know where to look. One place to check out is online e-tailer, Elden Selections. Founded in 1992 by Eleanor Garvin and Dennis Sherman, expats who have lived and worked in Burgundy for over 30 years, Elden Selections is a direct-to-consumer wine store focused almost exclusively on Burgundy. As such, it is unique in the U.S. and, equally important, they provide a wide range of Burgundian bottles from various appellations and price points within the region.

Elden offers a large selection of “everyday Burgundy” under $40.00 featuring regional and village level wines as well as those from smaller, hard to find appellations such as Irancy. And, in keeping with their desire to satisfy wine-drinking consumers, not wine collectors, the top priced wine is $300; not cheap by any means, but definitely more palatable than the staggering $1,500 or more per bottle that some rare wines can fetch.

Moreover, the wines are sourced from small quantity, minimal-intervention, farmer-made producers, rather than stocking wines from the large negociants. Having lived in the region for years, Eleanor and Dennis have strong relationships with the producers, tasting the wines multiple times to ensure quality.

Further, their site is easy to navigate, packed with educational information about the wines and their producers and permits consumers to purchase as few as one or as many wines as they wish. Case orders are shipped free of charge. Plus, they tout a no-questions-asked return policy (though, to date, no one has exercised this option).

Now is a great time to pick up a mixed case of Burgundy wines to serve with holiday dinners or to give as gifts.

Michelin Guide Takes on Full Ownership of Parker’s Wine Advocate

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At a press conference for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, wherein they announced that Michelin Guide had upped its stake in the wine publication to full ownership, we were introduced to ten discoveries of the year from each of the magazine’s wine reviewers.

A South African Chardonnay had been chosen by Anthony Mueller (who focuses on South Africa and Washington State) for its precision and focus as well as the maverick behind the wine ‘s Lismore label, Samantha O’Keefe. He noted that the wine’s characteristics harken back to the grape’s Burgundian roots.

California and Oregon Editor, Erin Brooks, offered up a California Chardonnay from Mikey Giugni, owner and winemaker of Scar of the Sea. I was impressed by the youthful exuberance of Mikey as well as the depth of his wine. The 32-year old engineer turned winemaker uses old, neutral oak for his wines, resulting in an integrated wine, with a richness and roundness on the palate.

Editor-in-Chief, Lisa Perrotti-Brown, wanted remind readers that St. Emilion is capable of delivering elegance and finesse with her choice of Poesia coming into its own after having been purchased in 2013 by Helene Garcin-Leveque and her husband, Patrice. The wine is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc and provides floral, earth and mineral character on the nose and palate.

It was lovely to taste the Domaines Lupier La Dama, the discovery from reviewer Luis Gutierrez. And, interesting and fun to meet the winery’s owner, Elisa Ucar, who seemed familiar (and which I later confirmed), I had met when I visited Navarra back in 2011. A beautiful Austrian Riesling and elegant Champagne rounded out the tasting discoveries for me.

Established in 1978 by Robert Parker as a bi-monthly newsletter, with only himself as the wine reviewer, the Wine Advocate has grown significantly in the past 41 years, with 10 reviewers, 400,000 wine reviews and generating 30,000 new reviews annually. This recent acquisition by Michelin brings together enology and gastronomy and seeks to raise the global presence of the Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate brand, with an emphasis on emerging wine markets and an enlarged digital presence. It will be interesting to see what happens with this next chapter of this storied wine review publication.

LIST of WINES
Lismore Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2017, Western Cape, South Africa, $45.00
94 points

Scar of the Sea Chardonnay Seven Leagues 2017, Santa Maria Valley (CA), USA, $37.00
93 points

Chateau Poesia 2016, Saint Emilion, Bordeaux, France, $39.00
94 points

Domaines Lupier La Dama 2015, Navarra, Spain, $43.00
96 points

Martin Muthenthaler Riesling Viesslinger Stern 2017, Wachau, Austria, $48.00
Score not yet published

Ulysse Collin Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Roises NV, Champagne, France, $146.00
98 points

NB: Wines are listed in the order mentioned in the article; scores are from the respective editor.

Ferraton’s La Matiniere offers up quality and excellence in the glass

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I have been blessed to have a wide range of wonderful wines in my glass lately, reflecting the diverse array of wines in the world. One wine in particular that stood out is Ferraton Pere & Fils La Matiniere Crozes-Hermitage.

A midway point between Côtes du Rhone and Côte Rôtie in terms of budget, Crozes-Hermitages is a fabulous option when looking to the Rhone Valley. As the Northern Rhône’s largest appellation, it produces 6 to 7 million bottles annually, under similar climatic conditions to nearby Hermitage, featuring the Syrah grape.

