Category Archives: Wine Miscellany

Georgian culture, Chateau Buera and Gifts from God: An evening at Chama Mama

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While I have previously tasted and written about Georgian wine, it has been from a more clinical vantage point – tasting wines and taking notes at my own dining table or occasionally sampling one at an adventurous wine bar. However, it wasn’t until last week that I had a much more immersive experience with the wines, food and culture of Georgia, which was an absolute privilege and pleasure.

More specifically, in Georgian culture, guests are seen as a gift from God, which is exactly how I felt at a recent press dinner at the Brooklyn outpost of Chama Mama – a top Georgian restaurant with three locations in New York City.

Due to subway signal issues, I arrived slightly late, feeling a bit out of sorts and overwhelmed as I was introduced to a flurry of people and then further greeted a glass of wine: Chateau Buera Ojaleshi Rose 2021. But, within minutes, the group of us were easily comfortable with one another as we acknowledged both our differences and our shared roots of growing up in the Metro New York area.

Chama Mama’s Lasha Tsatava, wine director and Mariam Navdarashvili, chief marketing officer.

Presiding over the dinner were our hosts Nino Chiokadze, executive chef and Lasha Tsatava, wine director. We were also joined by Chama Mama’s chief marketing officer, Mariam Navdarashvili. While long on passion for Georgian wine, Lasha’s tenure in New York is limited to just a handful of weeks (although he has lived in the U.S. since 1998).

But, he is on a mission to share his love and passion for Georgian wine with the United States. In fact, he is so passionate about sharing these wines with the U.S. that he is co-founder with Erica Frey of the non-profit Saperica, whose “mission is to promote Saperavi and other Georgian grape varieties along with Georgian gastronomy and culture in the Finger Lakes, NY and around the U.S., by organizing and facilitating educational seminars and exchange programs between the regions, for wine and culinary professionals and enthusiasts.”

In fact, citing its incredibly long and rich vinous history (in 2017, conclusive evidence proved that Georgia was the birthplace of wines), Lasha was eager to share how Georgia and wine have been inextricably linked forever, which permeates throughout its culture and political history, a point he came back to on several occasions.

After our initial introductions, we gathered around the table to begin our feast, where we were greeted by a beautiful bowl of fresh, seasonal vegetables, including Persian cucumbers, brightly colored red radishes and other farm-fresh produce. From this first taste, our immersion into Georgian culture began.

Lasha explained that the seasoned salt found in a ramekin on the table was typical of NW Georgia, in the mountainous region of Georgia called Svaneti. Associated with the Argonauts and the Golden Fleece (thanks to its mention in Homer’s Odyssey), this area contains the most preserved culture of the country. Bringing together salt and a blend of spices, the mixture was delicious for dipping the aforementioned vegetables and simply enjoying them on their own.

Another important component of Georgian culture was the presence of bread (aka puri) on the table. Joining the vegetables and salt were simple mini baguettes and a flatter, pita-looking bread, both of which had been baked in a wood fired oven. We were encouraged to dip the bread in flavored sunflower oil, known as adjika. This spicy condiment was more flavor than heat and added a delicious dimension to enjoying the bread.

Appetites whetted, we turned our attention to the first course, which further showcased the season with a Spring herb salad, featuring aromatic, springtime tarragon in the dressing. This herby freshness paired beautifully with the white wine served alongside it: Chateau Buera Rkatsiteli 2022. This wine displayed lovely notes of citrus, hazelnut and salinity, with medium acidity, medium body and long length.

At this point, we were provided with a more formal introduction to our other (yet non-present) host of the evening – Château Buera. Buera is situated in Kakheti, an area that Lasha likened to the Napa Valley, and which represents 75% of the country’s plantings and 70% of its total wine production.

Château Buera was established in 2018 by Goga Maisuradze who is also the founder of Lopota Spa Resort and is responsible for spearheading tourism to the region. Here, the focus is on European wine making, while celebrating indigenous varieties (such as Rkatsiteli, Ojaleshi and Saperavi) and centuries-old winemaking. In this regard, Lasha described Buera as a modern, visionary producer and further shared that many of the wines had been aged, not just in oak, but also in clay vessels known as qvevri. Also important to note is that Chateau Buera utilizes sustainable agriculture practices in its vineyards and is in the process of obtaining BIO certification.

Equally important, as the meal progressed, we were given a glimpse into classic Georgian culture – the Supra, which is a feast hosted by a toastmaster, referred to as the Tamada. Clearly serving as our tamada, Lasha held his glass aloft and welcomed us to the table, noting our shared love of food, wine and travel, a very apropos toast and a lovely way to highlight how our shared experiences bring us all together.

Typically, these feasts feature immense tables heavily laden with food, dozens of people and toasts that last well into the night. Some of the extended nature of these events can be attributed to the Tamada’s nomination of an Alaverdi – someone nominated to elaborate on the toast. Fortunately, the nominations were limited and while our evening was no less memorable or special, it gratefully left us only tipsy and home before midnight.

