Category Archives: Tasting Notes

Make Mine Spumante (Grand Cru Grapevine: December 2011)

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While France and Champagne are frequently the standard bearers for sparkling wines, Italy is not to be outdone in this regard. In fact, Italian sparklers run the gamut from light and lively quaffers to complex, yeast-aged wines and everything in between. Although many Italian appellations include the provision, “May be spumante (sparkling),” in their regulations, the best examples are usually those that come from the designated fizz regions such as Trento, Franciacorta, Moscato d’Asti, Asti, Prosecco and Brachetto d’Acquis. With this broad selection of sparkling wines, one is sure to find the perfect Italian sparkler with which to toast the holiday season and beyond.

Rivaling the yeasty, toasty character of Champagne, Italy’s Trento and Franciacorta appellations offer similar aromas and flavors in these Traditional Method wines. During the dawn of the 20th century, Giulio Ferrari was intrigued with the quality of France’s sparkling wines and went to study in Montpelier to learn how to make them. He returned to his hometown in Trentino and set about creating his wine. In 1952, he sold the company to the Lunelli family which has continued to maintain the high standards set by Ferrari. Produced identically to Champagne, these wines rely almost exclusively on Chardonnay, with the occasional use of Pinot Noir. Today, other producers in the area also ascribe to these standards, which were codified in 1993 with the creation of the Metodo Classico Trento DOC, the first Italian appellation for a sparkling wine. These wines must undergo a secondary fermentation in the bottle, with a minimum of 15 months aging on the lees.

Italy’s Lombardy region is home to Franciacorta, which is also produced using the same, time-consuming Traditional Method of sparkling wine production as that used in Champagne. However, beyond its reliance on Champagne’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, Franciacorta also includes Pinot Gris and Pinot Bianco in its recipe, if the producer so desires. In 1995, Franciacorta was established as a DOCG (Italy’s highest appellation level), with regulations requiring a minimum of two years aging before release, of which 18 months must include contact with the lees. Franciacorta’s vintage wines are those which have been aged for 37 months be in contact with the yeast, while rosés must contain at least 15% Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir). The specially labeled Franciacorta Satèn must be produced solely from white grapes, specifically Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, and at a reduced pressure of 4.5 bars instead of 6.

For a more aromatic and less expensive option, look to Prosecco to fill your glass. In general, Proseccos are vibrant and fruity, exhibiting the aromatic characteristics of the Glera grape. Produced via the Italian (aka Charmat) method of sparkling wine production, the floral and fruit aromas and flavors are retained, rather than masked through the use of stainless steel and minimal contact with yeast/lees (unlike the Traditional method). Meant to be drunk young, the wines are increasingly being vintage-dated (most were previously non-vintaged) to provide the consumer with more information. In 2009, the appellation was promoted to DOCG status, with production limited to the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene.

Toward the end of the meal, turn to Piedmont for sweet-style sparklers. Here, the Moscato (Muscat) grape is known for producing aromatic wines that are available in lightly sparkling (frizzante) and fully sparkling (spumante) versions. The sweet and grapey Moscato d’Asti DOCG and Asti DOCG both have low alcohol, light body and fragrant floral notes, making them the perfect accompaniment to fruit-based desserts. Although both are produced from the same grape variety and in the same region, the former wine has a higher sugar content, lower alcohol level and fewer atmospheres of pressure, which accounts for the use of a regular wine bottle. In comparison, the Asti is fully sparkling at an average 7% abv, with a gentle froth on the palate. For chocolate desserts, try Brachetto d’Acquis. Made with the red Brachetto grape, this Piemontese sparkling wine offers up raspberry and strawberry aromas and flavors, coupled with soft sweetness on the palate.

Ca’ del Bosco, Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige NV, Lombardy, Italy, $50.00
Considered to be one of the top producers in Franciacorta, Ca’ del Bosco was established in 1968 by Maurizio Zanella. A blend of 75% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Nero and 10% Pinot Bianco, this full-bodied wine has been bottle aged for a minimum of 28 months with rich, toasty notes on the nose and palate. A slight nuttiness lingers in the long finish.

Ferrari, Giulio Ferrari Riserva 2001 Trentino, Italy, $100.00
Produced from a single vineyard of 15 year old vines, this special cuvée is named for founder Giulio Ferrari with wines aged for a minimum of 10 years on the lees. These beautifully rich wines are capable of great aging as evidenced by the complexity revealed in a tasting of the 1986, 1995, 1997, 2000 and 2001 vintages. The company also makes its vintage-dated Perlé in a blanc de blancs (100% Chardonnay) and a rosé (80% Pinot Nero and 20% Chardonnay), in addition to their non-vintage brut ($25.00) and rosé ($37.00) wines.

Peri, Talento Brut Millesimato Metodo Classico 2007, Lombardy, Italy, $30.00
Although this 100% Chardonnay sparkler is produced near the Franciacorta appellation, it is done so under the broader geographical appellation of Montenetto di Brescia. Produced using the Traditional Method, the wine showed some yeasty notes along with citrus and apple on the palate.

Bel Canto di Bellussi, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Extra Dry, Veneto, Italy, $13.00
Purchased by the Martellozzo family in 1993, Belllusi is presently run by Enrico, the third generation in his family to work in the wine business. With a fine perlage, this wine displays red apple and floral notes on both the nose and palate. Off-dry and light, it is quite elegant.

Ricossa, Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy, $15.00
The Ricossa Antica Casa winery dates to the 1800s when it was founded by Lorenzo Ricossa. This wine has pronounced aromas of floral, peach and honey on the nose. Its sweet palate offers fresh peaches, grapes and honey before finishing cleanly.

Quick Sips

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A number of wine samples crossed my dining table in the latter half of 2011. Some were quite nice; others were amazingly good. Here are the highlights.