Ferraton Père & Fils was founded by Jean Orens Ferraton in 1946. Today, his son Michel serves as winemaker, having inherited the winery from his father. During the 1960s, Michel bought up prime parcels of land, enlarging the estate’s holdings. The company committed to farming biodynamically in 1998 and continues to pursue this approach currently. Not surprising, Ferraton initially established its reputation as a quality producer of estate-bottled wines, but it also serves as a well-regarded négociant, buying up top grapes from local vineyards.

The La Matinière (which translates as early bird) Crozes-Hermitage is named for Michel’s wife, Colette, who is an early riser, and is produced solely from Syrah. The wine is aged for 12 months in oak barrels before being bottled.

TASTING NOTE
Ferraton Père & Fils La Matinière Crozes-Hermitage 2017, Rhone Valley, France, $26.00
Aromas of black cherry, blackberry, sage, dried herbs and a hint of earth greet the nose. The dry palate displays high acidity, medium+ body, and flavors of earth, black cherry, dried herbs, slight woody note and iodine, with long length. This wine offers great value and a spectacular experience.

Loire Valley Reds: Of Castles, Kings and Cabernet Franc

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As a former playground for the Kings of France, the Loire Valley is awash in luxurious castles, but it is equally awash in wonderful wine! Here, grapes have been grown for centuries, dating to the Romans who first planted in the Pays Nantais. Yet it wasn’t until the 5th century that things really got started with some of the earliest mentions of the area’s vineyards made in 528 by Gregoire of Tours in which he cited those in Sancerre and Touraine.

Later, the Loire’s viticultural heritage was squarely in the hands of the church, strongly influenced by both the Augustine and Benedictine monks who understood not only how to make great wine but also how to communicate about and distribute the wines. In this regard, they took full advantage of the local rivers’ safer travel (compared with the roads).

The region’s wine acclaim was further boosted by Henry II Plantagenet, Count of Anjou, when he became king of England in 1154 and permitted only Anjou wines to be served at court (it’s good to be king!), a custom continued by his successors, John Lackland and Henry III.

Today, while often known for its aromatic whites, the Loire Valley is also very adept at crafting high quality reds, namely from Pinot Noir, Gamay and Cabernet Franc. These grapes and others typically deliver fresh, fruity, food-friendly options and should be easily found in your local wine store.

Need some inspiration? Befitting the region’s long and illustrious history, these three wines beautifully illustrate the elegance and ease that the reds of the Loire Valley provide.

Hippolyte Reverdy 
It’s possible that the Hippolyte Reverdy family has made wine as far back as 1600, but it wasn’t until the end of World War II that they began to increase their production, eventually bottling greater and greater quantities under their own label and no longer selling their grapes to the local coopérative. The winery is presently in the hands of Michel Reverdy who joined in his family’s estate in 1971.

Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre Rouge 2016, Loire Valley, France
Sourced from 30-year old Pinot Noir vines, this wine displays aromas of berries, cherries and dried herbs. The light-bodied palate is really nice, with fruit-driven cherry flavors, a slightly rustic character, along with an earthy/herbal undercurrent in the long finish.

Domaine du Petit Clocher
Presently managed by the fourth successive generation, this estate has grown from 5 to 80 hectares over 50 years. Yet, it remains true to its roots, favoring traditional wine making practices.

Domaine du Petit Clocher, Anjou 2016, Loire Valley, France
This 100% Cabernet Franc offers up wet leaves, dried herbs. The dry palate displays medium+ acidity, medium to full body, grainy, textural tannins, raspberry, herbaceous notes and long length.

Chateau de Coulaine
This family-owned winery has been operating continuously since 1300! Etienne de Bonnaventure has been at the helm of viticulture and winemaking responsibilities since 1988 and was joined by his son, Jean, in 2014. The 12-hectare estate is planted exclusively to Cabernet Franc, with the vineyards farmed organically.

Chateau de Coulaine Chinon 2017, Loire Valley, France
A beautiful nose of mulberry, blueberry and cranberry gives way to wet leaves, with a textural palate of medium, ripe tannins, medium+ body, high acidity, oak and leafy flavors and long length.

Cool as a Cucumber! Chablis 2017

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While we are blessed to have thousands of grape varieties from which to choose, sometimes returning to an old favorite is a nice surprise. So, it you have been giving shade to Chardonnay lately, perhaps it’s time to turn your attention back to this great grape. And, Chablis is a perfect expression of this wonderful variety!

Located in the northernmost area of France’s Burgundy region, Chablis offers up fresh, pure fruit with predominant notes of citrus, green apple, limestone and other minerality. On the palate, it displays bright acidity, medium to full body and overall, well-made wines with balance and complexity.

The 2017 vintage was a classic one, but with smaller yields. Accordingly, there are fewer wines available, but those that were made are excellent. These wines are infinitely food friendly, ready to drink now, but will definitely develop more complexity with time in bottle.

The 2017 growing season’s weather conditions permitted the grapes to achieve full ripeness, but it was not overly hot, so acidity levels were retained – a hallmark of Chablis wines. Consequently, these wines are crisp, bright and fresh…. and perfect for the dog days of summer!