Salad plates cleared, we were brought our second course, which consisted of a “Taste of Georgia,” starring four different pkhali (spreads)  – spinach, cabbage, beans and eggplant  – served alongside two different breads. These spreads are prepared with walnut paste and other seasonings such as garlic, cilantro and pomegranate. The bread options were the open faced, seasonal khachapuri, topped with fresh tarragon and basil and the imeruli khachpuri stuffed with farmers and other cheeses, which was reminiscent (to me) of a cheese borek.

Lasha suggested different combinations of the spreads with the bread options and added to the permutations by serving a trio of Amber wines. The Amber wine style is a category especially close to Lasha’s heart and one that they are actively building at the restaurant. While some people may be familiar with skin-contact, orange wines, they deliberately use the term Amber (instead of orange) as these are skin-contact wines that are specifically aged in clay qvevri.

Our flight consisted of an “Intro to Amber” wine, “Combo” and a “ ‘Full-On’ Amber”, denoting three different styles of these wines. Lasha explained that these wines provided a 3D experience with clay serving as a third dimension in addition to the more common use of stainless steel and oak.

Hailing from Western Georgia, the Intro wine (Tsolikouri Amber 2020, with one month of full skin-contact and six months in qvevri) offered up more fresh fruit with low tannins; more tannic than the Intro and with less fresh fruit character, the modern innovation Combo wine (Chateau Buera Qvevri Amber 2019) had been aged in oak. Finally, the “Full-On style (Pat’ra Marani Rkatsiteli 2021) was redolent of rich, dried fruit and was more overtly tannic on the palate. A similar Amber flight is always on offer at the restaurant as are ones featuring white wines, Saperavi wines and a trio of white, amber and red.

From breads and spreads, we shifted to heavier fare, with pork mtsvadi, pork skewers that had been marinated for at least 24 hours. The Chef further clarified that dried vine stems are used alongside the charcoal when cooking the meat. This course was served with the Château Buera Saperavi Reserve 2018, which had been aged in French oak for 12 months and then another 12 months in bottle, before release. This wine offered up beautiful notes of black cherry, chocolate and cocoa powder and toast, with good acidity, ripe tannins, full body and long length. 

The pork plate was followed by lamb chops similarly marinated for a lengthy period of time and also sprinkled with pomegranates, adding sweetness and tartness in contrast to the meaty flavors. The chops were accompanied by the Dekanozishvili Dry Red 2017, a blend of 70% Saperavi, 20% Otskhanuri Sapere and 10% Shavkapito. The wine had been fermented in both qvevri and oak, aged in oak barrel for 18 months and had also been produced using the appassimento method of drying out the grapes over a period of months to naturally reduce their water content and thereby increase the concentration of flavors. At seven years of age, this showed some development on the nose and palate with aromas of smoke, toast, forest floor and black fruit. It was intense with heady flavors, culminating in very long length.

Nearly sated with food and drink, we were presented with one last course: Pelamushi, which is a “traditional Georgian sweet grape pudding topped with glazed walnuts”. To produce this dish, grape juice retained from during harvest is significantly reduced to concentrate the flavors and cooked with flour to produce a gelatinous, yet tasty, dessert. The course was paired with the Royal Khvanchkara Khvanchkara Red Semi-sweet 2018, from NW Georgia featuring a blend of the Alexandrouli and Mujeruli grapes.

As we lingered at the table a little longer, Lasha insisted upon us tasting a little Chacha, Georgian distilled beverage produced similarly to Grappa, produced from the Rkatsiteli grape and “blended with glacier-based water from the Caucasus mountains, aged in qvevri (handcrafted clay vessel) for 3-4 month and charcoal filtered before bottling”. It was very smooth, balanced and a refreshing palate cleanser.

We had finally come to the end of our evening and reluctantly bid our hosts farewell. We might not have quite become friends, but we certainly left feeling more connected, having shared a very special experience that truly immersed us in the ways of Georgian wine and food. Whether or not guests are seen as gifts from God, having been a part of this magical evening was truly a gift! 

LIST of WINES TASTED

  • Chateau Buera Ojaleshi Rose 2021, Lechkhumi, Georgia
  • Chateau Buera Rkatsiteli 2022, Khakheti, Georgia
  • Tsolikouri Amber 2020, Georgia
  • Chateau Buera Qvevri Amber 2019, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Pat’ra Marani Rkatsiteli 2021, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Chateau Buera Saperavi Reserve 2018, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Dekanozishvili Dry Red 2017, Kakheti, Georgia
  • Royal Khvanchkara Khvanchkara Red Semi-sweet 2018, Racha, Georgia
  • AMBE wine spirit from Rkatsiteli grapes

Make Mine A Malbec, 2023 edition, a reflection on winemaking style

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As I’ve written before, the Malbec grape originated in France and is currently grown in Bordeaux, the Loire Valley and Cahors. But, despite Malbec’s association with France, it is planted in much greater numbers in Argentina. More specifically, Argentina’s long relationship with Malbec dates to 1853 when agronomist Michel Aimé Pouget brought the grape to from Europe to the New World country, having been hired to run an agricultural school there. In addition to the school’s influence, Argentina’s early viticulture was also shaped by Italian and French immigrants, who brought their grape growing experience and expertise with them.