Italy Calling

The Frescobaldi Remole 2009, Tuscany, Italy ($10.00) is a country level wine (it’s labeled as IGT Toscana) that combines 85% Sangiovese with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. With leafy, cherry and vegetal aromas and flavors, the wine was in keeping with its Sangiovese origins, but the Cabernet Sauvignon was more evident on the palate, with black fruit lingering in the finish. A nice value at this price and an excellent foil for the homemade pizza we paired with which we paired it.

A more traditional “Super Tuscan” style wine, Frescobaldi’s Tenuta di Castiglioni 2008, Tuscany, Italy ($22.00) switches the blend to lead with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and only 10% Sangiovese. The nose presents blackberry, mint, smoke and slight vegetative aromas, while the palate offers bright acidity, firm tannins, full body and black cherry, vegetal, mint and cedar flavors. Overall, it is nicely structured with some complexity.

From further south, the Xavier Flouret Quattro Canti 2007, Sicily, Italy ($24.00) offers an interesting 50-50 mix of the indigenous Nero d’Avola with the non-traditional Cabernet Franc, aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. This deep colored wine had aromas of plum, vanilla, oak, licorice and some spice with dusty tannins, ripe, jammy fruit flavors of plum, cocoa, black cherry, vanilla and oak, with medium+ length.

You had me at Pinot

A  Pinot Noir “taste off” pitted Foppiano Pinot Noir 2008, Russian River Valley, CA ($25.00) against Bouchaine Pinot Noir 2007, Carneros, CA ($30.00) with the following results. The Bouchaine showed cherry, black cherry and vanilla aromas, which were joined by spice and herbs with vibrant acidity, medium+ body, ripe tannins and long length on the palate. The Foppiano offering was a bit shier on the nose, with less pronounced aromas of cherry and herbs. Bright red fruit, spice and wood dominated the slightly lighter-bodied palate, culminating in long length.

Down by the bay

Shifting attention down under, a series of wines from Hawkes Bay were tasted in anticipation of a New Zealand wine seminar given at the American Wine Society’s annual conference.

Among the whites, the Decibel Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($14.00) showed citrus and grassy aromas on the nose, giving way to lemon, lime marmalade, slight grass and minerality with high acidity and medium+ body, while the Te Awa Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($18.00) displayed more grapefruit and pith with slightly less acidity on the palate. The Te Awa Chardonnay 2009 ($27.00) offered apple notes with slight oak and mineral character, which were joined by citrus and spice flavors on the full-bodied palate.

Moving onto the reds, the Te Awa Syrah 2009 ($27.00) had fresh fruit aromas of blackberry with a hint of oak followed by spice, earth, leather and black cherry flavors with medium acidity, full body,  med tannins and long length. The more unusual, varietally-labeled Decibel Malbec 2009 ($18.00) is a blend of blueberry, cranberry and slight spice on the nose with ripe tannins, medium+ acidity and rich blueberry and blackberry notes on the palate.

German Riesling and beyond

I ended the year with several German wines including Silvaner, Lemberger and Riesling.

The P.J. Vlackenberg Gewürztraminer 2010, Pfalz, Germany ($14.00) has pronounced aromas of spice, floral and pear, which persisted on the off dry palate with medium+ body and medium length.

With notes of pear, blossom and smoke, the Castell-Castell Silvaner Trocken 2010, Franken, Germany ($18.00)’s palate gives way to riper versions of these aromas on its light-bodied palate.

A nice red, quaffing wine, the Grafen Neipperg Lemberger 2010, Württemberg, Germany ($24.00) greets the nose with cherry, plum and slight spice and finishes with medium length.

The Liebfrauenstift Dry Riesling 2010, Rheinhessen, Germany ($15.00) is a good value, food friendly wine, offering  fresh citrus and candied lemon aromas, with good acidity on the dry palate.

Enjoyed on Christmas day and shared with close friends, the Baron zu Knyphausen Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Erste Lage 2009, Rheingau, Germany ($57.00) was a wonderful surprise. Displaying floral, citrus and tangerine aromas on the nose, the dry palate offered piercing acidity with rich, ripe flavors of peach, tangerine, citrus pith, lime zest, floral and minerality, finishing with a very long length. Truly amazing.

Campania in a Glass

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The scent of freshly fermenting grapes pervaded the air. We had arrived in Avellino early on a Saturday morning and were warmly welcomed by Eliana at Mastroberardino. Harvest had just begun and things were in full swing at the winery.

Eliana showed us through the cellars where we admired large botti maturing the next generation of Taurasi. These oak vessels are much larger than the typical barrel (225 l) and impart less wood influence on the finished wine due to the limited surface area compared to the voume of wine.

Almost more art gallery than aging room, the ceilings of the cellars are adorned with beautiful frescos commissioned by Mastroberardino to depict wine-related scenes such as the marriage of Bacchus. After this tour, we watched a brief video on the winery and its history, and then Eliana brought us to the wine cellar. Again, artistic elements decorated the room, which housed old bottles of Mastroberardino wines, including bottles from 1928.

We paused to admire current bottles for sale in the winery’s retail shop before heading to Mastroberardino’s resort, Mirabella, about 30 minutes away.

Following Eliana’s Fiat in our own car, we drove through small towns and took in the view of vineyards we passed along the way. Here, we noted interesting trellising techniques with the vines trained very high.

As we pulled into Mirabella, we saw the lovely facade of the main building, but continued to drive a bit further onto the property so that we could view the vineyards, golf course — a tournament was underway during our visit, and pool house.

Reluctantly, we willed ourselves away from the staggering beauty of the hillside vines, and headed in to lunch in the main dining room. We were treated to a multi-course meal, paired with the exquisite Mastroberardino wines. Each delicious course was joined with at least one wine, all of which complemented the food. Finally, we enjoyed a few last bites of dessert and then espresso before saying our goodbyes and thank yous to Eliana.