TASTING NOTES
Domaine Chantemerle Chablis 2017, $27.00
Aromas of flint, apple and smoke greet the nose. On the palate, it is dry and full-bodied with high acidity, notes of apple, pear, a hint of melon and nuttiness, with long length.

Gilbert Picq et ses Fils Chablis 2017, $21.00
Displaying a shy nose with mineral and stone, this dry wine offers up high acidity, medium+ body, tidal pool and apple flavors, along with long length.

Chateau de Maligny Chablis 2017, $25.00
With an intense nose of minerality and green apple, this wine is dry, with very high acidity, medium+ body and flavors of green apple and flint, with very long length.

Domaine Vocoret & Fils Chablis 2017, $30.00
Notes of stone, gunmetal and green apple dominate the nose, giving way to more citrus flavors on the dry, bright full-bodied palate, culminating in long length.

From Régis to the Sublime: Piper-Heidsieck’s Changing of the Guard

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For over two decades, Régis Camus has been at the helm of Piper-Heidsieck’s winemaking, garnering admiration, accolades and awards (as Piper’s Chef de Caves, he has been named Sparkling Winemaker of the Year eight times by the International Wine Challenge jury). But, after 24 vintages devoted to the Cuvée Brut NV, it was time for a change.

Since 2000, Camus has included the company’s prestige cuvée, Rare, under his purview and was responsible for the creation of its rosé counterpart, Rare Rosé, first released in 2016. While Rare was initially the tete du cuvée, the wine has now become its own brand with increasing substance and status. Accordingly, as Camus turns his attention to all things Rare, Piper-Heidsieck has brought in new talent to take over its Cellar Master spot: Émilien Boutillat.

Admittedly, given Camus’ experience and expertise, these are not easy shoes to fill. However, the youthful Boutillat is no stranger to Champagne, having grown up in the region to a Champagne-producing family. In fact, his father worked with Piper-Heidsieck as a grower and Boutillat fondly remembers visiting the Champagne house as a child to ride the train that used to be on the property.

Following in his family’s footsteps, he studied enology and agricultural engineering, and went on to work harvests both at home and abroad. After building up a solid portfolio of experience with stints in Bordeaux, the Rhône Valley, Southern France, Chile, New Zealand, California and South Africa, he returned to Champagne as Cellar Master for Champagnes Cattier and Armand de Brignac.

In late 2018, Boutillat joined Piper-Heidsieck, working closely with Camus to better understand the style of the brand and learn how to make the blend. He is committed to maintaining the same style and excellence of the Piper brand, but is also looking forward to making his mark. In this regard, he anticipates making subtle changes as he adds his own personal touch, all while respecting the DNA of the brand.

More specifically, Boutillat notes that details are very important, and plans to focus on the vineyards more so than on changes in winemaking, looking at factors such as harvest dates. He is also dedicated to sustainable agriculture, with the intention of adding to the efforts already underway at Piper-Heidsieck. In particular, he will encourage sustainable viticulture practices among Piper’s partners and will raise standards in the vineyards.

When not at work, he performs with a local Improv theater group and is an avid hiker. Closer to home, he grows his own vegetables and enjoys cooking, always seeking to find a balance between the wine and food. Thus, it was a perfect introduction to him and the art of pairing wine and food, when he made his New York debut after nine months of “study.” At lunch at Hudson Yards’ Wild Ink, the current crop of Piper-Heidsieck’s Champagnes showed beautifully with the Asian-inspired cuisine and we had fun trying out different wines with each course. Although none of these wines were made by Boutillat, it was clear that he is up to the challenge and that the future of Piper-Heidsieck is in good hands.

TASTING NOTES

Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV, $45.00
Based on the 2015 vintage, the Cuvée is made up of 50% Pinot Noir 30% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. It is toasty and fruity with citrus and pear notes. The palate is rich and complex yet not complicated, with long length.

Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage NV, $60.00
The Rosé Sauvage uniquely drinks more like a still wine than a Champagne and is one of the darkest rosé’s on the market. It offers up dark red fruit and berries, along with smoke and sweet spices, with intense richness on the palate, along with great acidity and long length.

Piper-Heidsieck Brut 2012, $80.00
The 2012 is the most recent vintage; the last one was 2008. A 50-50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, sourced among the best grapes from Grand and Premier Crus vineyards, this is an age-worthy wine that can keep in the cellar for up to 15 years. Aromas of yeast, tree fruit, toastiness and cherry greet the nose, while the palate is very complex, seductive, generous and creamy, with the added flavors of honey and spice, culminating in long length.

Piper-Heidsieck Sublime (Demi-Sec), $55.00
This demi-sec dessert wine has 35 g/l of residual sugar, but is very balanced and elegant, with bright acidity and a citrus note lingering in the fresh finish. Aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, vanilla, mango, gingerbread and coconut made it a perfect pairing partner to dessert as well as spicy foods.