Not surprisingly, I have had the opportunity to compare and contrast Malbec-based wines in the past, both with regard to producer as well as with regard to region of production (i.e. Argentina vs. France).

However, I recently had the particularly interesting chance to taste two Malbecs side-by-side, which differed markedly in winemaking approaches: traditional red wine production vs. carbonic maceration.

Traditional red wine production is fairly well known and understood by consumers, but carbonic maceration is less familiar, since it is mostly confined to the production of Beaujolais Noveau. Utilizing intracellular fermentation, carbonic maceration typically produces lighter style wines with a fresh fruit flavor profile. This was not a winemaking technique brought to bear on the Malbec grape… until now. In fact, there appears to be a trend among Argentine producers (see: this story) in using this unusual approach with Argentinian grapes.

Now, joining this small coterie of carbonic macerators, Domaine Bousquet has added its Gaia Nouveau Malbec to the mix. Produced with certified organic Malbec grapes, winemaker Rodrigo Serrano decided, “Why not try to make a carbonic maceration Malbec?” Answering his own question affirmatively, the first wine was made with the 2022 vintage to rave reviews.

The counter balance, with a more traditional approach, was Antigal’s Uno Malbec 2019, also made with organic Malbec grapes and produced solely in stainless steel tanks (no wood/oak influence).

I was previously introduced to Antigal in 2018 (see story). Obviously a lot has happened in the world since then, so it was a pleasure to receive a sample of the current vintage of this wine to reacquaint myself. Proudly bearing its metallic numeral 1 breast plate, this wine comes from Antigal’s Uno collection.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Nouveau Malbec 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00
(100% Malbec, certified organic)
This wine presents with fresh berry aromas. It is light bodied, with fresh berries and a hint of earth, with lively acidity and bright freshness on the dry palate with long length.

Antigal Uno Malbec 2019, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00
(100% Malbec, organic grapes)
This wine has a pronounced nose with black and blue fruit, spice and vanilla, which persist on the dry palate, with ripe, medium-firm tannins, culminating with medium+ length.

Hey French, an Italian wine good naturedly pokes fun at France

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I’ve written about the Pasqua wines previously and have always been impressed with them. This most recent tasting was no exception.

Their latest wine comes with the lengthy, yet catchy, name of Hey French: you could have done this but you didn’t and, more specifically this is “Hey French, 1st Edition.” The mouthful of a name is simply a joke, while also paying homage to French winemakers and their regions who inspire the current generation of the Pasqua family.

The wine is billed as a “super-Bianco” and is a blend of 60% Garganega grapes, with the balance comprised of Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon, all of which were grown in the Veneto. In addition to having been macerated on the skins for about 10 hours prior to fermentation, the other interesting aspect of the wine’s production is that it brings together wines from four different vintages – 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2017 – with future editions to contain a different set of vintages.

And, while the grapes come from an area within the Soave DOC denomination, the fact that this wine breaks the rules precludes it from having that designation on its label. But, as they are trying to create a completely different, non-Soave wine, it really doesn’t matter. Instead, the wine is designated Bianco Veneto IGT and sports a flamboyant label designed by French-Cuban artist, CB Hoyo, in keeping with the light-hearted nature of the wine.


TASTING NOTE
“Hey French, 1st Edition”, Bianco Veneto IGT, Italy, $40.00
Dry on the palate with medium+ acidity, the wine presented aromas and flavors of citrus, minerality and tidal pool. It displayed depth and richness, along with a fuller body, making it a good white wine option for the colder, winter months ahead or to pair with heartier food. The wine definitely has aging potential and will likely become more complex and interesting with time.

Lini 910’s Lambrusco: New (to you) Wines to Welcome in the New Year

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My philosophy has always been that everything is better that sparkles: wine, water, diamonds and personalities. And, while I happily drink sparkling wines all year round regardless of the occasion, I am especially fixated on fizz for New Year’s Eve.

This year, I had the pleasure of tasting through an assortment of Italian sparklers from wine importer Winebow ranging from Prosecco to Franciacorta. But, it was the duo of Lambrusco wines –a rosé and a vintage-dated rosso — that commanded my attention. These two wines were produced by Lini 910, a family-owned and operated winery, which was founded in 1910 and is presently run by Fabio Lini, a member of the fourth generation.

Hailing from Central Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, Lambrusco has been made as early as the middle of the 10th century. While there are stylistic differences among the various DOCs, in general, Lambrusco is produced via the Charmat Method and the resulting wines typically display high acidity, at least some effervescence, low alcohol and fruity and floral aromas. In addition, some producers do make Traditional Method wines, which are more similar to Champagne in their production.

Overall, these wonderful wines are extremely food friendly (which makes a lot of sense given that they come from a very gastronomic-focused area – the land of Parmigiana-Reggiano, Parma ham and Balsamic vinegar. Moreover, they pair equally well with cheeses and charcuterie as well as with heartier fare.

With their festive bubbles and bold red hues, they easily transform any day into a celebration, making them an excellent alternative to Champagne and other sparklers especially as we countdown to the new decade!