Our next stop was Feudi di San Gregorio, which is situated in the opposite direction, near Irpina. Upon our arrival at Feudi, we were greeted by Emanuela who served as our guide for the remainder of the day.

The on-again, off-again rain let up just enough to permit us to wander through the hanging gardens before we walked over to the crush pad. A new load of grapes had just arrived and the lugs were being lifted off the truck, setting things in motion.

The tour of Feudi’s cellars included views of their pupitres (riddling racks), botti, barrels and a special creche. We were briefly permitted to enter the actual winery, but the winemaker quickly shooed us out for fear that we might be overcome by the carbon dioxide seeping from the fermentation tanks.

Emanuela then brought us to a modern part of the winery, which housed its retail/wine bar area and a place for us to sit and taste their wines. We started with their sparkling wines, which were really lovely. Unfortunately, these wines are not exported to the U.S., so you’re restricted to enjoying them in Italy (although there are worse places to be restricted to be). The tasting continued with Feudi’s still wines.

Overall, the tastings provided strong evidence as to why these two wineries are so highly regarded. Standouts at Mastroberadino included the Falanghina, showing mineral, herbal and citrus notes on both the nose and palate, and the Radici Taurasi Riserva 2004, which displayed perfume, oak, vanilla, smoke, berries and other dark fruit flavors. My favorites at Feudi were its full-bodied Cutizzi Greco di Tufo with stone, spice and apple aromas and the Piano di Montevergine Taurasi Riserva 2002 with floral, black fruit, licorice and long length.

 

An Honorable Mention for Mencia

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Autoctona del Bierzo, an organization established to represent several wineries from the Bierzo DO wine region made its first official visit to the U.S. in early May. Located in northwest Spain, the region is made up of a group of small valleys coupled with wider, flatter areas known as low Bierzo. Situated within the province of León, this region is relatively small and is comprised of many producers each with a relatively limited amount of land. Here, the mild climate has some humidity, but the low altitude prevents problems with frosts.

The region’s flagship grape is Mencia (also known as Negress), a red variety that adapts well to the local climate. Although the variety dates to Roman times, its current cultivation is limited to the Iberian Peninsula. It accounts for 65% of plantings in Bierzo, supplemented by Garnacha Tintorera and the experimental Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Typically, Mencia is used to produce both reds and roses. Its thin skins and soft flesh result in wines with light tannins and a velvety palate, with cherry and strawberry as the predominant fruit notes. Many producers make their wines from 100% Mencia. However, with differences in vine age, varied use of oak and aging periods, each winery has a full portfolio often ranging from unwooded styles and young (those labeled as Joven) to aged Crianza and Reserva wines. The May tasting provided an opportunity to taste this grape in several iterations and I was particularly impressed with Bodegas Estefania’s line-up.

The region itself is also home to indigenous white varieties including Palomino and Godello, the latter of which offers wines with good body and apple aromas. Dona Blanca, a mildly aromatic grape, makes up only 10% of all plantings and is on the decline.

The opportunity to meet these producers and taste through their wines was eye-opening and I am sure we will see more of Bierzo in the years to come.

WHITE WINES

Bodega Luzdivina Amigo, Baloiro Blanco 2010, Bierzo, Spain,16.00
This blend of 60% Palomino and 40% Dona Blanca was produced from 60-70 year old vines. Sharp cheese and sherry-like aromas greeted the nose. On the palate, the wine was rich and concentrated with yeast, citrus and a slight oxidized note, which gave the wine some depth.

Bodega Luzdivina Amigo, Baloiro Godella 2009, Bierzo, Spain, $34.00
With only 600 bottles produced, this wine is quite limited. It was aged for 8 months in French oak, with the wood showing on both the nose and palate in addition to fresh herbs, tarragon and citrus.

Palacio de Canedo Prada a Tope Blanco 2009, Bierzo, Spain, $N/A
Produced from 100% Godello, this wine displayed youth aromas of flowers and herbs, which persisted on the full-bodied palate with the addition of lime.

RED WINES

Bodegas Estefania Tilenus 2010, Bierzo, Spain, $15.00
This unwooded wine is comprised of 100% Mencia. It is very youthful with bright, fresh berry and cherry notes.

Bodegas Estefania Tilenus Envejecido 2007, Bierzo, Spain, $20.00
Produced from old Mencia vines ranging from 30-50 years old, half of this wine was aged in tank with the remainder in wood (a combination of both French and American barrels) for 8-12 months. Slightly less bright on the palate than the young wine, it still showed lively acidity, with strawberry, cherry and licorice.

Bodegas Estefania Tilenus Crianza 2005, Bierzo, Spain, $30.00
Low yielding Mencia vines averaging 60-80 years old were sourced for this wine. The barrel aging regimen wasn’t specified, but as a Crianza, it would have been longer than the Envejecido. This wine was more herbal on the nose likely due to its age, with more noticeable oak on the palate.

Bodegas Estefania Tilenus Pagos de Posada 2003, Bierzo, Spain, $50.00
This limited production wine comes from a single vineyard with Mencia vines at or older than 80 years old. Yields are exceedingly low (1 kg/ha). Oak and leafy notes took precedence over the faded strawberry aromas, but the palate was still lively with leaf, oak, strawberry, raspberry, tobacco, culminating in long length.

Bodegas Estefania Tilenus Pieros 2002, Bierzo, Spain, $120.00
This wine hails from a small, rare plot of land, planted exclusively to Mencia. There was an absence of fruit on the nose, instead, developing aromas of tobacco leaf, dried herbs and pencil lead dominated. The wine showed light minerality on palate, with concentrated strawberry and leafy flavors. Overall, the wine was complex, and balanced, with extremely long length.

Chianti Colli Senesi: Siena’s Hill

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There is Chianti; there is Chianti Classico (the area restricted to the historic or heartland of the region); and then there are Chianti’s seven subzones – Montalbano, Colli Fiorentini, Rufina, Colli Aretini, Colline Pisane, Montespertoli and Colli Senesi.  A slice of the more general Chianti appellation, Chianti Colli Senesi has its own DOCG and adheres to stricter regulations that require lower yields (8,000 vs. 9,000). Within Colli Senesi there are three main areas, making up an 80 km stretch of land, located in the hills above the town of Siena.

Although Colli Senesi is the largest Chianti sub-appellation, compared to Chianti and Chianti Classico which produce 80 million and 23-28 million bottles annually, respectively, Colli Senesi is responsible for only 8 million bottles and is home to 500 producers. Since the subzone’s territory is also part of the larger Chianti area, producers within the delimited area can choose whether they will produce Chianti or Chianti Colli Senesi at the time of harvest.

The region has a long history of winemaking dating to the Etruscans who settled in Siena 2,500 years ago and began making wine. In 1716, Duke Cosimo I established the area, with the local wines further defined in 1841, when Ricasoli created the Chianti recipe. The original formula included, and in fact, required, a blend of both white and red grapes. While the white varieties are no longer part of the Chianti Classico regulations, they are still permitted in Colli Senesi and, if included, are used to mellow the tannins and set the color. Regardless of the producer’s choice of grapes, the wine must be comprised of at least 75% Sangiovese. Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia and Trebbiano, along with up to 10% Merlot and/or Cabernet Sauvignon, may supplement the blend, depending upon the winemaker’s philosophy.

While there is no specific taste profile to these wines that set them apart from other Chianti wines, the head of the Chianti Colli Senesi Consortio was adamant about stressing the reduced yields as a point of differentiation, higher quality, and clearly, pride. Accordingly, at least in theory, these wines should be of a higher quality than basic Chianti.

As elsewhere, each vintage brings its own set of challenges and harvest 2011 did not disappoint in that regard. Typically, the Chianti Colli Senesi area experiences a decrease in heat on or around August 15, but, this year, Mother Nature had other plans. Instead of cooler temperatures, the remainder of August and into September was quite hot.

Consequently, grapes raisined on the vine in the intensity providing good conditions for vin santo, but requiring a quick response to harvest grapes for the dry whites.  It also meant that everything was in full swing when we visited in the last week of September.

Our arrival in the midst of harvest activities gave us the opportunity to catch mechanical harvesters, sorting tables and crusher/destemmers in action. We watched as grapes were loaded into the machines which quickly spit out stems, getting the grapes ready for the next stage in the process toward becoming wine. The heavenly scent of fermenting grapes followed us everywhere, but kept us out of a few cellars for safety.

Moreover, we were invited to participate in a traditional dinner, which celebrates the harvest and brings all of the field workers together, at Fattoria Campopalazzi. The working farm property at Fattoria Campopalazzi is presided over by Anna Maria Di Rienzo, a PhD-trained scientist, who has harnessed her scientific knowledge and put it to work at the winery.  Anna Maria and her husband graciously received our group on our third evening, providing us with a brief tour of the winery and the rooms she rents out as a bed and breakfast.

We were then led to an arbored patio where we toasted the harvest with her employees and feasted on bread, salami, cheeses, olives and other assorted fare. Little did we know that this was only the aperitif. Moving to a room upstairs in the farm house, we somehow found room to consume a full dinner and taste through several wines.

At dinner, we were joined by Anna Maria’s consulting winemaker from Fattoria Montepescini, which we had visited earlier in the day. This winery is located in the village of Montepescini, which is home to less than 30 inhabitants.

Another stop took us to Castel di Pugna, named for a nearby battle in which Siena triumphed over the Florentines back in the 1200s. Today, the property is owned by Count Carlo Alberto Fumi Cambi Gado and his son, Luigi Alberto. The castle itself dates to 1259 and their historic cellar is carved out underground from the tufa soil. Production for their four wines is limited to 14ha of estate grown fruit, all of which is hand-harvested. We were provided with a beautiful luncheon at which we tasted their basic Chianti Colli Senesi, the Riserva and a Supertuscan called Castelpugna.

At Campriano, we were greeted by owner, Ranuccio Neri, who explained that his newer plantings focus on higher densities and lower yields. Ranuccio’s chef, Roberta, gave us a lesson on the art of making gnocchi, while he gave us a primer on recent vintages, noting that 2007 was a hot year, while 2006 and 2008 were more moderate, with 2006 being better than 2008.

Our host further acknowledged that 2001 had been a particularly good year, providing excellent growing conditions. Not surprisingly, he produced a Riserva wine that year, which was showing beautifully that afternoon. To qualify as Riserva, the wine must possess a full degree higher of alcohol (11.5% vs. 12.5% abv for Riserva) and be aged in a combination of wood and bottle for a minimum of one year.

Ranuccio invited us for lunch at his property, at which we enjoyed the fruits (or, perhaps, more correctly the pasta) of our labor and tasted through several different vintages of Campriano wine. We concluded the meal with a chocolate tart and a glass of Ranuccio’s vin santo, which was, hands-down, the group’s favorite vin santo of the entire trip. It was truly a perfect ending to the meal.

 TASTING NOTES

Montepescini, Chianti Colli Senesi 2010, Tuscany, Italy
Tasted from a barrel sample, this wine displayed black cherry and floral notes on both the nose and palate. The firm tannins need some time to soften.

Bindi Sergardi, Chianti Colli Senesi 2009, Tuscany, Italy
This wine has aromas of floral, dried herbs and cherry. The richly layered palate offered vibrant acidity, ripe cherry and dried herb flavors and beautiful balance.