TASTING NOTES

Lini 910, Lambrusco Rosé NV, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, $25.00
Typical of the region, this wine is produced by the Charmat Method, the same method used in the production of Prosecco. This process retains the fresh fruit flavors of the grapes, which are present on the nose and palate of this lovely wine. Floral, fresh herbs and ripe cherries greet the nose and persist on the palate, with medium+ body, freshness and long length.

Lini 910, Lambrusco Metodo Classico Rosso Millesimato 2006, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, $40.00
As a Metodo Classico wine, this Lambrusco was crafted using the Traditional Method, the same production technique used in Champagne, whereby the wine spends a significant amount of time in contact with the spent yeast (aka lees). Given its more complex production, this wine offered up beautiful notes of yeast, cherries and berries. The rich blackberry flavors were balanced with lively acidity and very long length.

Rediscovering the Many Faces of Valpolicella

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With its long history of wine production dating to the 6th century, Valpolicella is well known. Moreover, it has grown significantly in production over the past 30 years, from 1 million bottles annually to more than 40 million bottles (60 million if you include the full complement of wines). However, as sommelier, Filippo Bartolotta noted, it has been slow to catch up with its reputation, calling it an underdog in the wine world.

At a recent Valpolicella Master Class held in New York City at Café DiPalo, Bartolotta spent time providing a wealth of information to the assembled wine press and trade. In the end, there is a lot to know if one wishes to truly understand this wine, but it is certainly accessible and enjoyable without knowing all of the nuances that make up this family of wines.

Wherefore Art Thou Valpolicella?
Situated north of (the fair city of) Verona in Italy’s Veneto region, the Valpolicella production area comprises three zones: Valpolicella, Valpolicella Classico and Valpantena. Here, east of Lake Garda and protected by the Lessini Mountains, the area is favorably impacted by cool winds and cool nights that fix the color and aroma in the grapes.

Geologically, the area was formed 120 million years ago when two plates collided creating the Alps. The soils are calcareous, with the obvious presence of fossils and dinosaur footprints, imparting minerality to the wines. Volcanic soils are also present underneath the balsamic strata. More recently, major studies on how the varied soils impact on different varieties have been undertaken.

With regard to varieties, Valpolicella is produced from a combination of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara and other local grapes. As the starring players, Corvina and/or Corvinone can account for 45-95% of the blend, which is a recent change to the requirements. Corvina is known for providing backbone, structure and perfume, similar to Pinot Noir, while the thicker- and darker-skinned Corvinone lends power, color and structure to the wines. Rondinella, which is the other mandatory variety and permitted from 5 to 30%, adds both minerality and acidity. Up to 15% of other indigenous varieties can round out the blend.

What’s in a Name?
But, as Bartolotta emphasized, the story is much more complicated than climate and soil because Valpolicella is a wine about process rather than about a single variety or even several varieties. In particular, there are four separate wines produced under the Valpolicella umbrella: Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG and Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG. These differing wines are the result of the historical development of wine in the region. In addition, Valpolicella Superiore DOC are those Valpolicella wines that have been produced from riper grapes, along with one year of aging, which are fuller-bodied in character.

Perhaps the most recognizable of the four, Amarone is produced from the best batches of fruit, which are left to dry in in specialized rooms for a minimum of 100 days. This extended drying period concentrates the sugars and reduces the weight of the grapes by 40%. It is during this process that Corvina truly shines as it undergoes various enzymatic reactions that alters its DNA and ultimately changes its flavor. Further, the grape will defend itself against noble rot, releasing balsamic vinegar aromas. Regardless of the varieties, all of the shriveled grapes are then fermented to dryness, yielding a concentrated, full-bodied wine, which must be aged for at least two years. Amarone Riserva has spent an additional two years of aging.

But, before there was Amarone, there was Recioto, with 2500 years of history! Stemming from the word rece – local lingo for ears – it was the lobes of the berries which garnered more sun exposure and thus higher quantities of sugar. These sugar-laden sections of the grape bunches were dried for lengthy periods of time. Taking advantage of the cold temperatures, the free run juice would be put outside to stop fermentation, the process would then be repeated and eventually the yeast stopped working. Interestingly, the Romans would add sulfur dioxide to kill off the yeast, a practice still used to this day. With high residual sugar levels, these are a rich and decadent dessert wines, which are produced in minute quantities.

Under the less modern and, consequently, less controlled, winemaking conditions of the past, occasionally the result would be Recioto Scapa. If the wine didn’t stop fermenting, it became dry instead of sweet since all of the sugar had been converted into alcohol. Thus, Amarone was originally called Recioto Secco (dry). Taking its name from the word for bitter  – amar – Amarone became the official term for this style of wine as of 1936.

And, sitting somewhere in between Valpolicella and Amarone is Ripasso – translating as one more pass. In this process, Valpolicella wine is added to the leftover Amarone pomace, prompting fermentation to start again, creating wines with higher alcohol, more extraction, fuller body and greater concentrations of  phenolics and sweetness.

Please come and drink a cup of wine
With this wide range of wines under the Valpolicella name, there is a lot of diversity and opportunity to find the perfect wine for the right occasion. During the Master Class, we tasted the full complement of these wines, which provided a wonderful introduction to each wine/style. Some are more suited to casual cuisine, while the beautifully balanced sweetness of Recioto is great with (or instead of) dessert.