Campopalazzi, Chianti Colli Senesi 2008, Tuscany, Italy
This wine showed Sangiovese’s savory character with notes of tomato leaf as well as black cherry. On the palate, it had bright acidity, with cherry, tomato and dried herb flavors, along with dusty tannins.

Montalpruno, Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2007, Tuscany, Italy
Notes of sweet, red fruit and candy greeted the nose. On the palate, this wine showed vibrant acidity, with firm tannins (it needs some time) along with strawberry and cherry jam and an undercurrent of tropical fruit.

Castel di Pugna Ellera, Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2005, Tuscany, Italy
A blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo Nero, this wine was aged for 24 months in oak barrels, with an additional six months of bottle aging before release. Herbal and red fruits dominated the nose and palate.

Campriano, Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2001, Tuscany, Italy
Despite its age, the wine’s color showed only a slight shift toward garnet. Vegetal and cherry notes greeted the nose and were joined by spice and herbs on the lively palate, culminating in long length.

Campriano, Vin Santo 2006, Tuscany, Italy
With its pronounced aromas of coffee, nuts, honey and caramel that persisted on the palate, this medium sweet wine had balanced acidity and long length.

 

 

Vernaccia di San Gimignano’s Medieval Magic

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I first discovered the wines of Vernaccia di San Gimignano when on vacation in Florence back in 2001. This crisp, white wine was a perfect accompaniment to the wonderful food we ate. And, on a day trip to Siena, we made a brief stop in the “medieval Manhattan” before returning to Florence. The one hour in which we scampered around the walled town, with its imposing towers, and stumbled upon an olive oil festival, reinforced our fascination with this tiny village and cemented its image into my memory. Ten years later, I found myself back in Tuscany wondering if the magic would still be there.

On our first evening in Siena, the first course of zucchini blossoms stuffed with ricotta cheese was paired with two Vernaccias. In tasting them, I discovered something interesting – the second of the two wines was showing some development. I enjoyed the aged characteristics of this wine, pleasantly surprised that these wines had the ability to mature with time in the bottle. This was a new side to this wine, further capturing my attention.

When we finally arrived in San Gimignano a few days later, I held my breath, convinced that my fond memories of this town had been overblown in my mind with the passage of time. Yet, as we rounded the corner, I could see the city walls and its towers overhead and my heart leapt. I was still in awe.

After a guided tour through the city, we arrived at the Museo de Vino where we were given a proper introduction to the wine, complete with a visit from San Gimignano’s mayor. The indigenous Vernaccia grape is quite ancient, with historical evidence of its existence dating to the 13th century with literary mentions of it found in Dante’s Divine Comedy. However, despite this illustrious past, the grape fell out of favor until after the World War II.

But, the grape and its wine were soon resurrected with the Vernaccia di San Gimignano appellation becoming the first to earn Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) status in 1966 with a promotion to DOCG in 1993. It holds the additional distinction of being one of the only white wines within Italy to include a Riserva designation. Wines labeled as such have undergone an aging period of at least 24 months, of which a portion must be spent in oak.

While many tourists become familiar with this wine on holiday in the area (as did I), this has served as a double-edged sword for the appellation in that much of the wine consumed in this manner was of lesser quality, marring the reputation of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Today, this is changing as producers have shifted their focus toward improving the quality of their wines, which was evident in the tasting conducted at the Museo. And, lest you think that the tasting was fixed, we were given the opportunity to taste through over 40 wines. Moreover, the Consorzio is giving careful consideration to its appellation laws, having recently developed a list of forbidden grapes for the 10% or less of the blend that is permitted (a minimum of 90% Vernaccia is required).

On its own, Vernaccia di San Gimignano characteristically offers up notes of alomnd, mineral and earth, which can evolve with bottle age. Also, similarly to Chardonnay, the grape’s non-aromatic nature takes well to oak treatment, yielding additional complexity to the resulting wines. The best examples showed a range of aromas and flavors from floral and herbal tea to lime, minerality and spice.

Within the region, there are a wide range of producers, most of which are family run and relatively small in size. The exception to this rule is Teruzzi & Puthod, which was initially established by Mr. Teruzzi, but is now owned by Gruppo Campari and is among the largest and most modern in the area. Here, the vast size of the production has permitted the winery to make significant investments in state-of-the-art technology from unique fermentation vats to an extremely sophisticated bottling line.

At Montenidoli, Maria Elisabetta Fagiuoli is at the helm, having bought the land with money from her grandmother, an unusually independent move at the time.  Whereas Maria Elizabetta’s husband Sergio is a poet by profession, Maria herself is a bit of a philosopher. She was quick to advise us that, “I am not a winemaker. I am a nurse of the land; the earth is the winemaker,” and also quipped, “Wine and people are the same; they get better with age or become vinegar.” Her wines are deserving of such meditative thoughts as they too give the taster pause in their depth and elegance.

The region is not without its royalty, with Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi owned by Count Robert Guicciardini and Prince Girolamo Strozzi. Prince Strozzi’s daughters, Princesses Natalia and Irina, are the 15th generation direct descendants to Lisa Gherardini del Giocondo, the actual Mona Lisa. Although the company owns several estates, its Vernaccia production takes place at the 530 ha estate at Villa Cusona, which dates to 994 and has been home to winemaking since the 1200s.

Although less regal in its heritage, a visit to Poderi del Paradiso is truly a visit to paradise with its sweeping vistas of beautiful vineyards presided over by San Gimignano’s towers. Owned by the Cetti family, who originally came to San Gimignano as serfs in the Middle Ages, the family rose to prominence and wealth in only two generations. The current generation acquired Poderi del Paradiso in 1973.

With its storied history, Vernaccia di San Gimignano is steeped in Italy’s tradition, but, with producers’ renewed emphasis on quality, the appellation is also poised to produce great wines now and in the future…with hard work, dedication and perhaps, a bit of medieval magic.

TASTING NOTES

Montenidoli Carato Riserva 2007, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Italy
A complex nose of floral, chamomile tea, tidal pool and a hint of butterscotch gives way to spice, mineral and savory characteristics on the full-bodied, dry palate and culminates in long length.

Poderi del Paradiso Biscondola 2010, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Italy
Produced from a single vineyard, the grapes were picked two weeks later than those for its base wine. Almond, floral, lime greeted the nose and persisted on the dry palate, joined by concentrated flavors of apple peel and minerality.

Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi 2010, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Italy
With floral, mineral and citrus pith aromas, this wine has a dry palate and offered typical bitter almond notes in its long finish.

Tenuta Le Calcinaie 2010, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Italy
From an organic producer, this wine has floral, tidal pool, mineral and lime aromas, with juicy lime and minerality on the dry palate. The rush to pick early after a rainy summer resulted in brighter acidity than usual, adding to the austerity of this wine and its clean finish.

Teruzzi & Puthod Rondolino 2010, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Italy
Notes of floral, almond and citrus showed on both the nose and palate, with a slight nuttiness lingering in the long length.

NB: Although not strictly of the Vernaccia di San Gimignano appellation, Montenidoli’s Il Templar and Teruzzi & Puthod’s Terre di Tufi (both Vernaccia blends, labeled as IGT Toscana) are worth seeking out as well. The former wine has significant staying power with a tasting of the 1999 not belying its age. In a mini-vertical tasting of Terre di Tufi 2007, 2008 and 2009, my preference was for the 2008.

I’m Down with DAC (Grand Cru Grapevine: November 2011)

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At 26, Roman Pfaffl, Jr. is a not only a handsome, young man and a winning athlete (his all-winemaker soccer team recently won in Munich), but, most importantly, he is quite charming. OK, even more importantly than that, he makes great wine. The Austrian winemaker is now at the helm of his family’s winery, having been passed the reigns (or perhaps more correctly, the refractometer) at a ceremony in August of this year. Although Roman has started to implement some changes (i.e. new pruning techniques and experimentation with different types of oak), he does admit that his parents are “still the bosses.” Joined by his sister Heidemarie, who handles marketing, the business is truly a family affair.

Established in 1978, Pfaffl Winery was created when Roman (Sr.) and wife Adelheid converted the family farm in Weinviertel (which translates as “wine quarter”), near Austria’s capital of Vienna, from potatoes to grape vines. Today, the Pfaffls have 80 hectares in total under vine, 65% of which is planted to white grapes.

Among the Pfaffl’s holdings are several highly prized parcels – Haidviertel (in the town of Stetten) and Hundsleiten (situated on a mountain range near Vienna), both of which prominently feature Grüner Veltliner, where the loess soils impart great minerality to the wines. The equally vaunted Altenberg vineyard highlights the red, St. Laurent grape. The grapes from Haidviertel and Hundsleiten are generally sourced for the Pfaffl’s best wines, which qualify for DAC status.

While Austria’s wines have historically followed a similar approach to that of Germany – using must weight (sugar content) as a designation of quality – the same concern with broad-brushing all Austrian wines as being sweet emerged. Accordingly, Austria sought to further define quality for its dry wines, instituting the terms Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd to indicate increasing levels of ripeness (still equated with quality) for Wachau wines that were dry on the palate. However, many in the industry felt that a more appellation-based system was needed. Enter the DAC.

Austria’s DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) system was launched in 2001, with Weinviertel defined as the first in 2003 (taking effect with the 2002 vintage). To qualify for the DAC designation, the wines must be produced from specified grape varieties, which in the case of Weinviertel is 100% Grüner Veltliner. The Leithaberg DAC, which came on line with the 2008 vintage, is specified for both red (minimum of 85% Blaufränkisch, blended with up to 15% St. Laurent, Zweigelt or Pinot Noir) and white (single variety or blends of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Neuburger and/or Grüner Veltliner). Wines that are produced within these DAC areas, but that don’t meet the DAC requirements must be labeled as Qualitätswein. Five other DACs presently exist, with a few more additions expected down the road.

In speaking about the effect of the DACs, Roman, Jr. indicated that the system has not only improved wine quality, but also has encouraged more young winemakers to get involved in the industry.

In addition to the more general Klassik (classic) level, the Weinviertel DAC also allows for a Reserve level, as of the 2009 vintage, which represents the top wines of the region. While the requirements for Reserve include an increased degree of alcohol, more emphasis is placed on the taste profile expected for these wines. Specifically, Reserve wines should be fuller bodied, with “subtle botrytis notes” and oak aging is permitted (it sn’t for Klassik). A further qualification for all DAC levels is that a six-person tasting panel must unanimously agree that the wine meets the expected caliber for the respective level; without their approval, wines cannot be labeled as DAC.

Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s signature white variety known for citrus, white pepper and mineral characteristics on both the nose and palate. Young examples provide fresh fruit characteristics and vibrant acidity. However, wines produced from older vines and better vineyards are capable of aging for 3-10 years. In this regard, a vertical tasting of wines from the steep, sandstone Hundsleiten vineyard showed off the development of the variety, while also highlighting vintage differences.

Wines produced from Hundsleiten’s 30-year-old vines are fermented in large casks and then aged for 5-6 months in a combination of large, wooden barrels (80%) and stainless steel tanks (20%).