TASTING NOTES

Sartori Di Verona Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore 2015
Sartori di Verona is situated in the Negar area, with 50 hectares of vineyards. This wine sees no oak and is more about simple fruit flavors than complexity. It is dry with high acidity, medium tannins and flavors of cherries and a slight herbal note, culminating in long length. With its lively acidity, this is a great match for calamari or pasta pomodoro.

Novaia, Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore 2016 I Cantoni
This tiny producer has 7 hectares and its vineyards are certified organic. There is some volcanic presence in the soils and a small percentage of dried grapes are incorporated into the wine. Compared to the Sartori di Verona Valpolicella (above), this wine is more concentrated, with riper cherry fruit and more noticeable herbal character. It also displayed greater minerality, a fuller body, slightly lower acidity, lovely tannins and longer length.

Villa Mattielli, Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG 2015
Villa Mattielli is owned by Roberta Roncolato and her husband, Giacomo, a former F1 pilot. Roberta takes a modern approach to her winemaking, crafting robust wines, which are aged in French oak. This dry, full-bodied wine offered up lots of ripe black fruit, blueberries, dried fruit, a hint of oak and long length.  

Secondo Marco, Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2011
This winery’s name literally translates to according to Marco – in this case the wine is made according to owner Marco Speri.  The grapes spent 150 days of drying and then went through 45 days of fermentation and maceration, followed by 48 months aging in big Slavonian oak. It is very floral with aromas of rose and violets, as well as gunflint. On the full-bodied palate, it shows flavors of blueberry, blackberry, citrus, and an undercurrent of menthol. Overall, it is hedonistic, sensual, with a ripe sweetness, balanced with good acidity, culminating in very long length.

Villa San Carlo, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Superiore 2013
Home to a beautiful Venetian villa, Villa San Carlo was purchased by the Pavesi family in 1958. While they planted vineyards early on, they only chose to begin making their own wine in 2009. The oak aged wine offers up smokey, barbecue, earthy, mushroom and black fruit aromas, which persist on the dry, medium+-bodied palate. It has high acidity, good tannins and lush fruit and spice flavors. While not as complex as the Amarone, it provides good value for the money and is lower in alcohol.

Degani, Recioto Della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2016
Located in the Classico valley, the three Degani brothers took over after their uncle’s death, maintaining the vineyards and winery as a family business.  This wine offers up a complex and intense nose of dried fruit, prunes, raisins, burnt sugar, smoke and spice. It is medium sweet with high acidity, full body, yet is elegant, balanced, and beautiful with a fruit-driven palate along with hints of cocoa in the finish and long length. Filippo suggested pairing it with brownies with cranberries.

Looking for Affordable Burgundy Bottles? Look to Elden Selections for holiday pours and gifts.

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I recently taught a wine class for the IWAGY wine club in Poughkeepsie, NY titled, “Affordable Southern Burgundy: Great Wines that Won’t Break the Bank.” While the presentation was primarily designed to introduce the audience to the lesser-known Burgundian districts of the Macon and the Cote Chalonnaise, they were eager to know about affordability.

Why? Well, it should come as no surprise to ardent wine lovers that Burgundy is often price prohibitive. As Ethan Fixell wrote in “The Hidden (Affordable) Gems of Burgundy” (1/2/2018), “There’s no gentle way to put this: Burgundy has become stupidly expensive.” And, in his NY Times article, “The Value of Burgundy, Regardless of the Price,” (May 9, 2019), Eric Asimov reinforced this sentiment, saying, “Speaking generally, Burgundy is nowadays the most coveted wine on the planet.[,]” citing the small production capacity and further noting, “The prices of Burgundy have shot upward in the last 20 years, to the point where the best wines are far beyond the means of most people.”

Asimov’s claims are backed by numbers: a Grand Cru Vineyard in the Cote d’Or that was valued at 7 million Euros in 2008 had jumped to 14 million Euros in 2018. And regional vineyards, though much cheaper (70,500 Euros/ha in 2017) are still not a bargain.

These exorbitant real estate prices, coupled with scant quantities – Burgundy production accounts for only 8.6% of all French AOP (quality) wine, 4.1% of all French production overall and only 0.6% of world production – means that it is challenging to find reasonably priced wines from the region. (Source: Vins de Bourgogne)

Burgundy has been producing wine for centuries, with its vignerons honing their craft and truly understanding the nuances of the region’s soils, climate and vineyards. Principally planted to Chardonnay (51%) and Pinot Noir (41%), these wines have become the benchmark for all others of these varieties and, not surprisingly, are highly regarded and sought after.

Yet, despite the dire outlook on overall affordability, it is possible to find more reasonably priced Burgundian wines if you know where to look. One place to check out is online e-tailer, Elden Selections. Founded in 1992 by Eleanor Garvin and Dennis Sherman, expats who have lived and worked in Burgundy for over 30 years, Elden Selections is a direct-to-consumer wine store focused almost exclusively on Burgundy. As such, it is unique in the U.S. and, equally important, they provide a wide range of Burgundian bottles from various appellations and price points within the region.