Pfaffl Grüner Veltliner 2010, Hundsleiten Weinviertel DAC Reserve, Weinviertel, Austria, $31.00
Produced from the challenging 2010 vintage, Roman described this wine as being Burgundian in style, which was reinforced by the wine’s aromas and flavors of minerality, wet earth, citrus and restrained, but still noticeable, use of wood. The full-bodied palate was creamy, with long length.

Pfaffl Grüner Veltliner 2006, Hundsleiten Weinviertel DAC Reserve, Weinviertel, Austria, $31.00
While 2006 was a hot year, spring had arrived later than usual, preventing problems with overripe fruit as was seen in 2003. A less intense nose than the 2010, but with more pronounced notes of pepper, orange, wood and yeast.

Pfaffl Grüner Veltliner 2004, Hundsleiten Weinviertel DAC Reserve, Weinviertel, Austria, $31.00
Lots of rain plagued June, which was followed by a cool August, but a dry September and October saved the vintage. This wine showed some development with damp earth, wood and mineral notes, and just a hint of citrus aromas, which were repeated on the dry palate with the addition of a bit of pepper.

Pfaffl Grüner Veltliner 2000, Hundsleiten Weinviertel DAC Reserve, Weinviertel, Austria, $31.00
Near perfect conditions resulted in a great vintage and ideal ripeness. A spicy nose with concentrated orange fruit gave way to rich, ripe orange and tropical fruit on the creamy palate, joined by flavors of spice and wood, throughout the wine’s long length.

Although St. Laurent doesn’t qualify for DAC status, Pfaffl’s wines from this variety were also quite noteworthy.

Pfaffl St. Laurent 2009, Altenberg Estate Qualitätswein, Weinviertel, Austria, $44.00
From a good vintage, this younger wine showed earthy aromas, with a fuller body and more fruit than the 2004, with flavors of cherry, herbs, mint and oak.

Pfaffl St. Laurent 2004, Altenberg Estate Qualitätswein, Weinviertel, Austria, $44.00
This wine offered aromas of spice, earth and concentrated notes of cherry and mulberry. Its dry palate gave way to plum and spice flavors and, in sum, was gorgeous and complex with long length.

 

DiamAndes – A Diamond in the Argentine Rough

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Bruno LaPlane is at home and ensconced in the Bordeaux wine industry having married into the Bonnie family, producers of Château Malartic-Lagravière and Chateau Gazin-Rocquencourt. However, with the increasing popularity of Argentina, he and the Bonnie family were eager to expand their interests. So, when the opportunity to join the Clos de los Siete project in Mendoza arose, they jumped at it. Accordingly, in 2005, the family purchased 130 hectares and built their own winery on the property, completed in 2009. Named for nearby Diamond Lake, in which the reflection of a volcano appears as a diamond, and the imposing Andes mountain range, DiamAndes was born.

DiamAndes released its Gran Reserva wine in New York earlier this year. This flagship wine is a blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.  The company is now ready to introduce additional wines to the market under the name of DiamAndes de Uco, which includes: Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec and Syrah. Another new wine is the entry-level Perlita by DiamAndes, which blends Malbec and Syrah and retails for $10.00/bottle.  Like LePlane, the Malbec grape, which does so well in Argentina’s high altitude vineyards, is also from Bordeaux. Not surprisingly, it accounts for 66% of the DiamAndes plantings.

Although these wines are priced at the value end of the market, they are still produced with the same careful attention to detail as those used in Bordeaux. More specifically, there is a keen emphasis on terroir, self-imposed strict yields (45 hl/ha) and hand harvesting, with a focus on crafting elegant wines. Aside from being located a world away from one another, the difference is that the cost of land and labor makes these Argentina exports much less expensive to produce, while still retaining the high quality for which the Bonnie family is known.

Chardonnay 2010
This grape variety represents 72% of the white plantings at DiamAndes. With a nose of slight spice, pear, some citrus and vanilla, the aromas repeat on the typically full-bodied palate, joined with some slight minerality.

Viognier 2010
Spice, apricot and tangerine aromas persist on the palate, along with floral notes. The full-bodied wine has medium acidity.

Malbec 2010
This wine presents with mostly black fruits and a slight floral character. It has nice acidity, with firm, yet ripe, tannins, becoming more complex on the palate with its flavors of blackberry, spice, vanilla and oak.

Gran Reserva 2007 (70% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon)
A structured and elegant wine with spice, oak, blackberry, bramble fruit and slight eucalyptus notes, the tannins are quite firm, but should mellow with bottle age.

Also see my previous article on the Gran Reserva.

Romania’s Renaissance (Grand Cru Grapevine: October 2011)

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Despite its 4,000 year history of viticulture, like many formerly-Communist countries, Romania found itself at the end of the Cold War with its vineyards in shambles. After years of state ownership, where quantity reined over quality, the wine had suffered greatly. However, during the 1990s, the country’s shift toward privatization has repatriated much of the land, with owners investing significantly in their vineyards and modern winemaking.

And, with the passage of two decades, things have changed for the better. Ranking 6th largest in world wine production, Romanian wines are worthy of a second look. As a victim of the original phylloxera epidemic, many of Romania’s vineyards were replanted to French varieties at that time. Today, a dual focus on both indigenous and international grapes has led to interesting combinations and as well as more commercially-viable wines. For example, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, priced at $7.00/bottle will play well with consumers. Meanwhile, the Feteascas – Alba (white); Regala (royal) and Neagra (black) – all take their name from the word maiden and are uniquely Romanian. The white maiden (Feteasca Alba) is the most popular Romanian grape.

The physical size and geographical diversity of Romania result in creating several different wine regions within the country, each of which has its own microclimate. However, in general, Romania is home to a continental climate, which is moderated by the Black Sea, Danube River and Carpathian Mountains. Dealu Mare, nestled at the foot of the mountains, features red wines, while Tarnave’s emphasis is on white due to its altitude and consequent cooler climate. Similarly, Cotnari, located further north, also focuses on whites. Murfatlar, on the Black Sea, produces both red and white varieties.

With Romania’s entry into the EU in 2007, marketing dollars have begun to flow into the country, permitting it to promote its wines overseas. Accordingly, a trade tasting was held in New York City in April 2011. Wines included the usual suspects – varietally labeled Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir were all on hand to be tasted. However, more intriguing were those produced either solely from indigenous varieties or from unusual blends of both the French and Romanian varieties.

TASTING NOTES

Cramele Recaş Feteasca Regala 2010, Recaş, Romania
Producer Cramele Recas is relatively large with 1,750 acres under vine. With its aromatics of floral and tropical fruit, this wine was reminiscent of Torrontés. The dry palate has high acidity, is medium-full bodied and showed notes of tropical fruit, melon and spice.

Cramele Recaş Solo Quinta 2010, Recaş, Romania
This wine joins Feteasca Regala (30%) with 30% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Grigio and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, the latter of which is vinified as a white wine without any skin contact. The pronounced nose showed notes of citrus, apple, floral and herbs that continued on the dry, full-bodied palate.

Halewood, Pinot Noir 2009, Dealu Mare, Romania
Forty percent of the wine was aged in French oak. The nose offered floral, cherry and berry aromas while the palate provided medium+ acidity, medium tannins and rich cherry/berry flavors mingled with herbal notes.

Senator, Glia Babeasca Neagra 2008, Insuratei, Romania
The second most planted grape variety in Romania, Babeasca Neagra translates as “grandmother’s grape.” Floral and spicy on the nose, this wine’s palate has medium+ acidity and low tannins along with sour black cherry and spice flavors.

Murfatlar, Trei Hectare Feteasca Neagra 2006, Murfatlar, Romania
Murfatlar (a winery named for the region in which it is located) is the largest Romanian producer at 8,200 planted acres. The Feteasca Neagra was showing some development as well as complexity and balance. Dried herbs, dried cherries, earth and cocoa persisted throughout the long length.

Lovable, but Lesser-known Lombardy and its Lago di Garda Wines

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When asked to name an Italian wine region, most people will probably answer Tuscany or Piedmont, while Lombardy is less likely to come to mind. Yet, this northwestern region boasts many high quality wines such as Franciacorta and Valtellina. Known much more for its lake district and its capital city of Milan, Lombardy has attracted U.S. visitors for decades, but its wines generally remain unknown even though its viticultural history dates back to the 1300s.

The sizeable Lago di Garda (Lake Garda) not only adds to the beauty of the area, but also serves as an important climatic influence. Formed by glacial activity, the lake is at the center of concentric hills, which flow westward and is responsible for the area’s Mediterranean climate despite its northerly locale (it shares a border with Switzerland). In addition to grapes, capers, lemon trees and olive groves flourish, marking the northernmost point for these plant species.

Among the red grapes, many indigenous varieties are planted here. Known for its spicy aromatic character, Gropello is the most planted variety with its plantings limited to the slopes of Valtènesi. The local rosé is called Chiaretto and shares the same recipe as the red wine Rosso Garda Classico: Gropello (30% minimum), Marzemino (5% minimum), Barbera (5% minimum) and Sangiovese (5% minimum). The difference between the two wines is in the winemaking. The Chiaretto, produced since the 15th century, has its must separated from the grape skins after a single night’s maceration,. The Classico moniker in Rosso Garda Classico denotes the wine’s origin from the traditional/original viticultural area.

The region’s white grapes are less obscure – Riesling, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay – with the exception of Tocai, which is also known as San Martino. Denominations for white wines include Lugana DOC, San Martino DOC and Benaco Bresciano Bianco IGT. The Chardonnay is also used to make sparkling wines, often blended with Pinot Noir, produced in both the Traditional and Charmat Methods.

That being said, Peri’s Peri Talento Brut IGT 2007 is 100% Chardonnay. Produced using the Traditional Method, the wine showed some yeasty notes along with citrus and apple, finishing cleanly on the palate.

Lugana DOC Perla 2008 from Perla del Garda, blends 90% Trebbiano di Lugana and 10% Chardonnay for a wine with high acidity, citrus notes and minerality.

The indigenous Lugana grape makes its appearance in the Lugana DOC although other white grapes are permitted. Marangona’s Lugana DOC Tre Campane 2008 made solely from this variety has nutty and herbal aromas along with citrus on the dry palate. The Lugana DOC 2008 from Monte Cicogna is 100% Trebbiano di Lugana with aromas of stone and hay joined by citrus, honey, herbal, and bitter almond notes.

The rosé Chiaretto Garda Classico DOC Giovanni Aranzi 2009 is comprised of 60% Gropello, 10% Barbera, 15% Sangiovese and 15% Marzemino and greets the nose with fresh strawberry and cherry. The dry wine shows off its fresh fruit and floral flavors on the palate finishing with a bitter almond note.

Among the reds tasted, the Benaco Bresciano Rosso IGT 2005 Nepomucceno from Cantrina (70% Merlot, 15% Rebo and 10% Marzemino) displays deep, rich black fruit and chocolate. The Cascina Spia d’Italia’s Garda Classico DOC Rosso Superiore 2007 includes the required grapes (percentages unspecified) as well as Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine offers aromas of black fruits, floral and vanilla while berries and bitter almond dominate the palate.

Speaking to a group of press and trade members, Santi Bonhomme, President of the Lago di Garda Consorzio, explained that a project to group all of the red wines under a single denomination – Valenèsi – was underway. This move may help to simplify these wines in the U.S. marketplace, but will not go far enough in demystifying them. I would suggest that Lago di Garda may be a better choice because perhaps it will be a fond reminder of vacations past for the American buyer.