Elden offers a large selection of “everyday Burgundy” under $40.00 featuring regional and village level wines as well as those from smaller, hard to find appellations such as Irancy. And, in keeping with their desire to satisfy wine-drinking consumers, not wine collectors, the top priced wine is $300; not cheap by any means, but definitely more palatable than the staggering $1,500 or more per bottle that some rare wines can fetch.

Moreover, the wines are sourced from small quantity, minimal-intervention, farmer-made producers, rather than stocking wines from the large negociants. Having lived in the region for years, Eleanor and Dennis have strong relationships with the producers, tasting the wines multiple times to ensure quality.

Further, their site is easy to navigate, packed with educational information about the wines and their producers and permits consumers to purchase as few as one or as many wines as they wish. Case orders are shipped free of charge. Plus, they tout a no-questions-asked return policy (though, to date, no one has exercised this option).

Now is a great time to pick up a mixed case of Burgundy wines to serve with holiday dinners or to give as gifts.

Michelin Guide Takes on Full Ownership of Parker’s Wine Advocate

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At a press conference for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, wherein they announced that Michelin Guide had upped its stake in the wine publication to full ownership, we were introduced to ten discoveries of the year from each of the magazine’s wine reviewers.

A South African Chardonnay had been chosen by Anthony Mueller (who focuses on South Africa and Washington State) for its precision and focus as well as the maverick behind the wine ‘s Lismore label, Samantha O’Keefe. He noted that the wine’s characteristics harken back to the grape’s Burgundian roots.

California and Oregon Editor, Erin Brooks, offered up a California Chardonnay from Mikey Giugni, owner and winemaker of Scar of the Sea. I was impressed by the youthful exuberance of Mikey as well as the depth of his wine. The 32-year old engineer turned winemaker uses old, neutral oak for his wines, resulting in an integrated wine, with a richness and roundness on the palate.

Editor-in-Chief, Lisa Perrotti-Brown, wanted remind readers that St. Emilion is capable of delivering elegance and finesse with her choice of Poesia coming into its own after having been purchased in 2013 by Helene Garcin-Leveque and her husband, Patrice. The wine is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc and provides floral, earth and mineral character on the nose and palate.

It was lovely to taste the Domaines Lupier La Dama, the discovery from reviewer Luis Gutierrez. And, interesting and fun to meet the winery’s owner, Elisa Ucar, who seemed familiar (and which I later confirmed), I had met when I visited Navarra back in 2011. A beautiful Austrian Riesling and elegant Champagne rounded out the tasting discoveries for me.

Established in 1978 by Robert Parker as a bi-monthly newsletter, with only himself as the wine reviewer, the Wine Advocate has grown significantly in the past 41 years, with 10 reviewers, 400,000 wine reviews and generating 30,000 new reviews annually. This recent acquisition by Michelin brings together enology and gastronomy and seeks to raise the global presence of the Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate brand, with an emphasis on emerging wine markets and an enlarged digital presence. It will be interesting to see what happens with this next chapter of this storied wine review publication.

LIST of WINES
Lismore Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2017, Western Cape, South Africa, $45.00
94 points

Scar of the Sea Chardonnay Seven Leagues 2017, Santa Maria Valley (CA), USA, $37.00
93 points

Chateau Poesia 2016, Saint Emilion, Bordeaux, France, $39.00
94 points

Domaines Lupier La Dama 2015, Navarra, Spain, $43.00
96 points

Martin Muthenthaler Riesling Viesslinger Stern 2017, Wachau, Austria, $48.00
Score not yet published

Ulysse Collin Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Roises NV, Champagne, France, $146.00
98 points

NB: Wines are listed in the order mentioned in the article; scores are from the respective editor.

Campania’s Sannio Wines Delight at Del Posto

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Although I am generally familiar with the wines of Italy’s Campania region, namely through visits to Feudi di San Gregorio and Mastroberadino, I had never heard of Sannio. Or, admittedly, if I had, it was likely memorized for a wine exam and then promptly forgotten. My mistake…and my misfortune for overlooking these wines.

Thankfully the error of my ways has been rectified, thanks to a beautiful introduction to these wines back in October. We were welcomed to a sumptuous lunch at Del Posto restaurant by Consorzio President, Dr. Libero Rillo, who provided some background on this tiny territory in the province of Benevento. But, despite its small size (~10,000 hectares), it is important to the Campania region. Here, the emphasis is on the indigenous grape varieties of Aglianico, Falanghina and others.

The Consorzio itself dates in 1999 and comprises 400 members. It overseas several denominations including Aglianico del Taburno DOCG, which produces red or rose wines, Falanghina del Sannio DOP, which is restricted to white and sparkling as well as the Sannio DOP which offers a full range of styles. An IGP Benevento or Beneventano also exists. 

The 10,000 hectares are allocated among nearly 10,000 wineries, including two cooperatives. Most are small and medium in size, producing a total of 25 million bottles annually among the IGT, DOC and DOCG designations. However, the consorzio is eager to increase its production, especially at the quality levels.

Attendees at the aforementioned press luncheon has the opportunity to explore the two vaunted denominations: Falanghina Sannio DOC and Aglianico del Tabruno DOCG, under the tutelage of Somm In the City, Sara Lehman. While the Falanghina grape has ancient roots, its name has much more modern origins thanks to the trellis poles aka “falanga” that were used to support the vines. The wine received its DOP status in 2013, and is known for its minerality, good acidity, and ability to age for 10-15 years, during which time it develops complexity. These grapes must be sourced from the hillsides where there is some elevation, which helps to avoid the humidity found on the valley floor.

The Aglianico del Tabruno DOCG harkens back to the Greeks who came to the area centuries ago, settling near Mt. Taburno. The wine’s DOCG status was bestowed in 2011 and comprises both red and rose wines. The rose, which doesn’t require any aging, is currently the only Italian rose to hold this designation level. The reds must be aged for a minimum of two years in wood and bottle, with the Riservas aged for three years in wood and another 12 months in bottle. These are powerful, tannic wines with complexity and good aging potential, known for aromas of blackberry, plum, violet and black pepper.

WHITE WINE TASTING NOTES
I deliberately limited my consumption of the Falanghinas knowing that we were going to taste a lot of reds with the seated lunch (we tasted 13 and I’ve included my notes on my 8 favorites). Accordingly, I limited my tasting to the sparkling Falanghina del Sannio DOP – V.S.Q. Brut from Cantina di Solopaca, which is one of the oldest co-ops in the area, with grapes sourced from the slopes of Mt. Taburno. It was refreshing, with good acidity and nice fruit aromas and flavors.

I also tasted the Mustilli Vigna Segreta Falanghina 2016, a wine produced from a cru vineyard known for its volcanic and limestone soils. It was rich and concentrated with good minerality and long length.

RED WINE TASTING NOTES
2018 Elena Catalano Sannio Aglianico 2018, Italy
This wine, produced solely in stainless steel, was youthful, with robust red and black fruit, firm tannins and good length.

Fattoria la Rivolta Pediarosso Taburno Sannio DOP 2018, Italy
Made from hand-harvested grapes grown on clay and volcanic soil, this wine offered up bright red fruit, lovely freshness and notes of pepper that lingered in the finish.

Cantina di Solopaca Barbera 2017, Italy
This wine is produced from 20 year old vines grown on clay and limestone soils on the slopes of Mt. Taberno, It offers up a very earthy nose, with a clay undercurrent and red fruit aromas and flavors.
  
Cautiero Sannio DOC Aglianico 2016, Italy
After moving to the city as adults, the winery’s owners returned to the countryside to pursue their love of wine and the land, choosing to focus on organic farming. The wine is tight and needs time, but displays nice black fruit and long length.

Terre Stregate Manent Sannio Aglianico 2016, Italy
This is a beautiful and balanced wine with lovely aromas and flavors of red fruit, earth and herbs, along with good structure. It spent 6-8 months aging in barriques.

Azienda Agricola Scompiglio Barbera del Sannio 2016, Italy
Lush and gorgeous on the nose and palate, this Barbera was floral in character with blueberry and blackcherry notes, lingering in the long length.

Azienda Agricola Castelle Aglianico Riserva 2015, Italy
As a Riserva-level wine, it spent the minimum three years aging in oak. It was lovely, yet tannic and will be better in time.
 
Torre del Pagus Aglianico Taburno DOCG 2013, Italy
This wine spent 12 months in oak, with another year aging in bottle before release. It was  elegant, with good structure and lots of red fruit notes.


Stop and smell the La Copa! Gonzalez-Byass releases two Vermouth options

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Vermouth is more often tossed into cocktails than sipped on its own. But, good Vermouth is great on its own. These aromatized wines combine fortified wine with an array of fruit, spices and herbs to create an intriguing combination of aromas and flavors.

Recently released by Gonzalez-Byass, the La Copa Vermouths feature not just any fortified wine, but Sherry! Available in two options: Extra dry and Rojo (Red), the La Copa Vermouths are definitely worth mixing into your next cocktail, but can easily be enjoyed as an aperitif or digestif.

Famed Sherry producer Gonzalez-Byass has a long history of producing Vermouth, with historical references at the company that date back to 1896. These new releases are based on the original recipes and the labels echo those found in their archives.

TASTING NOTES

Gonzalez-Byass La Copa Vermouth Extra Seco, $24.99
100% Palomino
For this wine, Gonzalez-Byass selects a number of dry Fino Sherries, which have been aged for an average of 3 years and then are infused with an assortment of botanicals of wormwood, savory, clove, cinnamon as well as as red fruits. It is very floral on the nose, with herbs and baking spices. On the palate, it is dry, with just a hint of sweetness on the attack, beautifully balanced and fresh, with herbs, flowers and citrus lingering in the long finish.

Gonzalez-Byass La Copa Vermouth Rojo, $24.99
75% Palomino, 25% Pedro Ximenez
This Vermouth brings together Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez Sherries that are more than 8 years old, with a blend of botanicals including wormwood, clove, orange peel, nutmeg and cinnamon. The wine is pale mahogany in color, with notes of mushrooms, herbs, spices, clove and cinnamon are most prominent. It is off-dry to medium sweet on the palate, full-bodied with medium+ length and flavors of bitter orange and spice. Overall, it is complex and very refreshing despite the sweetness.

Lugana DOC dines at Jing Fong, two souls and lots of happiness

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While the adage, “What grows together, goes together,” is a great place to start for food and wine pairing inspiration, if you don’t explore beyond it, you will miss out. As part of her Inaugural Lugana Dinner Series, East Coast Lugana Ambassador, Susannah Gold, proved the point in spades with a recent Chinese banquet accompanied by a variety of wines from the Consorzio Lugana DOC. Held at Jing Fong, Susannah and Pinny Tam, author of Chinese Wine and Food Pairings.com, put together an amazing meal that highlighted the flexibility and diversity of these wines.

Kicking off the event with a warm welcome, Susannah noted that the Lugana DOC had two souls in that it uniquely spans two Italian regions: Lombardy and the Veneto, depending upon which side of Lake Garda the winery is situated. This beautiful area sits essentially at sea level, with elevations of only 50-150 meters, on a glacial moraine with a range of sediment in the soils, including fossils.

This small winemaking region is on the rise, having increased production from 9 million bottles in 2015 to 18.9 million bottles currently. Today, there are 200 producers and, in addition to the increased volume, it is experiencing increased interest, notably by the Germans, who frequent the region as tourists, but also from American consumers.

At the center of its wine production is the Turbiana grape, which is also known as Trebbiano di Lugana. A biotype of Verdicchio, which is most associated with the Marche region, it, too, has the propensity to age. Although the wines are generally dry, the super high acidity is balanced with approximately 7 g/l of residual sugar, which permitted them to pair well with the Asian cuisine.

In business for 78 years, Jing Fong is one of the oldest Catnonese restaurants in the U. S. At the helm is Executive Chef, Kai Fung Lai, also known as Chef Fung who has been with Jing Fong for over 20 years.

The sumptuous banquet featured Catonese cuisine, which Pinny explained was known for a simple approach (not overly covered with sauces) and also a lot of seafood and fish, given the southern province’s proximity to the sea and river. Moreover, she further advised that stir-frying is the most common cooking method, resulting in clean, not overly greasy, food. Additionally, she cited frequent use of garlic, ginger, scallion, cornstarch and sugar, rice wine as the base for seasonings.

Referred to as a Happiness Dinner, our banquet was served family-style, with each course presented in the center of the table before being served on our individual plates. It was an elevated family meal, with flourishes added to celebrate birthdays and other festive occasions. And, boy were we happy! The courses kept coming, spanning from fried rice and fried fish to lobster and a platter of cuttlefish adorned with its own floral arrangement.

Moreover, the wines truly held their own. Although there was certainly a thread that ran through them, each of the wines had a distinctive characteristic that permitted it to match the next course. It was a wonderful evening of great wine, great food and great company… and lots of happiness!

Our full menu:

  • Baked scallops with crispy seafood rolls
  • Sautéed cuttlefish with vegetables
  • Sautéed shrimp and chicken
  • Assorted seafood in a basket
  • Oriental steak filet
  • Crispy whole chicken
  • Fried filet of fish with minced garlic
  • Steamed lobster with garlic over E-Fu Noodles
  • House Fried Rice
  • Dessert: Coconut Gelatin and Fresh Orange Segments

TASTING NOTES

Cantina Bulgarini Lugana DOC 2017
This Lombardy-based, family-run winery is currently in the hands of Fausto Bulgarini, a member of the third generation to manage the winery and a collector of race cars. This wine was fresh, with floral and peach notes, a dry palate, high acidity, minerality and long length.

Le Morette Mandolara Lugana DOC 2017
Named for a popular bird native to the region, which was considered sacred during the Etruscan period, this winery was founded in 1955 and is in the Veneto. It was fuller bodied that the Cantina Bulgarini, with rich and concentrated flavors of peach and almond, culminating in long length.

The vibrant acidity and fresh fruit notes on these first two wines made them an especially excellent accompaniment to the fried and creamy dishes.

Cà Maiol Molin Lugana DOC Molin 2017
This wine takes its name from one of the estate’s old farms. It offered up lively acidity and was slightly frizzante on the palate, along with tropical fruit, citrus, minerality and long length.

Cesari Cento Filari Lugana DOC 2016
With 5% of Chardonnay added to the Turbiana, coupled with a long macertation, this wine had more structure and richness, displaying an almost a creamy note, with less fruit and more structure. As a result, it paired extremely well with the lobster dish. Ca

Dei Frati Brolettino Lugana DOC 2016
This Lombardy winery was founded in 1939. The wine possessed full body, with apple and toothpick aromas and flavors thanks to its oak aging, along with medium acidity and enough body and structure to match with the chicken and steak.

Tenuta Roveglia Lugana DOC Vendage Tardive Filo di Arianna 2014
Tenuta Roveglia was established by a Swiss businessman In 1930. This wine is harvested in late October/ early November, by hand, and then fermented and aged in small oak barrels, yielding a wine with depth, richness and concentration. Notes of honey and citrus dominated the nose and palate, joined with long length. It works well with dessert, unctuous cheeses or rich meats.